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THE 

UNIVERSAL   TRAVELLER: 


DESIGNED  TO  INTBODUCB 


-^     K       f  READERS    AT    HOME 


TO  AN  ACQUAINTANCE  WITH  THB 


ARTS,  CUSTOMS,  AND  MANNERS, 


PRINCIPAL  MODERN  NATIONS  ON  THE  GLOBE. 

EMBRACING  A  VIEW  OP  THEIR 

PERSONS-CHARACTER-EMPLOYME.\T.3-AMUSEMENT3-RELIGI0N-DRES3— 
HABITATION.S-IMODES  OF  WARFARE-FOOD-ARTS- AGRICULTURE- 
MANUFACTURES-SUrERSTITlONS— GOVERNMENT- 
LITERATURE,  &c..  &c 

DERIVED  FROM  THE  RESEARCHES  OF 

RECENT    TRAVELLERS 

*■  *^'    A*DBre06YINS  "^  ^V»   ' 

A  GRE^  AJu^r  oT^F^A^I'^I'^^tIj^i've  information. 


BY  CHARLES  A.  GOODRICH. 
THIRD      EDITION. 

HARTFORD: 
CANFIELD    &    ROBINS, 

1837. 


'^ 


Entered, 

According  to  Aci  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1836,  by 

CHARLES  A.  GOODRICH, 

n  the  Clerk's  Office  of  the  District  Court  of  Connecticut 


J 


PREFACE. 

SAN  FRANCl. 


When  the  author  first  announced  his  intended  expedition,  it  was 
doubtful  whether  his  patrons  would  be  sufficiently  numerous  to  meet  the 
expenses  incident  to  the  undertaking.  That  doubt  no  longer  exists.  On 
the  contrary,  scarcely  had  he  rested  from  the  labors  of  his  first  tour, 
when  it  was  announced  that  the  subscription  list  was  filled,  and  the  com- 
pany even  waiting  to  attend  him  on  the  second.  With  the  best  endeavors 
to  serve  them,  and  to  render  the  second  tour  more  entertaining  and  ac- 
ceptable than  the  first,  he  has  made  every  preparation  for  their  pleasure 
and  accommodation,  within  his  power.  He  has  looked  over  the  whole 
course,  and  so  amended  his  plans,  as  to  avoid  some  passes,  which,  if  not 
dangerous,  were  tedious  and  unprofitable.  Not  a  few  rough  places  will 
be  found  to  be  smoother;  and  in  all  respects  even  the  fastidious  traveller 
will  find,  it  is  believed,  less  to  censure  and  condemn — perhaps,  more  to 
praise  and  admire. 

But  aside  from  figure;  as  in  the  first  edition,  so  in  the  second,  the  au- 
thor has  been  obliged  to  omit  a  notice  altogether  of  a  few  countries,  and 
to  abridge  somewhat  more  than  he  would  wish,  his  account  of  others. 
In  general,  however,  the  countries  of  which  no  notice  is  taken,  are  either 
of  minor  importance,  or  those  of  which  ample  particulars  are  to  be 
found  in  works,  which  have  been  widely  circulated  through  the  coun- 
try. "With  these  deductions,  the  author  flatters  himself  that  the  patrons 
of  the  work  will  feel  that  he  has  redeemed  his  pledge,  and  that  it  may 
still  with  some  propriety  be  styled,  "  The  Universal  Traveller" 

As  to  the  sources  from  which  the  materials  of  the  volume  have  been 
derived,  the  author  will  only  say,  that  they  are  by  far  too  numerous  to  be 
specified  in  this  place.  Credit  has  been  generally  given  in  the  body  of 
the  work  to  authors  whose  labors  have  been  used.  Through  the  cour- 
tesy of  two  of  the  literary  societies  attached  to  Yale  College,  the  author 
has  had  access,  by  means  of  their  libraries,  to  many  valuable  works 


PREFACE. 


rarely  to  be  met  with  in  this  country.  These  he  has  used  with  freedom, 
and  adopted  their  language  when  adapted  to  his  purpose  For  the  arti- 
cles on  the  United  States,  France,  and  Italy,  he  takes  pleasure  in  ac- 
knowledging his  obligations  to  a  distinguished  literary  friend — Rev. 
Royal  Robbins. 

In  conclusion,  the  author  may  be  allowed  to  say,  that  whatever  may 
be  the  excellences  or  defects  of  the  work,  it  has  cost  him  not  a  few 
hours  of  toil  in  the  preparation  of  it;  but  if  it  shall  contribute  to  the  in- 
struction and  entertainment  of  its  patrons — if  it  shall  make  them  more 
contented  with  the  goodly  land  in  which  their  lot  is  cast— if  it  shall  ex- 
cite in  their  bosoms  gratitude  to  that  God,  who  has  distinguished  them 
from  millions  in  other  countries,  in  respect  to  the  reforming  and  peace- 
inspiring  truths  of  the  gospel — and  finally,  if  it  shall  prompt  them  to 
aid  in  sending  that  gospel  to  the  millions  who  are  unacquainted  with  it, 
and  with  the  thousand  blessings  which  spring  from  it — one  object,  and 
that  object  an  important  one,  will  have  been  attained. 


CONTENTS. 


INTRODUCTION. 

Proposed  mode  of  travelling  explained ;* Advantages  to  be  expected;  Dangers  and 
sufferings  incidental  to  the  common  modes  avoided ;  Greater  amount  of  information 
to  be  obtained  ;  The  mind  enlarged  and  enriched ;  The  useful  lesson  of  contentment 
the  result. 

AMERICA. 

Sect.  I.    NORTH  AMERICA. 

1.  United  States. 

Personal  appearance  of  the  inhabitants;  Their  character ;  Spirit  of  enterprise  ;  Per- 
sonal independence  ;  Attachment  to  liberty,  civil  and  religious  ;  Intelligence  and  edu- 
cation ;  Basis  of  our  institutions;  Peculiar  form  of  education;  Refined  practical 
humanity  ;  Moral  and  religious  character  ;  Character  of  the  people  of  New  England  ; 
Of  the  Middle  States ;  Of  the  Southern  ;  Western  ;  Early  settlers  of  the  country ; 
Modes  of  dress  ;  Dwellings  in  New  England — In  the  Middle  States— Southern — West- 
ern ;  Architecture  ;  Celebrated  buildings  ;  Articles  of  diet — in  New  England— Middle 
States — Southern — Western  ;  Intoxicating  drinks  ;  Travelling ;  Steam-cars  ;  Canals  ; 
Inns;  Festivals;  Games  and  Amusements  ;  Thanksgiving;  May-day;  Election-day; 
Fourth  of  July  ;  Commencements  ;  Husking  frolics ;  First  of  January  ;  Horse-racing  ; 
Christmas;  Barbacue  ;  Cock-fighting;  Bass  hunting;  Language  spoken ;  Literature; 
Imitative  arts  ;  Mechanical  arts  ;  Manufactures ;  Extent  of  education  ;  Agriculture  ; 
Mechanical  labor ;  Mercantile  and  commercial  pursuits  ;  Government ;  Congress  ; 
Executive;  Judiciary;  Support  of  rehgion  ;  Principal  rehgious  denominations. 

2.  Indian  Tribes. 

Tribes  ;  Personal  appearance ;  Food  ;  Dress  ;  Habitations  ;  Superstitions ;  Govern- 
ment; Story  of  an  Indian  warrior;  Instruments  of  war;  Customs  ;  Funeral  rites;  In- 
dians of  the  Rocky  mountains ;  Oonalashka ;  Nootka  Sound. 

3.  Canada. 
Population;  Character;   Costumes;   American    and  French   settlers;   Travelling; 
Food ;  Employments ;  Amusements ;  French  language  ;  Religious  state  ;  Upper  Canada. 

4.  EsauiMAux. 
Localities  ;    Persons  ;    Dress  ;    Ornaments ;    Houses  ;   Articles   of  food  ;    Drinks  ; 
Amusements;  Canoes;  Character;   Sledges;  Dogs;   Religion;   Marriage  ceremony; 
Interment  of  the  dead. 

5.  Greeni-anders. 

Stature  and  appearance  ;  Character ;  Hunting  and  fisliing ;  Winter  and  summer  res- 
idences; Canoes;  Amusements;  Religious  notions ;  Marriage;  Funerals. 

6.  Iceland. 

Personal  appearance;  Character;  Customs;  Costume;  Language;  Schools;  Lite- 
rature; Houses;  Diet;  Travelling;  Seasons;  Hay-making;  Winter  employments; 
Forms  and  ceremonies  of  the  Church;  Clergy;  Mode  of  interment;  Mount  Hecla; 
Great  Geyser. 

7.  Mexico. 

Extent ;  Physical  situation  ;  Population  ;  Races  ;  Indians  ;  Costumes ;  Acapulco ; 
Food  ;  Drinks  ;  Travelling ;  Roads  ;  Amusements  ;  Education  ;  Agriculture ;  Agricul- 
tural productions  ;  Cochineal ;  Religion ;  Brief  notice  of  Guatemala. 

8.  West  Indies. 
Inhabitants;  Language;  Peculiarities  of  the  people  of  Havana;  manner  of  living; 
Fuaeral  ceremonies  ;  Education ;  Coffee  ;  Sugar  ;  Bread  fruit  tree. 

Sect.  II.    SOUTH  AMERICA. 

1.  Colombia. 
Historical  and  statistical  accoimt ;  Cumana  ;  Caraccas ;  Trades  people  ;  Festivals ; 
Amusements ;  Religion ;   Chocolate  tree  ;   Cow  tree  ;   Bogota  ;  Manners ;   Houses  ; 
Productions. 

I* 


6  CONTENTS. 

2.  Brazil. 
Aspcrt  of  ilio  country;  Classes  of  inhabiiant!) ;  Cliaracter;  Costume;  Tlahits  and 
Manners  ;  Royal  tliqurtle  ;  Food  ;  Pniiulalion  ;  Ai  Is  ;  Aniiisenienls  ;  Ox  chase  ;  Ilorflcs  ; 
Oolil  ami  cllaninnilti ;  Diamond  Washing ;  liuliaii  tubes ;  Guaycurus;  I'urics;  Uotucu- 
docs;  Ucligiun. 

3.  Peru. 
Classes  of  inhal>itants  ;  Creoles ;  Ladies  of  Pcni ;  Mestizoes ;  Cholos  ;  Spaniard.^  , 
Negroes;  Mulattots;  Peruvian  Indians;   Dress;  Iluuacs;  Agriculture;  Commerce, 
AmusemenlB. 

4    Bolivia. 
Population  ;  Mines  of  Potosi ;  Quantity  of  silver;  Process  of  separating  silver  boot 
the  ore. 

5.  BiTENOS  Ayrbs. 

Length  and  breadth  of  the  country  ;  Person.s,  disposition  and  manner  of  the  Spanish 
inhabilanlK  ;  CiTCiiinnics  ;  Urcss  ;  Aiiiusciiioiils  ;  Hullfi>;li(s  ;  Modes  of  travelling; 
Pauipas  ;  Indians;  Gauchos;  Animals  on  the  Fmiipas;  Intcnncnl  of  the  dead. 

C.  Chile. 

Population  and  extent  of  the  country  ;  Inhabitants  ;  Peasants  ;  Spaniards  ;  Valpa- 
raiso ;  Uullfielit-s;  Manners;  Chilean  dinner;  Chilean  dance;  Santiago;  Climate; 
Towns  ;  Moitc  of  travelUng ;  Passage  of  the  Great  Cordillera  ;  Araucanians. 

7.  Patagonia. 
Inhabitants ;  Dress ;  Stature  ;  Captain  Morrell's  account  of  them. 

EUROPE. 

1.  England. 

Appearance  of  the  English  ;  Character;  Generosity;  Industry  ;  Love  of  knowledge  ; 
Tippling;  Dress;  English  dinner;  Public  buildings;  Houses;  Shops;  Coii:iges ;  Di- 
versions ;  Horse-racing;  New-market;  Boxing ;  Gambling;  Travelling;  Roads;  Agri- 
culture ;  Manufactures  ;  Religion  ;  Government ;  Wales. 

2.  Scotland. 
Personal  appearance  ;  Cliaracter  ;  Drams  ;  Toddv  ;  Dross  of  the  Lowlanders;  Drcsa 
of  the  Highlanders;  Foo<l ;  Style  of  Buildings  ;  Adventure  of  a  traveller ;  Language; 
Music;  Anecdotes;  Gretna  Green. 

3.  Ireland. 

Character  of  the  Irish  ;  Poverty;  Hospitality;  Peasantry;  Superstition  ;  Irish  bulls ; 
Religious  establishments  ;  Literature;  Arts;  Manufactures;  Irish  wake. 

4.  France. 
Personal  appearance  of  the  French;  Ijinsuage  ;  Education;  Writers;  Fine  Arts; 
Pubhc  buildings;  Louvre;  Exchange;  Dress  and  taste;  Cookery;  Parisian  dinner; 
Amusements ;  Society  ;  Social  condition  of  Women  ;  Government ;  Religion. 

B.  Spain. 
Classes  of  inhabitants ;  Character ;  Nobles  and  plebeians ;  Dress  ;  Cookery  ;  Roads ; 
Language;  Amusements;  Bull-flghls;  Education;  Liberalarts. 

6.    PORTOOAL. 

Personal  appearance  ;  Character;  Cosinroe  of  the  lower  orders;  Internal  nppear- 
Bncc  of  the  houses;  Language;  Peculiarities;  Religion. 

7.  Italy. 

Interesting  a.tsociations  ;  Dress  of  the  Italinn.s  ;  Jjinguage  ;  Fine  arts  ;  Public  build- 
ings ;  Remains  of  nncii-nt  monuments  of  art  ;  National  cliaracter  ;  Morals;  Maniifao- 
lurcB  ;  Uebgion  ;  The  Pope  ;  College  of  Cardinals;  Other  clergy  ;  Remarkable  place*. 

6.  Greece. 
Modern  Orccks  ;  Chnrarter;  Dress;  Dii-i ;  Dancing;  Music;  Religion;  Rites  of  th« 
Greek  Church;  Superstitions;  Marriage  ceremony  ;  Funerals. 

9.  EmoPEAN  TrRKEV. 
Persons  of  ttie Turks  ;  Chararier  ;  Harems;  M.-mnera  and  rustoms  ;  HouKes  ;  Trav- 
elling; AmusrniinlH  ;  I.awK  ;    I'liniKhmcnis  ;    LangiinRi- ;    Polygamy;  Marriage;  Reli- 
gion; Fastii ;  Festivalij;  Pilgrims;  Funeral  rcri-monics. 

10.  Switzerland. 
Personal  appearance ;  National  cliaracter;  Dress;  Food;  Travelling;  Education. 


CONTENTS.  7 

11.  HcNGARiAN  States. 
Persons  ;  Costumes ;  Peasants  ;  Habitations  ;  Languages  ;  Diet ;  Gipsies. 

12.  Austria,  Bohemia,  &c. 

Political  divisions;  Population;  Austrian  character;  Austrian  women;  Vienjia; 
Kingdom  of  Bohemia,  &c. ;  Tyrol. 

13.  Germany. 

Political  divisions;  Hanoverians;  Saxons;  Bavarians;  German  houses;  Titles; 
Manners  and  customs;  Amusements;  Iiiquisiliveness ;  Music;  Means  of  education; 
Libraries  ;  German  students  ;  Mode  of  travelling. 

14.  Netherlands. 

Holland  ;  Belgium  ;  Appearance  of  the  Dutch  ;  Dutch  ladies  ;  Manners  EUid  customs  ; 
Character  of  the  Belgians ;  House  in  Holland  ;  Diet ;  Diversions. 

15.  Denmark. 

Personal  appearance;  Classes  of  inhabitants;  Houses;  Food;  Travelling;  Diver- 
sions ;  Government ;  Religion. 

16.  Norway. 

Persons  ;  Character  ;  Dress ;  Diet ;  Buildings ;  Manufactures  ;  Travelling ;  Amuse- 
ments ;  Religion  ;  Funeral  ceremonies  ;  Marriage  ;  Superstitious  notions  and  tradi- 
tions; Nipen;  Mountain  demon  ;  Story  of  Peter  the  Woodman;  A  wedding  party. 

17.  Sweden. 

Inhabitants;  National  character;  Costume;  Food;  Habitations;  Roads;  Travel- 
lirig  ;  Education ;  Diversions  ;  Agriculture  ;  Manufactures ;  Wedding  ceremonies. 

18.  Lapland. 

Personal  appearance;  Dress  of  the  Lapps;  Huts;  Inland  Lapps;  Maritime  Lapps ; 
Diet ;  Superstitions ;  Courtship  and  marriage  ;  Diseases  ;  Sepulchral  rites. 

19.  Finland. 

General  description ;  Costume  ;  Houses  ;  Dress  ;  Hot  baths ;  Peasantry ;  Hunting ; 
TravelUng ;  Matrimonial  connexion. 

20.  Russia. 

Variety  of  ra^es  ;  Personal  appearance  ;  Dress ;  Dress  of  the  ladies ;  Cossacks ; 
Character  of  the  Russians ;  Remarkable  for  their  imitation  ;  For  their  curiosity  ;  Man- 
ners and  customs;  Servants;  Meals;  Cookery;  Clergy;  Merchants;  Peasants.; 
Productions;  Internal  navigation;  TravelUng;  Baths;  Amusements;  Punishments; 
Weddings. 

ASIA.       ^  , 

I.  ASIATIC  TRIBES. 

1.  Circassians. 
Personal  appearance  ;  Dress  ;  Dress  of  the  females  ;  Houses ;  Burial  of  their  dead. 

2.  Georgians. 
Persons  ;  Dress ;  Pimishments  ;  Clergy,  &c. 

3.  Tartars. 
Localities  ;    Physical  and  moral  character  ;   Wealth  ;   Dress  ;   Diet ;    Dwellings ; 
Horsemanship. 

4.  Calmucks. 
Personal  appearance ;  Tents ;  Food ;  Classes  or  ranks ;  War  dress  ;  Marriages. 

5,  Kamschatka. 
Appearance  ;  Costume ;  Manner  of  living ;  Food,  &c. 

Arabia. 
Classes  of  Arabs;  Bedouins;  Physical  appearance;  Exterior  demeanor;  Hospital- 
ity; Courtesy;  Spirit  of  revenge;  Dress;  Diet;  Places  of  amusement;  Habitations 
Form  of  government;  Mode  of  travelUng  ;  Caravans. 

3.  Persia. 
Persons;   Costume;   Houses;  Food;   Habits;  Female  education;   Superstitions; 
Visiting;  Hunting;  Horse-racing;   Travelling;  Courtship  and  Weddings;  Interment 
of  the  dead. 


Situation  and  extent;  Personal  appearance;  Dress;  Houses;  Diet:  ARriculture; 
Arts  and  Sciences;    Pulilic  Koads ;   Religious   sects;  Superstitious;  Celebration  of 


S  CONTENTS. 

4.  China. 

Thytical  appearance  ;  Natural  dispositions  ;  Character  ;  Condition  of  females ; 
Dreea;  Mode  of  living  among  llie  lower  orders  ;  Among  the  wealthy  ;  Entertaininenta ; 
Gaming  laws  ;  I'uiilslunents;  Prisons;  Inns  ;  Travelling  ;  Arcliitccture  ;  Manufactures; 
PorcoUin;  Silk;  Printing;  Marriage;  Funeral  rites. 

5.  Japan. 

mal  a] 
oads ; 
marriage ;  Funeral  ccremonie-s 

6.  UcRMAN  Empire. 
Situation;    Physioenomy  ;  Costume  ;    IIou.sos  ;   Furnilurc;   Maiinseinent  of  house- 
hold affairs ;  Mairiuiunial  ceremonies  ;  Characteristics  ;  Travelling ;  Funeral  solemni- 
ties. 

7.  New  Holland. 

Situation  and  extent;  Aborigines;  Religious  opinions;  Characteristics ;  Canoes ; 
Oovernmcnt. 

8.  New  Zealand. 

Situation  and  extent ;  First  intercourse  with  Europeans  ;  Personal  apiiearanee ; 
Dress;  Food;  Cannibalism;  Habitations;  Tattooing;  Religion;  Priests;  bourcci  oiT 
wealth;  Funeral  obsecjuies ;  liattlcs;  Canoes;  War  instruments;  AnmEcmeuts. 

AFRICA. 

1.  Darbary  States. 
Moorish  Dress;  Marriages;  Mode  of  salutation ;  Hunting;  Funeral  rites. 

2.    NtTBIA. 

Situation;  Inhabitants;  Dress;  Habitations;  Dint. 

3.  Abyssinia. 

Situation;  Pooulation ;  Marriage;  Superstitions;  Funeral  ceremonies;  Peculiar 
Otisloms. 

4.  CAFTTlAniA. 

Boundaries;  Inhabitants;  Costume;  Manner  of  life  ;  Diet;  Houses;  Kraals  or  vil- 
lages ;  The  Amaxor  tribe. 

5.  SoiTTHERN  Africa. 

Situation  and  e.ttent ;  Cape  Town  ;  Dutch  boors  ;  Hottentots  ;  Dress ;  Character ; 
Tlic  Uosjesinans  ;  The  Coraiuias;  The  Nainaipias. 

C.  NiORiTiA  OR  Central  Africa. 
Situation  and  extent;   Rornou  ;  Pooulation  of  Bornou  ;   Manner  of  living  ;   Game; 
Cliief  towns ;  Districts  of  Uegliarmi,  Mandara,  and  Loggun  ;  The  Fellatahs  ;  Saccatoo ; 
Timbuctoo. 

7.  Western  Africa. 
Situation  and  extent;  Dahomey;  Ashantec ;  General  remarks  on  the  social  ccmtt- 
tioa  of  the  Africans. 


It  is  the  privilege  of  but  few,  to  visit  and  observe  distant 
countries  and  different  nations.  Although  travelling  has  great- 
ly increased  of  late  years,  and,  as  facilities  are  multiplied,  is 
likely  to  increase  still  more,  yet  it  is  chiefly  confined  to  cer- 
tain classes,  by  no  means  numerically  large.  The  majority 
are  necessarily  cut  off  from  this  species  of  amusement  and 
information.  They  have  neither  the  requisite  leisure,  nor  suf- 
ficient wealth.  Many,  also,  are  unfitted  for  travelling,  by  rea- 
son of  their  habits  and  dispositions.  New  countries,  and  new 
objects,  would  neither  please  nor  profit  them.  And  not  a  few 
who  do  travel,  are  disqualified  for  improvement,  from  the 
want  of  that  peculiar  tact — that  power  of  observation  and 
discrimination,  which  is  so  essential  to  a  just  estimate  of  men 
and  manners. 

But  for  such  a  privation,  is  there  no  indemnity  ?  Must  they, 
who  cannot  literally  visit  foreign  countries,  and  cannot  view 
with  their  own  eyes  the  varieties  of  human  character  and  cus- 
toms, always  remain  in  ignorance?  Happily,  this  is  not  the 
severe  condition  of  their  being.  It  is  not  necessary  to  forego 
the  pleasure  and  advantages  of  a  varied  and  extensive  know- 
ledge of  the  world.  They  may  enjoy  travelling,  as  well  as 
others.  They  may  enjoy  it  at  home,  and  in  every  season  of 
the  year,  even  amidst  the  frosts  and  confinement  of  winter. 
They  may  travel,  and  yet  never  quit  their  firesides  or  por- 
ticoes. 

If  it  be  necessary  to  explain  toour  readers  how  this  can  be 
done,  we  will  begin  by  supposing  that  the  long  evenings  of  our 
winters  are  arrived — the  storm  rages  abroad — the  winds  howl 
around  your  dwelling;  but  you  are  quietly  seated  by  your  com- 
fortable fire,  and  you  wish  some  amusing,  and  yet  profitable 
employment,  in  which  to  pass  away  the  hours.    We  propose 


10  lNTROD0CTIOIt. 


to  you,  tlien,  to  make  a  travelling  excursion — a  sort  of  tany- 
at-home  journey,  or  voyage  around  the  globe.  We  will  en- 
deavor, by  giving  a  condensed,  yet  sufficiently  extensive 
account  of  the  world,  in  the  manners,  customs,  rites,  laws, 
governments,  and  other  particulars  respecting  its  inhabitants, 
to  furnish  the  means  of  your  making  such  an  excursion.  We 
will  hold  up  a  picture  by  which,  in  the  comfort  and  security  of 
your  homes,  you  may  see  whatever  is  worthy  of  inspection, 
just  as  the  literal  traveller  would  see  it,  in  the  various  states 
and  kingdoms  of  which  the  globe  is  constituted. 

To  those,  however,  who  are  I'eluctant  to  attempt  such  a 
tour,  we  would  suggest  particular  considerations. 

1.  You  will  avoid  the  dangers  and  sufferings^  which  attend 
those  who  go  abroad  among  different  nations.  No  man,  who 
leaves  his  home  for  a  distant  land,  knows  what  may  befall  him 
in  his  course ;  or  rather,  every  such  a  one  knows,  that  he  ex- 
poses himself  to  numerous  perils  and  difficulties.  He  can 
scarcely  hope  to  escape  casualties  and  disasters  ;  and  it  is  a 
chance  if  his  life  is  not  the  forfeiture  of  his  curiosity.  What 
has  been  the  fate  of  travellers,  especially  the  more  adventurous 
of  them?  Witness  Ledyard,  Park,  Clapperton,  Lander,  and 
hundreds  of  others.  But  by  the  mode  of  travelling  here  pro- 
posed, you  will  run  no  such  hazards  as  attended  these  men, 
and  by  which  they  lost  their  lives.  You  will  escape  perils  by 
land  and  perils  by  sea.  You  will  be  exposed  to  no  dangers 
from  pirates  who  infest  the  seas,  or  from  robbers  or  assassins, 
who  waylay  the  passing  land-traveller.  You  may  visit  the 
most  savage  tribes,  in  perfect  safety — Indians,  Algerines,  New- 
Zealanders,  barbarians,  cannibals.  You  will  fear  neither  the 
scorching  heats  of  an  African  desert,  nor  the  rigors  of  a  Sibe- 
rian winter.  You  may  travel  thousands  of  miles,  with  scarce- 
ly the  sense  of  weariness.  You  may  penetrate  the  most  dis- 
tant countries,  and  remain  in  perfect  quiet.  You  may  enjoy, 
in  a  sense,  all  the  amusements  of  the  voyager  or  traveller, 
and  suffi?r  none  of  his  inconvimiences. 

2.  Yon  will  be  able  to  acquire  a  greater  amount  of  informa- 
tion, and  that  of  a  more  accurate  kind,  in  a  single  month^than 
by  travelling  for  years,  in  the  common  and  literal  mode.  This 
•will  be  tlie  case,  because  you  will  have  passed  through  more 
countries,  and  have  observed  more  of  men  and  manners,  than 
if  you  had  employed  the  time  in  personal  examination.    And 


INTRODUCTION.  11 


as  to  accuracy  of  information— minute  and  full  acquaintance 
with  the  objects  met  with  in  travelling,  this  may  be  expected 
from  the  method  here  proposed,  when  it  could  not  be  attained 
in  any  other  way.  Perhaps  you  are  not  fitted  to  make  such 
nice  observations  on  men  and  manners,  as  are  found  in  many 
books  of  travel.  Perhaps  you  are  not  acquainted  with  the 
different  languages  that  are  necessary  to  be  understood,  in 
order  to  the  acquisition  of  correct  knowledge.  You  may  not 
be  able  to  philosophize,  or  deduce  inferences,  or  make  com- 
parisons, as  is  desirable  in  order  to  learn  all  that  might  be 
learned  by  travelling.  For  these  and  other  reasons,  this  sort 
of  tarry-at-home  excursion  may  furnish  you  not  only  with 
more,  but  better  information,  respecting  different  countries, 
than  if  you  were  actually  to  spend  the  same  time  in  personal 
inspection  of  them. 

3.  The  mode  of  travelling  here  recommended^  will  serve  to 
enlarge  and  enrich  the  mind.  Nothing  is  better  calculated  to 
produce  this  effect,  than  just  dehneations  of  human  nature — of 
human  life,  and  manners,  and  character — of  man  in  all  the  va- 
rieties of  his  condition,  as  an  inhabitant  of  the  earth.  It  ex- 
pands our  views,  and  furnishes  the  mind  with  innumerable 
topics  of  thought  and  illustration.  Knowledge  generally  is  the 
best  kind  of  acquisition — better  than  silver  or  gold,  or  any  of 
the  means  of  sensual  enjoyment.  It  will  be  a  source  of  hap- 
piness, as  you  will  be  able  to  enjoy  yourselves  independently 
of  others.  Knowledge  cannot  be  taken  away,  as  property 
and  other  worldly  acquisitions  may  be.  It  is  our  own  prerog- 
ative, and  the  distinction  of  our  intellectual  nature,  and  can 
be  annihilated  only  with  the  mind,  in  which  it  resides.  Be- 
sides, it  will  give  you  influence  and  reputation — extend  the 
sphere  of  your  exertions,  and  increase  the  power  of  doing 
good.  Imparting  weight  to  character,  it  will  entitle  you  to 
consideration  in  all  respectable  society.  The  branch  or  kind 
of  knowledge  more  especially  recommended  here,  is  equal  in 
value  to  that  of  any  other,  religion  excepted.  Indeed,  it  may 
lead  you  to  true  religious  knowledge.  If  there  is  any  kind  of 
secular  information  which  has  a  direct  moral  use  and  tenden- 
cy, it  must  be  this.  Through  such  a  mode  of  travelling,  you 
will  become  acquainted  with  the  human  character ;  you  will 
see  it  as  modified  by  religion  or  its  opposite.  You  will  of 
course  be  able  to  judge  of  the  value  of  the  Bible  and  Christian 


12  INTRODDCTION. 


institutions,  as  you  will  perceive  their  influence  upon  the  state 
of  society.  You  will  find  their  influence  always  and  uniform- 
ly propitious.  Where  tiiey  are  not  known,  society  will  be  seen 
to  be  eminently  in  a  vicious,  unhappy,  and  degraded  state. 
You  will  be  able  to  judge  of  the  value  of  the  Bible  and  of  Chris- 
tian institutions,  especially  in  their  influence  on  woman — how 
they  raise  her  to  her  proper  rank  in  the  domestic  state — ex- 
pand her  mind  and  refine  her  character.  The  false  religions 
and  superstitions  on  the  earth,  will  be  seen  in  all  their  pollu- 
ting, degrading,  and  distressing  influence  on  the  sex.  Thus, 
the  comparison  of  the  eflTects  of  Christianity,  and  those  false 
religions,  which  knowledge  in  this  way  acquired  will  enable 
you  to  make,  cannot  but  show  you  the  genius  of  that  religion, 
and  its  infinite  superiority  to  every  other. 

4.  You  will  learn  from  our  proposed  mode  of  travelling,  the 
useful  lesson  of  contentment.  It  will  make  you  more  satisfied 
than  ever  with  your  own  country — its  state  of  society — morals, 
religion,  education,  government,  and  privileges — most  of  those 
circumstances  in  which  it  diflcrs  from  other  countries,  and 
indeed  all  the  circumstances  that  contribute  to  national  hap- 
piness. It  may  be  hoped,  too,  that  your  gratitude  to  God  will 
be  excited  in  view  of  the  distinguished  mercies  you  enjoy,  in 
common  with  your  countrymen.  It  must  be  felt  to  be  an  oc- 
casion of  the  most  sincere  gratitude,  that  he  has  placed  you  in 
so  favored  and  goodly  a  land,  rather  than  amid  the  burning 
sands  of  Africa,  or  the  frozen  wilds  of  Northern  Asia — and 
that  he  has  conferred  on  us,  as  a  nation,  those  civil  and  reli- 
gious institutions  that  are  the  glory  of  our  land. 

Now,  then,  reader,  as  you  are  decided  to  accompany  us,  we 
will  set  forth.  But  as  self-knowledge  is  the  most  important — 
and  a  knowledge  of  one's  own  country  is  to  be  preferred  to 
that  of  all  others,  we  will  first  take  a  survey  of  ourselves  ;  and 
when  we  have  done  this,  if  you  become  weary,  you  may  re- 
treat, and  we  will  endeavor  to  enlist  some  one  else  to  accom- 
pany us.  It  is  our  purpose,  however,  to  make  the  circuit  so 
interesting,  that  instead  of  leaving  us,  we  expect  you  wiU 
cling  the  closer,  the  longer  we  travel  together.  Without  fur- 
ther preface,  then,  we  will  commence  our  review  with  Amehica. 


THE   UNIVERSAL   TRAVELLER. 


V 

,^ 

^  \  > 

AMERICA. 

i 
< 

'l.^ 

\-' 

/ 

SAN 

>^^ 

SECTION  I.— NORTH  AMERICA. 

1.  UNITED   STATES. 

The  inhabitants  of  the  United  States  having  descended  or 
emigrated  from  almost  every  nation  in  Europe,  are  not  so 
amalgamated  that  they  can  well  be  brought  together  in  one 
description,  as  to  their  persons,  complexion,  or  form.  In  gen- 
eral, they  resemble,  in  personal  appearance,  the  inhabitants  of 
those  countries  whence  they  originated.  There  is,  however, 
that  change  which  a  different  climate,  and  new  modes  of  life, 
and  other  peculiar  circumstances,  must  necessarily  produce, 
according  to  the  time  in  which  the  several  classes  of  the  peo- 
ple have  been  separated  from  the  parent  stock.  They  may, 
tlierefore,  be  described  in  this  respect,  and  perhaps  in  others, 
according  to  their  national  descent,  or,  which  is  more  conve- 
nient, according  to  the  separate  great  divisions  into  which 
the  union  is  distributed.  The  English  blood  greatly  predomi- 
nates. This  is  especially  the  case  in  New-England.  The  in- 
habitants of  this  part  of  the  United  States  have  generally  fair 
complexions;  but  numbers  are  as  dark  as  Spaniards  or  Ital- 
ians, and  they  differ  from  one  another  not  a  httle  in  the  cast 
of  their  countenance.  They  are,  for  the  most  part,  robust, 
and  capable  of  enduring  great  hardship  and  fatigue.  They 
are  somewhat  taller  and  more  slender  in  form,  both  men  and 
women,  than  the  inhabitants  of  Great  Britain.  The  obesity 
and  broad  chests  and  shoulders  of  the  latter  are  sometimes 
met  with  liere ;  but  they  are  not  so  common  a  characteristic, 
as  in  the  country  of  their  early  ancestors.  Some  one  has  es- 
timated, with  what  seriousness  we  will  not  pretend  to  say,  the 
weight  of  seven  John  BuUs  as  equal  to  that  of  ten  Yankees  ! 

The  ijihabitants  of  the  Middle  and  Western  States  have  a 
similar  appearance,  so  far  as  they  partake  of  English  blood, 
and  that  generally  prevails,  though  there  is  a  far  greater  mix- 
ture of  races  than  takes  place  in  New  England.  New  Eng- 
landers  and  their  descendants  are  found  in  large  numbers  in 
these  portions  of  the  United  States.  People  of  Dutch  and 
German  descent,  however,  constitute  no  small  part  of  the 
Middle  States,  particularly  of  New  York  and  Pennsylvania. 
2 


U  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLEF?. 

rMTED    STATK3.  ^ 

These,  in  person,  resemble  tlie  nations  from  viiich  they  arc 
descended,  and  vaiy,  of  course,  from  the  New  Entrlnnd  fnrm 
and  features,  thnn2;h  not  in  any  prominent  dep;ree.  The  thicker 
frame  and  sandy  complexion  are  disc(>rniljie,  Ijut  au)alo;am,i- 
tion  is  advancinir  by  means  of  jntermarriap;e':.  There  are 
n!so  numbers  of  French,  Irisli,  Swiss,  and  Swedes,  with  tlieir 
characteristic  differences  of  personal  appearance. 

The  citizens  of  tlie  Soidhn^n  portion  of  the  country,  who  jren- 
ei-ally  are  of  English  descent,  sliow  tlie  effects  of  a  warmer 
climate,  in  the  sallow  complexion  by  which  they  are  distin- 
guished. Here,  as  in  the  otiier  parts  of  tlie  country,  descend- 
ants of  different  nations  are  found  with  the  variety  in  tlieir 
personal  apjiearance  which  is  to  be  expected  from  that  cause. 
Especially  is  this  tlie  case  with  tiie  ncijroes,  the  great  mass  of 
whom  are  slaves,  and  who  constitute  nearly  an  equ.d  portion 
of  the  population.  Their  characteristic  form,  features,  hue, 
&c.,  it  is  more  proper  to  describe,  when  we  come  to  speak  of 
the  natives  of  Africa.  The  intermixture  of  the  white  race  and 
the  nec:;ro  has  intioduced  the  mulatto,  who  partakes  in  ff)rm, 
features,  and  complexion  of  both  races,  so  as  to  make  a  medium 
condition  in  these  respects  between  whites  and  blacks,  and  is 
met  with  frequently  in  the  southern  states.  Several  Indian 
tribes  also  still  remain,  retaining  the  peculiarities  of  that  race, 
as  to  jiersonal  ajipearance  and  complexion. 

In  the  Western  Stales  of  the  union,  the  population  is  of  a  sin- 
gularly mixed  character.  Emigrants,  probably  froip  every 
country  of  Eurojie,  and  from  all  the  other  states  of  the  repub- 
lic, are  fount!  in  those  wirlc-spread  req;ions,  in  some  places  con- 
sisting of  separate  settlements,  in  others,  dwellinir  promiscu- 
ously to;rether.  Consequently,  there  is  a  still  i^reater  diversity 
of  personal  appfMranj^p  in  the  western  states  than  elsewhere  in 
this  country.  As,  however,  they  are  composed  mostly  of  the 
enterprisini^  classes  of  other  ref^ions,  they  wear  the  aspect  of 
vigor  and  activity,  and  their  manner  of  life,  in  many  instances, 
imparts  to  them  a  hardy  and  roua^h  exterior.  Tlu-y  show  often 
the  brown  visacje,  and  the  expanded  form,  which  are  acquired 
by  means  of  toil,  exposure,  and  the  exercise  of  huntinf''. 

Nearly  tlie  same  may  be  said  respecting;  the  rhararter 
of  the  people  of  the  United  States,  as  was  said  resjicctini; 
their  personal  appiMrance  as  a  whole.  It  can  scarcely  be 
allowed,  even  uj)  Xo  this  time,  that  we  have  throu<jhout  a  na- 
tional character.  Certainly  this  will  not  be  nlloMod  in  the 
sense  in  which  national  cha.racter  is  attributed  to  the  French, 
Germans,  Spaniards,  Chinese, or,  indeed,  to  most  otiier  nations. 
It  is  too  mixed  and  various  to  be  contemplated  under  one  uen- 
cral  aspect,  or  to  be  dt*sicrnated  by  any  peculiarities,  as  dis- 
tinct from  those  w  Inch  mark  large  eollec:tions  of  the  human 
race.  Tiie  circiuiistances  of  the  American  people  are  new 
and  unexampled  in  the  history  of  great  nations.  They  are 
constituted  of  portions  of  cveryEuropean  nation,  although  the 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  15 

CHARACTER — ENTERPRISK. 

descendants  of  Englishmen  are  the  most  numerous.  The  coun- 
try is  still  filling  up  with  comers  from  the  Old  World  ;  and  it 
is  not  until  the  tide  of  emigration  shall  cease,  and  our  institu- 
tions shall  have  had.  time  to  operate  in  all  parts  of  the  country, 
that  we  can  have  a  homogeneous  population,  and  an  entire 
national  character.  There  arc.  however,  a  few  £reneral  traits 
which  may  be  mentioned — traits  that  are  more  or  less  com- 
mon to  us  as  a  nation;  after  which  it  will  be  necessary  to  refer 
to  different  communities ;  or  to  the  great  natural  and  civil  di- 
visions which  constitute  the  United  States.  In  other  words, 
we  shall  state  some  sectional  peculiarities. 

A  spirit  of  enterprise  maybe  said  to  be  common  to  our  peo- 
ple, and  is"  a  characteristic  worthy  of  notice.  The  circum- 
stances of  the  nation  have  both  produced  and  developed  this 
feature  of  American  society.  The  original  settlers  of  the 
country  were,  in  many  instances,  prompted  by  a  spirit  of  ad- 
venture. They  were  a  bold  and  enterprising  race  ;  and  it  is 
not  strange  that  their  descendants  should  inlierit  a  portion  of 
the  same  spirit.  In  general,  also,  the  emigrants  from  foreign 
countries,  who  have  since  made  their  homes  on  our  shores, 
have  brought  with  them  a  similar  characteristic.  Indeed,  it  is 
common  only  for  the  more  active  and  fearless  spirits  in  any 
nation  to  be  willing  to  break  up  their  attachments  to  kindred, 
and  country,  and  home,  and  try  their  fortunes  in  a  different 
and  distant  region  of  the  globe.  Necessity  rather  than  choice 
has  doubtless  driven  many,  especially  of  late  years,  to  this  land 
of  abundance,  and  in  the  expectation  of  finding  that  abun- 
dance without  the  requisite  diligence  or  skill  to  procure  it,j 
but  this  class  is  not  as  yet  so  numerous  as  to  effect  any  essen- 
tial change  in  the  enterprising  turn  of  the  American  popula- 
tion. The  circumstances  of  a  new  country,  like  our  own, 
almost  unavoidably  give  a  prominence  to  active  and  adventu- 
rous Ufa.  The  case  is  very  different  here  from  what  it  is  in  the 
old  and  full-grown  countries  of  the  eastern  continent.  In  the 
latter,  the  institutions  of  society  are  nearly  at  a  stand,  and 
there  is  little  territorial  room  for  expansion  and  enlargement. 
Consequent!)'-,  the  spirit  of  enterprise  is  less  known  in  that 
portion  of  the  globe.  There  is  less  occasion  and  less  scope 
for  it.  Here,  however,  every  thing  is  in  a  developing  and  form- 
ing state — changes  are  continually  going  on — the  institutions 
of  society  are  not  fully  established — there  is  no  aristocracy, 
there  are  no  primogenitures  to  fix  the  conditions  of  rank  and 
of  property.  The  consequence  is,  that  character,  fortune, 
and  the  comforts  of  life,  eminently  depend  on  personal  effort 
and  enterprise.  The  difficulties  and  trials  which  often  attach 
to  a  people  situated  as  are  the  citizens  of  the  United  States, 
have  also  had  their  influence  in  producing  the  characteristic 
distinction  of  American  activity  and  enterprise.  To  say  no- 
thing in  this  place  of  their  early  terrible  conflicts,  both  with 
the  Indian  and  European  powers,  conflicts  in  which  they 
were  frequently  engaged,  and  the  severe  perils  to  which  they 


16  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

UNITED    STATES. 

were  exposed  from  a  variety  of  other  causes,  the  fact  alone 
that  thry  have  filled  a  wild  and  boundless  country  with  the 
arts  and  institutions  of  civilized  life,  shows  an  indomitable 
spirit  of  exertion  and  perseverance. 

We  justly  also  attribute  to  the  people  a  lar^o  share  o{  per- 
sonal indcpeu'lcnce  and  icsulution.  Both  natural  and  moral 
causes  have  conspired  in  producing  such  a  trait  of  character. 
Among  the  natural  causes  are  t)ur  proximity  to  the  dangers 
of  the  ocean — the  original  wiidness  of  our  domain — the  size 
and  number  of  bays,  lakes,  and  rivers,  the  navigation  of  which 
is  often  an  eflort,  or  was  such  in  former  days — the  extent  and 
rugged  features  of  our  soil,  and  many  mountainous  tracts 
which  are  the  native  seats  of  independence — the  purity  and 
brightness  of  our  skies — and  tiie  invigorating  character  of  our 
climate.  Among  the  moral  causes  producing  traits  of  person- 
al independence  and  resolution,  may  be  mentioned  the  objects 
sought  in  the  early  settlement  of  this  country — th<'  liardships 
to  which  the  settlers  were  subjected — their  frequent  contests 
with  the  natives — the  revolutionary  war,  and  the  consequent 
attention  which  was  paid  to  arms  and  military  topics  among 
the  people — thepi'edominanceofthe  agricultural  interest,  which 
is  intimately  connected  with  competence  and  independence — 
the  facility  of  finding  employment  and  of  acquiring  property — 
and  the  various  institutions,  civil  and  religious,  by  which  the 
nation  is  distinguished.  These  causes,  especially  the  last 
named,  have  combined  to  produce  a  noble  elevation  of  the 
public  mind. 

The  people  of  the  United  States  are  distinguished  for  their 
enlierhtcned  and  cordial  attaclimrnt  ta  lihertij  hot/i  n'ril  and  re- 
ligiou.t.  That  attachment  in  respect  to  civil  liberty  has  been 
manifested  in  various  forms,  and  at  great  expense.  It  is  to  be 
seen  in  all  their  struggles  with  despotic  jiower.  and  in  the  blood 
and  treasuics  whicli  th(\v  jioured  (lut  to  obt.iin  their  emanci- 
pation from  a  fortMgn  yoke.  We  learn  it  in  their  con-stitutiong 
of  government,  both  tliat  of  thi;  union,  and  those  of  tiie  indi- 
vidual states.  It  is  exhibited  in  the  settled  opinions  of  the 
peo|)le.  as  expressed  in  conversation  and  writing,  in  their  coun- 
cils and  in  tlieir  courts  of  justice.  It  may  be  remarked  re- 
specting the  American  constitutions  merely,  that  they  are  su- 
preme, written  laws,  sanctir)ning  and  adopting,  however,  the 
law  of  nations,  and  the  common  law  of  the  orijiinal  confed- 
erated British  em|>ire.  They  place  the  legislative,  executive, 
and  judicial  powers  in  a  state  of  separation  and  mutual  inde- 
pendence in  a  more  considerable  degree  than  has  been  done 
in  any  other  country.  The  princi|)Ies  of  civil  liberty,  so  well 
defined,  have  been  sacredly  clierished  througii  the  whole  period 
of  our  history.  The  same  has  been  the  case,  even  perhaps 
more  eminently,  in  respect  to  reliiriona  liberty.  Its  principles, 
ingr^nerau  have  been  perfi'ctly  understood,  and  most  sacredly 
piarded.  •'  Respect  for  the  rights  of  conscience  is  in  no  coun- 
txy  so  general,  so  conspicuous,  or  so  well  secured  by  civil  in- 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  17 

PEOPLE  INTELLIGENT  AND  EDUCATED. 

stitutions,  and  by  the  religious  discipline,  practice,  and  tenets 
of  the  various  churches.  We  see  here  the  Congregational  and 
the  Presbyterian  Calvinists  worshipping  the  Deity  in  each  oth- 
er's houses.  So  of  the  German  Lutlieran,  and  German  Reform- 
ed Calvinists.  So  of  the  English,  and  Swedish,  and  German 
Lutheran  congregations.  Some  religious  houses  are  used  by 
all.  Marriages  are  performed  by  the  ministers  and  magis- 
trates of  each  of  the  various  churches  for  the  members  of  oth- 
ers. The  members  of  these  societies  have  officiated  at  the 
interment  ofdeceased  persons  of  each  other's  churches.  Fam- 
ilies of  all  religious  societies  intermarr3^  Such  are  common 
occurrences,  and  are  the  religious  and  charitable  habits  of  the 
community.  The  constitutioii  of  the  United  States  pr-ohibits, 
in  express  and  peremptory  terms,  the  requiring  of  a  religious 
test,  in  any  case,  by  the  statutes  of  the  national  legislature. 
The  constitutions  of  a  very  large  proportion  of  the  several 
states  contain  similar  or  equivalent  securities  for  the  rights  of 
conscience.  There  is  here  no  war  among  the  different  church- 
es or  societies.  None  has  the  sword  of  state  to  raise  against 
a  sister  church.  The  peaceful  churches  are  therefore  as 
free  and  as  strong  as  the  churches  which  adm.it  defensive 
.resistance."  Attachment  of  the  most  enlightened  and  ardent 
kind  to  civil  and  religious  liberty  has  been  shown  in  these 
various  ways,  on  the  part  of  the  American  people.  It  is  still 
manifested  among  them  in  all  its  pristine  vigor. 

They  have,  moreover,  the  characteristic  distinction  of  being 
;an  intelligent  ami  educated  people.  The  intellectual  character 
of  our  native  citizens,  compares  favorably  v/ith  that  of  the  na- 
tion fi'om  v.'hich  v»-e  sprung,  and  consequently  with  that  of  other 
nations.  It  has,  indeed,  the  same  essential  traits.  The  strong 
English  good  sense  is  predominant.  The  capacity  for  me- 
chanical inventions  and  improvements  is,  perhaps,  still  great- 
er. For  these  efforts  of  genius,  there  is  a  wide  field  in  this 
country,  and  the  spirit  of  enterprise  is  highly  favorable  to  their 
development.  The  rewards  of  intelligence  and  ingenuity  are 
Avell  calculated  to  stimulate  the  gifted  minds  of  our  country- 
men to  exertion.  They  who  are  fitted  by  education  and 
knowledge  for  situations  where  these  endowments  are  wanted, 
and  they  are  wanted  for  every  station,  can  find  full  andprofit- 
•  able  employment.  It  is  not  here,  as  in  the  confined,  over- 
grown countries  of  Europe  ;  and.  doubtless,  will  not  soon  be, 
considering  the  extent  of  our  domain,  that  almost  every  branch 
of  business,  intellectual  or  mechanical,  is  in  a  state  of  surfeit. 
Here  the  field  for  enterprise,  directed  by  inteUigence,  is  al- 
most unlimited. 

Besides,  it  is  felt  that  intelligence  and  education  are  the  basis 
of  our  institutions — the  principal  pillar  of  the  republic  and  the 
Church.  It  is  believed  that  we  should  fall  a  prey  to  incurable 
evils,  unless  the  minds  of  our  citizens  were  enlightened  by  a 
sound  and  virtuous  education.  Extraordinary  provision, 
therefore,  has  been  made  for  the  universal  instructiroirof  the 
2* 


18  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

CNITED  STATES. 

people,  by  means  of  common  schools,  in  the  rudiments  of 
knowledge,  while  great  attention  has  been  paid  to  the  training 
of  many  in  the  higher  branches  of  learning.  The  general  in- 
stitution of  common  schools  in  the  manniM-  in  wliich  the  ob- 
ject is  effected,  is,  perhaps,  a  peculiarity  of  the  American  na- 
tion. These,  in  most  of  the  states,  extend  the  advantages  of 
education  and  intelligence  throughout  the  whole  mass  of  tiie 
population. 

The  peculiar  form,  which  education  here  takes,  has  been  the 
cause  of  misrepresentation  or  misunderstanding,  on  the  part 
of  foreigners,  as  to  the  true  state  of  things.  Sometimes  we 
have  been  reproached,  as  not  being  a  literary  people — as  hav- 
ing no  liti^rature.  and  that  in  the  face  of  the  immense  provis- 
ion which  we  have  made  for  g'enerwl  and  thorough  education. 
But  the  thing  is  seldom  understood  abroad.  It  is  the  peculiar- 
ity respecting  it,  which  is  the  cause  of  its  being  misunderstood  ; 
that  is  to  say,  where  the  cause  is  not  prejudice.  The  peculiarr 
ity  is,  that  the  public,  the  great  body  of  the  people,  are  enlight- 
ened. They  have  acquiivd  more  or  less  stores  of  information. 
It  isthe  vast  proportional  numlier  here  that  possess  knowledge, 
■which  renders  it  so  difficult  for  foreigners  in  mruiy  cases  to 
judge  of  the  learning  of  the  nation.  Their  opinion  is  formed 
by  what  Ihej'^  see  among  themselves,  where  knowledn^e  is  pos- 
sessed by  the  few,  and  where,  of  course,  it  appears  through  the 
contrast  considerable.  Here,  it  is  possessed  by  all,  or  nearly 
all,  and  therefore  it  is  undistinguislied.  This  is  our  want  of 
learning — of  literature  !  This  is  our  intellectual  inferiority  ! 
Enlightened  and  candid  persons,  wiio  have  visited  us  from 
abroad,  have  found  how  the  fact  is,  and  in  sf)me  instances 
liave  made  it  known  to  their  countrymen.  This  lias  been  done 
of  late,  in  a  very  satisfactory  manner,  by  Dr.  Reid,  who,  in 
connexion  witii  Dr.  Mattheson,  vi.sitrd  the  American  churches 
in  18'Jt,  being  the  Deputation  from  the  (.'oi)gr<'gational  Union 
of  England  and  Wales.  After  a  detailed  account  of  the  subr 
ject  of^  education  in  this  country,  as  it  was  presented  to  his 
view,  in  our  colh'giate,  theological,  and  comnuui  schools,  in 
the  academy,  and  fL-male  boarding-schools,  the  writer  forci- 
bly remarks: 

"And  we  are  told,  in  the  face  of  all  this  evidence,  with  petu- 
lance and  pride,  that  the.Americans  have  no  literature,  and  are 
not  a  literary  people.  Not  literary  !  and  yet  they  have  done 
more  for  letters  tiian  any  people  ever  did  in  similar  circum- 
stances. Not  literaiy  I  and  yet  they  have  made  more  exten- 
sive grants  in  favor  of  universal  education  than  any  other 
country.  i\ot  literary!  and  yet  not  only  the  common  school, 
butthe  academy  and  the  college,  are  travelling  over  tii(;  breadlli 
of  the  land  ;  and  are  sometimes  located  in  the  desert,  in  an- 
ticipation of  a  race  that  shall  be  born.  Not  lit«'rary  !  and  yet 
in  the  more  s(;ttled  states,  a  fourth  i)art  of  the  peopU^  are  at 
school,  and  in  the  Stat<^  of  New-York  alone,  apart  from  all 
private  seminaries,  there  are  more  than  KMJOO  schools,  sus- 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  19 

LITERATtlR-E, 

tained  at  a  yearly  expense  of  more  than  1,300,000  dollars.  Not 
literary  !  and  yet  there  are  in  this  new  country  fifteen  univer- 
sities ;  forti/si.r  colleges  ;  twent-y-cme  medical  schools;  and 
twenty-one  theological.  Not  literary  !  and  yet  they  circulate 
seven  Ivnndred  and  fifty  millions  of  nexcspapers  a  year, — this  is 
twenty  fipe  to  our  one  ;  and  all  our  best  books  commonly  run 
througii  more  and  larger  editions  than  they  do  at  home.  They 
have  no  literature  indeed  !  The  fact  is  they  have  all  the  litera- 
ture tliat  is  possible  to  their  age  and  circumstances  ;  and  as 
these  advance,  they,  will  assuredly  advance  in  the  more  ab- 
struse and  abstract  sciences,  till  it  shall  be  a  bold  thing  for  any 
to  .call  themselves  their  peers.  Their  fidelity  for  the  past  is 
their  security  for  the  future.  Meantime,  are  not  Newton  and 
Locke,  Bacon  and  Shakspeare,  as  mtrch  theirs,  as  they  are 
©urs  ?  Would  it  be  wisdom  on  their  part  to  repudiate  them, 
even  if  they  had  not  an  equal  claim  to  them  ?  Would  it  be 
wisdom  in  us  to  reproach  them  with  tastes  which  do  thsm 
honor,  and  to  endeavor  to  separate  them  from  community  in 
our  common  republic  of  letters,  which  more  than  any  thing 
may  make  two  great  nations  that  are  one  in  affinity,  one  in 
fact?  For  my  own  part,  I  know  of  nothvng  more  truly  sub- 
lime than  to  see  this  people,  in  the  very  infancy  of  their  na- 
tional existence,  put  forth  such  Herculean  energy  for  the  diffu- 
sion of  universal  knowledge  and  universal  virtue  !" 

The  American  people  are  distinguished  by  a  refined  practi- 
cal humanity.  This  characteristic  is  expressed  in  many  of 
eur  laws  and  customs,  especially  where  these  differ  from  those 
of  most  other  nations.  The  law  of  priwogenitnre  is  unknown 
here.  In  Engla^nd,  theoldest  son  engrosses  all  the  real  proper- 
ty. Sisters  older  than  he,  and  brothers  and  sisters  younger, 
are  unnaturally  deprived  of  every  building,  and  of>every  por- 
tion of  the  farher^s  land,  and  of  every  perpetual  ground  rent. 
Thus  families  bi-ed  with  equal  indulgence,- >and  even  the  tender 
gex,  are  sacrificed  to  the  pride  and  inhumanity  of  what  is  call- 
ed primogeniture.  The  States  of  Connecticut  and  Penns)^- 
vania,  and  probably  some  others,  did  away  the  English 
common  law,  before  the  revolution.  Since  that  event,  the  law 
©f  descents  has  been  altered  in  favour  of  natural  affection^ 
and  of  the  tender  love  of  female  children,  in  all  the  States, 
The  situation  of  the  widow  ha-s  also  been  ameliorated  in  this 
country,  by  means  of  law.  Nat  'Otily  the  feudal  system,  but 
every  minute  fragment  of  that  scheme,  which  c-onsidered  wo- 
men as  naughts  in  the  creation,  is  abrogated  in  America. 

We  have  no  custom  of  impressment,  as  they  have  in  England. 
The  humanity  of  this  country  revolts  against  it.  In  England, 
it  is  often  used  to  force  landsinen  awayfrom  their -connexions 
to  encounter  a  new  element.  Passengers  on  the  way  to  their 
properties  or  families  are  exposed  to  this  distressing  opei-ation-. 
The  young  seaman  who  has  tried  the  stormy  ocean,  to  obtain 
bread  for  a  widowed  mother  and  orphan  family,  is  cruelly  torn 
from  them  at  the  moment  of  his  return  j  and  the  married  sailor, 


20  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

UNITED    STATES. 

on  whom  alone  an  anxious  wife  and  rising  family  depend  for 
education  and  subsistence,  is  only  allowed,  aftea-  a  long  voyage, 
to  view  at  a  distance  their  mournful  abode.  In  the  United 
States,  such  scenes  are  never  witnessed. 

Tlie  peiKil  code  of  this  country  is  remnrkably  mild,  thus 
showinji  also  the  enlightened  humanity  of  the  nation.  As  the 
rights  of  conscience  iwe  mai-ntained  in  all  our  constitutions  of 
government,  and  there  are  no  ebclesiastica^  tests,  all  tliat  class 
of  agonizing  punishments,  fines,  inijirisonmenLs,  privations, 
exile,  and  torture,  are  unknown,  whicii  have  been  admitted  in 
countries,  where  a  religious  tyranny  has  been  established.  The 
dreadful  severities,  twi,  to  which  the  defence  of  the  state  has 
iriven  rise,  have  no  existence  in  this  country.  We  read  not  of 
the  rack,  tlie  wheel,  fire  and  fagot,  decapitation,  embowelling, 
dec.  among  American  punislmients  of  treason.  We  read  not 
of  an  entail  of  forfeiture  upon  the  unofT'ending  family,  and  (he 
malignant  corruption  of  the  blood.  The  power  of  doiug  tho 
latter  is  expressly  forbidden  to  Congre.ss,  and  tJiat  Ixwly  has 
the  right  to  reject  the  punishment  of  the  least  painAil  kind  of 
death,  for  the  most  high  handed  treason.  How  different  this 
from  the  codes  of  most  other  nations.  And  then  the  niinihrr 
of  crimes  punishable  by  death  in  most  nations — even  in  Eng- 
kxTHl,  whence  our  principles  of  jurisprudence  are  derived,  is 
enormous,  considering  the  value  of  iuiman  life,  and  the  neces- 
sity of  guarding  men  against  wickedness,  by  not  confounding 
the  different  degrees  of  moral  tuipitude.  In  this  country,  oii- 
ly  murder  of  the  ])ighest  degr-ce,  atid  two  or  three  other  crimes, 
are  inmishable  with  death. 

In  respect  to  theii-  moral  and  it-h's^idus  character,  the  p.eopk> 
of  the  United  Slates  ])resent  an  interesting  example  to  tlie  re- 
spect of  mankind,  as  the  effect  of  their  |)eculiar  institutions. 
As  to  political  morality,  we  consider  l!ie  law  of  nations  as  the 
public  law  of  morals.  Our  judiciary  department  is  bound  to 
adjudicate  by  tliat  law.  Aggrieved  and  injiucd  in  our  pei  sons 
and  pro])erty  by  violations  of  .this  law  beyond  example,  wc 
have  never  yet  raised  our  voice  for  its  abrogation.  As  soon 
should  we  liiink  of  rep(>aling  the  act';  of  honor,  of  private  mo- 
rality, or  of  rt-ligiou  itself  They  compose,  in  truth,  «^>Jie  gieat, 
and  gooil,  and  binding  law,  witii  a  variety  of  f-'olenni  sanctions. 
They  are,  indeed,  but  differt;nt  names  fur  the  same  inestimabie 
thing.  For  there  can  be  no  honor,  or  private  niorality,  or  |)0- 
litical  justice,  which  is  not  founded  oji  religion.  Yet,  we  m.iy 
notice  the  fact,  tlial  religion  is  not  supported  by  public  enacir 
inents  of  law  in  tl*e  United  States.  All  relii^ious  are  erjiuil/ij 
iftlrratrd  vndcr  dvr  porrrvmcnt.  The  government  does  not 
undertake  to  decide  what  (i)rm  of  worship  is  best,  and  leaves 
every  individual  to  follow  the  dictates  of  his  conscience  and 
sense  of  duty,  on  this  subject.  Of  course,  it  has  no  state  en- 
dowment, but  all  is  left  to  the  voluntary  efforts  of  the  jjcople, 
in  sustaining  religious  institutions.  This  peculiarity  of  our 
country  has  attracted  much  notice  abroad,  and  deserves  an 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  21 


INHABITANTS  OF  NEW  ENGLAND. 


extended  comment,  but  it  can  only  be  mentioned  here  that  it 
is  a  great  felicity.  The  evils  of  an  opposite  state  of  things  are 
incalculable.  The  misery  of  an  invaded  conscience  is  incalcu- 
lable. And  almost  every  other  nation  has  inflicted  it  on  its 
subjects.  America  has  learned  .wisdom  by  the  past  errors  of 
the  world,  in  this  particular.  Happy  results,  in  respect  to  mo- 
rals, order  and  piety,  have  followed  the  coarse  which  she  has 
adopted.  The  rehgious  corruptions  of  other  countries  have 
been  avoided.  Morality  flourishes.  Religion  flourishes.  Or- 
der is  observed.  The  institutions  of  Christianity  are  honored 
and  attended  upon.  The  preaching  of  the  Gosiiel,  in  the  main, 
is  well  supported.  The  voluntaiy  principle,  in  oj)position  to 
an  Establishment,  is  found  to  be  both  safe  and  efficient.  God 
has  blessed  our  land  with  multiplied  and  extended  reforma- 
tions. Benevolent  operations  are  sustained,  and  in  mostinstan- 
ces  beyond  expectation.  This  is  especially  the  fact  in  regard  to 
the  temperance  reform,  which  itself  has  modified  and  im- 
proved the  character  of  the  people,  in  no  inconsiderable  de- 
gree. 

Such  is  the  character  of  the  people  of  the  United  States,  so 
far  as  they  can  be  grouped  together  for  a  description.  These 
views  would  be,  in  a  measure,  varied  and  extended,  by  con- 
templating their  traits,  in  the  different  large  divisions  of  the 
coimtiy. 

The  character  of  the  inhabitants  of  Neio  England  is  not  a 
little  marked.  Their  intelligence  is  unquestionable.  No  peo- 
ple, as  a  body,  have  enjoyed  so  many  means  of  mental  culture 
and  improvement,  or  have  made  so  good  a  use  of  them.  In 
no  country  is  more  money  expended  for  the  instruction  of  the 
entire  population,  or  to  greater  effect.  No  country  is  so  well 
filled  up  with  schools,  academies,  and  colleges,  with  so  many 
persons,  who  have  availed  themselves  of  the  privileges  thus 
afforded.  All,  with  scarcely  any  exceptions,  are  taught  to 
read  and  write  ;  and  the  accomplishment  of  a  knowledge  of 
arithmetic,  grammar,  geography,  history,  and  politics,  is  fre- 
quently found  in  the  common  walks  of  life;  Their  inquisitive 
turn  has  been  frequently  noticed  by  others  ;  but  it  is  not  gen- 
erally to  be  understood  in  a  light  or  frivolous  sense.  They 
are  inquisitive  for  knowledge,  but  tiiey  seldom  indulge  the 
passion,  in  a  manner  which  justifies  the  complaints  that  have 
been  made  concerning  it.  They  repay  the  tax  which  they 
impose  on  others,  by  an  equal  amount  of  conmiunications. 
They  are  remarkable  for  shrewdness  and  calculation,  but  this 
spirit  is  seldom  alloyed  by  the  arts  of  deception.  Although 
properly  speaking  they  are  not  ardent  or  sanguine  in  tempera- 
ment, they  are  resolute  and  persevering. 

"In  energy  and  activity  of  mind,"  says  Dr.  Dwight,  "  we  are 
behind  no  people.  There  is  nothing  which  promises  a  benefit 
at  all  adequate  to  the  expense  of  the  effort,  which  a  New  Engr 
lander  will  not  cheerfully  undertake.  With  this  active  spirit, 
they  unite  a  general  disposition  to  a  quiet,  orderly,  and  oblig'~ 


22  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

ONITED    STATES. 

ing  deportment,  to  treat  strangers  and  each  otlier  with  civility, 
to  submit  readily  to  lawful  authority,  and  to  obey  even  the  re- 
commendations of  their  rulers.  They  are  also  social ;  attach- 
ed to  conversation  ;  accustomed  from  early  life  to  take  an  in- 
terest in  the  concerns  of  otiii'is  ;  and  habitually  to  feel  from 
childhood  that  they  have,  and  ouyht  to  have,  a  real  interest  in 
these  concerns." 

The  character  of  our  inlpvcourse  with  one  another  deserves 
notice.  "  We  are  said  to  be  grave.  Gravity  is  merely  a  com- 
parative term.  It  is.  therefore,  impossible  to  know  precisely 
what  is  meant  by  it,  unless  we  know  also  the  standard  of  com- 
parison referred  to  by  him  who  uses  it.  That  which  is  grave 
to  the  eye  of  a  Frenchman,  would  be  levit}'-  in  the;  view  of  a 
S|)aniard.  The  Aew  England  people  api>ear  to  discern,  with 
as  much  readiness,  clearness,  and  certainty,  as  any  people, 
perhaps,  in  the  world,  what  is  commonly  or  indeed  justly  in- 
tended by  propriety,  and  as  regularly  to  estimate  things  ac- 
cording to  their  value.  The  trutii  un(p!estionably  is,  our  social 
meetings  are  probably  as  cheerful,  sprightly,  and  replenished 
as  often  with  sallies  of  wit  and  good  liumoi',  as  those  of  any 
other  people."  On  grave  subjects  we  are  grave  ;  and  on  such 
subjects  we  are  more  accustomed  to  dwell  with  pleasure,  than 
men  less  disposed  to  admit  the  doctrines  and  duties  of  divine 
revelation.  It  must  be  acknowledged  that  we  think,  converse, 
and  write  much  less  concerning  theatres  and  actors  tlian  the 
inhabitants  of  London  ;  as  they  do  less  than  tlio  iidiabitants  of 
Paris.  Anmsements  are  not  here  the  principal  concern  of 
iifc ;  nor  among  amusements  do  we  consider  plays  as  pos- 
sessing the  best  character,  or  the  happiest  influence,  on  the  in- 
terests of  men." 

The  vioraUhj  and  jiidij  of  the  people  of  New  England  have 
been  visible  throuifhout  their  history.  Vice  and  irreligion  in- 
deed exist — the  eflects  of  the  common  depravity  of  human  na- 
ture ar<'  certainly  visible  to  a  degn-e  to  be  lamented  ;  but  in 
the  comparison  with  other  comnuuiities,  we  have  much  occa- 
sion to  acknowledge  with  gratitude,  the  efficacy  of  the  Chris- 
tian principles,  which  are  so  universally  inculcated  among  the 
people.  It  is  in  a  degree  the  case,  as  one  remarked,  who  had 
found  his  home  in  a  foreign  country,  that  ''a  p(;rson  nuist 
never  leavr-  New  England,  who  would  preserve  his  morals;" 
that  is,  he  must  never  leave  it  for  a  foreign  country.  The  de- 
scendants of  the  puritans  here  retain  much  of  the  strictness  of 
their  fathers.  They  are  known  by  their  general  sobriety  and 
decorimi — by  their  veneration  for  sacred  things — by  their  re- 
gard for  the  Sabbath — by  their  estimation  tiftlie  ministry — by 
their  devout  attendance  on  the  public  worship  of  God — and  by 
tiieir  relitrious  care  and  education  of  their  children.  We  have 
yet  in  our  a<,'ed  people  many  veneraliUr  remains  of  the  sedate 
spirit  of  older  times. 

In  respect  to  the  character  of  the  imnicji  of  Nev  Enc^Iand, 
it  has  been  remarked,  that  "  their  minds,  often  possessing  a 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  23 

CHARACTER  OF  THE  MIDDLE  STATES. 

line  share  of  intelligence,  are  remarkably  distinguished  by 
amiable  dispositions.  A  gentle  and  atFectionate  temper,  orna- 
mented with  sprightliness  and  gilded  with  serenity,  may  be 
fairly  considered  as  being  extensively  their  proper  character. 
Their  manners  are  in  entire  symmetry  with  their  minds  and 
faces.  A  universal  sweetness  and  gentleness,  blended  with 
sprightly  energy,  is  their  most  predominant  characteristic. 
There  is  nothing  languid  in  their  deportment,  and  rarely  any 
thing  affected.  They  are  affable,  obliging,  and  cheerful ;  while 
they  are  at  the  same  time  grave,  discreet,  and  very  rarely  be- 
trayed into  any  impropriety.  Very  many  of  them  are  distin- 
guished for  moral  excellence,  are  unaffectedly  pious,  humble, 
benevolent,  patient,  and  self-denying.  In  perfect  accordance 
with  this  representation,  the  women  of  New  England  perform, 
in  an  exemplary  manner,  the  various  duties  of  life.  They  are 
almost  universally  industrious,  economical,  attentive  to  their 
families,  and  diligent  in  tiie  education  and  government  of  their 
children.  They  are,  to  a  great  extent,  excellent  wives,  mothers, 
and  daughters.  Few  countries,  it  is  believed,  present,  in  pro- 
poj'tion  to  the  number  of  their  inhabitants,  so  many  instances 
of  domestic  good  order,  peace,  and  happiness." 

There  is  not  much  that  is  peculiar  in  the  character  of  the 
inhabitants  of  the  Middle  States.  So  far  as  New  England  has 
supplied  them  with  their  population,  which  is  somewhat  exten- 
sively the  case,  especially  in  the  State  of  New  York,  the  traits 
of  the  Yankee  appear.  Accordingly,  the  spirit  of  the  people 
of  New  York  is,  like  that  of  NewEnglnnders,  active  and  wake- 
ful— alive  to  the  important  interests  of  life,  trade,  commerce, 
agriculture,  mechanic  arts,  education,  morals,  and  religion. 
The  temper  of  the  early  settlers  of  the  State,  the  Dutch,  is"  still 
observable  in  numbers  of  its  present  inhabitants,  their  descend- 
ants, as  exhibited  in  the  passion  for  gain,  in  economy,  diligence, 
neatness,  and  a  plodding  industry.  The  city  of  New  York, 
the  great  commercial  emporium  of  the  State  and  of  the  Union, 
has  the  character  of  all  commercial  cities.  It  is  distinguished 
lor  a  lofty  spirit  of  enterprise.  Commerce  and  trade  assimilate 
one  person  to  another.  This  city,  however,  has  not  escaped 
the  moral  evils,  that  seem  to  be  inseparable  from  the  crowded 
marts  of  business.  They  are  evils  to  which  men  submit  for 
the  sake  of  advantages,  which  they  derive  from  being  together 
in  large  communities.  In  Pennsylvania,  the  Friends  exert  a 
degree  of  influence  on  society,  and  especially  in  Philadelphia, 
and  some  other  towns,  as  also  do  the  Germans  in  the  country. 
A  much  larger  proportion  of  those  in  the  country  are  unable 
to  read  and  write,  than  is  fjund  in  the  New  England  States. 
Philadelphia,  the  metropolis  of  the  State,  and  Baltimore,  the^ 
cnief  city  in  Maryland,  have  enjoyed  a  comparative  immunity 
from  the  evils  which  infest  large  cities — unless  it  may  be  of 
late,  in  the  spirit  of  riot  and  insubordination,  which  has  sprung 
up,  to  some  extent,  in  the  land  at  large.  The  manner  of  life 
in  these  cities  is  more  domestic  and  quiet  than  in  New  Yorkj 


24  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 


UNITDD  STATES. 


and  in  Philadelphia  in  particular,  the  arts  and  sciences  are 
successfully  cultivated.  In  the  larger  cities  of  the  Middle 
States,  the  number  is  very  considerable  of  those  who  live  at 
public  hotels  and  boarding-houses.  These  are  establishments, 
whose  regulations  admit  of  spendingoniy  a  short  time  at  meals 
— a  circumstance  which  comports  with  the  convenienci^  and 
wishes  of  persons  who  are  engaged  in  active  pursuits.  Their 
inmates  are  called  tog(>ther  at  the  sound  of  the  bell,  and  after 
a  repast  of  a  few  minutes  r(>tire  to  their  several  occujiations. 
An  Englishman  lately  visiting  this  country,  found  the  practice 
so  different  from  that  of  his  own  country,  remarks  upon  it  as 
follows.  "  The  American  inn,  while  it  provides  bountifully 
for  periodical  hunger,  has  no  compassion  for  a  (lisordcrly  ap- 
petite. There  is  one  liour,  one  table,  one  meal,  one  summons  ; 
and  if  you  are  ready,  you  may  Hire  very  well ;  if  you  miss  the 
opportlmity.  you  may  digest  the  consequences  as  you  can. 
It  was  interesting  to  see  how  the  American  witli  his  love  of 
freedom,  submitted  to  these  restraints,  while  John  Bull  insists 
on  naming  his  own  dinner,  at  his  own  table,  at  his  own  time, 
and  in  his  own  room.  He  has  certainly  more  independence 
in  his  hrihils,  if  not  in  his  ojjiuioii.f,  than  his  transatlantic 
brethren." 

The  character  of  the  peojjle  in  the  Southern  States  is.  in  ma- 
ny respects,  like  that  which  runs  through  the  Union  :  in  other 
respects  itis modified  by  various  causes.  Theprincipal  cause, 
by  which  character  is  modi  fieri  in  the  South,  is  slavery.  That 
it  is  unpropitious  in  its  inlhience,  both  on  the  master  and  slave, 
must  be  acknowledged  on  ail  hands.  Were  the  system  of  do- 
mestic servitude  in  the  Southr-rn  States  a  matter  of  choice  on 
their  part,  and  not  of  inheritance,  little  excuse  or  justification 
could  be  offered,  for  suffering  so  evil  an  influence  to  operate  on 
the  owners  of  slaves,  and  on  the  slaves  themselves.  As  it  is, 
the  system  may  j)erhaps,  in  time,  be  thrown  off— though  in  the 
jjresent  condition  of  the  slave,  and  without  a  particular  train- 
ing for  the  enjoyment  of  freedom,  it  would  perhaps  be  neither 
r\i}\\.  nor  prudent,  to  commit  him  to  his  own  pupilage  and  care. 

'I'hc  SiHithern  people  nrv  fond  of  sorirfi/.  Though  they  live 
much  less  compactly  than  fteople  at  the  North,  they  proi)ahly 
visit  each  other  far  more  than  the  latter  do.  Their  acquaint- 
ances are  extensive,  and  the  claims  of  relationship  or  aflinity 
are  allowed  to  tlie^rreatest  degree.  Thisr  hospitality  is  every 
where  celebrated,  and  the  more  freely  their  guest  partakes  of 
their  bounties,.the  more  he  is  welcome. 

•'  The  people  of  the  South  have  more  haughtiness,  more 
^courtesy,  and  a  higher  estimation  of  jiersonal  dignity,  than 
those  of  the  North.  Pride  is  the  natural  consequence  of  supe- 
riority of  station,  though  it  is  generally  incomjiatible  witii  mean- 
ness. A  |)Ianter  would  be  more  apt  to  do  what  he  would  be 
sorry  for,  than  what  he  would  be  ashamed  of  A  sjight  wound 
of  pride  is  more  strictly  avenged,  tlian  a  greater  injury  to  prop- 
erty; and  a  lack  of  courtesy  is.  perhaps,  a.s  much  reprobated, 


UNIVERSAL  TUAVELLER.  25 


WESTERN    STATES. 


as  a  breach  of  morals.  Duelling  is  a  natural  growth  of  such  a 
state,  and  though  it  is  not  frequent,  it  is  but  too  well  established 
by  custom." 

In  respect  to  character,  the  inhabitants  of  the  Western  States 
have  a  few  peculiarities.  In  its  general  features,  it  resembles 
the  traits  which  are  found  in  New  England  and  the  Southern 
States,  whence  much  of  their  population  has  been  derived.  In 
the  northern  portion,  including  particularly  Ohio,  the  New 
England  character  predominates.  In  the  southern  portion, 
the  southern  character,  more  especially  that  of  Virginia,  pre- 
vails. Kentucky,  the  leading  state  in  that  section  of  the  great 
Western  Valley,  was  settled  principally  from  Virginia ;  w^hile 
Ohio,  the  leading  state  in  the  northern  section,  received  its 
early  population  from  New  England.  And  the  character  of  the 
mass  of  the  inhabitants  of  the  Western  States,  maybe  de- 
scribed as  a  compound  in  a  great  measure  of  the  New  England 
■and  Virginia  character.  It  is  a  character  modified  by  the  pe- 
culiar circumstances  in  which  tl>e  people  of  the  West  are 
found,  expending  their  energies  in  the  settlement  of  a  new 
country,  contending  with  the  evils  and  dangers  incident  to  the 
conversion  of  a  wilderness  into  a  fruitful  field,  and  engaged  in 
establishing  the  arts  of  civilized  life,  and  in  rearing  churches 
and  seminaries  of  learning,  in  places  where  none  before  exist- 
ed. Character,  under  such  circumstances,  is  marked  by  a 
hardihood,  a  firmness,  a  freedom,  an  independence,  and  prob- 
ably by  a  generosity,  unknown  to  people  living  in  greater  ease 
and  under  established  institutions. 

The  modes  of  dress  do  not  vary  greatly  in  the  different  sec- 
tions of  the  United  States,  and  maylherefore  be  spoken  of  as  a 
whole.  These  are  essentially  European,  more  especially 
English  and  French.  In  the  larger  cities  of  the  Union,  more 
expensive  modes  of  dress  are  adopted  than  else\^?here,  in  the 
country.  They  are  richer  and  more  fashionable,  and  are  in- 
troduced generally  from  London  and  Paris.  In  the  south,  the 
materials  of  dress  are  somewhat  lighter  than  at  the  north  or 
east.  The  Germans  of  the  Middle  States  have  some  pecuhari- 
lies  as  to  their  clothing,  and  often  wear  broad  hats  and  purple 
breeches.  In  Philadelphia,  "  there  is  tlie  drab  bonnet,  and  the 
drab  gown,  and  the  frill,  and  the  neckerchief^  and  apron  to 
correspond  ;  all  very  good,  and  in  a  certain  acceptation,  very 
bandsome  ;  but  there  are  no  feathers,  no  flounces,  no  gaudy 
colors,  and  finery,  either  genteel  or  shabby.— You  seldom  see 
the  auaker  dress  in  this  town  ;  but  it  has  evidently  qualified 
all  you  do  see.  It  has  a  happy  medium  between  what  you 
'Would  find  in  auaker  life,  and' fashionable  hfe;  it  borrows 
taste  from  the  one,  and  feminine  nicety  from  the  other. 
■In  the  west,  the  large  body  of  the  people,  who  are  agricultur- 
ists, are  clothed  in  garments  of  their  own  manufacture,  which 
are  little  conformed  to  elegance  or  fashion.     Some  of  the  re- 

*  Visit  to  the  American  Churches. 
3 


26  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

UNITED    STATES. 

mote  trappers  or  luinters  are  dressed  partly  in  furs,  and  you 
meet  frequently  with  the  huntin.!,'  sliirt  or  Irock. 

In  general,  the  people  oftiic  Onited  States  are  better  clothed 
than  the  people  of  any  other  country.  Almost  all  are  com- 
fortably clad.  In  most  parts  of  the  country,  before  tlie  manu- 
factures of  cotton  and  wool,  the  families  of  farmers  fabricated 
their  own  crarmcnts.  The  liand-card  and  spinninij  wheel  were 
found  in  almost  every  habitation.  But  these  have  now  yield- 
ed to  machinery,  wiiich  has  p;reatly  cheapened  and  multiplied 
almost  fvery  species  of  clothinsj;  worn  by  the  inhabitants. 
Hats  have  been  and  still  are  generally  worn,  but  caps  of  cloth 
or  fur  have  been  extensively  used  of  late  years.  A  few  cock- 
ed hats  are  extant,  (hough  worn  by  a  race  of  men  that  will 
soon  disapjiear  forever.  In  winter,  fur  is  worn  for  trimmings, 
and  sometimes  for  dress.  The  dress  of  th(>  females  even  in 
remote  villages  is  neat  and  showy.  Straw  hats  are  principal- 
ly worn,  and  they  are  made  in  ahnost  every  town,  anil  in  a 
variety  of  tasteful  patterns. 

There  in  little  uiiifornn'ty  hi  (he  dwell insr/i  of  a  people  inhab- 
iting so  widely  an  extended  country,  and  living  under  climates 
and  circumstances  so  various,  or  dissimilar.  The  mode  of 
building  is  accommodated  very  much  to  tJRMr  external  condi- 
tion. In  general,  elegance,  proportion,  or  taste,  is  not  much 
consulted,  especially  in  the  less  settled  parts  of  the  country. 
Reference  is  had  to  convenience  and  comfort,  though  not  in 
every  instance,  even  to  these,  in  the  absence  of  beauty  or 
synunetry.  In  general,  also,  the  dwi'Uings  of  the  people  of  the 
United  States,  are  couii)osed  of  less  substantial  materials, 
than  is  the  case  with  those  of  some  European  countries.  They 
are  constructed  conunonly  of  boards  or  logs  :  stone  or  brick 
not  being  the  common  material,  except  in  cities.  But  though 
the  hou.ses  of  our  citizens,  sjjeakiug  of  lliem  in  a  mass,  are  not 
distinguishetl  by  beauty  or  elegance,  yet  many  of  them  in  the 
country,  as  well  as  city,  are  very  neat  and  handsome  struc- 
tures. Individual  habitations  Wiere  are,  in  fine  and  imposing 
situations,  that  add  to  the  charni;,  of  our  natural  sc<'nery. 
And  these  residences  of  gentlemen,  particularly  meichants, 
j)rofessional  men,  head  manufacturers,  and  wealthy  farmers, 
are  multiplying  every  day  among  us.  In  the  vicinity  of  cities 
they  are  becoaung  vejy  numerous,  and  indicate  the  great  in- 
crease of  taste,  wealth,  and  luxury.  The  greater  proportion 
of  good  dwellings  in  tiie  coiuilry,  are  gi'ouped  together  in  vil- 
lages, where,  with  their  out-houses,  and  front  ami  garden  fen- 
ces, they  make  a  neat  and  pretty  appearance.  Indeed,  no  col- 
lection of  houses  in  any  country,  are  said  to  strike  the  eye 
with  greater  i-ffect,  as  objects  of  beauty,  than  many  Am(>ri(;an 
viilages,  particularly.4i10.se  in  New  England,  and  the  Middle 
States.  The  bright,  white  color  of  the  houses,  thickly  set  with 
wiiiilows,  whicli  are  adorned  with  green  Venetian  blinds,  to- 
getlier  With  their   paiiiled  uppendag'S,  ^'enerally  of  the  same 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  27 


MANNER    or    BUILDING. 


color,  beautifnlly  contrast,  in  the  summer,  with  the  green  of 
their  broad  and  quiet  streets,  filled  with  shade  trees,  and  of 
their  gardens  and  fields  enamelled  with  tiowers,  or  rich  with 
the  plants  and  fruits  of  tlie  season.  Even  in  the  countrj'',  the 
large,  unfinished,  uncolored,  baiii-iike  dwel-iing,  is  disappear- 
ing, and  its  place  is  supplied  with  the  neat  half-house,  which  is 
embellished,  not  unlike  the  city  or  village  residence.  In  gen- 
eral, there  is  a  great  improvement  throughout  the  Union,  though 
we  have  by  no  means  attained  to  th.e  beauty,  neatness,  comfort, 
and  durability  which  distinguish  the  ha.b.tations  of  the  better 
classes  of  Englishmen.  There  is  far  less  ground  for  there- 
mark  of  .Tefferson  now,  than  in  his  ovrn  da}/,  when  he  said,  in 
reference  however  to  a  single  state,  '■  that  the  genius  of  archi- 
tecture seems  to  have  shed  its  malediction  over  the  land." 

That  which  is  peculiar  or  striking  in  the  dwellings  in  the 
several  grand  divisions  of  the  country,  maybe  briefly  remark- 
ed upon.  In.  Ne-iiJ  England,  the  houses  are  chiefly  of  wood, 
and  are  frequently  less  shaded  than  they  should  be.  "The 
barns  are  large,  as  not  only  all  tlie  animals  ftre  sheltered,  but 
the  hay  and  grain  are  housed,  which  in  many  countries,  are 
stacked  in  the  open  air.  Here  and  there,  by  the  side  of  the 
older  houses,  may  be  seen  a  well-sv.-eep,  a  primitive  contri- 
vance to  draw  up  water  by  a  polo,  v^hich  is  attached  to  a  beam, 
moving  up  and  down  on  an  axle.  It  is  a  sort  of  lever  ;  the 
bucketand  beam  are  so  nearly  balanced,  that  a  little  aid  from 
the  hand  is  sufficient  for  the'  machinery.  The  villages  are 
generally  neatly  built,  and  some  of  them  are  the  most  beauti- 
ful in  the  world.  The  church  is  a  prom.inent  object  in  a  New 
XCnQ\.^nf]  viUnce:   it  has  frener-iHy  a.  bell   and    a  Spire,  with   a 

green  or  a  common  in  fi-ont."  The  houses  of  worship  are 
generally  constructed  in  a  good  style,  and  occasionally  of  du- 
rable materials,  as  brick  or  stone. 

In  some  of  the  older  towns  in  the  Middle  States,  "  there  are 
many  ancient  houses  of  the  Flemish  model,  tiled,  with  gables 
on  the  street,  and  huge  iron  weathercocks  on  the  top.  In  the 
western  part  of  New  York,  the  villages  are  built  in  an  exceed- 
ingly neat  manner,  and  the  houses  are  much  like  a  citizen's 
box  near  London,  though  they  have  more  freshness  of  appear- 
ance. They  are  of  wood,  and  painted  white,  and  they  have 
green  window  blinds,  and  often  verandas.  In  many  parts,  the 
log  houses  remain.  They  are  rude  dwellings,  in  which  the 
cracks  are  filTed  with  mud,  and  the  chimneys  are  on  the  out- 
side. In  Maryland  and  Pennsylvania  are  many  stone  houses 
and  barns;  the  latter  are  often  of  vast  size.  The  smaller  vil- 
lages in  these  States  are  many  of  them  poorly  built  of  squared 
logs,  or  with  wooden  frames,  filled  in  with  brick,  or  stone  and 
mortar.  Many  of  these  are  such  as  might  be  met  with  in  Ire- 
land or  Germany,  the  native  countries  of  the  inhabitants  who 
occupy  them.  The  cities  and  large  towns  in  the  Middle  States 
have  a  good  style  of  building.  In  New  York,  the  houses  are 
chiefly  of  brick,  and  in  a  neat  and  substantial  style-  in  Phila- 


28  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

UNITED  STATES. 


e> 


delpliia,  and  perhnps  in  Baltimore,  there  is  more  elegance,  and 
greater  simplicity." 

"In  the  Sdiifhrrn  Stafc.v.  the  mniiiirr  of  l)uilding  is  less  sub- 
stantial, than  in  the  Middle  nr  Nortiiern  States.  Few  houses 
are  of  t)rick.  and  the  low  country  is  without  stones.  Tiiose  in- 
habited by  the  planters  have  much  uniformity.  They  are  of 
one  or  two  stories,  and  have  a  veranda  in  frcuit.  and  chimneys 
at  the  end,  on  the  outside.  The  kitchen  and  (ithvr  offices  are 
in  separate  huildin<rs,  in  the  rear.  The  nep;ro  houses  have 
chimneys,  and  two  rooms,  and  the  poorest  of  them  are  better 
than  tiie  cabins  in  Ireland,  or  the  IIic;lilands  of  Scotland. 
There  arc  also  in  some  parts,  m.any  lojj-houses,  which  are  com- 
mon with  both  whites  and  blacks."  The  residences  of  the 
wealthy  are  often  in  jsrood  taste  and  commodious,  but  seldom, 
with  any  pretensions  to  elegance.  They  are  generally  ])laced 
at  a  considerable  distance  from  the  public  roads,  and  are  ap- 
proached through  ijates,  which  open  into  a  lane  runninp:;  moi-e 
or  less  cii'cuitously  nji  to  the  dwelling.  They  are  emijosomed 
with  trees,  and  clustering  near  them  often  are  the  small  dwell- 
ings of  the  negroes.  The  lands  aromid  them  are  commonly 
cleared  to  a  considerable  extent,  consisting  of  large  (idds  de- 
voted to  the  cultivation  of  the  sta))les  of  the  South.  All  around 
those  open  places  is  an  unbroken  wilderness. 

In  the  Jl'etit,  we  see  occasionally  structures  like  those  of  the 
East — some  towns  are  even  built  of  hrick,  but  generally  there 
is  very  little  good  architecture.  Though  the  villages  often 
look  well,  you  may  see  in  most  of  them,  the  log-houses  of  the 
first  settlers.  "  Remote  from  towns,  the  lo^--house  is  still  the 
most  common  Ijuildinpr-  it  rPQui'es  little  skill  to  build  one,  for 
there  are  neither  pillars  for  ornament,  nor  posts  lor  support. 
The  house  is  made;  with  unhewn  trni^ks  laid  upon  one  another, 
and  plastered  between  the  crevices.  Tlie  chimneys  are  on 
tlie  outside,  composed  of  ciay,  and  supported  by  wicker-work. 
The  houses  are  seldom  so  spacious  that  the  chamber,  parlor, 
nnd  kitchen,  are  in  different  apaitnuMits,  and  tiie  |)i^s  and  poul- 
tiy  have  sometimes  a  free  range.  They  are,  however,  cheap 
and  comfortable.  They  are  covered  with  bark  or  long  split 
shingles." 

'I'he  nrchiterture  of  the  United  State.s,  as  exlribited  in  the 
public  buildings,  is  respectable.  It  is  gi^neially  characterized 
oy  neatness  and  taste, — with  simplicity  and  moderate  orna- 
ment. There  are  some  fine  buildings,  but  the  number  is  small 
compared  with  what  it  is  in  F-nii;land,  France,  G(Mrnany,  or  Ita- 
ly. The  more  ina2;nihci'nt  pul)lic  structures  in  those  coun- 
tries, find  no  [larallel  in  the  United  States.  Oin-  rcnient  origin, 
want  of  means,  and  republican  simplicity,  with  other  causes, 
have  been  unfavoraiole  to  the  erection  of"^  many  architectural 
moniunents.  Still,  there  are  a  few  in  most  jiortions  of  the 
country,  and  the  taste  for  them  seems  to  be  f;ist  increasing. 
The  banks,  speaking  of  them  as  a  class,  are  perhaps  the  best 
edifices  in  the  United  States.     They  are  often  built  from  Gro- 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  29 


CELEBRATED   PUILDINGS. 


cian  models.  This  is  particularly  the  case  with  the  United 
States  Bank  in  Philadoljihia,  which  is  constructed  of  white  mar- 
ble, with  a  front  on  the  model  of  the  Parthenon.  It  is  a  beau- 
tiful structure,  and  one  of  the  best  in  the  country.  The  church- 
es are  also  neat  and  pleasing  edifices,  and  of  various  orders. 
There  are  several  of  superior  elegance  in  Boston,  New  York, 
and  Baltimore.  St.  Paul's  chapel  in  New  York,  and  the  Cath- 
olic cathedral  in  Baltimore,  are  finished  structures.  There 
are  individual  buildings  of  other  and  different  descriptions,  that 
are  handsome  specimens  of  art.  Among  these  is  the  City  Hall 
in  New  York,  which  is  an  elegant  structure  with  a  front  of 
white  marble,  being  216  feet  long,  and  105  broad.  It  makes 
a  brilliant  appearance,  in  the  fine  situation  which  it  occupies. 
Faneuil  Hall  Market  in  Boston,  is  a  large  and  beautiful  build- 
ing, constructed  of  granite,  having  two  stories  in  height,  and 
536  feet  in  length.  In  its  centre  is  a  dome,  and  at  each  end  is 
a  portico  of  four  columns,  each  of  entire  stone.  It  is  the  most 
elegant  market  in  the  United  States,  and  probably  in  the  world. 
The  Capitol  of  Virginia,  at  Richmond,  is  a  fi-ie  structure,  cele- 
brated for  its  beauty  and  imposing  effect.  It  stands  on  the 
summit  of  the  city,  and  has  a  noble  portico. 

The  most  celebrated  building  in  the  United  States,  is  its 
Capitol,  in  the  city  of  Washington.  This  is  a  large  and  mag- 
nificent structure  of  white  freestone,  352  feet  long,  having  the 
shape  of  a  cross,  with  the  Representatives'  Hall,  and  the  Sen- 
ate Chamber  in  the  two  wings,  and  a  spacions  Rotunda  in  the 
centre.  An  English  traveller  has  lately  given  a  description  of 
it.  with  a  few  criticisms,  which,  though  dictated  by  a  spirit 
somewhat  fastidious,  may  be  deserving  of  our  notice.  "  It  [the 
Capitol]  stands  on  a  swell  of  land,  which  is  so  abrupt  on  one 
side  as  to  have  the  effect  of  being  artificial.  The  inclination 
should  be  far  less  acute.  The  erection  is  of  very  large  di- 
mensions, approaching,  though  still  very  distant,  to  our  St. 
Paul's.  It  is  composed  of  two  wings  and  a  centre  ;  and  the 
centre  is  graced  with  steps,  portico,  and  dome.  The  columns 
of  the  portico  are  too  slender;  and  they  are  made  to  look  more 
so,  from  the  oppressive  flights  of  steps  which  lead  to  them. 
The  smaller  domes  and  semicircular  lights  in  the  roof  are  dis- 
sights  which  might  readily  be  avoided.  It  is  however,  with 
these  and  other  faults,  a  grand  building,  and  every  where  in 
the  distance  has  a  very  striking  effect.  Tlie  Chamber  of  Rep- 
resentatives is  always  regarded  as  the  chief  object  of  sight.  It 
is  indeed  highly  imposing.  It  is  a  very  large  room,  with  its 
roof  sustained  by  twenty-four  fine  marble  columns  of  grand  di- 
mensions. The  President,  or  chairman,  has  a  raised  and  can- 
opied seat  in  the  centre  of  a  straight  line,  with  more  glitter 
about  it  than  you  would  find  about  the  British  throne ;  and  the 
desks  and  seats  of  the  members  diverge  from  it  in  radiating 
lines.  A  gallery  runs  behind  the  pillars,  through  the  course 
of  the  half  circle.  The  general  impression  was  not,  on  the 
whole,  pleasing.  Less  than  one  third  of  the  place  was  occupi- 
3* 


30  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

UNITED  STATES. 


ed  ;  and  the  rnipty  space  and  larire  proportions  of  the  room 
give  a  dimimitiveness  and  insignilicance  to  the  persons  present. 
The  Senate  Chamber  is  of  far  less  size,  and  of  no  pretensions  ; 
but  it  is  well  adapted  to  its  uses,  and  therefore  gives  the  eye 
satisfaction." 

Hie  abundance  and  variety  of  artirlfs  nf  dirt  in  the  United 
States,  are  matters  of  con)mon  remark.  Travellers  from 
abroad  have  noticed  the  fact,  and  all  have  pronounced  this 
country  a  land  of  plenty.  In  no  country  is  there  more  or  bet- 
ter food,  or  such  a  vast  jiroportion  of  people  tliat  can  command 
its  varieties.  The  culinary  art  with  some  nations  may  have  at- 
taiiied  to  greater  perfection  than  with  us  ;  yet  Americans  are 
not  peculiarly  deficienteven  here,  and  in  many  private  families, 
as  well  as  public  houses,  articles  for  tlie  table  are  prepared  and 
served  up  with  every  requisite  attention.  The  employment  of 
European  cooks  is  not  uncommon,  in  our  large  places.  In 
most  other  countries,  especially  of  the  Old  World,  animal  food 
Is  a  luxury,  seldom  enjoyed  by  the  poor.  In  this  country,  few 
are  in  so  straitened  circumstances,  that  they  cannot  afibrd  it  ev- 
ery day.  And,  then,  in  times  of  scarcity,  through  failure  of 
the  crop.s,  or  any  single  crop,  or  in  times  of  stagnation  of  busi- 
ness, incredible  hardships  and  sulferings  are  experienced  by 
the  needy  European  :  starvation  in  many  instances  Hterally 
ensues.  Here,  such  an  occurrence  is  scarcely  ever,  if  ever, 
heard  of,  in  individual  experience.  The  variety  of  soil,  and 
climate,  and  situation  in  our  country,  is  so  great,  that  we  are 
hardly  to  look  for  a  f;iiliu-e  of  anj^  single  crop,  throughout  the 
country,  and  in  any  considerable  ]iart  of  it. 

The  habits  of  our  country  allow  the  eating  of  animal  C>od, 
generally,  twice,  if  not  three  times  a  day.  Our  breakfasts  are 
much  richer  and  more  substantial  than  those  of  the  English 
|)eople.  We  make  less  account  of  dinner,  ordinarily,  than 
tiioy.  and  our  suppers  are  various :  with  son^e  classes,  they  are 
a  light  concern— with  others,  especially  the  laboring  classes, 
they  consist  of  abundance  of  solid  food. 

In  .V/'ir  I^mrland,  in  the  country  towns,  breakfast  is  usuallv 
made  at  an  early  hour,  and  often  at  sunrise  or  before.  '•  In  a 
farmer's  family,  it  consists  of  little  less  than  ham,  beef,  sau- 
sages, pork,  bread,  bultei'.  boiled  potatoes,  pies,  coffee,  and 
cider.  The  use  of  coffee  in  the  morning  and  of  tea  at  niixht, 
is  almost  universal.  At  hotels  and  boarding-houses,  breakfast 
us  f)f  beef,  nuitton,  ham,  broiled  chickens,  sausages,  tripe,  va- 
rious kinds  of  fish,  tongue,  bread,  butter,  coffee,  and  cider. 
The  most  usual  bread  in  cities  is  made  of  wheat-flour  ;  in  the 
country,  the  common  bread  is  made  of  rye,  or  of  a  mixture  of 
rye  and  Indian  corn."'  Of  the  flour  or  meal  of  the  latter,  an 
article  of  food  is  made,  called  mush,  or  hasty-pudding,  which 
is  a  favorite  dish  with  most  of  the  people,  and  most  commonly 
prepared  on  Saturday  evening.  It  is  eaten  often  in  that  form 
with  milk,  or  when  fried  after  having  been  cooled.     The  boiled 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  31 


FOOD. — DRINKS. 


Indian  pudding  also,  is  a  favorite  dish  in  the  New  England 
country  towns,  especially  with  the  more  ancient  class  of  people. 

In  the  Middle  States,  there  are  articles  of  food  used,  which 
are  rarely  met  with  in  New  England,  except  in  cities.  This  is 
the  case  particularly  with  the  sweet  potato,  which  is  much 
used  in  New  Jersey  and  in  the  States  south  of  it.  It  is  cooked 
variously,  though  it  is  best  boiled  or  roasted.  The  buckwheat 
cake  is  a  delicious  article  of  fare,  though  it  is  not  peculiar  to 
any  one  section  of  country.  Hominy,  which  is  made  of  coarse 
Indian  meal  by  boiling  it  to  a  consistency,  is  much  used,  in 
the  southern  portion  of  the  Middle  States.  Shad  are  a  com- 
mon article  of  diet,  which  are  caught  in  abundance  and  of  an 
excellent  quality  in  those  States. 

In  the  SoxUhern  States,  the  food  differs  considerably  from 
what  it  is  at  the  North.  "  In  the  former  there  are  few  of  the 
garden  vegetables,  and  the  Irish  potato  is  not  generally  raised. 
K-ice  is  much  used,  chiefly  boiled;  it  is  often  eaten  as  bread. 
Hominy  is  found  at  all  tables.  Hoe-cake,  which  is  the  johnny- 
cake  of  New  England,  and  ashpone,  which  is  a  coarse  cake 
baked  under  the  ashes,  are  in  common  use  as  bread.  Ham  is 
a  general  article  of  food,  and  the  traveller  will  often  find  it  set 
before  him  three  times  a  day.  In  Virginia,  it  is  a  standing  dish, 
accompanied  by  greens.  In  Louisiana,  gumbo,  a  compound 
soup,  is  much  used,  and  at  New  Orleans,  it  is  sold  in  the 
streets." 

"  The  IVestern  Stales  have,  with  the  exception  of  fish,  the 
same  kinds  of  food  that  are  common  in  theMiddl.e  States,  and 
several  more.  There  is  indeed  no  scarcity  of  fish  in  the  riv- 
ei-s,  but  they  are  coarse  and  little  esteemed.  The  two  great 
articles  of  food  are  bacon  and  Indian  corn.  Hominy  and  the 
johnny-cake  will  never  fail  the  traveller,  either  in  the  south  or 
west.  There  is  game  in  abundance,  and  it  is  much  used  as 
food.  The  sweet  potato  is  eaten,  and  in  many  parts,  rice. 
The  rice  is  boiled  hard,  and  used  with  gravy,  as  potatoes  are 
in  New  England.  Coffee  and  tea  are  as  much  consumed  as 
they  are  in  any  part  of  the  country.  Maple,  and  other  sugars, 
are  common.  The  hotels  are  well  furnished  with  substantial 
food,  and  at  dinner,  both  whiskey  and  milk  are  placed  upon 
tlie  table." 

Whiskey  is  the  most  common  of  the  distilled  spirits  in  use 
in  the  Western  and  Southern  States,  and  indeed  in  the  Middle. 
New  England  ram,  a  poison  distilled  from  molasses,  is  or 
rather  has  been  the  bane  of  the  Eastern  States.  The  same  is 
true  also  of  cider-brandy,  a  spiritous  liquor  made  by  the  dis- 
tillation of  cider.  Peach-brandy  is  common  in  the  Southern 
States.  While  each  section  has  had  its  peculiar  or  favorite 
home-manufactured  spirits,  French  brandy,  Holland  gin,  and 
West  India  rums  have  been  more  or  less  common  to  them  all. 
Iji  the  New  England  States,  as  well  as  several  others,  cider  is 
a  peverage  much  in  use.  It  is  kept  in  barrels  and  hogsheads 
in  the  cellars  of  farmers  and  some  other  classes  of  citizens. 


22  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

UNITED  STATES. 


It  is,  liowevcr,  but  slip;htly  intoxicating,  and  sridom  forms  or 
perpctiiatt's  intempemte  iiabits.  It  is  nevcrtliclrss  used  far  too 
libfi-aliy  to  consist  with  perfect  safety  to  liealtli  or  morals. 
Much  beer,  unhap|iiiy,  is  drank  in  the  Middle  .Sttites,  and  the 
time  was,  when  there  was  scarcely  a  large  town  in  those 
States,  whicii  had  not  one  or  more  breweries.  Cider,  l)eer, 
and  porter,  are  in  considerable  use  in  the  Southern  antl  West- 
ern States.  The  rich  ut  the  South  bestow  much  care  and  ex- 
jicnse  upon  their  wines,  which  are  chiefly  sherry  and  Madeira, 
except  in  Louisiana,  where  claret  is  more  in  use. 

Ill  a  coiuilry  wliere  liquors  are  cheap,  and  every  facility  is 
enjoyed  almost  by  every  class  to  conunand  any  (|uantity  ot 
intoxicating  (h'ink,  there  would  natuially  be  intemperance. 
The  habits  of  the  people  were  accordingly  becoming  extreme- 
ly vitiated,  in  respect  to  tiie  use  of  inebriating  li(]uors,  not 
many  years  ago.  The  danger  to  our  institutions,  our  liberties, 
our  morals,  our  healtii,  and  our  ha|i|iiness  as  a  people,  became 
so  imminent,  that  the  piety  and  patriotism  of  the  nation  were 
excited,  and  measures  were  adopted  by  degrees  to  check,  if 
not  ext(M-minate,  the  evil.  The  disuse  of  all  ardent  spirits  as  a 
drink  on  the  part  of  individuals,  and  the  pledge  to  abstain 
through  public  associations  for  this  purpose,  began  the  work 
of  jimendment.  and  it  has  gone  on  ever  since,  in  a  continual- 
ly increasing  ratio,  and  inciuduig  in  many  instances  the  abju- 
ration (if  all  inebriating  drinks. 


o 


77u>  is  the  era  of  (ravellini^,  not  only  in  tliis  country, but  in 
many  others.  Whether  for  improvi'ment,  or  gratification,  it 
has  increased  within  a  few  years,  lifty  or  a  hundred  fold, 
and  it  is  continually  augmenting.  The  numerous  facilities 
which  have  been  created  for  intercourse,  not  t)nly  between  one 
part  of  a  country  and  another,  but  between  one  country  and 
otiier  countries,  have  been  one  cause,  doubtless,  of  the  great 
increase  of  travelling.  Vast  multitudes  throng  the  public  con 
veyances  in  the  United  States.  The  use  of  private  vehicles, 
and  particularly  riding  on  horseback  for  the  pinposc  of 
making  extended  journeys,  is  comparatively  little  known  at 
present.  Few  countries  have  such  ficilities  for  cheap,  agree- 
able, and  expeditious  travelling,  as  i)orti(ms  of  tiu;  United 
States,  and  few  people  have  a  stronger  disposition  to  avail 
themselves  of  their  advantages,  in  this  respect.  Their  noble 
bays  and  large  rivers,  indeed  all  their  waters  of  sufficient 
dcjith,  as  well  as  the  ocean  itself,  are  plied  with  numerous 
steamboats,  many  of  which  are  elegantly  constructed,  and 
furnished  with  every  accommodation  or  luxury  that  can  be 
wisiied.  In  New  England,  the  roads  are  generally  excellent, 
and  are  thronged  witii  stagecoaches,  most  of  which  arr  good. 
In  many  partsofthe  Middle  States  the  roads  are  line  forstajje 
coaches.  In  other  parts,  however,  they  are  bad,  and  kept  in 
a  very  indiflerent  state  of  repair.  In  the  Southern  States  tl»ero 
is  little  travelling  for  j)leasure.     It  is  chiefly  the  necessities  of 


TjNlVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  33- 


MODES    OF    TRAVELLING. 


health  and  business  tluit  induce  the  people  there  to  leave  their 
homes.  Neither  the  roads,  vehicles,  nor  inns  are  good.  The 
roads  are  often  alternations  of  sand  and  swamp  ;  frequently 
lo2;s  laid  across  serve  the  purpose  of  terra  firma  ;  and  the 
motion  of  vehicles  over  these  is  any  thing  than  pleasur- 
able. In  addition  to  all  their  other  inconveniences,  these 
swamp  roads  are  often  under  water.  The  most  eligible  mode 
of  travelling  at  the  south  is  on  horseback.  In  the  Western 
States  the  roads  are  too  rough  for  comfortable  riding  in  car- 
riages; the  stage  coaches  also  are  less  commodious  than  at 
the  East;  and  such  is  the  extent  and  unsettled  nature  of  the 
country,  that  the  communication  is  long  and  distant.  But  the 
ideas  of  space  and  distance  entertained  by  the  Western  peo- 
ple, are  on  a  grand  scale,  and  convenient  to  themselves.  They 
think  little  of  a  journey  of  two  or  three  thou.sand  miles.  Tak- 
ing, however,  their  water  conveyances  into  view,  the  facility  of 
communication  makes  some  amends  for  the  evils  of  distance 
and  space.  Their  rivers  are  the  great  means  of  intercourse, 
and  are  plied  by  ail  sorts  of  craft  and  water  conveyances. 
Hundreds  of  steamboats  navigate  the  waters  of  the  Ohio  and 
the  Mississippi.  The  great  tlioroughfares  in  the  West  are 
thronged  with  singular  collections  of  travellers.  Many  are  so 
stricken  with  poverty  that  they  have  scarcely  any  comforts  j 
others  abound  in  flocks  and  herds  or  slaves.  On  land,  they 
often  cook  for  themselves,  and  pass  the  night  in  their  wagons 
or  tents. 

Taking  the  United  States  throughout,  the  communication  by 
means  of  steamboats,  though  not  perfectly  safe,  is  the  most  ex- 

pf.Hitir>na   anri    plp>asarit.      It  io   generally,    also,    the    cheapest 

mode  of  travelling.  In  New  England  and  the  Middle  States, 
these  boats  are  all'that  can  be  wished,  as  to  comfort,  neatness, 
and  beauty.  The  loss  of  life  by  explosions,  has  sometimes  ta- 
ken place,  but  even  here,  this  has  been  oftener  owing  to  care- 
less management,  than  to  any  other  cause.  In  the  Southern 
country  there  are  many  noble  streams,  but  the  boats  which  ply 
them  are  less  convenient,  inasmuch  as  they  carry  merchandise 
and  produce,  as  well  as  passengers.  To  the  boats  that  sail 
the  Western  streams,  particularly  the  Mississippi,  there  are 
other  dangers  than  those  which  arise  from  the  bursting  of 
boilers.  The  most  serious  danger  arises  from  what  is  called 
snap-ging.  This  means  the  collision  of  the  boats  against  large 
trees,  that  are  imbedded  in  the  mud  at  the  bottom  of  the  Mfs- 
sissippi.  These  are  frequently  falling  into  the  stream,  in  con- 
sequence of  the  caving  in  of  the  banks,  which  are  worn  by  the 
change  and  rapidity  of  the  current.  A  boat  striking  upon  these 
trees,  is  often  so  broken  as  to  fill  immediately  with  water,  and 
sometimes  the  passengers  have  no  opportunity  for  escape. 
Lately,  however,  boats  are  constructed  with  a  snag  room,  or 
bulwark,  ten  or  fifteen  feet  above  the  bows,  and  thus  are  pro- 
tected against  accidents  of  this  kind. 

The  mode  of  conveyance  in  steam  cars,  on  rail  roads,  ig 


34  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

UNITED  STATES. 

coming  fast  into  use  in  this  country,  as  those  roads  are  con- 
structing throughout  tlie  length  and  bn^adth  of  the  land.  It  is 
an  expeditious  and  agroeablf  mode  of  travelling,  and  in  gen- 
eral, safe.  A  few  fatal  accidcMits  have  occurred  on  them,  as 
must,  in  a  degree,  he  expected  where  steam  is  employed.  In 
the  Middle  States  there  is  a  mode  of  travelling,  which  is  not 
in  so  frequent  use  elsewhere.  This  is  the  sailing  in  canal  boats. 
As  the  great  northwestiMu  lakes  are  united  by  a  canal  with  the 
Hudson  river,  a  wide  extent  of  country  may  be  jiassed  over 
by  this  mode  of  travelling.  It  is  not  e.Kpeditious,  but  is  com- 
paratively safe.  The  boats  move  not  quite  100  miles  in  21 
hours.  There  are  other  canals  also  of  considerable  extent  in 
these  States.  They  are  also  fjund  in  the  South  and  West, 
and  a  very  few  in  IVew  England.  Food  and  lodging  are  fur- 
nished in  canal  boats,  which,  in  many  instances,  are  neatly 
Jitted  up.  A  part  of  an  account  from  a  recent  visiter  to  tliis 
country,  which  describes  in  a  lively  manner  this  mode  of 
travelling,  will  be  subjoined.  Speaking  of  the  Erie  canal, 
he  says — 

"  There  was  much  business  on  this  water  thorough-fare. 
The  boats  for  the  transit  of  jioods  were  called  'line-boats,'  and 
those  for  passengers,  'packets.'  The  prickets  were  a  sort  of 
mail;  they  are  drawn  by  three  horses  at  a  slow  trot;  and  do 
not  clear  more  than  four  miles  an  hour.  With  some  twenty 
persons,  our  packet  might  have  been  tolerable  ;  but  it  so  hap- 
pened that  we  had  from  sixty  to  sevent}'  jiassengers  on  board, 
and  there  was  much  to  bear.  For  all  these  persons,  male  and 
female,  there  was  only  one  room  to  live,  and  meal,  and  sleep 
in,  of  about  twflve  feet  t)y  seventy.  Theic  ^rcrc  o«ii-tnin»  in 
deed  provided,  which  might  separate  a  jiortion  from  the  rest 
when  needful;  still  the  dimensions  were  the  same." 

'•  During  the  day,  we  could  relieve  oiu'selves  by  going  on 
the  roof  of  the  boat ;  and  this  is  a  desirable  place,  both  for  air 
and  the  sight  of  the  country.  I3ut  we  had  difficulties  here. 
There  was  no  jirovision  against  a  burning  sun;  and  the 
bridges  were  so  numerous,  and  so  low,  as  to  be  exceedin'^ly 
troublesome,  and  if  you  were  negligent,  somewhat  dangerous. 
It  was  part  of  the  duty  of  the  helmsman  to  observe  these,  and 
give  notice  of  them  by  the  cry  f)f 'bridge.'  It  was  some  time 
before  we  got  drilled  to  it ;  and  when  w(>  were,  it  was  an  amu- 
sing s])ectacle.  Some  twenty  men  would  be  standing,  sitting, 
and  looking  about  in  all  directicms,  and  variously  engaged ; 
but  at  the  cry  of 'a  bridge,'  ihey  would  repeat  the?  cry,  as  the 
papist  would  his  prayers,  and  tix  their  eyes  in  one  direction; 
and  when  the  object  came,  they  would  i)rostrate  themselves 
on  the  floor,  as  at  the  ringing  of  the  bell,  and  the  elevation  of 
the  host." 

"  I'ut  night  came,  and  with  it,  it  was  needfid  to  look  to  sleep- 
ing accfmitnodation.  From  all  appe.irances,  it  did  not  seem 
that  any  provision  could  be  made  for  this  j)urpose.  It  was 
Boon  shown  how  much  contrivance  could  do,  if  it  could  not  do 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  35 

CANALS. — INNS. 

all  that  the  occasion  required.  The  curtains  I  named  were 
dropped  over  one  third  of  the  room,  and  thus  made  a  provision 
for  the  ladies  and  children.  Our  portion  of  the  room  was 
cleared.  A  set  of  frames,  like  larger  shelves,  were  produced  ; 
and  were  suspended  behind,  by  hinge  and  pivot,  to  the  side  of 
the  vessel,  and  in  front  by  a  small  cord  attached  to  the  ceiling. 
Three  tier  of  these  were  carried  round  the  room,  which  was 
not  more  than  six  feet  high ;  so  that  it  had  tlie  appearance  of 
being  filled,  from  top  to  floor,  with  small  bins.  Then  all  the 
tables  were  collected,  and  placed  down  the  middle  of  the  room, 
as  far  as  they  would  go.  The  settees  were  employed  to  fill  in 
any  possible  spaces  ;  and  after  all  this  accommodation  was 
disposed  of,  it  was  plainly  understood  that  there  remained  just 
the  floor." 

"  I  took  a  couple  of  chairs,  and  placing  them  as  near  the 
door  as  practicable,  I  lounged  on  them  in  such  away  as  to  rest 
the  body,  and  possibly  to  forget  myself  for  a  few  moments. 
It  was  now  beyond  midnight;  and  nearly  all  were  fast  asleep, 
and  were  assuring  you  of  it,  by  muttering  and  noisy  respira- 
tion.    The  sight  was  really  a  singular  one.     The  room  was 
packed  all  around,  iVom  top  to  bottom,  with  human  beings. 
The  tables,  the  settees,  the  floor,  all  covered.     My  chairs  had 
.scarcely  a  place  to  stand  ;  and  two  persons  lay  at  my  feet,  and 
'one  at  my  elbow.     Two  lines  of  cord  had  been  carried  dov.'n 
the  ceiling  of  the  room,  that  the  spare  garments  might  be 
hung  on  them.     Here  then  was  an  exhibition  of  coats,  trou- 
isers,   waistcoats,  cravats,  and  hats,  worthy  of  Monmouth- 
street;  the  great  evil  of  which  was,  that  it  cut  olT  the  little 
chances  of  ventilation.     Two  glimmering,  imsnuffed  candles, 
••gave  sepulcliral  lights  to  the  whole.     Occasionally,  however, 
the  scene  was   animated.      The  -vessel   v/as  liable  to  sharp 
jerks  on  entering  the  locks  ;  and  when  these  occurred,  you 
-miglit  see  some  dozen  heads  starting  from  the  sides,  like  so 
many  turtles  from  their  shells;   with  a  suitable  accompani- 
ment of  wild  and  sleepy  exclamations  ;  and  then  again  they 
were  drawn  in,  and  all  was  still.  _.I^ell  into  a  short  slumber, 
and  reproached  myself  for  doing  so;  v.iien  I  awoke,  I  found 
my  foot  in  the  face  of  aiiother  sleeper;  and  as  the  night  wore 
away,  most  of  them  getting  into  similar  pi-edicaments." 

Many  inns  in  the  tlnited  Ktates  are  excellent,  in  some  re- 
spects, but  there  are  many  also  that  are  indifferent,  and  num- 
bers that  are  worse  than  indifferent.  In  general,  they  are  by 
no  means  equal  to  those  of  England.  '•  They  are  abundantly 
provided  with  food,"  as  one  re^narks,  "but  this  is  not  always 
well  cooked.  They  are  also  deficient  in  cleanliness,  and  in 
those  attentions  to  the  v/ants  of  a  traveller,  which  can  alone 
make  him  feel  at  home,  when  he  is  in  a  strange  place.  These 
defects,  however,  arise  from  ignorance,  rather  than  from  a 
want  of  means,  or  good  disposition.  In  England,  the  keeper  of 
a  hotel  or  inn  is  always  bred  to  his  business,  and  is  therefore 
thoroughly  acquainted  with  it.    la  this  country,  'the  tavern 


^6  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

UNITED  STATES. 

kcppers'  are,  many  of  them,  those  who  have  been  unsuccessfu 
in  other  pursuits,  or  have  chosen  tliis  occupation,  with  tlie  er- 
roneous idea  that  anybody  can  'keep  a  tavern.'  Competition 
is  fast  removing;  the  defects  of  tliese  establislinients,  and  as  they 
are  of  great  importance  to  tlx^  public  convenience,  we  look 
upon  their  improvement  witii  strong  interest." 

It  voiild  he  (lifTicult  to  nnmp  any  simple  fpsti'rnl  or  diversion, 
wliich  is  a  special  favorite  with  the  nation,  or  whicli  is  observ- 
ed with  equal  zest  throu2;hout  the  Union.  A  few,  perhaps,  are 
common  to  all  parts  of  the  country,  though  ciierished  witli 
(liferent  degrees  of  interest.  Each  section  of  the  Union  has 
a  few  pastimes  or  sports  of  its  own,  which  we  shall  soon  un- 
dertake to  notice  under  this  article.  In  general,  as  a  people, 
the  Americans  are  less  given  to  things  of  this  sort,  than  most 
other  nations.  They  are  engaged  in  more  .substantial  pur- 
suits, especially  that  of  obtaining  property.  Still,  in  many  parts 
of  the  countrv,  and  among  certain  descriptions  of  peoi)le.  there 
is  no  want  of  pastimes  ;  and  festivals,  botli  civil  and  religious, 
are  observed  with  considerable  frequency  throughout  the  land. 
Tf  we  were  called  upon  to  name  any  national  festival,  it  would 
be  the  Fourth  of  July,  or  the  anniversary  of  our  Independence. 
As  a  national  amu.sement,  possibly  dancing  might  be  named, 
or  that  used  to  be  a  favorite,  though  less  i)ractiscd  at  present, 
and  also  various  forms  of  ball-playing. 

In  Xew  EiiiTlnnd,  we  may  notice  first,  the  day  of  Thnvks- 
pivincr.  That  dav  is  dear  to'the  heart  of  every  son  and  daugh- 
ter of  that  favored  region.  It  is  sweet  in  the  anticipation,  in  the 
enjoyment,  and  in  the  remembrance.  Infancy,  youth,  and  old 
age — all  ranks,  degree.s.  sexes,  and  complexions,  are  rendered 
h;ippv  by  its  annuiil  return;  and  all  unite  in  the  heart,  if  not 
with  the' voice,  in  shouting  its  welcome.  It  tak(\s  place  late  in 
autumn,  after  the  fruits  of  the  earth  arc  gathered  in,  and  the 
labors  of  the  luisbandinan  have  been  rewarded  bythe  fruition 
of  tiic  harvest.  The  governors  of  tlie  States  appoint  the  day, 
and  issue  a  proclamation  to  that  effect— a  printed  cojjy  (d 
which  is  put  into  the  hand  of  each  clergyman.  When  the 
happy  d.iy  arrives,  the  people  assemble  in  their  respective 
jilacrs  ftf  worship,  dressed  in  their  bi-st  attire  There  the^' 
listen  to  an  ai)i»ropriate  sermon,  and  join  in  jtrayer,  hymns, 
and  anthems.  exi)ressly  adapted  to  the  occasion.  These  ser- 
vices generally  occupy  about  two  hours,  and  then  are  over  for 
the  day;  the  remainder  of  which  is  variously  sjient,  whether 
rr'Iigiously  or  in  recreation,  according  to  the  tastes  of  tlie 
people. 

The  "  Thnidcsvirinp  f//;?7)^r"  forms,  however,  a  prominent 
featin-e  of  tho  picture.  l-^ery  farmer's  table  now  literally 
"groans  with  the  weight  of  the  feast."  Flesh  and  fowls  of  his 
own  raising  and  fatteninir— fisli  and  grime  from  his  own  streams 
and  woodlands — vegetables  of  his  own  planting — butt<'r,  milk 
and  cheese,  the  product  of  his  own  dairy — are  now  found  in 


United  States  Capitol,   V/ashington.         F.  '-iS. 


Pa:':n  Party.  P.  3«. 


Thanksgiving  Dinner.         P.  36. 


Barbecue.         P.  39. 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  37 

ELECTION. — FOURTH  OF  JULY. — COMMENCEMENTS. 


luxuriant  profusion  upon  his  hospitable  table;  while  the  deli- 
cious "pumpkin  pie"  leads  a  host  of  other  dainties  in  the 
bountiful  dessert.  Apprentices  in  the  cities,  who  are  permitted 
to  visit  their  parental  and  rural  homes  only  once  or  twice  a  year, 
are  now  sure  to  be  present;  and  a  hoary-headed  patriarch 
often  presides  at  these  domestic  banquets,  where  the  guests  com- 
prise two  or  three  generations  of  his  own  descendants.  In  the 
cities  and  populous' to wlis  of  New  England,  this  festival  is  not 
observed  with  the  same  strictness,  nor  enjoyed  with  the  same 
zest,  that  distinguishes  it  in  country  villages.  This  circum- 
stance is  probably  owing  to  the  modern  introduction  of  other 
holydays,  particularly  that  of  Christmas,  which  is  now  kept, 
with  more  or  less  devotion,  by  Christians  of  various  denomi- 
nations. 

Election  day,  as  it  is  improperly  denominated,  is  an  anniver- 
sary of  some  importance,  in  the  metropolis  of  New  England, 
and  at  the  seat  of  government,  in  each  of  the  States.  It  is  not 
the  day,  however,  on  which  the  elective  franchise  is  exercised 
by  thecitizens,  but  on  which  the  governor  elect,  and  other  suc- 
cessful candidates,  are  installed  in  office.  Military  parades  are 
common  on  these  occasions,  and  people  flock  into  town  from 
all  quarters,  to  witness  the  splendid  pageant.  Every  place  of 
public  amusement  holds  out  unusual  attractions  to  the  excited 
multitude. 

The  Fourth  of  Jvly  is  celebrated  in  all  the  cities  and  popu- 
lous towns  of  New  England,  as  elsewhere  in  the  United  States, 
by  military  parades,  firing  of  cannon,  display  of  colors,  ring- 
ing of  bells,  patriotic  orations,  public  dinners,  &c. 

Commencements  at  the  several  colleges  of  New  England,  are 
days  of  much  public  festivity,  in  the  places  where  they  are 
held.  They  are  attended  by  numerous  visiters  from  abroad, 
and  generally  those  of  the  more  polished  and  literary  classes. 
The  public  exercises  of  the  day  are  generally  made  very  inter- 
esting, by  the  literary  exhibitions  of  the  graduating  students, 
and  by  appropriate  music.  A  holyday  is  often  enjoj^ed  on 
these  occasions,  by  mechanics,  apprentices,  servants,  laborers, 
teachers,  pupils,  and  all  subordinates,  whose  services  can  be 
dispensed  with  by  their  employers. 

JIiiski7io-  frolics  are  known  to  New  Englanders,  both  as  a 
season  of  work  and  merriment.  Probably  they  were  more 
frequent  formerly  than  at  present.  They  are  "got  ?^p"  on  the 
principle,  that  "many  hands  make  light  work,"  the  farmers 
agreeirlg  to  assist  one  another,  in  what  would  otherwise  be  a 
slow  arid  tedious  process.  When  the  Indian  corn,  or  maize, 
has  been  gathered  from  the  fields  and  deposited  in  the  corn- 
house,  or  t*ie  centre-floor  of  the  barn,  where  it  is  ranged  in 
convenient  heaps  and  rows,  an  evening  is  appointed  for  the 
hushing ;  which  is  simply  stripping  the  leaves  or  husks  from 
the  full  ripened  ears,  and  is  performed  by  hand.  Those  who 
are  invited,  assemble  at  an  early  hour,  take  their  seats  in 
rows  or  circles,  at  convenient  distances,  and  attack  the  pon- 
4 


38  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

-    *  ■    ■  ■  IM  ■  —I—-  '  I    I 

UNITED    STATES. 

derous  heap  before  them.  The  ears  are  stripped  with  a  dex- 
terous hand,  and  thrown  into  a  general  heap,  while  the  husks 
are  cast  behind  the  operators.  In  tlie  mean  time,  the  sonir, 
the  jest,  and  tlie  lau:j;h  cjo  round,  wliile  the  sparkling  cider 
is  freely  circulated,  as  "the  work  goes  bravely  on."  When 
all  is  finished,  the  company  repair  to  the  house  of  their  hos- 
)iitable  host,  and  partake  of  a  bounteous  banquet  prepareil 
for  the  occasion.  This  is  not  unfrequently  followed  by  a  ball ; 
as  most  of  the  young  men  are  accompanied  by  tlieir  favorite 
lasses. 

The  sramrs  ami  mtuoipmfnts  nf  Npio  Ensrlavd.  are  similar  to 
those  of  other  sections  of  the  United  States.  The  young  men 
are  expert  in  a  variety  of  games  at  ball, — such  as  cricket, 
base,  cat,  football,  tra|)ball,  also  (]uoits,  &c.  liilliards,  cards, 
ninepins,  shovelhoard, domino,  backgammon,  bagatrlle,  check- 
ers or  drafts,  and  some  other  gauges  not  recolh^cted,  are  practi- 
sed I))'  some  classes.  Gambling  is  a  vice  but  little  known  in 
the  Eastern  States.  Concerts,  baTls,  and  several  well -selected 
museums,  are  favorite  resorts  with  many  of  the  fair  sex,  in  cities 
and  populous  towns;  while  the  village  and  country  ladies  en- 
joy their  s-puininfT  and  quilting  bevies,  singing-schools,  and 
pawn  parties,  with  at  least  an  equal  zest.  In  winter,  sleighing, 
skating,  and  "sliding  down  hill,"  are  amusements  familiar 
to  both  sexes.  Bear-baiting,  cock-lighting,  and  other  cruel 
amusements,  are  unknown. 

A  ffic  of  the  ffsticals,  df-c.  common  to  the  citizfins  of  the  Mid- 
(fie  ^faten,  may  now  be  noticed.  Among  those  nuiy  be  men- 
tioned the  Firat  (f  JriniKinj,  which  has  beiMi  oliserverl,  at  least, 
for  one  hundred  and  fifty  years.  It  is  a  festival  of  Dutch  ori- 
gin, and  of  no  little  importance  to  the  people,  not  only  as  one 
of  the  Christmas  holidays,  but  also  as  a  landmark  in  the  rug- 
ged joiuney  of  lumian  life,  or  ratlu-r  as  an  inn  or  stopping- 
place  for  iffreshments.  It  consists  in  making  presents,  pa.><s- 
ing  visits,  and  reviving  friendships  on  ^■ew  Year's  day.  In  the 
city  of  .\ew  York,  in  particular,  this  custom  is  kept  up.  It  is 
a  practice  hallowed  by  time  and  sanctioned  by  its  s.ilutary  con- 
se(iucnces.  It  brings  long-estrangt>d  friends  to  remember  and 
visit  each  other;  it  gives  life  and  gayety  to  a  dreary,  incle- 
ment season ;  it  is,  in  short,  a  social,  honest,  old-fashioiied  cus- 
tom, and  as  such  it  may  well  be  honored.  Public  business  of 
every  kind  is  suspended;  the  coiuts,  banks,  custom-house, 
post-office,  ai<'  all  closed  ;  and  few  shopkeepers  have  the  har- 
dihood to  open  their  bow-windows,  on  .\ew  Year's  day.  Debt- 
ors arc  safe  from  arrest,  can  t)oldly  meet  their  creditors,  and 
wish  them  a  liapjiy  .\ew  Ye;ir.  Even  that  mighty,  restle.ss 
engine,  the  daily  |)ress,  stan<l.s  still  to-day,  and  hangry  7//7V/- 
nuurs  must  fast  for  news,  or  receive  it  verbally  from  the  prat- 
tling tongues  of  the  fair  distributors  of  cakes  and  coffee,  with 
whom  they  exchange  the  compliments  of  the  .season.  Mnt 
though  tin;  news-press  be  silent,  .some  of  its  subordinate  agent.s 
arc  this  day  in  all  llieir  glory.     The  Carhieh,  who  has  faitii- 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  39 

HORSE-RACING. CHRISTMAS. 

fully  served  his  patrons,  "  through  summer's  heat  and  winter's 
cold,"  now  reaps  his  well-earned  reward,  in  a  harvest  of  silver. 
Each  of  his  subscribers  is  presented  with  a  printed  poetical  ad- 
dress, previously  prepared  for  the  occasion  by  some  laureat 
bard,  who  is  thus  himself  enabled  to  join  in  the  festivities  of  the 
day. 

Horse-racing-,  under  certain  restrictions,  is  tolerated  by  law 
in  the  State  of  New  York.  About  the  middle  of  May  and  Oc- 
tober, the  Union  course  on  Long  Island,  exhibits  an  animated 
scene  for  three  days,  attended  by  immen.se  crowds  of  spectators 
from  the  city  and  neighboring  villages.  There  must,  howev- 
er, be  necessarily  much  dissipation  and  a  waste  of  time  and 
money  on  such  occasions. 

Christmas,  as  kept  in  the  Middle  States,  and  as  the  closing 
festival  of  the  year,  eclipses  all  its  predecessors  in  splendor  and 
hilarity  ;  and  "Christmas-eve  in  the  cit3'of  New  York,  exhibits 
a  spectacle,  which,  to  a  stranfi:er,  must  be  highly  pleasing  and 
effective.  Whole  rows  of  confectionary  stores  and  toy  shops, 
fancifully,  and  often  splendidly  decorated  with  festoons  of 
bright  silk  drapery,  interspersed  with  flowers  and  evergreens, 
are  brilliantly  illuminated  with  gas-lights,  arranged  in  every 
shape  and  figure  that  imagination  can  devise.  During  the 
evening,  until  midnight,  these  places  are  crowded  with  visit- 
ers of  both  sexes  and  all  ages;  some,  selecting  toys  and  fruits 
for  holiday  presents ;  others,  merely  lounging  from  shop  to 
shop,  to  enjoy  the  varied  scene.  But  the  most  interesting,  and 
in  our  estimation,  the  most  delightful  sight  of  all,  is  the  happy 
and  animated  countenances  of  children,  on  this  occasion. 
Their  joy  cannot  be  restrained,  but  bursts  out  in  boisterous 
mirth,  or  beams  from  the  countenance  in  sunny  smiles,  which 
are  still  more  expressive.  If  the  weather  be  fair,  music  is 
heard  from  various  quarters,  while  changing  peals  from  the 
chiming  bells  of  old  Trinity,  fall  at  intervals  on  the  delighted 
ear. 

There  are  many  other  festivals  and  occasions  of  recreation 
observed  in  the  Middle  States,  such  as  St.  Patrick's  day,  Pas- 
che,  Krout  feasts,  and  Target  firing,  but  they  cannot  here  be 
described.  In  respect  to  public  shows  and  places  of  amuse- 
ment, all  their  cities  are  amply  supplied  with  them.  Theatres, 
concerts,  pleasure-gardens,  equestrian  exhibitions,  museums, 
zoological  gardens,  menageries  of  wild  beasts,  jugglers,  &c. 
&c.  all  of  tliem  meet  with  sufficient,  and  some  of  them  with  far 
too  much  encouragement:  while  reading  rooms,  academies  of 
the  fine  arts,  and  other  fashionable  resorts,  hold  forth  their  at- 
tractions to  professional  artists,  amateurs,  literary  loungers, 
and  bookless  authors. 

Among  the  ainnsements  of  the  people  of  the  Southern  States, 
we  find  the  Barbecue,  and  it  is  generally,  at  the  same  time,  an 
act  of  hospitality.  This  is  a  feast  in  the  open  air,  either  under 
the  shade  of  trees,  or  in  an  artificial  bower.  This  rural  ban- 
quet is  prepared  under  the  direction  and  at  the  expense  of  such 


40  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

IMTED  STATES. 

neiijhborinc;  gentlemen,  as  choose  to  unite  for  the  purpose  ; 
each  of  whom  usually  con(ribut<>s  such  edible  dainties,  as  his 
taste  or  convenience  may  suggest.  Independent  of  these  i)ic- 
nics,  however,  there  is  ahvaj^s  some  savoury  animal  roasted 
whole,  for  this  occasion,  after  the  manner  of  the  ancients. 
This  is  most  commonly  a  fat,  corn-fed  swine ;  and  from  thence 
originated  the  jihrase  of  "going  the  whole  hog."  In  dilferent 
places,  and  under  other  circumstances,  the  victim  may  be  a  fine 
fat  buck,  a  fallow-deer,  a  sheep,  or  other  animal.  Hut  to  con- 
stitute a  barbt'cue,  it  must  be  roasted  ir/iolc — not  a  bone  of  it 
must  be  broken.  These  festivals  take  place  dnring  the  sum- 
mer and  autumn  months,  when  every  luxury  that  the  season 
can  afford,  accomi)anied  with  wine,  punch,  ices,  and  other  re- 
freshments, is  provided  in  generous  abundance.  Both  sexes 
sometimes  partake  of  this  banquet,  which  is  then  enlivened  by 
a  band  of  music,  and  succeeded  l)y  a  rural  dance. 

To  Horse-racing, {he  people  of  the  South  are  more  addicted, 
than  the  citizens  of  any  other  portion  of  the  Union.  The  first 
classes  in  many  jtarts  of  the  South  engage  in  them.  Every 
where  the  accomplishment  of  horsemanship  is  highly  apprecia- 
ted, and  the  sports  of  the  turf  seem  to  be  enjoyed  with  much 
zest.  The  Virginians,  in  particular,  seem  to  i)ride  themselves 
on  their  equestrian  feats. 

Cock-Jig  tiling  is  also  indulged  in  with  avidity  at  the  South, 
but  even  more  than  horse-racing  do  we  disapprove  of  it.  It  is 
a  barbarous  amusement,  and  with  its  kindred  sjiorts  of  bull 
and  bear-baiting,  ought  to  be  discountenanced  by  every  friend 
of  humanity.  Bets  run  high  in  the  sports  both  of  horse-racing 
and  cock-fighting. 

There  are  not  many  amusements  peculiar  to  the  South. 
The  Catholics  and  Episcopalians,  of  course,  observe  such  feast 
days  as  their  lespective  churches  require,  particularly  Christ- 
mas and  New  Year's.  The  negroes,  every  winter,  enjoy  a 
week's  recreation,  including  Christinas  and  .\ew  Year's;  "du- 
ring which  they  prosecute  their  plays  and  sports  in  a  very  lu- 
dicrous and  extravagant  inarmer,  diTssing  and  niasking  in  the 
most  grotesque  style,  and  having  in  fact  a  complete  carnival. 

The  ll'fstern  iStatrs  being  peojtled  principally  by  emigrants 
from  the  sea-board,  present  few  novelties  apjilicable  to  oui-  pres- 
ent subject.  Their  customs  and  amusements  are  similar  to 
those  which  have  been  already  described.* 

The  language  spoken  in  the  United  Slates,  with  a  few  excep- 
tions, is  (jne  and  the  same.  It  is  the  genuine  English  of  the 
mother  cotinliy,  and  prevails  in  almost  every  State.  The 
French  and  Spanish  are  spoken  extensively  in  Louisiana  ;  and 
the  German  in  Pennsylvania,  and  in  a  few  places,  in  one  f)r  two 
other  States.  In  Pennsylvania,  there  are  newspapers,  alma- 
nacs, and  an  edition  of  the  State  laws,  printed  in  the  German 

*  FcativaU,  Games,  and  Amusements. 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  4i 

LANGUAGE. —  LITERATURE. 

tongue.  Even  there,  however,  the  Enghsh  is  gradually  gain- 
ing'on  the  German,  and  they  have  a  law,  that  no  one  shall  serve 
as  a  juror,  who  cannot  read  in  that  language.  Italian  is  also 
ispoken  to  a  small  extent,  but  chiefly  in  cities  by  foreigners. 
The  English,  of  course,  is  the  proper  tongue  for  the  people  of 
this  country. 

Notwithstanding  the  great  intermixture  of  men  from  differ- 
ent nations,  which  has  taken  place  in  our  country,  it  is  not  a  lit- 
tle remarkable,  that  the  English  is  spoken  here  with  as  much 
purity,  as  in  any  part  of  the  British  dominions,  and  with  a  de- 
gree of  uniformity,  which  is  not  found  elsewhere.  With  very 
fittle  variation,  the  idiom,  even  of  the  lowest  classes  of  society, 
is  the  same  in  Maine,  as  in  Georgia  ;  no  barbarous,  uncouth,  or 
unintelligible  jirovincial  jargon,  or  patois,  offends  or  distracts 
the  ear  of  the  traveller  ;  a  few  local  expressions,  or  a  slight 
difference  in  the  pronjuiciation,  or  accentuation  of  a  few  words, 
is  all  that  may  be  obsejved,  and  that  only  in  some  of  the  States, 
for  there  are  many  where  even  the  backwoods  farmers  speak 
the  English  language  with  almost  classical  purity.  We  have 
been  severely  taken  to  task  by  the  literati  of  Great  Britain, 
for  having  introduced  a  few  new  words  into  our  common  idiom ; 
such,  forlnstance,  as  the  word  lengthy,  which  seems  to  have 
given  peculiar  offence  to  the  nice  ears  of  our  transatlantic 
brethren.  This  charge,  however,  may  be  met  by  a  single  re- 
mark, viz. :  that  if  Anierica  has  adopted  a  few  words,  since 
•the  period  of  her  separation  from  Great  Britain,  England  has 
adopted  many  more.  With  what  grace  then  does  she  con- 
demn America,  when  her  sins  in  the  foregoing  pamcular  are 
so  much  more  numerous? 

Much  has  been  said  and  wriiten  respecting  the  literature  of 
this  country,  both  in  the  way  of  disparagement,  and  commen- 
dation or  defence.  It  was  certainly  not  to  have  been  expected, 
that  under  our  peculiar  circumstances,  for  many  years  from  the 
settlement  of  the  country,  such  attention  could  be  paid  to  litera- 
ture and  science,  as  in  the  older  countries  of  Europe.  The 
difficulties  of  transforming  a  wilderness  into  a  fruitful  field,  in- 
cessant manual  occupation,  and  frequent  wars  of  self-defence, 
;have  been  serious  obstacles  to  high  mental  culture.  Yet  much 
has  been  done  comparatively,  for  this  important  object.  Besides 
making  a  more  extensi».;e  and  effectual  provision  for  general  ed- 
ucation, as  we  have  already  seen,  than  has -ever  been  realized 
by  any  other  people  ;  tli-o  nation  has  already  produced  its  dis- 
tinguished scholars,  and  writers,  several  of  whom  will  bear  no 
unfavorable  comparison  with  the  first  scholars  and  writers 
abroad.  Among  the  departed,  we  may  name,  as  men  of  great 
reach  of  thought,  and  in  several  instances,  of  powerful  writing, 
Edwards,  Franklin,  Hamilton,  Ames,  Dennie,  D wight,  and 
Marshall.  Although  many  works  of  taste  and  elegant  diction, 
have  not  been  formerly  written,  yet  there  have  not  been  want- 
ing philosophical  discoveries,  and  researches  of  the  mostinter- 
4* 


fe  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

UNITED    STATES. 

estine  character,  nor  well  composed  and  even  the  most  able  po- 
litical pieces. 

It  is  certain  that  our  literature  has  made  a  very  considerabte 
progress  during  the  last  twenty  or  thirty  years,  as  is  also  the 
case  with  every  branch  of  learning.  Poets,  historians,  and  es- 
sayists, have  arisen,  of  the  iiiirhest  respectability,  most  of  whom 
are  still  living.  Several  scientific  worlts  have  appeared,  tliat 
would  confer  credit  on  the  scholars  of  any  country.  In  theol- 
ogy and  bibUcal  criticism  we  now  have  writers,  who  are  prob- 
ably superior  to  tlie  English,  and  are  exceeded  only  by  the  best 
of  Germany.  In  the  lighter  effusions  of  taste  and  fictioiv, 
several  names  are  celebrated  in  Europe,  as  well  as  in  their 
native  land.  In  lexicograjthy,  we  can  boast  a  standard  work, 
(Webster's  Dictionary.)  which,  it  is  b(>lioved,  for  extent  of 
learning,  and  accurac}'  of  tiiought,  is  suiM>rior  to  any  pul)lica- 
tion  of  the  kind  in  tlie  English  language.,  Recently,  in  periodi- 
cal literature,  America  has  made  the  most  huidai)le  efforts  ; 
and,  indeed,  this  is  a  form  in  which  the  mind  of  all  intellectual 
nations  now  cliooses  to  exhibit  much  of  its  wealth. 

"  The  periodical  ]n-oss,  embracing  newspapers,  magazines, 
and  reviews,  devoted  to  religion,  literature,  arts,  sciences,  poli- 
tics, intelligence,  and  amusements,  comprises  a  species,  or 
form  of  literature,  unknown  to  the  ancients,  and  constitutes  a 
remarkable  feature  of  the  modern  state  of  society  ;  and  it  is 
one  of  the  most  momentous  consequences  of  the  art  of  jirint- 
ing. — Before  the  American  revolution,  various  attempts  were 
made  to  establish  religious  and  literary  journals,  in  several  pla- 
ces in  this  country,  particularly  Boston,  I\ew  York,  and  Phila- 
delphia, but  no  one  of  them  obtained  a  liberal  support,  or  had 
a  long  duration.  Since  the  revolution,  and  more  especially, 
since  the  conmicncementof  the  present  century,  enterprises  of 
this  nature  have  been  greatly  multij)lied." 

In  the  United  States  there  i«  much  talent  for  imitative  arts, 
and  the  taste  is  becoming  more  refined  and  elevated.  The 
progress  made  in  statuary  and  painting,  especially  in  the  latter, 
is  gratifying  to  the  lovers  of  art ;  but  the  patronage  afforded 
to  these  efforts  of  genius,  is  inadequate  to  their  full  develop- 
ment. Several  jiainters,  destitute  of  the  advantages  enjoyed  by 
European  artists,  have,  nevertheless,  attained  toeminence,  and 
arc  adifiircd  in  Enrfipe,  as  well  as  at  home.  A  high  reputa- 
tion has  been  attained  iiy  West  and  Copley,  by  Trumbull,  Stu- 
art, and  others.  There  are  a  few  sculptors,  who  an'  not  undis- 
tinguished. There  are  in  Boston,  and  in  many  of  the  large 
towns,  many  casts  from  the  best  antifjue  sculptures,  and  some 
original  works  of  merit  are  found  in  various  parts  of  the  coun- 
try. In  coimexion  with  the  Atheneum,  at  Boston,  is  a  gallery 
to  which  the  projirietors  of  jrood  pictures  send  them,  for  a  few 
weeks  in  sunmier,  to  be  exhibited.  A  large  and  excellent  col- 
lection is  thus  made,  together  with  original  works  of  artists  of- 
fered for  premiums.     In  Philadelphia,  there  are  several  distin- 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  43 

ARTS. MANUFACTURES. 


guished  artists,  and  a  general  taste  for  the  arts ;  but  neither  in 
Philadelphia,  nor  in  New  York,  is  there  a  collection  of  paintings 
equal  to  that  at  the  Atheneum,  in  Boston.  A  degree  of  wealth, 
luxury,  and  taste,  not  yet  attained  by  the  nation  at  large,  seems 
to  be  necessary  to  the  highest  cultivation  of  the  imitative  arts. 
In  the  mechanic  arts,  few  nations,  for  the  time  being,  have 
made  so  rapid  improvement  as  the  people  of  tiie  United  States. 
They  have  signalized  their  ingenuity,  in  this  department  of  ef- 
fort, beyond  that  which  has  been  displayed  by  many  older  na- 
tions. I-n  the  invention  or  improvement  of  machinery,  genius 
and  application  of  a  high  order  have  been  exhibited.  The 
machinery  of  Whitney,  for  the  manufacturing  of  arms,  has  not, 
it  is  believed,  been  often  equalled.  .  His  machine,  the  cotton 
gin,  invented  for  cleansing  cotton  of  its  seeds,  has  indefinitely 
augmented  the  value  of  this  staple  of  the  South,  and  altered 
in  a  great  measure  the  aspect  of  the  civilized  w^orld.  The  ap- 
plication, too,  of  steam,  to  the  purposes  of  navigation,  has  im- 
mortalized the  American  Fulton. 

.  The  manufactures  of  the  United  States,  have  made  an  aston- 
isliing  progress  within  a  few  years.  Cotton,  woollen,  iron, 
glass,  and  several  other  manufactures,  employ  a  vast  amount  of 
capital,  and  are  adding  extensively  to  the  comforts  and  wealth 
of  the  nation.  This  is  particularly  the  case  with  our  fabrica-^ 
tions  of  cotton.  The  first  cotton  factory  established  in  this 
country,  was  at  Pawtucket,  Rhode  Island.  From  this  small  be- 
ginning, it  has  arisen  to  its  present  height,  and  has  become  an 
interest,  connected  essentially  with  the  welfare  of  the  commu- 
nity. 

The  manufacturing  establishments  of  tJiis  country  may  be 
divided  into  two  classes.  One  of  these  consists  of  large  com- 
panies of  moneyed  men,  who  are  satisfied  with  moderate  profits, 
especially  at  the  commencement  of  the  undertaking,  who  have 
almost  unlimited  resources  at  command,  for  the  extension  of 
Iheir  business,  and  who  are  laying  the  foundation  of  their  es- 
tablishments on  a  broad  scale,  with  a  reference  rather  to  their 
permanent  prosperity,  than  to  immediate  gain.  Lowell  is  an 
example  of  this  kind,  presenting  a  vast  combination  of  mechan- 
ical power,  arranged  in  one  whole  harmonious  system,  and  ca- 
pable of  almost  indefinite  extension,  to  which  the  whole  of  Eu- 
rope cannot  afford  a  parallel.  A  large  part  of  the  manual  la- 
bor at  Lowell,  is  performed  by  females,  between  the  ages  of 
fifteen  and  thirty,  who  have  entered  into  the  employment,  with- 
out the  slightest  thought  of  continuing  it  for  life,  like  the  Eng- 
lish operatives  ;  and  so  l^ar  are  they  from  being,  as  abroad,  a  sta- 
tionary population,  that  very  few  of  them  remain  there  for  a 
longer  period  than  three  or  four  years.  Our  manufacturing 
population,  in  general,  is  entirely  dilferent  from  that  of  foreign 
countries. 

The  second  class  of  establishments  are  formed  on  a  nar- 
rower scale,  and  with  a  more  direct  aim  at  immediate  profit. 


44  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

UNITED    STATES. 

To  the  first  class  belonir  such  factories  as  those  at  Dover,  Nor- 
wich, Nashua,  Patterson,  Wiilthaiii,  Ware,  &.c. ;  to  the  last,  a 
multitiule  of  smaller  ones  scattered  throucjhout  our  country, 
and  belonirinf];  either  to  a  sinsfle  individual,  or  more  commonly 
to  a  comjiany,  with  a  capital  of  one  or  two  hundred  tiiousand 
dollars.  Youna;  children  are  extensively  em[iioyed  in  estahlish- 
inents  of  this  kind,  and  in  many  cases,  we  doubt  not,  the  evils 
resulting  from  manufactures  in  England,  are  experienced  to  a 
limited  extent,  in  the  neighborhood  of  such  factories. 

New  Enirland  and  the  Middle  States  include  by  far  the  great- 
est portion  of  the  manufactures  of  the  Union.  Among  these, 
Pennsylvania  ranks  the  first,  and  Massachusetts  the  next.  The 
glass  manufactures  at  Pittsbuig,  in  the  former  State,  are  much 
celebrated.  The  ^lass  is  white,  clear,  and  excellent,  both  in 
texture  and  polish.  In  Massachusetts,  there  are  important  man- 
ufiictures,  not  only  at  Lowell,  as  already  mentioned,  but  at 
Waltham,  Fall  River  Village,  Taunton,  Amesbur}',  South- 
bridge,  &c.  But  we  cafinot  specify  the  places  in  the  United 
States,  where  manufactures  are  carried  on,  or  the  variety  of 
articles  fabricated.  Suffice  it  to  say,  it  is  the  most  important 
interest,  next  to  agriculture. 

77/e  iwporfancp  of  tmirersal  eilitcfitimi  is  more  t'xtcnsivcly 
felt  in  the  United  States,  than  in  any  other  country.  It  was  the 
opinion  of  the  early  settlers  generally,  and  has  since  b(>en  of 
most  of  their  descendants,  that  the  best  security  for  religious 
and  civil  lil)erty,  was  the  diffusion  of  education.  The  success 
of  our  exjieriment.  as  a  republic,  is  conceived  to  depend  on  this 
circumstance.  Accordingly,  attempts  have  been  made  to  se- 
cure the  universal  education  of  the  ptM)ple.  And  the  object 
has  in  a  great  measure  been  r(!alized.  By  the  establishment 
of  common  schools,  the  means  of  instruction  have  been  gen- 
erally extended  to  the  people.  In  certain  portions  of  the  coun- 
try, as  Nfw  EitL'hnul^  and  New  York,  all  literally  have  had 
opportunities  to  N-arn.  In  New  England,  generally  speaking, 
there  are  none  who  cannot  read  and  write.  Tlu;  cheajiness, 
and  number  of  periodicals,  give  almo.st  every  family  acces.s 
to  at  least  one  newspaper,  and  many  take  morci  than  one. 
The  people  arc  generally  as  well  infi>rmerl  of  European  events, 
as  are  the  natives  of  European  countries.  The  particular 
counties  or  districts  often  have  their  separate  paper,  and  in 
cities,  they  siu'pass  indefinitely  Uw  numbers  found  in  Europe. 

In  the  Miftflle  .S7////.>f,  the  means  of  education,  though  not  so 
well  enjoyed  as  in  New  England,  arc  by  no  means  neglecteiL 
It  is  not  common,  except  among  the  foreigners  and  their  chil- 
dren, to  find  persons  who  carmot  read  and  write.  Immense 
numtx-rs  of  books  are  i)ul)lished  in  New  York  and  Philadelphia, 
and  their  newspapers  are  circulated  through  the  whole  country. 
In  the  Soullifvn  Kpction  of  the  Union,  there  are  generally  pro- 
visions for  schools,  but  the  population  is  so  thin,  that  many 
have  less  advantages  for  education  than  at  the  North.    Among 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  45 

EDUCATION. AGRICULTURE. 

the  whites,  there  are  a  few  who  cannot  read  :  among  the  blacks 
it  is  generally  discouraged.  Some  of  the  colleges  are  well  en- 
dowed, and  have  many  scholars.  In  the  Western  States  all  is 
done  for  education,  that  well  can  be,  in  their  present  scattered 
condition.  The  importance  of  the  subject  is  duly  appreciated 
by  every  legislature,  and  the  number  of  native  inhabitants  who 
cannot  reaxi  or  write,  is  hot  large.  Colleges  and  seminaries  of 
learning,  are  rising  with  great  rapidity  in  the  West. 

Dr.  Reed,  after  having  described  some  of  our  collegiate 
'schools,  and  given  a  list  of  their  names,  remarks  to  his  corres- 
pondent, "  I  think  you  will  not  be  able  to  pass  your  eye  over 
this  list,  and  the  previous  statements,  and  connect  them  with  the 
circumstances  of  the  people,  without  being  tilled  with  surprise 
and  admiration.  Here  are  no  less  than  twenty-one  theological 
colleges,  all  of  which  have  been  instituted  since  the  year  1808  ! 
and  they  contain  853  students,  and  have  acciunulated  57,000 
volumes  I  Here  are  seventy-Jive  colleges  for  general  education, 
jnost  of  them  with  professional  departments,  and  they  have 
8.136  students  ;  foTty  of  these  have  iDeen  created  since  the  year 
■3814!  Altogether  there  are  ninety-six  colleges,  and  no  less 
than  9,032  students  !  Some  of  these  colleges  .  are  literally 
springing  up  in  the  desert,  and  are  putting  themselves  in 
readiness  to  bless  generations  that  shall  beborn  !  It  is  im- 
possible not  to  feel  that  the  influence  they  exert  must  be  ama- 
zing in  extent,  and  in  the  highest  degree  sanitory. 

The  United  States  is  essentially  an  agricidtur al  country .  By 
far  the  largest  proportion  of  the  people  are  engaged  directly  in 
agriculture.  Most  of  this  class  are  owners  of  the  soil.  The 
extent  .'Hrid  condition  of  the  country,  of  course,  invite  to  the 
above  pursuit.  Our  ample  domain,  with  immense  tracts  of 
wilderness,  and  new  lands,  demands  cultivation.  The  raw 
material  for  manufacture,  may  be  raised  to  an  unlimited  ex- 
tent. For  many  generations  to  come,  a  continually  increasing 
amount  of  products  may  be  raised,  and  raised  with  profit 
Farming,  including  tl^e  varieties  of  grazing,  tilling,  and  plant- 
ing, is, .properly  speaking,  thegreat  employment  of  the  countiy. 
Except  the  slaves  in  the  South,  there  are  comparatively  few 
mere  operatives,  or  those  who  live  only  by  daily  labor  on 
farms;  for  almost  every  laborer  possesses  at  least  a  small 
patch  of  land  of  his  owm. 

"  Every  quatity  of  soil  may  be  found  in  the  United  States, 
from  utter  barrenness,  to  the  highest  degree  of  fertility.  The 
Eastern  States  are  under  the  best  cultivation,  yet  here  the  soil 
is  comparatively  poor,  and  better  adapted  to  grazing  than  til- 
lage. The  richest  soils  are  in  the  Southern  and  Western  States. 
Generally,  the  lands  bordering  on  the  Atlantic,  are  inferior  in 
fertility  to  those  west  of  the  Apalachian  mountains."  As  adapt- 
ed, to  the  quality  of  their  soil,  the  chief  agricultural  occupa- 
tions in  the  Eastern  States,  are  grazing  and  the  dairy.  The 
Middle  States  are  principally  devoted  to  the  cultivation  of 


46  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 


UN'ITED    STATES. 


vheat  and  maize ;  the  Southern  to  that  oftnhacm,  cottnn,  susrar, 
and  ricp ;  and  the  Wostt-rn  to  maizt'  and  wheat.     Vast  quanti- 
ties of  swine  are  fattened  in  the  Western  Stales,  for  the  South- 
ern market,  and  tliis,  in  the  care  and  transportation  of  the  ar- 
ticle, t^ives  employment  to  many  peciph^  in  those  States.     The 
labor  of  slaves,  is  chietly  employed  in  the  Southern  States,  and 
in  some  of  the  Middle  and  Western.     Agriculture  as  an  art  is 
advancincr  amonir  us.     As  a  means  of  improvement  on  this 
subject  of  comparatively  modern  orii^in.   few  have  proved 
more  efficient,  and  evidently  useful,  than  A<z;ricuitin-al   Socie- 
ties'exhibitions,  or  as  they  are  commonly  called,  Cattle  Shows. 
A  large  number  of  the  people  of  tlie  United  States  are  em- 
ployed  also  in  the  mpchanic  ar/.s;  either  wholly,  or  in  part. 
Oftentimes  tlie  branches  of  mechanism  are  piirsued  in  con- 
nexion with  ap;riculture.     Either  occupation  is  followed,  after 
a  mechanic  art  or  farming  has  been  learned,  as  opportunity 
or  necessity  may  dictate.  '  Hence,  a  great  amount  of  nn^chan- 
ical  labor  is  performed  in  agricultural  districts,  and  by  agri- 
culturists, or  those  who  are  such,  the  greatest  jiart  of  the  year. 
Foreigners  who  come  to  visit  us.  are  sur})rised  to  see,  to  how 
manysorts  of  business  we  can  turn  our  hands,  or  how  readily, 
after  we  have  fitted  ourselves  for  one  profession,  we  can  take 
np  anothei-.     Tliat  form  of  the  mechanic  arts,  which  is  inclu- 
ded in  manufactures,  occupies  a  considerable  amount  of  pf)p- 
nlation,  and  it  is  continually  increasing.     The  l",asteni  and 
Middle  States  include  the  princi{)ul  })ortion  of  those  who  are 
employed  in  manufactures. 

Mercantile  and,  commercial  pm-snils'  occupy  multitudes  of 
people  in  the  United  States,  and  many  are  employed  in  navi- 
gating oiu-  rivers,  bays,  coasts,  and  above  all,  the  ocean.  The 
class  engaged  in  trade  and  commerce,  are  generally  our  rich- 
est citizens.  Wealth  has  poured  in  upon  them  apace,  of  late 
years.  It  is,  however,  only  a  small  jiroixirtion  of  the  class, 
that  succeed  in  business,  but  those  who  do,  enjoy  ihe  opulence 
of  princes. 

The  Ifarved prnfestitions  in  this  country  are  well  filled  in  gen- 
eral. That  of  medicine  is  overflowing.  The  numl)er  also 
\vho  are  employed  in  the  business  of  instruction  in  oiu"  imiver- 
sitics,  colleges,  academies,  boanling  schooLs,  select  schools, 
and  common  schools.  i«  very  consiflerable,  as  these  institu- 
tions in  the  United  States  have  multiplied  of  late  years,  beyond 
all  example. 

In  fine,  there  is  no  want  of  empNn-ment  to  the  people  of  this 
country.  There  is  some  branch  of  business  more  or  less  lu- 
crative, to  which  every  one  may  direct  his  attention.  Few 
need  to  bo  unoccupied,  from  deficiency  of  patronage,  and  \y,i\y- 
pily  fewer  still  who  can  afford  to  be  idle. 

The.  internment  of  the  United  States  is  that  of  a  confedera- 
ted repulilic.  The  administration  of  the  government  is  confi- 
tJcd  to  three  separate  de])artmcnts.     These  are  the  legislative, 


UNlVEPxSAL  TRAVELLEPx.  47 


eOVERNMENT. — POWERS  OF  CONGRESS. 


Ihe  executive,  and  the  judicial.  Thelegislative  power  is  vested 
in  a  Congress,  which  consists  of  a  Senate  and  House  of  Rep- 
resentatives. This  body  must  assemble  at  least  once  every 
year,  on  the  first  Monday  of  December,  unless  it  is  otherwise 
provided  by  law.  The  Senate  is  composed  of  two  members 
from  each  state,  and  of  course  the  present  regular  number  is 
forty-eight.  They  are  chosen  for  six  years,  but  divided  into 
classes,  so  that  one  third  of  the  Senate  is  renewed  once  in  two 
years.  No  person  can  be  elected,  who  is  not  thirty  years  of 
age,  and  who  has  not  been  a  citizen  for  nine  years.  The 
Senate  has  the  sole  power  to  try  all  impeachments,  and  tlie 
Vice-President  of  the  United  States,  is  President  of  the  Senate. 
In  this  body,  however,  he  has  only  a  casting  vote,  which  is 
given  in  case  of  an  equal  division  of  the  votes  of  the  Senators. 
In  his  absence  a  President  pro  tempore  is  chosen  by  the  Senate. 
The  House  of  Representatives  is  composed  of  members  from 
the  several  states,  chosen  by  the  people  for  the  term  of  two 
years.  No  person  is  qualified  to  be  a  member,  who  is  under 
twenty-five  years  of  age,  and  who  has  not  been  for  seven 
years  a  citizen  of  the  United  States.  The  Representatives  are 
apportioned  among  the  different  States,  according  to  popula- 
tion. The  present  rate  of  representation,  is  one  representa- 
tive for  every  47,700  persons,  computed  according  to  the  rule 
prescribed  by  the  Constitution.  By  this  rule,  three  fifths  of  the 
slaves  are  included.  The  present  regular  number,  is  240  rep- 
resentatives, and  three  delegates.  All  bills  for  raising  a  reve- 
nue, must  originate  in  the  'House  of  Representatives.  Any 
bill  passed  in  Congress,  may  become  a  law  without  the  ap- 
probation of  the  President,  if,  after  he  returns  it,  it  shall  be  re- 
considered and  approved  by  two  thirds  of  both  Houses. 

Since  the  4th  of  March,  1807,  the  compensation  of  each  mem- 
ber of  Congress  has  been  eight  dollars  a  day,  during  the  period 
of  his  attendance,  without  deduction  in  case  of  sickness;  and 
eiglit  dollars  for  every  twenty  miles  travel  in  the  usual  road, 
in  going  to  and  returning  from  the  seat  of  government.  The 
compensation  of  the  President  of  the  Senate  ;;ro  tempore,  and 
of  the  Speaker  of  the  House  of  Representatives,  is  sixteen 
dollars  a  day. 

The  Congress  has  power  to  lay  and  collect  taxes,  duties,  im- 
posts, and  excises,  to  provide  for  the  comm  on  defence,  to  borrow 
money  on  the  public  credit,  to  regulate  foreign  and  domestic 
commerce,  to  make  bankrupt  laws,  coin  money,  and  punish 
counterfeiters,  establish  post  offices  and  post  roads,  secure 
copy  rights  and  patent  rights,  establish  tribimals  inferior  to  the 
Supreme  Court,  punish  felonies  and  piracies  committed  on  the 
high  seas,  declare  war,  and  grant  letters  of  marque  and  repri- 
sal, make  rules  concerning  captures,  raise  and  support  armies, 
provide  and  maintain  a  navy,  provide  for  the  calling  out  of  the 
mihtiato  execute  the  laws  of  the  Union,  suppress  insurrections, 
and  repel  invasions,  &,c.  &c. 

The  Executive  power  is  vested  in  a  President  chosen  for  the 


43  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

UNITED  STATES. 

term  of  four  years.  Tlie  manner  of  his  election  is  the  follow- 
ing. Each  State  appoints,  in  a  way  prescribed  liy  its  Icjrisla- 
ture,  a  number  of  electors  ecjual  to  its  whole  rei)rtsentation  in 
the  Senate  and  House  of  Representatives  ;  these  meet  in  their 
respective  States,  and  vote  by  ballot  for  President  and  Vice- 
I'resident,  one  of  whom  must  not  be  an  inhabitant  of  the  sanie 
State  with  themselves.  Tiie  votes  ar(>  then  scaled  and  sent  tt) 
the  President  of  the  Senate,  who  counts  them  before  both 
houses  of  Conp;ress.  The  person  having  the  greatest  number 
of  votes  is  President,  if  such  number  be  a  majority  of  the  whole 
number  of  electors  ;  otherwise  the  House  of  Representatives 
immediately  chf)ose  a  President  from  among  tlie  three  candi- 
dates who  have  the  greatest  number  of  votes.  In  this  election, 
the  votes  are  taken  by  States.  If  no  President  is  thus  chosen, 
tlie  Vice-President  j)rifurms  the  duties  of  the  oflice.  If  a  VMce- 
President  be  not  chosen  by  a  majority  of  tiie  electors,  the  Sen- 
ate choose  one  from  the  two  highest  members  of  the  list. 

No  person  can  be  President  who  is  nf)t  a  natural  born  citi- 
zen, or  who -was  not  a  citizen  at  the  time  of  the  adoption  of 
the  Constitution,  or  who  is  not  thirty-live  years  of  age,  or  has 
not  been  a  resident  of  the  United  States  for  fourteen  years. 
The  conditions  of  being  a  Vice-President  are  the  same. 

Tiie  President  is  cnmmnnder-in-cliief  of  the  army  and  navy, 
and  ol'  Lie  militia  wlien  in  the  actual  service  ol  the  United 
States.  With  the  advice  and  consent  of  the  Senate,  he  makes 
treaties,  appoints  ambassadi>rs,  Judges  of  the  Supreme  Court, 
and  other  ollicers  of  the  United  States,  whose  a))pointment  is 
not  otherwise  pro\ided  in  the  Constitution.  He  takes  care  that 
ail  the  laws  shall  be  executed,  and  commissions  till  officers. 
The  President  and  Vice-President  may  be  removed  on  im- 
j)eachmeiit  and  conviction  of  bribery,  treason,  or  other  high 
crimes  and  misdemeanors. 

The  Judicial  power  of  tlie  United  States  is  vested  in  one 
supreme  court,  and  in  such  inferior  courts  as  Congress  may, 
from  time  to  time,  establish.  The  present  judicial  establish- 
ment of  the  United  Stales,  consists  of  a  supreme  court,  thirty- 
one  district  courts,  and  seven  circuit  courts,  which  are  thus 
organized  :  the  Supreme  Court  is  composed  of  one  chief-jus- 
tice and  six  associate  justices,  who  hold  a  court  in  the  city  of 
Washington,  ani.uaily  •,  besides  which,  each  of  these  justices 
attends  in  a  certain  circuit,  comprising  two  or  more  districts 
a])propriated  to  each,  and,  togetlier  with  thejudge  of  the  dis- 
tnct,  composes  a  circuit  com t,  which  is  held  in  each  district 
of  the  circuit.  The  district  courts  are?  held  resjiectively,  by 
the  district  judges  alone.  Each  State  is  one  district,  for  the 
purpose  of  holding  district  and  circuit  courts  therein,  with  the 
exce|)tif)n  of  New  York,  Pennsylvania,  Virginia,  Tenne.s.see, 
Louisiana,  and  Alabama,  each  of  which  is  divided  into  two 
districts.  The  judges  hold  their  offices  during  good  behavior 
and  can  be  removed  only  on  impeachment. 


Fourth  nf  July.  I*.   37. 


Hushing  Frolic.         P.  37. 


UNIVERSAL  TnAVELLEK.  49 

SUPPORT  OP  RELIGION. — RELIGIOUS  DENOMINATIONS. 


In  all  the  States  of  the  Union,  the  support  of  religion,  which 
IS  that  of  the  holy  scriptures,  is  now  left  entirely  to  the  volun- 
tary choice  and  good  will  of  the  people.  No  person  is  com- 
pelled to  join,  or  be  classed  with,  or  associated  to  any  rehgious 
communion,  church,  or  congregation,  or  (without  having  pre- 
viously given  his  consent)  to  pay  for  the  support  of  ministers 
of  religion,  for  the  maintenance  of  public  worship,  or  for  the 
building  or  repairing  of  churches. 

In  some  parts  of'^the  country,  especially  in  the  new  settle- 
ments, and  in  districts  in  which  the  inhabitants  are  much  scat- 
tered, and  the  stateof  society  and  education  is  backward,  there 
1s  a  great  want  of  religious  instruction.  Iif  these  parts,  there 
are  few  regular  or  settled  clergymen,  and  the  ministers  who 
are  found  here,  except  occasional  itinerant  preachers,  are,  a 
great  part  of  them  at  least,  incompetent,  or  ill-qualified  for  their 
duties,  and  they  receive  but  little  compensation;  but  the  cities, 
and  also  those  portions  of  the  country,  in  which  the  state  of 
society  is  most  advanced,  are  as  well  supplied  with  ministers 
and  with  the  means  of  religion,  as  perhaps  any  part  of  Chris- 
tendom ;  and  the  clergy  of  the  several  denominations  general- 
ly receive  a  competent  support.  Considering  the  regenerated 
character  of  the  ministry,  they  are  better  supplied  than  even 
in  Great  Britain.  In  these  portions  of  the  country,  religion 
doubtless  exerts  as  much  influence  as  in  any  part  of  the  world, 
as  is  indicated  by  the  voluntary  support  which  is  given  to  it, 
the  number  of  communicants,  the  general  observance  of  the 
Sabbath,  the  habit  of  attending  public  worship,  and  the  libe- 
rality and  zeal  manifested  in  promoting  objects  of  religious 
and  benevolent  enterprise,  as  bible  societies,  missionary  socie- 
ties, Sunday  schools,  and  the  like. 

The  means  for  the  support  of  the  ministers  of  the  several 
denominations  are  obtained  by  subscription,  contribution, 
rents  of  pews,  from  the  income  of  funds,  which  are  possessed 
"by  many  churches  and  congregations,  and  taxes  or  assess- 
ments upon  the  members  of  religious  societies  or  congrega- 
tions, apportioned  according  to  property.  The  denomina- 
tions whose  ministers  are  supposed  to  be  best  supported,  are 
the  Congregationalists,  including  the  Unitarians,  the  several 
divisions  of  the  Presbyterians,  and  the  Episcopalians.  The 
ministers  of  the  Baptist  denomination,  as  well  as  those  of  some 
others,  have  a  very  competent  support  in  the  cities  and  large 
towns.  The  Methodist  ministry  has  a  support  of  a  tolerably 
efficient  kind,  although  theire  are  somepecuUarities  attending 
the  method. 

The  principal  religious  denominations  in  this  conntry,  are, 
1.  Congregation-alists ;  2.  Presbyterians;  3.  Reformed  Dutch 
Church;  4.  Associate  Presbyterian  Church  ;  5.  Associate  Re- 
formed Church  ;  6.  Cumberland  Presbyterian  ;  7.  German  Re- 
formed Church  ;  8.  Baptists  ;  9.  Methodist  Episcopal  Church; 
10.  Methodist  Protestants ;  11.  Protestant  Episcopal  Church; 
12.  Roman  Catholic  Church  ;  13.  Evangelical  Lutheran 
5 


50  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

UJJjITED  STATES. 

Church  ;  14.  Church  of  the  United  Brethren;  15.  Unitarians; 
16.  UniversaUsts  ;  17.  New  Jerusalem  Cliurch  ;  18.  Friends  ; 
19.  Shakers;  20.  Jews.  Tiiese  are  not  Iiere  mentii)neil  in  the 
order  of  their  importance  or  numbers,  and  some  few  sects  not 
mentioned  above,  may  perhaps  be  found  in  the  country. 


2.  INDIAN  TRIBES. 


In  the  preceding  survey  of  the  United  States,  we  have  de- 
tained our  fellow  travellers  longer  than  we  orii^inally  design- 
ed ;  but  we  trust  that  it  has  been  neither  unjileasant,  nor  un- 
profitable. It  is  befitting  the  traveller  to  become  somewhat 
minutely  acfjuainted  with  his  own  country,  before  attempting 
to  acquire  a  knowledge  pf  others.  With  "this  information,  he 
will  be  better  able  to  appreciate  the  manners  and  customs,  the 
institutions,  law.s,  government,  &c.,  which  he  may  observe  in 
other  lands. 

Other  portions  of  our  territory  remain  to  be  surveyed, — 
tliose  on  which  neither  civilization,  science,  nor  religion  have 
yet  shed  their  light.  Numerous  Ahon'ginal  Tribes  arc  scatter- 
ed over  the  immense  regions  of  the  west;  and,  to  some  of  our 
fellow  travellers,  a  prolonged  visit  among  them  might  be  con- 
sidered even  more  desirable  than  the  far  distant  voyages, 
which  we  ultimately  contemplate.  Information,  however,  re- 
specting the  Indians  of  the  United  States  abounds  ;  and,  hence, 
less  minuteness  may,  with  propriety,  be  ol)served  in  regard  to 
them.  Besides,  an  extended  account  of  the  several  tribes 
would  occupy  the  whole  time,  which  we  propose  to  devote  to 
our  peregrinations,  and  would  till  the  volume,  which  is  to  re- 
cord the  results  of  our  travels.  We  shall,  therefore,  re&trict 
ourselves  to  a  few  general  remarks  upon  the  Indians,  as  a  race. 

The  Indians  in  the  United  Stales  are  separated  into  several 
great  familiis,  and  these  into  an  unascertained  rumiber  ofdis- 
tinct  tri/jia.  The  Ahjonquin  or  Cliijijiitraij  family,  is  one,  which 
Is  most  widely  diffused.  To  this  belong  the  New  England 
tribes,  the  Uelawares,  the  Iroquois,  or  Six  Nations,  tin-  Knis- 
teneaux,  or  Grees,  Sacs,  F(jxcs,  dc.  Anoth'r  great  Indian 
race  is  the  Sinn.r,  or  D/irnlah.  Among  the  i)rauches  of  tlii.s 
finiily  an^  the  Winnebagoes,  Otoes,  loways,  Missouries,  Oma- 
whaws,  Karizas,  Osages,  and  Assinboius.  These  last  arc 
sometimes  called  Stont^  Indians.  All  ther;e  tri!»es  spc^ak  dia- 
lects of  the  Dacotah  language,  which  radically  differs  from  the 
Algonfjuin. 

In  personal  appearanm  there  is  some  variety  among  the  In- 
dians. In  general,  however,  tliry  have  a  bronze,  or  copper 
color — coajse,  straight,  black  hair,  high  cheek  bones,  sunken 
eyes,  and  erect  form  ;  the  forehead  is  usually  short — the  coun- 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  51 


INDIAN  TRIBES. — FOOD. 


tenance  wide,  nostrils  open,  and  lips  thick.  It  was  formerly 
said,  that  the  Indians  were  destitute  of  beards  ;  bat  tliis  is  not 
natural,  it  having  been  well  ascertained  that  they  take  great 
pains  to  pluck  tiie  beard  bytiie  roots,  soon  after  it  makes  its 
appearance.  In  respect  to  stature,  there  is  considerable  dif- 
ference among  ditferent  tribes. 

The  Indians  in  New  England  are  reduced  to  an  inconsider- 
able number.  New  York  has  within  her  territory  the  remains 
of  a  celebrated  confederacy,  known  by  the  name  of  the  Six 
Nations.  These,  together  with  the  remnants  of  a  few  other 
tribes,  amount  to  about  five  thousand.  Measures  are  in  pro- 
gress by  the  general  government,  for  the  removal  of  the  seve- 
ral tribes  which  occupy  territories  at  the  South  and  West,  to 
lands  west  of  the  Mi-ssissijipi.  Several  tribes  have  already 
been  removed  to  their  new  location.  The  Cherokees,  and 
Creeks,  however,  still  remain  in  Georgia  and  the  adjacent  parts, 
and  the  Seminoles  continue  to  possess  their  lands  in  Florida, 
although  some  time  since  sold  to  tlie  United  States,  under  an 
agreement  that  they  should  be  removed,  at  the  expense  of  the 
government.*  The  principal  tribes  of  Indians,  however,  are 
now  to  be  found  west  of  the  Mississippi.  Th.e  white  popula- 
tion is  gradually  enci'oaching  upon  them,  and  at  no  distant  day, 
these  ancient  possessors  of  the  American  soil  will  either  be 
known  no  more,  or  be  reduced  to  a  few  inconsiderable  rem- 
nants. 

The  food  of  such  tribes  as  inhabit  the  interior  of  the  country, 
consists,  in  general,  of  the  flesh  of  such  animals  as  are  taken 
in  the  chase.  Among  most  tribes,  this  is  either  roasted  or 
boiled,  more  generally  the  former;  but  frequently  they  are 
obliged  to  consume  their  food  raw.  In  times  of  scarcity,  they 
do  not  hesitate  to  eat  even  the  entrails  of  the  animals  which 
they  have  killed.  Resort  is  had  also  to  berries  and  roots. 
Among  some  tribes,  corn,  potatoes,  jnunjikins,  squashes,  beans, 
&c.  are  extensively  cultivated.  This  last  remark  applies 
chiefly  to  such  tribes  as  have  had  intercourse  with  the  whites. 
Corn,  however,  was  raised  in  considerable  quantities  by  the 
Indians  when  the  English  first  settled  in  the  country.  Tribes 
which  live  in  the  vicinity  of  lakes  and  ponds,  subsist,  in  part, 
upon  fish.  As  savages  have  no  vessels  which  will  admit  of  ex- 
posure to  fire,  they  make  use  of  large  upright  vessels  in  which 
to  boil  their  food,  composed  of  birch-rind.  Stones  red  hot  are 
put  into  the  water,  which  soon  occasion  it  to  boil,  and  by  con- 
tinuing the  process,  the  cooking  is  completed.  Most  of  the 
tribes  being  dependant  upon  accident  for  food,  often  suffer  from 


*  The  time  fixed  by  treaty  for  the  removal  of  the  Seminoles  having  ar- 
rived, they  have  refused  to  go  ;  and,  rismg  by  general  concert  against  the 
vv'hite  population,  are  at  this  time  (1836)  carrying  on  a  most  sanguinary  war- 
fare against  them.  The  prompt  and  decisive  interference  of  the  government 
will  doubtless  soon  give  a  check  to  their  ravages ;  but  as  the  Indians  have  de- 
cided that  they  prefer  extermination  to  removal,  it  is  highly  probable  that  the 
Seminoles  will  soon  live  only  in  historical  record. 


52  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

INPIAN    TKIBE3. 


want,  and  many  die  yearly  from  famine.    In  times  of  scarcity, 
the  aged  and  helpless  are  suffered  to  perish. 

T'l'irir  articles  nfilrrs^  are  generdUy  composed  of  the  nkins  and 
/Kr.s- of  animals  taken  in  the  chase.  They  consist  of  mocca- 
sins, leggins,  trousers,  «fcc.  or  of  such  articles  as  they  may 
have  obtained  from  the  Enf:!;li.sh,  iii  exchange  for  their  furs. 
They  oden  fasten  about  a  half  a  yard  of  broadcloth,  if  by  any 
means  they  iiave  obtained  it,  by  a  girdle  round  their  waists, 
which  reaches  to  the  middle  of  the  thigh  ;  and  ttiey  throw  a 
blanket  loosely  over  their  shoukK>rs,  fastening  or  holding  it  to- 
gether by  the  upper  corners.  Such  as  wear  shirts,  have  the 
collars  and  wristbands  always  open.  But  all  these  coverings 
are  laid  aside  at  their  dances.  Tliose  who  haveno  intercourse 
with  Europeans,  use  skins  instead  of  cloth,  generally  in  a  spa- 
ring' manner.  Few  ha\e  aiiy  covering  for  their  thi^dis,  but  they 
wear  stockings  of  cloth,  or  skins,  with  a  loose  piece,  two  or 
three  inches  broad,  hanu^inj;  down  the  outside  of  the  leg;  and  va- 
riously ornamented.  Their  shoes  made  of  the  skin  ol'the  deer, 
elk,  or  buffalo,  are  very  convenient  for  walking.  The  wonierv 
wear  a  covering  from  the  neck  to  the  knees,  sometimes  of  lin- 
en, sometimes  of  skin,  or  leather,  which  covers  the  body,  but 
not  the  arms.  Tlieir  short  pL-tticoats  are  also  of  the  same  ma- 
terials ;  and  they  wear  shoes  and  stockings,  ornamented  simi- 
larly with  those  of  tiie  men.  Both  sexes  take  much  trouble  in 
decorating  their  h;iir  with  plumes  of  feathers,  porcui)ine  quills, 
and  other  fanciful  articles.  The  men  paint  their  fices  red  or 
black,  and  have  various  figures  descriy)ed  on  different  parts  of 
their  bodies  ;  but  these  are  not  the  same,  when  they  go  to  war, 
as  at  other  times.  Some  make  long  slits  in  their  ears,  and 
stretch  the  lobes,  by  nuMUs  of  weights,  till  they  nearly  touch 
the  shoulders,  which  is  deemed  very  becoming.  Others  pierce 
the  cartilage  of  the  nose,  and  suspend  ornaments  from  it.  The 
women  paint  their  fiices  in  patches,  frequently  placing  one 
patoh  by  each  ear,  and  sometimes  a  third  on  their  foreheads. 
They  also  adopt  the  ornaments  of  the  other  sex.  Most  tribes 
shavo  tilt;  hair  from  tln^r  heads,  with  the  exception  of  a  tuft  or 
plat  passing  from  the  forehead  to  the  back  of  the  head.  The 
Chippeways,  however,  wear  their  hair  in  full,  and  frenuentlv 
dubbed.  ^ 

The  hahitalidns  nf  l/if'si'  jifnj)lf  consist  of  a  few  poles  stuck  in 
the  ground,  fastened  together  at  the  foji,  and  covered  with 
skins  ;  with  an  f)pemng  in  the  side  for  an  entrance,  and  a  small 
hole  at  the  top  lor  the  egress  of  suKjke.  Or,  when  they  travel, 
they  erect  a  hut  with  a  lew  branches  of  trees  or  shrubs,  cover- 
ed with  skins  or  leaves.  Skins  spread  on  thr^  ground  consti- 
tute their  beds  ;  and  when  the  hut  is  too  small  for  the  whole 
family  to  repose  thus,  a  frame  is  made  of  a  few  sticks,  three  or 
four  leet  high,  upon  which  the  children  are  placed  over  the 
adults.     Some  of  the  Indian  lodijes  or  habitations  are  of  a  coni- 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  53 

AMUSEMENTS. — SUPERSTITIONS, 


cal  shape,  and  are  covered  chiefly  with  skins.  Among  other 
tribes,  as  the  Chippeways,  the  lodges  are  of  an  oblong  shape, 
and  in  addition  to  skins,  are  covered  with  mats,  barks,  &c. 

The  amusements  of  the  Indians  consist  in  running,  leaping, 
wrestling,  shooting,  dancing,  &c.  This  last  .is  a  favorite  exer- 
cise among  all  the  tribes,  and  scarcely  ever  do  they  assemble 
on  any  festive  occasion,  but  this  makes  a  part  of  their  enter- 
tainment. Their  dances  are  of  various  kinds,  among  which 
are  the  marriage  dance,  pipe  dance,  war  dance,  discovery 
dance,  &c.  This  last  kind  of  dance,  was  performed  in  the 
year  1821,  opposite  the  house  of  the  President  of  the  United 
States,  by  a  party  of  Indians,  consisting  of  Panis,  Ottas,  and 
Kansas.  The  war  dance  is  accompanied  with  violent  gesticu- 
lations and  contortions,  accompanied  with  screams  and  yells, 
which  none  but  exasperated  savages  could  utter. 

Like  all  other  savages^  the  North  American  Indians  are  ex- 
tremely superstitious,  paying  great  attention  to  dreams  and 
omens  of  various  kinds.  They  have  also  numerous  magicians 
and  soothsayers,  upon  whose  predictions  they  place  the  utmost 
reliance,  in  almost  every  thing  that  relates  to  the  success  of 
their  undertakings.  They  believe  in  the  existence  of  good  and 
evil  genii,  from  whom  all  the  hajipiness  or  misery  of  human 
life  proceed.  They  invoke  the  god  of  battle,  before  they  go 
out  to  war;  and  some  of  the  tribes  worship  the  celestial  lumi- 
naries. But  religion  is  not  their  prevailing  characteristic;  and, 
except  when  they  have  some  urgent  occasion  for  the  assist- 
ance of  their  gods,  they  pay  them  little  or  no  attention.  Vari- 
ous stories  are  related  by  different  tribes,  to  account  for  the 
creation  of  the  world.  The  following  answer  was  made  to 
Mr.  M'Kenney,  by  a  Chippeway  chief,  to  whom,  through  an 
intrepreter,  he  had  put  the  question,  "  who  made  the  world?" 

The  chief  replied,  "It  was  made  by  Nanibojou.  Nanibojou 
and  two  wolves  went  out  hunting.  After  the  first  day's  hunt, 
one  of  the  wolves  parted,  and  went  to  the  left,  and  the  other 
continued  with  Nanibojou,  and  Nanibojou  adopted  him  as  his 
son.  Nanibojou,  knowing  that  there  were  devils  in  the  lake,  he 
and  his  son  went  to  war  with  them,  and  destroyed  all  the  dev- 
ils that  lived  in  one  lake,  then  pursued  their  way  hunting,  but 
every  deer  the  wolf  would  start  and  give  chase  to,  would  run 
into  another  of  the  lakes.  One  day,  the  wolf  chased  a  deer. 
It  ran  upon  the  ice  in  the  lake;  and  the  wolf  pursued  it — the 
ice  broke  in  at  the  moment,  when  the  wolf  had  caught  the 
deer,  and  both  fell  in.  The  devils  caught  both  the  wolf  and 
the  deer,  and  devoured  them.  Then  Nanibojou  went  up  and 
down  the  lake  shore  crying ;  when  a  loon  in  the  lake,  heard 
Nanibojou  crying,  and  called  to  him  to  know  what  he  was  cry- 
ing about.  Nanibojou  answered,  that  he  had  lost  his  son  in 
the  lake;  and  the  loon  replied,  the  devils  have  eaten  him;  and 
if  he  wanted  to  see  the  devils,  he  might  by  going  to  a  certain 
5* 


54  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

INDIAN   TRIBES. 


place,  as  the  devils  would  come  out  there  to  sun  themselves. 
Nanibojou  went  accordingly,  and  saw  devils  in  all  manner  of 
forms;  in  the  form  of  snakes,  bears,  and  other  things;  and 
when  the  two  lioad  devils  got  out  on  the  bank,  they  saw  some- 
thing of  uncommon  appearance,  and  which  they  had  not  seen 
before,  and  halting,  tl>ey  sent  a  very  large  devil,  in  the  form  of 
a  snake,  to  see  what  this  strange  sight  was.  Nanibojou,  see- 
ing the  devil  coming,  assumed  the  appearance  of  a  stump. 
The  devil  coming  up,  wrapped  himself  round  it,  and  drew 
upon  it  with  all  his  strength,  and  squeezed  so  hard,  tliat  Nanibo- 
jou was  on  the  point  of  crj'ing  out,  when  the  devil  uncoiled  hijn- 
self  a  little,  and  then  wound  round  him  again,  and  drew,  if  pos- 
sible, harder  than  he  did  before,  and  so  severe  did  Nanibojou 
feel  the  pressure  to  be,  that  he  was  just  about  crying  out,  when 
the  devil  relaxed  his  hold,  and  returned  to  his  companions, 
and  told  them  it  was  nothing  but  a  stump.  But  the  devils  were 
not  satisfied — so  they  sent  another  in  the  shape  of  a  bear,  to  try 
what  he  could  make  of  it.  The  bear  came  up  to  Nanibojou, 
and  hugged  him,  and  bit  him,  and  clawed  him — and  so  severe 
was  the  bear  on  him,  that  he  was,  as  before,  on  the  point  of 
crying  out,  when,  as  before,  the  bear  relaxed  his  hold,  and  fore- 
bore  to  bite  and  to  scratch.  He,  however,  repeated  his  attacks, 
and  it  was  with  the  greatest  difficulty  Nanibojou  could  forbear 
to  cry  out.  The  bear  returned  and  told  the  devils  it  was  noth- 
ing but  a  stump.  Whereupon  the  devils  all  went  to  sleep  in 
the  sun  as  the  snakes  do,  when  .Nanibojou,  on  being  convinced 
that  they  were  all  asleep,  shot  with  arrows  the  two  great  devils. 
When  the  rest  of  the  devils  awoke,  and  found  their  principal 
devils  had  been  killed,  they  all  pin-sued  Nanibojou  with  a  great 
flood  of  water.  Nanibojou  hearing  it  coming,  fled  before  it, 
and  ran  from  hill  to  hill,  until  he  got  to  the  top  of  the  highest 
mountains,  and  there  climbed  the  highest  pine  tree  he  could  see. 
Rut  the  waters  followed  him  to  the  top  of  this  tree,  when  he 
prayed  that  the  tree  might  grow.  It  did  grow,  but  the  waters 
rose  still  hifjfier.  He  prayed  again,  being  almost  covered  with 
water,  it  being  now  almost  up  to  his  chin.  He  prayed  a  third 
time,  but  the  tree  grew  only  a  little.  Then  looking  round  liim 
upon  the  waters,  he  saw  a  number  of  animals  swinmiing  in  dif- 
ferent directions,  and  among.st  them  a  beaver,  an  otter,  and  a 
muskrat  He  callecl  them  brothers,  and  said,  come  to  me. 
We  must  have  som*^  earth,  or  we  shall  all  die.  They  came — 
and  the  beaver  went  first  afler  some  earth,  by  diving  into  the 
waters,  but  drowned  before  he  reached  the  bottom.  Next,  the 
otter  went  down— he  got  within  sight  of  land,  but  lost  his 
senses  before  he  got  a  bite  of  it.  Thentiie  muskrat  went  flown, 
and  got  to  the  bottom,  and  just  as  he  got  a  bite  of  it,  he  lost  his 
senses,  anfl  floated  up  to  the  top  of  the  water.  Nanibojou  had 
them  all  brought  to  him,  when  he  examined  all  their  claws,  be- 
fpnning  with  the  heaver,  but  fcnind  no  earth  in  any  of  them, 
except  a  little  in  the  muskrat.  He  took  it  in  his  hand,  and 
rubbed  it,  and  held  it  up  to  the  sun  until  it  dried,  then  he  blew 
it  all  round  him  over  the  water,  and  dry  land  appeared 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  55 

STORY  OF  NANIBOJOU. — GOVERNMENT, 

"I  asked  who  made  the  earth  the  muskrat  found?"  He 
answered,  he  did  not  know.  They  knew  nothing  beyond  the 
time  Nanibojou  made  the  earth.  I  asked  him  where  Nanibojou 
was  now?  He  answered,  "somewhere  towards  the  rising 
sun."  What  is  he  like? — is  he  a  man  in  his  appearance,  or 
what  does  he  resemble?  He  answered,  "he  is  like  a  man." 
Was  he  ever  married?  "Yes — but  he  has  had  no  wife  of 
late."  I  then  asked  him  who  made  Nanibojou?  He  said  he 
was  a  twin,  and  was  born  of  a  woman  who  had  never  had  a 
husband;  and  who,  on  giving  Nanibojou  and  his  tvvin  brother 
life,  vanished,  and  had  never  been  seen  since,  no7'  has  Nanibo- 
jotc's  brother.'''''*' 

Governnipnt  among  the  Indians  is  of  the  most  simple  kind. 
Each  tribe  has  its  chief;  but  his  power  is  rather  persuasive 
than  coercive;  he  is  reverenced  as  a  father,  not  feared  as  a 
monarch.  Some  of  the  principal  men  of  the  tribe,  such  as  have 
distinguished  themselves  in  the  chase,  or  in  war,  act  as  his 
coimsellors.  All  matters  of  importance,  relating  to  peace  and 
war,  hunting  or  fishing,  are  solemnly  discussed  in  council. 
When  hostilities  have  been  determined  on  with  any  neighbor- 
ing tribe,  the  war  kettle  is  put  on  the  lire,  as  an  emblem  that 
they  are  going  out  to  devour  their  enemies;  the  hatchet,  the 
symbol  of  action,  is  sent  to  all  their  allies;  the  war  dances  begin; 
and  the  war  song,  or  war-whoop,  resounds  in  all  parts.  The 
warriors  are  all  volunteers,  the  chief  having  no  authority  to 
compel  any  man  to  go  out  to  battle,  nor,  indeed,  to  do  other- 
wise than  he  likes ;  and  their  prime  qualities  are  those  of  giv- 
ing and  avoiding  surprise,  to  accomplish  which,  they  sustain 
incredible  fatigue  and  hardships.  At  the  close  of  the  war,  the 
conquerors  return  with  their  captives,  who  are  distributed 
among  such  families  as  have  lost  one  or  more  members  in  the 
expedition.  If  those  to  whom  a  captive  is  thus  presented,  think 
well  to  accept  him,  he  is  adopted,  and  ever  after  considered  as 
one  of  the  family;  but  if  they  reject  him,  he  is  put  to  death, 
under  the  most  excruciating  tortures  that  savage  barbarity  can 
devise;  and  his  mangled  carcass,  among  some  tribes,  serves 
for  a  feast  at  the  conclusion  of  the  horrid  rites.  Firmness  and 
self-possession,  mark  the  conduct  of  the  Indian  while  suffering 
under  the  insults  and  cruelties  of  his  victorious  enemies;  not  a 
groan,  nor  a  distortion  of  countenance  escapes  him;  he  re- 
counts his  own  exploits,  tells  them  what  cruelties  he  has  in- 
flicted upon  their  countrymen  ;  and  even  reproaches  them 
with  ignorance  in  the  art  of  tormenting.     The  Indians,  how- 

*  McKenney's  Tour  to  the  Lakes.  The  author  here  recited,  observes  in  re- 
lation to  the  above  story,  that  no  one  can  read  it,  "without  perceiving  the 
analogy  l)etween  it,  and  the  Noatic  flood.  In  the  account  of  that  flood,  we 
read,  the  (ops  of  the  highest  vioiintains  were  covered,'  and,  this  is  the  sub- 
stance of  this  tradition.  Nor  is  the  mystery  of  the  incarnation  lost  sight  of 
in  the  tradition  of  tlie  birth  of  Nanibojou.  He  was  the  son  of  a  woman,  who 
never  had  a  husband.  And  may  not  his  invisible,  and  twin  brother,  refer  to 
the  Holy  Spirit?" 


56  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 


INDIAN  TRIBES. 


ever,  are  not  destitute  of  the  kind  feelin.irs,  wliicli  belonij  to  our 
nature.  Hospitality  is  ever  to  be  found  in  their  huts  and  tents. 
If  a  stranGjor  refuses  to  partako  of  the  meal  which  they  have 
provided  for  him,  they  are  oflcnded.  Female  captives  are 
always  treated  with  a  peculiar  depjree  of  delicacy.  The  men 
seldom  express  deep  emotion,  but  the  women,  on  the  loss  of 
friends,  crive  vent  to  every  expression  of  grief,  beating  their 
breasts,  tearin;;  their  hair,  ttc. 

Nor  is  the  savage  warrior  always  able  to  repress  the  gentler 
feelings  of  the  soul.  The  author  was  once  himself  a  witness 
to  a  sceno,  which  might  well  emi)loy  the  pencil  of  a  West,  or  a 

Trumbull.     In  tiic  year ,  a  deputation  from  some  of  the 

tribes  west  of  the  Mississippi,  visited  the  seat  of  government, 
and  several  of  the  principal  cities  in  the  United  States.  Du- 
rinsT  the  journey,  th(>v  stopped  at  an  inn,  in  the  city  of  Hart- 
ford, Connecticut.  The  circumstance  was  soon  rumored 
abroad,  and  not  a  few  of  the  citizens  hurried  to  the  spot,  to 
catch  a  view  of  these  sons  of  the  West.  The  chiefs  were 
dressed  in  the  costumes  of  their  respective  tribes.  They 
were  seated  in  a  spacious  room,  and  for  a  time  bore  the 
gaze  of  the  increasing  throng  with  kindness  and  good   will. 

But,  at  length,  wearied  witli  the  unsatisfied  curiosity  of  the 
citizi^ns,  one  of  their  number,  distinguished  for  his  noble  form 
and  lofty  port,  rose,  and  slmvly  advancing  to  a  table,  took 
from  it  an  English  sword,  and  turning  towards  the  spectators, 
waved  it  slowly  back  and  forth— his  eyes  kindling  as  he  con- 
tinued to  maintain  his  dignified  posture.  He  uttered  not  a 
sylhilile,  nor  were  his  lips  seen  to  move;  the  action  was  suf- 
ficient, and  the  throng,  struck  with  awe,  without  a  murmur,  or 
a  pause,  retired. 

The  author  himself  was  only  a  boy,  and  happening  to  occu- 
py a  corner  of  the  room,  was  allowed,  with  a  companirm  or 
two,  to  remain.  The  sword  was  soon  again  on  the  table,  the 
warrior  returned  to  his  .seat,  and  in  a  few  moments  the  coun- 
tenance whicli  had  hern  lighted  with  a  martial  fire,  assumed 
it-s  usual  calm  expression. 

Shortly  alter,  a  mother  with  her  child,  of  some  three  or  four 
years  of  age,  made  her  ajipearance  at  the  door,  leading  into 
an  adjoining  room.  The  child  peeping  from  behind  its 
motlicr's  gown,  eyed  the  savage  chiefs  with  eager,  yet  dis- 
trustful curiosity,  while  the  niother  gently  urged  it  forward,  tc 
take  a  better  view.  The  action  caught  the  attention  of  sev- 
eral of  the  chiefs,  and  among  them  the  warrior  already 
named.  The  latter  exteiuhd  his  hand,  and  beckoned  it  to  ap- 
proach ;  but  it  held  back,  and  in  the  folds  of  it-s  lurking  plac« 
hid  its  head. 

There  was  magic  in  the  act  of  the  child,  and  it  seemed  to 
render  the  warrior  still  more  anxious  to  see  it.  At  length,  ta- 
king it  in  her  arms,  the  mother  apjiroached  the  spot  where  the 
savage  was  .seated,  and  placed  her  child  before  him.  He  in- 
stantly, but  gently,  extended  his  brawny  arm,  and  laid  his  hand 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  57 

STORY  OF  A  WESTERN  CHIEF. 

upon  tlie  child's  head.  At  the  same  moment,  he  cast  a  most 
expressive  look  towards  the  mother,  and  raising  his  hand, 
pointed  to  the  West,  and  melled  into  tears. 

The-chief  was  a  father,  as  well  as  a  warrior  ;  and  if  by  vir- 
tue of  this  latter  character,  he  was  as  imbendinj;-  as  the  oak  on 
the  mountain's  brow — by  virtue  of  the  former,  he  was  as  ten- 
der and  yielding  as  the  willow  by  the  water-course.  Here  was 
delightful  proof,  that  within  that  savage  tabernacle,  there  was  a 
soul  alive  to  all  the  tender  sensibilities  of  cmr  nature.  The 
truth  is,  that  injustice  has  been  done  to  the  savage  character. 
They  are  savage  and  cruel,  for  the  subduing  influence  of  the 
gospel  has  never  been  exerted  upon  them.  They  are  illiterate 
and  deijraded,  because  the  light  of  science,  the  means  of  in- 
struction,  they  have  never  enjoyed.  With  the  same  advanta- 
ges whicli  Newton  and  Galileo  enjoyed,  they  might  have  pro- 
ved as  eminent  in  astronomical  discovery  ;  or  as  distinguished 
in  philosophy  as  were  Bacon  and  Locke.  With  all  their  dis- 
advantages, what  nation  boast  of  nobler  warrioi"s,  or  of  more 
eloquent  orators  ?  For  coiu'age  or  address  in  war,  Philip  and 
Tecumseh  would  compare  with  Napoleon  or  Wellington ; 
Corn  Planter  and  Red  Jacket,  woul-d  appear  little  inferior  in 
true  eloquence  to  Cicero  or  Demosthenes.  Over  their  rude 
burial  places,  we  might  exclaim,  in  the  beautifid  language  of 
the  poet,  and  with  as  much  propriety  as  when  standing  by  the 
graves  of  civilized  men  i — 

Perhaps  in  this  neglected  spot  is  laid 

Some  heart  once  pre.^nant  with  celestial  fire; 

Hands  ihat  the  rod  of  empire  might  have  swayed, 
Or  wak'd  to  ecstasy  the  living  lyre. 

The  native  instruments  of  u-ar  are  the  bow  and  arrows,  the 
tomahawk,  and  the  scalping  knife.  Since  the  introduction  of 
muskets  among  them,  many  tribes  have  laid  aside  the  bows  and 
arrows;  the  tomahawk  is  a  kind  of  battle-axe,  the  handle  of 
which,  having  a  hollow  tube  down  its  whole  length,  and  a  bowl 
at  the  end,  serves  as  a  tobacco  pipe;  for  these  savages  are  fond 
of  smoking.  With  the  scalping  knife,  which  the  warriors  al- 
ways wear  suspended  about  their  necks,  they  cut  a  circular 
gash  round  the  crown  of  the  head  of  their  prisoners  of  war, 
and  then  tear  off  the  skin  and  hair,  which  they  bear  away  as 
lawful  prize.  By  these  scalps  they  reckon  the  number  of  their 
prisoners. 

As  the  Indians  are  unacquainted  with  letters,  their  history  is 
•principally  preserved,  by  tradition.  They  have  no  division  of 
time  into  weeks,  but  reckon  days  by  sleeps  ;  half  days,  by 
pointing  at  the  sun  at  noon  ;  and  quarters  by  his  rising  and  set- 
ting. Many  in  the  north,  reckon  their  years  by  snores  ;  others, 
in  more  southern  districts,  by  moons,  of  which  they  estimate 
twelve  to  the  year,  but  add  one,  called  the  lost  moon,  to  every 
thirty.    Their  politeness  in  conversation  is  carried  to  excess > 


58  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 


INDIAN    TRIBES. 


since  they  never  contradict  nor  seem  to  discredit  what  is  said 
in  tiieir  i)resence.  Tlu-y  thus  avoid  disputes;  but  it  becomes 
dillicult  to  know  what  impression  hasbeen  made  on  their  minds. 
The  missionaiies,  who  liave  endeavored  to  convert  tlicm  to 
C'hrislianity,  complain  oi"  this  habit,  as  one  oftiie  >!;reatest  dif- 
ficulties in  their  way.  The  Indians  hear  witii  patience  the 
truths  of  the  frospel  explained  to  them,  and  give  their  usual 
t(jkens  of  assent  and  approbation  ;  but  this  does  not  imply  con- 
viction, it  is  only  civility.  They  generally  manifest  a  great 
indiiierencefor  the  productions  of  art;  and,  if  lh(;y  seem  to  de- 
rive pleasure  from  looking  at  them,  they  are  seldom  inquisi- 
tive about  their  construction,  or  anxious  to  know  their  use. 

Funeral  rilen,  as  well  as  viarriag^a  ceremonies^  amf)ng  most 
Indian  tribes,  are  few.  Choctaw  widows  express  their  mourn- 
inji,  by  not  combing  their  hair,  usually  for  the  space  of  a  year. 
The  C:hippeway  men  mourn  by  paintiii!?  their  faces  black. 
The  Sioux  cover  their  dead  bodies  with  only  a  lew  inches  of 
earth.  The  Chippeways  bury  them  to  the  depth  of  eight  feet. 
Anu)ngthis  latter  nation,  for  several  nights  after  an  interment, 
lire  is  placed  in  the  grave.  On  losing  her  child,  a  Chippeway 
mother  prepares  an  image  of  it,  which  she  diesses  as  she  did 
her  living  child,  and  goes  through  the  ceremonies  of  nursing  it, 
as  if  it  was  alive,  by  dropping  little  particles  of  food  in  the  di- 
rection of  its  mouth.  This  nation  freiiuently  jilaces  the  coffin, 
or  box  containing  a  deceased  friend,  on  two  cross  pieces  tied  to 
four  poles,  whicli  are  about  ten  feet  high.  Near  these  posts 
they  plant  the  wild  hop,  or  some  other  running  vine,  which 
spreads  over  anfl  covers  the  coUiii.  It  may  be  added,  in  this 
connexion,  that  mothers  usually  carry  their  young  children, 
when  travelling,  on  their  backs,  in  a  kind  of  cradle,  the  only 
fastening  to  wliich  is  a  piece  of  deer  skin,  which  goes  round 
the  forehead  of  the  mother. 

lite.  Indians  of  the  Rorhy  Mountains  and  (he  country  be- 
yond, are  considrratjiy  numerous,  aiui  rliflersomewiiat  in  their 
'ajijiedraure,  and  customs,  from  those  tribes  which  livcb«>tween 
the  foregoing  mountains  and  the  AUeganies.  Some  of  tlie 
princi|)al  tribes  are  the  Sheshonee.s,  or  Snake  Indians,  theCho- 
jdinnish  family,  the  Maltnomack  tribes,  the  Sokulk,  ("hinam- 
pum,  Wallahwollah,  Pislupiitpah,  \Vahowi»um,  I<'neshure,  Es- 
kcloot,  &c.  Some  of  tliest-  tribes  are  represented  as  gentle 
and  Jiospitable.  In  general,  the  females  are,  treated  l)etterthan 
among  more  eastern  trihe.s  ;  yet  a  difference,  in  this  respect, 
has  bci-n  noticerl  by  travellers.  As  a  race,  they  arc  not  as 
well  formed  as  tiie  Inrlianswhom  we  have  described.  Defor- 
mity seems  to  be  considered  among  them  an  embellishment, 
ancl  filth  a  virtue.  The  general  practice  prevails  among  them 
in  infancy,  of  flattnning  the  hea<l.  This  is  done  by  a  flat  piece 
of  bark,  tied  to  tlie  infant's  forehead,  and  the  pressure  is  cf)n- 
tinued,  until  the  forehead  is  so  flattened,  that  it  is  in  a  straight 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  59 

»!■  1^  II    .         I     ■  ■  ■  . . 

ROCKY  MOtTNTAIN  INDIANS. —  DWELLINGS. 

line  with  the  nose,  and  the  skull  comes  to  a  point  only  an  inch 
or  two  through.     During  the  operation,  "the  eyes  stand  out  of 
tlie  head  like  those  of  a  mouse  squeezed  to  death  in  a  trap." 

The  hair  of  both  sexes  is  parted  at  the  top  of  the  head,  and 
thence  falls  loosely  behind  the  ears.  The  men  are  dressed  in 
a  small  robe  of  skin,  reaching  to  the  middle  of  the  thigh,  tied  by 
a  string  across  the  breast,  while  its  corners  hang  loosely  over 
the  arms.  A  blanket,  woven  with  the  fringes  from  the  wool 
of  their  native  sheep,  sometimes  supplies  the  place  of  this  skin ; 
and  occasionally  they  throw  a  mat  over  them,  to  keep  off  the 
rain.  They  are  very  fond  of  the  dress  of  white  men,  whom 
they  call  pashishcooks,  or  cloth-men  ;  and,  whenever  they  can 
procure  any  of  their  clothes,  they  wear  them  in  the  European 
fashion,  except  that  they  never  put  on  shoes.  The  robe  of  the 
women  reaches  only  to  the  waist,  and  below  that  they  have  a 
kind  of  petticoat,  reaching  to  the  knees.  The  latter  is  made 
with  stripes  of  skin  of  the  sea-otter,  the  beaver,  or  the  racoon, 
twisted  and  interwoven  with  silk-grass,  or  bark  of  white  cedar, 
so  that  the  fur  appears  equally  on  both  sides,  and  forms  a  soft 
and  warm  garment.  The  covering  for  the  head  is  composed 
of  bear-grass  and  cedar  bark,  interwoven  in  a  conic  form,  with 
a  knob  of  the  same  shape  at  top.  It  has  no  brim,  but  is  kept 
on  by  a  string,  which  passing  under  the  chin,  is  fastened  to  a 
small  rim  within  the  hat.  The  colors  are  generally  black 
and  white,  formed  into  various  figures.  In  very  cold  weather, 
the  women  put  on  an  additional  vest  of  skins,  which,  being 
tied  behind,  covers  the  body  from  the  arm-pits  to  the  waist. 
They  sometimes  tattoo  their  arms  and  legs;  and  both  sexes 
are  very  profuse  in  the  use  of  ornaments,  consisting  of  large 
blue  and  white  beads,  bears'  claws,  and  tusks  of  elks;  with 
bracelets  of  iron,  coj>per,  and  brass,  in  various  forms.  Yet, 
with  all  their  finery,  they  are  filthy  and  disgusting. 

T'he  dwellings  of  these  people  consist  of  pits  hollowed  in  the 
earth,  sometimes  to  the  depth  of  four  or  five  feet,  and  covered 
with  framed  timber  huts.  The  largest  are  divided  by  parti- 
tions into  rooms  ;  three  or  four  families  residing  in  each.  An 
aperture  is  left  in  the  roof  for  the  smoke  to  pass  through,  and 
the  entrance  is  by  a  small  hole,  just  large  enough  for  a  man  to 
squeeze  his  body  through.  In  the  centre  of  each  room  is  a 
space,  six  or  eight  feet  square,  sunk  to  the  depth  of  twelve 
inches  below  the  rest  of  the  floor ;  and  here  the  fire  is  made, 
for  which  pine  bark  is  preferred  to  any  other  kind  of  fuel. 
Around  the  fire-place  mats  are  spread,  which  serve  for  seats 
by  day,  and  frequently,  for  beds  at  night ;  though  certain  shelves 
fixed  against  the  walls  may  be  considered  as  their  proper  bed- 
steads. 

Before  leaving  this  part  of  the  continent,  we  would  propose 
to  our  fellow  travellers  a  short  visit  to  Oonalashka,  the  lar- 
gest of  the  Aleutian,  or  Fox  Islands,  which  are  separated  from 


to  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

t  — — ' —         ■-  .—    ...       .   — — ...  .1  -   -     ,      ■  -       .^ 

INDIAN    TRIBES. 

llie  continent  of  Anirrica  by  a  channel  of  no  great  width.     Our 
account  of  thoin  shall  1)0  brief 

The  inhabitants  of  tills  island,  and,  indeed,  of  the  Aleutians 
generally,  are  of  the  middle  size,  with  strongly  marked  fea- 
tures, and  benevolent  countenanct\s.  Their  dark  skin  is  ren- 
dered worse  i)y  want  of  cleanliness.  They  have  full  round 
faces,  flat  noses,  biuckeyes  and  hair,  but  no  beard  ;  for  this  they 
pluck  out  by  the  roots  as  soon  as  it  begins  to  grow.  The  cos- 
tume is  nearlj'  the  same  for  both  sexes  ;  and  con"sists  of  a  kind 
of  shirt,  made  of  the  sea-dog's  skin,  or  of  the  skins  of  various 
sea  birds:  this  is  fastened  round  the  neck  with  a  broad  stifi" 
collar,  and  sometimes  ingeniously  ornamented  with  glass  beads, 
sea-parrots'  beaks,  stripes  of  sea-otters'  skins,  goats'  hair,  feath- 
ers, or  dj'ed  leather.  They  have  also  garments  of  feath(M-s,  in 
the  fabrication  of  which  a  person  will  be  employed  a  whole 
•year,  and  great  art  is  displayetl  in  fTie  workmanship.  In  dry 
and  cold  weather,  the  feathers  are  worn  inwards;  but  in  rainy 
weather,  they  are  turned  outwards,  to  throw  off  the  wet.  But 
the  proper  rain  dress  is  made  of  the  entrails  of  the  sea-dogj 
which  are  so  effectually  sewed  together  as  to  be  water-proof. 
A  hood  is  attached,  which  covers  the  head,  and  is  tied  luider 
the  chin.  A  wooden  hat,  which  overshadows  the  eyes  like  an 
umbrella,  but  is  rounded  off  behind,  is  the  most  expensive  part 
of  the  head-dress  v.orn  by  these  people,  from  the  ditficulty  of 
procuring  a  piece  of  wood  suitable  for  the  purpose,  and  bring- 
ing it  to  the  proper  shape.  It  is  adorned  with  beads,  and 
fiinall  ivory  figures,  cut  from  the  teeth  of  the  sea-cow,  and 
with  the  bristles  of  the  sea-lion's  beard.  The  last  are  highly 
esteemed  ;  ft)r  as  each  animal  has  only  four  of  these  bristles, 
the  wearing  of  a  considerable  number  is  the  token  of  a  good 
hunter.  The  women  wear  numerous  rings  upon  their  fingers; 
and  are  fond  of  decorating  their  wrists  and  ankles  with  circles 
of  glass  beads  J  but  they  are  generally  barefooted.  They  also 
-cut  their  hair  just  above  the  eyes,  and  tie  it  behind  in  a  large 
bunch.  The  men  sufl^er  their  locks  to  hang  disorderly  about 
their  shoulders.  On  particular  occasions,  us  festivals,  strings 
ofglassbeads  are  susj)ended  from  small  sj)linters  of  wood  thrust 
through  tlie  nostrils,  ears,  and  under  lips.  Tattooing  was  for- 
merly much  practised  by  the  females;  but  sincethe  residence 
of  the  Russians  among  them,  it  is  nearly  discontinued. 

7Vip  hnhif(ttin:>fi  of  the  Ooitdldshlains  are  hol(>s  dug  in  tlie 
ground,  and  covered  with  a  loof,  over  which  eartli  is  thrown, 
and  grass  grows  upon  it:  hence  a  village  has  the  appearance 
of  a  European  burial  ground,  full  of  turfed  graves.  A  hole 
in  the  top  serves  for  door-way,  window,  and  chimney.  Fish  and 
sea-dogs,  with  the  fat  and  some  other  parts  of  the  whale,  serve 
these  islanders  lor  food.  Th(>  sea-dog  supplies  tli(;ni  with  most 
of  the  necessaries  of  life:  their  clothes,  carpets,  shoes,  and  sev- 
eral hou.sehold  utensils,  are  made  of  its  skin,  with  which  also 
'their  canoes  arc  covcied  ;  the  gullet  is  converted  into  trousers 


A  CMppetoay  Female  of  Distinction.        F,  58. 


Indian  Lodge.         I'.  52. 


Ch  ppeway  Lodge.         P.  -yi. 


•. 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  61 

INDIANS  OF  NOOTKA  SOUND. 

and  boots ;  liquors  are  preserved  in  its  pauncii ;  rain  garments 
and  windows  are  made  of  its  entrails  ;  its  bristles  serve  as  or- 
naments for  the  head  ;  its  flesh  is  eaten  ;  and  the  oil  produced 
from  its  fat  is  not  only  an  article  of  food,  but  also  furnishes 
light  and  warmth  in  the  subterraneous  abodes  of  the  islanders. 

The  canoes  of  the  islanders,  which  are  very  ingeniously  con- 
structed with  wooden  frames,  and  a  covering  of  sea-dog's  skins, 
are  well  calculated  for  short  voyages.  The  men  display  much 
ingenuity  in  carving  figures  of  men,  beasts,  and  birds,  from 
the  teeth  of  the  sea-cow,  which  are  harder  than  ivory ;  and 
the  women  are  no  less  dexterous  in  the  fabrication  of  fine 
mats,  small  baskets,  and  pocket-books  of  straw,  very  prettily 
woven  together.  They  also  dye  straw,  leather,  and  other  or- 
namental articles,  with  very  gay  colors.  Both  sexes  are  ex- 
tremely fond  of  snuff  and  brandy ;  but  the  latter  is  very  scarce. 
Dancing  is  a  favorite  amusement  with  them,  and  is  performed 
in  the  open  air,  to  the  sound  of  a  small  drum,  sometimes  ac- 
companied by  shaking  a  bladder  with  pebbles  in  it.  The 
dances  consist  of  two  or  three  persons  hopping  simultaneously 
without  shifting  their  places. 

On  our  return  from  Oonalashkato  the  American  continent, 
we  shall  find  it  convenient  to  enter  a  remarkable  Bay,  called 
NooTKA  Sound.  In  this  sound  are  several  islands,  the  princi- 
pal of  which  is  called  Quadra  and  Vancouver's  Island,  in  com- 
pliment to  Signor  Q,uadra,  the  Spanish  commander  atNootka 
Sound,  and  Captain  Vancouver. 

The  inhabitants  of  Nootka  are  in  general  robust  and  well 
proportioned,  but  with  less  symmetry  than  most  other  Indians 
of  North  America  ;  their  faces  are  large  and  full,  their  cheeks 
high  and  prominent,  their  eyes  small  and  black,  noses  broad 
and  flat,  lips  thick,  and  teeth  of  the  most  brilliant  whiteness. 
A  custom  prevails  among  them  of  compressing  the  foreheads 
of  infants  with  strong  fillets,  so  as  to  make  the  upper  part  of  the 
head  grow  of  a  conical  or  sugar-loaf  shape.  This  practice 
causes  the  eyebrows  to  be  drawn  up,  flattens  the  nose,  distends, 
the  nostrils,  and  sometimes  produces  squinting  ;  yet  they  are 
by  no  means  an  ill-looking  race.  In  common  with  many  oth- 
er American  Indians,  they  extirpate  their  beards,  by  plucking 
them  out  by  the  roots  ;  yet  the  hair  of  their  heads  is  an  object 
of  their  vanity,  and  they  take  great  pains  with  it.  Their  skin 
is  white,  and  some  of  the  women  exhibit  fair  complexions, 
and  delicate,  if  not  beautiful  features. 


■"J 


The  houses  of  these  people  are  made  of  very  long  and  broad 

"^planks,  resting  upon  the  edges  of  each  other,  and  tied  together 

with  withes  of  the  pine  barkT   The  only  doors  and  windows  they 

have,  consist  of  the  holes  resulting  from  the  unequal  length  of 

thp  planks.    Some  slender  upright  posts  on  the  outside,  and 

6 


62  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

CANADA, 

some  larp;or  poles,  set  aslant  within,  are  the  only  support  of 
these  fragile  "  wooden  walls." 

Ilavins;  now  finished  our  western  excursion,  we  will  turn  to 
the  aliodos  of  civilized  society — a  proposal,  wliich  will  doubt- 
less be  hailed  with  pleasure  by  the  more  timid  of  our  fellow 
travellers,  who  may,  at  least  in  the  visions  of  the  night,  fancy 
themselves  tomahawked,  or  scalped,  or  perhaps  devoured  by 
caiuubals,  among  whom  we  have  roved.  A  wide  di.stance 
stretches  before  us — mountains,  lakes,  forests,  intervene,  and 
not  a  few  as  inhospitable  tribes  as  any  we  have  yet  seen  ;  but, 
like  the  uplifted  aeronaut,  we  sail  fearlessly  over  dangers, 
which  thicken  upon  more  sublunary  travellei's.  Our  voyage 
compassed,  we  introduce  our  fellow  travellers  to  the  inhabi- 
tants of  Canada. 


3.  CANADA. 


The  population  of  Canada,  Upper  and  Lower,  is  computed 
at  the  present  time  at  920,000.*  They  are  composed  nf  Amer- 
iraii!^,  French,  IJitf^lish,  tScDirIt,  In'.s-/i,  fterDiuns,  and  IJitlch. 
The  French,  however,  greatly  exceed  all  other  classes;  and 
in. their  manners  and  customs  have  experienced  little  change, 
since  the  conquest  of  the  coinitry  by  the  British.  They  are 
described  as  honest,  hospitalile,  and  inoffensive ;  but  unin- 
formed and  indolent ;  attached  to  ancient  prejudices,  and  lim- 
iting their  exertions  to  the  acquisition  of  necessaries,  rather 
than  the  conveniences  of  life.  Tlunr  propensity  to  inaction 
retains  many  in  a  state  of  poverty;  but,  as  their  wants  are 
circumscribed,  they  appear  happy.  C'ontentment  of  mind  and 
mildness  ofdis))osition,  seem  to  be  the  leading  features  in  their 
character.  They  have  little  disire  for  novelty  or  improve- 
ment, and  exhiliitno  great  portion  of  genius. 

At  an  early  period  of  life,  the  Canadian  is  healthy  and  robust, 
and  can  with  patience  and  resolution  encounter  great  fatigue 
in  case  of  ne^oa^ity.  But  his  strength  is  not  of  long  duration, 
and  he  soon  looksold.  His  natural  love  of  indolence  and  sj)irit 
of  indejien'^'^  nc.'  in, die  him  a  .bad  servant;  though,  as  a  mas- 
ter, he  is  ki  indulgent.  Accustonierl  to  concern  himself 
oiily  in  his  uv.n  a. lairs,  lie  is  not  remarkable  for  constancy  in 
liii-ndship  ;  and  is  rarely  liable  to  be  overreached  in  traihc. 

Both  men  and  vonu^n  live  to  an  advanced  age;  many  of  the 
latter  are  hanilsome,  when  young;  but  exposure  to  the  weath- 
er, and  the  laborious  toils  of  the  lield,  in  which  they  arc  obli- 
ged to  take  their  full  proportion,  ^oon  render  them  of  a  s.allow 
hue  iind  masculine  form.  Each  family  .';U|)plies  its  wants  from 
its  own  resources:  they  ma;nifactur.e  their  own  linen  and  wool- 

♦  Thi<»i:?iIicefJirtia!cof  Dr».  Reel  ond  Mntlicpon. 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  63 

COSTUME    OF    THE    CANADIANS. 

len  stufFs ;  tan  the  hides  of  their  cattle ;  inake  shoes  and. 
stockings  ;  and  are  their  ov/n  tailors,  carpenters,  masons  and 
wheelers.  The  furniture  of  their  habitations,  also,  is  general- 
ly of  their  own  workmanship,  and  consequently  is  seldom  ve- 
ry ornamental.  Their  principal  article  o^  food  consists  of 
pease-soup,  with  a  small  quantity  of  porlc*  boiled  in  it,  and  a 
dish  of  sour  miik.  Tea  and  cotfce  are  lised  to  some  extent. 
Women  and  children  seldom  use  any  other  drink  than  milk 
and  water  ;  but  tiie  men  are  passionately  fond  of  rum  ;  and 
but  few  of  them,  when  they  go  to  market  with  their  commodi- 
ties, return  home  perfectly  sober. 

"  la  the  costume  of  the  French  gentry  in  Canada,"  observes 
Professor  Silliman  in  his  'Journal.'  "  there  is  nothing  peculiar. 
The  peasantnj  frequently  wear  a  blue  or  red  woollen  cap,  fall- 
ing back  in  a  pendant  cone,  and  many  of  them  wear  a  red  or 
party  colored  woollen  sash  around  their  waists.  They  are 
fond  of  tobacco^  and  are  frequently  observed  smoking  with  a 
short  pipe,  while  they  are  Walking  or  driving  their  carts." 
"  We  were  sufiiciently  amused,"  observes  the  professor,  "  at 
seeing  a  common  Frenchman  driving  a  cart  of  dry  straw  in 
the  sti-eets  of  Montreal,  while  he  was  sitting  immediately  be- 
fore it,  smoking  his  pipe  quite  iniconcerned,  although  a  strong 
v.-ind  was  blowing  the  sparks  direct!}-'  towards  the  straw.  A 
day  or  two  after,  we  met  another,  also  smoking,  and  with  the 
utmost  sang  froid^  sitting  in  the  midst  of  his  load  of  straw. 

"  We  visited  a  number  of  villages,  and  went  into  several 
houses  of  the  peasantrj'-,  besides  looking  into  many  others, 
particularly  around  Quebec,  the  delightful  weather  causing 
them  to  tiirow  their  -windows  wide  open.  Most  of  the  cottages 
are  constructed  of  logs,  nicely  squared  and  laid  up  ;  the  angles 
are  framed  or  halved  together,  the  seams  are  made  tight  by 
plaister,  good  windows  "and  doois  are  fitted  in,  the  roofs  are 
generally  of  shingles,  the  Vv'hole  is  tight  against  the  weather, 
and  neatly  white-washed,  roof  and  all ;  at  least,  this  is  com- 
monly the  fact  on  the  St.  Lawrence,  t  have  already  men- 
tioned that  the  better  sort  of  cottages  are  built  of  stone,  some- 
times covered  with  cement  and  sometimes  not.  Inside,  the 
houses  appear  very  comfortable  ;  they  are  plaistered  or  wains- 
coated,  and  each  mansion  is  furnished  with  an  ample  stove, 
usually  standing  in  the  middle  of  a  large  room,  or  in  the  par- 
tition of  two,  or  in  the  common  angle  of  several.  There  are 
large  out-houses,  barns,  &c.,  built  in  much  the  same  manner 
as  the  houses. 

''We  had  occasion  several  times  to  call  at  the  houses  of  the 
peasantry  for  milk,  or  something  else  that  we  wanted.  The 
milk  was  very  rich,  and  for  a  tritie  was  bountifully  furnished. 
The  manners  of  the  French  in  Canada,  are  extremely  court- 
eous and  kind  ;  those  of  the  gentry  are  of  course  polished,  but 
the  common  people,  also,  have  a  winning  gentleness  and  suav- 
ity, and  a  zealous  forv/ardness  to  serve  you,  which,  particu- 


64  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

.     CANADA. 

larly  in  Hip  villages,  cU'liirlitod  us  very  much.  BiVen  tho  com- 
mon  oui  Monsieur,  is  uttered  in  a  manner  so  diflereiit  from 
the  blunt  coldness  of  our  conur.on  people,  \vho  freipiently 
'urpfet  the  IMonsuur,  that  we  wore  much  struck  with  the  tlifle- 
once. 

'•  The  women,  of  tourse,  excel  the  men,  in  all  that  is  bland 
in  manner  and  obli3;ina;  in  conduct;  there  is  also  a  lady-like 
.self-posse.'jsion  aixiut  Ihein  ;  tiiey  do  not  ajipear  at  all  cnihar- 
rassed  by  the  qiipstions  of  a  straiifjer,  but  answer  them  with 
;'ie  ease  and  puiitenci^s  of  higher  life,  without  relinquishing 
(ne  siniplici.ty  of  manners  appropriate  to  their  own  condition. 
After  our  visit  to  the  C'haudiere,  bcinix  lal<*  and  in  haste,  we 
asked  for  some  milk  at  a  peasant's  door,  without  meaning  to 
go  in;  the  milk  was  instantly  produccil,  but,  we  nuist  not 
drink  it  at  the  door  ;  '  enfrez  Afonsifur,^  '  entrcz  Monsieur,'' 
was  kindly  repeated  by  tlie  wonmn  of  the  house,  and  we  went 
in  ;  she  seated  us  around  a  table,  and  furnished  us  with  a  bow] 
of  tine  milk,  and  with  tumblers  to  drink  it  out  of" 

Besides  the  French  population.  Canada  contains  some  Amer- 
if-ans,  and  still  more  settlers  of  English  or  German  tlescent. 
IJetween  the  former  and  latter  tliere  is  a  marked  distinction. 
The  following  exhibition  of  the  difference  which  exists  be- 
tween these  two  classes  will  doubtless  interest  our  fellow  trav- 
ellers : 

The  American  settler,  slow  and  silent,  does  not  rise  very 
early;  but  v.  hen  he  has  once  risen,  he  spends  the  w  hole  of  the 
day  in  an  uninterrupted  series  of  useful  labors.  At  breakfast, 
he  coldly  gives  orders  to  his  wife,  who  receives  them  with 
coldness  and  timidity,  and  obe3's  them  without  contradiction. 
If  the  weather  be  fair,  he  goes  out,  ploughs,  fells  trees,  makes 
fences,  or  the  like:  if  it  be  wet,  he  takes  an  inventoiy  of  the 
contents  of  his  house,  barn,  and  stables  ;  repairs  the  doors, 
windows,  or  locks;  drives  nails,  makes  chairs  or  tables;  and 
is  constantly  employed  in  rendering  his  habitation  secure, 
convenient,  and  neat.  With  these  disjiositions,  he  will  sell  his 
farm  if  an  opnoitimity  oHcr,  and  retire  into  the  woods  thirty 
/)r  lorty  miles,  to  (iirm  a  new  settlement.  There  he  will  sjjend 
y^ars  in  felling  trees,  making  for  himself  first  a  hut,  then  a 
stable,  thffi  a  barn  ;  clearing  the  ground,  and  then  sowing  if, 
&c.  His  wife,  jiatient  and  serious  as  himself,  will  second  his 
r'udeavors  on  her  part,  and  they  will  remain  sometimes  six 
months  without  seeing  the  face  of  a  stranger.  But  at  the  ex- 
piration of  four  or  five  years,  they  will  have  acquired  an  es- 
tate, that  ensurf^  subsislrnce  to  their  family.  The  French 
settler,  on  the  contrary,  rises  early  in  the  morning,  if  it  only 
be  tf>  talk  of  it.  lie  consults  liis  wife  on  what  he  shall  do,  and 
listens  to  her  advic<,'.  It  would  be  a  miracle,  if  they  were  al- 
ways of  the  same  opinion  ;  the  wife  argues,  ojiposes,  disputes; 
the  husband  insists  upon  f)r  yields  the  |>oint,  is  irritated  or 
disheartened.     Sometimes  his  house  is  irksome  to  him,  and 


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UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  65 


PECULIARITIES. TRAVELLING. 


he  takes  his  gun,  goes  a  shoothig  or  a  journey,  or  to  chat 
with  his  neiirhbors.  At  other  times,  he  stays  at  home,  and 
spends  the  time  in  talking  with  good  humor,  or  in  quarrelling 
and  scolding. 

Tliis  is  onie  of  the  most  distinguishing  and  characteristic 
features  of  the  two  nations.  And  to  this  difference  may  be 
traced,  in  no  inconsiderable  degree,  the  difference  in  the  in- 
dustry and  thrift  that  is  observable  between  them  The  Ameri- 
can settler  has  time,  or  takes  time  to  think  and  plan.  His 
calculations  are  made  witli  greater  accuracy,  and  executed 
with  more  expedition  and  certainty.  On  the  other  hand,  the 
Frenchman,  with  his  perpetual  domestic  chattering,  evapo- 
rates his  ideas,  submits  them  to  contradiction,  excites  around 
him  the  tattling  of  women,  backbiting  and  quarrelling  with  his 
neighbors,  and  finds,  at  length,  that  he  has  squandered  away 
his  time,  without  benefit  to  his  family. 

Any  peculiarities  in  the  modes  of  hfe  among  the  inhabitants 
of  Canada  are  most  observable  during  the  season  of  winter, 
which  in  this  country  presents  a  view  of  nature  perfectly  new 
to  the  natives  of  Great  Britain.  In  this  season,  the  appearance 
and  dress  of  the  Canadians  are  completely  changed,  and  in- 
stead of  the  hat  and  red  bonnet,  nothing  is  seen  but  fur  caps, 
far  cloaks,  fur  gloves,  and  worsted  stockings,  both  over  and 
under  the  boots.  Unless  protected  in  this  manner,  they  could 
not  venture  with  impunity,  into  the  severity  of  the  frosty  at- 
mosphere ;  but  even  under  such  a  load  of  clothing,  they  are 
able  to  walk  with  the  greatest  agility,  and  take  abundant  ex- 
ercise, without  being  fatigued. 

When  travellims^^in  the  cold  of  winter,  they  are  still  more 
completely  covered  with  a  double  cloak,  muff  and  tippet,  all  of 
fur ;  and  when  they  intend  to  deviate  from  the  ordinary  track, 
and  go  into  the  woods,  they  make  use  of  snow  shoes,  which 
are  made  of  a  kind  of  net  work,  fixed  upon  a  frame,  above 
two  feet  in  length,  eighteen  inches  broad,  and  shaped  like  a 
paper  kite.*  The  simple  instrument  of  walking  takes  in  so 
much  surface  of  snow,  that  the  feet  sink  but  a  few  inches,  and 
the  proijress  is  hence  rendered  comparatively  easy.  On  ac- 
count of  the  depth  of  the  snow,  it  would  be  impossible  to  travel 
with  wheel  carriages;  and  a  kind  of  sledge,  which  passes  over 
the  surfice  without  sinking  deep,  and  which  is  called  a  cariole, 
is  substituted  in  their  place.  The  body  of  this  conveyance  is 
shaped  like  a  phaeton,  a  vis-a-vis,  a  family  coach,  or  a  market 
cart,  according  to  the  fancy  of  the  owner,  and  the  particular 
use  to  which  it  is  applied.     It  is  fixed  upon  runners,  as  they 

*The  snow  shoe  is  sometimes  still  longer.  Usunlly  a  net  work  of  twisted 
deer  skins  cut  in  strips  is  fastened  to  the  frame.  The  foot  is  confined  to  it  by 
means  of  strings  of  the  same  materiah  The  snow  shoe  used  in  the  mountains 
is  turned  up  at  the  end,  and  is  pointed.  These  slioes  arc  ornamented  with  paint 
or  porcupine  quills,  according  to  the  owner's  fancy.  To  walk  well  on  these 
broad  and  long  bottoms  requires  practice. 


66  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

CANADA. 

arc  called,  which  resemble  in  form  (he  irons  of  a  skate,  rising 
up  in  front  after  a  similar  manner;  and  it  is  f;eneraiiy  nine  or 
twelve,  thoiiirli  sometimes  eii2;hteen  inches  above  the  snow. 
Those  vehicles  are,  for  the  most  part,  li^ht,  open  carriages, 
tttawn  by  one  horse;  but,  though  the  snow  under  their  tracks 
soon  becomes  firm  and  smootii,  yvt,  from  the  impro|)er  con- 
struction of  tliecrt>iules  in  common  use,  it  is  so  full  of  ineijiiali- 
lics,  called  cafiol.s;  that  their  motion  is  described  by  travellers 
as  resemblinir  the  rowing  of  a  boat  against  a  head  sea,  and  as 
requiring  long  custom  to  reconcile  a  stranger  to  bear  it  easily. 
The  small  rivers,  ditches,  and  fences,  are  so  filled  with  snow, 
as  to  be  on  a  level  with  the  lields  on  every  side ;  and  the  coun- 
try people,  when  they  first  form  their  tracks,  direct  their  ca- 
rioles,  by  the  nearest  course,  or  where  the  snow  is  most  level, 
without  regarding  the  summer  roails.  These  winter  tracks, 
by  fixing  in  the  snow  small  fir  trees  at  short  and  regular  dis- 
tances, which  retain  their  verduie  till  the  spring,  appear 
)ike  walks  crossing  the  country  in  various  directions,  and  have 
a  veiy  curious  and  striking  effect. 

The  severity  of  winter  in  this  countiy  is  attended  with  vari- 
ous (idrai)t(i^es,  especially  to  the  inhabitants  of  the  towns. 
As  the  lakes  and  rivers  are  then  frozen,  the  conveyance  of 
many  articles  is  thus  greatly  facilitated  ;  and  as  the  people  in  the 
counlrj'  have  no  other  occupation,  to  which  tlu-y  can  apply, 
they  employ  themselves  in  carrying  to  town  all  kinds  of  provi- 
sions. The  markets  are  thus  supplied  from  a  great  extent  of 
country;  fish,  for  instance,  is  brougiit  frtnu  the  United  States, 
from  a  distance  of  several  hundred  miles;  and  every  article 
of  subsistence  is  both  more  plentiful,  and  also  much  cheaper, 
than  during  the  sunuuer.  By  the  aid  of  winter,  also,  all  kinds 
of  animal  food  are  preserved  for  the  use  of  the  inhabitants, 
witliout  much  trouble  or  expense.  As  soon  as  the  frost  has 
become  sufficiently  intense,  the  cattle,  sheep,  poultry.  &c.  be- 
fore {\\vy  have  lost  any  of  the  flesii  and  fat  which  they  have 
ac;quired  by  summer  feeding,  are  killed,  and  exposed  for  a 
short  time  to  the  frost,  upon  which  they  become  as  hard  as 
ic"'.  and.  after  being  jiacked  in  casks  with  snow,  will  continue, 
without  any  other  picparation,  perfectly  sound  and  good,  for 
the  space  of  four  or  five  nuuiths.  ^\  hen  meat,  in  this  state,  is 
about  to  be  used,  it  is  thawed  in  cold  water;  and  wf)uld  be 
rendered  putrid  in  a  short  time  by  any  warm  application.  In 
this  way,  considerable  rjuantities  of  fiesh  fish,  especially  of 
what  the  Canadians  call  jh  titr  movni\  and  the  iMiglish  tommy 
cod,  are  preserved  for  the  market.  They  are  caught  by  the 
country  peojjle,  during  the  statrnation  o(  their  usual  work,  by 
nets  or  lines,  let  down  through  openings  made  in  the  ice. 
Sometimes  huts  of  boards,  or  even  of  ice,  are  constructed  over 
these  o{)('nings,  with  a  stove  within  to  keep  the  fisher.s  warm; 
a  strong  light  is  then  placed  near  the  mouth  of  the  opening,  by 
which  the  fish  are  attracted  to  the  surface,  and  are  taken  as 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  67 

AMUSEMENTS. LANGUAGE. 

fast  as  they  can  be  pulled  out  of  the  water.  They  are  quickly 
frozen  by  a  few  minutes' exposure  to  the  air;  are  thus  sufficient- 
ly preserved  without  any  salting  or  dryinf^;  and,  upon  being 
thawed  in  cold  water,  are  found  to  be  thoroughly  fresh  and 
wholesome. 

A  j^reat  proportion  of  the  people,  especially  those  in  towns,  are 
destitute  of  employment  during  the  six  months  of  winter  ;  but 
their  wages  during  summer  are  seldom  less  than  four,  five,  or 
even  six  shillings  a  day.  Hence  they  dress  as  well,  and  live 
as  comfortably,  as  the  lower  classes  in  any  other  country:  but 
their  long  idleness  during  the  winter  season  seems  to  generate 
an  indolent  habit ;  and  they  do  not  perform  so  much  work, 
even  when  they  are  employed,  as  those  who  are  regularly  en- 
gaged in  labor  throughout  the  whole  year.  In  the  country, 
they  sometimes  employ  themselves  in  cutting  and  carrying 
home  fire-wood,  or  in  any  kind  of  work  that  may  help  keep 
them  warm;  and,  occasionally,  in  making  a  journey  to  the 
nearest  towns  for  the  purpose  of  selling  their  surplus  provisions, 
or  of  purchasing  some  little  comforts  for  themselves,  such  as 
snuff,  tobacco,  spirits,  &c.  In  towns,  the  whole  six  months,  of 
winter  may  be  said  to  be  devoted  to  amusement^  of  which  the 
most  prevalent  is  dancing;  and  besides  the  regular  assemblies 
for  this  purpose,  they  have  occasional  country  parties,  which 
maybe  considered  as  a  kind  of  pic-nic  feasts.  The  company 
ride  out  in  the  forenoon  in  their  carioles,  to  some  proper  place, 
at  a  little  distance  from  town,  every  one  carrying  a  dish  ready 
dressed  ;  and  after  having  dined,  danced,  and  supped,  they  re- 
turn home  at  midnight  amidst  the  wind  and  snow;  or  should 
the  storm  be  unusually  boisterous,  contentedly  remain  where 
they  are,  and  continue  the  dance  till  daylight  appears,  to  guide 
them  through  the  driftin"  blast. 


o 


The  French  language  is  altogether  the  prevailing  tongue  of 
the  towns,  and  the  invariable  language  of  the  villages.  In  the 
streets,  both  in  town  and  country ;  in  the  steamboats ;  in  the 
markets  ;  and  in  short,  every  where,  you  hardly  ever  hear  any 
thing  but  French.  All  people  of  business,  of  education,  of 
fashion  and  influence,  speak  both  English  and  French  ;  and  the 
proceedings  of  all  courts,  and  all  pleading  and  arguments  iu 
them,  are  carried  on  in  both.  The  common  people  in  the 
towns  generally  speak  both ;  many  of  those  who  come  to 
market  also;  but  in  the  villages,  the  inhabitants  speak  French 
only.  The  French  gentry  in  Canada,  it  is  said,  speak  and 
write  the  language  with  purity,  and  the  French  spoken  by  the 
common  people  is  even  more  pure  than  that  used  by  the  coun- 
try people  of  France,  and  is  as  good  as  the  EngUsh  spoken  by 
the  common  classes  in  the  United  States. 

The  religious  state  of  Canada  is  in  several  respects  far  from 
being  prosperous.    In  the  Lower  Province,  out  of  a  population 


CS  UxMVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

CANADA. 

estinuitod  at  000.000  souls,  4G0.000  are  considered  Roman 
Catliolics.  Tlio  reinaiiiin_2;  140,000  are  Protestants  of  {iidrrent 
relitrious  denominations.  The  t'atiioiics  have  150  priests,  and 
tlic  Protestants  G8  ministers,  twenty-ei^ht  of  whicii  belong  to 
the  Episcopal  establishment.  Fioin  this  estimate,  it  is  easy  to 
perceive  iiow  inadequate  must  be  tlie  means  of  instruction  even 
among  the  P)'olestants.  But  far  more  inadetpiate  is  the  instruc- 
tion enjoyed  by  the  Roman  C^atholics.  "  The  great  object  of 
their  priests,"  observers  Dr.  Matheson,  in  his  late  "Report  re- 
.specting  Canada,"  "is  to  retain  them  in  tin*  errors  anci  super- 
stitions of  Pouery.  The  jieasantry  are  in  general  a  (piiet  and 
contented  race;  but  grossly  ignorant,  not  only  of  the  great 
doctrines  of  Ciiristianity.  but  even  of  the  first  rudiments  of 
knowledge,  very  few  of  them  being  able  to  read.  They  are 
entirely  under  the  spiritual  domination  of  man,  blindly  at- 
tached to  the  worst  corruptions  of  Christianity.  No  ray  of 
scripture  light  has  yet  jienelrated  the  thick  darkness  that  sur- 
rounds that  part  of  the  population.  The  scriptures  are  exclu- 
ded, and  protestant  teachers  are  not  allowed  to  instruct  the 
ignorant;  if  the  priests  can  i)revent  it;  and  their  power  over 
the  mindS»of  Ihe  people  is  almost  omnipotent." 

Upper  Canada  is  estimated  to  contain  at  this  time  about 
320,000  inhabitants.  Of  this  number  veiy  few  are  Roman 
Catholics.  The  number  of  Protestant  ministers  is  JGO,  forty 
of  which  are  Episcopal;  lifty-one  of  the  I\I(  thodist  denomina- 
tion ;  thirtj'-four  Presbyterian  ;  and  thirty  Paptist.  In  conse- 
quenceofthe  religious  destitutioaof the  inhabitants  of  Caiuida, 
the  education  of  children  is  seriously  neglected.  In  the  Upper 
Province,  the  colonial  legislature  engages  to  give  twenty 
pounds  a  year  to  assist  in  the  support  of"  a  schoolmaster,  if  the 
settlers  collect  twenty  children,  and  procnie  a  teacher.  But 
as  many  of  the  jiarents  do  not  much  value  education;  and  the 
labor  of  their  children,  especially  if  they  are  sons,  is  so  much 
needed  on  their  farms,  applications  for  the  government  grant 
are  comparatively  few.  And  incases  where  aid  is  souglit  and 
given,  the  children  only  attend  school  a  few  months  in  the  )'ear. 
INIuch,  plainly,  therefore,  remains  to  be  done,  before  the  system 
ofcommcm  school  educatir)n  will  compare  to  the  exalted  jiriv- 
ilege.s,  which  arc  enjoyed  by  the  children  of  the  United  States. 
The  longer  we  travel — the  more  countries  we  survey,  with  this 
truth  shall  we  be  more  deeply  impressed,  timt  in  respect  to  the 
means  of  religious  knowledge,  and  useful  learning,  no  people 
on  the  globe  take  jjrecedence  of  the  jieople  of  re])ublican 
America. 

With  this  brief  view  of  Canada,  we  must  content  ourselves, 
and  again  roam,  for  a  lime,  among  inhabitants  as  rude  and  un- 
cultivated, as  their  climate  is  cold  and  inhospitalde.  In  this 
proposed  more  northern  excursion,  we  will  stop  for  a  few  days 
among  the  Ilsfiuimauar. 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  69 


ESaUIMAUX. 


4.  ESaUIMAUX. 

The  Esqniwmix  are  spread  ocer  the  whole  of  the  northern 
coast  of  America.  Those  to  the  northeast  of  Hudson's  Bay, 
are  oflar£2;er  size  than  those  of  Labrador  ;  yet  they  are  inferi- 
or to  Europeans.  ]M'Keevor  in  his  voya2;e  to  Hudson's  Bay, 
saw  but  a  single  one  whose  height  exceeded  five  feet.  Parry, 
during  his  stx^.ond  voyage,  measured  one  who  was  five  feet 
ten  inches.  Of  twenty  individuals  of  each  sex,  measured  by 
this  latter  navigator  "at  Igloolik,  the  average  height  of  the 
men  was  five  fe^t  five  inches  and  one  third,  and  that  of  the 
women,  five  feet  and  half  an  inch.  A  difference  may  be  no- 
ticed ill  the  account  of  the  Esquimaux,  which  different  writers 
liave  given  of  this  singular  people,  doubtless  owing  to  a  real- 
difference  existing  among  the  different  clans  or  tribes.  We 
shall  direct  the  attention  of  our  readers  to  the  Esquimaux  of 
Melville  peninsula,  and  the  adjoining  islands,  following  the 
account  given  us  in  the  "Journal"  of  Capt.  Parry,  during  his 
second  voyage. 

In  their  figure,  the  Esquimaux,  observes  Capt.  Parry,  ai-e 
rather  vv'el!  formed  than  others.  Their  faces  are  generally 
round  and  full,  eyes  small  and  black,  nose  also  small,  and  sunk 
far  in  the  cheek  bones,  but  not  much  flattened.  Their  teeth 
i-ire  short,  thick,  and  close,  generally  regular,  and,  in  young 
persons,  almost  always  white.  In  the  young  of  both  sexes, 
the  complexion  is  clear  and  transparent,  and  the  ckin 
smooth.  The  color  of  the  latter,  when  divested  of  oil  and 
dirt,  is  scarcely  a  shade  darker  than  that  of  a  deep  'brunette, 
so  that  the  blood  is  plainly  perceptible  when  it  mounts  into  the 
cheeks. 

The  hair,  both  of  the  males  and  females,  is  black,  glossy, 
and  straight.  The  men  usually  wear  it  xery  long,  and  allow 
it  to  hang"  about  their  heads  in  a  loose  and  slovenly  manner. 
The  women  pride  themselves  on  the  length  aiid  thickness  of 
their  hair,  and  when  inclined  to  be  neat,  they  separate  their 
locks  into  two  equal  parts,  one  of  which  hangs  on  each  side 
of  their  heads,  and  in  front  of  their  shoulders.  In  this  condi- 
tion it  is  bound  round  with  a  strap  of  leather,  and  hangs  down 
like  a  whip  or  tail.  This  mode  of  dressing  is  considered  neat 
and  ornamental.  In  both  sexes  it  is  full  of  vermin,  which  they 
are  in  the  constant  habit  of  picking  out  and  eating.  A  man 
and  his  wife  will  sit  for  an  hour  together,  performing  for  each 
other  that  fi-iendly  office.  When  a  Avoman's  husband  is  ilL 
she  wears  her  hair  loose,  and  cuts  it  off  as  a  sign  of  mourning 
when  he  dies;  a  custom  agreeing  with  that  of  the  Greenland- 
ers.  The  men  wear  the  hair  on  the  upper  lip  and  chin,  from 
an  inch  to  an  inch  and  a  half  in  length,  and  some  were  distin- 
guished by  a  little  tuft  between  the  chin  and  lower  lip. 


70  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

ESQOIMAL'X. 

Till:  (hcsst'ft  of  both  wale  hihI  fenutir,  a>;  obsorvod  .inions"  the 
Esquimaux  byCapt.  Parry,  wore  composed  almost  entirely  of 
deerskin.  Those  seen  by  M'Keevor  were  made  of  the  skins 
of  rein  deer,  seal,  and  birds.  The  outer  garment  consists  of  a 
jacket,  close,  but  not  ticiht,  comimz;  down  as  lowastlieiiips,  and 
liavinp;  slecn'es  reaching  to  tiie  wrists.  In  that  of  the  women, 
the  tail  or  Hap  behind  is  very  broad,  and  so  long  as  almost  to 
touch  the  ground  ;  while  a  shorter  and  narrower  one  before 
reaches  half  wa\' down  the  thi'j;h.  The  men  have  also  a  tail 
in  the  hind  part  of  their  jacket,  but  of  smaller  dimensions  ;  but 
before,  it  is  generally  straight,  or  ornamented  by  a  single  scol- 
lop. The  hood  of  the  jacket,  which  f(irms  the  only  covering 
for  their  head,  is  much  the  largest  in  that  of  the  women,  for 
the  purpose  of  holding  a  child.  Tlie  back  of  the  jacket  also 
bulges  out  in  the  middle  to  give  the  child  a  footing,  and  a  strap 
or  girdle  below  this,  and  secured  round  the  waist  by  two  large 
wooden  buttons  in  front,  iirevents  the  infipit  from  falling 
through,  when,  the  hood  being  in  use,  it  is  necessary  thus  to 
deposite  it.  The  sleeves  of  the  women's  jackets  are  made 
more  square  and  loose  about  the  shoulders  than  those  of  the 
men,  for  the  convenience  of  more  readily  depositing  a  child 
in  the  hood;  and  they  have  a  habit  of  slipping  their  arms  out 
of  tiiern,  and  keeping  them  in  contact  with  tlieir  bodies,  for 
the  sake  of  warmth,  just  as  we  do  with  our  lingers  in  our 
gloves  in  very  cold  weather. 

In  iriiitfii;  every  individual,  when  in  the  open  air,  wears  two 
jackets,  of  which  the  outer  one  has  the  hair  outside,  and  the  in- 
ner one  next  to  the  body.  On  entering  the  hut,  ll-.e  outer  gar- 
ment is  removed.  Their  legs  and  feet  are  so  well  clothed  that 
no  degree  of  cold  can  well  yffect  them.  "When  a  ninu  goes  on 
a  scaling  exclusion,  he  lirst  puts  on  a  pair  of  deer  skin  boot.s 
with  the  hair  inside  and  reaching  to  the  knee,  where  they  tie. 
Over  these  come  a  pair  of  shoes  of  the  same  material ;  next, 
a  |iair  of  dressed  .sealskin  boots  perfectly  water  tight;  and 
over  all  a  corresponding  |)air  of  shoes,  tying  round  the  instep. 
The  Esfiuimaux,  wijen  thus  equipjied,  may  at  all  times  bid  de- 
fiance to  the  rigor  of  this  inhospitable  climate;  and  nothing 
can  exceed  the  comfortable  appearance  which  they  exhibit 
even  in  the  UKjst  inclement  weather. 

The  most  common  orvavi put  consists  in  stringsof  teeth,  some- 
times many  hundred  in  luimbcr,  which  are  either  attached  to 
the  lower  part  of  the  jacket  like  fring(>,  or  fastened  as  a  belt 
rouufl  the  waist.  Most  of  the  teeth  arc  of  the  fox  and  wolf. 
Tattooing,  or  marking  the  body,  is  common  among  them,  and 
considered  highly  ornamental.  No  woman  is  without  them. 
Tiie  parts  of  the  body  thus  marked  aic  their  fac(\s,  arms,  hands, 
tlii'^hs,  and  in  some  few  women  the  breasts,  but  never  the  feet, 
as  in  CJreenland.  The  operation  is  expeditiously  managed  by 
passing  a  needle  and  thread,  the  latter  covered  with  lampblack 
and  oil,  under  the  epidermLs,  according  to  a  pattern,  previously 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  71 

ORNAMENTS. HOUSES. 

marked  out  upon  the  skin.  Several  stitches  being  thus  taken  at 
once,  the  thumb  is  pressed  upon  the  part,  while  the  thread  is 
drawn  through,  by  which  means  the  coloring  matter  is  retained, 
and  a  permanent  dye  of  a  blue  tinge  imparted  to  the  skin.  A 
woman  expert  at  this  business  will  perform  it  very  quickly  and 
with  great  regularity,  but  seldom  without  drawing  blood  in 
many  places,  and  occasioning  some  inflammation. 

The  houses  of  the  Esquimaux  vary  in  the  different  tribes  ;  oa 
the  shores  that  have  drift  wood,  the  dwellings  are  of  that  ma- 
terial. Generally,  the  summer  dwellings  are  tents  of  skins, 
supported  by  a  single  pole  in  the  middle.  The  entrance  is 
made  by  t^vo  flaps  that  overlap  each  other.  But  in  winter,  the 
very  monuments  of  the  severity  of  the  climate  serve  as  a  de- 
fence from  its  rigor  ;  and  for  many  months  in  the  year,  the  na- 
tives lie  under  edifices  of  snow  and  ice,  which  are  the  warmest 
and  firmest,  when  most  required  to  be  warm  and  firm.  To- 
wards spring  only,  they  become  subject  to  dripping,  and  the  in- 
habitants remove  to  their  tents,  before  their  houses  become 
insecure.  The  snow  huts  are  of  a  regular  ciicular  form,  and 
are  in  fact  domes,  as  completely  arched  as  those  of  the  Pan- 
theon, or  St.  Peter.  They  are  erected  in  a  shoit  time;  slabs 
about  six  inches  in  thickness,  and  two  feet  in  length  are  cut 
from  the  hard  compact  snow,  and  laid  in  a  circle  of  from  eight 
to  fifteen  feet  in  diameter.  Upon  these  is  laid  another  tier 
inclining  a  little  inward,  and  other  layers  are  successively 
placed,  until  nothing  remains  but  the  key-stone,  which  is  artfully 
adapted.  Tiie  inner  edges  oflhe  blocks  are  smoothed  off  with 
a  knife.  The  height  of'the  dome  is  often  ten  feet.  In  con- 
structing it,  one  man  stands  within  to  place  the  materials, 
which  ai'e  supplied  by  anotner  from  witiiout.  A  little  Vv'ater  for 
cement  is  sometimes  poured  upon  the  joints,  and  it  instantly 
becomes  solid  ice.  The  door  is  cut  througii  the  southern  side, 
and  the  entrance  is  by  a  covered  way  twenty  or  thirty  feet  long. 
When  there  ai-e  more  families  than  one  living  together,  several 
snow  huts  are  built  around  a  common  dome,  and  communicate 
with  it  by  doors.  The  light  is  admitted  through  a  window  of 
clear  ice  four  inches  in  thickness,  and  tvro  feet  in  diameter;  this 
light  is  very  soft  and  agreeable,  like  that  which  passes  through 
ground  glass. 

A  banlf  of  ice  or  snow  is  raised  nearly  around  the  whole 
apartment,  and  this  is  the  foundation  of  the  beds  and  fireplaces. 
For  the  beds,  this  bank  is  ccTvered  Vvith  stones,  paddles,  blades 
of  whalebone,  and  twigs ;  ov^er  these  are  spread  so  many 
skins  that  the  beds  are  both  Warm  and  dry.  The  only  fire 
used  in  this  severe  climate,  is  that  of  a  lamp  to  each  family. 
The  lamp  is  a  shallow  stone  vessel  with  a  wick  of  dry  moss 
disposed  round  the  edge.  The  length  of  this  is  eighteen  inches, 
and  when  it  is  all  lighted,  produces  a  brilliant  light,  without 
smoke  'or- scent.  It  is  fi?d  by  the  drippings  of  a  piece  of  blub- 
ber suspended  over  it.     Around  the  lampis  suspended  a  frame. 


72  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

ESQUIMAUX. 


which  is  covered  with  garments  to  be  dried  ;  for  whenever  an 
Esquimaux  comes  in.  he  takes  ofT  his  outward  jacket  and 
mittens,  brushes  off  the  snow,  and  han,t];s  them  by  tiie  lamp. 
The  only  vessel  for  cooking  is  a  stone  pot,  wiiicii  is  suspended 
over  the  lamp  ;  and  the  principal  disiies  for  food,  are  a  wooden 
tray,  a  cup  of  the  horn  of  the  musk  ox,  and  a  vessel  made  of 
skins  laced  tightly  over  a  frame.* 

.  In  enume'raling  the  articles  of  their  food.,  we  might  perhaps 
give  a  list  of  every  animal  inhabiting  these  regions,  as  they 
certainly  will  at  times  eat  any  one  of  them.  Tlieir  principal 
dejiendance,  however,  is  on  the  rein  deer,  musk  ox,  in  the  parts 
where  this  animal  is  found  ;  whale,  walrus,  the  large  and  small 
seal,  and  two  sorts  of  salmon.  The  latter  is  taken  by  hooks  in 
fresh  water  lakes,  and  the  former  by  spearing  in  the  shoal  water 
of  curtain  inlets  of  the  sea.  Of  ail  these  animals,  they  can  only 
])rocure  in  the  winter  the  walrus  and  small  seal  upon  this  part 
of  the  coast;  and  these,  at  times,  in  scarcely  sufficient  quan- 
tity for  their  subsistence. 

In  general,  they  prefer  eating  their  meat  cooked,  and  while 
they  have  fuel,  tiiey  usually  boil  it;  but  this  is  a  luxury,  and 
not  a  necessary  to  them.  Oily  as  the  nature  of  their  princi- 
pal food  is,  yet  they  conmionly  take  an  efiual  proportion  of 
leau  to  their  fat,  .tiid  unless  very  hungry,  do  not  eat  it  other- 
wise. Oil  they  seldom  or  never  use  in  any  way,  as  a  part  of 
their  general  diet;  and  even  our  butter,  of  which  they  were 
f Hid^  they  would  nqt  eat,  without  a  due  quantity  of'bread. 
Tiicy  do  not  lii;c  salt  meat  as  well  as  fresh,  and  never  use  salt 
tlieniselves  ;  but  ship's  pork,  or  even  red  herring,  did  not  come 
amiss  to  them.  Of  ))ea-soup  they  would  eat  as  much  as  the 
sailors  could  afford  to  give  them  ;  and  that  word  was  the  only 
one,  with  tlie  exception  of  our  nanifs,  w  liich  many  of  them 
ever  learned  in  English.  Among  their  own  luxuries,  must  be 
'mentioned  a  rich  soup  called  Icdyt),  made  of  blood,  gravy,  and 
water,  and  eaten  quite  hot. 

Their  only  driiik  is  water  ;  and  of  this,  when  they  can  pro- 
cmc  it,  they  swallow  an  inconceivable  quantity;  so  that  one 
of  the  principal  occupations  of  the  woVnen,  during  the  winter,  is 
the  thawing  of  sriow  iji  the  notkooscikft,  or  stone  })ots,  for  thi.s 
purpose.  Tliey  cut  it  into  thin  slices,  and  an-  careful  to  have 
it  clean,  on  which  account  Ihoy  will  bring  it  from  a  distance  of 
fifty  yards  from  the  huts.  They  have  an  extreme  dislike  to 
drinking  water  much  above  the  temperature  of  32".  In  «'ating 
tlieir  Meals,  the  mistress  of  the  fimily,  having  previou.sly 
cooked  the  meat,  takes  a  large  lumj)  out  of  the  pot  with  her 
fingers,  and  hancXs  it  to  her  husband,  who  placing  a  part  of  it 
between  his  teeth,  cuts  it  off  with  a  large  knife  in  that  position, 
ancl  then  passes  the  knife  and  meat  together  to  hisnext  neigh- 
fK>r.     In  cutting  off  a  mouthful  of  meat,  the  knife  passes  s.b 

♦  Goodrich's  Universal  Gcogrophv. 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  73 

AMUSEMENTS. — (JANOES. 

close  to  their  lips,  that  nothing  but  constant  habit  could  ensure 
them  fiom  the  danger  of  the  most  terrible  gashes ;  and  it  would 
make  an  English  mother  shudder  to  see  the  manner  in  which 
children,  five  or  six  years  old,  are  at  all  times  freely  trusted 
with  a  knife  to  be  used  in  this  way. 

The  most  common  amusement  which  Capt.  Pariy  noticed,  he 
describes  as  follows  :  The  females,  being  collected  to  the  num- 
ber of  ten  or  twelve,  stood  in  as  large  a  circle  as  the  hut  would 
admit,  with  Okotook  in  the  centre.  He  began  by  a  sort  of 
half-howling,  half-singing  noise,  which  appeared  as  if  designed 
to  call  the  attention  of  the  women  ;  the  latter  soon  commenced 
a  song  called  the  Anna  Aya.  This  they  continued  without  va- 
riety, remaining  quite  still  while  Okotook  walked  round  within 
the  circle  ;  his  body  was  rather  bent  forward,  his  eyes  some- 
times closed,  his  arms  constantly  moving  up  and  down,  and 
now  and  then  hoarsely  vociferating  a  word  or  two,  as  if  to  in- 
crease the  animation  of  the  singers,  who,  whenever  he  did  this, 
quitted  the  chorus  and  rose  into  the  words  of  the  song.  At  the 
end  often  minutes,  they  all  left  off  at  once,  and  after  one  minute's 
interval,  commenced  a  second  act,  precisely  similar  and  of 
equal  duration,  Okotook  continuing  to  invoke  their  muse  as 
before.  A  third  act,  wiiich  followed" this,  varied  only  in  his  fre- 
quently, towards  the  close,  throwing  his  feet  up  before  and  clap- 
ping his  hands  together,  by  which  exertion  he  was  thrown  into 
a  violent  perspiration.  He  then  retired,  desiring  a  young  tnan 
(who  as  we  were  informed  was  the  only  individual  of  several 
then  present  thus  qualified)  to  take  his  place  in  the  centre,  as 
master  of  the  ceremonies,  when  the  same  antics  as  before 
were  again  gone  through.  After  this  description,  it  will  scarce- 
ly be  necessary  to  remark,  that  nothing  can  be  poorer  in  its 
way  than  this  tedious  singing  recreation,  which,  as  well  as 
every  thing  in  which  dancing  is  concerned,  they  express  by 
the  word  momek-poke.  They  seem,  however,  to  take  great  de- 
light in  it ;  and  even  a  number  of  the  men,  as  well  as  all  the 
children,  crept  into  the  hut  by  degrees,  to  peep  at  the  perform- 
ance. 

Their  canoes,  observes  M'Keevor,  whose  description  fol- 
lows, are  deserving  of  particular  attention,  as  well  from  the 
peculiarity  of  their  form,  as  for  the  neatness,  and  even  ele- 
gance, Vi-ith  which  they  are  constructed.  They  are  in  general 
about  twenty  feet  long,  two  feet  broad  at  the  widest  pai't,  and 
of  an  oblong  shape.  The  frame-work  is  made  of  pieces  of 
wood  or  whalebone,  fastened  together  by  means  of  the  sinews 
of  animals;  they  are  covered  with  seal-skin  parchment  all 
over,  with  the  exception  of  a  central  aperture,  which  is  left 
large  enough  to  admit  the  body  of  a  man;  into  this  the  Esqui- 
maux thrusts  himself  up  to  the  waist,  his  feet  being  stretched 
forward.  To  the  central  opening  a  flat  hoop  is  ntted,  rismt?. 
about  a  couple  of  inches ;  to  this  a  skin  is  attached,  which  ht 
7 


74  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

ESaUIMAUX. 

fiistens  so  tight  about  liim  as  to  exclude  all  wet ;  the  rim  also 
serves  the  purjinse  ofpreventiiiir  any  water,  wiiich  may  liavo 
lodged  on  the  deck,  from  aettinii;  into  the  canoe.  The  patlille 
of  the  Esqnimaiix  is  al)out  ten  feet  krn;j;  narrow  in  the  centre  j 
hroad  and  iiat  at  either  extremity:  when  seated  in  his  canoe, 
lie  takes  hold  of  it  by  the  centre,  dips  eithei-  end  in  the  water 
alternately,  and  tlais  he  moves  with  incredible  celerity;  so 
g)-eat,  indet;d,  tliat  an  English  boat,  with  twelve  oars,  is  not 
able  to  keep  up  with  him.  The  broad  flat  part  is  generally 
inlaid,  in  a  very  tasty  and  fanciful  manner,  with  ]iortions  of 
se.-i-horse  teeth,  cut  into  a  variety  of  forms. 

The  dexterity  v/ith  which  they  manage  these  canoes  is  real- 
ly astonishing.  No  weather  can  prevent  them  from  going  out 
to  sea  ;  they  venture  out  in  the  midst  of  tempestuous  whirl- 
winds, and  driving  snows,  witli  na  much  comi)Osure  as  if  it 
were  a  perfect  calm.  Even  though  the  sea  should  break  over 
them,  in  an  instant  they  arc  again  seen  flying  along  the  ridge 
of  the  wave. 

In  esliniatiiicr  the  characler  of  the  E.squimaux  whom  Capt. 
Parry  saw,  he  ol.vserves,  that  in  their  transactions  among  them- 
selves, with  few  exceptions,  the  strictest  honesty  prevails,  and 
in  the  early  part  of  his  intercourse  with  them,  the  impression 
derived  fiom  their  conduct  was  a  favo)-able  one.  Many  in- 
stances occurred,  where  they  appr-ared  even  scrupulous  in  re- 
turning articles  that  did  not  belong  to  them;  and  this,  too, 
when  detection  of  a  theft,  or  at  lea.st  of  the  offender,  would 
have  been  next  to  impossible.  As  they  grew  more  familiar, 
and  the  temptations  became  .stronger,  they  gradually  relaxed 
in  their  honesty,  and  petty  thefts  were  from  time  to  time  com- 
mitted by  several  individiiai.-i,  both  male  and  female.  Due  al- 
l()wanc(\  however,  he  adds,  should  be  made  for  the  tempta- 
tion to  which  they  v.ere  daily  exposed,  amidst  the  boundless 
stores  of  weallii  whicli  our  sliips  appeared  to  them  to  furnish. 

Among  the  unffivorahlc  trails  of  their  character  must  be 
reckoned  an  extreiue  dispo.sition  to  envy.  U  we  had  made 
any  |)re.'-ents  in  one  hut,  oljserves  the  same  writer,  the  inmates 
of  the  next  would  not  fill  to  tell  us  of  it,  accompanying  their 
remarks  with  some  satirical  observations,  too  inicquivocally 
expressed  to  l)e  mi>taken,  and  generally  by  some  stroke  of 
irony  directed  against  the  favored  person.  And  it  was  not 
uncommon  to  see  a  group  of  wf)nien  sitting  in  a  hut  for  hours 
logetl)er,  making  some  absent  person  the  subject  of  their  joke 
and  ridicule;  now  and  then  miiuicking  thi*  person  of  whom 
they  spoke  to  their  great  satisfaction  and  amusement. 

Another  equally  unfavorable  trait  is  tUc'ir  hi ^nititude.  Even 
children  appear  to  indulge  f.-v.' sentiments  fif  kindness  towarns 
tiieir  |)arents,  and  in  no  ca.se  .';ca)cely,  on  receiving  a  present 
from  n-;  would  they  condescend  to  thank  us.  Sellishness  is 
iii  fact  ahuo.~t  without  exception  i!;-'ir  miiversal  characteristic, 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  75 

CHARACTER. 

and  the  main  spring  of  all  their  actions,  and  that,  too,  of  a 
kind  the  most  direct  and  unamiable  that  can  be  imagined. 

In  the  few  opportunities  we  had  to  put  their  hospitality  tp 
the  test,  we  had  every  reason  to  be  pleased  with  them.  Both 
as  to  food  and  accommodation,  the  best  they  had  were  always 
at  our  service ;  and  their  attention,  both  in  kind  and  degree, 
was  every  thing  that  hospitality  and  even  good  breeding  could 
dictate.  The  kindly  olfices  of  drying  and  mending  our  clothes, 
■cooking  our  provision,  and  thawing  snov^^  for  our  drink,  were 
pei-fonned  by  the  women  with  an  obliging  cheerfulness,  whicli 
we  shaU  not  easily  forget,  and  which  commanded  its  due  share 
of  admiration  and  esteem. 

The  estimation  in  which  voinen  Gre  held  among  these  people 
is,  1  think,  somewhat  greater  than  is  usual  in  savage  life.  In. 
their  general  employments,  they  are  by  no  means  the  drudges 
that  the  wives  of  the  Greenlanders  are  said  to  be;  being  oc- 
cupied only  in  those  cares  which  may  properly  be  called  do- 
mestic, and  such  as  are  considered  the  peculiar  business  of 
the  women  among  the  lov/er  classes  in  civilized  society.  The 
wife  of  one  of  these  people,  for  instance,  makes  and  attends 
the  fire,  cooks  the  victuals,  looks  after  the  children,  and  is 
sempstress  to  her  whole  family;  while  her  husband  is  labor- 
ing abroad  for  their  subsistence. 

The  most  laborious  of  their  tasks  occurs  perhaps  in  making 
their  various  journeys,  when  ail  their  goods  and  chattels  are 
to  be  removed  at  once,  and  when  each  individual  must  un- 
doubtedly perform  a  full  share  of  the  general  labor.  The  wo- 
men, however,  are  good  walkers,  and  not  easily  fatigued ;  for 
we  have  several  times  knov.m  a  young  woman  of  two  and 
twent}^,  with  a  child  in  her  hood,  walk  twelve  miles  to  the 
ships,  and  back  again  the  same  day,  for  the  sake  of  a  little 
bread  dust,  and  a  tin  canister.  When  stationary  in  the  winter, 
£hey  have  really  almost  a  sinecure  of  it,  sitting  quietly  in  their 
huts,  and  having  little  or  no  employment  for  the  greater  part 
of  the  day.  In  short,  there  are  few,  if  any  people,  in  this  state 
of  society,  among  whom  the  women  are  so  vv^ell  off.  They  al- 
ways sit  upon  the  beds  with  their  legs  doubled  under  them, 
and  are  uneasy  in  the  posture  usual  with  us.  The  men  some- 
times sit  as  we  do,  but  more  generally  with  their  legs  crossed 
before  them. 

The  jjcirental  affection  of  this  people  merits  distinguished 
praise.  Nothing  indeed  can  well  exceed  the  kindness  with 
which  they  treat  their  children.  Corporeal  punishment  is  un- 
known, and,  indeed,  there  seldom  appears  any  occasion  for 
•t — the  gentleness  and  docility  of  children  rendering  severity 
towards  them  quite  unnecessary.  Even  from  their  earliest  in- 
fancy, they  possess  that  quiet  disposition,  gentleness  of  de- 
meanor, and  uncommon  evenness  of  temper,  for  which  in 
more  mature  age  they  are  for  the  most  part  distinguished. 
Disobedience  is  scarcely  ever  known,  a  word  or  even  a  look 
from  a  parent  is  enough ;  and  1  never  saw  a  single  instance  of 


76  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

K.Sai'IMALX. 

that  frowardncss  and  disposition  to  niischiof,  whicii,  with  our 
youth,  so  often  requires  the  vvlioie  attention  of  a  parent  to 
\^tch  over  and  to  correct.  Tlicy  never  cry  from  trilhnj;  ac- 
ciaents,  and  sonu'times  not  even  from  very  severe  hurts,  ut 
which  an  Eughsh  child  would  sob  for  an  hour.  It  is  inch-ed 
astonishing  to  see  the  indiihrence  will)  wliich  even  tender  in 
fants  bear  the  numerous  blows  they  accidentally  receive,  when 
carried  at  their  mollu-r's  backs. 

\V'hen  not  more  than  eight  years  old,  the  boys  are  taken  by 
their  fathers  on  their  sealing  excursions,  where  they  begin  to 
learn  their  future  business  ;  and  even  at  that  early  agei  they 
are  occasionally  intrusted  to  bring  home  a  sledge  and  dogs 
from  a  distance  of  several  miles  (jvi-r  the  ice.  At  the  age  of 
eleven,  we  see  a  boy  with  his  water-tight  boots  and  moccasins, 
a  spear  in  his  hand,  and  a  small  coil  of  line  at  his  back,  ac- 
com]>anying  the  men  to  the  fishery,  under  every  circumstance ; 
and  from  this  time  his  services  daily  increase  in  value  to  the 
wliole  tribe. 

'J'liii  ISiedges  which  are  designed  for  expeditious  travelling, 
are  about  two  feet  wide,  and  five  feet  long.  Those,  however, 
which  are  designed  for  carrying  burdens,  are  from  six  to  eleven 
feet  in  length.  The  runners  are  sometimes  made  of  the  right 
and  left  jaw  bones  of  a  whale,  but  generally  of  several  pieces 
of  wood  or  bone  lashed  together,  with  the  interstices  stuffed 
with  moss,  and  the  whole  secured  by  a  coating  of  ice  field  to- 
gether by  the  severity  of  the  climate. 

Dogs  are  employed  in  drawing  these  sledfjes,  which  they  do 
often  at  the  rate  of  twelve  miles  an  hour.  Ten  dogs  make  a 
full  team.  Three  (loii;s  once  drew  Captain  Lyon  on  a  sledge 
weighing  one  hundred  pounds,  a  mile  in  six  minutes.  On  a 
good  surface,  six  or  seven  dogs  draw  nc^arly  a  thousand  weight 
sixty  miles  in  a  d;;y.  When  there  is  no  snow,  tin;  dogs  are 
made  to  carry  Inirdens  of  about  twenty-five  pounds  each  in  a 
kind  of  paimiers. 

These  dogs,  in  the  form  of  their  bodies,  have  short  pricked 
ears,  thick  furry  coats,  and  biishy  tails,  so  nearly  resen)bling 
thewolfofthe.se  regions,  that  when  f)faliglit  or  brindle  color, 
they  may  easily  at  a  little  di.stanct;  be  mistaken  litr  that  animal. 
The  color  of  the  dogs  varies  from  a  white,  though  briiulled,  to 
black  and  white,  or  almost  entirely  black.  Some  are  also  of 
af  reddish  or  ferrugimius  color,  arul  others  have  a  brownish  red 
tinge  on  their  legs,  the  rest  of^  their  bodies  being  of  a  darker 
color,  and  these  lust  were  observed  to  be  generally  the  best 
dogs.  Their  hair  in  the  winter  is  from  three  to  four  inches 
long  ;  but  besides  this,  nature  furnishes  tlicm  during  this  rigor- 
ous season,  with  a  thick  under-coating  of  close  soft  wool, 
which  theyliegin  to  cast  in  the  spring.  \Vhile  thus  provided, 
they  are  able  to  withstand  the  mo.-tt  inclement  weather  without 
suffering  from  the  cold,  and  at  whatever  temperature  the  at- 
mosphere may  be,  they  require  nothing  but  a  shelter  from  the 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  77 

MARRIAGE. — INTERMENT    OF    THE    DEAD. 

wind  to  make  them  comfortable,  and  even  this  they  do  not  al- 
ways obtain. 

The  Esquimaux  appear  to  have  no  idea  of  the  existence  of 
one  Supreme  Beinaj,  nor  can  they  be  said  to  entertain  any 
notions  on  this  subject,  which  may  be  dignified  with  the  name 
of  religion.  Their  superstitions  are  numerous,  but  all  of  them 
'have  reference  to  the  supernatural  agency  of  a  number  of  spii'- 
its,  with  whom,  on  certain  occasions,  their  sorcerers  pretend 
to  hold  mysterious  intercourse,  and  who  in  various  and  dis- 
tinct vv-ays  are  supposed  to  preside  over  the  destinies  of  the 
Esquimaux.  On  particular  occasions  of  sickness  or  want  of 
food,  the  sorcerers  contrive  by  means  of  a  darkened  hut,  a 
peculiar  modulation  of  voice,  and  the  uttering  of  a  variety  of 
-unintelligible  sounds,  to  persuade  their  countrymen  that  they 
are  descending  to  the  lower  regions,  for  this  purpose,  where 
they  force  the  spirits  to  communicate  the  desired  information. 
The  superstitious  reverence  in  which  these  wizards  are  held, 
and  a  considerable  degree  of  ingenuity  with  which'  they  per- 
forin their  mummery,  prevent  the  detection  of  the  imposture, 
and  secure  implicit  confidence  in  these  absurd  oracjes. 

The  vuirringe  ceremovi;  among  the  Esquimaux  appears  to 
be  very  simpl-e,  consisting  only  "in  the  husband  coming,  when 
tlesired,  to  the  h\it  or  tent  of  the  bride's  father,  and  taking  her 
to  his  own  by  force.  The  reluctance  of  the  bride,  which  in 
most  cases  is  of  course  feigned,  is  expected  to  be  strongly 
manifested,  and  serves  as  an  occasion  of  no  small  sport  and 
amusement. 

In  this  connexion,  it  may  be  added,  that  the  custom  of  be- 
trothing children  in  their  infancy  is  comm-only  practiced -here. 
The  men  seldom  take  more  than  two  wives  ;  but  there  is  gene- 
rally a  difference  of  five  or  six  years  in  their  ages.  The  senior 
AvifeHakes  her  station  next  to  the  principal  fire,  which  comes 
directly  under  her  management.  In  some  respects,  she  is 
considered  superior  to  the  other,  though  they  usually  live  to- 
gether in  the  utmost  harmony. 

In  the  interment  of  their  dead,  the  Esquimaiij:  take  very  little 
care,  especially  in  the  Vviuter  season.  This  appears  to  arise 
from  some  superstitious  notions,  and  particularly  from  the  be- 
lief, that  any  weight  upon  the  corpse  wouldhave  an  injurious 
effect  upon  the  deceased,  in  a  future  state  of  existence ;  for 
oven  in  summer,  when  it  v.-ould  be  an  easy  matter  to  secure  a 
body  from  the  depredations  of  Vv'iid  animals,  the  mode  of  burial 
is  not  essentially  difierent.  The  corpse  of  a  child  observed  by 
Lieutenant  Palmer,  he  describes  as  being  laid  in  a  regular,  but 
shallow  grave,  with  his  liead  to  the  northeast.  It  was  decent- 
ly dresse'd  in  a  good  deer-skin  jacket,  and  a  seal  skin  prepared 
without  the  hair  was  carefully  placed  as  a  cover  to  the  whole 
figure ;  and  tucked  in  on  all  sides.  The  body  was  covered 
7* 


78  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

GREENLAND. 

with  Hat  iiifcos  of  lime  stone,  which  however  were  so  lijrhtthat 
a  fox  inJL^ht  easily  iiave  removed  them.  Near  the  grave,  were 
four  Httle  separate  piles  of  stones,  not  more  than  a  foot  in 
heiu;ht,  in  one  of  which  we  noticed  a  piece  of  red  cloth,  and  a 
black  silk  handkerchief,  in  the  second  a  pair  of  child's  boots 
and  mittens,  and  in  each  of  the  others  a  whalebone  pot.  The 
face  of  the  child  looked  unusually  clean  and  fresh,  and  a  few 
days  only  could  have  elapsed  since  its  decease. 

Captain  Parry  informs  us,  that  he  once  witnessed  the  man- 
ner in  which  an  Esiiuimaux  proceeded  on  the  occasion  of  his 
wife's  death.  First,  he  prepared  to  dress  the  dead  body,  by 
stopping  his  nose  with  deer's  hair.  Having  done  which,  he 
put  on  his  gloves,  from  an  evident  wish  not  to  touch  the  corpse 
with  his  naked  hand.  Every  part  of  the  dress  was  carefully 
adjusted  as  when  she  was  living.  The  grave  prepared  was 
about  one  foot  in  flepth,  and  when  the  body  was  placed  in  it, 
the  hu.sband  cut  all  the  stitches  of  the  hammock  or  wrapper, 
in  which  the  body  had  been  enclosed  by  the  English.  The 
death  of  a  child  soon  followed  that  of  the  mother.  This  was 
buried  at  some  distance  from  the  mother,  the  husband  assign- 
ing as  a  reason,  that  the  mother  would  cry  in  her  grave  if  prcss' 
ed  by  her  infant.  Toys  and  presents  were  buried  with  it. 
The  three  following  days,  the  father  and  the  rest  of  the  family 
neither walked  abroad  nor  performed  any  kind  of  work.  Even 
the  necessary  ablutions  of  tlieir  hands  and  faces  were  neglected. 
At  the  expiration  of  three  days,  he  visited  the  grave  of  his  wife, 
whom  he  addressed  in  conversation,  telling  her  how  the  wind 
blew,  looking  at  the  same  time  in  the  direction  from  which  it 
came.  He  next  broke  forth  in  a  low  monotonous  chant,  and 
keeping  his  eyes  lixed  on  the  grave,  walked  slowly  round  in 
the  direction  of  the  sun  four  or  five  times,  and  at  each  circuit 
stopped  a  few  moments  at  the  head.  At  the  i>.xpiration  of 
about  eight  minutes,  he  stopped,  and  turnini:;  suddenly  roimd 
to  me,  oxclaimed  *'  Tugira"  (that's  enough,)  and  began  walk- 
ing back  to  the  sliip.- 


5.  GREENLAND. 


In  slnturc^  the  firrrnhitiders  seldom  exceed  five  feet,  and 
from  their  mannei-  of  livinu:  are  inclined  to  be  fat.  Their  face 
is  large  and  broad,  the  tu)se  not  very  liat,  butsn)alland  short; 
tlie  nostrils  somewhat  wide.  Die  cheek  hones  high,  the  cheeks 
round  and  pluni|i.  The  face  freqn(<iitly  appears  fallen  in,  (]uite 
across  between  the  temples.  The  ll)reh(rad  is  low,  the  eyes 
small,  black,  dull,  and  drooping,  but  having  the  power  to  dis- 
tuiguisii  accurately  at  a  great  distance.  The  eyelids  are 
drawn  towards  the  temples  ;  the  mouth  is  generally  small,  and 
roimd  ;  the  tiM'th  reL:;ular,  and  be.iutifully  white  ;  the  li|)s  thick, 
and  tur_'-.?d  outwards  ;  tlie  under  lip  somewhat  thicker  than 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  79 

CHARACTER. HUNTING  AND  FISHING. 

the  Upper.  Their  beai'ds  and  eyebrows  are  thin,  but  they  have 
abundance  of  hair  on  the  head,  which  is  black,  long-,  coarse, 
and  straight.  Their  -necks  are  short,  their  legs  thin,  but  their 
feet  and  hands  are  small  and  well  formed;  their  heads  are 
uncommonly  large.  The  shape  of  the  women  is  similar  to 
that  of  the  men,  and  they  resemble  them  so  nearly,  that  one 
cannot  at  tirst  distinguish  the  sexes,  the  dresses  being  nearly 
the  same.  The  appearance  of  the  women  is  by  no  means 
feminine ;  they  have  high  breasts  and  broad  shoulders,  being 
accustomed  when  young  to  labor  hard,  and  carry  great  bur- 
dens.. The  Greenlanders  are  of  a  yellowish  gra)^  color,  which 
approfiches  somewhat  to  olive  green  ;  but  this  may  be  attrib- 
uted not  only  to  the  climate,  but  to  their  dirty  liabits,  and  to 
the  great  quantity  of  smoke  and  soot  which  their  houses  con- 
tain ;  for  their  children  are  born  as  white  as  any  European 
child. 

The  Greenlanders  are  XTery  sociable;  although  they  do  not 
live  in  towns  or  villages,  they  like  to  visit  and  to  be  visited.  A 
man  or  woman  never  pays  a  visit  to  a  person  residing  at  a 
distance,  without  making  some  present,  either  a  skin  or  fowl 
or  some  sinew.  -They  are  fond  of  making  bargains,  and  often 
part  with  their  most  useful  utensils  in  exchange  for  trifles,  par- 
ticularly to  satisfy  the  caprice  of  their  wives.  No  one  desires 
to  usurp  any  auuhority  over  another,  to  make  regulations  for 
him,  or  to  call  him  to  account  for  his  actions  ;  for  as  they  have 
no  riches,  one  individual  supports  another,  the  helpless  finds 
refuge  in  the  house  of  the  more  fortunate,  withouL  being  rela- 
ted to  him,  and  each  Greenlander  has  his  landed  property 
where  lie  resides.  They  may  therefore  change  their  residen- 
ces as  often  as  they  like.  Whatever  the  sea  drives  on  shore, 
particularly  lioating  timber,  is  the  property  of  him  who  has 
taken  it  up  and  brought  it  on  shore.  Notwithstanding,  how- 
ever, their  honesty  towards  each  other,  they  are  not  scrupu- 
lous in  stealing  from  Europeans. 

■■  The  Greenlanders  are  very  dexteroi's  in  hiintimr  and  fishing,, 
and  upon  this  dexterity  they  are  often  dependant  for  their  food, 
which  consists  for  the  most  part  of  fish,  seals,  and  sea-fowls. 
In  their  manner  of  preparing  and  eating  this  food,  they  are 
trul}^  disgui=^^ting.  Train  oil  is  their  sauce,  and  though  water 
is  their  ordinary  beverage,  they  preier  the  blood  of  the  seal  to 
any  other  liquid.  A  vessel  isseldom  washed  by  them.  The  co- 
lor and  the  odor  of  the  last  dish  removes  that  of  the  former  one. 
They  lay  their  boiled  meat  in  wooden  dishes,  of  lir  wood,  made 
by  themselves,  which  are  never  cleansed ;  and  first  drink  the 
soup,  or  eat  it  with  spoons  made  of  bones  or  wood.  Their 
undressed  meat  lies  on  the  bare  ground,  or  an  old  seal  skin. 
They  have  no  determined  time  for  dinner,  or  supper;  but 
when  the  men  of  the  house  return  with  the  game,  which  gen- 
erally happens  in  the  evening,  part  of  the  day's  spoil  isimme- 


80  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

GREENLAND. 

diately  boiled,  and  all  the  people  who  live  in  the  nci'^hborhood 
are  invited. 

The  men  pet  their  mp;il  first,  sitlini;  upon  the  Gjronnd  round 
a  large  wooden  dish,  and  takiiij?  the  meat  with  tlieir  lingers. 
When  this  is  over,  the  women  begin  in  the  same  style,  but  at 
the  opposite  end  of  the  house.  If  there  be  an  Ein<ip(>;in  guest 
or  any  other  stranger  present,  tiie  wojj3fUi  of  the  house  takes 
a  piece  from  the  kettle,  licks  it  clean  from  blood  and  scum, 
and  presents  it  to  him  with  her  own  hands.  It  would  be  con- 
sidered a  high  degree  of  impoliteness  to  decline  it. 

•  In  winlr.r  they  live  in  /ioiises,  and  in  summer  int(>nts.  When 
the  summer  is  over,  which  is  generally  at  the  end  of  August, 
the  women  belonging  to  the  family  or  to  tlie  liouse  euiploy 
themselves  in  repairing  an  old,  or  in  building  a  new  housie. 
This  is  done  in  a  few  days;  and  the  labor  resembles  the  live- 
liness of  an  ant-hill.  Some  carry  stones,  some  bring  sod  ; 
several  otiiers  convey  turf,  timber,  shrubs,  or  earth.  The 
walls  are  made  of  water-worn  stones,  put  together  with  turf 
or  sod,  in^l(»ad  of  mortar  ;  ami  the  roof  is  formed  of  a  species 
of  floating  timber.  It  is  flat,  and  is  covered  with  shrubs,  turf 
or  sod,  with  eartli.  The  stones  are  taken  from  the  shores,  a.-* 
they  never  build  a  house  at  a  greater  di.stance  from  the  sea 
than  tw<Mity  or  thirty  paces;  the  timbers  are  j)icked  up  from 
the  sea  liuringthe  summer.  Their  houses  are  sometimes  reg- 
ular, sometimes  oblong  squares;  being  from  twelve  to  eight»>ejs 
feet  in  length,  and  from  ten  to  twefve  feet  in  breadth.  The 
•lieight  is  generally  six  feet.  The  walls  are  at  their  base  two 
feet,  and  on  the  top  one  fool  thick.  The  entrance  is  usually 
under  the  earth,  two  feet  high,  two  feet  broad,  and  from  twelve 
to  lift(>ea  feet  h'Ug.  It  is  in  the  centre  of  the  hous;',  and  gen- 
erally faces  the  snulh.  The  house  has  no  door,  and  one  must 
always  creep  in  on  hands  and  feet.  Above  the  entrance  is 
one,  and  sometimes  two  windows,  which  are  made  of  the  in- 
testines of  whales,  dolphins,  or  seals,  sewed  together.  Tbe 
"house  consists  of  only  om,'  room,  at  the  back  of  wiiicl;  there  is 
a  kind  of  stage,  raised  from  oiu-  foot  to  one  and  a  half  from 
the  ground,  and  extending  the  whole  length  of  the  house.  It  is 
covered  with  seal  skin,  and  is  u.-ed  as  a  bench,  chair,  table, 
and  bedstead. 

The  tinie  of  removing  frojii  their  houses  to  their  tents  is  not 
exactly  fixed.  It  fakes  place  generally  at  the  end  of  April,  or 
in  the  middle  of  May,  as  the  snow  melts  sooner  or  later;  and 
it  freijuently  happens  that  part  of  the  badly  supported  loof  of 
the  hou.se  gives  way  and  falls  down,  an  accident  which  forces 
them  to  remove  to  their  summer  place.  The  tents  are  larger 
and  smaller,  in  proportion  to  the  size  of  the  family  and  its  mr- 
tune  ;  but  rarely  exceeding  the  length  of  twelve  feet,  and  the 
breadth  of  tea  feet.  A  wall  one  loot  high  is  first  made  ol 
stones  and  sods,  on  which  they  rest  the  j)oles,  wliich  form  an 
acute  angled  triangle  with  the  ground.     The  poles  are  then 


UNTVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  81 

CANOES. 


covered  with  seal  skin  ;  and  a  curtain  is  placed  before  the  en- 
trance, made  from  the  intestines  qf  the  whale,  dolphin,  or  seal. 
The  bed  places  are  similar  to  those  in  tlieir  houses.  The  tents 
are,  like  the  houses,  near  the  shore,  as  the  sea  supplies  them 
with  all  their  wants,  and  the  seal  provides  them  with  all  the 
necessaries  of  life. 

Tlieir  canoes  are  of  iico  different  sorts  ;  the  one  large  and 
open,  the  other  small  and  covered.  The  framing  of  both  con- 
sists of  slender  pieces  of  v.'ood,  covered  on  the  outside  with 
skins  of  seal  sewed  together.  The  wooden  framing  is  joined 
by  thongs,  cut  from  seal  skins,  or  by  thinly  shaved  whalebone. 
This  manner  of  putting  them  together,  gives  to  the  canoes  so 
great  a  degree  of  flexibility,  or  rather  elasticity,  that  they  very 
seldom  can  go  to  pieces  eve«  in  the  most  boisterous  sea.  The 
large  canoe  called  umiak,  or  the  canoe  for  women,  is  general- 
ly twenty-four  or  thirty  feet  long,  four  or  five  feet  wide,  and 
two  or  three  feet  deep,  terminating  acutely  at  both  ends.  The 
bottom  is  flat.  It  is  used  in  summer  to  traiisport  the  whole 
family,  and  its  utensils  and  tent,  from  one  place  to  another  j 
and  is  in  the  evening  always  taken  up  on  land,  in  order  to  be 
dried,  repaired,  and  varnished  on  the  outside  with  old  thick 
rancid  oil,  called  Minnek,  to  prevent  the  water  from  penetra- 
ting the  seams. 

The  other  small  canoe  is  called  kajak,  and  is  only  used  by 
the  men  ;  it  is  sharp  at  both  ends,  and  its  entire  shape  and  ap- 
pearance is  not  tinlike  a  weaver's  shutde.  It  is  from  four  to 
five  yards  in  length  from  one  extremity  to  the  other,  about  a 
foot  and  a  half  wide  in  the  middle,  and  scarcelv  one  foot  in 
depth.  In  its  centre  is  a  round  hole,  with  a  prominent  ring  of 
bone  or  wood,  in  which  the  man  seats  himself,  and  fastens  the 
under  part  of  his  frock  round  that  ring,  forming  thus  one  body 
with  his  canoe.  Under  his  kajak,  he  has  his  instruments, 
striking  the  sea  alternately  on  both  sides  with  a  paddle  called 
pautik,  four  lingers  broad  at  each  end.  He  can  row  in  a  very 
boisterous  sea,  and  if  ovesturned  by  the  billows,  he  is  able  to 
raise  himself  again.  All  their  sea  game  is  procured  in  these 
small  boats.  The  boy  is  employed  l5y  his  father,  in  his  earli- 
est age,  that  is  in  his  sixth  or  seventh  year,  to  prepare  h,imself 
to  perform  the  business  of  a  man.  The  first  sea  fowl  caught 
by  a  bo}',  gives  occasion  to  a  great  festival  and  dinner  of  the 
family,  for  the  purpose  of  doing  homage  to  the  rising  master 
of  the  house.  In  the  north  of  Greenland,  from  the  70th  degree 
to  the  highest  northern  latitude,  the  inhabitants,  during  the 
winter  season,  make  use  of  sledges  which  are  drawn  by  six 
to  twelve  dogs.  These  they  often  drive  over  the  frozen  sea,  a 
distance  of  fifty,  and  sometimes  more  miles  from  the  land,  to 
the  rifts  and  cliffs  of  the  ice,  where  they  catch  dolphins,  sea- 
unicorns,  and  seals,  which  come  there  in  great  numbers  to  take 
air.    The  spoil  is  carried  home  by  the  assistance  of  the  sledges. 


82  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

GREENLAND. 

The  velocity  of  tlie  doG;s  is  astonishing;  they  may  be  driven 
one  hundred  miles  in  nine  or  ten  hours." 

Two  gamps  of  bull  are  practised  by  tlie  Grcenlanders — one 
roscmblin2;  fiur  foot  b;ill,  and  the  other  a  contest  between  two 
parties  for  the  possession  of  the  ball.  They  have  also  some 
feats  of  strength,  particularly  of  grapplin<jc.  or  hooking  the  fin- 
gers together  and  puiiiiig  in  that  way.  They  also  strike  each 
other  with  the  hand  aiternatcly  on  the  back,  and  this  is  contin- 
ued with  much  severity,  till  one  jiarty  yields.  The  women 
sometimes  dance  in  a  circle  to  the  sound  of  a  drum,  and  to 
singing.  The  dances  of  the  men  are  rather  matches  forgiin- 
ning  and  grimaces,  in  which  the  one  tries  to  outdo  the  other  in 
making  hideous  faces  and  assuming  grotesque  attitudes.  The 
great  season  for  rejoicing;  is  on  the  return  of  the  sun,  and  the 
sun  feasts  are  held  by  all;  at  these  the  viands  of  the  country 
are  furnished  in  ci;reat  profusion. 

An  amusement  of  a  more  pastoral  kind  is  a  singing  match, 
■to  wliich  one  Greenlander  invites  or  challenges  another.  Th<i 
friends  on  both  sides  assemble,  and  the  chalfenger  and  liis  an- 
tiji;onist  endeavor  to  render  each  other  ridiculous  ;  while  the 
friends  of  each  applaud  their  favorite.  This  struggle  is  con- 
tinued till  one  party  is  exhausteil,  and  the  victory  is  supposed 
to  belong  to  him  who  lias  the  l.ist  word.  Tliey  are  familiar 
with  the  use  of  irony,  which  they  are  obliged  to  use  from  the 
poverty  of  the  language  in  reproachful  winds.  These  singing 
matches  are  said  to  be  managed  with  ujuch  abilily,  and  to 
cibound  in  satire.* 

It  ix  very  singular,  that  the  heathen?  inhabiting  this  country, 
have  no  xcoriihip.  It  was  believed  by  some  navigators,  who 
saw  the  Greenlanders  observing  the  rising  sun  in  the  morning, 
that  they  worsiiipped  the  sun.  They  were  conJirmed  in  their 
opinif)u  by  the  squares  of  stones,  which  they  saw  erected  for 
the  purpose  of  their  tents,  and  supposed  they  were  places  of 
worsliij) ;  but  they  have  no  religion  at  all,  although  they  are 
not  without  some  notion  of  a  Divine  Being,  and  of  a  future 
state. 

They  frequently  speak  of  a  Supreme  Being,  called  by  them 
Tornor.siiJ.;  a  compound  of  bad  and  good,  prol)al)ly  a  renuiant 
of  the  religion  of  tin- old  ISorwegians.  He  is  the  oracle  of  the 
AnL^ukvt,  or  Greenlandish  sorcerers,  who  are  alone  admitted 
to  have  intercourse  with  that  great  spirit.  Besides  Tornarsuk, 
they  speak  of  many  inferior  beings  or  spirits  residing  in  every 
corner  of  their  country.  Each  Greenlander  may  become  an 
angekut  or  sorcerer*  if  he  will  sulimit  to  certain  trials  and 
ceremonies;  but  the  angekut  never  enjoys  any  peculiar  vene- 
ration from  the  Greenlanders.  lie  prolif.s  by  the  superstitious 
credulity  of  his  countrymen,  pretending  to  cure  the  sick  with 

•  Goodrich's  Geography. 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  83 


MARRIAGE. — FUNERALS. 


magic  art,  and  presenting  amulets  of  seals,  reindeers,  &c.,  as 
a  preservative  to  those  in  health.  The  angekut  have  their  pe- 
culiar kind  of  language,  a  jargon,  understood  only  by  them- 
selves. 

The  men  seldom  marTy  before  the  twentieth  year  of  their  a<re  ; 
and  the  women  in  (heir"seventeenth  or  eighteenth  year.     The 
brideirroom  never  concerns  himself  abouc  marriage  dowry; 
he  is  well  satisfied,  if  his  bride  understands  housewifery  ;  that 
is,  all  the  business  wliich  we  have  already  mentioned  as  be- 
longing to  the  female.     The  parents  never  interfere,  but  they 
always  wish  that  their  son-in-law  should  be  a  good  hunter; 
and  on  the  other  Ijand,  that  the  wife  should  understand  house- 
wifery.    The  girl  always  makes  great  difficulties,  runs  to  the 
mountains,  orreries  pro  forma^  and  the  bridegroom  generally 
takes  her  by  force  from  tlie  house  of  her  parents,  and  puts  her, 
supported  by  some  old  women,  in  his  umiak,  which  is  lying  on 
shore.     He  brings  her  to  his  house,  and  they  are  considered 
as  married.     They  never  marry  their  relations.     Polygamy  is 
not  very  common  among  the  unconverted,  and  is  strongly  pro- 
hibited among  the  baptized.     It  occurs,  liowever,  though  very 
rarely,  that  a  heathen  has  three  or  four  wives.     The  most  re- 
spected of  them  is  she  who  is  so  fortunate  as  to  have  boys. 
If  a  wife  has  no  children,  she  herself  often  requests  the  man 
to  take  a  second  v/ife.  it  being  thouglit  ignominious  among 
them  not  to  have  a  family.     The  second  and  third  wife  are  al- 
ways inferior  in  rank  to  the  first.     Their  marriages  are  not 
indissoluble;  the  man  sometimes  puts  his  wife  away,  and  the 
wife  also  occasionally  elopes,  and  generally  j-elires  to  her  pa- 
rents, if  she  is  not  satisfied  with  the  man,  or  his  conduct. 

They  hirry  their  dead  p-eiierally  on  a  small  hill,  in  a  sitting 
posture,  dres.sed  in  their  best  clothes,  and  covered  vvith  seal- 
skin. The  land  being  a  mass  of  rocks,  the  inhabitants  are 
obliged  to  build  graves  of  stone,  which  are  cov^ered  with  plates 
of  lilica  slate,  or  clay  slate,  to  prevent  carnivorous  animals 
from  destroying  the  bodies.  The  kajuks,  (canoes,)  instruments, 
and  utensils,  are  placed  by  the  side  of  the  grave.  They  return 
from  the  burial  place  to  the  house  of  the  deceased,  to  continue 
tlie  lamentation,  which  consists  of  a  dreadful  monotonous 
howling,  supported  by  all  the  attendants,  who  sit  with  their 
faces  turned  to  the  ground.  When  this  is  over,  some  refresh- 
ment is  taken,  and  each  returns  to  his  own  house. 


6.  ICELAND. 


In  personal  appearance,  the  Icelanders  are  rather  above  the 
middle  size,  with  a  frank  open  countenance,  florid  complexion, 
and  yellow  or  liaxen  hair.  The  women  are  shorter  in  pro- 
portion than  the  men,  more  inclined  to  corpulency,  and  gene- 
rally live  to  a  greater  age.    In  the  early  part  of  life,  both  sexes 


84  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 


ICELAND. 


are  woakly,  perhaps  for  want  of  })roper  food  and  exercise; 
but  when  arrived  at  mature  aire,  they  are  capaljle  of  enduring 
preat  liardships.  Fiom  their  want  of  personal  cleanliness, 
both  men  and  women  make  a  disa<i;reeal)le  ajipcarance ;  and 
from  tills  circumstance,, added  to  their  bein<r  freiiuently  oblisjed 
to  remain  loner  in  their  wet  woollen  clothes,  they  are  subject  to 
cutaneous  diseases  and  pulmonary  complaints. 

Their  predominant  character  is  that  of  unsuspecting  frank- 
ness, pious  contentment,  and  a  steady  liveliness  of  tempera- 
ment, combined  with  a  strenfjth  of  intellect  and  acuteness  of 
mind  seldgm  to  be  met  with  in  other  parts  o.*"the  worUl.  They 
have  also  been  not(>d  for  the  almost  unconquerable  attachment 
which  they  feel  to  their  native  island,  ^\'ith  all  their  privations, 
and  exposed  as  they  are  to  numerous  dampers  from  the  ope- 
ration of  physical  causes,  they  live  under  the  ])ractical  inllu- 
ence  of  one  of  their  common  proverbs:  '■'■  Iceland  is  tfie  best 
land  un  which  the  sun  shines.''^ 

Among  the  customs  which  serve  to  illustrate  the  Icelandit! 
character,  the  followinQ;  are  related  by  Dr.  Henderson:  Hoth 
at  meeting;  and  j)arting,  an  affectionate  kiss  on  the  mouth, 
without  distinction  of  rank,  age,  or  sex,  is  the  only  mode  of 
salutation  known  in  Iceland,  except  sometimes  in  the  imme- 
diate vicinity  of  the  factories,  wh(>ie  the  common  Icelander 
salutes  a  fMrei2!;ner  whom  lit;  regards  as  his  superior,  by  pla- 
cing his  right  liand  on  his  mouth  or  lull  breast,  and  then  makiny 
a  low  bow. 

When  you  visit  a  family  in  Iceland,  ynu  must  salute  Uiem 
according  to  their  age  and  rank,  beginning  with  the  highest, 
and  descending,  acCoiding  to  your  best  judgment,  to  the  low- 
est, not  even  excepting  the  servants;  but  on  taking  leave,  this 
order  is  completely  reversed ;  the  salutation  i.s  fust  tendered  to 
tlie  servants,  then  to  the  chiMren,  and  last  of  all,  to  the  nii.s- 
tress  and  master  of  the  liimily. 

On  another  occasion,  while  on  a  visit  at  the  house  of  a  Mr. 
Johnson,  he  writes  :  "^\'hen  the  hour  of  rest  a|iproached,  I  was 
conducted  by  my  kind  host  and  liostess  into  a  hack  apartment, 
where  was  an  ancient  but  exci-llent  bed,  on  which  I  had  every 
reason  to  conclude,  more  th.in  oni;  of  the  Holum  I'ishops  had 
reposed.  A  ceremony  now  took  jilace,  which  exhibits,  in  the 
strongest  light,  tiie  hospit;ility  and  innocent  siinplirity  of  tlie 
Icelanilic  character.  Having  wished  me  a  good  night's  rest, 
they  retired,  and  left  their  eldest  daughter  to  assist  nie  in  pull- 
ing off  my  pantaloons  and  stockings,  apiece  of  kindness,  how- 
ever, vhich  I  would  a  thousand  times  rather  have  dispensed 
with,  as  it  was  so  repugnant  to  those  feelings  of  delicacy  to 
which  I  had  been  accustomed.  In  vain  I  remonstrated  against 
it  as  unnecessary.  The  yf)ung  woman  maintained  it  was  the 
custom  of  the  cfiuntry.  and  their  duty  to  help  the  Aveary  travel- 
ler. When  I  had  got  into  bed,  she  i)ron[;lit  a  long  board,  which 
«he  placed  before  me  to  prevent  my  falling  out;  and  deposited 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELL'ER.  85 

CUSTOMS. —  DRESS. 


a  basin  of  new  milk  on  a  table  close  to  my  head,  bade  me  good 
night,  and  retired.  Such  I  afterwards  found  to  be  universally 
the  custom  in  Icelandic  houses.  Where  there  are  no  daughters 
in  the  family,  the  service  is  performed  by  the  landlady  herself, 
who  considers  it  a  great  honor  to  have  it  in  her  power  to  show 
this  attention  to  a  stranger. 

The  dress  of  (he  men  resembles  that  of  the  Norwegian  and 
Swedish  peasants  ;  consisting  of  a  sheet  ofwadmel,  (a  coarse 
kind  of  woollen  cloth,)  with  a  blue  waistcoat,  jacket,  and  trou- 
sers, of  the  same  kind  of  stuff".  The  edges  of  all  are  bordered 
with  a  red  stripe.  On  their  feet  they  have  worsted  stockings, 
and  Icelandic  shoes.  When  they  travel,  they  put  on  a  long 
cloak,  called  hempa,  and  a  very  broad-brimmed  hat;  at  home, 
their  heads  are  covered  with  caps,  very  similar  to  those  worn 
by  the  women.  In  the  south,  dark  blue  or  black  cloths  are 
worn;  but  in  the  north,  the  color  is  white.  The  men,  in  gen- 
eral, do  not  wear  beards;  but  a  few  families  in  the  north  pride 
themselves  so  much  upon  this  appendage  to  the  chin,  that, 
about  half  a  century  ago,  an  Icelander  gave  his  brother  four 
rix  dollars  (a  large  sum  in  this  country)  for  the  exclusive  priv- 
ilege of  wearing  a  beard  ;  which  right  in  their  family,  had  been 
the  sole  prerogative  of  their  deceased  father. 

The  dress  of  the  ti-omen  is  singular.  The  under  garment  is 
oCu-adinel,  and  fastened  round  the  neck  by  a  button,  or  some- 
times by  a  silver  clasp;  over  this  they  wear  a  bodice,  and  two 
or  three  blue  petticoats,  called/a«;  and  in  front  an  apron,  bor- 
dered with  black  velvet,  and  ornamented  with  silver  clasps,  or 
sometimes  with  lace,  and  embroidery.  The  petticoats  are 
fastened,  inmiediately  beneath  the  bodice,  by  a  broad  girdle  of 
black  velvet,  richly  embroidered,  and  studded  with  various  or- 
naments. The  bodice  is  also  ornamented,  and  fastened  in  front 
with  a  number  of  large  silver  clasps,  generally  gilt,  and  render- 
ed more  conspicuous  by  being  fixed  upon  a  broad  border  of 
black  velvet,  which  is  itself  frequently  bound  round  Mith  red. 
Over  the  bodice  is  a  jacket,  called  treja,  fitting  close  to  the 
shape,  and  made  of  black  wadmel,  or,  sometimes,  of  black  vel- 
vet. It  has  long  narrow  sleeves,  reaching  down  to  the  wrists. 
The  openings  on  each  side  of  the  sleeves,  are  ornamented  with 
chased  gilt  buttons,  frequently  with  a  plate  upon  each,  contain- 
mg  the  initials  of  the  husband  and  wife:  the  latter  is  a  present 
of^yie  bridegroom  to  his  bride  just  before  marriage.  At  the 
topof  the  jacket  is  a  small  black  collar,  of  velvet  or  silk,  some- 
times trimmed  v.-ith  gold  cord.  Over  the  whole  is  thrown  the 
Itempa.  or  cloak,  of  black  cloth,  the  edges  of  which  are  border- 
ed with  a  kind  of  black  velvet,  manufactured  by  the  Icelandic 
women;  and  it  is  fastened  in  front  with  a  number  of  silver 
clasps.  The  stockings  are  of  dark  blue  or  red  worsted  ;  and 
the  shoes,  which  are  of  seal  or  sheep  skin,  are  made  tight  to 
the  foot,  and  fastened  about  the  ankle  and  instep  with  leather 
thongs.      Females  of  the   higher  class   wear   elegant  silver 

o 


8G  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 


ICELAND. 


chains  about  their  necks,  on  which  they  suspend  medals,  oi 
larire  pieces  of  silver,  bearing  titjures  or  inscriptions  of  a  rc- 
liirious  nature.  On  their  finj^tn's  liie  women  generally  have 
man)'  rings  of  ^'old,  silver,  or  brass,  according  to  their  al)ility 
to  |)inchase  thcin.  Iiiit  the  most  singular  part  of  tiie  female 
costume,  is  llie  head-die^s.  called  a  fdldiir,  wliicii  is  made  of 
white  linen  stiffened  with  an  immenscnumber  of  pins,  and  from 
fifteen  to  twenty  inches  in  height.  In  summer,  which  in  this 
island  is  very  short,  tlie  common  working-dress  of  tiie  females 
consists  only  of  tiie  under  garment,  witii  petticoats  of  white 
icac/mcl,  and  a  l>lue  cap,  the  to;i  of  which  hangs  down  on  one 
side,  and  is  terminated  with  a  tassel.  This  cap,  with  l)lue  pet- 
ticoats and  a  blue  jaci.et,  constitute  the  domestic  dress  of  the 
first  females  on  the  island. 

The  Icelandic  is  justly  regardt^d  as  tlic  standard  of  the  grand 
northern  diak^ct  of  the  Gothic  language.  Tiie  remoteness  of 
the  island,  and  the  little  intercourse*  which  its  inhabitants  have 
maintained  with  the  rest  of  the  worh!,  have  eliectually  secured 
the  purity  and  originality  of  this  ancient  language  ;  and  it  is  a 
cnrinus  fact,  that  while  oiu-abicst  antiquaries  are  of^tfu  puzzled,  • 
in  endeavcn-ing  to  deciplKM*  certain  words  and  phrases  in  wri- 
tings, which  date  their  origin  only  a  few  centuries  l>a(k,  there 
is  not  a  peasant,  nor  indeed  scajcely  a  servant  girl  in  Iceland, 
who  is  not  capal)le  of  reading"  with  ease  the  most  ancient  docu- 
ments e.xtnnt  on  the  island. 

'I'he  most  important  Icelandic  porms  are  compi-ised  in  the 
Edda,  which  consists  of  two  parts ;  the  former,  known  by  the 
name  of  .S'i^/jih.v/k/'.s  K,l<la.  contains  a  collection  of  thirty-eight 
<thic,  mytholdgical,  and  historical  poems  ;  and  the  latter,  com- 
monly called  .S';/o/-7(/.7  Kdtln.  treat.^  of  the  art  of  jioetry,  and 
exhibits,  by  way  of  illustration,  fiagments  of  ancient  poetical 
compositions. 

The  /i />/(■'/ /(•'//  compositions  of  the  Icelanders,  known  by  the 
name  of  .SV/cr/.s-,  iire  exceedinuly  nituKMOUs,  and  not  less  worthy 
of  regard  than  their  poems.  Like  the  latter,  tlii-y  originated 
in  the  peculiar  circumstances  of  the  people,  at«!in  early  period 
of  their  history.  Aged  men  wfio  had  treasured  up  in  UK^nory 
a  rich  fund  of  traditionary  relations,  were  regarded  .-.sunder  a 
kind  of  obligjitionto  repeat  them  on  special  occasion.s,tliat  they 
might  be  U'arh(fl  by  the  young,  and  tlius  transmitted  to  future 
generations.  To  these  traditiojis  the  Icehmders  gav(  "^^ 
name  of  i^ncna.  They  sometimes  blended  lictioii  artd  trJ 
but  many  of  ihem  are  wortliy  of  tlie  fidlest  credit. 

Inland  hoK  hi/l  one  ychonl,  and  that  is  designed  for  si)ch  as 
are  afterwar'3  to  fill  offices  in  church  and  state:  yet  the  edu- 
cation of  cliildren  is  nrjt  neglected.  You  can  scarec^ly  enti-r  a 
hut,  where  may  not  be  r)u:;il  some  individual  capable  of  sus- 
taining a  conversation  on  topics  which  would  be  reckoned  alto- 
pether  above  the  understandinc^  of  people  of  t.hesame  rank  in 
other  countries.     This  general  dillubionofknowled^e  is  greatly 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLE.  87 


LITERA";  ORE. — HOUSES. 


promoted  by  the  mar.ner  in  which  the  Icelanders  pass  their 
long  winter  evenings.     Between  three  and  four  o'clock,  the 
lanfp  is  hung  up  in  the  principal  apartment,  which  answers  for 
both^itting-room  and  bed-room,  and  the  members  of  the  family 
take  their  stations,  with  their  work  in  their  hands,  on  their  re- 
spective beds,  which  face  each  other.     The  master  and  mis- 
tress, with  the  children,  or  other  relations,  occupy  the  beds  at 
the  inner  end  of  the  room,  and  the  jest  are  filled  by  the  servants. 
As  soon  as  the  work  is  begun,  one  of  the  family  takes  a  seat 
near  the  lamp,  and  commences  the  evening  reading,  which 
generally  consists  of  some  old  saga,  or  such  other  histories 
as  can  be  procured  in  the  island.     The  lecture  is  often  inter- 
rupted, either  by  the  head,  or  som.c  other  .intelligent  member 
of  the  family,  who  makes  remarks  on  various  parts  of  the 
story,   and  proposes  questions,  with   a  view  to  exercise  the 
ingenuity  of  the  children  and  servants.     By  such  m.eans,  the 
Icelanders  acquire  an  early  habit  of  thinking.     And  as  they 
are  badly  supplied  with  printed  books,  they  are  under  the 
necessity  of  copying  such  as  they  can  obtain  the  loan  of;  and 
thus  most  of  them  write  a   hand,  equal  in  beauty  to  that  of 
the   ablest  writing-masters  in  Europe.     In  some  houses,  the 
sagas  are  repeated  by  such  as  have  gv^t  them  by  rote  ;  and  it 
is  not  uncommon  for  itinerant  historians  to  gain  a  livelihood 
during  the  winter,  by  sojourning  at  different  farms  till  they 
have  exhausted  their  stock  of  literary  knowledge.     Poetry 
has  always  flourished  in  Iceland,  and  there  are  still  several 
scalds,  or  poets,  who  cultivate  it  with  success.     The  natives 
are  very  acute  observers  of  the  grammatical  construction  of 
their  language  ;  and  the  least  mistake  made  by  a  foreigner,  is 
immediately  detected  by  the  lowest  peasant. 


Ill  general,  ike  Icelandic  houses  are  all  constructed  in  the 
same  manner.  The  walls,  which  may  be  about  four  feet  in 
height  by  six  in  thickness,  are  composed  of  alternate  layers  of 
earth  and  stone,  and  incline  a  little  inwards,  when  they  are 
met  by  a  sloping  roof  or  turf,  supported  by  a  few  beams,  which 
are  crossed  by  twigs  and  boughs  of  birch.  The  roof  always 
furnishes  good  grass,  which  is  cut  with  the  scythe  at  the  usual 
season.  In  front,  three  doors  generally  present  themselves, 
the  tops  of  which  form  triangles" and  are  ahiiGSt  always  orna- 
mented with  vanes.  The  middle  door  opens  into  a  dark  pas- 
gage,  about  thirty  feet  in  length,  by  five  in  breadth,  from  which 
entrances  branch  off  on  either  side,  and  lead  to  diflerent  apart- 
ments, such  as,  the  stranger's  room,  which  is  always  tJie  best 
in  the  house,  the  kitchen,  weaving-room,  &c.,  and  at  the  inner 
end  of  the  passage  lies  the  badstufu,  or  sleeping  apartment, 
which  also  forms  the  sitting  and  common  working-room  of  the 
family.  In  many  houses,  this  room  is  in  the  garret  to  which 
the  pas&age  communicates  by  a  dark  and  dangerous  staircase. 
The  lightis  admitted  through  small  windows  in  the  roof,  which 
generally  consist  of  the  amnion  of  sheep,  though  of  late  years, 


88  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

ICELAND. 

glass  has  got  more  into  use.  Sucli  of  the  houses  as  have  win- 
dows in  the  walls,  bear  the  most  strikinp;  resemblance  to  the 
exterior  of  a  bastion.  The  smoke  makes  its  escape  through  a 
hole  in  the  roof;  but  this,  it  is  to  be  observed,  is  only  from  the 
kitchen,  as  the  IcelandiMs  never  have  any  fire  in  their  sittinf^- 
room,  even  durin.L''  the  severest  cold  in  winter.  Their  lieds 
are  arran;j;ed  on  each  side  of  the  room,  and  consist  of  open 
bedsteads  raised  about  three  feet  above  the  ground.  Tliey 
are  tilled  with  sea-weed,  feathers,  or  down,  accordiritf  to  the 
circumstances  ctfthe  peasant;  over  which  is  thrown  a  fold  or 
two  of  wadmel,  and  a  coverlet  of  divers  colors.  Though  the 
beds  are  extremely  narrow,  the  Icelanders  contrive  to  sleep 
in  them  by  couples,  by  lying  head  to  foot.  Sometimes  the  in- 
side of  the  rooms  are  panelh^d  with  boards,  but  generally  the 
walls  are  l)are,  and  collect  nnich  dust,  so  that  it  is  scarcely 
possible  to  keep  any  tiling  clean.  It  is  seldom  the  Door  is  laid 
with  boards,  but  consists  of  damp  earth,  which  necessarily 
proves  very  unhealthy. 

Tlie  (inliuary  diet  nf  the  Icelanders  is  extremely  simple.  In 
the  morning,  they  breakfast  on  skyr^  a  dish  of  coagulated 
milk,  resembling  curd,  only  it  is  sour;  to  which  they  add 
plenty  of  sweet  milk  or  cream,  and  sometimes  give  it  a  pecu- 
liar llavor,  l)y  mixing  with  it  blue  and  jiudjier-beriy  juice. 
Their  dinner  consists  of  dried  fish  and  butter;  the  latter  of 
which  is  generally  sour,  it  being  a  common  practice  to  allow 
it  to  acquire  a  strong  de-free  of  rancidity,  after  which  it  will 
keep  for  almost  any  lent^th  of  time.  For  supper,  they  have 
either  slujr,  a  little  bread  and  cheese,  or  porridge  made  ot  the 
Icelandic  moss.  To  a  foreigner,  this  is  not  only  the  most 
healthy,  but  tlie  most  i)alatal)ie  of  all  tiie  articles  of  Icelandic 
diet.  On  j)articular  occasions,  such  as  Sundays,  and  other 
holydays,  they  eat  boiled  mutton,  ryc-porrid^e,  and  nnlk.  At 
Christmas,  the  first  day  of  summer,  and  harvest-home,  extra 
feasts  are  given  to  the  servants,  consi.stint;  of  fresh  nnitton, 
milk-pf)rriflge.  and  bread — an  article  whic:h  this  class  of  the 
inhabitants  seldom  taste  throughout  the  year.  'I'heir  common 
beverage  is  blaudd  ;  a  kind  of  whey  nnxed  with  water;  the 
whey  itself  which  they  call  sijra  ;  and  milk,  which  they  gene- 
rally drink  warm. 

Trarelliutr  in  J,-, hnitl  is  attended  with  much  more  trouble 
and  difficulty  than  in  any  part  of  F.urope.  Here  there  is  nei- 
ther coach  nor  curricle,  cart  nor  wapon,  for  the  conveyance 
of  one's  person  and  lu<;gage.  Every  thing  is  carried  on  liorse- 
back.  The  first  thing,  th(!refore,  that  a  traveller  has  to  think 
of,  is  the  procuring  of  horses,  whicli  he  nuiy  either  hire  or  pur- 
chase ;  but  the  latter  mode  is  |)referal)le,  as  in  that  case  he  has 
them  more  at  his  counnaml  ;  and  it  is  also  atti'uded  with  less 
expense,  especially  if  the  journey  be  of  any  length.  The  com- 
mon horses  are,  in  general,  from  thirteen  to  lourteen  hands 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  S9 


TRAVELLING. SEASONS. 


Iiich,  strongly  made,  lively,  persevering,  and  carry  from  225 
to'SOO  poiuids  weight,  the  distance  of  twenty-five  miles  a  day.- 
In  breaking  such  as  they  design  for  the  saddle,  the  natives 
make  it  then-  grand  object  to  inure  them  to  a  short,  easy  am- 
ble, at  which  many  of  them  advance  with  almost  incredible 
swiftness.  As  there  are  no  inns  on  the  island,  the  traveller 
must  also  provide  himself  with  a  tent,  which  is  the  more  neces- 
sary on.  account  of  the  deserts  he  has  sometimes  to  traverse ; 
and  even  at  the  farms  he  will  prefer  it  to  the  best  accommoda- 
tions that  may  be  offered  him.  A  good  experienced  guide  is 
the  next  requisite,  .and,  if  the  cavalcade  be  large,  a  servant  to 
take  care  of  the  horses  and  baggage  is  equally  necessary. 
Travelling  chests  must  also  be  procured,  together  with  pro- 
Visions,  a'hd  small  money,  with  which  to  reward  any  trivial 
^ej-vices  that  may  be  shown  by  the  peasants.  For  those  who 
penetrate  into  the  interior,  a  compass  is  indispensable,  as  they 
are  apt  to  get  bewildered  in  snowy  or  foggy  weather;  and  if 
they  do  not  keep  in  the  proper  direction,"  may  easily  wander 
into  deserts,  wiiere  both  themselves  and  their  horses  must  per- 
ish with  hunger. 

Strictly  speaking,  there  are  only  two  seasons  in  Iceland. — 
summer  and  winter;  the  former  of  which,  short  and  precarious 
as  it  is,  the  natives  must  employ  with  assiduity,  in  order  to 
make  provision  for  the  latter.  From  the  third  of  February  to 
the  twelfth  of  May,  is  what  the  Icelanders  call  the  fishing  sea- 
son; at  which  period  vast  ii ambers  of  the  inhabitants  flock  to 
the  southern  and  western  shores  from  the  districts  in  the  north 
and  east,  where  the  fishing  is  generally  itTipracticable  at  this 
time,  owing  to  the  bays  and  necks  being  filled  v.ith  polar  ice. 


IS  tied  close  over  the  brok^  so  as  to  }irevent  the  water  from  get- 
ting in  between  them  ;  and  tiglit  setting  shoes  of  the  same  ma- 
terial, below  which  are  w^orn  coarse  woollen  ^stockings  for 
greater  warmth.  The  most  of  them  liveehp.ost  entirely,  during 
this  period,  on  butter  and  fish.  They  breakfast  about  two 
hours  before  sunrise,  and  taste  nothing  till  they  return  from 
sea  in  the  evening,  excepting  sometimes  a  little  whey,  which 
they  take  with  them  for  the  purpose  of  quenching  their  thirst. 
The  boats  are  generally  manned  vyith  six  or  eight  hands  be- 
sides the  steersman,  and  row  soinetimes  to  a  great  distance 
out  to  sea. 

When  they  return  from  fishing,, and  land  on  the  beach,  the 
boat  is  hauled  up,  and  the  fish  are  thrown  out  and  heaped  to- 
gether in  separate  parcels,  according  to  the  number  of  men  in 
the  boat,  with  two  additional  shares,  which  belong  to  the  boat, 
and  are  claimed  by  the  owner  for  the  use  of  it,  and  the  fishing 
fines  and  hooks,  which  are  provided  at  his  expense.  The  fish- 
ermen, being  fatigued,  repair  immediately  to  their  huts,  and 
8* 


90  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

ICELAND. 

the  splitting  and  carrying  home  of  the  fish  is  commonly  left  to 
the  women  and  children. 

The  principal  lish  they  catch  in  this  way,  is  the  cod.  They 
cut  otr  tlie  heads,  which  they  also  dry,  and  sell  to  the  poorer 
part  of  the  population  ;  the  bones  are  sometimes  used  for  feed- 
ing their  cattle;  and  in  some  parts  of  the  island,  they  use  them 
for  fuel.  The  iish  are  laid  out  on  the  cliffs,  or  a  large  surface 
of  flat  stones  on  tiie  beach,  and  there  drit-d  in  the  sdn,  while 
the  utmost  care  is  taken  that  they  are  not  exposed  to  rain  or 
damp.  They  dry  in  the  course  of  three  weeks,  and  afterwards 
are  stacked  upon  the  beach,  and  take  no  damage  whatever 
from  the  rain. 

When  the  snow  leaves  the  ground,  the  females  spread  the 
manme  which  has  lain  on  the  tun  in  heaps  all  winter,  and  col- 
lect any  stones  tliat  may  have  gatlieri'd  on  it.  Tiic  men  are 
employed  in  cuttiiiL:  tiuf,  bdth  for  fuel  and  a  coveiin?,' for  their 
houses,  and  makin,i,r  charcoal  for  tiie  use  of  the  smithy.  Wlien 
the  yoilng  cattle  have  been  turned  out  on  the  mountains,  the 
care  of  the  cows  and  sheep  is  left  to  the  female  j)art  of  the  fam- 
ily, who  milk  tlieni  twice  a  day,  make  cuids,  butter,  cheese, 
&c.,  and  they  repair  in  companies,  about  the  middle  of  sum- 
mer, to  collect  the  Lirluns  MamJicuji,  or  Iceland  moss,  in  the 
uninhabited  parts  of  the  country.  They  hav(^,  generally,  a 
man  or  two  with  them:  and  the  few  wct'ks  they  sgcntl  in  this 
employment  in  llie  desert,  are  regardetl  as  the  happiest  of  the 
whole  year.  They  live  in  tents,  which  they  remove  from  place 
to  place,  according  to  the  greater  or  less  abundance  of  tli^ 
moss.  At  this  time  the  men  are  either  out  at  tln^  ficsh-watelc 
fishing,  or  proceeding  in  cavalcades  to  the  factories,  where 
tiiey  barter  their  liome  productions  against  articles  of  neces- 
sary use  for  the  winter. 

The  most  impoitant  branch  of  lural  labor  in  Iceland,  is  the 
h(iij-m<ikiiiir.  Ai)oul  (he  middle  of  .luly,  the  ])ea«-ant  begins  to 
cut  down  the  grass  of  the  lun,  wliich  is  immediately  gathered 
to  a  convenient  i)lace,  in  order  to  diy;  and  af\er  having  been 
turned  once  or  twice,  is  conveyed  home  on  horseback  to  the 
yard,  where;  it  is  nia.le  up  into  stacks.  At  tin;  poorer  farms, 
both  men  and  women  handle  the  scytiie ;  but,  in  general,  thi; 
women  only  assist  in  making  the  hay,  after  it  is  cut.  In  many 
parts  of  the  island,  where  there  is  much  hay.  the  peasants 
hire  men  from  the  fishing  places,  who  are  paid  f  )r  their  la- 
bor at  the  rate  of  tliirty  pounds  of  l)utt(M'  per  week.  They 
cut  by  measurement;  the  daily  task  being  about  thirty  sfjuare 
fathoms. 

Hay  harvest  being  over,  the  sheep  and  cattle  that  have  been 
out  all  summer  on  the  mountains  are  collected  ;  the  houses  are 
put  in  a  state  of  repair  for  the  winter  ;  the  wood  needed  for  do- 
mestic purpo.ses  is  brought  home  to  each  farm  ;  the  turf  is  also 
taken  in  ;  and  the  labors  of  the  season  conclude  with  the  re- 
moval of  manure  to  different  jiarts  of  the  tun. 

During  the  winter.,  llie  care  of  the  cattle  and  sheep  devolves 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  91 


CHURCH. — CLERGY. 


entirely  on  the  men  ;  and  consists  chiefly  in  feeding  and  wa- 
tering the  former,  which  are  kept  in  the  house,  while  the  latter 
are  turned  out  in  the  daytime  to  seek  their  food  through  the 
snow.  When  the  snow  happens  to  be  so  deep  that  they  can- 
not scrape  il  away  themselves,  the  boys  do  it  for  them  ;  and  as 
the  sustenance  tlius  procured  is  exceedingly  scanty,  they  gen- 
erally get  a  little  of  the  meadow  hay,  at  this  time.  The  farm 
hay  is  "given  to  the  cows  only.  All  the  horses,  excepting  per- 
haps-a  favorite  ridins:  horse,  are  left  to  provide  for  themselves 
the  whole  winter,  during  which  they  never  lie  down,  but  rest 
themselves  by  standing  in  some  place  of  shelter. 

The  form  and  cereinonies  of  the  Icelandic  church  are  strictly 
Lutheran.  The  total  number  of  parishes  in  Iceland  amounts 
to  184.  The  clergy  are  all  natives  of  the  island,  and  are 
maintained  partly''  by  cultivating  small  glebes  attached  to  the 
churches,  and  partly  from  certain  tithes  raised  among  tho 
peasants.  The  provision  made  for  their  support  is  exceed- 
ingly scanty.  The  richest  living  on  the  island  does  not  pro- 
d lice- 20,0  rix-dollars;  twenty  and  thirty  rix-dollars  are  the 
whole  of  the  stipeVid  annexed  to  many  of  the  parishes  ;  aM 
there  are  some  in  which  it  is  even  as  low  as  five. 

Small  as  the  pittance  is  which  is  thus  afforded  to  the  Ice- 
landic clergy,  and  much  as  their  attention  must  be  directed 
to  the  management  of  their  farms,  they  are,  nevertheless,  in 
general,  very  assiduous  in  the  discharge  of  their  public  func- 
tions, and  parlicularly  attentive  to  the  education  of  the  young. 
Eveiy  clergyman  in  Iceland  keeps  what  is  called  a  register  of 
souls,  which  contains  an  accurate  statement  of  the^age,  situa- 
tion, conduct,  abilities,  and  proficiency  of  each  individual  in 
his  parish.  The  books  in  the  possession  of  the  family  are  also 
entered  on  the  list;  and,  as  this  record  is  made  annually,  to 
be  presented  to  the  dean  at  his  visitation,  a  regular  view  is 
thus  obtained  of  the  moral  and  religious  state  of  the  parish.* 

In  regard  to  sentiment  and  style  of  preaching,  the  Icelandic 
clergy  may  be  divided  into  two  classes  ;  those  of  the  old,  and 
such  as  are  of  the  new  school.  The  former  profess  to  receive 
the  Bible  as  an  authoritative  and  obligatory  revelation  of  the 
will  o-f  God,  and  bow  with  reverence  to  its  decisions.  They  are 
men  who  are  dead  to  the  world,  and  devoted  in  heart  and  life 

*  The  sabbath  scene  at  an  Icelandic  church  is  one  of  a  most  singular  and 
interesiini?  kind.  A  little  edifici-,  constructed  of  wood  and  turf,  is  situated, 
perhaps  aiiiid  the  rugged  ruins  of  a  stream  of  lava,  or  beneath  mountains  cov- 
ered vvithunmelling  snow.  Here  the  Icelanders  assemble  to  perform  the  du- 
ties of  their  religion.  A  group  of  male  and  female  peasants  may  be  seen  gath- 
ered about  the  church,  waiting  the  arrival  of  their  pastor;  all  habited  in  their 
best  attire  after  the  manner  of  their  country  ;  their  children  with  ihem  ;  and 
the  horses  which  brought  them  from  their  respective  homes  grazing  quietly 
around  the  little  assembly.  The  arrival  of  a  new-comer  is  welcomed  by  every 
one  with  a  kiss  of  salutation.  Thepasior  makes  his  appearance  among  them 
as  a  friend;  he  salutes  individually  each  member  of  his  flock,  and  stoops 
down  to  give  his  almost  parental  kiss  to  the  little  ones,  who  are  to  grow  up  un- 
der his  care.  These  kind  offices  performed,  they  all  go  together  into  the  house 
of  prayer. 


S2  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

ICELAND. 

to  the  service  of  their  Redeemer.  Their  private  \vali<  exhib- 
its the  jr<Miiiine  tendency  of  the  lioly  doctrines  tlu-y  teach  ;  and 
their  jiublic  discourses  are  earnest,  enei'gctic,  aniiuatefi,  point- 
ed, and  faithful. 

Sncii  of  the  cler^ry  as  are  of  tlie  new  school,  the  number  of 
ivhoni  is  happily  not  very  great,  treat  divine  thin;;s  in  quite  a 
different  manner.  They  are  entirely  men  of  the  world.  The 
awful  realities  of  an  approaching  eternity  have  made  no  suit- 
able impression  upon  their  minds,  and  levit}',  callousness,  and 
indincrencf,  mark  the  whole  of  their  conduct.  Nor  are  the 
effects  resulting  from  Ihe  dissemination  of  tlieir  tenets  on  such 
as  imbibe  them,  less  visit)le  and  injurious.  Tlieir  minds  be- 
come imbued  with  skepticism  and  intidelity  ;  every  vestige  of 
reliction  disappears,  and  immorality  of  one  description  or  an- 
otlier  generally  occupies  its  place. 

It  is  a  cvfttom  in  Iceland  as  ^onn  as  a  pcr.s-o?j  hu-s  (lec^atfpd^ 
to  remove  the  corpse  to  the  church,  where  it  is  sulfered  to  re- 
Ciain  till  the  day  of  interment.  When  a  person  hiipjiens  to  die 
in  the  vicinity  of  tiie  church,  he  is  wr.ipped  in  wadmel,  and 
placed  on  a  bench  beside  the  altar,  till  a  coflni  can  be  got 
ready.  Formerly,  the  coffin  was  placed  on  a  sledge  which 
was  drawn  by  oxen  ;  but  as  this  mode  of  conveyance  is  en- 
tirely out  of  use  fit  (lie  present  d.iy,  the  .Icelanders  now  carry, 
rt  orihorsel)ack,  as  the  Jews  did  the  body  of  Amaziah.  "  And 
tliey  bron:;ht  him  on  horses;  and  he  was  buried  at  Jerusalem 
with  his  fathers  in  the  city  of  David."  2  Kings,  xiv.  20.  In  the 
winter  season,  interments  are  attended  with  considerable  dif- 
ficulty, as  it  takes  three  or  four  ]ieapie  a  whole  day  to -dig  a 
grave,  owing  to  the  depth  of  the  frost.  In  many  parts  of  the 
island,  where  the  jieople  are  at  a  distance  from  any  church, 
they  preserve  the  corj)se  the  wiiole  winter  in  a  cellar,  and  in- 
ter jt  the  following  spring. 

The /«;/(';•«/  s.rvice  begins  with  a  psalm,  which  is  sung, 
while  the  procession  advances  towards  the  grave  ;  the  men 
having  their  heads  uncovered,  and  the  females  covering  their 
faces  almost  entirely  with  tlu'ir  handkt>rc!iiefs.  After  the  cof- 
fin has  been  deposited  in  the  grave,  the  priest  throws  three 
shovel  •>  fuil  of  earth  upon  it,  repeating  the  words  :  "  from  dust 
thou  art  taken  ;  to  dust  thou  slialt  return  ;  and  from  the  dust 
sJialt  thou  ri.se  again  at  the  last  diiy."  While  the  grave  ks 
filling,  the  company  sing  p  ivalm  or  two,  suited  4o  the  occa- 
sion. One  of  the  servants  Ijelongi  ng  to  the  farm,  whence  the 
corpse  has  been  brought,  entered  the  grave,  after  a  small  jior- 
tion  of  earlli  had  been  thrown  in,  ami  coiitinue(l  to  tramp  it 
down  with  his  feet:  an  action  that  natin-ally  produced  a  very 
abhorrent  feeling  in  my  mind,  observes  Dr.  Henderson,  and 
added  to  the  common,  but,  perhaps,  unjust  prejudice  that  is 
entertained  against  those  whose  lot  it  is  to  perform  the  last 
offices  of  humanity.  The  females  knelt,  in  the  piean  time,  on 
Ihc  surrounding  graves;  and  when  all  was  finished,  the  father 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  93 


MEXICO. 


of  the  deceased  threw  himself  prostrate  on  the  grave,  and  con- 
tinued in  that  posture  for  the  space  of  ei<];ht  or  ten  minutes  ; 
but  whether  liis  prayer  regarded  the  soul  of  the  departed,  or 
the  important  uses  to  be  made  of  this  solemn  event  by  the  liv- 
ing, was  more  than  I  could  determhie. 

We  will  here  take  leave  of  Iceland,  a  country  less  inviting 
than  most  others,  owing  to  the  perpetual  snows  which  cover 
its  mountains,  and  the  volcanic  fires, 'which  have  spread  de- 
vastation and  sterility  over  its  plains.  Were  it  consistent  with 
our  plan,  we  should  certainly  visit  Mount  Hecla,  a  celebraterl 
volcano,  situated  in  the  southern  part,  a  few  miles  from  the 
coast,  and  rising  about  5000  feet.  It  has  quietly  slept  now 
for  sixty  years,  gathering  power  probably  by  its  long  repose, 
for  corresponding  eruptions,  whenever  its  rest  shall  be  dis- 
turbed. Could  we  visit  it,  we  should  be  glad  to  have  it  prolong 
its  nap,  t'll  we  were  out  of  harm's  way— but  we  must  forego 
the  pleasure  of  the  sight,  and  thus  we  shall  incur  no  hazard, 
a  point  of  some  importance  v.'e  suppose,  if  we  are  to  keep  our 
fellow  travellers  in  our  company. 

For  a  similar  reason,  we  shall  take  our  leave  without  a  visit 
to  the  hotspringsof  this  island,  the  most  celebrated  of  which  is 
called  the  '•  Great  Geyser,"  in  the  neighborhood  of  Mount 
Hecla.  The  jets  thrown  up,  which  occur  once  in  six  hours,  at 
first  seldom  exceed  fifteen  or  twenty  feet,  but  subsequent  ones 
sometimes  reach  eighty  feet  and  upwards.  As  we  have  en- 
sured our  companions  a  safe  circumnavigation,  we  will  make 
our  exit  from  Iceland,  without  giving  them  an  opportunity  of 
contrasting,  to  their  injnri/,  polar  coldness  with  boiling  water. 
Our  destinies  lead  us  to  the  more  sunny  clime,  and  luxuriant 
fields  of  Me:rico  ;  yet  even  there  we  shall  find  ourselves  in  the 
land  of  volcanoes,  whose  summits,  if  not  red  with  spouting 
fires,  will  appear  white  with  virgin  snows. 


7.  MEXICO. 


Mexico  ift  a  lar<rp  country^  extending  along  the  coast  of  the 
Pacific,  about  2,S00  miles,  "with  a  breadth  of  from  150  (in  the 
southern  part)  to  1400  miles;  and  containsmore  than  1,100,000 
square  miles.  The  estimate  of  Humboldt  is  still  greater.  One 
half  of  the  territory  is  situated  within  the  tropic,  while  the  rest 
belongs  to  the  temperate  zone.  Notwithstanding  its  distance 
from  the  pole,  three  fifths  of  Mexico  has  a  cold,  or  at  least 
temperate  atmosphere.  The  v.-hole  of  the  country,  in  fact, 
constitutes  an  immense  talile  land,  having  an  elevation  which 
varies  from  0,562  to  8.202  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 

The.  population  of  Mexico  was  formerly  greater,  Humboldt 
conjectures,  than  it  is  at  present.     Formerly  the  inhabitants 


94  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

MEXICO. 

were  concentrated  in  a  very  small  space,  in  (he  neij2;liborhood 
ofthe  capital.  At  tlie  present  day  it  is  more  2;encrally  distrib- 
uted than  it  was  before  liie  conquest,  and  the  number  of  In- 
dians has  increased  durini,^  ihc  l;ist  centiuy.  Accdrdintr  to  an 
imperfect  census  made  in  17!U,  the  return  was  estimated  at 
5,200,000.  The  proportion  of  births  to  deaths,  din-inj;  the  time 
between  that  period  and  IIunihnI<U's  visit,  was  found  from 
data  furnishol  by  tlieclerijy,  to  b(>  170:  100  ;  while  tiiat  of  births 
to  the  total  aniount  he  eonsiders  as  one  in  seventeen,  and  of 
the  deaths  as  one  in  thirty.  The  annual  number  ofliirths  he 
estimates  at  nearly  350,000,  and  that  of  deaths  at  200,000.  It 
would  tiuis  apjiearthat,  if  this  rate  of  increase  were  not  check- 
ed from  time  to  time  by  some  extraordinary  cause,  the  popula- 
tion of  New  Spain  would  dolible  every  nineteen  years.  In  the 
United  States  jrenerally  it  has  doubled,  since  1761,  every  twen- 
ty or  t\venty-tlu-ee  years;  and  in  some  of  them  it  doubles  in 
thirteen  or  fourteen.  In  France,  on  the  other  hand,  the  num-  . 
ber  of  inhabitants  would  double  in  21 1  years,  were  no  wars  or 
contagious  diseases  to  interfere.  Such  is  the  difference  be- 
tween countries  that  have  long  lu'en  dtMisely  peopled  and  those 
whose  civilization  is  of  recent  date.  IIum!)oldt,  from  various 
considerations,  assumes  the  population  of  Mexico  in  1803  at 
5,800,000;  and  thinks  itcxtremeiv  probable  that  in  1808  it  ex- 
ceeded 6,500,000. 

Tiirjiref^rmt  Mciican  population  is  composed  of  seven  races: 
1.  Europeans^  vulgarly  called  Chapetons  ;  2.  Creoles,  or  native 
whites  of  Europinui  extraction  ;  3.  Mrsfizoefi,  the  offspring  of 
whites  and  Indians  ;  4.  Muliiftoi.f^  the  offsj)ring  of  whites  and 
negroes;  !"->.  AborighKil  Indians,  of  the  pure  cojiper-colored 
race;  (5.  African  netjror-n,  ajid  their  descendants;  7.  Zamhoes 
or  Chinoes,  the  offspring  of  negrcies  and  Indians.  To  these 
may  be  adtled  many  iuflividiials  of  Asi.itic  oriizin,  numbers  o/" 
the  Chinese  and  Malays  having  setllcd  in  Mexico,  owing  to 
the  fiequent  communication  between  Acaj^ulco  and  the  Phil- 
ippine Islands  ;  and  natives  of  the  Canary  Islands,  who  are 
generally  designated  by  the  name  nf  I.s-lmos,  (islandeis,)  and 
rank  as  whites.  They  are  for  the  luost  part  overseers  and 
agents  of  |)lantations. 

The  number  of  CApper-colored  Indians  ofthe  pure  race,  is 
supposed  to  bo  2.50().(!riO,  forming  ationt  two  fifths  ofthe  entire 
jiopulation.  In  the  intendencifs  of  fJuanaxuato,  Valladolid, 
Oaxaca,  and  La  Pueb]a,they  amount  to  three  jifths;  but,  in  the 
north  of  Ne\^r  Sjjain,  and  the  internal  provinces,  they  are 
rarely  to  be  met  with. 

T/ir   Indians  of  Mr.rico,  or   New  t^juiin,   are   describerl   by 
Humboldt  as  bearing  a  general  resemblance  to  those  who  in- 
habit Canada,  Florida,  Peru,  and  Ilra7.il.     They  have  t'  i«» 
swarthy  and  co|)per  color,  flat  Jind  snu)oth  hair,  smn  l,r    p 
squat  body,  long  eye,  with  the  corner  directed  upwards             'f 


¥ 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVJELLER.  9? 


COSTUME. 


the  temples,  prominent  cheek-bones,  thick  lips,  and  an  expres- 
sion of  gentleness  in  the  mouth,  strongly  contrasted  with  a 
gloomy  and  severe  look.  There  is,  however,  a  considerable 
diversity  of  feature  and  physiological  ciiaracter  among  the 
different  nations,  whitii,  though  not  detected  by  the  hasty  ob-. 
servation  of  the  European  stranger,  is  not  less  essential  than 
the  difffreace  between  the  Circassian,  the  Moor,  and  the  Per- 


sian. 


The  costumes  of  the  rarious  classes  vary  considerably.  The 
dresses  of  th4  Soaniards,  and  higher  class  of  white  natives,  says 
Mr.  Bullock,  diflei-  but  little  from  those  worn  in  Europe.  The 
men  and  boys  often  appear  in  the  streets  in  the  long  cloak ; 
and  in  the  house,  light  jackets  of  printed  calico  are  generally 
worn.  They  shave  less  often  than  we  do ;  and  when  on  a 
journey,  or  as  long  as  they  are  indisposed,  that  operation  is 
not  performed. 

The  dress  of  the  ladies,  and  even  of  children,  in  the  streets, 
is  univl'Tsaliy  black  ;  the  head  of  the  foimer  is  generally  un- 
covered, or  only  a  slight  veil  thrown  over  it.  They  take  great 
pains  With  their  line  hair,  and  are  particularly  neat  about  the 
feet,  the  stockiwg  being' usually  of  tine  silk.  This  is  their 
morning  appearance,  in  which  they  are  seen  going  to  or  re- 
turning from  church,  to  the  duties  of  which  tliey  are  very  at- 
tentive. IN'o  well-regulated  family  omits  hearing  mass  every 
morning,  mosj:!}''  before  breakfast. 

On  hoiydays,  processions,  and  other  public  occasions,  the 
djesses  of  the  ladies  aj-e  very  gay,  but  not  of  such  expensive 
materials  as  tiiose  worn  by  our  lasliionables  ;  artificial  dowers 
ai-e  used  in  abundance,  but  ostrich  feathers  sparingly.  It  is 
generally  in  tlieir  carriages,  that  the  ladies  ap[)ear  in  public, 
and  very  seldom  on  horseback. 

The  dress  of  the  country  genlleinen,  or  paysanos,  is  showy 
and  expensive ;  and  when  mounted  on  their  handsome  and 
spirited  little  horses,  tb.ey  make  an  elegant  appearance.  The 
lov/er  dress  consists  of  embroidered  breeciics,  chiefly  of  colored 
leather,  open  at  the  knees,  and  ornamented  with  numbers  of 
round  silver  buttons,  and  broad  silver  lace;  a  worked  shirt 
with  high  collar  ;  and  a  tjhort  jacket  of  printed  calico,  over 
which  is  generally  thrown  an  elegant  manga,  or  cloak  of  vel- 
vet, fine  cioth,  or" line  figured  cotton,  the  manufacture  of  the 
country  ;  these  are  often  embroidered,  or  covered  with  a  pro- 
fusion of  gold  lace.  On  the  feet  are  soft  leather  shoes  or  boots, 
over  which  is  tied  a  kind  of  gaiter  peculiar  to  the  country ;  they 
are  commonly  of  cinnamon  colored  leather,  wrapped  round 
the  leg.  and  tied  with  an  ornamental  garter :  these  are  very 
expensive  a;-ticles,  the  leather  being  cut  in  relievo,  in  a  variety 
of  elegant  patterns,  which  is  done  by  the  Indians  in  the  interior 
provinces,  in  a  manner  that  would  be  difficult  to  copy  in  Eu- 
ropci.  They  are  sold  from  eight  to  forty  or  fifty  dollars  the 
pair,  and  at  that  price  yield  a  poor  remuneration  to  the  makers. 


DO  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

MKXICO. 


Yet  Ihey  are  an  article  of  great  consequence  in  tlie  fittinj];  our 
of  the  Mexican  beau,  wlio  often  ;i|-)pears  in  tliis  l<ind  of  buot, 
richly  enil)r()ide)'cd  in  trold  and  silver,  which  costs  upwards  of 
one  lunidred  dollars.  The  stn-ru|)aand  sjiurs  correspond  in 
niairni licence  and  workmanship  to^in-  boots.  The  hut  is  of 
various  colors,  large,  and  the  crown  very  tiat  and  low,  bound 
Avith  broadgoldor  silver  lace,  and  with  a  lar,!jre  round  band  and 
fringe  of  the  same.  They  are  elegant  and  well  calciilaled  to 
guard  the  head  and  shoulders  from  the  sun.  The  decorations 
of  the  horse  are  also  expensive  ;  the  great  Sjianish  saddle  with 
its  broad  Haps,  is  richly  embroidered  willi  silk,  gold,  and  silver, 
while  those  of  the  lower  classes  are  of  wood.  The  bridle  is  small 
with  a  very  large  and  powerful  bit,  by  means  of  which  the  riders 
suddenly  stop  their  tine  little  horses,  when  at  full  speed. 

The  dresses  of  the  coioilnj  ladies  are  showy,  but  not  elegant ; 
worked  shifts,  with  a  light  open  jacket,  and  a  richly  embroider- 
ed or  spangled  petticoat,  of  bright  colored  soft  cloth,  (often  scar- 
Jet  or  i)ink,)  seem  to  be  the  unvaryintr  costume. 

Tlie  dress  of  the  poorer  clu.sae.f,  and  Indians,  varies  in  the  dif- 
ferent provinces.  In  the  capital,  the  dress  of  the  Indian  men  is 
described  by  Mr.  Bullock  as  consisting  of  a  straw  hat;  close 
jacket  with  shoit  sleeves  of  dark-colored  coarst;  woollen  or 
leather;  short  breeches,  open  at  the  knees,  also  of  leather,  or 
sometimes  of  goat's  skin,  witli  the  hair  outwards  ;  and  untler 
this,  full  calico  trousers  reaching  to  the  middle  of  the  leg. 
Sometimes  sandals  of  leather  are  worn.  The  women  appear 
in  little  more  than  a  petticoat  and  short  jacket,  with  their  long 
raven  tresses  platted  with  red  tape. 

'JVie  ai>])f.-araiice  of  the  coiuilnj  pcoph'  at  Acapulco,  says  Capt. 
Hall,  diliers  from  that  of  the  South  Americans.  Their  fea- 
tures and  color  jiartake  somewhat  of  the  Malay  cliaracter  ; 
their  foreheads  are  broad  and  square;  their  ey<.'s  small,  and 
not  deep  seated;  their  cheek-bones  jirominent ;  and  their 
heads  covered  with  black  str.iight  hair;  their  stature  about 
the  medium  standard  ;  their  frame  compact  ami  well  made. 
These  art;  the  ct)untry  people,  who  come  to  market  with  poul- 
try, fruit,  and  vegetables,  and  are  generally  seen  seated  in  the 
shade  under  the  veiinidalis  of  th<^  hou.ses,  or  in  their  own  ran- 
chas,  which  aie  sheds  made  of  mats  loosely  jiinned  together. 
We  took  notice  of  another  class,  less  savage  in  ap|)i'arance 
than  that  thus  described,  and  ratlier  more  interesting;  they  are 
th(.'  hihorfia and  n/rriem  of  tjuidens  emj)loyi'd  abf)Ut  the  town  : 
a  tall  bold-looking,  ."strong  race  of  men;  they  wear  a  hat,  the 
crown  of  which  is  raised  not  more  than  three  inches  above  a 
rim  of  such  unusual  width  that  it  .serves  as  an  umbrella  to 
shade  the  whole.  Houuil  their  neck  is  suspended  a  larire  flap 
of  stilf  yellow  leather,  reaching  below  the  middle,  and  nearly 
meeting'  a  pair  olgreaves  of  the  same  material,  wli:<:i  envelope 
the  thigh  ;  the  calves  of  the  leg  arc  in  like  manuei  wrapped 
round  with  jjieces  of  leather,  tied  carelessly  on  with  a  tMbng ; 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  97 

NEGROES. — 'FOOD. 

over  the  foot  is  drawn  a  sort  of  wide  unlaced  half  boot,  which 
is  left  to  float  out  like  a  wing  from  the  ankle.  These  figures 
are  striking,  and  highly  picturesque.  Their  color  is  a  bright 
copper,  and  they  probably  have  some  intermixture  of  Spanish 
blood  in  their  veins. 

The  negroes  form  a  third  class  at  Acapulco.  They  were 
originally  imported  from  Africa  ;  but  in  the  course  of  time, 
they  have  become  a  mixed  race  with  the  Aborigines,  and  thus, 
also,  may  possibly  partake  of  a  sUght  dash  of  Spanish  blood. 
The  result,  however,  is  a  very  fine  race  of  men.  They  retain 
the  sleek,  glossy,  and  dark  tint  of  the  negro,  and  his  thick  lip; 
along  with  which  we  now  see  the  smaller  form,  the  higher  fore- 
head, prominent  cheek-bone,  the  smaller  eye,  and  the  straight 
hair  of  the  Mexicans ;  together  with  many  other  mingled  traits 
which  a  closer  observation  would  be  able  to  discriminate,  but 
which  a  stranger  Ls  merely  conscious  of  seeing,  without  his 
being  able  to  define  exactly  in  what  the  peculiarity  consists.  It 
may  be  remarked,  that,  in  the  Spanish  transatlantic  posses- 
sions, we  find  a  greater  variety  of  intermixtures  or  crosses  of 
the  human  species  than  are  met  with  in  Europe,  or,  perhaps,  in 
any  other  part  of  the  world.  The  tribes  of  Indians,  in  the  first 
place,  are  numerous,  and  distinct  from  one  another  ;  the  Span- 
iards themselves  diiler  in  depth  of  color,  and  in  figure,  accord- 
ing to  their  several  provinces;  and,  lastly,  the  African  differs 
from  that  of  the  whole. 

Throughout  the  table-land,  maize  forms  iheprindpal  nourish- 
ment both  of  men  and  animals.  The  natives  have  various 
methods  of  preparing  it.  They  are  very  fond  of  a  gruel  made 
of  the  flour,  and  sweetened  with  honey.  But  their  most  com- 
mon method  of  cooking  it  is  in  cakes,  which  they  eat  with 
beans  and  chile  pepper. 

The  potato  and  yam  are  cultivated,  both  on  the  table-land 
and  in  the  low  country ;  and  in  the  latter,  they  raise  a  small 
quantity  of  rice.  But,  next  to  the  Indian  corn,  the  banana 
plant,  and  the  manioc  root,  are  the  principal  articles  of  food. 
The  banana,  Humboldt  remarks,  is,  for  all  the  inhabitants  of 
the  torrid  zone,  what  wheat,  barley,  and  rye,  are  for  western 
Asia  and  Europe,  and  what  the  numerous  varieties  of  rice  are 
for  the  countries  beyond  the  Indus.  I  doubt,  he  says,  whether 
there  is  another  plant  on  the  globe,  which,  on  so  small  a  space 
of  ground,  can  produce  so  considerable  a  i:nass  of  nutritive 
substance.  Eight  or  nine  months  after  the  sucker  has  been 
planted,  the  banana  commences  developing  its  clusters  ;  and 
the  fruit  may  be  collected  in  the  tenth  or  eleventh.  The  fruit  is 
often  eight  inches  long,  and  a  cluster  has  sometimes  ISO  fruits, 
weighing  80  pounds.  ^The  plant  is  cultivated  with  little  care, 
and^'produces  in  a  few  months  after  it  is  planted;  1,000  ieei  of 
land  Avill  sometimes  produce  4,000  lbs.  of  nutritive  substance; 
and  the  root  is  made  into  sweetmeats.  It  would  be  difficult  to 
describe  the  numerous  preparations  by  which  the  Americans 
9 


98  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 


MEXICO. 


render  the  fruit  of  the  mitsa,  both  before  and  after  its  maturity, 
a  wholesome  and  agreeable  diet.  I  have  frequently  seen  in 
ascending  rivers,  that  the  natives,  after  the  greatest  fatigue, 
make  a  coni|)lete  dinner  on  a  vei'V  small  portion  of  manioc 
and  three  bananas  of  the  large  kind.  The  ripe  fruit  of  the 
musa,  whej^  exposed  to  the  ann,  is  preserved  like  our  figs. 
The  skin  b^)mes  black,  and  takes  a  particular  odor,  which 
resembles  thaTof  smoked  ham.  The  fruit  in  this  state  is  called 
])lut(iit(>  jxtssadi),  and  is  an  article  of  commerce  in  the  iiiten- 
dency  of  Mechoacan.  Meal  is  extracted  from  the  nuisa,  by 
cutting  the  green  fruit  in  slices,  drying  it  in  the  sun  on  a  slope, 
and  jiounding  it,  when  it  becomes  friable.  The  flour,  less 
used  in  Mexico  than  in  the  islands,  niay  snrve  for  tlie  same 
use  as  flour  from  rice  or  maize.  The  facilily  with  v.hicii  the 
banana  is  re-produced  from  its  roots,  gives  it  an  extraordinary 
advantage  over  fruit-trees,  and  even  over  the  bread-fruit  tree, 
which,  for  eight  months  in  the  year,  is  loaded  with  farinace- 
ous fruit.  The  green  fruit  of  the  musa  is  eaten  dressed,  like 
the  bread-fruit,  or  the  potato;  but  the  flour  of  tiie  manioc  is 
converted  into  bread.  The  proper  name  of  the  [»lant,  the  root 
of  which  yields  the  nutritive  Hour  of  the  niiinioc,  is  jucd. 
There  are  two  species;  ihv  jura  diilci',  the  root  of  which  may 
be  eaten  without  danger ;  and  the  jura  avuirga,  which  con- 
tains an  active  jinison.  It  is  the  root  of  the  latter,  however, 
which  is  generally  made  into  bread,  the  poisonous  juice  being 
carefully  pressed  oiit. 

The  inhabitants  of  the  internal  ]'.rovinces,  who  are  chiefly 
whites  or  rejiuted  wliites,  live  almost  exclu.sively  on  wheaten 
bread.  The  Mexican  wheat,  cultivated  in  the  "temperate  re- 
gions, is  of  tin*  very  best  quality,  and  ma)' he  compared,  IJum- 
boldt  says,  with  the  finest  Andalusian  grain.  America  is  ex- 
tremely lich  in  vegetables  with  nutritive  roots,  among  which 
are  iiie  w</,  the  b<>la/>\  and  the  i'^iiame.  A  small  black  bean  is 
also  very  extensively  cultivated,  and  the  quantities  of  red  }>ep- 
per  rai.-,ed  in  all  parts  of  the  country,  is  almost  ineredihie.  The 
Mexican,  says  Mr.  Kobinson,  would  rather  go  without  bread, 
than  lack  chile  with  his  meat.  Loth  in  its  green  and  dried 
state,  the  quantity  consumed  is  incredible.  Vv^hen  mushed, 
and  mixed  with  a  little  water,  it  is  the  universal  sauce  on  the 
tables  of  the  great;  while  with  liie  poor,  it  forms  a  component 
l^art  of  th(!ir  diet.  M<ire  tiian  one  third  of  the  Mexican  popu- 
lation live,  throughout  the  year,  chieily  on  larfillni-;  or  cakes 
with  chile  spread  on  them,  as  butler  is  with  us.  On  days  of 
festivity,  they  have  occnsionaliy  a  change  of  diet,  by  tiieaddi- 
t.on  of  a  few  eggs  or  a  little  bioth  ;  but  they  n.n'er  relinquish 
thf'ir  f  ivorite  cliile.  A  stranger  has  great  di/Ficulty,  nt  first,  to 
bear  with  the  food  prepared  with  cfiile  ;  but  after  .'jis  pal;i;i' 
has  become  accustomed  to  it.o  stimulus,  it  ceases  to  excoriatr. 
uiid  he  crows  as  fond  of  it  as  the  Indians  and  fnoles, 

'»st  interesting  sights  tn  nn  inquisitive  stranger 
-  Mr.  Dull'jck,"is  a  ramble  early  in  the  n'ornin;- 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  99 

MARKETS. 

to  the  canal  which  leads  to  the  Lake  of  Chalco.     There,  hun- 
dreds of  Indian  canoes,  of  diiferent  form.^  and  sizes,  freighted 
with  the  greatest  variety  of  the  animal  and  vegetable  produc- 
tions of  the  neighborhood,  are  constantly  arrivinj^ :  they  are 
f)-eqnently  navigated  by  native  women,  accompanied  by  theij; 
families.    The  finest  cultivated  vegetables,  which  are  produced 
in  European  gardens,  v/ith  tlie  numberless  fruits  of  the  torrid 
zone,  of  many  of  wliich  even  the  names  are  not  known  to  us, 
are  piled  up  in  pvramids,  and  decorated  with  the  most  gaudy 
flowers.     In  the  front  of  tlie  canoes,  the  Indian  women,  very 
sUtjhtly  clothed,  with  their  long,  glossy  tresses  of  jet  black  hair 
fioNving  luxuriouslv  to  t!ic  v.'aist,  and  often  v/ith  an  infant  fas- 
tened to  their  backs,  push  the  canoes  forward  with  long  slender 
poles.     In  the  centre,  under  cover,  the  remainder  of  the  family 
are  seated,  mostly  ei"nplo)^ed  in  spinning  cotton,  or  v,-eavingit, 
in  their' simple  portable  looms,   into  narrow  webs  of  blue  and 
while  cloth,  which  firms  their  principal  clothing.     Other  boats 
are  loaded  witii  meat,  fowls,  turkeys,  and  a  profusion  of  wild 
ducks,  which  they  pluck  and  prepare  on  their  road  to  market; 
generally  throwing  the  feathers,  which  they  consider  of  no 
value,  into  the  water.     Others  again  are  freighted  with  Indian 
corn  in  bulk  or  stravr,  the  genera!  food  for  horses,  reared  like 
floating  pyramids.     J.lilk,  butter,  iiuit,  and  young  kids,  are  all 
in  the  greatest  plenty ;  and,  what  adds  to  the  picturesque  ap- 
pearau'ce  of  the  whole,  is,  that  nearly  every  canoe  has  a  quan- 
tity of  i-ed   and  white  poppies  spread  on  the  top  of  the  other 
commodities ;  and,  if  there  be  a  man  on  board,  he  is  usually 
employed  in  strumming  on  a  simple  guitar  for  the  amusement 
of  the  rest.     The  whole  of  this  busy" scene  is  conducted  with 
the  greatest  harmony  and   coi'diality.     These  simple  people 
seldom  pass  each  other  without  saluting.     Buenos  dias,  Senor. 
or  Seuora,  is  in  every  mouth,  and  they   embrace  each  other 
with  all  the  ap]ioar;ince  of  sincerity. 

They  land  their  cargoes  a  little  to  the  south  of  the  palace, 
near  the  great  market ;  and  remove  their  various  commodities 
on  their  backs  to  the  placa,  whcu-e  they  deposite  them  for  sale. 
This  market  is  well  worth  visiting  at  an  early  hour ; — then, 
thousands  of  Indians,  assembled  with  their  various  com.modi- 
ties  for  sale,  many  of  them  fiom  a  considerable  distance,  form 
one  of  the  most  animated  sights  that  can  be  witnessed. 

The  meat  market  is  tolerably  well  supplied  with  beef,  mut- 
ton, and  pork,  not  of  the  very  best  quality,  but  by  no  means 
bad  ;  and  there  is  game  in  abundance,  wild  ducks,  birds  of 
various  sorts,  venison,  hares,  rabbits,  turkeys, — not  to  speak 
of  tortoises,  frogs,  a  sort  of  shrimp,  and  axolotes,  (a  species 
of  salamander  resembling  a  water-newt,)  all  good  eating.  The 
profusion  and  variety  of  fruits  and  vegetables  are  greater 
than  in  any  other  market  in  Europe  or  America.  The  great 
market,  says  Mr.  Bullock,  is  larger  than  Covent  Garden,  but 
yet  unequal  to  contain  the  quantity  daily  exposed  to  sale.  The 
ground  is  entirely  covered  with  every  European  kind,  and 


100  LTNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

MEXICO. 


with  many,  the  very  names  of  which  we  liave  scarcely  heard. 
Besides  tlu^  articles  riiniislKHl  for  the  table,  numbers  oT  Indians 
dispose  of  wool,  cotton,  coarse  calico,  manufactured  skins, 
earthen  ware,  baskets,  &c. :  and  it  is  an  amnsins  scene  to  wit-, 
ness  them  collected  in  lar^je  parties,  with  their  cliildren,  seated 
on  the2;round,  enjoying  their  frugal  nw„\h  of  larlillas  and  chile 
But,  uid()rtunuteiy,  in  the  lanes  near  the  market  are  found 
numbers  f)f  f^ilcjue-shops,  (pulqucrias,)  where  the  men  are 
seen  enjoying  their  favorite  beverage,  and  indulging  in  their 
propensity  to  gaming  ;  and  in  more  than  one  instance.  I  have 
noticed  tl'iese  generally  good-natured  creatures,  wlien  heated 
by  the  piclque  or  a£ruar(Hen(e,  and  soured  by  the  ill  fortune  of 
the  day,  venting  their  disappointment  on  the  persons  of  their 
unoHending  wives. 

"  Of  drinks,  there  are  in  Mexico,  unfortunately,  too  many 
that  intoxicate,  and  their  injurious  elfects  are  too  apjiarent 
upon  the  Indians  and  poorer  population.  The  most  usual 
drink,  not  excepting  perhajis  even  water,  is  the  pulque.^  a  liquor 
jiroduccd  from  a  variety  of  the  aisave  a»ifn-icaiia.  The  taste 
is  agreeably  acid,  and  it  is,  perhap.s,  of  all  intoxicalingli(iuids, 
the  most  hurtful.  It  is  the  juice  of  the  plant,  obtained  by  cut- 
ting off  the  .shoot  just  before  it  is  burstin.g  out  to  flower;  it  is 
so  hollowed  that  the  juice  tills  the  cavity  left,  and  so  a!)midant 
is  the  sap,  that  it  is  dipped  out  several  times  in  the  day.  A 
plant  even  in  a  barren  soil  produces  one  hundred  and  fifty 
fjottlef!  of  pi'ilquc,  though  it  is  about  16  years  befJjre  it  will  do 
to  make  the  incision.  Humboldt  calls  "the  maguey  the  vine  of 
the  Aztecs,  and  tlie  natives  prefer  the  pulque  to  all  wines,  and 
their  preference  is  justified  by  many  Europeans.  A  very  in- 
toxicating brandv,  called  me.rical,  is  distilled  from  the  pulque. 
The  pulque  has  "unfortmiately  the  best  flavor,  when  it  has  the 
least  fragrance,  as  it  has  often  when  in  its  best  state,  a  fetid 
odor,  though  as  this  is  not  universal,  it  may,  perhaps,  when 
the  cultivators  have  more  skill,  be  remedied.  The  consump- 
tion of  pulque  in  the  city  is  estimated  at  44,000,000  of  bottles 
annually." 

'J'hrre  is  lUtU  tran-lling  iu  Mf.ricn,  and  of  course  the  accom- 
modations for  travellers  are  far  from  being  good.  The  na- 
tives seldom  wander  beyond  the  ]irecincts  of  iheir  own  neigh- 
borhotid,  though  tliere  are  many  inducements  to  travel.  Mex- 
ico is  a  country  made  up  of  the  beautifiil  ;ind  the  grand  ;  yet 
it  la  a  service  of  toil  and  danger  to  explore  even  the  n)ost  fre- 
quented parts.  It  is  surroimried  by  a  sickly  coast,  where  the 
gates  of  death  are  always  open.  The  malaria  that  spares  the 
native  is  fatal  to  the  stranger  ;  under  a  beautiful  sky,  surround- 
ed by  the  magnificent  vegetation  of  the  tropics,  the  foreigner 
inhales  the  airs  of  fragrance,  that  are  loaded  with  death.  Yet 
the  foreigner  explores  Mexico,  while  the  native  feels  no  cu- 
riosity. 

The  rnntla  in  Mexico,  which  under  the  auspices  of  the 
mother  country  were  beginning  to  be  good,  have,  since  the 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  101 

TRAVELLING. 


•ieclaration  of  independence,  been  sadly  neglected.     The  ve- 
hicles for  travelling  usually  correspond  to  the  nature  of  the 
roads;  they  have  therefore  more  strength  than  elegance  in 
this  country ;  requiring  not  unfrequently  eight  or  ten  mules  to 
draw  them.    They  are  not  always  furnished  even  with  springs. 
"  A  traveller  who  goes  from  the  coast  to  the  city  of  Mexico, 
even  over  the  most  frequented  route,  must  move  like  an  emi- 
grant in  our  western  states,  taking  with  him  his  household 
goods.     The  inns  alFord  little  but  slu»lter,  and  that  of  no  envi- 
able kind,  and  he  must  carry  beds,  provisions,  and  means  for 
defence.     The  haciendas  are  substantial  farm-houses,  and  of- 
ten with  a  shop  and  church  annexed  ;  yet  they  furnish  little  but 
provender  for  horses  and  mules ;  few  of  the  proprietors  will 
from  motives  of  interest  or  hospitality  minister  much  to  a 
traveller's  comfort;  and  no  intelligent  wayfarer  expects  either 
neatness  or  comfort.     A  posada  is  often  but  a  shed  open  like 
a  bird-cage  at  the  sides,  and  whatever  passes  within  may  be 
seen  without:  beds,  there  are  none,  and  he  is  most  fortunate 
in  a  company  of  travellers,  who  secures  a  bench  or  table  to 
stretch  himself  upon.     In  the  haciendas,  a  single  large  hall 
only  is  given  to  travellers,  and  here,  as  in  the  inns,  there  can 
be  no  altercation  for  a  choice  of  beds.     In  the  inns,  however, 
there  are  several  small  rooms  for  travellers.     The  usual  price 
for  this  shelter  is  a  quarter  of  a  dollar.     The  Mexicans,  how- 
ever, if  of  humble  pretensions  as  publicans,  are  yet  excellent 
travelling  servants,  faithful,  obliging,  and  of  great  good  nature. 
To  call  them  honest  is  but  to  say  that  they  have  the  national 
character :  the  baggage  is  often  left  undefended,  under  a  shed ; 
though  the  unquiet  state  of  Mexico  has  been  a  school  to  pro- 
duce" robbers,  that  now  infest  the  broken  parts  of  the  country. 
"The  Mexican  horses  are  also  well  adapted  to  travelling: 
they  are  small  but  spirited.     They  have  a  peculiar  gait,  called 
faso^  and  so  little  is  any  other  in  esteem,  that  to  trot  is  consid- 
ered as  a  defect  in  a  horse,  and  reduces  his  price  two  thirds, 
or  to  fifty  dollars.     A  good  horse  will  go  in  this  gait  six  miles 
an  hour,  and  the  motion  is  so  gentle  that  the  rider  is  hardly 
moved  in  his  seat.     The  fore  feet  are  raised  high  as  in  a  gal- 
lop, while  the  hindmost  feet  are  drawn  along  the  ground. 

"  The  mule,  however,  is  preferable  where  the  roads  are  steep 
and  rough :  he  is  more  patient,  hardy,  and  sagacious  in  picking 
out  his  way.  In  roads  impassable  for  wheels — and  in  Mexico 
they  are  not  a  few— the  mules  carry  a  littei-^  which  is  a  sort  of 
palanquin,  with  two  long  poles :  the  poles  are  passed  through 
the  saddle  of  the  mules,  itke  the  shafts  of  a  carriage,  so  that  one 
mule'goes  before,  and  the  otlier,  behind  the  litter.  The  motion 
of  a  litter  is  very  easy. 

"In  Mexico  the  whole  day's  journey  is  commonly  performed 
at  one  heat:  the  muleteers  seldom  stop  to  bait.  It  is  thought 
to  be  better  for  the  animals  to  give  them  a  long  time  for  rest 
and  food:  food  they  cannot  take  without  water,  which  it  is 
dangerous  to  give  them  in  the  quantities  they  require,  till  the 
9* 


102  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

MEXICO. 

iabor  of  the  day  is  done.  In  the  morning  it  lakes  nearly  two 
liours  to  finish  the  preparations  for  startinjr.  The  mules  often 
escape,  when  they  can  be  taken  only  with  the  lasso,  or  a  long 
rope  with  a  noose,  that  all  Mexican  horsemen  use  dexterously, 
and  ojeneraliy  have  attached  to  th(^  pummel  of  the  saddle. 
The  moment  tiu^  mule  feels  the  lasso  thrown  upon  him,  ho 
stands  perfecti}'  still,  but  till  then  will  not  suU'er  himself  to  be 
taken.  In  steep  places,  where  the  carriage  might  otherwise 
lose  its  balance,  the  outriders  attach  the  lassos  to  it,  and  no* 
only  preserve  the  balance,  but  aid  in  drawing  jt.  The  mules 
and  horses  are  never  littered;  they  sleep  on  plank  or  stone: 
a  curry-comb  is  unknown,  but  the  animals  are  frequently 
washed. 

"It  is  to  be  remarked  that  althon'j;h  the  horses  and  mules 
are  generally  excellent,  yet  this  description  does  not  always 
apply  to  those  furnished  to  travellers.  Mr.  Poinsett  had  oc- 
casion thus  to  describe  '  the  progress  of  dulness;'  '  We  set  off 
at  a  pallop  ;  this  lasted  till  we  cleared  the  gates  ;  it  was  then 
sobered  into  a  trot,  shortly  after  into  a  walk,  and  at  the  end 
of  four  miles  we  stood  still.'  The  same  traveller  had  after- 
wards to  send  back  for  one  of  his  servants,  who  was  found 
asleep  upon  his  horse,  the  horse  having  favored  him  with  a 
rest  of  some  hours.  Man  and  lioise  were  found  motionless 
as  the  statue  of  Charles  IV,  that  stood  in  the  great  square  of 
Mexico. 

"The  country  ladies  often  ride  upon  the  same  horse  with  a 
gentleman,  though  there  arc  no  pillions  ;  the  gentleman  rides 
behind,  supporting  his  companion  with  one  arm.  It  is  also  a 
common  mark  of  politeness  to  jiut  his  own  wide  hat  on  the 
lady's  head,  and  to  tie  up  his  own  with  a  handkerchief."* 

TIiP  Mexicans,  in  their  amitsemenis,  follow,  in  a  great  meas- 
ure, the  taste  of  the  mother  country.  Bull-fights  are  common, 
but  not  as  sanguinary  as  in  Spain,  llie  love  of  gaming  per- 
vades all  classes;  ladies,  priests,  soldiers,  laborers,  Inclians, 
devote  so  much  time  to  it,  that  it  deserves  to  be  styli'd  an  em- 
ployment, rather  than  an  amusement.  In  the  public  squares 
of  Mexico,  gaming  parties  are  almost  always  to  be  seen,  and 
with  such  zeal  is  it  conducted,  that  the  last  coin  is  staked,  and 
if  (hat  be  lost,  the  very  cloak  which  covers  the  shoulder  is 
laid  upon  the  stand.  Cock  lighting  is  the  favorite  national 
pastime.  People  of  all  ranks  unite  in  the  amus(>ment,  and  at 
tJie  tock-pit  all  are  on  an  eipial  footing.  Hrokers  are  jirescnt, 
with  whom  the  stakes  are  deposited,  and  who  pay  over  the 
money  to  the  winners,  receiving  a  small  compensation  from 
each  of  the  parties.  Cocks  are  usually  armed  with  slashes, 
or  knives,  which  commonly,  on  the  one  side  or  the  other,  does 
the  work  of  execution  in  a  short  time.  The  government  li- 
censes this  sport,  and  receives  a  revenue  from  it. 

•  Goodrich's  Universal  Geography. 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  103 


EDUCATION. — AGRICULTURE. 


Ample  legislatii-e  provision  has  been  made  by  the  Mexican 
government  to  furnish  the  means  of  ediicalion,  but  as  yet  little 
beyond  this  has  been  done ;  and  since  the  separation  of  the 
country  from  the  dominion  of  Spain,  it  is  doubtful  whether  the 
facilities  for  obtaining  a  thorough  education  are  equal  to  what 
they  were  before  that  event.  The  University  of  Mexico  has, 
at  present,  but  few  students;  several  inferior  colleges  and 
schools  exist,  under  the  direction  of  the  clergy.  The  higher 
classes  are  generally  educated  in  private.  Few  bookstores, 
and  but  few  private  libraries,  are  to  be  found.  The  Cathedral 
has  a  lartie  library,  chiefly  confined  to  works  on  theology. 
The  inhabitants  of  the  city,  it  is  said,  are  generally  able  to  read 
and  write :  even  men  in  the  garb  of  poverty,  may  be  seen  read- 
ing in  the  streets  the  newspapers  of  the  day.  The  education 
o^females  has  been  greatly  neglected ;  bvt  with  the  few  ad- 
vantages which  they  have  enjoyed,  there  are  to  be  found  ladies 
of  no  small  information  and  intelligence. 

The  agriculture  of  Mexico  is  by  no  means  as  flourishing  as 
might  be  expected,  from  its  natural  resources ;  although  con- 
siderable improvement  has  been  affected  of  late  years.  The 
principal  agricultural  productions  are  grapes  and  nutritive 
roots,  the  banana,  and  the  manioc,  to  which  may  be  added 
maize,  wheat,  &c.  Rye  and  barley  are  cultivated  on  the  higher 
regions,  but  only  to  a  small  extent.  Oats  do  not  answer  well. 
Po'tatoes  are  abundant.  The  Mexicans  have  now  all  the  culi- 
nary vegetables  and  fruit  trees  of  Europe.  Travellers  are 
surprised  to  see  the  tables  of  the  wealthy  inhabitants  loaded 
with  the  vegetable  productions  of  both  continents,  in  the  most 
perfect  state. 

The  fecundity  of  lands  which  are  well  cultivated,  is  surpri- 
singly great,  especially  those  which  are  suitably  watered. 
"  In  the' most  fertile  part  of  the  table-land  between  Q,ueretaro 
and  Leon,  the  wheat  harvest  is  35  and  40  for  1;  and  several 
farms  can  even  reckon  on  50  or  60  for  1.  At  Cholulo  the 
common  return  is  from  30  to  40,  but  it  frequently  exceeds  from 
70  to  SO  for  1.  In  the  valley  of  Mexico  maize  yields  200,  and 
wheat  18  or  20.  The  mean  produce  of  the  whole  country 
may  be  stated  at  20  or  25  for  1.  M.  A  bad,  a  canon  of  the 
metropolitan  church  of  Valladolid  de  Mechoacan,  took  at 
random  from  a  field  of  wheat  forty  plants,  when  he  found  that 
each  seed  had  produced  forty,  sixty,  and  even  seventy  stalks. 
The  number  of  grains  which  the  ears  contained  frequently  ex- 
ceeded 100  or  120,  and  the  average  amount  appeared  to  be 
90.  Some  even  exhibited  160.  A  few  of  the  elevated  tracts, 
however,  are  covered  with  a  kind  of  clay  impenetrable  by  the 
'  roots  of  herbaceous  plants,  and  others  are  arid  and  naked,  in 
which  the  cactus  and  other  prickly  shrubs  alone  vegetate. 

"  The  following  table  exhibits  the  mean  produce  of  the  cereal 
plants  in  different  countries  of  both  continents  : — 


104  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

MEXICO. 

In  p-rance,  from  5  to  0  grains  for  1. 

In  Hini!<iir>-,  Croatiri,  and  tjclavonia,  from  8  to  10  grains. 

Ill  r.a  Flnia,  1-2  prains. 

In  theriorthern  part  of  Mexico,  17  grains. 

In  <(|ninoclial  Mexico,  24  gniins. 

In  tiie  province  of  Pasto  in  Santa  Fe,  25  grams. 

In  tilt.-  plain  of  dixaniarca  in  Peru,  IS  to  20  grains. 

Me.Tico  prodiicea  the  Coc/iineal,  the  name  of  a  valiiahN^  scar- 
let dye,  obtained  from  an  insect  (tlie  Cocccs  Cadi  of  natural- 
ists) uhicl)  it)  found  on  the  prickly  pear  tice,  called  A'ajxil  by 
tiic  Indians.  This  tree  is  genera lly  planted  by  the  Indians  near 
their  haliitations.  In  holes  about  half  a  yard  deep,  and  about 
two  yards  distant  from  each  other,  one  or  two  leaves  of  the 
nopal  aie  i)laced  in  a  Hat  position,  and  then  covered  with  earth. 
These  leaves  grow  up  into  a  sinp;le  stem,  which  divides  into 
blanches  that  successively  produce  fiesh  leaves.  The  stem 
and  branches  are  full  of  knots,  from  which  the  leaves  p;row. 
The  plant  is  usualh' about  three  yards  in  iiei;j;ht.  The  decayed 
branches  are  carefully  removed,  and  the  plants  kejit  free  of 
all  kinds  of  weeds.  A  collection  of  these  trees  forms  a  Nopa- 
lerie.  The  female  cocldneal  insects  are  placed  about  the  15th 
of  October,  in  a  number  of  small  nests  amdiipi;  the  leaves  of  the 
nopal,  and  they  immediately  wander  over  the  plant  in  (jtiest  of 
the  particular  branches  to  which  they  attach  themselves,  and 
during  the  time  of  breeding,  they  are  preserved  with  the  utmost 
care,  i'vom  \iolent  winds,  frosts,  6cc.  and  from  the  dejireda- 
tions  of  j>articular  birds,  worms,  &.c.  After  atlainins  llieir  full 
growth,  they  are  put  into  earthen  pots  ;  and  when  tluy  have 
been  confined  for  some  time,  they  are  killefi,  generally  by 
means  of  hot  water,  and  after  being  dried,  are  put  into  bags. 
On  the  manner  of  drying  it,  the  color  which  is  obtained  chiefly 
depends.  The  best  is  that  which  is  drieil  in  the  sun.  Three 
gathering  are  made  in  a  year;  but  the  last  gathering  is  the 
least  valued.  The  cochineal  exported  from  Vera  Cruz  in 
1S03,  was  valued  at  several  millions  of  dollars. 

The.  rcltixion  of  Mi.vico  is  altogether  Catholic.  The  clergy 
possess  great  influence,  though  it  is  now  on  the  decline  ;  their 
number  is  estimatt^d  at  at)oi!t  ten  thousand  ;  half  of  whicli  arc 
regular  and  wear  the  cowl.  They  foi  merly  jiossessed  im- 
mense estates ;  but  within  a  few  years  these  have  been  redu- 
ced to  less  than  20  millions.  The  highest  salary  enjoyed  by 
any  bishoj)  is  130,000  dollars,  and  the  least  is  GOOO.  Ko  pro- 
testant,  until  converted,  may  marry  a  Roman  Catholic.  Mar- 
riages are  celebraicd  wilh  some  pomp  ; — for  this  ceremony  the 
jtriest  receives  froin  parties,  even  of  low  rank,  twenty-two  dol- 
lars, and  this  in  a  country  where  the  price  of  labor  is  only  one 
(juarter  of  a  dollar  a  day,  and  but  17.3  daj's  allowed  by  tlie 
church,  in  which  a  good  Roman  Catliolic  may  work. — Mexi- 
can funerals  are  attended  with  little  ceremon)'.  A  coffin  is 
employed  to  convey  the  bfidy  to  the  grave;  but  there  it  is 
taken  out  and  consigned  to  the  earth  without  it. 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  105 

WEST  INDIES. 


Immediately  south  of  Alexico,  of  which  we  are  now  to  take 
leave,  lies  Guatemala,  a  country  of  large  extent — not  less,  it 
is  said,  tlian  eleven  hundred  miles  in  length,  and  four  hundred 
and  eighty  in  its  greatest  breadth.  Its  inhabitants  amount, 
however,  to  but  little  more  than  a  million  and  a  half,  of  which 
only  280,000  are  whites  ;  the  remainder  are  Indians,  and  mixed 
races.  Some  of  the  Indian  tribes  are  represented  as  savage 
and  ferocious  ;  hence,  we  liave  no  disposition  to  venture  our- 
selves, or  the  companions  of  our  wanderings,  among  them. 
And  in  respect  to  the  manners  and  customs  of  the  wliite  in- 
habitants, they  bear  so  strong  a  resemblance  to  tliose  of  Mex- 
ico, that  an  excursion  thither  would  furnish  us  little  new,  or 
interesting.  We  may  remark,  however,  that  in  respect  to  the 
climate  of  Guatemala,  its  soil  and  productions,  it  strongly  re- 
sembles Mexico.  The  British  teiTitory  on  the  bay  of  Hondu- 
ras, has  long  been  celebrated  for  its  mahogany  and  logwood. 
All  sorts  of  grain  and  fruits  are  produced  in  great  abundance, 
but  the  two  principal  productions,  best  known  to  commerce, 
are  indigo  and  cochineal.  Guatemala  indigo  is  among  the 
best  in  tiie  world.  The  religion  is  Catholic;  the  government 
nominally  republican,  the  country  having  declared  itself  an 
independent  state  in  1823. 


8.  V7EST  INDIES. 


East  of  Mexico,  at  the  entrance  of  its  well  known  Gulf,  is 
an  extensive  cluster  of  Islands,  known  by  the  name  of  the 
West  Indies.  This  name  was  given  to  them  by  Columbus, 
who  first  discovered  them,  under  the  notion  that  they  were  con- 
nected  with  the  continent  of  India.  These  Islands  we  shall 
not  attempt  to  visit,  but  pausing  where  we  are  a  few  hours 
longer,  I  will  in  brief  terms  give  such  an  account  of  them  as 
shall  supersede  the  necessity  of  a  personal  visit.  In  the  mean 
while,  we  shall  gather  strength,  which  will  be  demanded  in  a 
still  more  southern  tour. 

Navigators  distinguish  these  Islands  into  the  Windward  and 
Leeward  Islands;  sometimes  they  are  called  the  Carihhee 
Islands,  the  Great  and  Little  Antilles,  and  the  Columbian  Ar- 
chipelago. Of  these  islands,  Spain  claims  Cuba  and  Porto 
Rico ;  Hayti,  better  known  by  the  name  of  Hispaniola,  or  St. 
Domingo,  is  independent.  The  British  Islands  are  Jamaica, 
Trinidad,  Tobago,  Grenada,  Barbadoes,  St.  Vincent,  Domin- 
ica, Montserrat,  Antigua.  Nevis,  St.  Christopher's,  Tortola, 
the  Bahamas  or  Lucayos,  and  the  Bermudas.  The  French 
possessions  are  Martinique,  Gaudaloupe,  and  Marie  Gallante. 
The  Dutch  own  St.  Martin,  St.  Eustatius,  and  Curacoa.  To 
Denmark  belong  St.  John,  St.  Thomas,  and  Santa  Cruz.  Swe-r 
den  has  the  singlii  island  of  St.  Bartholomew. 


106  UXIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

WE3T  INDIES. 

The  inhahilanla  of  the.  West  Ind'u-.-^,  Ijelonging  as  tlioy  do  to 
various  nations,  ijre  greatly  diversifjod  ;.  they  consist  of  Cre- 
oles, .Si>aniards,  French,  Germans,  Danes,  &c.  The  mixed 
races  are  numerons,  and  the  negroes  (he  most  numerous  of  all. 
Slavery  exists  in  these  islands,  except  in  those  belonifinfx  to 
Great  Britain,  in  which  it  has  been  recently  abolished.     The 

>s  ro- 
eyes 


gen- 


J  —      -_ _-_  — J   

Creoles  are  generally  tailor  than  the  Euro|)eans,  but  les 
bust.  They  ar-^  (juit(!  graceful  in  their  motions.  Their 
are  deeper  set  than  among  the  natives  of  Europe,  but  are  ^_, 
erall}"^  brilliant  and  expressive.  Inhabiting  a  warm  climate, 
their  dress  is  liglit  and  loose.  Their  buildings,  by  reason  of 
exposure  to  eartlxpiakes,  are  low,  and  are  constructed  with 
reference  to  comfort  and  coolness,  rather  than  ostentation. 
The  food  of  the  inhabitants  is  chiefly  vegetable,  consisting  of 
the  bread-fruit,  banana  plantain,  sweet  potato,  &c.  Salt  tish 
is  extensivcl}'  eaten  b}-  the  slaves. 

Srvcral  Unieiiaires  are  spoken  in  the  "West  Indies,  as  the 
English,  French,  Spanish,  with  other  European  tongues.  The 
flisf'iisrs  to  which  Europeans  are  subject,  are  intermittent,  re- 
mittent, or  continued  fevers — the  latter  is  the  true  yellow  fever. 
Creoles  and  negroes  are  subject  to  intermittent  fever;  Euro- 
peans, who  have  resided  some  time  in  the  West  Indies,  are 
commonly  attacked  with  fever  in  the  remittent  form  ;  whilst 
the  healthiest  and  the  strongest  of  the  newcomers  arc  subject 
to  the  continued  or  yellow  fever.  Of  late  years,  however,  yel- 
low fever  in  its  most  malignant  form,  has  not  been  prevalent 
in  the  British  West  India  Islands.  Havana,  the  capital  of 
Cuba,  is  seldom  exempt  from  yellow  fever.  This  is  imputed 
by  Captain  Alexander,  to  a  long  marsh  of  mangroves  extend- 
\n<x  from  the  side  of  the  harbor  into  the  country  to  the  east. 
The  following  fact  is  relativl  by  him  in  confirmation  of  his 
opinion.  His  Britannic  Majesty's  frigate  Aurora  arrived 
some  time  ago  at  Havana,  after  having  been  three  years  in 
the  West  Indies;  she  dropped  her  anchor  at  a  spot  where  the 
breeze  l)lowing  over  the  mangrove  swamp  could  reach  her. 
The  Pylad<'s,  a  fresh  anival  from  England,  also  anchored  for 
one  nif'ht  in  the  harbor,  but  at  the  distance  of  a  few  hundred 
yards  fi-om  the  Aurora  ;  next  morning  the  two  vessels  sailed. 
The  Aurora  lost  eighty  men  and  officers  in  a  few  weeks  from 
yellow  fever,  and  the  Pylades,  though  unaccustomed  to  the 
climate,  did  not  lose  one  hand. 

It  would  greatl}' exceed  our  limits  to  notice  the  peculiarities 
observaI)le  in  the  inhaijitants  of  the  dilll'rent  islands.  We  will 
confine  ourselves  to  thost^  of  the  inhabitants  of  Havana.  The 
rich  inhabitants  of  this  city  rise  e;uly,  take*  a  cup  of  chocolate, 
the  men  light  their  cigars,  and  stroll  about  the  balconies  till  ten 
o'clock  ;  tln"  ladies  Lrciii-raily  attend  ma?s  ;  then  a  breakfast 
of  meat  and  fish,  eggs  and  ham.  wine  and  coffee,  is  brought  in  ; 
after  these  are  discus.sed,  the  cigars  are  again  lighted  at  a  little 


CNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  107 

MANNER  OF  LIVING. 

f)an  of  charcoal  placed  on  the  middle  of  the  table,  the  elderly 
adies  using  the  cigaritto,  or  little  ciojar  wrapped  in  paper.  The 
men  then  order  the  volante,  or  walk  out,  and  the  women  either 
pay  a  visit  of  ceremony,  or  sit  at  home  to  receive  one  in  their 
rocking  chairs.  At  three  o'clock,  dinner  is  brought  in,  and 
the  meal  of  rich  made  dishes  lasts  an  hour;  the  charcoal  pan 
again  appears,  coffee  is  handed  round,  and  all  retire  to  take 
their  siesta.  In  an  hour,  the  Pasao  is  visited,  where  is  also 
the  amphitheatre  for  the  coridas  de  ioros,  (bull  fights,)  and 
when  these  take  place,  the  attraction  is  so  great,  that  it  is  ex- 
tremely difficult  to  procure  admission. 

The  Pasao  is  the  Hyde  Park  of  Havana.  In  describing  this 
public  resort.  Captain  Alexander  observes  :  "  At  the  distance 
of  half  a  mile  from  the  walls  of  the  city,  we  found  a  broad 
road  with  sidewalks  and  rovv's  of  trees.  Marble  fountains  dif- 
fused a  pleasing  coolness,  and  seats  at  intervals  were  occupied 
by  well-dressed  men.  The  ladies  were  seated  in  their  volantes, 
which  were  highly  ornamented  with  silver,  and  the  postilion, 
in  a  richly  laced  hussar  jacket.  The  volantes  followed  one 
another  at  a  slow  pace  ;  the  blue  cloth  was  removed  from  the 
'front  of  the  volante,  and  the  fair  Cubannas  sat  revealed  in  all 
their  charms  to  the  adaiiring  gaze  of  the  loungers." 

The  donnas  v/ere  all  clothed  in  virgin  white,  wore  no  head 
dress,  except  beautifully  carved  and  very  large  tortoise  shell 
combs,  the  fashion  of  which  alters  every  month,  entailing  a 
heavy  expense  on  husbands  and  fathers.  Their  hair  was 
"  dark  as  the  curtain,  of  nightovershadowing  the  burning  heart 
of  a  lover,"  and  the  cool  breeze  of  evening  v.-antoned  with 
■their  tresses  ;  their  complexions  were  like  Parian  marble,  and 
as  they  passed  an  acquaint<'ince,  their  line  eyes  beamed  forth 
pleasure,  andivith  a  lively  sliake  of  ti;e  fan  they  lisped,  a  dios  ! 
a  dios  ! 

The.  manner  of  lii}))<^  at  an  Havana  iacern,  or  boarding 
house,  is  thus  described  by  the  same  author.  "  The  charge 
for  dinner  was  one  dollar,  for  which  abundant  fare  was  pro- 
vided, inclusive  of  French  claret.  Soups,  solids,  aud  dessert, 
v.-ere  placed  on  the  table  at  once;  the  dishes  were  crowded 
on  one  another^  and  on  the  ringing  of  the  bell,  the  company 
hastily  took  their  seats,  and  made  a  vigorous  onslaught ;  every 
one  plunged  his  fork  into'the  dish  he  hked  best. 

'•  Such  a  quantity  of  oil  and  grease,  to  say  nothing  of  garlic, 
is  used  in  Spanish  cookery,  that  I  really  could  not  '  play  the 
knife  and  fork,'  that  m.y  appetite  prompted  me  to  do,  but  con- 
trived to  allay  the  cravings  of  hunger  with  corice  and  bread 
at  the  end  of  the  feast. 

"  Tlie  company  consisted  of  Spaniards,  Germans,  French- 
men, Russians,  and  English,  captains  of  ships  ;  it  was  a  strange 
medley  both  as  to  language  and  manners.  Most  of  the  guests 
had  the  air  of  desperadoes  and  adventurers,  and  they  seemed 
very  indifferent  to  common  courtesy  in  their  behavior  to  each 


108  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 


WEST  rNDIE!?. 


■Other;  thus  at  these  houses  it  is  no  uncommon  thing  to  sec 
joints  of  meat  and  fjlasses  flying  across  the  table,  and  violent 
quarrels  endini,'  in  blows. 

"Sometimes  they  commence  in  this  way;  a  skipper  asks  for 
an  omelet  opposite  to  him  ;  a  negro  runs  roiuul  to  fetch  it ;  in 
conveying,'  it  to  the  sailor,  he  is  stopped  halfway  by  another 
gentleman,  who  coolly  seizes  the  dis'h,  cuts  the  omelet  in  two, 
takes  half  himself,  and  gives  the  other  half  to  a  friend  next 
him  ;  the  disapjiointed  skipper  vents  his  rage  by  uttering  a 
hearty  curse,  and  sends  his  glass  at  the  head  of  the  gentleman 
who  had  taken  '  the  bread  out  of  his  mouth.'" 

When  a  resppctctble  pprson  dies  in  the  Havana,  a  lofty  stage 
is  erected  in  the  principal  apartment,  covered  with  black 
drapery  and  tinsel  ornaments,  and  on  the  top  of  it  the  open 
cofiin  is  placed  at  an  angle  so  as  to  expose  the  dead  body, 
dressed  in  holyday  clothes,  to  the  spectators  below.  There  is 
also  a  great  display  of  wax  lights  in  the  room.  The  volantes 
-of  the  friends  of  tlie  deceased  being  assembled,  the  bier  is 
•placed  across  the  leading  one,  which  witii  the  postilion  and 
horse,  is  covered  with  black  cloth,  and  attended  by  slaves  in 
red  coats,  gold-laced  cocked  hats,  and  canes  in  their  hands. 
The  procession  moves  to  the  Campo  Santo.  Arrived  there, 
-the  coflin  is  taken  from  the  volante,  the  head  of  the  corpse 
being  uncovered,  and  kept  in  constant  motion  by  the  hasty 
steps  of  the  bearers.  It  is  a  ghastly  sight.  After  the  service 
is  perfoinied,  the  body  is  commonly  tumbled  unceremoniously 
4nto  a  shallow  grave,  lime  and  earth  thrown  over  it,  whilst  the 
coffin  is  returned  for  the  next  who  requires  if.  When  chil- 
dren are  buried,  the  attiMulants  sin^'  ami  play  lively  airs  be- 
fore ihom.  Trul}',  a  funeral  at  the  Havana  is  conducted  in  a 
manner  that  the  most  uncivilized  nation  might  be  ashamed  of; 
but  such  has  been  the  custom  from  time  immemorial. 

Throughout  the  West  India  Islands,  the  means  of  education 
are  extreniely  limited.  In  Hayti,  schools  are  common,  and  a 
college  was  some  years  since  founded  at  Cape  Haytien.  Many 
of  the  young  men  belonging  to  the  West  India  I.-lands  are  sent 
either  to  Kinupe,  or  Aiueiica,  for  education.  The  reliunon 
-i'aries  in  dill'erei.t  Lshinds.  In  Cuba  and  Hayti,  it  is  generally 
Catholic.  The  Islands'inostly  beloniring  to  European  powers 
are  under  governors  sent  to  them  by  the  j)arent  country. 
These  goveiiior.s  are  usually  assist»-(l  by  a  council.  The  gov- 
erment  of  Cuba  is  in  the  hands  of  a  Captain  General,  appoint- 
ed by  the  King  of  Spain.  Hayti  is  a  rejiublic,  having  a  Presi- 
dent chosen  by  the  senate  for  life.  Jamaica  has  a  governor, 
a  council  of  twelve  members,  and  a  house  of  Assembly  chosen 
••iiy  the  free-holders. 

Among  the  principal  productions  of  the  West  India  Islands, 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  109 

COFFEE. 

are  coffee  and  sugar.     These  important  articles  of  consumpn 
tion  cfescrve  a  brief  notice: 

'•  Coffee  cannot  be  cultivated  to  advantage  in  climates  where 
the  temperature  at  any  time  descends  below  55  degrees  of  Fah- 
ronheit's  scale.  The  trees  iiourish  mo.st  in  new  soils  on  a  gen- 
tle slope,  where  water  will  not  lodge  about  the  roots.  In  ex- 
posed situations  it  is  necessary  to  moderate  the  scorching  heat 
of  the  sun  by  planting  rows  of  umbrageous  trees  at  certain  in- 
tervals throughout  the  field. 

"CoITee-trees  are  usually  raised  from  seed  in  nursery 
grounds,  and  are  afterwards  planted  out  at  regular  distances, 
which  vary  according  to  the  nature  of  the  soil.  Where  this  is 
very  dry  or  gravelly,  the  trees  seldom  rise  higher  than  six  feet, 
and  may  be  planted  five  feet  apart ;  but  in  rich  soils,  where 
they  attain  the  height  of  nine  or  ten  feet,  or  more,  the  plants 
should  not  be  so  crowded,  and  intervals  of  eight  or  ten  feet 
Siiould  be  left  between  them. 

"  It  is  well  known  that  coffee  imported  from  the  West  Indies 
does  not  equal  in  its  flavor  that  produced  in  Arabia,  and  other 
parts  of  the  East;  and  it  is  commonly  imagined  that  this  infe- 
riority is  principally  owing  to  local  causes,  and  is  therefore 
incapable  of  being  remedied.  There  is  reason  for  believing, 
however,  that  the  superior  quality  of  Turkey  and  East-India 
coffee  is  not  in  any  great  degree  to  be  referred  to  the  Influen- 
ces of  soil  and  climate,  but  depends,  in  part  at  least,  upon  the 
age  to  v>'hich  the  seeds  are  kept  before  they  are  brought  into 
consumption.  Trees  planted  in  a  light  soil,  and  in  dry  and 
elevated  spots,  produce  smaller  berries,  which  have  a  better 
fiavor  than  those  grown  in  rich,  flat,  and  moist  soils :  the 
weight  of  produce  yielded  by  the  latter  is,  however,  double 
that  obiained  from  the  former  ;  and  as  the  difference  in  price 
betvv'een  the  two  is  by  no  means  adequate  to  cover  this  defi- 
ciency of  weight,  the  interest  of  the  planter  naturally  leads 
him  to  the  production  of  the  largest  but  least  .excellent  kind. 
It  is  confidently  asserted  thalthisdifference  of  quality  entirely 
disappears  by  keeping,  and  that '  the  worst  coffee  produced 
in  America  will,  in  a  course  of  years,  not  exceeding  ten  or 
fourteen,  be  as  good,  parch  and  mix  as  well,  and  have  as 
high  a  flavor,  as  the  best  we  have  now  from  Turkey.' 

'•  The  trees  begin  bearing  when  they  are  tvfo  years  old;  in 
their  third  year  they  are  in  full  bearing.  The  aspect  of  a  cof- 
fee plantation  daring  the  period  of  flowering,  which  does  not 
last  longer  than  one^'or  two  days,  is  very  interesting.  In  one 
night  the  blossoms  expand  themselves  so  profusely  as  to  pre- 
sent the  same  appearance  as  when  a  casual  snow-storm  at 
the  close  of  autumn  has  loaded  the  trees  while  still  furnished 
with  their  full  complement  of  foliage.  The  seeds  are  known 
to  be  ripe  when  the  berries  assume  a  dark  red  color,  and  if 
not  then  s:athered  will  drop  from  the  trees.  The  planters  in 
Arabia  do  not  pluck  the  fruit,  but  place  cloths  for  its  recep- 
tion beneath  the  trees  which  they  shake,  and  the  ripened  bcr- 
10 


no  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

. ■ — — — ^ 

WEST    INDIES. 


ries  drop  readily.  These  are  afterwards  spread  upon  ruatn 
and  expo?<pd  to  tlie  sun's  rays  until  perfectly  dry,  when  tlu. 
husk  is  broken  with  liii-p;e  hf^avy  rollers  made  either  of  wood 
or  of  stone.  1'he  coffee  thus  cleared  of  its  husk  is  ap;ain 
dried  lhoroui,dily  in  the  sun,  that  it  may  not  be  liable  to  heat 
when  packed  for  shipment. 

"  The  method  emplnyt'd  in  tlie  West  Indies  differs  from  this. 
Neajrocs  are  set  to  gather  such  of  the  i)erries  as  are  sufluient- 
ly  ripe,  and  for  this  purpose  are  provided  each  with  a  canvass 
bao;.  havina  an  iron  rins;  or  hoop  at  its  mouth  to  keep  it  al- 
ways disteiided.  and  this  b;ig  is  slun;,'-  round  the  neck  so  as  to 
leave  both  hands  at  liberty. '  As  often  as  this  b;i<r  is  iilled,  the 
contents  are  transferred  to  a  large  basket  placed  conveniently 
for  the  purpose.  When  the  trees  are  in  full  bearinjr,  an  indus- 
trious man  will  pick  three  bushels  in  a  day.  If  more  are  gath- 
ered, proper  care  can  hardly  be  exercised  in  selectin.if  only 
the  berries  that  are  ripe.  It  is  the  usual  calculation,  that  each 
bushel  of  ripe  berries  will  yield  ten  pounds  w  eiglit  of  merchant- 
able coffee. 

"  In  curing  coffee  it  is  sometinn^^  usual  to  expose  the  l>er- 
ries  to  the  sun's  rays  in  layersf  live  or  six  inches  deep,  on  a 
])latform.  I3y  this  means  the  pulp  ferments  in  a  few  days,  and 
having  thus  thrown  f)ff  a  strong  acidulous  moisture,  dries 
gradually  during  a!)out  three  weeks;  the  husks  are  afterwards 
separated  from  the  seeds  in  a  mill.  Other  planters  remove 
the  pulp  from  the  seeds  as  soon  as  the  berries  are  gathered 
The  pulj)ing  mill  used  for  this  purpose  consists  of  a  horizontal 
fluted  roller,  turned  by  a  crank,  and  acting  against  a  moveable 
breast-board,  so  placed  as  to  prevent  the  jiassage  of  whole 
berries  between  itself  and  the  roller.  The  pulp  is  then  separa- 
ted from  the  seeds  by  washing  tlirm,  and  the  latter  are  spread 
out  in  the  sun  to  dry  tliem.  It  is  then  necessnry  to  remove  the 
membranous  skin  or  parchment,  which  is  ellected  by  nutans 
of  heavy  rollers  running  in  a  tioiigh  wherein  the  seeds  are  put. 
This  mill  is  worked  by  cattl<\  The  seeds  are  afterwards 
winnowed  to  sep:irate  the  chaff,  and  if  any  among  them  ap- 
I>e;ir  to  have  escaped  the  action  of  the  roller,  they  are  again 
passed  through  the  mill." 

"  The  manuf.icture  of  .tinjar  i.;  a  somewhat  complicated 
pif»cess,  re(|uiiing  for  its  successful  performance,  not  only 
souK!  degree  of  chemical  knowli'dge,  but  likewise  a  consider- 
able an)ount  of  practical  experience.  We  must  content  our 
selves  here  with  giving  th.e  raerest  outline  t)f  the  operations, 
referring  the  reader,  who  is  curious  in  such  matters,  to  books 
wherein  the  whole  details  are  given. 

"  When  tli(^  canes  are  fully  ripe,  they  are  cut  close  to  the 
stole,  and  being  then  divided  into  convenient  lengths,  are  ticnl 
np  in  bundles,  and  conveyed  to  the  mill.  This  always  consists 
f>f  three  inm  cylinders,  sometimes  standing  ))erpendicularly 
in  i  line  with  each  other,  and  at  other  times  placed  horizon- 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  Ill 

I 

SUGAR. 

tally,  and  disposed  in  the  form  of  a  triangle,  and  so  adjusted 
that  the  canes,  on  being  passed  twice  between  the  cylinders  of 
either  kind  of  mill,  shall  have  all  their  juice  expressed.  This 
is  collected  in  a  cistern,  and  must  be  immediately  placed  un- 
der process  by  heat,  to  prevent  its  becoming  acid,  an  effect 
which  has  sometimes  commenced  as  early  as  twenty  minutes 
from  the  time  of  its  being  expressed.  A  certain  quantity  of 
lime,  in  powder,  or  of  lime-water,  is  added  at  this  time  to  pro- 
mote the  separation  of  the  feculent  matters  contained  in  the 
juice  ;  and  these  being  as  far  as  possible  removed,  at  a  heat 
just  sufficient  to  cause  the  impurities  to  collect  together  on 
the  surface,  the  cane  liquor  is  then  subjected  to  a  very  rapid 
boiling,  in  order  to  evaporate  the  watery  particles,  and  bring 
the  syrup  to  such  a  consisteucy  that  it  will  granulate  on  cool- 
ing. The  quantity  of  sugar  obtainable  from  a  given  measure 
of  cane-juice,  varies  according  to  the  season,  the  soil,  the  pe- 
riod of  the  year,  and  the  quality  of  the  canes  ;  but  it  may  be 
calculated,  that,  taking  one  state  of  circumstances  with  an- 
other in  these  respects',  every  five  gallons,  imperial  measure, 
of  cane-juice,  will  yield  six  pounds  of  crystallized  sugar,  and 
will  be  obtained  from  about  ofie  hundred  and  ten  well-grown 
canes. 

"  The  fuel  used  for  thus  concentrating  the  juice  is  furnished 
by  the  cane  itself,  which,  after  the  expressing  of  that  juice,  is 
dried  for  the  purpose  by  exposure  to  the  sun. 

"  W  hen  the  sugar  is  sufficiently  cooled  in  shallow  trays,  it  is 
put  into  the  hogsheads  wherein  it  is  shipped  to  Europe.  These 
casks  have  their  bottoms  pierced  with  holes,  and  are  placed 
upright  over  a  large  cistern  into  whicli  the  molasses — which 
is  the  portion  of  saccharine  matter  that  will  not  crystallize — 
drains  away,  leaving  the  raw  sugar  in  the  state  w'herein  we 
see  it  in  our  grocers'  shops ;  the  casks  are  then  filled  up, 
headed  down,  and  shipped. 

"  With  the  planters  in  the  English  colonies,  the  process  of 
sugar  making  mostly  ends  with  the  draining  away  of  the  mo- 
lasses in  the  manner  just  mentioned;  but  inthe  French,  Span- 
ish, and  Portuguese  settlements,  it  is  usual  to  submit  this  raw 
sugar  to  the  farther  process  of  claying.  For  this  purpose  the 
sugar,  as  soon  as  it  is  cool,  is  placed  in  forms  or  moulds,  simi- 
lar to  those  used  in  the  sugar  refineries  in  England,  but  much 
larger;  and  these  being  placed  with  their  small  end  down- 
wards, the  top  of  the  sugar  is  covered  with  clay  moistened  to 
the  consistence  of  thin  paste,  the  water  contained  in  which 
gradually  soaks  through  the  sugar  and  washes  out  a  farther 
quantity  of  molasses,  with  which  it  escapes  through  a  hole  pur- 
posely made  at  the  point  of  the  earthed  mould.  It  is  then 
called  clayed  sugar  :  the  loaves  when  removed  from  the  forms 
are  frequently  divided  into  three  portions,  which,  being  of  dif- 
ferent colors  and  qualities,  arising  from  the  greater  .effect  of 
the  water  in  cleansing  the  upper  portion,  are  pulverized  and 
packed  separately  for  exportation. 


112  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

WEST    INDIES. 

"  Tlie  molasses  whicft  have  drained  from  thesus^ar,  together 
with  all  the  scummincrs  of  the  cojipers,  are  collected,  and,  be- 
ing first  fermented,  are  distilled  for  the  production  of  rum.  The 
proportionate  quantity  of  this  spirit,  as  comiKired  with  tiie 
weight  of  sugar  produced,  varies  considerably  with  the  sea- 
sons<jnd  management.  In  favorable  years,  when  the  cane* 
are  fullj'  ripenetl,  anil  the  quality  of  the  sugar  is  good,  the  pro- 
jiortion  of  molasses  and  scummings  is  comjtaratively  small, 
and  tlu"  manufacture  of  nun  is  coiisetiuentiy  K-sscned  ;  the 
proportion  usually  made  is  reckoned  to  be  from  five  to  six 
gallons  of  proof  spirit  for  every  hundred  weight  of  sugar." 

Amon^  l/ir  fii/il.f  which  deserve  notice  is  that  of  t!ie  lirrad- 
fruit  tree,  which  was  originally  found  in  the  soiitheastein  i)arts 
of  Asia,  and  the  islands  of  the  Pacific.  The  bread-fruit  tree  is 
a  beautiful,  as  well  as  a  useful  tree  ;  the  trunk  rises  to  the 
heiglit  of  about  forty  feet,  and.  in  a  full-grown  tree,  is  from  a 
foot  to  fifteen  inches  in  diameter  ;  the  bark  is  ash-colored,  full 
of  little  chinks,  and  covered  by  small  knobs;  the  inner  bark  is 
fibrous,  and  used  in  the  manufacture  of  a  sort  of  cloth  ;  and 
the  wood  is  smooth,  sitft,  and  of  a  yellow  color.  When  full 
grown,  the  fruit  is  about  nine  inciu-s  long,  iieart-sliaped,  of  a 
greenish  color,  and  marked  with  hexagonal  warts,  formed 
into  facets.  The  pulp  is  white,  i)artly  farinaceous  and  partly 
fibrous  ;  but  when  (juite  ripe,  it  becomes  yellow  anil  juicy. 

In  the  South  Sea  Islands,  this  tree  continues  productive  for 
about  eight  months  in  the  year.  Two  or  three  trees  will  sulTice 
for  a  man's  yearly  support ;  a  store  being  made  into  a  sour 
paste  called  intihc,  wiiich  is  eaten  dr.ring  tlie  unproductive  sea- 
son. When  the  fruit  is  roasted  until  the  outsiiie  is  charred, 
the  pulp  has  a  consistency  not  very  unlike  wheaten  bread  ; 
and  the  taste  is  intermediate  between  that  ol  luead  and  roasted 
chestnuts.  It  is  siiid  to  be  very  nourishing,  ;.ud  is  jjrepared  in 
various  ways. 

Previously  to  the  year  1793,  this  tree  was  not  limnd  in  the 
West  India  Islands.  As  early  as  1787,  the  king  of  Great  Brit- 
ain, at  the  recjuest  of  the  planters,  and  otln-rs  interested  in  the 
West  Indies,  ordered  a  vessel  called  the  "  Ijounty"  to  be  fitted 
up  for  a  voyaire  to  Otaheite,  for  the  purpose  of  shipping  plants. 
Lieutenant  HIigh  was  ajipointed  to  the  command.  In  Novem- 
ber, 17S7,  this  vessel  put  to  sea,  and  after  a  voyage  of  ten 
months,  arrived  at  Otaheite. 

"No  time  was  lost  in  putting  the  instructions  into  execution. 
The  young  shoots  that  sprung  from  the  lateral  roots  of  the 
bread-fruit  trees  were;  taken  up,  with  balls  of  earth,  where  the 
soil  was  moist  ;  and  this  operation  was  continued  till  they 
were  in  possession  of  one  thousand  and  fifteen  live  plants,  se- 
cured in  seven  hundred  ami  seventy-foin-  pots,  thirty-nine  tubs, 
and  twenty-four  boxes.  The  compli-tion  <if  the  cargo  occu- 
pied till  the  :j(l  of  A[)ril.  1789;  and  Dligh  sailed  the  following  day. 

"  Hitherto  there  liad  been  no  ])erils  to  contend  with  but  those 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  113 

BREAD-FRUIT  TREE. 

of  the  sea  ;  but  when  four  and  twenty  days  had  elapsed,  and 
they  were,  of  course,  fiir  from  any  land,  a  new  scene  took  place, 
wliich  frustrated  for  a  tune  the  bounty  of  the  government  and 
the  skill  of  the  commander.  Under  the  cloak  of  fidelity,  a  mu- 
tiny had  been  forming  of  a  very  determined  and  extensive  na- 
ture ;  and  so  well  had' the  mutineers  disguised  their  intentions, 
that  not  one  but  those  who  were  in  the  plot  had  the  slightest 
suspicion  of  it. 

"  The  known  bravery  of  L,ieutenant  Bligh  made  the  muti- 
neers afraid  to  attack  him  awake;  and  so,  on  the  morning  of 
the  2Sth  of  April,  he  was  seized  while  asleep  in  his  bed,  by  a 
band  of  armed  traitors,  and  hurried  upon  deck  in  his  shirt; 
and,  on  coming  there,  he  found  the  master,  the  gunner,  one  of 
the  master's  mates,  and  Nelson  the  botanist,  who  had  been 
with  him  under  Cook,  confined  in  the  fore  hatchway,  and 
guarded  by  sentinels.  The  launch  Vv^as  hoisted  ;  and  such  in- 
divid'uals  as  the  mutineers  did  not  like,  were  ordered  to  quit 
the  ship,  and  forced  if  they  refused  or  hesitated.  Eighteen 
only,  out  of  fortv-six,  remained  ti'ue  to  their  com.mander. 
These,  with  the  Tatter,  were  nov/  sent  adrift  upon  the  wide 
ocean,'in  an  open  boat,  with  only  a  hundred  and  fifty  pounds 
of  bread,  a  few  pieces  of  pork,a  little  wine  and  rum,  a  quad- 
rant and  compass,  and  a  few  other  implements  of  navigation. 
But  they  were  undaunted,  and  they  were  skilful ;  and  though 
they  had  hard  weather  to  contend  with,  they  reached  Tofoa, 
one  of  the  Friendly  Islands.  But  as  the  people  there  were  as 
treacherous,  though  not  quite  so  successful  in  their  treachery, 
as  their  former  sliipmates,  they  again  put  to  sea,  and  stood  for 
New  Holland,  which  they  reached  in  safety  ;  rested  for  a  little, 
and  got  a  supply  of  provisions.  From  New  Holland  they  again 
sailed  in  the  direction  of  the  Eastern  x^rchipelago  ;  and,  after 
sulit-ring  the  greatest  fatigue,  being  exposed  to  the  full  action 
and  vicissitudes  of  the  elements,  and  forced  for  some  time  to 
-bear  famine,  they  reached  the  Dutch  settlement  of  Coupang, 
in  the  island  of  Timor,  without  tlie  loss  of  one  individual  by 
disease;  though  they  had  traversed  at  least  five  thousand 
miles  of  sea.  Nay,  so  ardent  was  Bligh  as  a  seaman,  that, 
amid  all  those  perils,  he  was  occupied  in  making  some  very 
valuable  observations. 

•  "  The  Dut-ch  Governor  of  Coupang  showed  them  every  at- 
tention; and,  from  the  care  that  v/as  taken  of  them,  twelve 
were  enabled  to  return  to  England.  Though  the  adventure 
had  failed,  everybody  was  disposed  to  bestow  all  praise  on 
the  adventurer  ;  and  he  was  promoted  to  the  rank  of  Captain, 
and  appointed  to  the  command  of  his  Majesty's  ship  Provi- 
dence, in  order  to  repeat  the  voyage. 

"The  Providence,  with  the  Assistant,  a  small  ship  in  com- 
pany, sailed  on  the  3d  of  August,  1791.     His  instructions  were 
to  procure  the  bread-fruit  trees  for  the  West  Indies,  and,  on  his 
return,  to  examine  the  passage  between  the  north  of  New 
10* 


114  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 


WEST  INDIE£i. 


Holland  and  New  Guinea— which,  in  his  former  voyage  in  the 
Bounty,  he  had  been  the  first  to  nuvi<^ate. 

"  On  the  !ith  of  April,  1792,  they  reached  Otaheite,  and,  by 
the  17th  of  July,  they  were  ready  to  leave  the  island,  having  on 
board  twelve  hundred  and  eighty-one  tubs  and  pots  of  plants, 
all  in  the  finest  condition.  There  was  no  mutiny  on  this  voy- 
age; but  the  passage  between  New  Holland  and  New  Guinea 
was  dangerous  ;  and  it  was  the  2d  of  October  before  the  cap- 
tain reached  his  old  friends  at  Coupang.  He  remained  there 
for  a  week,  replacing  with  plants  from  that  island  those  that 
had  died  on  the  voyage  ;  and  then  he  came  to  the  Atlantic  by 
the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  which  he  contrived  to  pass  so  closely 
as  never  to  have  a  lower  temperature  than  sixty-one  degrees 
of  Fahrenheit. 

"  On  the  23d  of  January,  1793,  he  anchored  at  St.  Vincent, 
■where  he  left,  with  Dr.  Anderson,  the  superintendent  of  the 
Botanical  garden,  three  hundred  and  thirty-three  bread-fruit 
trees,  and  two  hundred  and  eleven  fruit  tiees  of  pther  kinds, 
receiving  at  the  same  time  nearly  live  Iiundred  tropical  plants 
for  the  Botanical  garden  at  Kew.  From  St.  Vincent,  Captain 
Bligh  sailed  for  Jamaica,  where  he  left  three  hundred  ami  for- 
ty-seven bread-fruits,  and  two  hundred  and  seventy-six  others, 
which  were  a  selection  of  all  the  finest  Iriiits  of  the  east.  Some 
of  the  plants  were  also  left  on  theisland  of  Grand  Caman  ;  and 
the  ships  finally  came  to  the  Downs  on  the  2d  of  August,  1793. 

"But,  after  all  the  peril,  hardship,  and  expense  thus  incur- 
red, the  bread-fruit  tree  has  not,  hitherto,  at  least,  answered 
the  expectations  that  were  entertained.  The  Uanaiia  is  more 
easily  and  cheaply  cultivated,  comes  into  bearing  mucli  sooa- 
er  after  being  planted,  bears  more  abundantly,  and  is  better 
relished  by  the  negroes.  The  mode  «)f  propagating  the  bread- 
fruit is  not,  indeed,  difficult;  for  the  planter  has  only  to  lay 
bare  one  of  the  roots,  and  mound  it  with  a  spade,  and  in  a 
short  space  a  shoot  conies  up,  which  is  soon  fit  for  removal. 

"  Europeans  are  nuich  fonder  of  the  bread-fruit  than  ne- 
groes. They  consider  it  as  a  sort  of  daintv,  and  use  it  either 
a.s  bread  or  puddings.  \\  hvn  roa.sted  in  the  oven,  the  taste 
of  it  resembles  that  of  a  potato,  but  it  is  not  so  mealy  as  a 
good  one."* 

Wf  shall  here  bifl  adieu,  for  the  present,  to  North  America, 
and  with  it  to  tin-  land  f)f  our  birth  ;  not  finally,  we  trust,  for  in 
respect  to  our  country— our  own  country— the  land  of  our 
sires— the  home  of  our  mothers— wiruii  ofus  says  not  with  the 
poet— 

WlnTf'cr  I  rn.'iin,  whntrvrr  rrnlms  to  fvo, 
iMy  htari  iiiiiruvtll'd  foiiiJly  luriis  to  ilac  7 

Yes,  fellow  travellers,  we  have  still  a  fearful  distance  befl)re 
us  ;  but  we  will  again  refiMii  to  the  land  of  our  birth,  having 
-:ath»'r<>d  instruction  by  what  we  Ii.tvc  seen,  and  contentment 
y  what  we  have  felt. 

•  Lib.  of  Jwircrtaiiung  Knowledge. 


E 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  •  115 

SOUTH  AMERICA. 

SECTION  II.— SOUTH  AMERICA. 

-    1.  COLOMBIA. 

On  entering  South  America,  the  first  country  which  claims 
our  notice  is  the  Republic  of  Colowhict.  This  Republic  is  of 
recent  origin.  While  under  the  Spanish  dominion,  it  compre- 
hended the  States — Vice  Royalty  of  New  Grenada^  The  Cap- 
fain  Generalship)  of  Caracas,  and  the  Presidency  of  Qnito. 
The  liberation  ofColombia  was. effected  in  1813^  by  the  celebrar 
ted  Simon  Bolivar,  who  having  raised  1000  men,  fought  several 
successful  battles  with  the  royalists,  and  at  length  entered,  as 
a  conqueror,  the  city  of  Caracas,  on  the  4th  of  August,  of  the 
above  year.  In  1819,  the  several  territories  were  created  into 
a  Republic,  and  a  popular  representative  government  was  es- 
tablished. Their  constitution  resembles  that  of  the  United 
States. 

This  Republic  i^  bounded  north  by  the-Carribean  sea;  east 
by  Guiana  and  Brazil;  south  by  Brazil  and  Peru,  and  west  by 
the  Pacific  Ocean  ;  and  contains  probably  about  1,000,000  of 
square  miles.  The  population  of  this  vast  country,  which  is 
more  than  seven  times  the  extent  of  the  British  Isles,  is  about 
twenty-seven  to  a  square  league,  or  two  millions  seven  hundred 
thousand.*  Of  these,  400,000  only  are  whites  ;  640,000  are 
Mestizoes  ;  650,000  Indians  ;  800,000  mulattoes  and  free  blacks, 
and  150,000  slav-es.  The  Colombians  in  their,  manners  and 
customs  strongly  resemble  other  South  American  nations. 
They  adopt  the  Spanish  fashions,  and  use  the  Spanish  lan- 
guage. Without  attempting  the  difficult  task  of  giving  general 
characteristics,  where  considerable  variety  exists,  we  will  pre- 
sent our  fellow  travellers  with  an  account  of  the  inhabitants  of 
several  of  the  principal  towns,  chiefly  drawn  from  the  writings 
of  the  celebrated  Humboldt.     W^e  begin  with 

Cumana. — This  town  is  situated  in  the  northern  part  of  Co- 
lombia, near  the  moiitli  of  the  Gulf  of  Cariaco,  about  a  mile 
from  the  Carribean  sea,  on  an  arid  sandy  plain.  According 
to  Humboldt,  "the  inhabitants  of  Cumana  are  very  polite  ;  it 
may  be  said  that  they  are  excessively  so.  There  is  not  so 
much  luxury  among  them  as  at  Caracas  ;  their  houses,  how- 
ever, are  tolerably  well  furnished.  They  are  very  abstemious. 
Those  dinners  and  festivals,  which  form  one  of  the  charms  of 
society  in  Europe,  and  which,  in  the  British  and  French  colo- 
nies, are  repeated  almost  everyday,  from  the  first  of  January 

*  In  1800,  Humboldt  estimated  the  inhabitants  in  Mexico  at  forty-nine  to 
the  square  leaa;ue  ;  in  Guatemala,  forty-six  ;  in  Peru,  thirty- three ;  in  Buenos 
Ayres,  eight ;  in  all  Spanish  America,  twenty-eight. 


116  »  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

SOUTH  AMERICA. 

to  tlio  last  of  Doconibor,  are  ijjiknnwn  to  the  inhabitants  of 
Ciiniaiia,  and  the  utiicr  jirovincos  of  \\'ntv.UL"la. 

'■  Tliis  town  lias  no  public  estabiishnifnt  for  the  education  of 
youth  ;  it  is,  therefore,  surprising  to  find  any  knowlediro  among 
its  inhiubitants ;  yet.  there  is  some  information  disseniinated 
anions;  many  of  the  Creoles  of  ( "iimana.  They  are  but  seldom 
.sent  to  Euiope  lor  their  education;  the  most  wealthy  receive 
it  at  Caracas,  and  the  greater  number  under  schoolmasters, 
from  whom  they  learn  tne  Spanish  .trriininiar,  arithmetic,  the 
first  elements  of  geometiy,  drawinir,  a  little  Latin,  and  nuisic. 
I  have  remarked  considerat)le  talent,  ap|)lication,  and  good 
conduct  in  tiieir  youth,  and  less  vivacity  and  vanity  lh;Mi 
among  those  of  Caracas.  Not  being  so  rich  as  the  latter,  the 
Cumanese  are  brought  up  with  jxinciples  ol" economy  and  in- 
dustr}';  there  are  no  idlers  among  them;  in  general,  they  are 
inclined  to  business.  Some  apply  themselveis  to  Uie  mechani- 
cal aits;  others,  to  commerce.  The}'  have  also  a  great  |iar- 
tiality  for  navigation  and  trading  with  the  neighboring  cohiuies 
of  other  nations;  and  by  their  activit)'  and  prudence,  they 
make  considerable  pr^ifits  witli  small  capitals.  Their  articles 
of  ex|)ortation  are  cattle,  smoked  meat,  and  salted  fish,  which 
commodities  they  have  in  great  abundance.  Twt)  pounds  of 
beef  are  sold  at  Cumana  for  two  pence  halfpenny,  and  twenty- 
two  pounds  of  salt  meat  at  from  3s.  4d.,  to  ds.  2d.  Fish  is  never 
weighed  there:  some  days  tliere  is  such  a  quantity  caught  by 
the  fishermen,  that  they  give  ten,  twelve,  or  fifteen  pounds 
weight  for  5d.  The  poor  go  to  the  seaside  with  maize,  cakes, 
and  <'ggs,  and  barter  them  for  lish.  Egus  are  the  small  change 
in  Cumana,  Caracas,  and  other  provinces  of  Venezuela,  where 
ctfppercoiu  is  unknown,  the  smallest  piece  in  circulation  being 
a  vicc/io  i-('(/l,  in  silver,  worth  2{r  d.  II"one  uoes  into  a  .siiopto 
buy  something  worth  less  than  2]d.,  Uivy  give  as  change  two 
or  three  eggs;  for  a  dozen  of  eggs  there,  are  worth  only  a 
me<Uo  real.  This  is  also  the  price  of  a  measure  of  excellent 
milk,  about  a  quai't.  A  sheep  is  sold  for  a  dollar,  a  fine  tur- 
key for  2iid.  or  L^s.,  a  fowl  for  5d.,  a  fiit  capon  7:^d.  t(t  lOd.,  a 
duck  the  same  price.  Game  and  wild  fowl  are  frequently  sold 
cheaper  than  butchers'  meat;  and  all  those  arti<  Its  are  still 
clieajier  in  the  small  towns  in  the  interior.  1  lived  at  tJie  best, 
and  dearest  hotels  in  Cumana,  at  a  dollar  per  day,  including 
my  son  and  servant.  They  gave  us  for  bicakfa.st,  cold  meats, 
fish,  cho(H>late,  cotTee,  tea,  and  Sjianish  wine;  an  excellent 
dinner,  with  Spanish  and  French  wines,  cofl'ee,  and  liqueurs; 
in  the  evening,  ciiocolate.  I  was  well  jotiged  and  lighted.  I 
should  have  expended  but  half  that  sum,  if  i  had  gone  to  board 
and  lodge  in  a  family.  In  short,  then'  is  not  a  country  in  the 
world,  where  one  may  live  cheaper  than  in  the  province  of 
Cumana.  An  excr-llent  dinner  may  be  had  there  for  Ibd.,  not 
including  wine,  which  floes  not  cost  more  than  5d.  per  boitle, 
to  those  who  buy  a  quantity  of  it.     Poor  people  drinl^  punch, 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  117 

CARACAS. 

which  is  at  a  very  low  rate,  for  it  does  not  cost  above  Id.  per 
quart. 

The  retail  trade  of  Cumana  is  almost  entirely  in  the  hands 
of  the  Catalans,  Biscayans,  and  Canarians.  These  men  are 
chietly  sailors,  who  have  l^egun  to  0))en  shops  with  a  few  dol- 
lars, and  who,  in  a  few  years,  acquire  fortunes  by  their  frugal- 
ity and  industry.  If  a  man  of  that  country  lands  without  a 
farthing,  tlie  lirst  Catalan  he  meets  takes  him  to  his  house, 
gives  lilm  work,  or  recommends  him  to  some  of  his  country- 
men. There  are  many  ciiuntries  in  which  one  brother  would 
not  do  for  another,  that  which  a  Catalan  is  always  inclined  to 
do  for  his  countryman.  It  was  the  Catalans  who  taught  tlie 
inhabitants  to  derive  advantage  from  various  local  productions; 
for  instance,  from  cocoa-nuts  they  make  oil,  an  emulsion  which 
is  substituted  for  that  of  almonds,  and  very  good  orgeat.  They 
make  excellent  cables  of  the  bark  of  the  mahet^  and  twine  and 
colds  of  tl.e  aloe. 

All  the  houses  of  Cumana  are  low  and  slightly  built,  the  fre- 
quent earthquakes  to  which  the  town  is  subject,  compelling  the 
inhabitants  to  sacrifice  architectural  beauty  to  personal  secu- 
rity. The  violent  shocks  felt  in  Dec.  1797,  threw  down  almost 
ail  the  edifices  of  stone,  and  rendered  uninhabitable  those 
which  were  left  standing.  No  steeple  or  dome  attracts  frora 
afar  the  eye  of  the  traveller,  but  only  a  few  trunks  of  tamarind, 
cocoa,  and  date-trees,  rise  above  the  Hat  roofs  of  the  houses. 

Caracas. — This  city  is  situated  at  the  elevation  of  nearly 
3,000  feet  above  the  sea,  at  the  entrance  of  the  plain  of  Chacao, 
about  eigiit  miles  from  the  shore.  In  1S12,  the  population  was 
50,000,  vvl.en  the  great  earthquake  took  place,  which  buried 
12,000  of  the  inhabitants  in  its  ruins.  Subsequent  political 
commotions  reduced  the  number  to  less  than  20,000.  The 
houses  of  Caracas,  says  a  recent  traveller,  once  so  rich  in  the 
costliness  of  tlieir  furniture  and  decorations,  can  now  barely 
boast  of  the  commonest  articles  of  convenience  ;  and  it  is  with 
the  utmost  difficulty  that  a  table,  chair,  or  bedstead,  can  at 
present  be  procured.  That  part  v/hich  is  nearest  the  mountain, 
presents  a  continued  mass  of  ruins.  For  the  full  space  of  a 
mile,  the  streets  are  overgrown  with  weeds,  and  entirely  unin- 
habited. 

The  city  has,  at  length,  in  a  measure  recovered  from  its  for- 
mer ruin,  and  in  the  southern  part  few  traces  of  the  calamity 
are  seen. 

The  inhabitants  of  Caracas  generally,  are  pronounced  by 
Mr.  Semple  superior  in  quickness  of  perception,  activity  and 
intelligence,  to  the  inhabitants  of  most  other  towns  in  the  prov- 
ince. But,  he  adds,  the  great  want  of  a  solid  education,  and 
the  blind  subjection  to  an'ignorant  priesthood,  render  all  these 
natural  advantages  of  small  avail.  That  high  Spanish  sense 
of  honor,  which  reigns  in  some  breasts,  is,  in  too  many  others, 
supplanted  by  a  mere  blustering  appearance,  which  ends  only 


118  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

COLOMBIA. 

in  fal.scliood  and  dtceit.  The  ironu'n  this  tiavollor  describes 
as,  11(1011  tlip  whdie.  haiidsnme,  sprifjiitly,  and  ))leasinQ;.  They 
are  uniformly  kind  and  affable  in  their  manners;  and  what- 
ever faults  an  En^iislinian  may  fretjiiently  oliserve  in  their  do- 
mestic conduct,  these  are  not  more  tlian  may  hr  traced  in  tlie 
manners  of  old  Spain.  In  tiiem,  tiie  Spanish  character  appears, 
perhajis,  with  less  alteration  than  amoni!;lhe  men.  M.  Depons 
paints  them  in  still  more  vivid  colors,  styling  them  mild,  ten- 
der, and  seductive;  with  j(>t  black  hair,  alabaster  skins,  eyes 
large,  and  linely  shaped,  and  carnation  lips  ;  they  are  |:;eneral- 
ly  below  the  middle  size.  Their  attire,  he  says,  is  rather  ele- 
gant. They  feel  a  kind  of  vanity  on  beinp;  taken  for  French, 
but,  whatever  resemblance  there  may  be  in  tlie  dres.s,  tluMe  is 
too  little  in  the  gait,  the  step,  and  too  little  grace,  to  permit  the 
illusion  to  subsist.  Their  education  is  limited  to  learning  a 
number  of  prayers,  reading  badly,  spelling  worse,  and  playing 
b)'  rote  a  few  tunes  on  the  guitar  and  piano-foite.  Their 
principal  morning  occupation  is  going  to.  mass,  and  a  great 
portion  of  the  rest  of  the  day  they  pass  at  their  windows.  In 
spile,  however,  of  their  defective  education,  adds  the  French 
traveller,  the  women  of  Caracas  know  how  to  unite  social 
manneis  with  decent  behavior,  and  the  art  of  coquetry  with 
the  modesty  of  their  sex.  In  this  city,  as  in  most  others,  there 
is  a  degraded  and  abandoned  class.  More  than  two  hundred 
unfortunates  pass  the  day  covered  with  rags,  in  the  recesses 
of  ruins,  and  never  go  out  but  at  night,  to  draw  from  vice  the 
gross  subsistence  of  the  morrow.  Their  dress  is  a  white  pet- 
ticoat and  veil,  (the  dress  of  slaves,)  all  respectable  females 
wearing  black,  with  a  paste-board  hat  covered  with  silk,  to 
which  is  attached  a  tuft  of  tinsel,  and  artificial  tlowers. 

The  class  of  domestic  slaves  in  Caracas,  says  M.  Depons,  is 
considerat)le.  A  man  thinks  himself  rich,  only  in  proportion 
to  the  number  of  slaves  in  his  lunise.  It  is  necessary  that  he 
f^hould  have  about  him  foiu"  times  a.s  many  servants  as  their 
work  re(juii«'s;  without  which  a  littleness  is  manifested,  that 
announces  a  poverty,  which  all  hide  as  well  as  they  can.  A 
white  woman  of  moderate  fortune,  goes  to  mass  on  church 
days,  with  two  female  negroes  or  mulalloes  in  her  suite,  though 
she  does  not  possess  in  other  property  an  ciiuivalent  capital. 
Those  who  are  notoriously  rich  are  followed  by  four  or  (ivp 
servant  women,  and  there  remain  as  many  more  for  each 
while  of  the  same  liou.se  who  goc^s  to  another  church.  There 
are  familiis  in  Caracas  with  twelve  and  iilleeii  female  .servants, 
exclusive  of  the  footmen  in  the  service  of  the  men. 

It  is  probable  that  there  is  not  in  tlic  whole  West  Indies  a 
city  where  there  are  so  many  freed  jiersons,  or  descendants 
frt)m  them,  in  |)ro]iortion  to  the  other  classes,  as  in  (Wiracas. 

They  there  exercise  all  those  handicrafts,  that  the  whites 
despise.  Every  one  wlio  is  a  carpenter,  joiner,  cabinet-maker, 
ma.son,  blacksmith,  locksmith,  tailor,  shoemaker,  goldsmith, 
Ac,  is,  or  was,  a  freeman.     They  excel  in  none  of  these  trades, 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  119 

TRADES  PEOPLE. FESTIVALS. 

because  learning  them  mechanically,  they  constantly  ollend 
against  their  principles.  Besides,  indolence,  which  is  in  their 
nature,  extinguishes  in  them  that  emulation  to  which  the  arts 
owe  all  their  progress.  Yet,  the  carpenter's  and  mason's 
work  is  tolerably  regular  ;  but  cabinet-making  is  still  in  its  in- 
fancy. All  these  artisans,  depressed  by  an  indiSerence  that 
seems  more  peculiar  to  their  race,  but  generally  attaches  to 
the  soil  they  inhabit,  and  the  nation  with  which  they  are  asso- 
ciated, work  but  very  little ;  and  what  appears  in  some  de- 
gree contradictory,  is,  that  they  work  much  cheaper  than  Eu- 
ropean artificers.  They  exist  but  by  means  of  the  greatest 
sobriety,  and  in  the  midst  of  all  sorts  of  privations,  in  gene- 
ral, overloaded  with  children,  they  live  heaped  together  in 
miserable  shells,  where  they  have  for  their  whole  bed  iiothing 
but  an  ox-hide,  and  for  sustenance,  only  the  provisions  of  the 
country.     The  exceptions  are  very  rare. 

In  this  state  of  poverty,  no  kind  of  work  can  be  required, 
but  they  instantly  demand  an  advance.  The  smith  never  has 
either  iron  or  coal.  The  carpenter  never  has  wood — even  for 
a  table.  They  must  have  mone^^  to  buy  some.  All  have  al- 
waj^s  the  wants  of  a  family,  which  he  who  orders  their  work, 
must  satisfy.  Thus  you  begin  by  tying  yourself  to  the  work- 
man you  employ,  and  making  yourself  dependant  upon  him. 
It  is  no  longer  possible  to  threaten  his  sloth  by  applying  to  an- 
other, with  whom,  besid^es.  the  very  same  inconvenience  would 
take  place.  The  only  resource,  then,  is  that  of  pressing  and 
superintending  the  work  ;  and,  in  spite  of  all  these  attentions, 
there  are  always  indispositions,  journeys,  festivals,  which  ex- 
haust the  patience  of  the  most  phlegmatic.  One  is  then  very 
badly,  or,  assurc^'v,  very  slowly  served. 

The  festirals  of  tne  Romish  calendar  are  so  multiplied  at  Ca- 
racas, that  there  are  very  few  days  in  the  year,  in  which  some 
saint  or  virgin  does  not  claim  a  turn  in  the  devotional  celebra- 
tionsofthe  natives.  The  most  brilliant  acts  of  these  festivals  are 
the  processions,  which  always  take  place  in  the  afternoon. 
The  saint,  as  large  as  life,  is  richly  dressed.  He  is  carried  on 
a  table,  very  handsomely  decorated,  and  followed  or  preceded 
by  some  other  saint  of  the  same  church,  less  sumptuously 
adorned.  A  number  of  flags  and  crosses  open  the  procession. 
The  men  walk  two  abreast.  Each  of  the  principal  persons 
has  in  his  hand  a  wax  taper;  then  come  the  music,  the  clergy, 
the  civil  authorities,  and  lastly  the  women,  surrounded  with  a 
barrier  of  bayonets.  The  train  is  always  very  numerous. 
The  frames  of  all  the  windows  in  the  streets,  through  which  the 
procession  moves,  are  ornamented  with  hangings  floating  in 
ine  r.ir,  which  give  to  the  whole  quarter  an  air  of  festivity  that 
exhilarates.  The  windows  themselves  are  adorned  with 
women,  who  crowd  to  them  from  all  parts  of  the  city  to  enjoy 
this  exhibition.  Fire-works,  concerts,  and  dances,  conclude, 
as  elsewhere,  these  pious  solemnities. 


120  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

COLOMBIA. 

TItp  principal  public  amusements  of  Caracas,  besides  the  tlie- 
atre,  are,  three  tennis-courts,  a  cock  pit,  and  a  few  billiard-ta- 
bles;  the  latter  are  not  imich  frequented.  Ganibiinjr,  the  uni- 
versal pussion  of  the  h^paniards,  is  under  some  slight  check 
from  the  police  ;  rej^uialions  havinii  been  made  in  1800  for 
suppressing  the  practice.  But  for  these  three  or  four  years, 
says  M.  Ut  pons,  it  has  been  only  the  poor  ^\ho  have  been 
watched,  imprisoned,  and  lined  by  the  jjolice  for  gaming. 
Those  above  the  conmion  rank  have  a  tacit  permission  to  ruin 
each  other, at  play,  without  the  n)aji;istrate's  taking  ofience  at 
it.  The  Spaniard  loves  only  the  play  that  ruins,  not  the  play 
which  amuses. — In  Eurf)pe.  remarks;  M.  Humboldt,  where  na- 
tions decide'their  qnairels  in  tlie  jilains,  we  climb  the  moun- 
tains in  search  of  solitude  and  liberty.  In  the  I\ew  World,  Uie 
Cordilleras  are  inhabited  to  the  height  of  12,000  feet;  and 
thither  men  carry  with  them  their  political  dissensions  and 
tiieir  litde  and  hateful  passions.  Gi'.ming  houses  are  estab- 
lished on  the  ridge  of  the  Andes,  wherever  the  discovery  of 
mines  lias  led  to  tiie  foundation  of  towns  ;  and  in  those  vast 
solitudes,  almost  above  the  regions  of  the  clouds,  in  the  mid.st 
of  objects  fitted  to  elevate  the  tliouglits,  the  news  of  a  tlecora- 
tion  or  a  title  refused  by  the  court,  often  disturbs  the  happiness 
of  families 

The  nimuiu  Ca/holic  reiitrinn  prevails  th.roughout  all  the 
Spanish  settlements  in  South  America,  and  devout  homage  is 
^"^id  to  the  court  of  Rome.  Hence  the  gre:it  mass  of  the  peo- 
ple are  kci.t  in  profound  igiun-ance  of  all  other  religious  sys- 
tems, and  their  ignorance  and  credulity  is  taken  advantage  of 
bj'  an  artful  priesthood.  Iri  nothing  is  this  more  appaicnt  than 
in  the  number  of /.'/'//.f.  which,  under  the  old  system  of  govern- 
ment, were  annually  sold,  and  which,  it  is  believed,  continue  to 
be  sold  at  the  pr(^senl  day.  These  bulls  were  originally  de- 
signed for  those  S|)aniards  who  engaged  in  the  wars  against 
t^le  inlidejs.  Time,  however,  which  alters  or  perf(;cts  every 
tiling,  lias  caused  th.e  popes  to  give  to  these  bulls  virtues  which 
t^iey  did  not  possess.  At  this  day,  four  kinds  of  bulls  are  ac- 
knowledged, of  which  we  shall  take  notice  of  but  one — The 
bull  for  the  dead. 

This  is  a  species  of  ticket  for  admission  into  Paradise.  It 
enables  one  to  cl;>ar  the  devouring  llames  of  purgfalory,  and 
conducts  directly  to  the  al^odes  of  the  Messed.  But  one  of 
these  bulls  serves  for  a  soul.  Therefore,  the  in.stant  a  Spaniard 
expires,  his  relations  send  to  the  treasury  to  buy  a  bull  flirthe 
dead,  f»n  which  is  written  tlie  name  of  the  deceased.  AVhen 
the  family  of  the  departed  is  so  poor  as  to  lie  im.ihle  to  pay  for 
the  bull,  that  is  to  ."-ay,  wlien  they  are  reduced  to  tlie  most  ab- 
ject mifcry,  two  or  three  of  it^  members  detach  themselves  and 
po  begcing  Ihrouirh  tlie  streets  to  obtain  the  means  f)f  making 
the  pm  ihase.  If  their  /.eal  is  not  crowned  with  success,  they 
shed  tears  and  utter  shrieks  of  lamentation,  expressive  less  of 


UNIVERSAL  TTIAVELLER.  121 

CHOCOLATE. 

regret  for  the  death  of  their  relation,  than  of  pain  for  their  in- 
ability to  furnish  his  soul  with  this  essential  passport.*  The 
virtue  of  this  bull  is  not  confined  to  dispensing  with  the  obliga- 
tion of  going. into  purgatory,  but  extends  to  extricating  the  soul, 
which,  like  the  asbestos,  is  whitening  in  its  flames.  It  has  the 
faculty  even  to  designate  the  spirit  it  is  wished  to  liberate.  It 
is  enough  to  write  upon  the  bull  the  name  of  the  person  it  ani- 
mated in  this  lower  world,  and  that  very  moment  the  gates  of 
paradise  are  opened  for  him.  One  bull  must  always  be  taken 
for  each  soul ;  they  may,  however,  take  as  many  as  they 
please,  provided  they  do  but  pay. 

The  Cacao  or  Chocolate  Treeis  cultivated  with  great  care  in 
many  of  the  settlements  of  Spanish  America,  and  particularly 
in  Mexico,  on  account  of  its  furnishing  a  useful  and  important 
beverage  commonly  known  by  the  name  of  chocolate.  Great 
attention  is  paid  also  to  the  cultivation  of  this  tree  near  Caracas 
and  other  parts  of  Colombia.  The  provinces  of  Venezuela 
are  supposed  by  Humboldt  to  furnish  nearly  two  thirds  of  the 
chocolate  that  is  consumed  in  the  soulhern  and  western  parts 
of  Europe.  This  writer  estimates  the  total  value  of  the  ex- 
ports of  cacao  at  nearlj^  two  millions  sterling. 

"  The  cacao-tree  seldom  rises  above  the  height  of  twenty 
feet;  its  leaves  are  large,  oblong,  and  pointed.  The  flowers, 
which  are  small,  and  of  a  pale  red  color,  spring  from  the  large 
branches  ;  they  are  succeeded  by  oval  pointed  pods,  that  con- 
tain a  white  pithy  substance,  v.diich  is  sweet,  but  disagreeable, 
and  surrounding  numerous  seeds:  these  are  the  cacao  of 
commerce.  These  seeds  are  oVal-formed,  and  alx)ut  as  large 
as  a  moderate  sized  almond-kernel,  but  not  so  slender ;  they 
are  internally  of  a  very  dark  brown  color,  approaching  to 
black,  and  are  covered  with  a  thin  skin  or  husk,  of  a  light  red- 
dish brown  color.  The  nuts  are  very  numerous,  but  vary  in 
this  respect,  some  pods  containing  as  many  os  a  hundred, 
while  others  do  not  jdeld  more  than  tv^'enty  seeds  :  the}?-  are  of 
a  very  oily  nature. 

*  I  have  more  than  once,  says  Tvl.  Lavaysse,  heard  the  poor  in  this  country 
lament,  and  utter  the  most  fri:,'ht!'ul  shrieks,  at  the  death  of  their  relations. 
Tlie  gnef  for  then'  loss  was  tntlm,:?,  in  comparison  svith  tnat  which  they  felt 
from  knowms  that  they  were  in  purgatory  for  want  of  this  triflin.s;  sum  to  de- 
hver  them.  They  run  ubjut  in  every  direction,  beiigin^  alms  with  tears,  in 
the  hope  of  procuring  as  mucli  money  as  may  enable  them  to  buy  bulls,  for 
releasing  the  souls  of  their  relations  from  purgatory.  I  have  more  than  once 
had  the  plcp.sure  of  calming  their  grief,  relieving  the  soul  from  that  state,  con- 
tributing to  the  comforts  of  a  Spanish  priest,  and  attracting  to  myself  a  thou- 
sand benedictions,  for  a  quarter  of  a  dollar.  Yet,  let  it  not  be  supposed  that 
t!)e«e  bulls  and  indulgences  supersede  the  sajdng  of  masses  for  the  dead.  In 
all  the  churches  of  this  country,  there  are  pictures  representing  heaven  and 
purgatory.  In  a  corner  of  the' picture,  is  .a  priest 'saymg  mass  ;  at  the  side, 
ere  people  giving  money  for  the  ceieoration  of  mnsa,  and  souls  startin^g  out  of 
purgatory,  when  masses  have  been  said  for  them.  They  are  received  by  the 
archangel,  St.  Michael,  v.-ho  is  depicted  holding  a  pair  of  scales  in  his  hand, 
one  of  which  is  full  of  the  money  for  the  masses,  and  appears  to  siiik,  while 
the  red  liot  souls,  like  broiled  lobsters,  throw  ihemsslves  into  the  other  scale, . 
froia  which  they  fly  to  heaven. 
11 


122  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 


COLO.MniA. 


"The  trees  are  raised  from  seed,  which  is  sown  under  the 
shade  of  the  coral  tree,  or  tlie  banana,  and  thoj'  do  not  come 
into  bearing;  until  six  or  seven  years  old.  Tiieir  cultivation 
does  not  call  for  any  fjreat  application  of  labor ;  and  when 
the  trees  are  once  in  a  |)roductive  state,  they  require  but  little 
attention  beyond  that  necessary  for  merely  collecting  the  pro- 
duce. 

"  Cacao  ip  principally  used  after  having  been  made  into  cakes, 
to  which  the  name  of  chocolate  is  given.  The  method  ancient- 
ly employed  by  the  Ijidians  in  makinc;  these  cakes,  was  sim- 
l)ly  to  roast  the  seeds  in  earthen  jiots,  and  after  clearinir  them 
from  the  husks,  which  by  reason  of  the  heat  eujployed  could 
be  easily  removed,  the  naked  seeds  were  bruised  between  two 
stones,  and  made  up  with  the  hands  into  cakes.  The  process 
at  present  used  by  Europeans  does  not  differ  p;ie;itly  from 
that  just  described  ;  more  care  is  taken  in  griiuiiuii;  tlie  seeds 
after  they  are  roasted,  so  as  to  convert  them  into  a  paste  which 
is  perfectly  smooth,  and  .some  flavoring  ingredients  are  added, 
according  to  the  taste  of  the  people  who  are  to  consume  the 
chocolate.  Cloves  and  cinnamon  are  much  used  for  this  pur- 
pose by  the  Spaniards  ;  other  aiomatics,  and  even  perfumes, 
such  as  musk  and  ambergris,  have  sometimes  been  added  ; 
but  the  principal  flavoring  ingredient  used  with  cacao  is  viinil- 
la,  a  plant  which  produces  a  long  flaltish  pod,  the  seeds  of 
which  have  an  aromatic  taste,  and  a  fragrant  smell,  like  that 
of  some  of  the  finir  balsams  heightened  with  musk.  The  inti- 
mate mixture  of  tiiese  substances  having  been  effected,  the 
whole  is  put,  while  yet  hot,  into  tin  moulds,  where  it  hardens 
in  cooling,  and  in  {his  form,  if  preserved  Horn  the  air,  it  will 
keep  good  for  a  considerable  time.  Chocolate  is  not  very 
inuch  consumed  in  Enghmd;  it  is  in  greater  est<M-m  in  France; 
it  forms  tlie  ordinary  breakfast  in  Spain  ;  and  in  Mexico,  ac- 
cording to  Humboldt,  it  is  not  considered  an  object  of  luxury, 
but  rather  of  j)rin>'^  nece.>si;y." 

Cow  I'ree  or  Milk  Tree. — The  provision  of  Providence  for 
the  wants  of  man  are  discoverable  in  every  counlsy  on  earth, 
and  places  are  often  rendered  habitable,  by  some  ])ecnliar  pro- 
vision, v.ithoiit  which  human  existence  at  least  would  be  im- 
possible. Although  tills  is  not  true  to  the  exter.t  of  the  fore- 
going remark  in  respect  to  the  provinces  of  Venezuela,  v.here 
the  milk  tree  i.;  founci.  yet  '.lie  rensarks  of  Humboldt  respecting 
it^  situation  and  appearance  will  serve  fo  show  by  what  means 
awd  conti'ivances  a  beneficent  Providence  can  adiuinister  to 
the  necessities  of  the  cre.itures  (d'liis  power. 

Oil  the  barren  flank  of  a  rock,  says  Humboldt,  grow.T  a  tree 
with  dry  and  leather-like  leaves;  its  large  woody  ro-its  can 
scarcely  penetrate  into  t!ie  stony  soil.  For  several  months 
of  thi-  3'ear,  not  a  single  shower  moistens  its  foliage.  Its 
branches  appear  dead  and  dried  ;  yet,  when  the  trunk  is 
piercca,  there  flows  from  it  a  sweet  and  nourisliing  milk.    Iti» 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  123 

BOGOTA. 

at  sunrise  that  this  vegetable  fountain  is  most  abundant.  The 
blacks  and  the  natives  are  then  to  be  seen  hastening  from  all 
quarters,  furnished  with  large  bowls  to  receive  the  milk,  which 
grows  yellow  and  thickens  at  its  surface.  Some  empty  their 
bowls  under  the  tree,  while  others  carry  home  the  juice  for 
their  children.  This  fine  tree  rises  like  the  broad  leaved  star- 
apple.  Its  oblong  and  pointed  leaves,  tough  and  alternate,  are 
marked  by  lateral  ribs  ;  some  of  them  are  ten  inches  long. 
We  did  not  seethe  liower.  The  fruit  is  somewhat  iieshy,  and 
contains  a  nut,  sometimes  two.  The  milk,  obtained  by  incis- 
ions made  in  the  trunk,  is  glutinous,  tolerably  thick,  free  from 
all  acrimony,  and  of  an  a2;reeable  and  balniy  smell.  It  was  of- 
fered to  us  in  the  sheil  of  the  calabash-tree.  We  drank  a  con- 
siderable quantity  of  it  in  the  evening  before  v/e  went  to  bed, 
and  ver}^  early  in  the  morning,  without  experiencing  the 
slightest  injurious  effect.  The  viscosit}'-  of  this  milk  alone 
renders  it  somewhat  disagreeable.  The  negroes  and  free  la- 
borers drink  it,  dipping  into  it  their  maize  or  cassava-bread. 

Bogota. — This  is  the  capital  of  Colombia,  though  not  the 
most  populous  city.  It  is  situated  in  a  spacious  and  fertile 
plain  on  the  most  easterly  edge  of  the  Andes,  at  an  elevation 
of  upwards  of  SOOO  fcet  above  tiie  level  of  the  sea.  The  pop- 
ulation is  about  30,000.  The  costume  of  the  people  is  remark- 
able, particularly  that  of  the  females.  There  is  no  distinction 
between  rich  and  poor,  in  the  style  of  walking-dress.  The 
mantilla,  black  or  light  blue,  made  a  la  mode  Espagnole,  is 
worn;  a  piece  of  blue  cloth  envelops  the  head,  and  frequently 
conceals  the  whole  of  the  features  except  the  eyes  ;  this  reach- 
es to  the  waist,  and  the  whole  is  surmounted  with  a  broad- 
brimmed  beaver  hat.  This  is  generally  allowed  to  be  a  pre- 
posterous and  unbecoming  dress  ;  but  as  yet,  no  fashionable 
lady  has  had  the  courage  to  set  a  new  style,  for  the  example 
of  her  countrywomen.  They  are  sedulously  careful  to  deck 
their  feet  in  the  most  becoming  manner,  and  with  studied  co- 
quetry, as  they  are  in  general  well  formed  and  extremely  small. 
Their  step  is  very  peculiar,  all  from  hip  to  ankle,  without 
bending  the  knee,  and  with  a  sidelong  motion  of  the  body. 
The  lower  classes  are  generally  barefooted,  except  the  peas- 
antry of  the  plains,  who  wear  a  kind  of  Roman  sandal,  made 
of  the  fibres  of  a  tree.  They  wear  likewise  a  full  large  mantle, 
called  rocfnaor  roquilla,  made  of  the  cloth  of  the  country  ;  the 
head  passes  through  a  hole  in  the  centre,  and  the  roquilla  falls 
loosely  and  gracefully  over  the  shoulders,  completely  covering 
the  body,  and  concealing  the  arms.  Some  of  the  females  as- 
sume a  very  peculiar  garb  ;  a  petticoat  of  Spanish  brown  stuff, 
with  a  mantilla  of  white  kerseymere,  a  black  beaver  hat,  and 
round  the  w^aist,  a  broad,  black  leathern  girdle,  one  end  of 
which  hangs  down  from  the  hip  nearly  to  the  ankle.  They 
are  called  beotes,  and  attire  themselves  in  this  manner  for 
many  reasons,  such  as  the  commands  of  a  confessor,  the  sick- 


124  UNIVEPxSAL  TRAVELLER. 

COLOMBIA. 


ness  of  a  hushand,  father,  or  any  other  relative  ;  but  by  many 
it  is  worn  inertly  from  tlie  desire  of  attractini;  attention. 

The  Colombians  hare  many  repaats  Ci\mn^\.\\c  clay.  At  seven 
in  tl'.e  morninir,  they  have  chocolate ;  at  ten,  a  meal  of  soup, 
eggs,  &.C. ;  they  dine  at  two,  take  choctdate  ap;ain  at  live,  and 
sup  at  an  early  hour.  From  al)<)ut  tliree  to  hall'  past  four, 
they  take  their  sicsla^  during  which  time  all  the  shojjs  are  shut, 
the  streets  deserted,  and  the  whole  city  is  in  profound  silence. 
Business  is  carried  on  frnm  nine  till  half  past  one,  and  from 
half  ]iast  four  till  half  past  five.  Every  house  has  silver  gob- 
lets, in  which  the  water  is  handed  round  to  the  guests.  Napkin.s 
are  not  used,  and  the  table  linen  is  coarse.  It  is  the  cu.stom 
to  wash  hands  after  dinner;  then  smoking  is  introduc<'d.  The 
servants  are  generally  females,  Aery  sluttisii  and  dirty,  of  a 
race  between  the  Indians  and  Mulattoes.  There  are  very  few 
male  domestics,  as  all  tlie  able  men  were  taken  oQ"  for  the 
si^iply  of  the  armies.  The  emancipation  of  slaves  has  been 
very  great  at  Bogota,  and  but  few  remain. 

Bog'ota  is  subject  to  a  dreadful  nuisance;  every  Sat-nrday, 
the  poor  rush  into  the  town  as  if  to  take  it  by  assault;  they  be- 
siege every  door,  and,  to  gain  admittance,  endeavor  to  excite 
compassion  by  the  exposure  of  the  most  revolting  infirmities. 
Old  men,  led  by  children,  form  numerous  groups,  which, 
throughout  the  day,  obstruct  the  streets,  and  even  block  up  the 
thresholds  of  the  houses. 

The  general  routine  of  the  day  at  Bogota  commences  with 
mass,  which  is  attended  by  females  and  old  men.  Tlie  men  in 
general,  we  are  told,  do  not  giv^e  themselves  much  trouble  on 
Uiis  score,  unless  they  have  some  particular  object  in  view, 
more  attractive  than  devotion.  The  greater  part  of  the  day, 
the  laflies  lounge  on  their  sofas.  At  half  past  live,  they  at- 
tend the  aUimeda,  whence  they  return  to  receive  visits  till  be- 
tween nine  and  ten  o'clock,  at  which  hour  tliey  retire.  Tvrtu- 
liaif, or  evening  parties,  balls,  mnsfjiuradcs,  and  the  numerous 
religious  processions,  are  the  chief  amusements. 

As  far  as  I  had  an  opportunity  of  judging,  says  the  author 
of  Letters  from  Colombia,  Bogota  is  the  most  justly  celebrated 
place  in  the  whole  republic  (()r  iioautiful  women.  The  change 
is  the  more  striking,  after  the  hideous  jiopulation  one  meet.s 
with  in  many  of  the  towns  and  village.s,  in  the  great  extent  of 
country  lietween  the  two  capitals.  It  i.'t  not  iiom  a  few  in- 
stances one  is  led  to  foini  such  an  opinion,  the  uiajority  of  the 
female  sex  here  being  fairly  entitled  to  this  reputation.  From 
the  coolness  of  the  climate,  their  complexions  are  naturally 
fair  and  very  clear.  They  inheiit,  at  tlu*  same  time,  the  line, 
expressive  dark  vyi^i^,  and  regular  features  of  the  Sj)anisli 
women,  although  partaking  but  in  a  slight  degree  of  their  ele- 
gant fij^ures,  owing  to  their  careless  manner  of  dressing  and 
Betting  off  thfir  persons.  They  have,  however,  pretty  feet,  and 
an  easy  carriage.     From  the  superiority  of  their  personal  aj>- 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  125 


COLOMBIA. 


pearance,  there  is  the  more  reason  to  regret  the  absence  of 
Those  endowments  of  mind,  and  that  conduct,  which  alone 
render  beaut)''  permanently  attractive.  There  are,  perhaps, 
few  cities,  (it  is  to  be  hoped  so  at  least,)  where  the  women  are 
so  generally  depraved  ;  and  although  there  are,  no  doubt,  in- 
dividuals of  uncorrupted  morals  and  virtuous  conduct,  it  is 
too  evident  that  their  numbej-  is  but  small.  Capt.  Cochrane 
expresses  his  apprehension  that  morality  in  Colombia  is  at  a 
low  ebb.  After  marriage,  the  ladies  of  Bogota  deem  them- 
selves, for  the  most  part,  entitled,  especially 'if  their  husbands 
are  out  of  the  way,  to  act  exactly  as  inclination  prompts.  He 
admits  that  exceptions  exist,  and  that  there  are  many  highly 
resjiec table,  virtuous,  and  honorable  families. 

All  the  houses  are  lav:,  in  consequence  of  the  apprehension 
of  earthquakes  ;  they  are  built  of  sun-dried  brick,  white- 
washed, and  covered  with  tiles.  As  to  the  interior,  says  M. 
Mollien,  the  houses  are  not  better  arranged  than  ours  were  at 
the  time  of  the  discovery  of  America.  Windows  very  small, 
and  always  barricadoed  by  large  wooden  bars,  are  seen  by 
the  side  of  others  of  an  immense  size  ;  the  beams  are  rarely 
concealed  by  a  ceiling  ;  the  walls  have  enormous  projections; 
the  doors  are  of  all  heights  ;  the  vise  of  locks  is  scarcely  known : 
at  least  those  manufactured  in  the  country  aflbrd  but  little 
security.  The  use  of  glazed  windows  is  but  of  recent  intro- 
duction ;  a  less  barbarous  taste  is,  however,  observable  in  the 
consti'uction  of  many  modern  habitations,  and  several  im- 
jjrovements  begin  to  appear.  Light  and  convenient  balconies 
have  superseded  the  enormous  heavy  galleries;  the  ceiling  is 
no  longer  disagreeably  intersected  by  beams ;  the  windows 
are  without  barricadoes  ;  the  street  doors  better  painted  :  a 
general  neatness  is,  indeed,  being  introduced  through  all 
classes.  In  general,  two  gates  are  to  be  passed  before  arriving 
in  the  court-3'ard.  The  entry  which  separates  fi'om  the  street, 
is  but  too  often  tlie  receptacle  for  the  uncleanliness  of  the  pas- 
sengers. A  gallery  generally  runs  round  the  court,  if  the  house 
consists  only  of  a  ground  floor;  but  if  of  two  stories,  a  covered 
terrace.  The  stair-case  is  generally  of  stone,  and  of  very  rude 
construction.  On  the  wall  of  the  first  square  is  generally 
painted  a  giant,  carrying  in  one  hand  a  child,  and  in  the  other 
a  ball;  this  is  St.  Christopher,  the  household  god  of  the  coun- 
try. Round  the  inner  gallery  is  a  long  suite  of  rooms,  which 
only  receive  daylight  through  the  door.  Every  house  has  at 
least  one  saloon,  and  an  eating  room ;  for  it  is  considered  im- 
polite to  receive  friends,  or  to  entertain  them,  in  a  sleeping 
room.  The  kitchen  is  always  of  an  immense  size,  less  on  ac- 
count of  the  quantity  of  provisions  cooked,  than  the  number 
of  useless  servants  assembled  there:  there  is  no  chimney,  as 
stoves  only  are  used.  No  houses  are  seen  without  carpets: 
the  ancient  straw  mats  of  the  Indians  are  no  longer  used  by 
fashionable  people,  but  are  superseded  by  carpets  of  European 
11* 


126  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 


PRODLCTIONS. —  RELIGION. 


manufacture.  Both  of  those  are  desijjned,  if  there  he  no  Sre, 
to  warm  the  apartments,  and  to  conceal  the  inecjuahties  of  the 
floor,  wlvore.  unfortunately,  the  nepli<i;ence  of  the  servants  per- 
mits the  most  loathsome  insects  to  swarm  in  immense  num- 
Ijers.  Some  persons  cover  the  walls  of  their  chambers  with 
dyed  paper;  and  numbers  have  garlands  of  flowers  and  genii 
drawn  upon  tiiem,  in  a  style  alike  indicative  of  tht^  bad  taste 
of  the  painter  and  his  employer.  The  furniture  is  simple,  and 
usually  consists  of  nothiuL!;  more  than  two  sof.is  coverni  with 
cotton,  two  small  tables,  a  few  leathern  chairs,  after  the  fashion 
of  the  fifteenth  century,  a  looking-glass,  and  three  lamps  sus- 
pended from  the  ceiling.  The  bed  is  tolerably  well  orna- 
mented, but  h'atiiers  are  never  used;  it  is  formi'd  of  two  wool 
mattresses.  With  some  slight  dillerence,  all  the  houses  re- 
semble each  other;  nothing  serves  to  distinguish  those  of  the 
ministei-K,  and  it  would  be  difficult  to  recognize  the  President's, 
were  it  not  for  the  guard  at  tiie  entrance. 

The  shops  are  crowded  togetlier.  dirty,  and  dark;  the  only 
admission  for  daylight  is  by  the  door.  These,  however,  are 
places  of  resort  for  the  idle.  Seated  upon  his  countei-,  smok- 
ing incessantly,  and  giving  laconic  answers  to  his  customers, 
the  Colombian  merchant  in  many  resjiects  resembles  those  of 
Smyrna  or  Aleppo.  Bogota  cannot  boast  of  ten  merchants, 
who  can  command  100,000  piastres,  nor  of  five  individuals 
living  upon  a  revenue  of  that  amount.  The  most  common 
incomes  are  from  five  to  10.000  |)iastres.  Almost  every  inha- 
bitant (not  in  the  employment  of  government,  in  the  church, 
or  in  the  army,)  is  a  shopkeeper. 

TUe  principal  agricnllural  producliovs  of  Colombia  are  the 
cacao,  or  chocolate  tree,  indigo,  cotton,  coffee,  sugar,  tobacco, 
maize,  potatoes,  |ihiintains,  &c.  Several  of  these  are  raised 
in  great  al)undance;  but  agriculture,  skill,  and  enttrprisc,  are 
so  generally  lacking,  that  not  a  tlnjusandth  part  of  the  produc- 
tions which  e.xuberant  nature  would  gladly  yield,  are  raised. 
Previous  to  the  year  18:^5,  a  milii(»n  of  acres  wer(>  grant(Ml  to 
a  London  company,  by  the  Colombian  govermnent,  which 
undertook  to  send  out  emigrants  to  settle  tlie  tract.  In  the 
above  year  101  persons  left  Scotland  for  that  object;  but  they 
proved  unquaiifieil  (or  the  undertaking,  and  by  their  want  of 
skill  and  enterprise,  added  to  the  habits  of  inteniperance  on 
the  part  of  many,  brought  a  heavy  loss  upon  the  as.sociation. 
"  We  trust,"  observes  Loudon,  '"  that  the  success  of  this  wise 
and  benevolent  experiment  is  retarded  only." 

Thp  Ifonian  ('nihnlir  relif^inn  in  the  futahhshrd  rclif^ion  of 
Colombia,  and  the  system  is  held  in  the  highest  veneration. 
The  number  of  ecclesiastics  of  all  grades  is  nearly  seventeen 
hundred  ;  of  nuns,  seven  hundred  and  litty,  with  aliout  double 
the  latter  number  of  novices  in  twenty-three  convents.  The 
number  of  saint  days  and  feast  days,  (including  Sundays,") 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  127 

BRAZIL. 

amounts  to  one  hundred  and  eighty.  Many  of  these  days  are 
celebrated  with  great  pomp,  but  that  which  takes  precedence 
of  all  others  is  Corpus  Christi.  This  is  annotmced  the  prcv 
ceding  evening  by  artificial  fire-works.  At  each  corner  of 
the  grand  square,  through  which  the  procession  is  to  pass,  are 
erected  four  richly  ornamented  altars,  while  by  a  singular 
mixture  of  the  sacred  and  profane,  mats  de  cocacrne.  puppet 
shows,  and  a  great  nmnber  of  cages  full  of  rare  and  curious 
animals,  are  ninged  on  all  sides.  The  rejoicing  and  games 
cease  the  moment  the  bell  is. heard  announcing  the  approach 
of  the  procession.  Every  one  takes  off  his  hat  and  kneels 
down  in  the  streets. 

At  the  liead  of  the  procession  are  chariots  dragged  along  by 
men ;  in  one  is  king  David,  with  the  head  of  Goliath  in  his 
hand;  in  another,  Esther;  in  a  third,  Mordecai ;  Joseph  next 
makes  his  appearance  upon  a  horse  richl)^  caparisoned,  and 
followed  by  a  great  number  of  guards ;  these,  however,  are 
only  mounted  on  pasteboard  chargers.  All  these  personages 
are  the  children  of  the  principal  inhabitants  of  the  citJ^  To 
obtain  the  honor  of  acting  a  part  in  this  imposing  spectacle,  is 
a  great  desideratum;  and  those  who  are  honored,  by  having 
their  children  nominated,  neglect  no  kind  of  expense;  rivalling 
each  other  in  splendor,  they  lay  pearls,  diamonds,  emeralds, 
and  rubies  under  contribution,  and  put  their  imagination  to  the 
rack,  in  order  to  render  the  dresses  of  the  actors  more  magni- 
ficent. The  clergy  advance  slowly  amid  the  crowd  of  the 
faithful,  with  which  the  square  is  thronged.  The  most  beauti- 
ful girls  in  the  city  walk  between  the  rows  of  priests,  some  car- 
rying the  ark.  and  the  shew-bread,  others,  incense,  or  baskets 
of  flowers.  To  these  succeed  young  Indians,  who  to  the  sound 
of  a  flute  and  tabor,  perform  wild  fantastic  dances.  The  pro- 
cession is  closed  by  a  detachment  of  troops,  v.'ith  arms  and 
colors  reversed. 

Bull-fights,  cock-fights,  the  theatre,  and  gambling,  are  the 
chief  amusements  of  the  gentlemen. 


2.  BRAZIL 

Brazil^  the  survey  of  which  we  shall  next  attempt,  lies,  it 
will  be  sufficient  for  our  purpose  to  say,  on  the  south  and  east 
of  Colombia,  having  the  Atlantic  in  part  on  the  north,  and 
wholly  on  the  east.  It  has  an  area  of  3,000,000  square  miles, 
and  extends  over  three  fifths  of  the  whole  continer^of  South 
America. 

It  is  the  remark  of  a  writer,  "that  there  is  scarcely  to  be 
found  on  the  globe  a  finer  country  than  this  ;  one  blessed  with 
a  more  genial  climate,  or  more  fertile  soil  ;  more  happily  di- 
versified with  wood  and  water,  or  with  abundance  of  naviga- 
ble rivers;  or  more  famed  for  its  precious  produce  of  gold  and 


128  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

BRAZIL. 

diamonds.  It  comprises  within  its  limits  almost  ail  tiie  most  val- 
ualjie  productions  of  tlie  earth.  Viewed  from  tlie  sea,  the  coun- 
try apiiejns  ru2;sred  and  mountainous  ;  but  on  a  nearer 
approach  its  appearance  is  iiiuhly  romantic  and  jiicturesque, 
clothed,  as  it  is,  with  the  most  luxuriant  vegetation,  its  liills 
covered  with  thick  woods,  and  its  valleys  with  a  verdure  which 
never  fades.  Towards  the  interior,  the  land  rises  by  crentle 
gradations  to  the  height  of  from  3000  to  GOOO  feet  al)ove  the 
Tevel  of  the  sea;  and  in  those  temperate  reirions,  European 
fruits  antl  trrains  are  raised  in  abundance,  while  the  interme- 
diate valleys  are  extremely  favorable  to  the  production  of 
suirar.  codec,  and  all  kinds  of  tropical  produce.  A  lartre  part 
of  till'  inteiior,  iiowever,  is  overspi-ead  with  impenetrable  for- 
ests; the  trees  closely  interwoven  with  bruslnvood  ami  shrubs, 
and  covered  with  creepins;  plants,  adorned  with  beautiful 
flowers;  thus  giving  a  })eculiar  and  rich  appearance  to  the 
scenery." 

Such  is  a  brief  account  of  the  country,  whose  inhabitants 
we  propose  to  examine,  in  the  several  respects  of  character, 
manners,  customs.  &c.  Their  number  is  generally  |)ut  at 
4.000,000,  of  which  500,000  only,  or  not  to  exceed  850,000. 
are  whites;  an  equal  number  are  mulatloes ;  fiom  two  mil- 
lions to  two  millions  and  a  half,  are  negro  slaves,  and  the  rest 
are  Indians,  mixed  bre  -ds,  and  free  blacks.  A  more  ])articu- 
lar  classiHcation  would  be,  1.  P^uropeans;  2.  white  persons 
born  in  Brazil,  wlio  claim  to  be  distinguislied  as  Brazilians  ; 
3.  Mulaltoes,  that  is,  the  mixed  caste,  between  whites  and 
blacks;  4.  Mamalucoes,  the  mixed  caste,  whites  and  Indians; 
5.  Indians  in  a  domesticated  st;ite,  who  are  generally  called 
Cabocloes;  G.  Indians  in  a  savage  state,  who  are  called  To- 
payus ;  7.  free  negroes  born  in  Brazil ;  8.  mar.umitted  Africans  ; 
0.  Mestizoes,  the  mixed  caste,  between  Indians  and  negroes. 
The  slave  population  consists  of  Africans,  Creole  negroes, 
niulattoes,  and  mestizoes. 

In  Brazil,  unlike  the  Spanish  and  English  colonics,  there  is 
hardly  any  political  division  of  castes,  and  very  few  ofMhosc 
galling  and  degrading  distinctions,  which  have  been  made  by 
all  other  nations,  in  the  management  of  their  colonies.  Mar- 
riages between  white  men  and  women  of  color  are  by  no 
m<-ans  rare,  and  the  circumstance  is  scarcely  observed  upon, 
unless  the  woman  is  decidedly  of  a  dark  color,  for  even  a 
considerable  tinge  will  iiass  for  white.  What  is  remarkable, 
notwitlistandinir  the  relationship  of  the  niulattoes  on  one  side 
to  the  black  race,  they  consider  themselves  superior  to  the 
mamalucoes,  taking  pride  in  being  wholly  unconnected  with 
llie  Indians  ;  even  the  mestizo  tries  to  pass  for  a  mulatto.  The 
mamalucoes,  on  the  other  hand,  whether  from  a  conscion.s- 
ness  of  iK'ing  of  free  birth  on  both  sides,  or  from  residing  for 
the  most  part  in  the  interior,  where  the  government  is  more 
loose,  appear  to  have  more  independence,  and   to  pay  less 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  12t) 

CHARACTER  OF  THE  INHABITANTS. 

deference  to  a  white,  than  the  mulattoes.  They  are  hand- 
somer than  the  mulattoes,  and  the  women  of  this  caste  surpass 
in  beauty  all  others  of  the  country.  The  creole  negroes  form, 
in  the  northern  provinces,  a  numerous  and  distinct  race  ;  they 
have  handsome  persons,  are  brave  and  hardy,  obedient  to 
the  whites,  and  willing  to  please;  but  are  easily  affront- 
ed, and  the  sligl)test  allusion  to  their  color  enran-es  them  to  a 
high  degj-ee.  Tliey  will  sometimes  reply:  "A  negro  I  an», 
but  always  upright." 

The  foUoin'n^  sketch  of  the  BrazUlan  character  is  from  the 
pen  of  Dr.  Walsh.  "  I  had  now  travelled,  soys  he,  seven  or 
eight  hundred  miles,  through  remote  and  little  frequented  parts 
of  the  country,  and  had  been  every  dyy.  for  several  weeks, 
mixing  with  different  people  of  ever)'' class,  so  as  to  enable  me 
to  form  some  estimate  of  the  inhabitants.  I  had  been  taught 
to  believe,  that  I  should  find  them  rough  and  rude  in  their  man- 
ners, and  strongly  and  unreasonably  prejudiced  against  all 
strangers  ;  so  indolent,  that  they  neglected  all  the  advantages 
of  their  fine  countrv,  and  Sv*)  ignorant  that  they  not  only  knew 
nothing  of  themselves,  but  were  utterly  iudilfei'ent  in  search- 
ing for  any  source  of  information;  of  quick  and  irritable  tem- 
per, readily  disposed  to  take  and  resent  an  offence,  even  by 
the  assassination  of  the  offender  ;  of  a  churlish  and  inhospita- 
ble disposition,  not  inclined  to  admit  others  into  their  houses, 
and,  though  selfishly  ready  to  receive,  never  known  to  return 
an  invitation  ;  so  mercenary,  that  they  would  take  all  they 
could  get,  but  would  give  nothing  without  more  than  an  ade- 
quate i-eturn  ;  so  sensual,  that  they  indulged  their  propensities 
in  this  way  without  m.uch  restraint  from  the  laws  of  morality 
or  religion,  and  every  house  a  flimily  brothel ;  so  dishonest, 
that  notliing  was  safe  with  a  traveller,  and  t-lie  roads  so  inse- 
cure, and  murders  so  frequent,  that  the  fatal  spots  were  mark- 
ed at  every  hundred  yards,  where  bodies  have  been  found, 
and  numerous  others  were  never  discovered,  till  their  saddles 
were  seen  rising  up  in  judgment  on  the  tops  of  trees,  from  the 
pits  into  which  they  were  thrown.  Such  was  the  opinion  I 
had  been  taught  to  entertain,  before  I  left  England,  which  my 
experience  of  the  people  has  enabled  me  to  appreciate, 

•'  Though  sometimes  rouah  and  un))olished,  they  are  re- 
markably kind  and  good-natured;  and  their  former  prejudice 
against  strangers  never  renders  them  hostile,  or  even  uncivil. 
On  the  contrary,  stranger,  with  them,  seems  a  sacred  name, 
when  he  stands  in  need  of  their  assistance.  I  was  in  many 
places,  without  introduction  or  equipage,  travel-worn,  soiled 
and  neglected  in  my  person,  and  exceedingly  unprepossessing, 
I  imagine,  in  my  appearance.  Yet,  I  was  kindly  received,  as 
an  inmate  into  the  houses  of  the  only  persons  to  whom  I  ap- 
plied, and  those  in  every  rank  in  life ; — a  titled  Dona,  a  Bra- 
zilian gentleman,  and  the  humble  keeper  of  a  poor  rancho,  the 
occupier  of  a  small  room,  all  equally  received  me  with  cordial 


130  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

RKAZIL. 


hospitality,  and  gave  uj)  their  own  necessary  comforts  for  my 
accommodation. 

"  If  thoy  are  indolent,  it  has  hitherto  been  for  want  of  a 
proper  slimnlanl.  and  the  baiieful  and  enervatinp;  effects  of 
having  ail  tiieir  labor  pprfornicd,  and  the  wants  snpplied  by 
slaves.  Where  a  due  incentive  is  applied,  there  arc  no  people 
more  active.  Since  the  openins;  of  the  interior,  and  a  free 
commnnication  with  other  conntries,  new  roads  iiave  been 
pushed  into  deserts,  where  human  foot,  except  that  of  the 
•savaire,  never  trod;  and  plantations  of  food  i)e<2;un,  where 
nothinji;  but  wood  and  bushes  had  before  been  since  the  crea- 
tion. Indeed,  the  increasinr;;  intercourse  on  the  roads,  and 
the  transportation  of  produce  from  place  to  jilace,  is  more  ac- 
tive than  I  have  seen  in  any  countiy,  exce|it  Enjjland. 

"  If  they  are  ignorant,  it  is  not  from  any  want  of  a  desire  for 
knowledge,  or  a  disposition  to  learn.  "When  the  post  arrives 
at  S.  .Jose,  or  a  similar  jilace,  the  ofhce  is  crowded  with  peo- 
ple, who  come  for  their  newspapers,  and  others  who  press 
forward  easier  to  know  what  they  contain  :  and  every  provin- 
cial town  lias  now  a  newspap(>r^f  its  own.  In  the  serra  of 
Lenlieiros,  they  have  estaljlished  a  respectable  public  library, 
at  S.  Joao  d'el  Rey,  with  a  literary  society  ;  and  schools  of 
primary  instruction  are  opened,  wherever  there  is  a  collection 
of  houses  to  supply  scholars,  who  arc  so  eager  to  learn,  that 
in  some  places,  (or  want  of  books,  they  are  instructed  out  of 
manuscripts;  and  along  the  roads,  (he  huml:)lest  iieople  were 
glad  to  receive,  and  ready  to  give,  any  useful  information. 

"If  they  are  a  people  of  a  (/nick  and  irrilnhlc  Irnijx'?-,  they 
seldom  carry  it  to  a  fatal  excess.  ])iielling,  that  Hagrant  vio- 
lation of  the  laws  oC  God  and  man,  so  common  amonur  us,  is 
never  heard  of  in  Brazil,  and  as.sassinations  are  more  talked 
of  than  committed.  It  is  a  vulgar  prejudice,  that  all  crosses 
set  up,  in(ima(e  nuu"der.  Of  the  hundreds  we  nu't.  there  were 
but  two,  as  (aras  we  could  learn,  (hat  denoted  it;  and  but  one 
murder  attended  with  robbery;  the  rest  were  land  marks, 
road-marks,  pious-marks,  or  marks  to  indicate  sudden  death 
from  accidental  or  natmal  causes  ;  niost  of  them  now  very 
old  and  rotten,  and  apparently  the  most  recent  of  those  we 
saw,  was  d.ited  in  the  yi*ar  islti,  anbiding  a  presumption 
that  no  accident  of  the  kind  it  intimates  had  occurred  for 
twenty  years. 

"  If  tliey  are  not  inclined  to  'nwilr  people  to  their  liojisrs,  it  is 
not  from  a  churlish  disposition,  but  because  their  houses  are 
not  (itted  up  (i)r,  or  they  themselves  in  the  habit  of,  such  in- 
tercourse. Their  females  are  retiring  and  domestic ;  yet 
prompt  and  pleased  in  showing  a  visiter  all  the  courtesy  and 
civility  in  their  power.  A  nn'rcenary  |irople,  1  slmuld  not  sup- 
po.se  them.  AVIiciiever  I  paid  for  any  tiling,  the  demand  was 
something  exceedingly  fair  and  moderate;  anfl  on  some  oc- 
casions, when  I  received  my  money's  worth,  no  renuuieration 
would  be  accepted.     Tlic  proprietor  of  a  topaz  mine  suffered 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  131 

CHARACTER  OF  THE  INHABITANTS. 

me  to  pick  up  his  gems,  and  put  them  in  my  pocket;  and  the 
proprietor  of  a  gold  mine  presented  me  with  a  paper  of  his 
precious  metal,  and  positively  declined  any  return. 

"  If  they  indulge  in  illicit  intercourse^  we  should  recollect 
that  one  of  the  baneful  effects  of  slavery,  is  to  form  such  con- 
nexions; that  a  Brazilian  residing  by  himself,  insulated  in  a 
desert,  and  having  none  of  the  restraints  which  the  opinions, 
of  society  impose  to  hinder  him,  readily  adopts  such  a  prac- 
tice, anji  lives  with  his  female  slaves,  as  with  persons  who  are 
unworthy  of  the  rank  or  station  of  his  wife.*  When  he  does 
form  a  legitimate  connexion,  the  laws  of  marriage  are  as  much 
respected  as  in  any  country  in  Europe,  and  almost  any  Bra- 
zilian has  a  greater  number  than  usual  of  lawful  children,  by- 
women  who  are  remarkable  for  correctness  of  conduct,  and 
domestic  duties.  Connexions  of  nearer  kindred  than  are  al- 
lowed with  us  are  very  usual,  but  they  are  sanctioned  by 
crowned  heads,  both  in  Spain  and  Portugal ;  such  as  a  man 
marrying  the  child  of  his  brother  and  sister.  Even  the  con- 
nexion of  still  nearer  relatives,  I  am  sorry  to  say,  takes  place; 
but  it  is  very  rare,  and  pointed  at ;  and  as  far  as  I  could  learn, 
as  much  stigmati.zcd  by  public  reprobation  as  in  this  country. 
Two  persons  were  shown  to  m.e  as  living  in  this  way,  and  with 
expressions  of  horror,  by  my  informant.  Ic  is  true,  that  1  did 
meet  in  the  woods  of  theserra  of  Mantiqueiza,  one  mixed  fam- 
ily of  blacks  and  whites,  who  exhibited  in  their  dances  pain- 
ful indications  of  licentious  habits  ;  but  I  believe  they  were  all 
boiui  in  slavery,  and  displayed  rather  examples  of  that  de- 
moralizing state,  tlian  of  the  general  characler  of  the  Bra- 
zilians. 

"But  of  all  charges,  that  of  uishcveHty  and  Tobhrr-y,  seems 
most  unfounded,  and  I  knov,-  no  country  through  which  I  would 
now  travel,  with  a  greater  feeling  of  security.  In  the  vicinity 
of  Rio,  a  robbery  is  sometimes  committed  on  the  hills,  by  fu- 
gitive slaves,  and  in  the  low  grounds  about  the  bay,  by  vagrant 
saiioi^s  ;  but  when  the  scrra  is  once  passed,  there  is  no  further 
danger.  My  friend,  Mr.  Dural,  travelled  for  weeks  together 
through  the  country,  by  night  and  day;  he  nowhere  hesitated 
to  enter  a  wood,  or  stop  at  a  solitary  ranch.o,  and  never  feit 
hiniselfj  nor  heard  from  others,  any  cause  for  the  apprehen- 
sion of  danger.  Whatever  is  forgotten  at  the  little  ranchos 
on  the  road,  is  found  untouched  when  the  passenger  returns. 
Mr.  Milward  left  articles  coming  up,  v/hich  had  escaped  his 
memory;  they  were-kept  for  him  as  a  solemn  deposit,  and  de- 
livered to  him  when  we  were  going  back.  The  miserable 
places  called  quartos,  afford  little  piotection  against  thieves, 
and  the  open  ranchos  stili  less;  y«t  we  never  lost  the  smallest 
article  when  together,  nor  I  by  myself,  when  we  separated. 
But  there  is  one  experiment  of  mine,  which  I  cannot  help 
thinking  is  highly  creditable  to  the  native  integrity  of  the  peo- 

*  The  author  here-quolcd,  probably  dees  not  design  to  justify  the  above 
prnctice,  as  he  himself  denominates  k  "one  of  \hclane/ul  eflects  of  slavery." 


132         UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

BRAZIL. 

plo.  It  was  universally  believed,  and  the  report  went  every 
where  before  me,  that  I  was  bringincj  with  me  a  cliest  of  gold 
from  the  mines,  and  I  was  in  a  state  utterly  heljiless  and  un- 
protected, being  myself  a  total  stranger,  and  having  no  one 
with  me  but  a  poor  despised  negro  for  a  guide,  wlio  was  held 
in  no  more  estimation  than  the  mule  he  led.  I  passed  through 
solitary  countries,  where  there  was  neither  police  to  hiuit  out 
a  delinquent,  a  prison  to  jiiit  him  in  if  lie  was  caught,  nor  a 
judge  to  condemn  him  if  he  was  guilty.  I  was  carrying  an 
object  of  great  temjitation  and  cupidity,  inviting,  as  it  were, 
the  people  to  come  and  carry  it  off,  who  were  themselves  pre- 
judiced and  angry  at  the  very  act  of  my  taking  it  out  of  the 
country;  and  I  lui't  them  ever}'  day  in  lonely  mountains  and 
wild  woods,  where  1  might  disappear  v.ith  my  treasure,  and 
iio  question  or  inquiry  be  ever  made  after  me  again.  Yet,  I 
brought  my  chest  of  supposed  gold  perfectly  safe  through  a 
ptviple  who  secured  to  tliink  it  was  their  property,  and  that  I 
juid  no  right  to  take  it  away ;  an  instance  of  forbearance  in 
this  lawless  country,  as  some  are  jilcased  to  call  it,  which,  I 
doubt,  would  not  happen  in  England  at  the  present  day,  or  in 
Ireland  eitlicr,  since  the  days  of  '  rich  and  rare.'  " 

In  respect  to  Hip.  jnanverf  nf  the  Letter  classes  of  the  people, 
cspeciall}'^  of  Rio  de  Janeiro,  Lisbon,  according  to  Mr.  Brack- 
er.ridge,  is  the  model  upon  which  they  are  formed  ;  and  it  is 
probable,  that  t!iis  has  not  changed  since  the  .-irrival  of  the 
rftyal  family,  'i'he  Portuguese  arc  said  to  be  the  onl}'  people 
in  Europe  who  I'lreserve  that  Moorish  jealousy,  which  has  been 
banished  even  fi'om  f^^pain.  Tlie  female  part  of  their  families 
are  shut  up  in  tlie  strictest  manner,  and  never  venture  abroad, 
unless  it  be  to  church;  and  then  with  their  fac(>s  wrajjt  up  in  a 
l>lack  mantle,  which  passes  over  the  head.  Men  seldom  intro- 
duce their  most  intimate  friends  to  their  v.iveso)- daughters;  and 
except  ;!t  tlie  thr;itre,  they  are  rarely  seen  in  iiubiic.  Some- 
times, indeed,  tlicy  venture  to  sit  in  the  evening  at  their  win- 
<io\vs,  and  from  their  actions,  strangers  unacquainted  with  the 
customs  of  the  country,  would  be  apt  to  form  unfavorable  in- 
ferences from  their  smiles  and  beckonings.  The  throwing,ol 
flowers  at  p^  r.-  or.s  passing  along,  is  known  to  be  an  innocenl 
display  of  gayity,  to  which  custom  attaches  noli)ing  improper. 
It  is  also  very  probable,  that  this  frivolity  is  not  very  co-ninor 
among  the  better  class  of  people ;  and  that  strangers  from  ob 
fjcrvinic  these  things  in  a  few  inslanies,  of  persons  of  a  difib) 
cnt  cast,  have  b(  eil  lid  to  form  a  mistaken  idea  of  the  ref ,. 
The  accounts  given  by  Frezior  r.nd  others,  who  consider  tlic 
Brazilian  women  as  totally  devoirl  of  that  delicacy  which  chjir- 
jicterizes  the  sex  in  other  countries,  and  as  continually  engyged 
in  the  most  shaneful  intrigues,  cannot  but  be  exa;,'gcrat(('  At 
the  same  time,  it  is  natural  to  suppoi^e,  that  when  thus  imr /ured 
from  society,  and  deprived  of  daily  and  free  intercour  ^  with 
'the  wor'.d,   tho.se  very  cfTccls   would  be  produced,    jgainat 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  133 


which  this  cruel  jealousy  is  intended  to  guard.  There  is  but 
one  day  in  the  year,  on  which  they  are  permitted  to  walk 
freely  abroad  in  the  streets ;  a  kind  of  saturnalia,  almost  as 
insulting  to  them  as  their  imprisonment.  Marriages  of  incli- 
nation are  rarely  made;  they  are  usually  bargains  between 
the  husband  and  the  parents.  There  is  a  species  of  cruelty 
practised  by  the  rich  in  the  cities,  that  is  really  shocking  to 
the  mind  of  an  American.  It  is  not  uncommon  for  men  to 
compel  their  daughters  to  take  the  veil,  merely  with  a  view  to 
preserve  greater  wealth  in  the  family,  as  without  this  unfeel- 
ing practice,  they  would  be  under  the  obligation  of  settling  a 
part  of  their  estates  as  a  marriage  portion,  or  for  their  support. 
In  consequence  of  this  state  of  manners,  society  is  on  a  wretch- 
ed footing  at  Rio  Janeiro. 


'tj 


Of  the  costume,  habits,  and  manners  of  the  inhabitants,  a 
most  minute  account  has  been  furnished  by  Mr.  Luccock, 
which  we  give  in  his  own  words.  It  is  possible  that  some 
changes  may  have  taken  place  in  consequence  of  the  extraor- 
dinary stimulus  given  to  every  kind  of  improvement  by  recent 
poUtical  events  ;  but  it  forms,  no  doubt,  a  correct  representa- 
tion of  the  state  of  society  in  Rio,  previously  to  its  separation 
from  the  mother  country. 

"  Of  their  dress  and  appearance,"  says  this  intelligent  travel- 
ler, "  we  strangers  were  more  competent  judges  than  of  their 
minds.  The  former  is  of  the  lightest  sort.  Among  their 
familiar  friends,  they  are  seen  with  a  shift  only,  bound  about  the 
waist  with  the  strings  of  a  petticoat,  and  the  bosom  of  it  often 
falling  off  from  one  shoulder.  They  wear  no  stockings,  and 
seldom  either  slippers,  or  the  wooden  clogs,  with  brown  upper 
leathers,  called  tamancas.  Their  hair  is  long,  and  too  com- 
monly uncombed,  bound  with  a  riband-  close  behind  the  head, 
the  ends  turned  up  to  the  crown,  and  there  twisted  about  a  sort 
of  bodkin.  Sometimes  a  wreath  of  artificial  flowers  is  added, 
ingeniously  made  by  themselves  of  silk,  beads,  colored  papers, 
tinsel,  and  the  wings  of  some  of  the  brilliant  insects  of  the 
country;  these  are  arranged  and  worn  with  taste.  Their 
mlnners  are  a  contrast  to  every  thing  graceful, — coarse,  bois- 
terous, and  pert ;  they  talk  fluently,  but  commonly  in  loud  and 
harsh  tones  ;  their  general  air  is  sly  and  coquettish ;  and  they 
have  no  idea  that  their  carriage  can  possibly  excite  disgust, 
or  even  that  they  can  fail  to  be  objects  of  admiration ;  they 
have  few  opportunities  of  conversing  with  the  other  sex,  and 
what  good  fortune  offers,  they  use  with  eagerness. 

"Such  manners  may  be  attractive  to  their  countrymen,  but 
their  influence  can  extend  no  farther.  The  ornaments  of  these 
females  have  a  pleasing  eflfect,  and  set  off  the  charms  of  a  face, 
the  features  of  which  are  round  and  regular,  of  a  black,  lively, 
inquisitive  eye,  a  smooth  and  open  forehead,  a  mouth  expres- 
sive of  simplicity  and  good  temper,  furnished  with  a  white  and 
even  set  of  teeth ;  united  with  a  moderately  handsome  figure, 
12 


134  CMVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

UKAZIL. 


a  spriffhtly  lau-Thinc;  nir,  airl  a  demeanor  gay,  frank,  and  iin- 
siispicioui.  ^licli  is  tlio  common  appearance  of  a  young  lady 
about  thiiteon  or  ((natecii  yeai'Tof  a^e  ;  a  |icriod  when  she 
usually  takes  upon  hvv  the  cares  of  a  household,  or  rather,  not- 
withstandin?  o!)vious  disciualitications,  assumes  the  character 
of  a  matron.  Indeed,  at  eisrliteen,  in  a  Brazilian  woman,  nature 
has  attained  to  full  inalurity;  a  few  years  later,  she  becomes 
corpulent,  and  even  uuuieldly.  acquires  a  2;reat  stoop  in  her 
shoulders,  and  walks  with  an  awkward,  waddling  gait;  she  be- 
gins to  dec;i\',  loses  I  lie  good  humor  of  her  countenance,  as- 
sumes in  its  place  a  contracted  and  scowling  brow;  the  eye 
and  moutli  Ixitii  indicate  that  they  have  l)een  accustomed  to 
express  tlie  vio'ont  and  vindictive  passions,  the  cheeks  are 
deprived  of  tlieir  plumpness  and  color,  and  at  twenty-five, 
or  thirty  at  most,  she  becomes  a  perfectly  wrinkled  old  wo- 
man. 

"Ep.rly  corpiilence  appeared  to  me  to  arise  from  their  seclu- 
ded and  iiidol'^nt  habits.  'J'hey  were  seldom  seen  out  of  doors, 
except  when  going  to  mass,  so  early  as  four  o'clock  in  the 
morning,  on  ffias  sfiufn.-i,  or  days  of  sacred  obliiration ;  and 
even  then,  tlio  wliole  li)rm  and  face  were  so  wrapped  up  in 
mantles,  or  enclosed  within  the  curtains  of  a  cadcira,  as  to 
preclude  the  enjoyment  of  fresh  air,  and  to  conceal  every  fea- 
ture, except  juMliaps  a  wickedly  talkative  ey(\  These  cadeiras 
answer,  less  eomiiiodiorisly.  the  same  purpose,  as  do  the  palan- 
quins of  the  K:\>t.  They  consist  of  an  arm-chair  with  a  high 
back,  to  v.hich  is  attached  a  long  foot-board  and  a  canopy. 
Around  tlio  latd-r  are  suspended  curtains  of  blue  cloth,  edged 
with  some  gaudy  color,  and  kept  closed  as  the  machine  passes 
along  the  streets,  in  order  to  conceal  the  haughty  or  the  con- 
strained d<inua  from  public  view.  The  whole  is  attached  to  a 
long  pole,  jiassiug  over  the  lady's  head,  and  is  suspended  be- 
tween two  black  men,  who  support  it  on  thtMr  shoulders. 
Such  wcr<^  the  <»nly  cai'riages  usr-d  foimerly  in  Kio  by  people 
of  fashion;  and  like  the  modern  chaise,  to  which  they  have 
lately  triven  place,  they  were  sometimes  very  splendid,  being 
decoralfd  in  such  a  manner  as  might  best  display  the  taste, 
the  wealth,  and  the  rank  of  the  owner.  Ou  the  fool-board, 
which  is  large  enough  for  the  purpose,  is  often  seated  a  little 
sen/iora,  forming  the  same  idle  habits  as  her  mother  has  done, 
and  laying  a  foundation  for  future  unwieldiness  of  a  similar 
kind. 

'•The  exercise  which  these  ladies  take,  is  almost  wholly  con- 
fined to  the  house.  r.,itlle  exertion  is  necessary,  and  that  little 
is  ojipi'sed  by  inclination  ;  they  are  surrounded  by  slaves,  and 
it  is  their  privilege  to  be  waited  u|ion.  I  have  seen  this  car- 
ried to  an  exiriit  which  would  be  ridiculf)us,  were  it  not  .some- 
thing worse;  and  am  sorry  to  add,  that  such  sights  are  not 
unnsu.il.  A  lady  was  soatcd  on  a  mat,  (one  morning  when  I 
called  upon  her.)  surroimded  by  a  number  of  slaves,  with 
needle-work  in  tb.eir  hands;  a   drinking  vessel  full  of  water 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  135 


IIARITS  AND  MANNERS 


Deing  placed  so  as  that  she  could  conveniently  reach  it.  She 
interrupted  the  conversation,  by  suddenly  calling  alould  for 
another  slave  to  come  from  a  different  )>art  of  the  house. 
When  the  negress  entered  the  room,  the  lady  said  to  her, 
'Give  me  that  drinking  vessel.'  SJie  did  f;o;  her  mistress 
drank,  and  returned  it;  the  slave  replaced  it  in  its  former  si- 
tuation, and  retired,  without  seeming  to  feel  llird  the  command 
was  an  extraordinary  one,  or  that  slie  had  performed  aught, 
which  she  had  not  done  a  thousand  times  before.  Ah!  ladies, 
thought  I,  what'  wonder  that  you  become  corpulent,  and  ruin 
your  constitution;  these  are  the  natural  effects  of  inanity. 

"  Other  causes  of  the  change  which,  has  l)een  noticed  might 
be  found,  I  have  often  thought,  in  an  obstinate  adherence  to 
unsuitable  customs.     The  shrunk  and  furrowed  appearance  of 
the   brow  seems  to  me  to  arise,  in  a  great  measure,   from 
following  European  fashions  under  the  burning  sun  of  the 
torrid    zone,  '  where  the  full  tide  of  day  is  poured.'      Even 
the  white  and  genteel  families  of  Brazil,  wear  no  covering  on 
the  head, — no  shade  for  the  eye;  hence  the  brow  and  pupil 
contract  themselves  as  much  as  possible,  to  shield  the  tender 
organ  from  the  superabundance  of  light.     The  walls  of  the 
houses,  too,  both  within  and  without,  are  universally  whitened, 
heightening,  by  reflection,  the  midday  glare,  and  sometimes 
producing   an  almost  intolerable  uneasiness  in  the  eyes  of 
persons  possessed  of  the  strongest  sight.     Is  it  wonderful  that 
the  forehead  and  eyes  of  delicate  females  should  gradually 
assume  an  habitual  contraction,  which  overclouds  many  a 
fair   face    with   appearances,    that   sometimes    misrepresent 
the  real  turn  of  the  mind?     Premature  ago  is  owing  partly  to 
climate,  partly  to  a  constitution  enfeebled  and  ruined  by  in- 
activity; most  of  all,  to  the  unnatural  and  shamefully  early 
age  at  which  females   are  allowed   to  marry.     Their  early 
good  humor,  or  the  show  of  it,  soon  wears  away  ;  they  often 
become  the  very  reverse  of  wliat  they  were,  and  exhibit  the 
alteration  too  plainly.     This  change  may  be  attributed  princi- 
pally to  the  childish  ceremony,  and  more  foolish  flattery,  with 
which  every  woman  is  treated,  who  ranks  above  the  condi- 
tion of  a  slave.     They  seem  to  be  regarded  by  the  men  as 
dolls,  or  as  spoiled  children,  whose  whims  must  be  gratified, 
and  even  anticipated  ;  and  she  who  has  tlie  greatest  number 
obtains  the  most  attention.     The  generality  of  ladies  treated 
in  this  way,  become,  almost  of  course,  fretful  and  peevish,  and 
pour  their  spleen  upon  llieir  slaves;  and  when  these  resist  or 
neglect  the  orders  given  them,  endeavor  to  subdue  them  by  a 
noisy  and  boisterous  behavior,  not  always  free  from  mahg- 
nity,  and  by  castigation,  not  the  less  severe  for  coming  from 
a  lady's  hand.     Here  is  exercise,  and  perhaps  the  most  effica- 
cious that  they  ever  take,  quickening  the  circulation,^  giving 
some  tone  to  the  muscles,  and  discharging  peccant  humors; 
but  at  the  same  time,  destroying  the  temper,  implanting  in 


136  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

BRAZIL. 


the  heart  the  principlesof  a  vixen,  and  stamping;  on  the  coun- 
tenance tlie  j/lain  indicalit^ns  of  wliat  jvissos  williin. 

"  When  a  frentlcman  calls  upon  another,  if  ho  be  not  inti- 
mate at  the  house,  he  goes  Ihitlier  in  full  dress,  with  a  cociied- 
liat,  with  buckles  in  his  shoes  and  at  the  knees,  and  witii  a 
sword  or  dirk  by  his  side.  Havins;  readied  the  bottom  of  the 
stairs,  lie  claps  his  hands  as  a  sit^nal  to  attract  attention,  and 
utters  a  sort  of  sibilant  sfiund  between  his  teeth,  and  the  end 
of  his  tons;ue,  as  thoup'h  he  pronounced  the  syllables  chce  cu. 
The  servant  who  attends  the  call,  roughly  inquires  in  a  nasal 
tone,  Who  is  it  ?  and  tieinc;  told,  refir(>s  to  inform  tin*  master 
of  the  house,  what  are  the  wishes  of  the  visiter.  If  he  be  a 
friend,  or  one  so  well  known  as  to  be  received  without  cere- 
mony, the  master  quickly  comes  to  him,  and  ushers  him  into 
the  .Sfa/rt,  making  loud  protestations  of  the  pleasure  given  him 
by  tlie  visit,  mixing  liis  complimentary  speeches  with  a  great 
number  of  bows.  Before  business  is  entered  upon,  if  that  be 
the  object,  repeated  ajiologies  are  ofiVied  for  the  free  mode  in 
which  the  visiter  is  received.  And,  there  is  often  no  little  oc- 
casion for  such  apologies;  for  the  gentlt^man  very  generally 
makes  liis  appearance  with  a  beani  of  many  days'  growth, 
with  his  black  hair  in  tlic  rougliest  stati',  tliouwh  besmeared 
with  grease,  and  with  no  clothing  over  his  cotton  shirt.  This 
garment  is,  indeed,  well  made,  and  ornamented  with  needle- 
work, especially  about  the  bosom.  But,  then,  it  is  commonly 
worn  in  the  house,  so  as  to  expose  the  iireast,  and  the  sleeves 
are  tucked  up  to  the  elbows.  Or,  if  by  cliance  it  be  secured 
at  the  neck  and  wrists  by  its  globular  gold  buttons,  the  flaps 
ajipear  on  the  outside,  hanging  lialf-way  down  the  sides,  over 
a  waistband  which  secures  round  the  joins  a  short  pair  of 
trowsers ;  wiiile  tlie  legs  are  qjiite  bare,  and  the  feet  covered 
with  tamancas.  All  this  is  not  very  delicate,  more  especially 
as  the  skins  of  the  Brazilians  al)ound  with  hair,  and  are  much 
sun-burnt  about  the  breast  and  legs. 

''  Sliould  tiie  call  l)e  a  ceremonious  one,  a  servant  is  sent  to 
conduct  the  visiter  to  the  sala,  from  which,  as  he  enters,  he 
often  sees  the  persons  who  were  in  the  room,  escaping  at  the 
other  door.  Here  he  waits  alone,  it  may  be  half  an  hour, 
when  the  gentleman  appears  in  a  sort  of  half-dre.ss.  They 
both  bow  profoundly  at  a  distance  ;  after  a  sufficiency  of  skill 
in  this  sci«'nce  has  been  dis|ilaycd,  and  thus  time  gained  to  as- 
certain each  other's  rank  and  pretensions,  they  approach,  if 
unequal,  with  corresponding  dignity  and  respect — if  supposed 
to  be  nearly  equals,  with  familiarity.  Th(>  business  is  then 
entered  upon,  and  despatched  at  once.  These  bows  between 
strangers,  and  this  slow  approach,  1  almost  like,  as  they  give 
men  some  opportunity  to  measure  and  appreciate  one  another, 
and  prevent  a  thousand  awkward  blunders  ami  equrdly  awk- 
ward apologirs.  With  my  ( ountrymen  in  general,  I  partici- 
pate in  an  abhorrence  of  the  Brazilian  embrace, 

"A  ridiculous  custom  jjrevails  (or  did  jircvail)  in  Rio,  of 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  137 


ROYAL  ETIQDETTE. 


obliging  all  persons  to  dismount  from  a  carriage  or  horse, 
when  any  of  the  royal  family  are  passing  along  the  streets. 
On  such  occasions,  an  extraordinary  and  whimsical  bustle 
takes  place  the  moment  the  approach  is  heralded  by  the  cadets; 
(attendants  somewhat  superior  to  a  common  soldier;)  some 
are  flying  for  fear  of  being  ridden  over ;  others  are  drawing 
up  their  carriages  or  mules  into  a  corner;  and  he  is  lucky, 
who  escapes  unhurt :  all  are  bareheaded.  Such  a  ceremony 
could  not  but  be  very  repugnant  to  the  feelings  of  Englishmen. 
Americans,  and  other  foreigners ;  but  they  have  generally 
complied  with  it.  But  a  few  years  since,  during  the  residence 
of  the  court  of  Lisbon  at  Rio,  the  queen  of  Portugal,  who  had 
the  character  of  being  extremely  particular  on  this  point,  was 
taking  her  usual  ride  to  a  small  cottage  and  garden  at  the 
bottom  of  the  Orange  Valley,  when  she  met  Lord  Strangford, 
who  refused  to  comply  with  the  accustomed  ceremony.  Tiie 
cadets  insulted  his  lordship,  b}'-  using  their  swords  in  compel- 
ling him  to  dismount.  The  only  redress  which  his  lordship 
obtained,  was  the  imprisonment  of  the  guards  for  a  short 
time.  Some  time  after,  Mr.  Sumpter,  then  the  American  min- 
ister to  the  court,  met  the  queen  in  the  same  neighborliood. 
The  guard  rode  up  to  him,  saying  ;  '  Apea-se-ScnorJ  He  re- 
plied, that  he  was  the  American  minister,  and  that  he  would 
not  dismount:  on  which  they  did  not  hesitate  to  compel  him. 
Mr.  Sumpter  then  said,  that  he  would  not  require  any  satisfac- 
tion for  this  gross  insult,  but  that  he  should  provide  himself 
with  holsters  and  pistols,  and  would  shoot  the  first  person,  who 
offered  him  a  similar  insult.  Ver}'-  shortly  afterwaids,  he  met 
the  queen's  guard  again,  who  rode  up  to  him,  making  the  same 
peremptory  demand  as  before.  In  answer  to  which,  he  frank- 
ly told  them,  that  the  first  man  who  offered  him  any  violence, 
he  would  shoot  dead  upon  the  spot.  This  resolute  conduct 
induced  them  to  retire.  Upon  this,  the  queen  ordered  them  to 
proceed  a  second  time  to  dismount  Mr.  Sumpter;  but  they 
were  intimidated  by  his  continued  firmness.  It  is  generally 
believed,  that  her  majesty,  highly  incensed  at  this  spirited  con- 
duct, requested  the  minister  of  state  to  issue  an  order  for  Mr. 
Sumpter's  imprisonment.  The  minister,  however,  prevailed 
upon  her  majesty  to  wait  the  result  of  a  despatch  to  the  king 
upon  the  subject,  who  was  then  fifty  miles  ofi"  at  St.  Cruz. 
The  consequence  was,  that  orders  were  immediately  issued, 
that  no  foreigner  should  be  compelled  to  pay  more  courtesy, 
than  his  own  sovereign  would  require  from  him.  Since  that 
time,  however,  an  English  merchant,  who  was  driving  his 
lady  in  a  chaise,  was  beat  by  the  queen's  guards  till  his  arm 
became  quite  black,  and  his  life  endangered,  notwithstanding 
he  had  stopped  his  horse,  stood  up  in  the  chaise,  and  took  olf 
his  hat.  In  the  month  of  July,  1S19,  Commodore  Bowles  was 
taking  a  ride  near  the  Orange  Valley,  when  the  queen's  cadets 
beat  him  off  his  horse  with  their  swords.  The  cadets  were 
sent  on  board  the  Creole  to  apologize  for  their  conduct,  and 
12* 


138  UNIVRHSAI.  TRAVELLER. 


RIO  JANEIHO. 


the  commodore  advised  them  in  future  to  draw  Ihoir  swords 
only  niz;aiiist  an  enemy.  To  the  kinp;,  vlio  did  not  require 
tliis  ridiculous  and  inconvenient  houiasre,  the  Enc;lish  fjener- 
aily  were  desirous  of  showini^  tlieir  respect  by  di.snioiinting. 

'•  The  indolence  with  which  all  clas.ses  of  tlie  iiiiiid)itan(s  of 
Rio  are  reproached,  is  undoubtedly  to  be  ascrilx-d,  in  some 
measure,  to  the  relaxing;  climate.     The  merchants.  Mr.  Luc- 
cock  says,  seldom  employ  them?;elves    for  more  than  three 
hours  in  the  day.      The  shopkeepers  are  cijually  idle.     All 
shop-doors  are  closed,  or  nearly  so.  at  noon.     A  cloth  is  then 
spread  on  the  counter,  in  the  close,  damp  room,  which  serves 
as  shop,  parlour,  and  bedroom,  if  not  'kitchen  and  all;'  and 
the  only  reg;ular  meal  in  the  day  is  then  hastily  taken.     The 
middle  classes  of  the  citizens  of  Rio,  who  have  not  entirely 
adopted  the  manners  of  Portii2;al,  take  a  small  proportion  of 
animal  food,  contenting;  them.selves  with  the  admirable  fruits 
and  the  chee.se  imported  from   Merias   Geraes,  which,  witJ) 
banians,  is  met  with  on  every  tabl(>.     The  I'.razilian  eats  even 
wheaten  bread  but  sjiariuirly,  preferring  to  it  his  farinha.     He 
eats  but  moderately  of  his  few  dishes,  drinks  chiefly  water, 
and  takes  every  thinp  with  the  greatest    regularity.     In  the 
evening,  he  very  prudently  takes  scarcely  any  thing ;  at  the 
most,  a  cup  of  tea,  or  of  cofl'ee  ;  and  he  avoids,  especially  at 
night,  eating  cool  fruits.     '  Only  such  a  regimen,'  says  Dr.  Von 
Spix,  '  and  conforming  to  the  nature  of  the  climate,  preserves 
him  from  many  diseases  to  which  the  stranger  expo.ses  him- 
self through  ignorance  or  inattention.'     Fish  is  not  so  much 
eaten  here  as  on  the  northern  coasts.     Mandioc  and  maize 
flour,  and  black  beans,  boiled  with  bacon  and  salt  b(!ef  dried 
in  the  sun,  are  the  chief  articles  of  diet  among  the  lowei 
classes." 

At  liin  Jimrirn  the  sujiph/  of  fix,,/  i.s  abundant  and  constant 
Herds  of  black  cattle  continually  come  from  the  interior,  anc 
are  driven  to  the  coral,  a  large  open  space  on  the  Praya  de 
Luzia,  clo.se  on  the  sea-shore.  Reside  (his,  are  erected  pub- 
lic slaughter-house.s,  where  they  are  killed,  and  then  conveyed 
on  negroes'  heads  to  diflerent  stalls  in  the  city.  "  Tlie  most 
disagreeable  spectacle  I  have  ev<;r  witnessed,"  says  Dr.  Walsh, 
"  is  one  of  these  negro  butchers  with  a  greasy  rag  round  his 
waist,  and  his  naked  body,  covered  with  blood  and  gore,  per- 
spiring under  a  raw  carcass.  This  c«.ral  is  not  far  from  the 
j)ublic  gardens,  and  situated  on  a  delightful  walk  along  the 
sea-shore;  but  the  sight  and  smell  of  every  thing  al>out  it  are 
so  offensive,  that  few  venture  tr)  pass  it.  The  beef  is  .some- 
times cut  into  large  flakes  and  dried;  and  in  that  state  called 
came  acrco.  When  hanging  in  vendas,  it  looks  like  hides  of 
leather. 

"Mutton  is  never  seen  in  the  markets  of  Rio.  R  is  a  meat  to 
which  the  Brazilians  seem  to  have  as  great  a  prejudice,  as 
Jews  to  i)ork.     When  sheep  were  first  imported  into  South 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  139 

RIO  JANEIRO. — FOOD. 

America,  in  the  temperate  southern  regions,  they  extensively 
multiplied,  and  became  wild ;  but  in  Brazil  they  greatly  dete- 
riorated. The  wool  lost  its  fleeciness,  and  became  stiff  and 
wiry,  like  the  hair  of  old  floats.  How  far  this  unnatural 
change  might  have  affected  tne  people,  I  cannot  say  ;  but  they 
do  not  eat  the  sheep,  and  will  not  rear  them.  Beyond  the 
serra  of  Martiquera,  are  the  most  extensive  and  beautiful 
downs  in  the  world,  covered  witii  pasture  like  tiiose  of  Sussex, 
and  in  a  temperate  region  ;  but  there  is  not  to  be  seen  on  them 
a  single  sheep.  Towards  the  Rio  de  la  Plata,  on  the  spacious 
plains,  where  they  have  greatly  increased,  I  have  been  in- 
formed they  api^ly  them  to  an  extraordinary  use.  Fuel  is' 
very  scarce,  and  mutton  very  plentiful,  so  they  throw  sheep 
into  kilns,  as  a  material  to  burn  bricks.  It  was  formerly  not 
unusual  to  drive  sheep  alive  into  a  Ume-kiln ;  but  an  edict 
was  made  against  this  cruel  practice,  which  is  still  in  force. 
I  tell  you  the  tale  as  'twas  told  to  me,  by  several  people ;  and 
on  inquiring  into  the  truth  of  it,  from  a  gentleman  who  had 
lately  come  from  that  country,  and  whose  veracity  I  could  not 
doubt,  he  informed  me  that  he  had  actually  seen  a  man  at 
Buenos  Ayres  throw  a  shoulder  of  mutton,  as  fuel,  on  the  top 
of  (he  lire.  Mutton,  however,  is  sometimes  purchased  at  Rio 
by  Europeans,  for  whose  use  alone  it  is  killed.     It  is  very  bad. 

"  Pork,  on  the  contrary,  is  the  great  food  of  the  people,  and 
it  is  plentiful  and  very  good.  It  is  prepared  and  eaten  in  a 
peculiar  way.  When  the  pig  is  killed,  the  butcher  dexterously 
scoops  out  the  bones  and  muscular  flesh,  leaving  behind  only 
the  covering  of  fat.  In  this  state  it  is  salted,  folded  up,  and 
sent  in  great  quantities  to  Rio.  All  the  stores  and  vendas 
are  full  of  it;  and  it  is  used  commonly  for  culinary  purposes, 
and  forms  an  ingredient  in  every  Brazilian  article  of  cookery. 

"  Fish  is  in  plenty,  but  not  remarkable.  Prawns  are  very 
large,  resembling  young  lobsters.  Oysters  arc  misshapen, 
long  and  deep,  with  a  very  thick  shell.  Their  quality  is  dan- 
gerous, and  a  very  small  quantity,  even  a  single  fish,  produces 
on  strangers  a  violent  cathartic  effect.  Red  mullets  are  abun- 
dant and  very  good.  There  is  a  species  of  gurnet,  M'ith  enor- 
mous pectoral  fins  as  long  as  its  body,  and  larger  in  proportion 
than  those  of  a  flying  fish;  though  I  do  not  fiud  as  they  ever 
use  them  as  wings.  1  have  frequently  seen  them  taken  out  of 
the  sea,  just  before  our  windows.  Dried  cod,  from  Newfound- 
land, is  the  constant  food  during  Lent.  Among  the  fish  pe- 
culiar to  the  harbor,  there  is  one  of  which  I  have  heard  extra- 
ordinary stories.  It  is  called  a  mara.  When  young,  it  is  eat- 
en as  good  food;  but  v.'hen  old,  it  attains  an  enormous  size 
and  a  fearful  voracity ;  insomuch  that  the  monks  of  San  Bento 
formerly  paid  a  large  sum  of  money  for  every  one  destroyed. 
Col.  Cunningham  informed  me,  that  about  sixteen  years  ago, 
he  remembered  that  three  persons  v/ere  devoured  by  it  in  dif- 
ferent parts  of  the  bay;  one  was  taken  immediately  after  de- 
stroying a  man,  on  the  shore  of  Praya  Grande,  and  was  then 


140  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

J  I  ^■■■■  ■  I  -■    I  .         .  ■     ■    I    ■  ■- 


exhibited  at  the  custom-house.     It  required  ten  men,  he  said, 
to  carry  it;  and  it  was  covered  with  scales  as  iarp;o  as  a  dol- 
lar.    I  could  not  learn  that  it  liad  been  latterly  seen  by  any 
person  -,  but  the  rumor  of  its  existence  still  deters  persons 
from  li.ithinsT.     The  blacks,  who  are  elsewhere  amphibious, 
never  venture  beyond  their  kne«\s ;  and  white  men  are  very 
rarely  seen  in  the  water.     Sharks  are  not  dreaded  in  the  bay; 
"  Till-  people  of  Rio  can  raise  no  tris^n,  or  wheat,  themselves, 
but  arc  very  fond  of  wheaten  bread,  and  are  fastidious  as  to 
its  quality.     They  consume  from  eiirhly  to  one  hundred  thou- 
sand barrels  of  flour  annually,  which  is  almost  entirely  sent 
from  the  United  States;  though  till  lately  it  was  not  much  used. 
It  is  now  a  substitute  for  farinha,  or  meal  of  mandioca,  the 
iroduri>  of  the  cfiuntr}'.     The  tjakers  only  purc'lias(>   a  few 
larrcl.-  iVom  a  carf^o  as  a  sample,  before  they  venture  on  a 
ar<,a'  quantity  ;  and  Hour  of  an  inferior  quality  cannot  be  sold. 
'n  consL(pience  of  this,  the  wheaten  bread  at  Rio  is  very  ex- 
cellent ;  indeed,  I  have  never  in  any  country  met  better,  and 
seldom  so  good.     The  consumption,  however,  is  conlined  to 
the  betti  r  classes. 

''  The  farinaceous  food  of  the  poor  is  black  kidney  beans, 
and  maailioca  meal.  The  former  is  always  prepare<l  with 
pork  fat;  the  latter  is  a  snow-white  powder,  from  tli(>  pound- 
ed mauiiioca  root,  and  eaten  without  any  other  pieparation 
than  dryinff  and  grinding;  it  is  put  into  a  calabash,  and  the 
prepared  beans  mixed  with  it,  where  they  look  like  black 
beetles  crawling  in  a  heaj)  of  lime.  Mandioca  is  also  eaten 
with  carne  secco,  and  in  that  state,  rations  of  it  were  served 
out  to  the  Irish.  The  beef  was  dry  and  tou^h,  and  the  flour 
hard  and  £^ritty ;  and  an  Irishman  afterwards  complained  to 
me,  that  "he  got  nothin^rto  ,.;it  but  sawdust  and  sole  leather.' 
They  al.so  use  the  meal  of  Indian  corn,  which  they  call  inilhn  ; 
but  it  is  more  generally  given  unground  to  horses,  of  whose 
food  it  forms  a  considerable  portion.  It  is  ofl;en  boiled  whole 
with  siiii:ar  or  treacle,  and  called  aii'^n  <le  mil Uo ;  it  is  a  good 
pudding. 

'■  The  people  of  Rio  are  mon;  intiMiqic^rate  in  eating  than  in 
drinking.  Port  wine  is  not  much  used,  because  it  is  too  strong 
and  heating  for  the  climate;  that  wliich  they  hold  in  highest 
esteem — at  least  use  in  the  greatest  (jnantities,  is  ( 'afjilonian, 
of  which  there  is  considerable  importation  every  year.  The 
common  people,  and  iiarlicularl^-  the  negroes,  u.se  ra.ran  or 
cnrUdiui,  an  inferior  kind  of  rinii.  distilled  from  some  result  of 
sugarcane.  This  issocheap  that  foreigners,  particularly  sailors, 
get  greatly  addicted  to  it." 

Of  the  four  inillif»ns  of  inhabitants  in  Brazil,  from  two  mil- 
lions to  two  millions  and  a  half  are  ni'gro  slaves,  while  the 
white  |)iipuIation  are  but  half  a  million,  or  not  more  than 
85r),Oufl ;  .so  that  the  former  exceed  the  latter  in  the  proportion 
of  three  to  one.     The  importation  of  slaves  is  put  at  .30,000  per 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  I4l 

"-■--'''■■  ,  . 

ARTS. — LITERATURE. 

annum,  for  the  last  thirty  years.  The  principal  marts  from 
which  they  are  brouglit,  are  Angola,  Congo,  Angico,  Gaboon, 
and  Mosambique.  Those  of  Angola  are  the  most  highly  es- 
teemed, and  are  in  every  respect  the  most  tractable,  and  next 
to  them  the  natives  of  Congo.  The  Angicos  are  tall  and  ro- 
bust, and  their  skins  jetty  black  and  shining.  They  are  gen- 
erally distinguished  by  their  singular  mode  of  tattooing,  which 
consists  of  three  gashes  made  in  each  cheek,  and  extending, 
in  a  circular  form,  from  the  ear  to  the  angle  of  the  mouth. 
The  Gaboons  are  also  tall  and  comely,  with  great  muscular 
strength  ;  they  are,  however,  less  esteemed,  from  their  exceed- 
ing impatience  of  the  state  of  slavery  to  which  they  are  re- 
duced. They  are  greatly  addicted  to  suicide,  and  take  the  first 
opportunity  of  destroying  themselves.  Instances  have  occur- 
red, where  a  lot  of  eighteen  or  twenty,  purchased  together, 
have  made  a  determination  not  to  live;  and  in  a  short  time 
they  all  stabbed  themselves,  or  sunk  rapidly  under  an  insup- 
portable feeling  of  despondency.  The  people  of  Mosambique 
include  generally  all  those  of  Southern  Africa.  They  are  dis- 
tinguished by  their  diminutive  stature  and  feeble  limbs,  but 
still  more  by  the  color,  inclining  to  brown,  and  some  even  as 
light  as  mulattoes.  It  is  remarkable  that  vigor  and  muscu- 
larity in  a  negro  seem  intimately  connected  with  his  hue ;  the 
distinctive  characteristic  of  the  race  is  a  black  skin,  and  the 
more  dark  the  exterior  the  more  perfect  seems  the  person ; 
and  as  it  recedes  from  its  own  and  approaches  to  our  color, 
it  is  proportionably  imperfect. 

According  to  Mr.  Breckenridge,  who  visited  Brazil  in  1817 — 
18,  little  skill  is  displayed  by  the  inhabitants  in  the  ynechanic 
arts.  Although  they  have  the  finest  wood  in  the  world  for  cab- 
inet work,  their  furniture  is  very  badly  constructed,  and  the 
defect  is  supplied  by  a  profusion  of  gilding.  They  excel,  how- 
ever, in  making  ornaments  of  gold,  such  as  chains,  crosses, 
&c. ;  but  precious  stones  are  not  well  set  by  them ;  and  in 
general,  they  display  but  little  taste.  As  to  the  fine  arts,  they 
are  extremely  low.  The  king's  library,  of  sixty  thousand  vo- 
lumes, has  been  thrown  open  for  the  use  of  the  public ;  but 
within  this  capital  of  a  great  empire,  it  will  be  long  before 
there  will  be  any  thing  that  will  deserve  the  name  of  literature. 
The  rich  native  inhabitants  have  generally  other  ta.stes;  there 
is  nothing  to  call  forth  public  discussions  from  the  press ; 
there  is  yet,  in  fact,  no  public.  The  art  of  printing  itself,  which 
was  restricted  in  the  colonial  States,  is  not  yet  sufficiently 
spread  to  satisfy  the  demand,  small  as  it  is.  There  is  more 
printing  in  any  one  of  our  smallest  cities,  than  in  all  Brazil. 

Since  the  above  date,  the  Brazilians  are  said  to  have  maxJe 
considerable  improvement.  In  1824,  an  Academy  of  Fine 
Arts  was  opened  at  Rio,  under  the  auspices  of  the  emperor, 
at  whose  expense  it  is  chiefly  supported.  Connected  with 
this  academy  is  the  National   Museum,   which  contains  the 


142  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

BRAZIL. 


usual  objects  found  in  such  a  collection.  Several  works  of 
considerable  merit  by  Brazilian  authors  have  been  issued  from 
the  jiress  within  the  last  two  years.  In  Periodicals,  Ga- 
zettes, and  Newspapers,  they  arc  considerably  advanced.  Dr. 
Walsli  states  that  in  1S2S  there  were  131?  periodical  papers 
printed  in  the  whole  peninsula,  of  which  tv.enty-five  are  pub- 
lished in  Brazil;  viz.  fifteen  at  llio,  three  at  Baliia,  and  the 
rest  in  other  j)laces.  The  same  author  remarks,  that  (Jeofrraphy 
is  a  science  in  which  the  Brazilians  seem  most  deficient.  I 
never  saw  in  any  house,  says  he,  a  map  even  of  their  own 
cotuitry,  mucii  less  of  any  other;  and  sometimes  stranf^e  mis- 
takes arise.  When  it  was  announced,  in  the  Russian  cam- 
paign, tiiat  the  pUi|^ue  was  at  Bucharest,  a  circular  was  sent 
round,  announcing  that  all  vessels/rci??i  that  port  were  to  per- 
form a  (quarantine,  before  landinj:;  passengers  or  cargo  in  any 
part  f)f  Brazil.  It  was  explained  that  Bucharest  was  not  a 
port,  and  a  second  circular  was  issued,  correcting  tiie  first, 
by  stating,  that  any  vessel  coming  from  any  port  in  the  Medi- 
terranean^ must  perform  quarantine,  thereby  including  Spain, 
France,  and  If  *.ily  ! 

The  Brazilians  have  few  amusements,  although  they  are  a 
cheerful  peoj)ie.  They  have  a  taste  for  music,  and  are  fond 
of  dancing.  They  are  much  given  to  sedentary  games  of 
chance.  At  jiarticular  seasons,  they  engage  in  sports  of  vari- 
ous kinds,  during  which  they  deliver  themselves  up  to  unre- 
strained enjoyment. 

At  Lent,  observes  a  writer,  "the  streets  were  glowing  with 
green  and  yellow  hues,  as  vivid  and  general  as  tiie  purple  on 
the  hills.  Tliis  proceeded  from  vast  quantities  of  balls  of 
coloretl  wax,  which  filled  the  shops  and  large  baskets  before 
the  doors,  of  the  shape  and  size  of  eggs,  containing  pure  or 
scented  water.  I  could  not  conceive  what  they  were  intended 
for  till  I  l(!arned  l)y  experience  in  a  few  days.  The  Brazil- 
ians, like  ail  the  peopU;  of  a  tropical  climate  and  constitu- 
tion, when  the  moment  of  enjoyment  comes,  deliver  them.selves 
up  to  it  with  unrestrained  hilarity.  Tiiis  is  indulged  particu- 
Ityly  during  tlu;  intruso,  a  jul)ilee  wjiicli  pre'cedes  Lent,  and  the 
eggs  w<!re  tiie  principal  pastime.  A  friend  brought  me  to  pay 
a  visit,  and  th(!  fust  salutation  we  received  was  a  shower  of 
gre<'n  and  yellow  eggs  pelted  in  our  faces,  by  all  the  fair  fe- 
males of  the  family.  \Ve  were  then  invited  to  the  balconies  of 
the  windows,  and  saw  all  those  in  the  street,  filled  with  girls 
peeping  out  and  watching  the  approach  O:  '-ome  victim. 
When  any  a|)pearod  he  was  assailed  in  ah  oin  .ilions,  and 
ran  ofT  bedewed  with  water,  and  his  hat  and  o>.  at  covered 
with  green  and  yellow  egg  shells.  If  he  sto|)ped  for  a  moment 
when  he  saw  nobody,  and  took  off  his  hat  to  remove  {\u\  wet, 
some  laughing  girl,  |)erched  in  an  upper  window,  was  ready 
with  a  ba.sin  of  water,  which  came  on  him  in  a  sheet ;  if  he 
ran  to  the  opposite  si(le  to  avoid  it,  he  received  another  ;  if  ho 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  143 

ox    CHASE. 

took  the  middle  of  the  narrow  street,  he  probably  received  both 
together.  Below,  in  the  shops,  and  behind  hall  doors,  crowds 
of  men  stood  with  large  syringes  and  gamallas,  which  they 
ejected  in  a  continued  circuit  in  his  face  and  bosom,  so  that 
by  the  time  he  arrived  at  the  end  of  the  street  he  was  as  com- 
pletely drenched  as  if  he  were  dragged  through  the  bay. 
Should  he,  like  Swift's  passenger,  'fly,  invoke  the  gods,  then 
turning  stop'  to  scold,  he  was  sainted  by  clapping  of  hands 
and  shouts  of  laughter,  from  a  thousand  merry  faces  from  all 
the  windows  round  him.  Sometimes  we  saw  persons  thrown 
down  and  drenched  with  water  and  pelted  with  eggs  almost 
to  suffocation,  and  sometimes  whole  baskets  of  flour  were 
discharged  on  his  wet  body  till  he  became  crusted  all  over ; 
blacks  and  mulattoes  look  exceedingly  grotesque  when  or- 
namented in  this  way.  The  Brazilian  girls  are  naturally  pen- 
sive looking  and  retiring  ;  but  at  this  season  they  change  their 
character,  and  their  gravity  and  timidity  are  for  three  days 
lost  in  inextinguishable  merriment." 

McLuccock  in  his  "notes"  has  given  the  following  account 
of  the  Brazilian  amusement  of  an  o.v  chase  of  which  he  was 
witness— a  sport  not  less  hazardous,  and  perhaps  not  much 
less  refined,  than  the  pleasures  of  an  English  stag  hunt. 

"  After  a  ride  of  three  or  four  miles  on  a  large  open  plain, 
we  found  about  400  head  of  cattle.  We  rode  gently  round,  to 
bring  them  into  a  more  compact  body,  and  made  the  animal 
which  was  to  be  chased,  distinctly  known  to  every  individual 
of  the  party.  Our  settled  object  was  to  drive  him  to  the  house ; 
and  to  render  the  sport  as  complete  as  possible,  the  lasso*  was 
not  to  be  used  until  there  appeared  a  probability  that  he  would 
otherwise  escape.  Some  of  the  people  then  dashed  into  the 
midst  of  the  herd,  attentively  observing  the  selected  animal. 
One  half  of  the  oxen  were  thus  driven  at  once  from  the  spot, 

*  The  lasso  is  made  of  narrow  thongs,  platted  in  the  same  way  as  the 
bridles,  and  is  about  seven  or  eight  yards  long.  One  end  of  il  is  firmly  fixed 
to  the  hinder  part  of  the  saddle,  generally  on  the  right  side  :  at  the  oiher  side 
is  an  iron  ring,  about  two  inches  in  diameter.  The  horseman,  about  to  use 
the  lassn,  forms  a  sort  of  running  noose,  by  passing  a  portion  of  ii  through 
the  ring;  this  is  taken  in  the  right  hand,  so  as  that  the  ring  may  be  at  the 
opposite  part  of  the  circle ;  the  noose  is  then  swung  with  care  oyer  the  head, 
until  the  extreme  part  of  it,  including  the  ring,  acquires  a  considerable  mo- 
mentum. Tlie  instrument,  thus  prepared,  as  the  nran  advances  towards  his 
selected  victim,  is  in  due  time  discharged,  and  carries  off  the  remainder  of  the 
string,  which  before  hung  loosely  in  coils  on  the  fingers  of  the  left  hand,  and  sel- 
dom fails  to  entangle  the  beast.  A  well-trained  horse,  though  at  full  speed,  when 
the  lasso  is  thrown,  instantly  stops,  and  turning  round,  pulls  against  the  ani- 
mal which  is  now  attached  to  him.  The  balls  are  three  in  number,  round, 
and  nearly  three  inches  in  diameter.  The  external  part  of  each  is  a  sort  of 
purse,  made  of  hide,  rendered  pliable  by  soaking:  the  purse  is  filled  with 
sand,  and  the  aperture  drawn  close.  In  drying,  the  leather  contracts,  and 
becomes  as  hard  as  a  stone.  To  each  ball  a  strmg  is  attached,  three  or  four 
feet  long,  made  of  platted  thongs,  like  the  lasso,  and  the  three  strings  are 
united  by  a  knot,  at  two  feet  distance  from  the  balls.  This  maybe  called 
the  handle  of  the  instrument ;  for  the  person  using  it  takes  the  knot  in  his 
hand,  and  having  given  it  the  necessary  velocity,  by  swinging  it  over  his 
head  with  all  his  might,  throws  it  at  the  legs  of  the  horse  or  ox,  which 


144  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

BRAZIL. 

and  others,  whicli  chose  to  do  so,  were  permitted  to  follow 
without  molestation  ;  but,  wherever  the  victim  turned,  a  horse- 
man met  him,  and  stopped  his  career.  The  work  was  easy, 
until  the  remaininu:  frrouji  was  reduced  to  about  twenty,  which 
then  made  violent  attem|)ts  to  rejoin  their  comrades,  and 
fiercely  attacked  the  huntsman  who  intercepted  them.  In  a 
short  time,  four  of  them  beinufhard  pressed,  plunf!:ed  into  some 
watery  ground  about  two  miles  from  the  house,  and  among 
them  was  the  object  of  the  chase.  When  driven  from  the 
water,  this  small  number  were  more  harassed  than  before, 
and  perceivin^their  danger,  exerted  themselves  with  redoubled 
violence.  Sometimes  we  were  obliged  to  ride  hard  ;  and  great 
coolness  and  address  were  necessary  to  prevent  their  escape 
behind  us,  and  into  a  wood  which  we  were  now  approaching. 
In  this  last  respect,  our  elibrt.s  were  vain ;  they  gained  this 
refuge,  and  we  could  no  longer  act  in  concert.  The  wood 
was  full  of  thick  bushes  of  myrtle,  and  many  trees  spread  llieir 
arms  iiorizontally  seven  or  eight  feet  from  the  giound.  It  was 
a  matter  of  high  gratification,  as  well  as  wonder,  to  observe 
how  our  huntsmen  rounded  the  bushes,  and  bent  under  the 
branches,  so  as  sometimes  to  hang  on  the  sides  of  their  horses. 
Though  unable  to  follow,  I  soon  encountered  our  chief,  who 
had  made  an  unsuccessful  cast  with  his  lasso,  and  was  disen- 
tangling it  from  the  branches  of  a  tree.  I  shall  never  forget 
the  ardor  and  rapidity  with  which  he  afterwards  darted  and 
wheeled  among  the  trees,  nor  lose  the  conviction  fixed  upon 
my  mind,  what  execution  such  men,  so  trained,  must  be  ca- 
pable of  in  a  country  like  this.  My  musings  were  soon  inter- 
rupted by  reaching  the  beach,  and  seeing  at  a  distance  our 
young  hero,  with  the  ox  securely  attached  to  his  horse  by  the 
lasso,  and  leading  the  captive  towards  the  house.  The  instru- 
ment had  gone  round  his  horns,  and  was  fixed  close  to  the 
crown  of  his  head.  The  animal  thus  entangled  advanced 
with  the  most  malicious  vexation,  and  made  many  ferocious 
efiorts  to  gore  the  horse,  which  had  before  pursuetl,  and  now 
led  him;  but  the  wary  creature,  which  had  often  before  been 
yoked  to  an  unnatural  and  violent  mate,  kept  his  eye  upon 
the  ox,  and  pulU-d  at  the  lusso  so  as  to  keep  it  always  on  the 
stretch,  and  himself  two  springs  in  advance.  In  his  precau- 
tion, he  was  greatly  assisted  by  his  rider,  who,  with  equal 
care,  watched  the  maddening  spirit  of  the  beast,  and  gave 
signals  to  the  horse,  ('onvinced,  at  length,  that  his  attempts 
to  gore  his  leader  were  vain,  the  ox  became  sullen,  and  was 
partly  dragged  onward.  While  he  was  in  this  mood,  the  horse 
passed  to  the  right  of  a  detached  bush,  and  the  ox,  by  a  sud- 

he  wishes  to  aerurc  Iti  thiir  pro^TcHH  \U>:  tiall,'*  po  to  the  iiliiioRt  distance 
wliirh  llic  i.trinK8  will  iillow.  nn<l  rtucliiiiK  ili<r  Icf,',  gentrnily  i)aH.s  round  it; 
and  ihou(;li  pcrhapB  only  slightly  entangling  the  animal,  BufTicicntly  impede 
itH  Higlii. 

TIk:  cuKtorn  wns  drrived  from  the  Maraocnto,  nnd  other  Indian  tril)cs,  who 
uswl  the  hixso  and  balls  with  ^rfai  cilfcl  agaiiibl  .Mcndonca,  when  lie  landed 
unii  toundcd  the  city  of  Buenod  Ayres. 


Brazillian  Hunters. 


Throwing  the  Lasso.         P.  143. 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  145 

HORSES. 


den  spring,  got  nearly  abreast  with  liim  on  tiie  left;  thus,  the 
lo,sso  was  brought  over  his  back,  and  he  was  enabled  to  em- 
ploy his  utmost  might  to  draw  the  horse  round  the  bush;  the 
horse  also  used  alfhis  power  to  counteract  this  manoeuvre; 
and  tlius  the  great  strength  of  the  lasso  was  proved.  ,B,y  this 
time,  the  whole  party  was  again  collected,  and  another  lasso 
applied  to  assist  in  conducting  the  captive,  which,  seemingly 
conscious  that  he  was  completely  subdued,  walked  along  quiet- 
ly. A  boat  had  just  reached  the  beach,  and  the  people  were 
still  on  board,  when  the  treacherous  animal,  as  soon  as  he 
came  near  enough,  made  an  unexpected  attack,  and  caused 
them  to  tumble,  one  over  another,  into  the  water,  to  the  great 
amazement  of  the  spectators. 

Returning  to  the  hut,  after  a  chase  of  three  hours,  milk  and 
fruit  were  served  to  us  in  abundance,  while  the  beast  was  taken 
from  his  former  bondage,  and  tied  to  a  post,  where  I  found  him 
bellowing  with  madness,  and  still  furiously  striving  to  release 
himself  A  man  now  came  forward  with  an  instrument,  called 
afacaw*  somewhat  resembling  both  a  large  carving-knife  and 
a  short  sword;  and  warning  every  one  to  be  on  his  guard, 
passed  near  the  heels  of  the  ox,  and  endeavored,  by  a  back- 
handed stroke,  to  hough  him.  The  attempt  was  clumsily  made, 
and  the  beast',  though  wounded,  was  not  disabled.  Another 
took  the  instrument,'' and  used  it  with  greater  effect;  when  the 
ox  gave  a  desperate  kick  at  the  operatorj'^nd  snapping  the 
tendon,  fell  on  his  iiaunches.  A  third  then  drew  a  sharp 
knife  across  his  throat ;  blood  copiously  followed  ;  and  with  a 
deep  bellow,  expressive  of  rage  and  agony,  he  yielded  up  his 
life.  Immediately  the  people  set  about  skinning  the  beast,  and 
preparing  a  part  of  him  for  dinner.  The  former  operation 
was  performed  in  a  workmanlike  manner;  and  the  skin,  as 
it  was  taken  off.  being  carefully  stretched  upon  the  ground, 
preserved  the  fiesli  from  blood  and  dirt.  During  this  process, 
fires  had  been  kindled,  and  had  burned  down  to  clear  embers. 
Slices  of  flesh  were  then  cut  ofl^  from  the  ribs,  as  the  choicest 
.part,  for  the  master  and  his  guests,  and  roasted  at  a  fire  apart ; 
afterwards  the  attendants  helped  themselves  as  they  pleased', 
and  cooked  their  portion  after  their  own  modes. 

Horses  are  trained  for  the  exercises  ofthefield^  by  fastening 
a  dry  hide  to  the  back  part  of  the  saddle,  and  allowing  it  to 
trail  on  the  ground.  As  the  horse  moves,  the  hide  rattles,  and 
the  noise  alarms  him  ;  he  attempts  to  fly.  When  it  beats  against 
his  heels,  and  he  kicks  at  it  violently ;  but  soon  convinced 
that  all  his  alarm  and  rage  are  fruitless,  he  learns  to  be  pa- 
tient and  quiet.  In  this  state  a  person  mounts,  and  compels 
him  to  move  forward;  at  first  gently,  aftervN'ards  at  an  in- 
creased pace.  He  begins  with  trampling  upon  the  hide;  but 
this  incommodes  him,  perhaps  almost  throws  him  down  back- 

♦  Faca  is  the  Portuguese  word  for  knife  of  any  kind. 
13 


146  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 


BRAZIL. 


wards;  he  then  sets  down  his  feet  •)iiore  carefully  and  safely. 
Tlie  contrivance  induces  him  also  to  \toc])  an  eye  turned  on 
the  oliject  behind  r  while  the  rider  takes  him  over  roniih  or 
bopjiiy  ^ironnd,  ohli^inp;  him  at  tlie  same  time  to  look  forward, 
and  mark  where  he  is  ;?ointz;.  Thus  he  forms  a  habit  of  quick- 
ly di';cernint,'  danuer.  and  nvoidinir  it.  from  whatever  quarter 
it  may  come.  80  much  are  the  Brazilian  hoises  in  .t!:(>neral 
fenced  against  alarms,  that  I  hardly  ever  met  with  one  of  the 
description  whicnwe  call  skittish.* 

I^fDcral.f  arc  ar.mnii  the  mrifit  ])nrnpniifi  and  crnudy  displays  of 
the  people.  Tliosii  of  the  l)etter  class  are  always  conducted 
by  nin;ht.  by  the  lieht  of  large  wax  tapers,  the  size  of  flam- 
beaux. These  are  borne  not  only  by  the  friends  of  the  de- 
ceased, but  by  any  passing'  strani,fer  of  respt^clabje  appearance. 
For  this  purpose,  one  of  the  conductors  j^enerally  stands  at  the 
door  of  the  house  in  which  the  corpse  lies  and  invites  the  pas- 
senirers  to  come  in  and  take  n  taper.  Every  week,  at  least.  I 
have  been  in  this  v.ay  arrested,  as  I  passed  by;  and  as  it  is 
deemed  not  f;ood  maimers  to  refuse,  1  latterly  learned  to  pass 
over  the  other  side,  to  avoid  tiie  necessity  of  either  complyinj;; 
or  declining. 

The  coffin  is  carried  before,  and  the  taper-bearers  follow  in 
a  Ions;  procession  b<^hind,  to  the  church,  where  the  funeral  ser- 
vice is  read.  It  i#^here  laid  on  a  cnlnfalk,  or  pedestal,  which 
stands  for  that  purpose  in  the  middle  of  every  aisle  ;  priests  at- 
tend, who  chant  the  funerrd  service,  accompanied  hy  the  or- 
j>;an  ;  and  when  this  is  concluded,  either  the  floorinij  of  the 
church  is  raised,  and  the  bod j- deposited  l)eneath,or  itis  brouf,dit 
to  the  cloi.'-.ters,  wlii're  m  small  rec(>ptacle,  like  an  oven,  is  open- 
ed to  receive  it.  Before  it  is  «o  depo.sited,  the  lid  of  the  coffin 
is  raised,  and  a  quantity  of  quick-lime  thrown  in  ;  and  when 
it  IS  decomposed  by  this  proL-ess,  the  bones  are  shut  in  with  a 
]f<ck  and  key.  Notwithstaiidinsr  their  presi^-vation  of  the 
bones  of  tlw^  dead,  the  people  are  rem:irl;al)!y  Careless  of  the 
remains  of  their  deceased  friends.  Their  only  concern  is, 
that  they  shall  receive  the  last  rites  of  their  church,  which  they 
consider  iuflispensable  to  the  wt^lfare  of  their  souls.  Few 
or  no  relations  are  present  at  the  interment;  and  there  is  a 
p^reat  indifference,  amountinfj  to  levity,  not  onl}'  anionic  the 
acquaintance,  who  attend  the  fimeral,  but  amon^  the  clergy 
themselves. 

On  some  occasions  of  the  funernls  of  infants,  the  cofHn  is  an 
elegant  em!)roidererl  trunk,  in  which  the  child  lies  envelojied 
in  artificial  flowers;  and  when  placed  on  the  catafalk,  it  looks 
like  a  work-l)OX  on  a  ladies'  dressino;  table.  The  cloisters 
where  they  are  deposited  are  remarkably  dry  and  neat,  kept 
always  fresh  with  paint  and  whitewash,  and  generally  in  a 
pretty  garden  embellished  with  i)arterres  and  aromatic  llower- 

•  Luccock's  Notes,  pp.  224-7. 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  147 

GOLrU  AND  DIAMONDS. 

ing  shrubs;  so  that  the  charnel-bouse  is  divested  of  every 
thing-  offensive  or  even  dismal,  and  redolent  with  incense  and 
perfumes. 

The  gayety  of  this  is  strongly  contrasted  with  the  funerals 
of  negroes.  Their  nailed  bodies  are  met  with  every  day, 
thrown  into  an  old  mat,-  suspended  on  a  pole  between  two 
others,  their  arms  and  legs  often  hanging  down  and  trailing 
on  tlie  ground.  They  are  brought  in  this  way  to  the  large 
cemetery  attached  to  the  Miserecordia  Hospital,  and  here  they 
are  thrown  into  a  large  trench,  where  I  have  seen  ten  or 
twelve  bodies  lying  in  a  heap,  without  any  covering  of  earth 
yet  thrown  over  them. 

V/heu  the  person  is  deposited  under  the  flooring  of  the 
church,  a  very  offensive  spectacle  is  often  exhibited.  The 
gi-ound  is  so  crammed  that  it  is  impossible  to  fi^id  room,  and 
the  aperture  made  is  not  sufficient  to  contain  it;  so  that  when 
the  naked  corpse  is  laid  down,  part  of  it  is  often  seen  lising 
above  the  ground.  A  man  then  Lakes  a  rammer,  and  delibe- 
rately pounds  the  body  into  a  fiat  mass  till  it  is  accommodated 
to  its  situation;  while  all  the  people  look  on  with  the  most  per- 
fect indifference.  It  is  true,  that  it  is  divested  of  all  feeling,  as 
a  B)-azilian  sensibly  remarked  to  me  when  I  mentioned  the 
circumstance,  and  deserves  to  be  held  in  no  more  estimation 
than  the  clay  with  which  it  is  about  to  incoi'porate.  But  cer- 
tainly the  spectacle  is  very  revolting,  and  the  odor  dangerous- 
ly offensive  ;  .^nd  many  people  are  compelled  to  leave  the 
church  from  the  sense  of  sickness.  In  some  churches,  as  I 
have  before  mentioned,  the  toes  and  foreheads  protrude  above 
the  ground. 

Brazil  has  lonsr  been  celebrated  for  its  mines  of  gold,  and  for 
its  diamonds.  The  gold  is  generally  found  in  small  grains, 
which  are  mixed  with  pebbles  and  gravel.  The  gravel  is  ta- 
ken up  in  bowls,  and  is  washed  by  hand.  A  fifth  part  of  all  the 
gold  procured,  belongs  to  the  emperor.  The  quantity  annu- 
ally obtained  is  estimated  at  about  5.000,000.  The  principal 
diamond  district  is  that  of  Serro  de  Frio,  and  the  diamond 
works  near  Tejuco,  a  town  containing  about  6,000  inhabitants. 

The  hiring  of  negroes  to  the  diamond  works,  is  the  favorite 
occupation  of  all  ranks  in  Tejuco;  rich  and  poor  endeavor 
to  engage  in  it,  to  as  great  an  extent  as  their  property  will  al- 
low. The  pay  of  the  slaves  is  trifling,  compared  with  the  risk, 
their  labor  being  heavy,  their  maintenance  poor,  and  their 
treatment  harsh ;  there  must,  therefore,  be  some  temptation 
not  openly  seen,  yet  as  well  known  as  light  from  darkness. 
Numbers  of  persons  are  thus  induced  to  reside  in  Tejuco  un- 
der various  pretexts,  but  with  no  other  real  view  than  to  get 
their  negroes  into  the  service,  and  to  live  idly  on  their  wages, 
and  on  what  they  conceal  or  pick  up.  Thus,  all  fatten  upon 
the  pasture,  except  those  in  the  extreme  of  indigence,  and 
others,  who,  from  the  neglect  of  economy,  are  always  poor. 


148  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

BRAZIL. 


The  principal  establishment  is  situated  on  the  river  Jijiton- 
honha,  a  tributary  of  the  Rio  Grande.  At  Mandanga,  the 
river  is  from  tlwoe  to  nine  feet  deep,  and  about  as  bioad  as  the 
river  Tliamos  at  Wiiidstjr.  At  th<>  tiiii''  Mr.  Mawe  visited  the 
works,  they  were  workin','  at  a  curve  of  tiie  river,  from  which 
the  current  had  been  diverted  by  means  of  a  canal.  The  deep- 
er parts  of  the  channel  were  laid  dry  by  means  of  chain  pumps 
worked  by  a  water-wheel,  and  the  cascdUm  was  then  removed 
by  means  of  machinery  ; — a  savinjz;  of  lal)or  rarely  tliou;,dit  of 
in  a  land  were  that  labor  is  performed  by  negroes,  and  which 
had  only  recently  been  introduced  by  Dr.  Camara.  The  stra- 
tum of  Cdscdl/ia  consists  of  similar  materials  to  that  found  in 
tlie  fjold  district.  In  many  parts,  on  tht>  marp;in  of  the  river, 
are  larcre  conG;lomerate  masses  of  round  pebbles  ornamented 
by  oxyde  of  iron,  which  sometimes  envelope  go\d  and  dia- 
monds. Durini^  the  drv  season,  sufficient  ctisrctUio  is  duir  up 
to  occupy  all  the  hands  employ<>d  duiinij  the  rainy  months. 
The  metliod  of  washinfj  the  rascalho,  is  thus  described  : — 

"A  shed  is  erected  in  the  form  of  a  paralI<-loa;ram,  twenty- 
five  or  thirty  yards  lou'^,  and  al)out  liflt^en  wi(I(>.  consistinp;  of 
upriLrht  posts,  which  support  a  roof  thatched  with  loni:  .L!;rass. 
Down  the  middle  of  the  area  of  this  shed,  a  current  (»f  water 
is  conveyed  throu<rh  a  canal  covered  with  stron<»;  planks,  on 
which  the  roftralfm  is  laid  two  fir  thnn^  feet  thick.  On  the 
other  side  of  the  area  is  a  fiooriufr  of  |)lanks,  from  four  to  five 
yards  lone;,  imbedded  in  clay,  extendincj  the;  whoh?  Ien;i;th  of 
the  shed,  and  havint'  a  slope  from  the  canal,  of  three  or  foiu' 
inches  to  a  yard.  This  lloorin<r  is  divided  into  about  twenty 
compartments  or  troii'^hs,  each  abf)ut  three  feet  wide,  by  means 
of  planks  placed  on  the  edire.  The  upper  ends  of  all  these 
troughs,  (here  called  canoes,)  communicate  with  the  canal,  and 
are  so  formed,  that  water  is  aduiilted  into  tiir'ni  between  two 
planks  tliat  are  about  an  inch  sf|iarat(\  'I"lirout;h  this  o|)en- 
inp  the  current  falls  al)out  six  inches  into  the  trou'.;h,  and  may 
be  directed  into  anj'  part  of  it,  or  stopped  at  pleasure,  by  means 
of  a  small  quantity  of  clay.  Aloiiii  the  Iow<<r  ends  of  the 
trough,  a  small  cliannel  is  (lug  to  carry  ofTtlM-  water.  On  the 
heap  of  rascdlho,  at  e(jual  distances,  are  placed  three  hi^rh 
chairs  for  the  officers  or  overseers.  After  they  are  seated, 
the  negroes  enter  the  trouiihs,  each  provided  with  a  rake  with 
a  short  handle,  willi  wiiich  he  rakes  into  the  trough  abf)ut  fifty 
or  eighty  pounds  of  cascalho.  'I"he  water  being  then  let  in 
upon  it.  th»!  cascalho  is  spread  abioad,  and  continually  raked 
up  to  the  head  of  the  trough,  so  as  to  be  kept  in  constant  mo- 
tion. This  o|)(M-ation  is  performc-d  for  the  space  of  a  rpiarter 
of  an  hour;  till  the  water  begins  to  run  clearer,  having  wash- 
ed the  earthy  particles  away.  The  gravel-like  matter  is  raked 
up  to  the  end  of  the  trough  ;  the  larger  stones  are  thrown 
out,  and  afterwards  those  of  inferior  size;  then  the  whole  is 
examineij  with  great  care  for  diamonds.  When  a  negro  finds 
one,  he  immediately  stands  upright,  and  claps  his  hand,  then 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  149 


DIAMOND  WASHING. 


extends  them,  holding  the  gem  between  his  fore  finger  and 
thumb.  An  overseer  receives  it  from  him,  and  deposites  it  in  a 
bowl  suspended  from  the  centre  of  the  structure  half  full  of 
water.  In  this  vessel  all  the  diamonds  found  in  the  course  of 
the  dt)v  are  placed,  and  at  the  close  of  the  work  are  taken  out 
and  delivered  to  the  principal  officer,  who,  after  they  have 
been  weighed,  registers  the  particulars. 

"  When  a  nea:ro  is  so  fortunate  as  to  find  a  diamond  of  the 
weight  of  an  octara  (17^^  carats.)  much  ceremony  takes  place  ; 
he  is  crowned  with  a  wreath  of  flowers,  and  carried  in  proces- 
sion to  the  administrator,  who  gives  him  his  freedom  by  pay- 
ing his  owner  for  it.  He  also  receives  a  present  of  new  clothes, 
and  is  permitted  to  work  on  his  own  account.  When  a  stone 
of  eight  or  ten  carats  is  found,  the  negro  receives  two  new 
shirts^,  a  complete  new  suit,  a  hat,  and  a  handsome  knife.  For 
•smaller  stones  of  trivial  amount,  proportionate  premiums  are 


given. 


"  Many  precautions  are  taken  to  prevent  the  negroes  from 
.embezzling  diamonds.  Although  they  work  in  a  bent  position, 
and  consequently  never  know  whether  the  overseers  are 
watching  them  or  not,  yet,  it  is  easy  for  them  to  omit  gathering 
any  which  they  see,  and  to  place  them  in  a  corner  of  the  trough, 
for  the  purpose  of  secreting  them  at  leisure  hours;  to  prevent 
which,  they  are  frequently  changed  while  the  operation  is  go- 
ing on.  A  word  of  command  being  given  by  the  overseers, 
they  instantly  move  into  each  other's  troughs,  so  that  no  op- 
portunity of  collusion  can  take  place.  If  a  negro  be  suspected 
of  having  swallowed  a  diamond,  he  is;  confined  in  a  strong 
^'oom  until  the  fact  can  be  ascertained.  Formerly,  the  punish- 
ment inflicted  on  a  negro  for  smuggling  diamonds,  was  con- 
fiscation of  his  person  to  the  state';  bul  it  being  thought  too 
hard  that  the  owner  should  suffer  for  the  offence  of  his  servant, 
the  penalty  has  been  commuted  for  personal  imprisonment  and 
'Ctiastisement.  This  is  a  much  lighter  punishment  than  that 
which  their  owners  or  any  white  man  would  suffer  for  a  simi- 
lar ofil-nce." 

After  spending  several  days  at  Mandanga,  Mr.  Mawe  was 
conducted  to  the  diamond  works  at  Monteiro,  two  miles  up 
•the  riv^er,  and,  at  the  distance  of  a  league  further,  to  the  gold- 
mines of  Carrapatos.  Here,  he  was  sliown  a  heap  of  cascal- 
ho,  estimated  to  be  worth  10,000/.  In  removing  this  heap  from 
the  bed  of  the  river,  400  negroes  had  been  employed  three 
months;  and  to  wash  it,  would  occupy  100  men  for  three 
months  more  ;  the  expense  of  both  operations  amounting  to 
about  1500/.  While  Mr.  Mawe  w^as  here,  six  negroes,  in  the 
course  of  four  hours,  obtained  from  about  a  ton  of  cascalho, 
nearly  twenty  ounces  troy-weight  of  gold.  This  was  esteem- 
ed a  very  rich  place,  and  such  circumstances  are  of  rare  oc- 
currence. 

Several  native  Indian  tribes  arc  scattered  over  the  remote 
13* 


150  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

BRAZIL. 

parts  of  Brazil,  and  are  said  to  be  ferocious  and  murderous 
The  most  powerful  and  distinguished  of  these  tribes  are  tht 
Guaycurus,  Piirien,  and  Jlntucndops-.  Tho  first  of  these  are 
the  most  warlike  and  savai^e;  the  iart,  th(>ii<j;h  ft  rocious,  and 
according  to  some  authorities  cannibal,  are  the  most  singular. 
The  name  Botucndo  was  given  them  by  the  Portuguese,  on 
account  of  the  large  pieces  of  wood,  which  they  wear  inserted 
in  each  ear,  and  the  under  lip.  Some  of  tiiese  plugs  which 
are  worn  in  the  mouth  aie  four  inches  in  diameter.  The  op- 
eration of  inserting  it.  is  usually  performed  upon  children,  when 
they  are  seven  or  eight  years  old.  For  this  ))urpose  the 
lobes  of  the  ears  and  the  lower  lip  are  stretch(>(i  ;  the  holes 
are  then  made  with  a  sharp  pointed  stick  or  skewer,  ;ind 
very  small  pieces  of  wood  are  at  lirst  inserted,  which  after- 
wards give  place  to  larger  and  larger,  till  the  desired  elonga- 
tion is  jierfected.  The  wood  used  is  that  of  the  b(/rri<rt«io, 
or  wool-tree,  which  is  lighter  than  cork,  and,  when  can-fully 
dried  before  the  tire,  becomes  very  white.  Extremely  light, 
however,  as  these  plugs  are,  they  weigh  down  tJK*  lip  in  old 
persons  ;  in  younger  ones,  they  give  it  a  horizontal  dirtction, 
or  a  little  raised,  the  li[)  itself  apj^caring  onl}'  like  a  thin  ring 
encircling  the  botoque.  The.se  plug3  may  be  removed  at 
pleasure;  the  lip  then  falls,  and  shows  the  lower  teeth  through 
the  hole.  The  constant  pressure  and  friction  of  the  bofoqtie, 
however,  soon  dis|)laces  the  teeth  of  the  undrr-jaw,  and  be- 
tween twenty  and  tliirty,  the  Botucudo  has  frecpaently  none 
to  show.  Their  national  ornament  is,  moreover,  extremely 
troublesome  at  meals,  and  render.s  the  opeiation  of  eating,  a 
spectacle  not  a  little  disgusting. 

The  other  ori»ainents  of  the  Uotiicuiloes  ai  e,  necklaces  made 
t)f  hard  berries  or  the  teetii  of  animals,  which  are  worn  chiefly 
by  the  women,  and  diadems  or  bunches  of  feathers,  which 
sometimes  distinguish  their  chiefs.  They  also  occasionally 
paint  their  bodies  black,  and  their  faces  red  ;  it  is  not  stated 
whether  this  is  their  full  dress,  or  their  military  costume,  but 
it  heightens  the  ffirourlic  effect  of  their  appearance.  Hourtd 
the  neck,  every  IJotncudo  wears,  attached  to  a  strong  cord, 
his  most  |)recious  jewel,  a  knife.  Unlike  the  indigenous  tribes 
of  Peru  and  Mexico,  they  appear  to  have  no  notion  of  any  or- 
namental arts  or  manufactures.  Indolence  is  a  predominant 
trait  in  their  character,  notwithstanding  that  they  are  capable 
*)f  so  extraordinary  a  degree  of  physical  exertion  ;  but  their 
indolence  does  not  degenerate  into  torpor,  for,  adds  Prince 
Maximilian,  they  are  gay,  facetious,  and  ready  to  converse. 
Their  hilts  and  utensils  resemble  those  of  the  Purie.s,  except 
that  the  I'otncudoes  dider  from  them,  as  wfll  as  from  the 
greater  part  of  the  South  American  tribes,  in  not  sleeping  in 
nets  or  hammocks,  but  on  the  ground,  the  bark  of  trees  sup- 
plying them  with  a  rude  bed.  They  have  no  canoes,  nor  any 
notion  of  navigation  ;  but  Southey  is  mistaken  in  representing 
that  they  cannot  swim. 


Universal  traveller.  i5l 


PERU. 


3.  PERU. 

Peru  lies  south  of  Colombia  and  Brazil,  having  an  area  of 
230,000  square  miles,  and  a  population  of  1,600,000.  These  are 
divided  into  Creoles,  or  Spanish  Americans,  Mestizoes,  Euro- 
pean Spaniards,  Negroes,  Mulattoes,  and  native  Indians. 

The  Creoles,  or  Spanish  Amerwans,    are  divided  into  two 
classes  ;  the  first  are  nobles,  vi^ho  are  descended  from  the  con- 
querors ;  the  second,  are  descended  from  the  officers  of  th6 
government  and  private  adventurers,  who  have  come  to  the 
countiy  since  the  conquest.     Among  the  former  are  Counts, 
Marquises,  Mayorasgos  or  Barons,  and  Knights  of  different 
military  orders,  and  these  of  course  hold  the  first  rank  in  soci- 
ety.    They  are  all  possessed  of  independent  fortunes,  which 
they  inherit  fi-om  their  ancestors.     The  education  of  both  class- 
es is  generally  superior  to  that  of  their  fathers,  but  the  educa- 
tion of  the  nobles  is  very  irregular.     The  oldest  sons  succeed 
to  the  title  and  estate,  and  the  younger  sons  are  Curas  and 
canons,  filling  the  various  stations  in  the  army  and  the  church. 
For  these  stations  more  learning  is  requisite,  and  they  are  gen- 
erally much  better  educated  than  their  older  brothers.     The 
sons  of  this  class  ordhiarily  pursue  the  profession  of  their  fa- 
thers ;  they  are  lawyers,  clergymen,  Mineros,  or  proprietor 
of  mines,  and  owners  of  Haciendas,  or  large  plantations  and 
establishments  for  cultivating  Coca,  (the   tobacco  of  the  In- 
dians,) and  making  wine,  brandy,  &c.,  and  on  which  there  are 
several  Indian  families  attached  to  the  soil,  and  to  the  personal 
Service  of  the  landlord. 

The  profession  of  the  Law  is  considered  the  most  honorable, 
and  is  the  most  lucrative.  The  lawyers  of  Peru  amass  large 
fortunes  in  a  few  years'  practice,  and  the  profession  is  a  step- 
ping ston.'  to  public  office.  The  clergy  in  this  countiy  some- 
times practice  the  law,  it  forming  a  part  of  their  education  ;  and 
both  lawyers  and  clergymen  are  well  acquainted  with  the  pro- 
fession. The  lawyers  display  great  ability  in  drafting  memo- 
rials or  pleadings,  and  eloquence  in  speaking  before  the  judi- 
cial tribunals.  "The  want  of  printing  deprives  the  world  of 
their  speechesj  some  of  which  are  in  no  wise  inferior  to  those 
of  the  most  celebrated  lawyers  of  France.  In  their  writing 
and  speaking,- they  adopt  the  French  manner,  as  they  are  bet- 
ter acquainted  with  the  literature  of  that  country. 

The  Creoles  are  possessed  of  an  independent  spirit ;  and  they 
hate  and  despise  the  Spaniards :  they  form  by  far  the  most  en- 
lightened portion  of  the  community.  Their  master  passions 
are  the  love  of  knowledge,  and  a  luxurious  and  splendid  mode 
of  life,  and  they  spare  no  pains  to  furnish  themselves  with 
books,  sumptuous  furniture,  and  articles  of  luxury.    And  there- 


152  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

PERO. 

fore,  there  is  carried  to  Peru  the  most  splendid  furniture  of 
every  kind,  from  liie  first  rate  workshops  of  France,  Enijland, 
Germany,  and  Italy.  Gold  and  silver  areemployed  profiHi'ly 
in  filtin;jf  out  the  trappinij;s  of  their  horse  equipa;j;e,  and  in  fur- 
nishiuL;  their  houses  ;  the  vessels  in  the  most  common  use,  of 
the  kitchen  and  bodcinimber,  beinir  made  of  silver.  Their 
houses  contain  a  drawing-room  and  diniiiij-room,  furnished 
with  clocks,  chandeliers,  lookins-trlasses,  etc.  of  which  they 
are  very  f(»nd,  and  a  room  for  a  library.  The  drawinir-rooms 
of  the  nobility  are  covered  with  velvet,  embroidered  with  f^old; 
they  have  tiibles  of  solid  silver,  and  Uicir  window  curtains, 
which  are  of  velvet,  are  frin<j;ed  v.ith  liold  lace.  Their  tables 
^re  covered  with  a  prcat  profusion  of  dishes,  cooked  after  the 
French  and  Spanish  mode.  Thf^y  eat  abundance  of  sweet- 
meats, made  from  the  line  fruits  of  the  country.  At  the  tables 
of  the  nobility,  there  are  always  a  fj;reat  number  of  j,'U(*sts  call- 
ed "n)/H/?ie>/.va/p.s-."  This  mode  of  life,  which  is  owin;:;  to  the 
generous  and  hos|)itable  character  of  the  Creoles,  who  are  born 
to  independent  fortunes,  often  dejjenerates  into  wasteful  pro- 
digality and  dissipation.  Thi'y  are  Inveterate  gamblers,  win- 
ning and  losinf^  a  moderate  fortune  in  a  single  night.  In  the 
interior  cities,  where  there  are  no  theatres  or  public  places  of 
amusement,  to  which  the  wealthy  and  idle  can  resoit  to  kill 
time,  they  fly  to  the  card  table  to  rid  themselves  of  ennui,  that 
tormenting  foe  to  the  children  of  fortune  in  the  South.  Cards 
are  the  usual  instruments  of  this  vicious  sport,  which  Jias  aj 
ways  been  encouraged  by  the  Spanish  government,  as  thejr 
enjoyed  tlie  monopoly  of  their  sale. 

The  ladies  of  Pern  drrss  in  a  very  sphnidid  manner,  wear 
ing  the  most  tine  cambiics  and  laces  of  l^'landers,  and  otlie) 
rich  studs  of  Europe ;  their  wardrobes  are  filled  with  these 
costly  articles.  Tlicy  are  i)rofuse  in  the  use  of  perl'umery, 
which  is  maiiCifactured  in  great  delicacy  and  perfection  by  the 
nuns.  But  what  i(iinci)ially  attracts  their  attention  is  jewelry 
The  European  ladies  when  they  arrive  here,  pres(Mit  a  singu- 
lar contrast  to  the  ladies  of  the  countiy.  Thd'eruvian  ladies 
cover  tlifuiselves  wuth  jewels  ;  every  lady  generally  wears  two 
thousand  dollars  worth,  at  least,  such  as  rings,  pearl  necklaces, 
combs  studded  with  brilliants,  fmger  rings  of  gold  and  bril- 
liants, and  rosaries  of  pearls  and  diamonds.  This  rendeis  the 
difference  veiy  striking,  and  the  I'eruvians  call  the  European 
ladies  "  Chapelona  laluuada,^^ — copper  women. 

Tfif  Mfslizoflu  arc  drsremhivla  nf  -irhitrs  and  Imfimis,  and 
forn)  the  third  class  in  Peru.  They  are  generally  possessed  of 
moderate  fortunes  ;  they  carry  on  the  internal  commerce  of  the 
country,  and  are  the  superintendents  of  the  great  jiosscssions 
of  the  men  of  wealth.  Their  education  is  generally  limited  to 
reading  and  writing,  although  they  have  a  thirst  for  knowledge, 
and  are  anxious  to  obtain  a  liberal  education.     They  are  dis- 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  158 


CHOLOS. — ^ULL-BA  (TING. 


tinguished  for  the  vivacity  of  their  intellect,  and  those  few  who 
are  we}!  educated,  are  superior  to  all  the  otli-er  classes.  They 
are  more  attached  to  the  Creoles  than  to  the  Europeans,  and 
differ  very  little  from  them  ;  and  althouc^h  their  education  is  ir- 
regular, they  supply  the  deficiency  by  the  quickness  of  their 
parts.  Their  dress  is  very  similar  to  that  of  the  Creoles  or 
(Spaniards. 

The  Cholos  are  the  descendants  of  Mestizoes  and  the  In- 
dians. They  have  little  or  no  education,  and  can  scarcely 
spealv  the  Spanish  language.  Their  complexion  is  darker  than 
that  of  either  of  the  preceding  classes,  and  more  agreeable 
and  expressive;  with  small  but  piercing  black  eyes,  and  small 
beard.  Their  dress  is  a  short  sailor  jacket  or  roundabout,  and 
breeches  without  stockings;  and  with  a  square  piece  of  cloth 
like  a  shawl,  worn  over  the  shoulders,  crossed  on  the  breast, 
and  one  end  thrown  over  the  left  shoulder.  The  women  dress 
after  the  fash4on  of  the,  Creole  ladies,  in  fine  colored  woollens, 
instead  of  silks,  without  bonnets,  covering  their  heads  with 
shawls.  The  different  ranks  of  society  in  this  country  may  al- 
ways be  known  by  their  dress.  The  Cholo  women  are  the 
chamber  maids  and  nurses  of  the  wealthy  Creoles  and  Span- 
iards. The  men  are  generally  the  mechanics  of  the  country, 
understanding  the  art  of  dying,  and  of  making  gold  and  silver 
leaf,  which  are  articles  of  great  profit  and  demand.  They 
are  miners,  and  are  equally  skilful  in  this  as  in  every  other  de- 
partment of  industry.  - 

The  Cholos  are  very  fond  of  gymnastic  exercises,  and  bull- 
haitinsc.  They  have  great  strens:th  and  agility  of  body,  and 
delight  in  fighting  wild  beasts.  They  display  the  same  sereni- 
ty and  activity  in  the  bull  feasts  of  the  country  as  in  war.  Bull- 
baiting  is  a  common  diversion  in  Peru,  as  in  all  the  Spanish 
dominions,  and  the  Cholos  particularly  delight  in  it,  taking  an 
active  part  in  the  performance. 

The  performances  open  by  a  fierce  bull  appearing  in  the 
arena.  The  first  athleter  receives  the  furious  beast  on  horse- 
back, with  a  pike  of  three  yards  in  length,  with  which  he  stabs 
him  in  the  head  and  neck  to  irritate. him  to  greater  fury;  the 
beast  foaming  at  the  mouth,  and  bellowing  in  a  most  frightful 
manner.  Afterwards,  seven  or  eight  men  enter  on  foot,  with 
small  sj:icks  loaded  with  rockets,  which  are  discharged  at  the 
bull.  A  quarter  of  an  hour  is  thus  spent  in  horrid  combat, 
when  a  man  enters  with  a  large  sword  to  despatch  the  half 
dead  animal.  In  these  sports  men  and  horsesi  are  not  unfre- 
quently  slain.  Sometimes  the  Cholos  mount  astride  of  the 
bull,  and  goad  him  with  spears,  at  the  same  time  playing 
upon  the  guitar;  and  they  will  steadily  and  firmly  maintain 
their  position  as  well  as  if  mounted  on  horseback,  notwith- 
standing the  furious  and  desperate  plunges  of  the  tormented 
animal. 


154  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 


PERD. 


The  Enrnppdv  Spaniards  come  next  in  order.  In  Peru, 
there  are  probably  between  7000  and  SOOO,  but  it  is  impossible 
to  tell  the  precise  number,  as  no  census  is  ever  taken.  Of  these, 
many  come  out  as  officers  uiuler  the  irovernment ;  others  as 
private  adventurers,  who  accumulate  larire  fortunes  by  a  rigid 
economy,  and  often  by  intermarriatre  with  the  dau'/hters  of 
the  wealthy  merchants  and  planters  of  the  country.  The  most 
stupid  and'  iirnoranl  Spaniard  is  preferred  to  the  Creoles,  who 
are  called  idlers  and  uamblers.  They  hold  exclusively  all  the 
lucrative  offices,  and  enjoy  the  favor  and  protection  of  the 
government,  and  monopolize  all  the  foreip^n  commerce;  they 
are  continually  in  contention  with  the  Creoles,  and  they 
mutually  hate  and  d(\spise  each  otiier.  They  are  warmly  and 
stubbornly  attached  to  their  native  country,  and  in  tlie  late 
revolution  they  frequently  burst  asunder  the  bonds  of  natural 
affection  and  conjup;al  love;  fathers  separatini^  from  their 
sons,  and  husbands  from  their  wives.  All  their  et'ucation 
consists  in  reading,  writing,  and  the  elements  of  arithmetic  ; 
and  their  religion  is  a  blind  and  bigoted  devotion  to  popery. 

The  Nesrrops  are  comparatively  an  insignificant  portion  of 
the  population  of  Peru.  They  are  princij)ally  slaves,  and  are 
owned  more  for  ostentation  tlian  use.  They  follow  their 
masters  and  mistresses  in  rich  dre.sses  to  church,  and  to  public 
annisenient«i.  They  are  not  so  much  an  article  of  commerce 
in  the  interior  of  Peru,  as  in  Duenos  Ayr(>s.  Lima,  and  M(K|ue- 
guea;  but  when  once  introduced  into  a  family,  tliey  regularly 
descend  from  father  to  son.  On  the  Pacific  coast,  from  Arica 
to  Lima,  slaves  are  numerous  ;  and  on  the  sugar  plantations, 
in  the  breweries  and  maiuifactories,  they  are  treated  with  great 
severity;  to  send  a  negro  to  Moqueguea  is,  in  his  imagination, 
to  send  him  to  the  infernal  regions. 

The  Miilatldi.t  are  not  numerous;  they  are  generally  free, 
and  of  bad  character.  They  are  much  addicted  to  thi.-ving; 
are  sycophantic  in  their  manners,  ami  very  submissive  and 
obsequious  to  the  whites.  Their  occupation  is  generally  in 
the  fields  and  mines.  The  prisons  of  the  country  are  vpr>' 
commonly  tenanted  by  tiiese  persons,  while  an  Indian  is  rarely 
seen  in  them.  In  Lima,  and  on  the  coast  of  Peru,  the  nuilat- 
toes  differ  from  those  of  the  interior,  being  bettor  educated, 
and  possi^ssed  of  considerable  projjertj'. 

T/ir  I'crnvian  Iiif/ians  arc  generally  of  middle  stature,  and 
well  pr<\iiortioned  ;  their  general  complexion  is  a  copper  color, 
althoui^h  iti  the  wanner  regions  they  are  as  fair  as  the  people 
of  the  Sfiutli  of  l'",urope.  They  have  long  black  hair,  which 
thi-y  wear  loose  on  their  shouUlers,  when  attending  upon  reli- 
gious exercises;  they  have  no  beards;  they  possess  great 
muscular  strength,  which  is  owing  to  their  temperate  mode  of 
life  and  constant  exercise  ;  all  the  heavy  work  of  the  country 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  155 

INDIANS. 

being  performed  by  them  without  the  aid  of  machinery.  They 
will  carry  on  their  shoulders  150  lbs.  weioht  of  every  kind  of 
heavy  articles,  after  the  fashion  of  the  Israelites.  The  mag- 
nificent monuments  of  antiquity  in  Cuzco,  which  are  built  of 
stones,  some  measuring  from  10  to  15  yards  in  length,  and 
which  were  brought  from  great  distances,  are  the  work  of  the 
Indians,  and  proofs  of  their  great  muscular  stren^-th  ;  and  the 
grand  temples  and  structures  of  modern  times,  wiiich  are  built 
of  granite,  were  erected  by  them  without  the  use  of  machinery. 
The  high  roads,  causeways,  aqueducts,  bridges,  paintings, 
sculpture,  &c.  &c.,  are  the  work  of  their  hands.  Their  food 
is  of  (he  most  innocent  and  simple  kind;  it  consists  of  potatoes, 
milk,  maize,  qn.iiioa,  a  fine  grain,  chunii,  or  dried  potatoes,  bar- 
ley, pepper,  and  vegetables,  dressed  with  salt,  which  they  use 
in  abundance.  They  eat  a  little  beef  They  use  fi'eely  a  bit- 
ter herb  they  call  Coca,  which  they  chew,"  as  the  people  of  this 
country  do  tobacco,  and  it  seems  as  indispensable  to  their 
comfort.  They  rise  in  the  morning  before  the  break  of  day, 
the  year  round,  and  go  into  the  field  to  their  daily  work;  some 
to  tend  cattle,  and  others  to  cultivate  tiie  ground.  They  sleep 
on  the  floor  of  their  cabins,  without  beds.  They  dress  in  a 
short  woollen  frock  and  short  breeches  or  drawers,  which  are 
manufactured  in  their  own  families  ;  they  wear  sandals  simi- 
lar to  those  worn  by  the  Romans  ;  their  head-dress  is  a  wool- 
Jen  cap,  and  over  it  a  bonnet,  with  a  broad  brim,  to  protect 
them  fi-om  the  sun. 

The  dress  of  the  women  is- a  long  woollen  frock,  frequently 
extremely  fine,  and  of  every  variety  of  color  to  gratify  female 
caprice;  this  is  fastened  round  the  waist  with  an  ornamented 
girdle,  and  over  it  they  wear  a  square  piece  of  cloth,  or  shawl, 
which  is  fastened  on  the  bosom  by  a  silver  pin,  called  toupo, 
from  4  to  5  inches  in  length,  flattened  at  the  head,  and  some- 
times studded  with  gents.  The  girls  wear  their  dress  higher 
than  the  married  women.  The  Catholic  rosaries  and  the  cross 
are  always  appendages  to  their  dress.  They,  for  the  most 
part,  live  out  of  the  great  towns,  fearing  all  white  men,  who  do 
not  speak  their  language,  and  who,  too  often,  defraud  and  op- 
press them.  The  Indian  is  mild  and  patient  in  his  disposition, 
and  suffers  every  vexation  without  complaint ;  i^etired  in  his 
cabin,  he  finds  himself  happy  when  at  a  distance  from  the 
Spaniards. 

Their  houses  are  constructed  to  suit  the  climate,  of  a  conic 
figure,  with  one  door,  and  without  windows;  they  are  built  of 
unbaked  brick.  Their  beasts  of  burden  are  the  Llama  and  the 
Ass.  The  llama  is  a  slow-motioned  animal,  well  suited  to 
the  genius  of  the  Indian.  In  travelling,  the  Indian  slowly  fol- 
lows the  steps  of  his  llama,  making  his  day's  journey  of  about 
three  leagues.  The  male  and  female  Indians,  as  they  travel 
along  the  roads,  are  constantly  employed  in  some  work  of  in- 
dustry, making  cords  or  sewing.     They  are  never  idle. 

The  Indians  possess  great  skill  in  agriculture,  and  particu- 


IJG  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

PERU. 

laily  in  iriii3!;ation.  In  some  districts,  water  is  conveyed  in 
aqiu'ducts  oi"  stone,  with  i:;reat  facility,  for  a  distance  of  twenty 
miles.  They  are  not  sul)joct  to  diseases  lilce  the  Emopean 
Spaniards;  an  Indian  of  thirty,  is  called  a  boy;  tiiey  arc  never 
afllicttHJ  witii  tlie  toothache,  and  never  wear  spectacles.  They 
possess  a  jieculiar  talent  at  followiii!:;  the  track  of  their  own  do- 
mestic animals;  if  a  llama  escapes  from  its  llf)ck,  its  owner 
will  pursue  it,  distinu;uishing  its  footsteps  from  those  of  every 
other  animal  of  the  same  species,  for  any  distance;  tliey  are 
very  fond  of  do[^s,  and  keep  great  numbi-rs — a  sintrle  Indian 
sometimes  forty.  They  are  remarkable  for  their  fidelity  to 
their  masters,  and  preserve  with  <i;reat  care  every  thirvj; intrust- 
ed to  them ;  they  never  steal,  are  e;ood  husbands  and  fathers, 
know  no  dissolution  of  the  marriajre  bonds,  never  fora;et  an  act 
of  kindness,  and  are  naturally  generous  and  hospitable.* 

The  principal  source  of  wealth  to  Peru  is  its  mines;  these 
are  worked  by  a  veiy  different  class  of  persons  from  those  of 
Mexico.  In  the  latter  country,  mininij  is  carrit^d  on  by  per- 
sons of  fortune  and  distinction,  on  a  ^reat  scale;  but  in  Peru 
the  miner  is  generally  an  adventurous  speculator,  who  trades 
with  borrowed  funds,  and  is  subject  to  great  disadvantages. 
Tile  ort^s  are  extremely  rich,  yielding  from  five  to  fifty  jiounds 
of  silver,  for  every  hundred  weight  of  ore.  The  annual  mean 
produce  of  the  gold  and  silver  mines  of  Peru,  Humboldt  esti- 
mated at  (5.000,0()()  of  dollars.  Peru  is  the  only  part  of  Span- 
ish America  wliich  produces  quicksilver  in  abundance  ;  it  is 
found  in  whitish  masses  resembling  ill-burnt  brick.  The  fa- 
mous mercury  mine  of  Guancanelica.  is  situated  in  the  mount- 
ain of  Santa  haibara.  The  bottom  of  this  mine  is  13, SOS  feel 
above  the  level  of  the  sea;  so  that  the  miners  work  in  a  point 
1,610  feet  higiier  than  the  summit  of  tlie  peak  of  Tcneriffe. 

AsrriniUiirp  seldom  flourishes  in  mining  coimtries ;  this  is 
pre-einin<'ntly  true  of  Peru.  Its  soil  is  far  frcmi  lieing  fertile, 
and  the  few  advantages  which  it  possesses,  are  sadly  neglected. 
Many  of  the  towns  on  the  western  coast,  besides  Lima,  are 
obliged  to  depend  on  Chili  for  their  provisions. 

The  rnmmncti  of  Peru  is  not  extensive.  Its  exports  are 
gold  and  silver,  wine,  brandy,  sui.Mr,  Jesuits  bark,  fine  wool 
t)f  the  rirunva,  or  sheep  of  the  Andes,  Ac.  The  imjiortations 
are  Etn'opean  goods,  live  stock,  provisions,  fiirniture.  tallow, 
indigo.  &.C.  Its  trade  is  carried  on  with  Eini)i)e,  the  Isast  In- 
dices, Mexico,  Guatemala,  Chili,  and  the  provinces  of  Rio  de 
la  Plata. 

Among  the  amv/mawrifK  of  the  Peruvians  are  dancing,  mu- 
sic, bull-fights,  and  cock-fiyhting.     The  means  of  education 

•  Letters  on  the  United  Provindca  of  South  America. 


Botucudoes — Indians  of  Brazil.         P.  150. 


Crossing  the  Cordillera* 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  l57 

BOLIVIA. 


are  extremely  limited.  The  religion  is  Roman  Catholic.  The 
eoverninent  is  republican,  and,  in  its  form,  similar  to  that  of 
f'lft  United  States. 


4.  BOLIVIA. 

In  ouv  progress  south  from  Peru,  we  meet  with  Bolivia,  a 
Republic  comprehending  seven  Provinces  or  Departments,  and 
so  called  in  honor  of  the  celebrated  Simon  Bolivar,  who  wrest- 
ed it  from  the  dominion  of  the  Spaniards  in  1824.  Its  consti- 
tution was  adopted  in  1826.  It  formerly  belonged  to  Peru, 
and  ,was  called  Upper  Peru.  Its  length  from  N.N.E.  to  S.S.W. 
is  about  1,140  miles. 

The  'population  of  Bolivia  is  estimated  at  1,300,000,  a  portion 
of  whom  are  Indians,  who  are  represented  to  be  of  errant 
and  v.'arlike  dispositions,  particularly  the  Chiquitos.  The 
other  inhabitants  so  strongly  resemble  the  corresponding 
classes  of  Peru,  that  a  particular  description  of  them  would  be 
•superfluous. 

The  principal  objects  of  interest  in  Bolivia  to  travellers  like 
ourselves,  are  the  city  and  mines  of  Potosi,  to  a  brief  view  of 
which  we  must  limit  our  survey. 

Potosi  is  situated  in  the  centre  of  the  Province  of  the  same 
name,  1,650  miles  from  Buenos  Ayres,  1,215  miles  from  Lima, 
and  300  from  the  coast  of  the  Pacific.  It  stands  at  the  base  of 
the  mountain  of  Potosi,  and  yet  its  elevation  above  the  level  of 
the  sea  is  estimated  at  11,000  feet,  nearly  twice  as  high  as  the 
White  Hills  of  New  Hampshire.  The  figure  of  the  mountain 
is  conical,  and  is  covered  with  green,  red,  yellow,  and  blue 
spots,  which  give  it  a  very  curious  appearance  ;  it  resembles 
no  other  mountain  in  the  world ;  it  is  entirely  destitute  of  trees 
-or  shrubs. 

With  its  suburbs,  it  was  formerly  nearly  three  leagues  in 
circumference  ;  but  it  is  now  greatly  reduced  both  as  to  extent 
and  population.  The  latter  many  years  since  was  estimated 
•variously  from  40,000  to  70,000,  and  even  as  high  as  100,000  ; 
•but  later  authorities  reduce  this  number  to  12,000  or  15,000. 
The  streets  of  the  city  are  narrow  and  irregular.  The  houses 
are  uniformly  of  one  story,  built  of  stone  and  bricks,  with  bal- 
conies of  wood,  and  without  chimneys.  Each  house  contains 
a  drawing-room,  dining-room,  bed-rooms,  &c.,  and  each  ser- 
vant has  his  separate  apartment. 

The  climate  of  Potosi  is  very  cold;  and  for  the  distance  of 

twelve  miles  around  the  city,  there  are  no  trees  or  shrubbery 

of  any  kind,  and  nothing  vegetates,  except  a  species  of  green 

moss.     The  markets,  however,  are  abundantly  supplied  from 

•the  country,  provisions  being  brought  on  llamas,  asses,  and 

14 


158  U.\IVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

BOLIVIA. 


mules,  thousands  of  which  maybe  seen  of  a  morning  winding 
their  way  towards  the  city  with  their  burdens. 

Tliis  city  is  mucii  frequented  by  strani^ers  from  different 
parts  of  the  countrj';  it  is  a  phice  of  f^reat  fjayety  and  dissi- 
pation. There  are  no  tlieatres.  and  the  principal  anui.stMnents 
for  all  classes  is  {jamblinti;  and  faro-banks  and  billiard  tables 
are  scattered  all  over  the  city.  The  city  is  immensely  rich 
in  c:old  and  silver;  money  is  within  the  reach  of  evei-ybody, 
an(i  very  abundant,  as  may  be  supposed,  when  more  than 
•SID.OOO  are  coined  every  day,  the  year  round.  The  Azofriie- 
ros*  are  extremely  profuse  in  their  expenditiues,  squandering 
their  enormous  wealth  with  the  same  liberal  hand  with  which  it 
is  poured  into  tlieir  lap.  As  the  source  of  their  wealth  is  in  their 
inexhaustible  mines,  and  if  poor  to-day,  they  may  be  rich  to- 
morrow, their  habits  become  es'-'entially  dilferent  from  those 
of  tiie  merchant  or  manufacturer,  whose  prolits  depend  upon 
calculation  and  economy. 

The  manufactures  of  ttiis  city  are  in  a  wretched  state,  be- 
ing confined  principally  to  the  making  of  leather,  hats,  and 
tools  from  imported  steel,  which  is  sold  at  an  enormous  price. 
The  leather  is  made  from  goat-skins,  which  are  of  superior 
fjuality  and  very  abundant  here.  Gold  leaf  is  also  maiuifac- 
tured  in  great  quantities.  This  article  is  much  used  in  the 
churches,  and  the  candles  even  are  gilded  before  they  are 
lighted;  and  in  the  private  houses  of  the  rich,  the  leaves  of 
the  flowers  which  they  have  in  great  abundance  in  their  draw- 
ing-rooms, are  often  gilded  witli  gold  leaf  Tliere  are  no  car- 
riages in  this  city,  and  when  the  ladies  take  the  air,  it  is  on  the 
backs  of  horses  or  mules,  or  in  sedan  chairs,  which  are  very 
common.  There  are  persons  here  whose  profession  it  is  to 
teach  the  mules  and  lutrses  to  travel  with  an  easy  gait,  for  the 
ladies.  There  is  another  mode  of  travelling  which  is  curious*, 
a  chair  is  fixed  on  poles  which  are  laid  across  the  backs  of 
two  nudes,  and  in  which  two  or  three  persons  frecpiently  ride. 
The  Countess  of  ^'asa  Ileal,  a  few  years  ago,  attempted  to  in- 
troduce coaches  into  the  city,  but  the  first  time*  her  carriage 
was  drove  into  the  street,  it  v.as  ftirly  ran  away  with  Iiy  the 
mules,  and  dashed  to  pieces  against  the  eiinrcli.  'i'lie  city  is 
situated  on  the  side  of  the  lower  part  of  tlie  mountain,  in  the 
valley  at  the  foot  of  it,  and  is  aitogelher  too  sleep  and  irregular 
to  admit  of  wheel  carrlages.f 

The  silnr  mine  found  in  the  mountain  of  Potosi  has  rendered 
(his  place  celebrated  throughout  the  Wf)rld.  It  was  discovered 
in  K')15,  by  a  Peruvian  Indian,  named  Jlunlpn,  who  in  pursu- 
ing some  goats  uj)  the  mountain,  laid  hold  of  a  bush,  whose 

♦  In  .'\Ifxico,  iho  A:ot:uero.'!,  nororiliii;;  to  Iluniboldi,  nrc  miners,  or  those 
M'ho  nn  <ii)[  liivifi  in  lisc  uinalfjuiniitjoii  of  metals,  in  I'eru  tlicEi;  pcraons  are 
c^lli'd  Utu'/ii-iadorct. 

tPa/i>i'  Lcttrr-'i  nr.  Soiiili  Aincrics. 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLFR.  159 

POTOSI. 


roots  giving  way,  disclosed  a  large  vein  of  silver.  For  a  time, 
Huaipa  concealed  the  i<no\vledge  of  his  discovery  even  from 
his  friends — but  his  sudden  and  abounding  wealth  exciting  the 
suspicions  of  his  Indian  friends,  tliey  at  length  induced  him  to 
reveal  the  secret  to  them.  Not  long  after,  upon  an  occasion 
of  quarrelling  with  Huaipa,  the  latter  made  known  the  exist- 
ence of  the  mine  to  his  master,  who  was  a  Spaniard.  It  was 
immediatel}''  registered,  and  has  been  wrought  from  that  date 
to  the  present  time.  Such  is  the  common  story  of  the  manner 
in  which  this  mine  was  lirst  dis-covered  :  but  Pazos  in  his  letters 
on  South  America  states  that  in  Potosi,  "the  people  say  the  first 
discoverer  was  not  Huaipa.  but  Potocchi,  Potosi,  or  Potocsi, 


The  qifantity  of  sili'er  which  has  been  obtained  from  the 
mines  of  Potosi  can  probably  never  be  accurately  estimated. 
It  has  been  immense,  and  though  tlie  mines  are  not  so  produc- 
tive as  formerly,  millions  are  yet  annuall3^  obtained.  The  fol- 
lowing is  the  estimate  of  Bell,  of  the  produce  of  these  mines, 
to  the  year  1803. 

Years.  ?.Iaiks.  Dollars.  Pounds  Sterling 

From    1515  to  155G  IS.OOOiOO,")  127,500,000             2S,6'=!7,5nO 

—  15,5o  to  1578  5,765, ■^■27  49,00J,5!0              1 1,027,  U-1  5s. 

—  1573  to  173G  71,SIS,GSG  6  l0.45s,S:?.5  137,35:3.237,  17s.  6d. 

—  1735  10  1789  15,07'1,0-U  128, 129,374             28,829,109 

—  17S9  fo  1603  5,411,764  40,000,000             10,350,000 


Years.  Mark?.  Dollnrs.  Pounds  Sterling. 

Total  in  25S  years  113,070,321  901,097,739  216,246,99110s. 

Allowanfe  of  the  value  of  the 

piastre  bef  ire  1600  2ii,35l,765  220,000,000  49,500,000 

Add  one  fourth  of  the  above  t 

total  ri'E;i-;tered  produce  for 

contraband  34,738,110  295,274,435  67,436,649 


Total  of  registered  and  unre- 
gistered produce  extracted 
from  the  mines  of  Potosi, 
from  1545  to  1S03  174,160,198         1,476,372,174      332,183,749  lis.  8  l-4d. 

"The  most  flourishing  period  of  the  mines  of  Potosi,  during 
the  period  from  1556  to  1789,  was  that  from  1585  to  1606. 
For  several  successive  years,  the  royal  fifth  amounted  to 
1.500,000  dollars,  which  supposes  a  produce  of  1,490,000  or 
882,000  marks,  according  as  we  estimate  the  piastre  at  13;V  or 
8  reals,  equivalent  to  12,665,000  or  7,497,000  dollars.  After 
1606,  the  produce  gradually  diminished,  especially  since  1694. 
From  1606  to  1688,  the  annual  produce  was  never  below  350,000 
marks,  or  3,015,000  dollars.  During  the  latter  half  of  the  18th 
century,  it  generally  supplied  from" 300,000  to  400,000  marks, 
a  yearly  produce  this,  too  considerable  to  allow  us  to  advance, 
with  Robertson,  that  these  mines  are  no  longer  worth  work- 
ing. They  are  not,  indeed,  the  first  in  the  known  world,  but 
they  may  still  be  ranked  immediately  after  those  of  Guanax- 
uato,  in  Mexico.     That  they  do  not  yield  so  much  as  formerly, 


160         UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

BOLIVIA. 

is  not  at  all  owinfi;  to  their  exhaustion,  but  to  the  ignorance  of 
the  Spanish  miners,  by  whose  unskilful  manaa;ement  most  of 
the  pits  arc  allowed  to  remain  full  of  water.  Steam  enirinos, 
the  powers  of  which  arc  so  W(>11  understood  in  this  country, 
are  here  \\h0ll3'  unknown.  In  the  opinion  of  Helms,  the 
mines  of  Potosi  micrht  easily  he  made,  with  moderate  skill  and 
mana,2;ement,  to  yield  20,000.000,  or  even  .'J0.000,(700  dollars 
annuailv.  In  addition  to  2,000  Indians  employed  as  miners, 
there  are  15,000  llamas,  and  15,000  mules,  employed  in  carry- 
ing; the  ore  from  the  mountain  of  Potosi  to  the  amalgamation 
works." 

The  prncpfta  nf  ftrparalimr  the  metaJ.'i  frnm  thf^ir  ovt'.i  is  thus 
described  by  Wileocke:  "Tlic  ores  arclirst  reduced  to  a  line 
powder  or  flour  by  hammers;  sometimes  in  order  to  render 
tiKMii  more  friable,  they  are  previously'  roasted,  in  an  oven  or 
furnace.  The  powder  is  sifted  through  fme  iron  or  copper 
sieves,  which  are  larcje,  and  handled  by  four  or  live  Indians; 
the  fine  powder  is  taken  away  for  amalu'nmatit)n,  and  the  coarse 
is  returned  to  tlie  mill.  The  ore  is  sometimes  pulverized  dry, 
and  sometimes  with  water;  if  dry,  it  is  afterwards  wet,  and 
•well  kueadi'ti  wilh  the  feet  for  a  considerable  time,  which  is 
done  by  the  Indians.  The  mud  is  then  laid  upon  a  lloor  in 
square  parcels  of  a  foot  thick,  each  containinir  about  2500 
wei^^ht,  and  these  masses  are  called  nurjxnt  or  bodies.  On 
these  heaps  about  200  pounds  of  common  salt  are  thrown, 
which  is  moulded  and  incorporated'  with  the  metaliic  nurd  for 
two  or  three  days.  After  this,  the  proportion  of  mercury 
which  is  juda;ed  proper,  is  added  to  the  niass.  The  (piantity 
of  mercury  used  depends  upon  the  su|)posed  richness  ol'tiieore. 
They  sjenerally  allow  from  four  and  a  half  to  six  ptiunds  of 
mercmy  to  one  ]iotmd  of  silv(^r.  The  masses  are  now  stirred 
v'xiihi  or  ten  times  a  daj'  in  ord(>r  to  jiromote  the  cheiuical  ac- 
tion, and  to  accelerate  the  amaliramation  of  the  mercury  and 
silver  ;  and  for  this  purpo.^e,  lime  is  akso  frecjuently  added,  and 
sometimes  lead  or  tin  ore.  In  cold  weather  this  process  of 
amalgamation  goes  on  slowly,  so  that  they  an^  often  obiitrod 
to  stir  the  mass,  durintr  -'i  month  or  six  weeks.  AVIien  the 
silver  is  supposed  to  be  all  collected,  the  mass  is  carried  to  the 
vats,  made  of  stone  or  wood,  and  lined  with  leather,  into  which 
a  current  of  water  is  directed,  to  wash  oil"  the  earth.  There 
are  commonly  three  vals  through  wiiichthe  mineral  is  i)assed, 
and  the  same  process  is  performed  in  each.  ^\  hen  the  water 
rims  olf  clear,  the  amalfram  is  found  at  the  bottom  of  the  vats. 
This  is  |)ut  in  a  weollen  ba<r,  and  hun'j;  up  for  the  quicksilver 
to  drain  out;  it  is  then  beat  with  Hat  jiieces  of  wood,  and  press- 
ed by  a  wei<rlit  laid  ujion  it;  when  as  much  of  the  (pucksilver 
as  can  be  pot  out  by  this  misans  is  expelled,  they  put  the  paste 
or  residuum  info  a  mould  of  wf)od,  made  in  the  form  of  a  py- 
ramid, at  the  bottdui  of  which  is  a  copper  plate  full  of  luiles  ; 
after  it  ha;t  become  hard,  the  njould  is  taken  oil' and  the  mass 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  161 

BUENOS  AYRES. 


with  its  copper  bottom  is  placed  over  a  vessel  of  water,  and 
is  covered  with  an  earthen  cap  or  reversed  crucible,  on  which 
ignited  charcoal  is  placed  in  order  to  evaporate  the  quick- 
silver, some  part  of  which  is  collected  by  the  cap  with  which 
the  mass  is  covered,  and  is  saved.  After  the  evaporation, 
there  remains  a  lump  of  grains  of  silver,  which  require  to  be 
fused  before  they  become  united  into  one  mass;  they  are  then 
cast  into  ingots,  wliich  are  stamped.  The  ingots  are  cast  in 
a  pyramidal  form  when  destined  for  the  mint;  if  intended  for 
private  use,  they  ai'e  moulded  into  a  variety  of  fancy  figures 
according  to  individual  taste,  and  are  frequently  employed  to 
ornament  the  houses  of  the  proi)rietors  of  the  mines.  In  these 
tedious  and  rude  processes  of  amalgamation,  it  is  calculated 
that  one  third  at  least  of  the  silver  is  lost,  and  twice  the  time 
and  expense  incurred,  which  would  be  necessary,  in  a  more 
enlightened  mode,  to  complete  the  operation.  Of  the  mercury 
it  is  impossible  to  say  how  much  is  wasted,  but  according  to 
Humboldt,  the  Azogueros  of  Mexico,  by  whom  metallurgy  is 
much  better  understood,  lose  in  general  from  eleven  to  four- 
teen ounces  of  mercury  for  every  eight  ounces  of  silver.  The 
benejiciadores  of  Potosi,  are  by  far  the  most  skilful  of  all  Upper 
Peru.  In  the  other  provinces,  instead  of  triturating  wheels, 
they  use  grindstones  to  pulverize  the  ores,  and  every  opera- 
tion is  equally  rude  and  slovenly.  The  mode  I  have  describ- 
ed, is  the  only  one  practised  in  Potosi,  in  extracting  the  metals 
from  their  ores;  and  the  chemical  principles  upon  which  the 
various  processes  depend,  are  probably  not  at  all  understood 
by  those  who  have  practised  them  for  many  years." 

Our  remarks  upon  Bolivia,  few  as  they  have  been,  must 
here  be  brought  to  a  close.  To-morrow,  in  resuming  the  story 
of  our  wanderings,  we  expect  to  have  passed  to  a  latitude  still 
more  southern,  and  to  speak  of  a  country  far  more  interesting. 


5.  BUENOS  AYRES. 

This  immense  country  is  bounded  north  by  Bolivia  ;  east  by 
Paraguaj'^,  the  river  La  Plata,  and  the  Atlantic  Ocean ;  south 
by  the  Atlantic  and  Patagonia,  and  west  by  Chili  and  the  Pa- 
cific. Its  extreme  length  is  1660  miles,  and  its  breadth  1060. 
A  great  part  of  the  territory  consists  of  vast  plains  called  pam- 
■pas.  They  commence  at  73  miles  west  from  Buenos  Ayrcs, 
and  extend  upwards  of  1200  miles  in  length,  and  500  in  breadth. 
Hence  the  population  of  Buenos  Ayres  is  small  in  comparison 
with  its  territory.  It  is  computed  at  two  millions,  consisting  of 
descendants  of  Spaniards,  Indians,  Negroes,  and  Mulattoes. 

Persons^  dispositions,  and  manners  of  the  native.,  or  Spanish 
inhabitants  of  Buenos  Ayres. — "It  might  be  supposed,"  ob- 
serves the  author  of  a  Five  Years  Residence  in  Buenos  Ayres, 
14* 


162  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

BUENOS  AYRES. 


"  from  the  hititiule  in  which  this  city  is  situated,  that  the  faces 
and  generaJ  appearance  of  the  natives  would  jiartake  of  a 
dusky  hue;  as  retrards  the  male  sex,  lliis  is  certainlythc  case, 
thouf^h  here  ami  there  the  reverse  is  seen.  Of  the  females, 
however,  many  can  boast  a  counteiiaiice  of  roses  ami  lilies 
equal  to  those  of  a  colder  climate.  Amoni^st  the  mulatto  cast, 
there  are  some  jiretty  jrirls.  I  have  noticed  that  some  distinc- 
tions are  kept  up,  the  word  nmlallo  beimjoRen  used  as  a  term 
of  reproach  ;  this  is  illiberal.  One  or  two  families  of  red 
haired  children  are  rather  remarkable  in  a  country  where  the 
darker  hue  jiredominates.  1  really  thought  they  were  of  Scotch 
extraction,  till  I  was  informed  to  the  contrary." 

It  is  rarely  we  see,  in  Buenos  Ayre.s,  a  jierson  marked  with 
the  small  })ox,  vaccination  being  generally  practised;  and 
there  are  veiy  few  deformed  people.  Indeed,  the  generality 
of  them  may  be  called  handsome.  The  young  men  are  well- 
grown,  possess  good  figures,  and  their  manners  render  them 
truly  agreeable. 

Faces  may  be  seen  here  of  female  beauty,  worthy  a  painter's 
stud}' ; — the  intelligent  dark  eye,  polished  forehead,  and  jier.sons 
moulded  by  grace  itself  England  is  called  the  land  of  beauty, 
and  it  deserves  its  name;  but  beauty  is  not  peculiar  to  England 
alone.  Buenos  Ayres  contains  within  its  walls  as' much  love- 
liness as  imagination  can  dream  of 

The  stately  elegance  of  walk,  for  which  the  Spanish  ladies 
are  so  remarkable,  is  in  no  place  more  conspicuous  than  in 
Buenos  Ayres:  and  it  is  not  confined  to  the  upper  class — fe- 
males of  all  descriptions  possess  it;  one  must  therefore  con- 
clude it  not  to  be  an  acquired  accomplishment.  If  my  fair 
countrywomen  would  deign  to  imitate  them  in  this  respect, 
and  get  rid  of  that  ungraceful  postman-like  pace  they  now 
have,  I  should  love  them  all  the  better. 

The  inhabitants  possess  a  happy  medium  between  French 
vivacity  and  Englisli  reserve.  An  Enirlishman  feels  at  home 
with  them  ;  for  should  he  be  deficient  in  the  language,  he  need 
not  fear  that  his  blunders  will  be  laughed  at.  In  sickness, 
they  are  j)roverbial  for  their  kind  attention,  as  many  of  my 
countrynii'ii  have  experienced,  preparing  every  little  delicacy 
they  think  will  please.  It  is  only  to  know  these  people,  to  es- 
teem them. 

The  cnthusi.ism  with  which  the  Sjianiards  regard  the  female 
sex,  like  nu)st  other  things,  has,  doul)tless,  been  exaggerated. 
In  Buenos  Ayres,  if  they  have  not  exactly  caught  this  enthusi- 
asm, they  have  done  better  ;  their  attentions  are  founded  on 
real  respect  to  the  virtues  of  the  sex,  and  are  therefore  more 
likely  to  last. 

The  character  given  to  the  Spaniards,  of  all  descriptions, 
for  jealousy  of  their  females,  must  have  been  either  fabulous, 
or  a  great  change  has  taken  place,  for  nothing  approaching  to 
it  can  l)e  observed  in  their  descendants  here.  The  gentlemen 
conduct  themselves  with  the  most  marked  politeness  towards 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  163 

HABITS    AND    MANNERS. 

the  females,  paying  them  the  greatest  attention  and  respect.  I 
have  heard  it  asserted,  that  they  make  negUgent  husbands.  In 
every  populous  city,  no  doubt,  many  of  this  class  are  to  be 
found  :  but  those  Buenos  Ayrean  husbands  whom  I  have  the 
pleasure  of  knowing,  seem  devotedly  attached  to  their  wives, 
behaving  with  a  tenderness  not  every  day  found  even  in  Eng- 
land, that  land  of  domestic  felicity. 

The  ladies  appear  equal  in  affection;  and  are  kind  and  ten- 
der mothers.  It  is  pleasing  to  see  the  care  and  fondness  they 
bestow  on  their  children.  A  stranger  need  not  be  a  day  in 
Buenos  Ayres  without  discovering  this,  and  such  traits  speak 
volumes.  They  do  not  follow  the  unmotherly  practice  of  put- 
ting their  infants  out  to  nurse,  thinking  it  no  disgrace  to  suckle 
their  own  offspring.  In  my  opinion,  there  is  as  fair  a  propor- 
tion of  married  happiness  in  this  city,  as  can  be  found  in  those 
that  bear  a  name  of"  being  more  domesticated. 

The  compliments  of  salutation  are  much  the  same  as  in  Eng- 
land, with  the  gentlemen,  viz.  the  good  old  hearty  shake  of  the 
hand.  The  French  embrace  of  the  males,  kissing  each  other, 
is  not  followed  ;  for  which  I  am  better  pleased.  Much  as  I 
esteem  my  friends  of  Buenos  Ayres,  I  wish  no  other  than  fe- 
male lips  to  touch  my  cheek.  The  salutation  of  the  females, 
on  bidding  adieu  for  long  journeys  or  on  returning  from  one, 
is  kissing  and  embracing  each  other;  in  this  respect,  they  dif- 
fer but  little  from  British  females — perhaps  a  little  more  fer- 
vent. I  have  seen  ladies  when  returned  from  a  voyage  to 
Monte  Video,  hug  their  old  black  servant  who  has  come  to 
meet  them  on  the  beach,  with  all  the  ardor  of  affection,  so  dif- 
ferent from  our  notions  of  propriety. 

Should  a  lady  be  seized  with  a  fit  of  yawning,  she  crosses 
herself  with  the  most  burlesque  sanctity.  The  style  in  which 
they  cross  themselves,  requires  a  rehearsal  to  understand  it  ; 
they  touch  the  cheeks,  chin,  and  bosom,  quick  with  the  thumb, 
or,  as  a  military  man  would  denominate  it,  in  double  quick 
time. 

Smoking  cigars  is  a  general  practice.  I  might  almost  add, 
with  men,  women,  and  children  ;  fhe  ladies  of  the  better  class, 
always  excepted,  though  report  says,  they  will,  in  secret,  take 
the  luxury  of  a  cigar.  Here,  boys  of  eight,  nine,  and  ten  years 
of  age,  may  be  seen  smoking. 

The  Enghsh  soon  get  into  the  fashion;  and  most  of  them 
are  as  fond  of  the  cigar  as  the  natives,  who  are  smoking  from 
the  time  they  get  up,  until  they  go  to  bed.  If  they  ride  on 
horseback,  a  cigar  is  in  their  moulths.  Should  they  alight  in 
the  streets,  it  is  only  to  stop  the  first  person  they  meet  smok- 
ing, to  obtain  one.  I  have  often  smiled  to  see  a  first  rate  Creo- 
lian  dandy  lighting  his  cigar  from  that  of  some  dirty  black 
fellow. 

Havana  cigars  are  the  favorites,  but  they  are  dear,  and  not 
at  all  times  to  be  had  in  perfection.  The  paper  ones,  or  ci- 
gars de  Hoja,  made  from  the  tobacco  leaf,  are  mostly  used, 


161  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

BDEN09  AYRES. 

and  by  many  prefenod.  The  manufacture  of  them  all'ords 
employiiKMit  to  a  uroat  many  people,  includini;  females. 

.So  relined  are  their  ideas  of  poiitenes;?,  that  a  person  smok- 
ing invariably  takes  the  cigar  from  his  mouth  when  passing  an- 
other in  the  street. 

In  another  branch  of  politeness,  Buenos  Ayres  is  not  out- 
done, even  by  Paris  itself;  viz.  the  constant  custom  of  taking 
oft'tlie  hat  when  meetincj  each  other  in  tlie  street.  The  Eng- 
lish mode  of  touchiii2;tlie  hat  is  too  groom  and  footman-like  to 
be  followed  here;  theirs  is  taken  entirely  from  the  iiead  ;  and, 
when  in  comi)liment  to  ladies,  they  remain  uncovered  until  the 
objects  of  their  politeness  have  passed.  It  is  managed  grace- 
fully— removing  the  hat  from  beliind,  similar  to  those  who  are 
accustomed  to  wear  wigs  ;  it  may  be,  to  save  the  fronts  (Vom 
dilapidation,  which  such  continual  calls  on  tliem  would  occa- 
sion. 

The  plant  called  yerba,  the  growth  of  Paraguay  and  the 
Brazils,  is  the  tea  of  Buenos  Ayres.  Tlu>y  drink  it  out  of  a 
small  globe,  to  which  a  tube  is  li,\ed  nearly  as  long  as  our  to- 
bacco-pipe ;  it  is  called  the  matte  pot,  and  the  beverage  drawn 
from  the  yerba,  is  the  matte.  Tiiese  pots  are  generally  of  sil- 
ver ;  and  they  liand  them  from  one  to  the  other  in  drinking — a 
practice  not  the  most  cleanly.  AVhen  I  first  saw  the  tu!)fs  in 
the  ladies'  mouths,  I  conceived  they  were  smoking.  Matte  has 
not  a  bad  llavoi-,  but  nothing  equal  to  tea.  It  is  reported  by 
some,  to  be  pernicious  to  tlie  teeth.  In  visiting-|iartit>s.  it  is 
always  handed  round.  It  carries  such  an  idea  of  the  tobacco 
pipe,  that  I  do  not  much  admire  seeing  these  matte-pots  in  the 
hands  of  ladies. 

In  general,  the  time  of  meals  in  Buenos  A)'rean  families, 
is  pretty  nearly  as  follows  : — They  have  vKitte  the  first  thing, 
which  they  often  take  in  bed  ;  at  I'ight  or  nine,  they  have  what 
we  should  call  breakfast,  beefsteaks,  &c. ;  dinner  at  two  and 
thrf  e  ;  wnttp.  at  six  and  seven,  followed  after  by  a  supper.  The 
fashionable  London  hours  of  break  fast  inir  at  one  and  two  in 
the  afternoon,  and  dining  at  eight  or  nine  in  the  evening,  have 
not  travelNnl  to  this  quarter  of  the  globe  yet.  They  drink  wine 
out  of  tuml)ler  glasses. 

The  sifstri,  or  afternoon  nap,  is  not  so  regul.irly  taken  a.<* 
formerly:  they  hav»?  got  more  into  the  hal)its  of  i)usiness,  and 
cannot  afford  time  for  sleeping  in  the  day  ;  and  it  does  away 
the  remark,  that,  during  .tiei^ta  time,  nobody  is  to  be  seen  in 
the  streets  but  Englishmen  and  dogs.  The  sifsta  has  its  reg- 
ular season,  beginning  and  ending  with  summer.  Tin;  |ilo(l- 
ding  and  industrious  world  cry  out  against  this  practice  as  en- 
couraging sloth  ;  but  I  think  a  nap  after  dinner,  in  warm  lati- 
tudes, both  refreshing  and  conducive  to  health. 

Ilou.ses  are  not  provided  with  the  convcMiience  of  bells  ;  their 
.servants  are  sunnnoned  either  by  calling,  or  making  a  noi.se 
upon  the  tables.  At  meals,  the  servants  and  slaves  are  in  at- 
tendance at  the  table. 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  165 


HABITS  AND  MANNERS. 


They  retire  to  rest  in  winter  at  ten  or  eleven;  in  summer, 
latf  r,  as  at  this  season  they  enjoy  the  cool  of  evening  from  the 
azoteas,  or  from  seats  near  the  windows. 

A  walk  in  the  streets  on  a  fine  summer's  night  is  not  unin- 
teresting, from  the  number  of  ladies  walking  and  at  the  win- 
dows. Evening  is  the  time  devoted  by  ladies  to  shopping.  A 
night  previous  to  a  holyday  or  Sunday,  the  shops  are  crowded. 

In  families  of  lespectabiUty,  which  have  unmarried  daugh- 
ters, weekly  tertulins,  or  public  dances,  are  often  held  during 
the  winter,  which,  they  say,  are  for  the  purpose  of  showing  the 
young  ladies  olf,  and  getting  them  husbands. 

These  dances  are  got  up  at  very  little  expense  or  prepara- 
tion. One  of  the  ladies  presides  at  the  piano ;  tlie  refreshments 
are  cakes,  sweetmeats,  and  liqueurs:  a  few  dollars  provides 
for  all.  The  sumptuous  repasts  provided  on  such  occasions 
in  England,  bespeak  so  much  of  ceremony  as  considerably  to 
mar  the  pleasure. 

On  birthdays  compliments  are  sent  and  received,  with  pres- 
ents of  sweetmeats,  &c.,  and  dinners  and  terlulias  are  given. 
Those  days  are  more  observed  than  with  us,  but  the  itinerant 
musicians  about  the  doors  have  a  little  fallen  off  lately. 

Sweetmeats  are  much  eaten,  and  by  the  cliildren  in  large 
quantities.  In  coffee-houses  they  sprinkle  the  toast  with  sugar; 
an  English  child  would  call  them  "sugar  babies."  I  am  not 
dentist  enough  to  decide  whether  this  is  one  of  the  causes  of 
decayed  teeth,  so  often  observed  in  young  people,  and  the  pre-, 
vailing  malady  of  the  toothache;  but  persons  are  continually 
seen  with  their  faces  tied  up  for  this  complaint:  it  is,  indeed, 
a  disease  of  the  country.  Bad  teeth  are  a  sad  drawback,  as 
they  are  both  '-useful  and  ornamental,"  and  the  purchase  of 
new  teeth  and  gum.s  in  Buenos  Ayres  would  be  rather  diffi- 
cult; besides,  all  the  world  must  know  about  it.  In  London 
and  Paris  such  things  pass  as  nothing. 

VvHien  walking  in  public,  the  female  rarely  takes  the  arm  of 
a  gentleman,  except  it  be  night.  This  seems  to  us  an  unsocial 
fashion.  At  dark,  however,  the  restriction  ceases,  and  ladies 
will  then  honor  us  by  accepting  our  arm:  with  married  per- 
sons, this  is  more  common.  Tlie  Englishman  and  his  wife,  in 
spite  of  Spanish  modes,  are  seen  trotting  comfortably  along 
tlie  Alameda  on  Sunday,  arm  in  arm,  as  if  at  home. 

Neither  is  it  the  fashion  for  gentlemen  to  escort  the  ladies,  but 
to  the  theatre  or  public  places ;  their  visits  and  shopping  are 
in  company  only  with  their  own  sex.  If  a  fair  lady  should 
waive  this  rule,  and  allow  us  to  proceed  by  her  side  for  a  few 
streets,  it  would  be  the  height  of  vulgarity  to  offer  the  arm.  In 
England  we  have  other  notions  of  gentility. 

At  the  ball-room  the  females  sit  together,  when  not  engaged 
in  dancing.  During  this  pause,  some  gentleman  will,  with 
hesitating  steps,  approach  them,  and  solicit  a  lady  to  waltz  or 
dance  a  minuet  with  him. 

The  Spaniards  pride  themselves  upon  the  delicacy  and.  re- 


166  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

BUENOS  AYRES. 


spcct  with  wliich  ihey  treat  the  females;  and  though  there  are 
many  Spiinisli  customs  which  I  think  "  more  honored  in  the 
breach  than  tlie  observance,"  this  is  one,  1  trust,  will  last  for 
ever.* 

In  their  atlire,  observes  tlie  same  author,  the  g-entlemen  of 
Buenos  Ayres  follow  the  English  fashion.  From  the  summer's 
heat,  jackets  and  lii^ht  t-rousers  are  worn,  with  straw  hats,  par- 
ticularly those  singularly  shaped  ones  from  Chili.  It  is  not 
genteel  to  wear  jackets  at  tli<'  theatre,  or  at  parties.  From 
November  to  March  light  clothing  is  very  agreeable,  except 
now  and  then  during  some  days  of  cold. 

In  England  they  would  smile  to  see  the  dress  of  the  boys  in 
Buenos  Ayres  ;  they  have  long  coats,  capotes,  large  hats,  Wel- 
lington trousers,  and  boots;  and  this  for  children  of  eiglit  and 
nine  years  of  age,  wlio  look  like  men  of  Lilliput. 

The  dress  of  the  Buenos  Ayrean  ladies  includes  all  that  is 
charniing  in  female  attire.  White  is  the  prevailing  color. 
The  waist  is  neither  so  short  as  the  French,  nor  so  long  as  the 
English.  Shawls  of  all  descriptions  are  worn;  some  of  them 
serve  both  for  veil  and  shawl,  covering  the  bosom,  and  hang- 
ing loosely  over  the  back  part  of  the  liea<l.  The  face  is  never 
concealed. 

The  greatest  attention  is  paid  to  the  hair,  which  is  suifered 
to  grow  to  a  considerable  length,  and  is  fastened  by  a  comb 
behind,  with  ringlets  in  the  front.  Caps  or  bonnets  are  never 
worn,  even  in  extreme  old  age.  The  elderly  lady  has  her 
white  locks  as -carefully  combed  as  when  in  youth,  and  the 
same  peculiar  style  of  managing  the  veil.  They  have  not  re- 
course to  powder,  or  other  clisguises,  to  hide  the  appioaih  of 
age.  In  company  they  are  exceedingly  free  and  talkative,  and 
very  cheerful.  It  is  a  sight  not  devoid  of  interest  to  see  them 
gliding  along  in  their  black  attire  to  church,  at  which  they  are 
the  most  constant  visitants — the  jaded  forms  of  what  was  once, 
perhaps,  so  lovely. 

The  wearing  of  moinning  does  not  continue  so  long  as  with 
us  ;  neither  are  young  and  handsome  widows  disfigured  by 
those  close  and  melancholy  looking  cajis  that  we  see  in  Eng- 
land. 

Fan.s  are  the  ladies'  constant  companions — in  the  street, 
theatre,  ball,  and  chamber  ;  and  their  style  of  using  them  is 
unicpu,',  and  grac:efnl.  They  are  ex|)ensive:  I  have  heard  of 
sixty  to  seventy  dollars  being  \n\-vn  fir  one.  The  French  send 
a  great  many,  with  all  the  embellishments  so  peculiar  to  that 
nation. 

The  dress  of  the  female  children  displays  equal  taste  with 
that  of  their  elders  ;  from  which,  indeed,  there  is  little  ditfer- 
ence— the  short-sleeved  frock,  silk  stocking.s,  curled  hair,  and 
fan.  They  walk  the  streets  with  immense  importance — the 
miniatures  of  those  of  maturer  age.f 

•  Five  Years  lleeidcnce  m  Buonos  Ayres.  t  Ibid. 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  167 


HABIT3  AND  MANNERS. 


Gaming  is  a  common  amusement.  Cock  fighting  also  is  prac- 
tised by  a  particular  class  of  people.  A  good  English  game- 
cock commands  thirty  and  even  forty  dollars.  Shooting  and 
fishing  are  not  practised  to  a  great  extent.  Fish  are  general- 
ly taken  on  horseback.  Two  horses  are  attaclied,  one  to  each 
end  of  the  net — a  man  standing  on  their  backs.  In  this  man- 
ner they  proceed  into  the  water,  the  horses  often  being  obliged 
to  swim  on  account  of  the  depth  of  the  water.  Having  made 
a  sufficient  circuit,  the  horses  return  to  the  shore  dragging  their 
nets.  Throwing  the  lasso  is  also  a  favorite  amusement  of  this 
country,  and  is  performed  by  the  natives  with  great  dexterity. 
Aman  on  horseback,  holding  the  lasso,  (a  rope  looped  at  the 
end.)  rides  among  a  herd  of  cattle,  casting  the  rope  towards 
the  one  he  wishes  to  entrap  ;  the  first  attempt  almost  always 
succeeds,  and  the  animal  is  fast  secured  by  the  leg.  They 
practise  this  lasso  from  boyhood  :  it  is  a  formidable  weapon 
"against  a  flying  enemy. 

During  Carnival,  they  have  a  disgusting  practice:  in  place 
of  music,  masques,  and  dancing,  they  amuse  themselves  by 
throwing  buckets  and  pans  of  water  from  the  tops  of  houses 
and  windows,  sousing  every  passenger  that  passes,  and  fol- 
lowing each  other,  from  house  to  house,  in  regular  water  at- 
.tacks.  Egg-shells  filled  with  water  are  also  thrown  :  these  are 
sold  in  the  streets.  The  audience,  on  leaving  the  theatre  the 
night  before  carnival,  get  a  plentiful  salute  of  them.  It  lasts 
three  days  ;  and  many  persons  go  out  of  town  to  avoid  it,  as  it 
is  hardly  possible  to  walk  the  streets  v.-ithout  a  ducking.  The 
ladies  receive  no  mercy ;  neither  do  they  deserve  any,  for  they 
take  a  most  active  part.  Repeatedly,  on  passing  groups'of 
them,  at  night,  an  egg  of  water  has  been  adroitly  put  into  my 
bosom.  Those  whose  occupations  lead  them  into  the  street, 
must  expect  a  wetting.  Strangers  seem  to  join  in  the  sport 
with  great  glee.  An  English  master  of  a  vessel  just  arrived, 
received  a  bucket  of  Vv'ater.  Not  being  aware  of  the  practice, 
he  took  up  bricks,  swearing  he  would  break  every  window  in 
the  house.  He  could  scarcely  be  pacified.  Many  persons 
have  been  seriously  ill  from  the  effects  of  Carnival  playing. 
The  newspapers  and  police  have  interfered  to  suppress  it, 
hitherto  without  effect,  though  it  issom^ewhat  lessened.  They 
follow  it  as  an  ancient  custom  of  the  country. 

Bull-Fights. — The  following  description  of  this  most  barba- 
rous amusement,  is  from  the  pen  of  H.  M.  Brackenridge,  Esq. 
"  Our  arrival  at  Buenos  Ayres  happened  to  be  during  Lent; 
the  circus  and  theatre  were  closed,  and  public  amusements 
suspended.  My  curiosity  was  a  good  deal  excited  to  see  the 
bull-fights,  the  favorite,  amusement  in  rdl  Spanish  countries. 
As  soon  as  the  circus  was  opened,  I- took  the  earliest  opportu- 
nity of  attending  it.  It  is  a  circular  amphitheatre,  capable  of 
containing  between  tv/o  and  three  thousand  persons.     The 


169  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELL'ER. 

BUEN03    AYRES. 
^ \ 

arena  is  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  in  diameter,  with  an 
enclosure  of  about  sixty  fe(>t  hiirb.  with  opeuinpjs,  at  intervals, 
sufiiciently  wide  to  admit  the  body  of  a  man  ;  atone  end  there 
is  a  small  covered  pen,  with  stalls,  in  which  the  bulls  were 
confined,  and  openiiifi  into  the  arena  by  n  «,'ate.  On  the  oppo- 
site side,  there  was  a  larfre  cate,  at  which  the  bulls  were  drag- 
ged out,  after  being  killed.  I  found  the  place  considerably 
crowded  ;  but  chiefly  by  the  lower  classes  of  people  ;  at  least 
the  females  appeared  to  be  such.  Atone  side  of  the  toro.  there 
was  a  se;it  appropriated  to  tiie  city  authorities  ;  formerly,  the 
viceroy,  and  some  of  the  principal  public  functionaries,  had, 
also,  their  places  set  apart;  but  this  is  no  longer  the  case,  as 
it  is  considennl  even  disrespectable  f()r  those  ])ersons  to  be 
seen  here.  The  town-major,  who  is  the  chief  officer  of  the  po- 
lice, always  attends  on  these  occasions,  and  presides,  in  order 
to  prevent  any  disorder  or  disturlmnce.  Immediately  below 
his  seat,  there  was  a  band  of  music,  which  played  before  the 
commencement  of  the  bull-flights,  and  diu"ini,f  the  intervals  be- 
tween them.  A\'hen  the  spectators  had  begun  to  assemble,  a 
guard  of  soldiers,  about  thirty  in  number,  was  marched  into 
the  arena,  and  after  going  through  a  variety  of  evolutions, 
were  divided  into  small  detachments,  and  distributed  through 
the  different  parts  of  the  toro.  The  different  combatants, 
who  were  to  display  their  skill  and  courage  on  the  occasion, 
came  forward,  and  made  their  obeisance  to  the  town  major, 
and  then  retired  to  their  places.  The  fii-st  two  were  on  horse- 
back, called  the  piccmlures ;  one  a  Chilian,  of  enormous  stature 
and  bodily  strength,  the  other  a  half-Indian,  of  a  more  delicate 
frame,  and  a  more  sprightly  countenance.  They  had  both 
been  convicted  of  crimes,  and  condemned  to  fight  bulls  for  the 
amusement  of  the  public ;  their  irons  were  not  taken  off  until  im- 
mediately before  entering  the  toro.  There  were  five  or  six  others, 
called  bniKlalrins,  with  diflerenl  colored  flags,  for  the  jnirposc 
of  provoking  ainl  teasing,'  the  bull ;  the  last  were  the  viatta- 
(JnrcH  ;  having  in  the  left  hand  a  flag,  and  in  the  right  a  sword. 
The  picradores  were  armed  with  pikes,  about  twelve  feet  in 
length,  with  the  point  so  as  to  wourxl  tlie  animal  without  |>ene- 
trating  dee|)ly  ;  they  posted  themselves  on  the  left  side  of  the 
place  whence  the  hull  was  to  be  let  out,  and  at  the  distance  of 
fifteen  or  twenty  jiaces  from  each  other.  On  the  signal  given, 
the  gate  flew  oprn,  an<l  a  furious  animal  rushed  forth.  He  im- 
mediately marie  at  the  Chilian,  but  feeling  the  juiint  of  the 
steel  in  his  .^hftlilder,  he  suddenly  wheeled  round  and  ran  to- 
wards the  middle  of  the  arena,  when  tJie  bmulalrros  endeavor- 
ed to  provoke  him  with  tlieir  flags.  It  was  the  turn  of  the 
mestizo  to  receive  him  next  on  his  la)>ce;  but  it  was  not  untH 
after  the  l)ull  hud  chased  both  s-iveral  times  round  the  circus, 
that  he  could  venture  to  take  such  a  position  as  would  justify 
his  engairing  him  ;  it  was  necessary  to  be  near  the  enclosure, 
so  as  to  have  its  supjiort,  otherwise,  in  a  nnious  assault  of  tin- 
bull,   he  might  be  ()vertunied.     The  animal  attacked  the  hal/ 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  169 

BULL    FIGHTS. 

Indian  with  greater  fury  than  the  other,  but  on  feeling  the  steel, 
withdrew  in  the  same  manner  ;  after  this  was  repeated  several 
times,  the  bull  seemed  no  longer  inclined  to  attack  the  picca 
dores.  At  the  tap  of  the  drum,  the  piccadores  withdrew  from  the 
contest;  the  bandaleros  next  advanced  with  crackers,  which 
they  dexterously  thrust  into  different  parts  of  the  animal's 
body,  who  had  now  become  rather  sullen  ;  but  as  soon  as  they 
exploded,  and  scorched  him  severely,  he  grew  furious,  and 
ran  about  bellowing  with  rage  and  agony  ;  no  one  but  a  sav- 
age could  witness  this  scene,  for  the  first  time,  without  being 
shocked.  The  crackers  being  consumed,  the  animal  stood  still, 
his  tongue  lolling  out,  with  panting  sides  and  eyes  blind  with 
rage.  The  malladore  now  came  forward  ;  at  first  the  gener- 
ous animal  sJiowed  reluctance  to  take  notice  of  him,  but  on  be- 
ing provoked,  he  make  a  plunge  at  the  flag  held  in  his  hand, 
while  the  mattadore  dexterously  avoiding  him,  thrust  his  sword 
between  the  neck  under  his  shoulder,  thus  giving  him  a  mor- 
tal wound.  The  band  of  music  struck  up,  the  gates  of  thetoro 
were  thrown  open,  five  or  six  gauchos  rushed  in  on  horseback, 
threw  their  lassoes  about  him^some  fastening  about  his  horns, 
others  about  his  legs  and  body,  and  in  this  manner,  in  an  in- 
stant, bore  him  out  of  the  circus,  in  the  midst  of  the  shouts  of 
the  multitude.  Seven  other  bulls  were  let  out  in  succession, 
and  the  same  circumstances  repeated,  with  very  little  varia- 
tion. The  whole  was  terminated  with  a  feat,  performed  by  a 
wild  gaucho  ;  the  bull  being  let  out,  he  was  immediately  las- 
soed by  the  gauc+ios  on  horseback,  w,ho  threw  him  and  held 
him  fast  by  pulling  in  ojiposite  directions;  he  v/as  then  tied, 
and  a  saddle  girt  'on  him  by  the  gaucho,  who  was  bare-legged, 
and  had  nothing  on  but  a  shirt,  and  a  kind  of  petticoat,  some- 
thing like  a  Scotch  kilt,  the  ordinary  dress  of  these  people. 
The  animal  being  properly  prepared,  he  was  suffered  to  rise 
with  the  gaucho  on  his  back;  and  ran  perfectly  wild  and  furi- 
ous round  the  circus,  leaping,  plunging,  and  bellowing,  to  the 
great  diversion  of  the  spectators,  Avhile  the  gaucho  was  con- 
tinually goading  him  with  an  enormous  pair  of  spurs;  and 
lashing  him  with  his  whip.  When  the  animal  was  sufficiently 
tortured  in  this  way,  the  gaucho  drew  his  knife  and  plunged  it 
in  the  spinal  marrow  ;  the  bull  fell  as  if  struck  by  lightning, 
rolled  upon  his  back  with  his  feet  in  the  air,  which  were  not 
even  seen  to  quiver.  Such  is  the  barbarous  amusement  of 
bull-fighting,  formerly  th-o  delight  of  the  representatives  of  the 
kings 'of  Spain,  and  their  mimic  royalty  ;  in  a  more  enlighten- 
ed and  a  happier  age,  confined  here  to  the  coarse  and  vulgar  ; 
and  it  is  to  be  hoped  that,  in  the  progress  of  science,  Iberty, 
and  civilization,  it  will  disappear  forever."* 

Not  many  carriages  or  roaches  are  to  be  seen  at  Buinos 
Ay  res;  but  they  increase  in  number.      The  caJle  cache,   or 

*  Brackenridge's  Voyage  to  South  America. 
15 


170  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 


BUENOS  AYRES. 


street  conch,  is  much  used;  it  is  drawn  by  two  horses,  or 
mXiles,  with  a  postillion,  and  in  shape  very  much  resembles  our 
bakers'  carts ;  the  ]);issen<jfers  are  seated  sideways.  Some 
English  merchants  and  Creoles  iiave  carrinijes  after  the  Enj;- 
lish  mode;  but  the  nature  of  the  roads  and  stri-els  does  not  af- 
ford them  a  fjreat  opportunity  to  "show  off." 

The  traveliin'4  carriaj^^es  that  convey  families  to  their  estates, 
hundreds  of  miles  distant,  are  heavy,  cumbersome  machines, 
in  the  old  Spanish  style.  A  family  goinf^  to  the  country  is  no 
ordinary  siirht;  the  mules  and  \va;j;ons  followinj;  with  the  bag- 
gage, and  the  quantity  of  out-riders,  slaves,  and  servants,  in 
poiich<i.t  and  littl»!  dirty  hats,  surrounding  the  carriages  con- 
taining the  ladies  and  female  slaves,  appear  like  a  banditti  es- 
corting their  plunder. 

There  are  jiost-houses  on  the  road,  and  those  lending  to  Chili 
are  very  regular.  A  constant  supply  of  horses  and  guides  are 
kept;  but  persons  mosth'  go  on  horseback,  for  the  sake  of  ex- 
pedition. The  journey  is  thus  made  to  the  Andes  in  about 
fourteen  days.  Crossing  the  mountains,  and  ^.^etting  to  Santi- 
ago, in  Chili,  will  tnke  ai)out  three  weeks  from  r>uenos  Ayres; 
but  the  horse  must  always  be  kept  in  full  gallop.  Carri.iges 
aie  expensive,  and  very  dilatory,  but  they  save  a  great  deal 
of  fatigue. 

Tlu-y  have  no  convenience  like  the  livery  stables  of  Eng- 
land. The  horses  are  put  luider  a  shed,  or  left  in  the  ojien 
air;  the  mild  climate  requiring  no  other  care.  Those  en)ploy- 
ed  in  drudgery  w  ith  carts  at  the  custom-house,  &c.,  are  as  hard 
worked  as  jiost  and  hackney-coach  horses. 

English  saddles  are  in  vogue.  The  ricado.  or  saddle  of  the 
country,  keeps  its  sway,  being  so  constructed  that  on  journeys 
it  serves  for  saddle  nnd  bed.'  The  Sjianish  bridle  and  bit  are 
preferred  boll)  by  the  Euirii^h  and  the  natives.  The  S|)anish 
fashion  of  havini;  the  stirrups  long  is  invariably  followed,  and 
I  think  it  more  graceful  than  our  mode. 

The  country  wagons  avi-  roofed  with  hides,  and  have 
large  wheels:  the  creaking  of  the  latter  is  very  disagreealile; 
but  they  will  not  takt;  the  trouble  to  grease  them.  ^\'hole 
families  and  parties,  going  long  journeys,  live  and  sleep  for 
weeks  or  months  together  in  wagons  drawn  by  oxen.  Six  or 
eight  (»f  them  are  yoked  in  jiairs,  to  a  log  of  wood  at  the  back 
of  the  horns,  to  which  the  rope  harness  is  tied,  and  they  are 
thus  nui<le  to  draw  the  burden  from  the  head.  They  are 
urged  on  by  poles  with  a  sharp  substance  at  the  end  ;  the  dri- 
vers have  likewise  a  piece  of  lead  in  shape  and  size  like  a  con- 
stable's stall'  with  which  tliey  belabor  the  poor  animal  abom 
the  horns. 

In  crossing  the  pampas,  or  extensive  plains,  two  modes  of 
travellinir  are  adopte<l — in  a  carriage,  or  on  horseback.  The 
carriaires,  acci-rding  to  Cajjt.  Head,  are  without  springs,  either 
of  wood  or  iron,  but  they  arc  very  ingeniously  slung  on  hide 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  171 

m -■       -—.-.■■■     ■       .  -  — , _ —  —   -  , 

PAMPAS. 

ropes,  which  make  them  quite  easy  enough.  There  are 
two  sorts  of  carnages,  a  long  vehicle  on  four  wheels,  (with 
a  door  behind,)  which  is  drawn  by  four  or  six  horses,  and 
which  can  carry  eight  people;  and  a  smaller  carriage  on  two 
wheels  of  about  half  the  length,  M'hich  is  usually  drawn  by 
three  horses. 

"  When  I  first  went  across  th«  pampas,  I  purchased  for  my 
party  a  large  carriage,  and  also  an  enormous  two-wheeled, 
covered  cart,  which  carried  about  twenty-five  hundred  weight 
of  miners'  tools,  &c.  I  engaged  a  capataz,  (head  man,)  and  he 
hired  for  me  a  number  of  persons  who  were  to  receive  thirty 
or  forty  dollars  each  for  driving  the  vehicles  to  Mendoza. 

"The  day  before  we  started,  the  capataz  came  to  me  for 
some  money  to  purchase  hides,  in  order  to  prepare  the  car- 
riages in  the  usual  way.  The  hides  were  soaked,  and  then 
cut  into  long  strips  about  three  quarters  of  an  inch  broad, 
find  the  pole,  and  almost  all  the  wood  work  of  the  carriage, 
were  firmly  bound  v.'ith  the  wet  hide,  which,  when  drj^,  shrunk 
into  a  band  almost  as  hard  as  iron.  The  spokes  of  the  wheels, 
and,  very  much  to  our  astonishment,  the  fellies  or  the  circum- 
ference of  the  wheels  were  similarly  bound,  so  that  they  actu- 
ally travelled  on  the  hide.  We  all  declared  it  would  be  cut 
before  it  got  over  the  pavement  of  Buenos  Ayres,  but  it  went 
perfectly  sound  for  seven  hundred  miles,  and  was  then  only 
cut  by  some  sharp  granite  rocks  over  which  we  were  obliged 
to  drive."* 

Buenos  Ayrrs  is  voted  for  its  vast  plains  called  Pampas. 
That  on  (he  east  of  the  Cordillera  is  about  900  miles  in  breadth, 
and  is  dividied  into  regions  of  different  climate  and  produce. 
On  leaving  Buenos  Ayres,  the  first  of  these  regions  is  covered 
for  one  hundred  and  eighty  miles  with  clover  and  thistles;  the 
second  region,  which  extends  for  four  hundred  and  fifty  miles, 
produces  long  grass;  and  the  third  region,  which  reaches  the 
base  of  the  Cordillera,  is  a  grove  of  low  trees  and  shrubs.  The 
second  and  third  of  these  regions  have  nearly  the  same  ap- 
pearance throughout  the  j^ear,  for  the  trees  and  shrubs  are 
evergreens,  and  the  immense  plain  of  grass  only  changes  its 
color  from  green  to  brown;  but  the  first  region  varies  with  the 
four  seasons  of  the  year,  in  the  most  extraordinary  manner. 
In  winter,  the  leaves  of  the  thistle  are  large  and  luxuriant,  and 
the  whole  surface  of  the  country  has  the  rough  appearance  of 
a  turnip-field.  The  clover  in  this  season  is  extremely  rich  and 
strong,  and  the  sight  of  the  wild  cattle  grazing  in  full  liberty 
on  such  pasture  is  very  beautiful.  In  spring,  the  clov^er  has 
vanished,  the  leaves  of  the  thistle  have  extended  along  the 
ground,  and  the  country  still  looks  like  a  rough  crop  of  tur- 
nips.    In  less  than  a  month  the  change  is  most  extraordinary ; 

*  For  an  account  of  the  mode  in  which  the  Cordillera  is  passed,  the  reader 
is  referred  to  Chilis 


172  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

BUENOS  AYRE8. 

the  whole  ro2;ion  becomes  a  luxuriant  bed  of  enormous  this- 
tles, whtch  have  suddenly  shot  up  to  a  hoia;ht  of  ten  or  eleven 
feet,  and  are  all  in  full  IjIooiu.  The  road  or  path  is  hemmed 
in  on  both  sides;  the  view  is  completely  obstructed ;  not  an 
animal  is  to  be  seen  ;  and  the  stems  of  the  tliislles  are  so  close 
to  each  other,  and  so  stronp;,  that,  independent  f)f  the  prickles 
with  which  they  are  armed,  they  form  an  iiupenetrabic  barrier. 
The  sudden  growth  of  these  plants  is  cjuite  astonishing;  and 
though  it  would  be  an  unusual  misfortune  in  military  history, 
yet  it  is  really  possible  that  an  invading  army,  unacquainted 
with  this  country,  might  be  imprisoned  l)y  thes(>  tliistles  before 
they  had  time  to  escape  from  them.  Tht3  siunmer  is  not  over 
before  the  scene  undergoes  another  rapid  change  ;  the  thistles 
suddenly  lose  their  saj)  and  verdure,  their  heads  droop,  the 
leaves  shrink  and  fade,  the  stems  become  lilack  and  d(>a(i,  and 
they  remain  rattling  with  the  breeze,  one  tigainst  another,  until 
the  violence  of  the  pampero  or  hurricane  levels  them^  with  the 
ground,  where  they  rapidly  decompose  and  disappear;  the 
clover  rushes  up,  and  the  scene  is  again  verdant. 

The  climate  of  the  pampas  is  subject  to  a  great  difTiMence 
of  temperature  in  winter  and  summer,  though  the  gradual 
changes  are  very  regular.  The  winter  is  about  as  cold  as  our 
month  of  .\ovenil)('r,  and  the  ground  at  suurisi'  is  always  cov- 
ered with  white  frost,  but  the  ice  is  seldom  more  than  one 
tenth  of  an  inch  thick.  In  summer,  the  sun  is  very  oppress- 
ively hot,  and  its  force  is  acknowledged  by  every  living  ani- 
mal. The  wild  horses  and  cattle  are  evidently  exhausted  by 
it,  and  the  siesta  setMiis  to  be  a  repose  vvhicli  is  natural  and 
necessary  to  all.  The  middle  of  the  day  is  not  a  moment  for 
work;  and  as  the  mornings  are  cool,  the  latter  a«e  evidently 
best  ailajited  for  labor,  and  tlie  former  for  repose. 

Tin'  only  irregularily  in  the  climate  is  the  pampero,  or  south- 
west wind,  which,  generated  by  the  cold  air  of  the  Andes, 
rushes  over  these  vast  jilains  with  a  velocity  and  a  violence 
which  it  is  almost  impossible  to  withstand.  Hut  this  rapid  cir- 
culation of  the  atnu)sphere  has  very  benelicial  elfect.s,  and  the 
weather,  after  one  of  these  tcm])ests,  is  always  particularly 
healthy  and  agreeable. 

7^he  southrrn  part  nf  the  pampas  is  inhabited  by  Indians  who 
have  no  fixed  abodes,  but  wander  from  place  to  place,  as  the 
herbage  around  them  becomes  consumed  by  their  cattle. 
They  are  all  horsemen,  or  rather  pass  their  lives  on  horse- 
back. The  life  they  lead  is  singulaily  interesting.  In  spite  of 
the  climate,  which  is  burning  hot  in  summer,  and  freezing  in 
winter,  these  brave  men,  who  have  never  yet  been  subdued, 
are  entirely  naked,  and  have  not  even  a  covering  for  their 
head. 

Thr-y  live  together  in  tri/>ps,  each  of  which  is  governed  by  a 
caciquf' ;  but  they  have  no  fixed  place  of  residence.  Where 
the  pasture  is  good,  there  they  are  to  be  found,  until  it  is  con- 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  173 

INDIANS. — GAUCHOS. 


sumed  by  their  horses,  and  they  then  instantly  move  to  a  more 
verdant  spot.  They  have  neither  bread,  fruit,  nor  vegetables, 
but  they  subsist  entirely  on  the  flesh  of  their  mares,  which 
they  never  ride;  and  the  only  luxury  in  which  they  indulge  is 
that  of  washing  their  hair  in  mare's  blood. 

The  occupation  of  their  lives  is  war,  which  they  consider  is 
their  noble  and  most  natural  employment ;  and  they  declare 
that  the  proudest  attitude  in  the  human  figure  is  when,  bending 
over  his  horse,  man  is  riding  at  his  enemy.  The  principal 
weapon  which  they  useis  a  spear  eighteen  feet  long  ;  they  man- 
aire  it  with  great  dexterity,  and  are  able  to  give  it  a  tremulous 
hiotion,  whi'ch  has  often  shaken  the  sword  from  the  hand  of 
their  European  adversaries. 

From  being  constantly  on  horseback,  the  Indians  can  scarce- 
ly walk.  This  may  seem  singular,  but  from  their  infancy 
they  are  unaccustomed  to  it.  Living  in  a  boundless  plain,  it 
may  easily  be  conceived,  that  all  their  occupations  and  amuse- 
ments must  necessarily  be  on  horseback,  and  from  riding  so 
much,  the  legs  become  weak,  which  naturally  gives  a  disinclina- 
tion to  an  exertion  which  every  day  becomes  more  fatiguing ; 
besides,  the  pace  at  which  they  can  skim  over  the  plams  on 
horseback  is  so  swift  in  comparison  to  the  rate  they  could 
crawl  on  foot,  that  the  latter  must  seem  a  cheerless  exertion. 

They  believe  in  a.  future  state,  to  which  they  conceive  they 
will  be  transferred  as  soon  as  they  die.  They  expect  that  they 
will  then  be  constantly  drunk,  and  tha^t  they  will  always  be 
hunting;  and  as  the  Indians  gallop  over  their  plains  at  night, 
they  Will  point  with  their  spears  to  constellations  in  the  hea- 
vens, which  they  say  are  the  figures  of  their  ancestors,  who, 
reeling  in  the  firmament,  are  mounted  upon  horses  swifter 
than  the  wind,  and  are  hunting  ostriches. 

They  bury  their  dead,  but  at  the  grave  they  kill  several  of 
their  best  horses,  as  they  believe  that  their  friend  would  other- 
wise have  nothing  to  ride.  Their  marriages  are  very  simple. 
The  couple  to  be'married,  as  soon  as  the  sun  sets,  are  made  to 
lie  on  the  ground  v.ith  their  heads  towards  the  west.  They 
are  then  covered  witli  the  skin  of  a  horse,  and  as  soon  as  the 
sun  rises  at  their  feet,  they  are  pronounced  to  be  married. 

The  north  part  of  the  pampas  and  the  rest  of  the  provinces 
of  Rio  de  la  Plata  are  inhabited  by  small  groups  of  people 
-called  Gauckos,  of  whom  Captain  Head  has  given  the  following 
account. 

The  situation  of  Gaucho  is  naturally  independent  of  the  po- 
litical troubles  Mhich  engross  the  attention  of  the  inhabitants 
of  the  towns.  The  population  or  number  of  these  Gauchos  is 
very  small,  and  at  great  distances  from  each  other:  they  are 
scattered  here  and  there  over  the  face  of  the  country.  Many 
of  these  people  are  descended  from  the  best  families  inSpain; 
they  possess  good  manners,  and  often  very  noble  sentiments : 
the  life  they  lead  is  very  interesting— they  generally  inhabit 
15* 


174  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

BUENOS  AYRES. 

the  hut  in  which  they  were  born,  and  in  which  their  fathers 
and  grandfathers  Hved  before  them,  althoii2:ii  it  appears  to  a 
stranger  to  possess  few  of  the  allurements  of  dulcc  dnmum. 
The  huts  are  built  in  the  same  simple  form  ;  for  although  lux- 
ury hc-xs  ten  thousand  plans  and  eltn'ations  for  the  frail  abode 
of  its  more  frail  tenant,  yet  thr  hut  in  all  countries  is  the  same, 
and  therefore  there  is  no  dilt>reiice  between  that  of  the  South 
American  Gaucho,  and  the  Ilig-hlander  of  Scotland,  exceptinfjf 
that  the  former  is  Ijiiilt  of  mud,  and  covered  with  long  yellow 
grass,  while  the  other  is  formed  of  stones,  and  thatched  with 
heather. 

The  materials  of  both  are  the  immediate  produce  of  the  soil, 
and  both  are  so  blended  in  color  with  the  face  of  the  country, 
that  it  is  often  difficult  to  distinguish  them  ;  and  as  the  pace  at 
which  one  gallops  in  Soutii  America  is  rapid,  and  the  country 
flat,  one  scarcely  discovers  the  dwelling  before  one  is  at  th« 
door.  The  corral  is  about  fifty  or  one  hundred  yards  from  the 
hut,  and  a  circle  of  about  thirty  yards  in  diameter,  enclosed 
by  a  number  of  strong  rough  posts,  the  ends  of  which  are 
stuck  into  the  ground.  Upon  these  posts  are  generally  a 
number  of  idle  looking  vultures  or  hawks,  and  the  ground 
around  the  hut  and  corral  is  covered  with  bones  and  carcasses 
of  horses,  bullocks'  horns,  wool,  &c.  which  yive  it  the  smell  and 
appearance  of  an  ill  kept  dog-kennel  in  England. 

The  hut  consists  generally  of  one  room,  in  which  all  the 
family  live,  boys,  girls,  men,  women,  and  children,  all  huddled 
together.  The  kitchen  is  a  detached  shed  a  few  yards  oif: 
there  are  always  holes,  both  in  the  wails  and  in  the  roof  of  the 
hut,  which  one  at  first  considers  as  singular  marks  of  the  indo- 
lence of  the  peopl(\  In  th(>  .>-umm(M-  this  abode  is  so  filled  with 
fleas  and  binchucas.  (which  are  bugs  aslargf  as  black  beetles,) 
that  the  whole  family  sleep  on  the  grguud  in  front  of  their 
dwelling.* 

On  the.  pdwpas,  vhirh  afford  c.rc client  pa.ttitre^  innrimerahle 
herds  of  cuttle  rove  imvalued  and  luiowned,  their  hides  and 
tallow  alone  being  souirht  after  by  the  S|)aiiisli  hunters.  From 
the  3()th  iiarail'"!  of  latitude  southward,  great  niuubers  of  wild 
horses  arc  uxt  with,  the  progeny  of  tliose  imported  by  the 
Spaniards.  They  congregate  in  herds  of  s«n-eral  thousands; 
and  one  traveller  states,  that,  being  in  the.se  plains  for  three 
weeks,  he  was  continually  surrounded  by  them.  Sometimes 
they  jiassed  by  in  close  troo|)s  on  full  speed,  for  two  or  three 
hours  together.  At  other  time.<5,  the  same  district  has  been 
passed  over,  and  no  horses  have  iieen  seen.  They  are  said 
to  have  a  trick,  on  discovering  any  tame  horses,  which  they  do 
at  a  very  fjreat  distance,  of  forming  in  close  column,  galloping 
up,  and  surrounding  them  ;  or  perhaps  they  will  run  by  their 
side,  caressing  them,  gently  neighing,  and  finally  enticing 
them  away  with  them.     They  run  with  incredible  heedless- 

♦  Head's  NotcH. 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  175 

ANIMALS  ON  THE  PAMPAS. 

ness,  and,  when  pursued,  dash  themselves  against  any  object 
that  stands  in  their  way.  Astonishing  instances  of  this  wild- 
ness  are  seen  in  dry  years,  when  water  is  very  scarce  to  the 
south  of  Buenos  Ayres.  They  will  run  all  together,  as  if  they 
were  mad,  in  search  of  some  pond  or  lake ;  and  on  reaching 
it,  plunge  into  the  mud,  and  the  foremost  are  trampled  to  death 
by  those  that  follow.  Azara  r-elates,  that  he  has  more  than 
once  seen  upwards  of  a  thousand  carcasses  of  wild  horses  that 
have  perished  in  that  manner.  All  ©f  them  are  of  a  chestnut 
or  dark  bay  color.  The  domestic  horses  are  also  very  nume- 
rous, and  on  that  account  are  most  barbarously  used.  la 
Buenos  Ayres,  it  is  no  extraordinary  circumstance  to  see 
literally  a  beggar  on  horseback. 

.  Wihl  dogs  are  also  very  numerous  in  the  pampas.  They 
are  of  a  large  breed,  descended,  like  thev/ild  horses,  from  do- 
mestic animals  introduced  by  the  first  settlers.  They  are  gre- 
-garious,  and  several  will  join  to  attack  and  pursue  a  mare  or 
eow,  while  others  kill  the  foal  or  calf  In  this  way  they  make 
great  havoc.  In  consequence  of  their  formidable  numbers, 
tlie  government,  on  one  occasion,  sent  out  a  party  of  soldiers 
to  destroy  them,  who  killed  a  great  number;  but  the  ridicule 
cast  on  the  expedition  by  the  populace,  who  called  the  soldiers 
mataperros,  (dog  killers,)  prevented  the  renev/al  of  the  attempt. 

.  These  open  plains  are  also  the  haunt  of  the  emu,  or  Amer- 
ican ostrich.  In  parts  where  these  birds  are  not  hunted,  they 
will  appfoach  the  habitations  of  man,  and  are  not  disturbed  at 
the  siglft  of  foot  passengers;  but,  in  the  country,  where  they 
are  objects  of  pursuit  for  the  sake  of  their  skins  and  plumes, 
they  are  extremely  shy.  They  frequent  especially  the  marshy 
gi'ounds,  either  in  p;iirs,  or  in  troops  of  thirty  or  more.  They 
run  with  such  swiftness  that  only  good  horsemen  well  mounted 
can  overtake  them.  When  caught  by  means  of  balls,*  the  bird 
is  not  to  be  approached  withoiU  great  caution ;  for,  though  it 
does  not  strike  with  its  bill,  it  kicks  with  great  strength,  and 
is  said  to  be  capable  of  breaking  a  stone.  Vv^hen  running  at 
full  speed,  their  wings  ai^e  stretched  out  behind:  in  order  to 
turn,  they  open  one  wing,  and  the  wind  assists  them  to  wheel 
about  with  such  ra.pidity  as  to  throw  out  their  pursuer.  The 
ostrich,  when  young,  is  easily  domesticated,  and  will  become 
familiar  presently.  They  go  into  all  the  apartments,  walk 
about  the  streets,  and  in  the  country  sometimes  to  the  distance 
of  a  league,  and  return  to  their  homes.  They  are  full  of  cu- 
riosity, and  stop  at  the  windows  and  doors  of  houses,  to  ob- 
serve what  is  passing  within.  They  are  fed  with  grain,  bread, 
and  other  things;  they  likewise  swallow  pieces  of  money,  bits 
of  metal,  and  small  stones  which  they  pick  up.  The  flesh  of 
the  young  birds  is  tender  and  well  flavored,  but  not  that  of  the 

*  See  page  143. 


176  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

BUENOS  AYRE3. 


old  ones.  It  is  believed  that  they  never  drink  ;  they  are,  how- 
ever, excellent  swimmers,  and  will  cross  rivers  and  laixoons, 
even  when  nnt  piirsiird.  The  number  of  these  birds  dimin- 
ishes as  the  population  increases;  for,  thmii^h  it  is  diHiiult  to 
kill  them  with  fire-arms,  or  to  run  them  down  on  horseback, 
and  impossible  to  take  them  with  snares,  yet  every  one  is  eager 
to  searcii  for  their  ep;gs,  and  to  destroy  their  young. 

The  room  in  ichich  a  corpar  is  drposilfd  is  lighted  ;  large 
candles  are  placed  round  the  coffin  ;  and  the  wainscoting, 
tables,  c^c,  are  covered  with  white  furniture,  crosses,  &.c. 
The  windows  are  often  thrown  open,  for  passengers  to  view 
the  scene  of  death,  as  a  warning  that  "to  this  complexion  we 
must  come  at  last."  I  remember  my  surprise  on  first  seeing  a 
spectacle  of  this  sort.  The  corpse  of  a  female  about  thirty, 
lay  shrouded  in  her  coflin,  the  lid  of  which  was  taken  off,  with 
her  hands  folded  over  her  breast,  and  a  small  cross  placed  be- 
tween them.  The  gaudy  coffin,  and  the  lights  around  it,  gave 
it  the  appearance  of  wax  work  ;  indi>ed  I  had  an  impression 
that  it  was  so,  for  some  mniutes,  not  being  aware  of  the 
country's  fashion.  Deceased  persons  are  interred  twenty- 
four  hours  after  their  decease ;  a  necessary  precaution  in  a 
warm  climate. 

The  hearses  are  modelled  after  the  French  fashion,  and  are 
not  followed  by  motirners.  The  relatives  of  the  deceased  at-' 
tend  the  burial-ground  to  receive  the  body,  xind  the  church 
ceremonies  of  mass.  &c.,  take  place  some  days  after. 

The  death  of  .a  friar,  (»r  any  priest,  is  announced  by  a  par- 
ticular tolling  of  the  bell.  '^ 

The  masses  for  the  repose  of  the  soul  are  performed  at  va-  , 
rious  churches,  accordin-j;  1o  the  wish  of  the  relatives,  who  is- 
sue printed  notices,  iuviting  the  friends  of  the  deceased.  Any 
one  is  at  liberty  Xo  attend.  Those  of  respectability,  who  can 
afford  to  pay,  have  several  masses ;  but  it  is  rather  an  exi)en- 
sive  affair.  The  ceremony  la.sls  from  one  to  two  hours.  An 
imitation  coffin  is  plao(>d  near  the  altar,  surromided  hy  lights. 
If  it  be  for  a  military  or  public  ■nian,  the  sword  and  bait  are 
placed  on  the  coffin,  and  a  company  of  soldiers  fire  a  volley 
at  the  chinch  door.  Towards  the  end  of  the  mass,  candles 
are  put  into  the  hands  of  the  male  part  of  the  congregation, 
and  in  a  few  minutes  taken  fiom  tluMU  again  and  extinguished. 
At  the  close,  the  priests  and  friars.  I>eaded  by  their  superior, 
take  their  station,  in  two  lin«'s.  near  the  door,  and  receive  ana 
retinn  the  obeisances  of  the  congregation.  The  ri-lations  and 
particular  friends  adjourn  to  the  dwelling-house,  (sometimes 
to  the  refectory  of  the  church,)  where  a  rejiast  is  preiiared,  of 
cakes,  fruit,  wine,  liqueurs,  beer,  &c.,  the  room  being  liglited, 
and  hung  with  black  and  white  decorations.  I  have  heard 
some  charming  music  in  these  masses,  and  it  is  far  from  being 
an  unimpressive  scene:  the  holding  a  light  at  the  requiem  of 
those  we  loved,  carries  with  it  a  pleasing  idea. 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  177 

m  '      '         ' — .-™.— ^_— ^— ^*_^^_» 

INTERMENT  OF  THE  DEAD. 

On  the  subject  of  the  interment  of  the  dead,  Capt.  Head  re- 
marks: "the  house  which  I  had  near  Buenos  Ayres,  was  not 
only  opposite  tlie  English  burying'-grouud,  but  on  the  road  to 
the  Recoiata,  wliich  was  the  great  burying-place  for  the  town; 
about  half  a  dozen  funerals  passed  my  window  every  day,  and 
during  the  few  days  I  was  at  Buenos  Ayres,  I  scarcely  ever 
rode  into  the  town  without  meeting  one. 

"  Of  late  years,  a  few  of  the  jirincipal  people  have  been  bu- 
ried in  coffins,  but  generally  the  dead  are  called  for  by  a  hack- 
hearse,  in  which  there  is  a  fixed  coftin,  into  which  they  are 
put,  when  away  the  man  gallops  with  the  corpse,  and  leaves  it 
in  the  vestibule  of  the  Recoiata.  There  is  a  small  vehicle  for 
children,  which  I  really  thought  was  a  mountebank's  cart;  it 
was  a  light  open  tray,  on  wheels  painted  white,  with  light  blue 
silk  curtains,  and  driven  at  a  grillop  by  a  lad  dressed  in  scarlet, 
with  an  enormous  plume  of  white  feathers  in  his  hat.  As  I 
was  riding  home  one  day,  I  was  overtaken  by  this  cart,  (with- 
out its  curtains,  &c.,)  in  which  there  was  the  corpse  of  a  black 
boy,  nearly  naked.  1  galloped  along  with  it  for  some  distance; 
the  boy,  from  the  rapid  motion  of  the  carriage,  was  dancing, 
sometimes  on  his  bade  and  sometimes  on  his  fdce  ;  occasion- 
ally his  arm  or  leg  would  get  through  the  bar  of  the  tray,  and 
two  or  three  times  I  really  thought  the  child  would  have  been 
out  of  the  tray  altogether.  The  bodies  of  the  rich  were  gene- 
rally attended  by  their  friends  ;  but  the  carriages,  with  four 
people  in  each,  were  seldom  able  to  go  as  fast  as  the  hearse. 

"1  went  one  day  to  the  Recoiata,  and  just  as  I  got  there,  the 
little  hearse  drove  up  to  tlie  gate.  The  man  who  had  charge 
of  the  burial-place  received  from  the  driver  u  ticket,  which  he 
read,  and  put  into  his  pocket;  the  driver  then  got  into  the 
'  tray,  and  taking  out  a  dead  infant  of  about  eight  months  old, 
he  gave  it  to  the  man,  who  carried  it  swinging  by  one  of  its 
arms  into  the  square-walled  burial-ground,  and  I  followed  him. 
He  went  to  a  spot  about  ten  yards  from  the  corner,  and  then, 
Vv'ithout  putting  his  foot  upon  the  spade,  or  at  all  lifting  up  the 
ground,  he  scratched  a  place  not  so  deep  as  the  furrow  of  a 
plough.  While  he  was  doing  this,  the  poor  little  infant  was 
lying  before  us  on  the  ground  on  its  back ;  it  had  one  eye 
open,  and  the  other  shut ;  its  face  M'as  unwashed,  and  a  small 
piece  of  dirty  cloth  was  tied  round  its  middle:  the  man,  as  he 
was  talking  to  me,  placed  the  child  in  the  little  farrow,  pushed 
its  arms  to  its  side  with  the  spade,  and  covering  it  so  barely 
with  earth  that  part  of  the  cloth  was  still  visible,  he  walked 
away  and  left  it.  I  took  the  spade,  and  was  going  to  bury  the 
poor  child  myself,  when  I  recollected  that  as  a  stranger  I  should 

frobably  give  offence,  and  I  therefore  walked  towards  the  gate, 
met  the  same  man  with  an  assistant,  carrying  a  tray,  in  which 
was  the  body  of  a  very  old  man,  followed  by  his  son,  who  was 
about  forty ;  the  party  were  all  quarrelling,  and  remained  dis- 
puting for  some  minutes  after  they  had  brought  the  body  to 
the  edge  of  the  trench.    This  trench  was  about  seven  feet 


178  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 


CHILE. 


broad,  and  had  been  dug  fiom  one  wall  of  the  burial-ground 
to  the  other :  the  corpses  were  buried  across  it  by  fours,  one 
above  another,  and  there  was  a  moveable  shutter  which  went 
perpendicularly  across  the  trench,  and  was  moved  a  step  for- 
wards as  soon  as  the  fourth  body  was  interred.  One  body 
liad  already  been  interred;  tiie  son  junij)ed  down  upon  it,  and 
while  he  was  thus  in  the  grave,  standing  upon  the  body,  and 
leaning  against  three,  the  two  grave-diggers  gave  him  his  fa- 
ther, who  was  dressed  in  a  long,  coarse,  wliit(>  linen  shirt 
The  grave  was  so  narrow  that  the  man  had  great  difficulty  ir 
laying  the  body  in  it,  but  as  soon  as  he  had  done  so,  he  ad 
dressed  the  lifeless  corpse  of  his  father,  and  embraced  it  with 
a  great  deal  of  feeling;  the  situation  f)f  the  fa(li(>r  and  son,  al- 
though so  very  unusual,  seemed  at  the  moment  any  thing  but 
unnatural.  In  scrambling  out  of  the  grave,  the  man  very  near- 
ly knocked  a  woman  out  of  the  tier  of  corpses  at  his  back; 
and  as  soon  as  he  was  up,  the  two  attendants,  with  their  spades, 
threw  cartii  down  uj)on  the  face  ami  (he  wiiite  dress  of  the  old 
man,  until  both  were  covered  with  a  very  thin  layer  of  earth  : 
the  two  men  then  jumped  down  with  heavy  wooden  rammers, 
and  they  really  rammed  the  corjise  in  that  sort  of  way,  that, 
had  the  m;iii  been  alive,  he  would  have  been  killed  ;  and  we 
then  all  walked  away." 


6.  CHILE. 

This  country,  the  manners  and  cu'=;toms  of  whose  inhabitants 
we  propose  next  to  survey,  lies  to  the  v>est  of  Buenos  Ayres, 
and  is  sejiarated  from  it  by  the  Andes,  some  of  the  simniiits  of 
which  have  been  estimated  at  upwards  of  i^O.OOO  f -et.  We 
shall  have  occasion,  in  a  subsequent  page,  to  describe  more 
jiarticularly  the  manner  in  which  the  passage  is  commonly 
madf  IVdui  I>uenos  Ayres  to  Chile;  it  will  therefore  suffice  in 
this  place  to  observe,  that  to  ordinary  travellers,  the  Andes  are 
impassable,  excepting  in  the  sunnuer  season,  and  under  the 
most  favorable  circumst.inces,  is  attended  with  inuninent  dan- 
ger. But  in  (HIT  passage,  which  of  our  fellow  travellers  has 
thought  of  danger  / — no  spouting  volcaiu)  has  alaiined  us — and 
no  mountain  torrent  has  threatened  us.  We  ri.se  with  the  ease 
with  whicii  the  strong-pinioned  condor  lifts  herself<iver  the  tow- 
ering crags  and  summits  of  these  "heaven-disturbing  nictun- 
taiiis," — and  descend  as  safely  as  does  the  skilful  aeronaut  on 
his  retiun  from  some  aerial  excursion  to  the  "  low-lying  lands 
below." 

Chile  is  a  large  coimtry— in  length  1200  miles,  and  iri 
breadth  .300,  with  an  area  of  17.5,000  square  miles.  Its  pop- 
ulation has  been  variously  estimated.  In  IBviO,  Malte  Brun 
put  it  at  !.»JO,000 ;  a  later  w'riter  has  stated  it,  said  to  be  found- 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  179 


POPDLATION  OP  CHILE. 


ed  on  a  census,  at   1,200,000,  exclusive  of  independent  In- 
dians. 

The  population  of  Chile  consists  principally  of  Spaniards,  or 
people  of  Spanish  descent,  Indians,  and  Mestizoes,  with  a  few 
French,  English,  Irish,  Itahans^  and  Negroes.  The  whole 
number  of  these  several  classes  may  be  from  one  million  to 
twelve  hundred  thousand.  The  wealthier  inhabitants  are  in 
o-eneral  fond  of  splendor  and  magnificence,  which  appear  in 
their  dress  and  equipage.  The  fashions  are  directed  by  those 
of  Lima.  Byron,  who  resided  for  some  time  in  the  country, 
gives  the  following  description  of  the  manners  and  customs  of 
St.  .Tago.  "  In  their  assemblies  many  intrigues  are  carried  on, 
for  they  think  of  nothing  else  through  the  year.  Their  fandan- 
goes are  very  agreeable.  The  women  dance  inimitably ;  most 
of  them  have  delightful  voices,  and  all  play  upon  the  guitar 
and  harp  ;  on  the  harp,  they  excel  every  other  nation.  They 
are  extremely  polite  ;  and  when  asked  either  to  play,  dance, 
or  sing,  they  do  it  without  a  moment's  hesitation,  and  that  with 
an  exceeding  good  grace.  They  have  many  figure  dances; 
but  what  they  take  most  delight  in  are  more  like  our  hornpipes, 
than  any  thing  I  can  compare  them  to,  and  upon  these  occa- 
sions they  show  surprising  agility.  The  women  are  remarka- 
bly handsome,  and  very  extravagant  in  their  dress.  Their 
hair,  which  is  very  thick,  they  wear  of  great  length,  without 
any  other  ornament  upon  the  head  than  a  few  flowers.  They 
plat  it  behind  in  four  plats,  and  twist  it  round  a  bodkin,  at 
each  end  of  which  is  a  diamond  rose.  In  winter,  they  have  an 
upper  waistcoat  of  cloth  of  gold  or  silver,  and,  in  summer,  of 
the  finest  linen  covered  with  the  finest  Flanders  lace.  When 
they  go  abroad,  they  wear  a  veil,  which  is  so  contrived  that 
one  eye  only  is  seen.  Their  feet  are  small,  and  they  value 
themselves  as  much  upon  it  as  the  Chinese  do.  Their  breasts 
and  shoulders  are  almost  naked,  and  indeed  you  may  easily 
discover  the  whole  shape  from  their  manner  of  dress.  They 
have  fine  sparkling  eyes,  ready  wit,  a  great  deal  of  good  na- 
ture, and  a  strong  disposition  to  gallantry.  Paraguay  tea, 
which  they  call  niatte,  is  always  drunk  twice  a  day.  They 
drink  it  through  the  conveyance  of  a  long  silver  tube,  at  the 
end  of  which  is  a  round  strainer  to  prevent  the  herb  getting 
through.  And  here  it  is  reckoned  a  piece  of  politeness  in  the 
lady,  \o  suck  the  tube  two  or  three  times  first,  and  then  give 
it  to  the  stranger  without  wiping  it.  They  eat  every  thing  so 
highly  seasoned  with  red  pepper,  that  those  who  are  not  used 
to  it,  upon  the  first  mouthful,  would  imagine  their  throats  on 
fire  for  an  hour  afterwards.  The  ladies  sit  cross-legged, 
after  the  Moorish  fashion,  upon  the  estrado,  which  is  a  plat- 
form raised  about  five  or  six  inches  above  the  floor,  and 
covered  with  carpets  and  velvet  cushions.  The  commion 
vehicle  is  a  calash  or  vis-a-vis,  drawn  by  one  mule  only. 


180  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 


CHILE. 


Bull  feasts  are  a  common  diversion  here,  and  surpass   any 
tliiii'^  of  that  kind  I  ever  saw  at  Lisbon,  or  anywhere  else. 

The  pcastnits  are  a  healthy  and  robust  race  of  men,  chiefly 
consistinir  of  Creoles.  They  are  bold  and  dexterous  horse- 
men, fond  of  ridinjr,  and  almost  always  on  the  saddle.  They 
are  amazinprly  expert,  also,  in  the  use  of  the  laqui*  which  is 
their  principal  weapon,  employing  it  on  all  occasions,  both  in 
Imnting  and  in  their  jirivate  quarrels.  The  Spanish  Creoles 
possess  all  the  estimable  and  engaging  qualities  which  charac- 
terize those  of  English  and  French  descent.  They  are  brave, 
active,  and  enter))rising,  frank  in  their  manners,  and  of  the 
strictest  lionor.  Their  prejudices  are  easily  eradicated  ;  their 
temper  is  generous  and  unsuspecting,  but  at  the  same  time  ar- 
dent and  impetuous  in  the  pursuit  of  pleasure,  and  too  fre- 
quently transports  them  beyond  the  strict  bounds  of  modera- 
tion. They  are  fond  of  learning,  and  possess  a  degree  of 
penetration,  siigacily,  and  corieclness  of  tliought,  that  might 
ensure  success  in  almost  any  study. 

The  Spanish  inhabitants,  in  general,  are  of  a  hospitable  and 
generous  disposition.  As  but  few  inns  have  been  established 
in  the  country,  tlieir  houses  are  at  all  times  ojien  to  strangers 
and  travellers,  whom  they  entertain  with  a  degree  of  kindness 
and  liberality  unequalled  almost  among  any  other  people. 

^^'e  may  here  notice  a  anrment  of  very  general  use,  both 
among  Indians  and  Spaniards,  which,  though  differing  in 
quality  and  ornament,  according  to  tlie  rank  of  the  wearer, 
retains  always  its  peculiar  and  di.stinguishing  form  :  it  is  called 
poncho,  and  consists  of  a  piece  of  quilted  cloth,  about  three 
yards  in  length  and  two  in  breadth,  huvir.g  an  opening  in  the 
middle  just  large  enough  to  admit  the  head.  It  hangs  down  on 
all  sides,  serving  completely  the  purposes  of  a  cloak,  while  it 
leaves  the  motion  of  the  arms  more  free  and  unembarrassed- 

The  negroes  are  wholly  employed  in  domestic  services,  and 
tr<^ated  with  a  degree  of  tenderness  and  humanity  thiit  greatly 
alleviates  their  state  of  servitude.  They  are  protected  from 
any  extreme  cruelty  on  the  part  of  their  mastiMs,  should  these 
be  so  inclined,  by  a  law  permitting  the  slave,  in  a  case  of  this 


.,1  mi,,  1.  K"  ^--t >•■  ••-  •■"■•  ..v.-..v...^, iiH'ir(!Ctiinl.'    Ht!  re- 

JjitC'S  an  insuinro  of  llicir  uiidrifs,  with  rcyaiJ  In  an  Knt^liKliman  whom  Jie 
knew  at  Concrpiion.  This  tnaii  wii>i  in  ihf  Tonij-hiiat  of  a  privniofr  tlnii  lying 
in  Conception  liny,  inii  mlinR  to  land  nt  'I'nlrnciinnri,  with  n  yiiw  of  iilundcr- 
ioK  the  nti'4ht)i>riii;.'  \illai;cs,  whcii  n  hody  of  ihc  cowiiiry  n)ilitia  mmle  to  the 
liliort",  in  order  to  oppo-ie  tlitni.  Upon  litis,  the  ^:^n^;h^'b  fired  upon  them  with 
their  iiin-keiry ;  an  i  no  f^ooncr  hnd  they  dis<liar:.'ed  th(  ir  pieces,  ilian  one  of 
thf."  pcasnnt-*,  thoiiuh  the  hoal  wii.t  nl  a  consifliTaliledi?tnnce,  threw  Ins  noose, 
and,  nolwiti)»'tan(iinR  nil  in  the  hoai  llinw  themselves  on  their  faces,  he 
noost-d  thf!  ntiove  nimiioncd  p(  rson,  pulling  Inm  out  of  the  l)oM  with  the 
greatest  rnpidiiv,  while  the  others,  instead  of  endeavorinp  to  save  him,  thought 
of  nothing  in  tfieir  fright  but  liow  to  ^el  out  of  danger  ns  soon  as  possible. 


"UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  181 

VALPARAISO. — BOLL  FIGHTS. 

nature  to  demand,  and  obliging  the  master  to  grant,  a  Utter  of 
sale,  by  which  the  former  is  authorized  to  seek  a  purchaser. 
There  exists,  also,  another  regulation  in  their  favor,  which  has 
the  force  of  law  among  the  inhabitants,  that  when  any  one  has, 
by  his  industry  or  good  conduct,  acquired  a  sum  of  money 
sufficient  to  purchase  a  substitute,  his  master  is  bound  to  re- 
ceive it,  and  set  him  at  liberty.  Negroes  born  in  the  country, 
and  mulattoes,  are  preferred  to  such  as  have  been  imported, 
as  more  readily  attaching  themselves  to  the  families  of  their 
owners. 

Valparaiso: — This  city  stands  on  a  fine  bay  of  the  Pacific 

Ocean,  and  forms  the  port  of  Santiago,  the  capital  of  Chile. 

Captain  Hall,  who  visited  this  place  in  1S20,  has  given  us  an 

■extended  description  of  the  manners,  &c.,  of  its  inhabitants. 

We  select  the  following  : 

"  We  were  fortunate  in  having  reached  Valparaiso  at  a  mo- 
inent  when  the  Christmas  festivities  were  at  their  height,  and 
multitudes  of  people  had  been  attracted  from  the  country  to 
witness  the  bull-fights  and  other  shows.  On  the  evening  of 
Christmas  day,  which  corresponds  nearly  with  our  mid-sum- 
mer, everybody  seemed  to  be  abroad  enjoying  the  cool  air  in 
the  moonlight.  Groups  of  merry  dancers  were  to  be  seen  on 
every  hand — and  crowds  of  people  listening  to  singers  bawling 
out  their  old  romances  to  the  sound  of  a  guitar ;  gay  parties 
sauntered  along,  laughing  and  talking  at  the  full  stretch  of 
their  voices;  wild-looking  horsemen  pranced  about  in  all  quar- 
ters, mixing  amongst  the  people  on  foot,  drinking  and  talking 
with  them,  but  never  dismounting.  From  one  extremity  of  the 
town  to  the  other,  along  the  base  of  the  cliffs,  and  all  round 
the  beach  of  the  Almendral,  was  one  uninterrupted  scene  of 
noise  and  revelry. 

"  The  bull-fights,  which  took  place  about  four  o'clock  in  the 
day,  resembled  anything  rather  than  fights;  but  they  made 
the  people  laugh,  which  was  the  principal  object ;  and  by 
bringing  a  crowd  together  in  a  merry  mood,  contributed  quite 
:  as  much  to  the  general  happiness  as  if  they  had  been  exhibited 
in  the  usual  sanguinary  manner. 

''The  area  in  which  the  bulls  were  baited,  for  they  were  not 
killed,  was  a  square  enclosure,  formed  by  a  temporary  build- 
ing about  fifty  yards  across,  rudely  constructed  of  posts  driven 
into  the  ground,  wattled  with  green  boughs,  and  roofed  with 
planks.  Over  two  sides  of  the  square  v,'as  erected  a  second 
story,  divided  into  compartments  by  flags,  and  left  open  at  top, 
and  in  front;  these  were  crowded  withladies  and  children,  all 
in  their  gayest  attire,  and  seated  v/ith  much  formality  and  de- 
corum to  witness  the  show.  The  scene  in  the  ground  floor, 
which  was  divided  into  booths  called  Ramadas,  was  of  a  very 
different  description — here  was  dancing,  singing,  drinking,  and 
all  kinds  of  noise  and  bustle.  Previous  to  the  commencement 
•  of  the  bull-fight,  the  area  was  filled  with  people,  some  loung- 
16 


JS2  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 


CHILE. 


ing  about  smoking  their  cigans,  and  admiring  the  ladies' 
dresses,  and  some  risking  their  money  at  lionpe  et  Noir,  for 
which  there  were  many  tables  brought  from  the  booths  into 
the  open  air.  IJut  the  chief  interest  lay  within  tlie  Ramadas, 
in  each  of  which  was  to  be  found  a  band  of  musicians  and 
dancers  hired  to  attract  company.  Tneir  instruments  were 
invariably  a  harp,  a  guitar,  and  a  sort  of  drum.  The  harp  is 
held  in  a  ditferent  mannt^r  from  ours;  for,  instead  of  standing 
erect,  it  is  kept  in  a  horizontal  position,  the  top  of  the  instru- 
ment resting  on  the  lap  of  the  player,  who  sits  on  a  low  stool. 
The  drum  is  made  of  a  piece  of  wnini  hollowed  out,  and  cov- 
ered at  one  end  with  raw  hide.  This  stands  on  the  ground, 
and  is  patted  with  the  fingers,  while  the  wrist  rests  ujinn  the 
rim.  At  times  the  end  of  the  harp,  or  the  empty  guitar  box,  is 
used  as  a  substitute,  or  any  thing,  indeed,  which  gives  a  clear 
hollow  sound.  The  players,  in  general,  are  also  singers,  and 
the  voice  mingles  more  or  less,  at  all  times,  with  the  instru- 
mental music.  They  sing  mostly  in  a  high  shrill  tone,  disa- 
greeable at  first  to  a  stranger,  but"  in  the  course  of  a  little  time 
it  recommends  itself  to  his  ear,  in  a  manner  which  his  judg- 
ment scarcely  allows  to  be  just.  Occasionally  they  sing  in  a 
lower  tone,  when  the  notes  are  very  sweet  and  pltnisimj;  but 
we  had  reason  to  suspect,  that  this  was  due  to  the  accidental 
good  taste  of  the  singer,  rising  superior  to  the  general  practice 
of  the  country. 

"  The  bull-fights  are  very  boyish  exhibitions,  and  deserve 
no  particular  description.  The  animals,  in  fact,  were  never 
killed,  but  merely  teased  by  horsemen,  who  goaded  them  with 
blunt  spears,  or  distracted  by  men  on  foot  who  waved  flans  in 
their  faces,  and,  when  the  bulls  were  irritated,  escaped  over 
the  railings  into  the  Raniada.s. 

"The  chief  interest,  to  us  at  least,  lay  in  the  people,  whose 
various  dresses  we  were  never  tired  of  looking  at,  while  the  in- 
terpretation of  their  strange  language  gave  us  ample  occupa- 
tion ;  for  although  they  all  professed  to  speak  Spanish,  their 
dialect  was  strongly  marki-d  with  a  hjcal  idiom  and  pronuncia- 
tion. But  although  every  thing  was  new  to  us,  and  partook 
more  or  less  of  a  characteristic  air,  it  is  not  easy  to  describe, 
chiefly  from  its  want  of  resemblance  to  any  thing  we  have  be- 
fore witnessed. 

"  I  met  at  the  Ramadas,  one  evening,  a  family  to  whose  at- 
tentions 1  am  nuith  indebted,  especially  for  their  assistance  in 
explaining  the  native  customs.  We  visited  together  many  of 
the  bootlis,  and  had  an  op))ortunity  of  seeing  more  of  the  dan- 
cing than  on  the  tirst  night.  Oin"  of  their  favorite  fi^nircs  begins 
in  a  manner  not  unlike  om-  miniK-t,  with  slow  and  apparent- 
ly unpremeditated  movements;  the  parties  apprnarliing  and 
receding  from  each  other,  occasionally  joining  hands,  swing-^ 
intr  themselves  roimd.  and  sometimes  .stooping  so  as  to  pass 
under  each  others  arms.  These  figures  admit  the  display  of 
much  ease  and  grace,  but  inevitably  betray  any  awkwardness 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  1S3 

VALPARAISO. — iMANNERS. 

)f  manner.  The  slow  movements  last  a  minute  or  two,  after 
which  the  measure  suddenly  changes  from  a  dull  monotonous 
tune  to  a  quick  and  varied  air,  loudly  accompanied  by  the 
drum  and  all  the  voices.  At  this  instant  the  dancers  commence 
a  sort  of  shuffling  step,  during  which  the  feet  do  not  slide  along 
the  ground,  but  make,  with  great  rapidity,  a  number  of  short 
stampings.  At  tiie  moment  of  this  change  in  time,  the  dancers 
dart  forward  towards  each  other,  waving  their  handkerchiefs 
affectedly  before  them.  They  do  not  actually  meet,  but,  when 
almost  touching,  pass,  and  continue  to  revolve  round  each 
other,  in  circles" larger  or  smaller,  according  to  the  space  al- 
lowed, accompanying  these  rotatory  motions  by  various  ges- 
ticulations, especially  that  of  waving  their  iiandkerchiefs  over 
their  partner's  head."^  There  was  a  striking  difference  between 
the  manner  in  which  these  dances  were  performed  by  the  towns- 
people, and  by  the  Guassos,  or  countrymen,  the  latter  having 
always  the  advantatre  both  in  skill  and  in  elegance. 

"  These  amusements  lasted  throughout  the  night,  and,  al- 
though the  people  are  naturally  temperate,  it  was  evident,  that 
towards  morning  the  dances  were  apt  to  acquire  a  more  sav- 
age character,  and  the  songs  to  become  licentious.  But  there 
\vere  very  few  instances  of  intoxication  or  riotous  behavior. 
No  women,  except  those  professionally  attached  to  the  band 
of  music,  ever  dance  ;  but  as  the  men  of  all  classes  join  occa- 
sionally, the  floor  is  seldom  long  unoccupied,  no  more  than  one 
couple  ever  standing  up  at  the  same  time.  Each  figure  lasts 
about  three  or  four  'minutes,  after  which  the  music  stops  for  a 
few  seconds,  and  is  then  resumed,  this  being  always  repeated 
three  times.  The  fondness  of  the  populace  for  this  amusement 
is  so  remarkable,  that  I  have  often  returned  to  one  of  the  Ra- 
madas  after  an  interval  of  several  hours,  and  found  the  same 
people  still  looking  on  at  the  same  dance  with  undiminished 
pleasure." 

"  The  merchants  and  other  principal  inhabitants  reside  in 
the  houses  built  along  the  base  of  the  clilfs  in  Valparaiso,  and 
along  the  streets  of  the  Almendral.  But  the  poorer  people  live 
chiefly  in  the  (iuebradas.  or  ravines.  This  class  of  society 
had  been  the  least  affected  by  the  changes  in  the  political  state 
of  the  country,  and  retained,  as  we  were  informed,  the  same 
manners  and  habits  as  before;  a  circumstance  which  gave 
them  a  higher  interest  to  us,  and  we  frequently  roved  about  in 
the  cool  hours  of  evening,  amongst  their  ranchas,  or  cottages, 
and  were  everywhere  received  with  the  utmost  frankness,  and, 
as  far  as  the  simple  means  of  the  inhabitants  went,  with  hos- 
pitality. They  were  chiefly  brickmakers,  day-laborers,  and 
washerwomen,  who  were  always  gratified  by  the  interest  we 
took  in  their  affairs,  replying  readily  and  cheerfully  to  our 
inquiries.  Their  first  anxiety  was  that  we  should  be  seated, 
in  order,  to  use  their  phrase,  that  we  might  feel  ourselves  in 
our  own  house;  their  next  wish  was,  that  we  should  taste 


ISl  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 


CHtLE. 


something,  no  matter  liow  little;  some  offered  us  spirits,  or 
milk  and  bread;  others,  wiio  conld  afford  nothinfr  else,  pre- 
sented a  cup  of  water.  Yet,  however  wretched  tiie  cottage, 
or  poor  the  fare,  the  deficiency  was  never  made  more  ap- 
parent by  a{xilo£ries.  Witii  untaught  poMteness,  the  best 
they  had  was  placed  before  us,  graced  with  a  hee.rly  wel- 
come. 

"  These  rancluis,  as  well  as  the  housef?  in  the  town,  are  built 
of  large  Hat  brick  dried  in  the  sun,  and  thntched  with  broad 
palm  leaves,  the  ends  of  which,  by  oveihanging  the  walls,  af- 
ford shade,  as  well  as  shelter  from  the  rain.  Each  cottage  is 
divided  into  two  rooms;  one  for  the  beds,  the  other  as  a  dining- 
room,  a  portion  of  the  mud  floor  of  which  is  always  raisccl 
seven  or  eight  inches  above  the  level  of  the  other  parts,  and 
being  covered  with  mats,  serves  as  a  couch  for  the  siesla- 
sleepers  after  dinner. 

•In  one  cottage  we  found  a  young  woman  grinding  corn 
in  a  very  pritnitive  mill,  consisting  of  two  stones,  °one  a. 
large  grooved  block  placed  on  the  gioimd,  the  other  a  polish- 
ed piece  about  twice  the  size  of  lier  hand.  The  unsround 
corn  appeared  to  be  baked  till  it  would  crumble  into  powder 
between  the  finger  and  thumb,  and  the  coarse  flour,  when 
mixed  with  water,  made  an  agreeable  drink,  called  Ulpa. 

■'  In  some  of  the  Qui'bradas.  we  occasionally  discovered 
houses  of  a  better  class,  generally  occupied  by  elderly  ladies 
of  slender  incomes,  who  had  relinquished  the  fashionable  and 
expensive  parts  of  the  town,  for  more  remote,  though  not  h>ss 
comfortublf  dwellings.  Nothing  could  exceed  the  nt'atiiess  and 
regularity  which  reigned  in  these  houses,  where  we  were  often 
received  by  the  inmates  with  a  politeness  of  manners,  indica- 
ting that  they  had  knov.-n  better  days.  Th'-se  good  ladies  gen- 
erally entertained  us  with  the  celebrated  J'araguay  tea,  called 
inalle,  a  bevera^'e  of  which  the  inhabitants  are  passionately 
fond.  Befitre  infusion,  the  Ytrha,  as  it  is  called,  has  a  yellow 
color,  and  appears  partly  ground,  and  partly  chopped  ;  the  fla- 
vor resembles  that  of  fine  tea,  to  which,  indeed,  many  people 
prefer  it.  The  matte  is  made  in  an  oval-shaped  metal  pot, 
about  twice  as  large  as  an  egg,  placed  nearly  full  of  water,  on 
the  hot  embers  of  the  brazier,  which  stands  at  all  sea.sons  of 
the  year  in  the  middle  of  a  parlor  ;  when  the  water  begins  to 
boil,  a  lump  of  sugar  burnt  on  the  outside  is  added.  The  pot 
is  next  removed  to  a  filagree  silver  stand,  on  which  it  is  hand- 
ed to  the  guest,  who  draws  the  matte  into  his  mouth  through  a 
silver  pipe  seven  or  eight  inches  in  length,  furnished,  at  the 
lower  extremity,  with  a  bulb  pierced  with  small  holes.  The 
natives  drink  it  almost  boiling  hot,  and  it  costs  a  stranger  many 
a  tear  before  he  can  imitate  them  in  this  respect.  There  is 
one  custom  in  these  matte  drinkings,  to  which,  though  not  ea- 
sily reconcilable  to  our  habits,  a  stranger  must  not  venture  to 
object.  However  numerous  th«'  company  may  be,  or  however 
often  the  matte  pot  be  replenished,  the  tube  is  never  changed; 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  185 

■       "     \ 

ACCOUNT  OF  A  CHILEAN  DINNER. 

and  to  decline  taking  matte,  because  the  tube  had  been  previ- 
ously used,  would  be  thought  the  height  of  rudeness.  A  gen- 
tleman of  my  acquaintance,  becoming  very  fond  of  this  beve- 
rage, bought  a  tube  for  himself,  and  carried  it  constantly  in  his 
pocket;  but  this  gave  so  much  oflence,  that  he  was  eventually 
obliged  to  relinquish  it. 

The  following  is  Capt.  Hail's  account  of  a  Chilean  dinner  : 
"  We  sat  down  to  dinner,  a  very  merry  party,  the  master  of 
the  house  insisting  upon  my  taking  the  head  of  the  table  ;  a 
custom,  he  said,  that  could  by  no  means  be  dispensed  with. 
The  first  dish  which  was  placed  on  the  table  was  bread  soup, 
exceedingly  good,  and  cooked  either  with  fish  or  meat,  a  dis- 
tinction so  immaterial,  we  thought,  that  our  surprise  was  con- 
siderable when  we  observ^cd  a  gentleman  of  the  party  start  up, 
and,  with  a  look  as  if  he  had  swallowed  poison,  exclaim,  "  O 
Lord,  there  is  fish  in  this  soup  !"  and  while  we  were  wonder- 
ing at  this  exclamation,  our  friend  ran  off  to  the  kitchen  to  in- 
terrogate the  cook.  He  returned  with  a  most  wo-begone  look, 
and  finished  his  plate  of  soup  as  if  it  had  been  the  last  he  was 
ever  to  taste.  A  feeling  of  delicacy  prevented  our  asking  ques- 
tions, although  our  curiosity  was  raised  to  the  highest  pitch,  by 
observing  the  gentleman  touch  nothing  else,  but  literally  go 
without  iiis  diniier.  It  was  Friday,  and  it  was  in  Lent,  which 
might  have  accounted  for  his  horror  at  meat;  but  it  was  fish 
which  had  shocked  him  ;  besides,  we  saw  the  rest  of  the  com- 
pany eating  both  without  scruple,  which  puzzled  us  exceeding- 
ly, and  the  more  so,  as  the  sekT-denying  individual  was  a  very 
sensible  man,  and  showed  no  other  symptoms  of  eccentricity. 
We  at  last  discovered  that  he  had,  for  some  reason  or  other, 
come  under  a  religious  engagement  not  to  eat  both  fish  and 
flesh,  though  the  South  Americans  are  permitted  to  do  so, 
by  an  express  bull  in  their  favor,  and  it  so  happened  that 
he  had  set  his  fancy,  this  day  most  particularly,  on  a  meat 
dish  close  to  him,  never  dreaming  of  what  had  been  put  into 
the  soup  ;  fish  once  tasted,  however,  his  feast  was  at  an  end, 
and  he  kept  his  vow  in  a  manner  worthy  of  an  anchorite. 

"  We  had  then  the  Olla.,  a  dish  celebrated  in  all  lands  where 
Spanish  is  spoken.  It  consists  of  boiled  beef,  piled  round  with 
all  sorts  of  vegetables,  and  well  covered  with  a  large  yellow 
pea  called  a  Garbanza ;  and  so  inseparable  is  this  union,  that 
our  "  beans  and  bacon"  is  not  better  known  in  English,  even  in 
a  proverbial  sense,  than  "  011a  con  Garbanza"  is  in  Spanish. 
Besides  these  dishes,  we  had  various  rich  stews,  and,  last  of 
all,  a  dish  of  roast  beef,  not  in  the  smallest  degree  resembling, 
however,  the  glorious  roast  beef  of  Old  England ;  but  a  long 
thin  strip  of  dry  burnt-up  meat,  without  a  single  bone  to  give  it 
a  shape,  and  with  every  bit  of  fat  cut  away.  Meanwhile,  we 
finished  our  dinner,  and  partook  of  a  capital  dessert  of  cool 
bursting  figs,  fresh  from  the  trees  within  sight  of  the  table  ;  as 
were  the  luscious  sweet  grapes,  the  pride  of  our  host's  heart; 
16* 


18C  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

CHILE. 

and,  lastly,  the  enormous  purple  watermelon,  the  staff  of  life 
amongst  the  poorer  classes  in  this  country :  to  all  which  was 
added  a  pleasant  small  wine,  manufactured  by  the  hands  of 
our  absent  hostess. 

"The  whole  sc<'ne  was  characteristic  of  the  country.  We 
sat  in  the  cross  draught  of  two  doors  and  numerous  windows, 
enjoying  the  balmy  air  as  it  passed  throuj;h  the  house,  whisk- 
ing, in  its  course,  the  dried  fig  and  vine  leaves  along  the  floor. 
On  one  side,  we  could  see  along  tlie  gravel  walks  of  the  gar- 
den, stretching  under  trellised  vines,  and  shaded  by  a  broad 
belt  of  jolty  walnut  trees,  which  formed  grateful  screens  be- 
tween us  and  the  fiery  glare  of  the  western  sky.  On  the  other 
hand,  our  view  extended  as  far  as  the  Andes,  fifty  or  sixty 
miles  off,  indistinctly  seen  through  the  waving  haze,  caused  by 
the  fierceness  of  the  sun's  rays  striking  through  the  arid  low 
grounds  ;  neither  biid  nor  beast  was  to  be  seen,  nor  the  least 
speck  of  a  cloud  in  the  sky — the  tyranny  of  tlie  .';un  was  com- 
plete. There  was  a  solemn  tranquillily  in  this,  which,  while  it 
disposed  the  mind  to  thought,  took  nothing  from  its  cheerful- 
ness. But  we  were  soon  left  to  enjoy  it  alone,  as  the  company 
dropped  off,  one  by  one.  to  take  their  siesta  ;  the  landlord  only 
remained,  but  evidently  out  of  civility  to  his  guests;  we,  there- 
fore, took  an  opportunity  of  slipping  off  to  our  rooms  also,  that 
he  might  retire." 

The  same  author  thus  describes  a  Chilean  tlnnct>:  "It  con- 
sists of  a  great  variety  of  complicated  figures,  affordinginfinite 
opportunities  for  the  display  of  grace,  and  for  showing  elegance 
of  figure  to  the  greatest  advantc»^e.  It  is  danced  to  waltz  tunes, 
played  in  rather  slow  time  ;  and,  instead  of  one  or  two  couples 
dancing  at  once,  the  whole  of  the  set,  from  end  to  end,  is  in 
motion.  No  dance  can  be  more  beautiful  to  look  at,  or  more 
be\\itching  to  be  engaged  in.  As  all  the  ladies  hav(^  more  or 
less,  a  taste  for  music,  and  can  i)Iay  on  the  piano-forte,  there 
seldom  arises,  on  such  occasions  as  this,  a  difficulty  in  finding 
a  player.  Rut  I  was  surprised,  and  somewhat  disappointed, 
to  see  a  young  lady,  one  of  the  gayest  and  best  dancers  in 
( "hile,  place  herself  at  the  instrument.  The  gentlemen  loudly 
appealed  against  this  proceeding;  but  she  maintained  her 
place  resolutely,  declaring  she  would  not  dance  a  single  step. 
I  saw  there  was  some  mystery  in  this,  and  tof>k  an  opjiortuni- 
ty  of  begging  to  know  what  {ftiild  have  induced  a  person  of  so 
much  good  sense  and  cheerfulness,  and  so  foufi  of  dancing,  to 
make  .so  very  preposterous  a  resolution.  She  laughed  on  hear- 
ing the  subject  treated  with  such  earnestness,  and  confessed 
tliat  nothing  was  farther  from  her  own  wishes  than  her  present 
forbearance,  but  that  she  was  bound  l)y  a  promise  not  to  dance 
for  a  whole  year.  I  begged  an  explanation  of  this  singular 
engagement,  when  she  told  me,  that,  during  the  recent  con- 
finement of  her  sister,  our  host's  wife,  at  a  mf)ment  when  her 
life  was  flespaired  of,  her  nintlifr  had  made  avow,  that,  if  she 
recovered,  not  one  of  the  uiunarried  girls  should  dance  for 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  187 

SANTIAGO. 

twelve  months.  Her  younger  sister,  however,  was  dancing  ; 
and  I  found  she  had  managed  to  evade  the  obligation  by  an 
ingenious  piece  of  casuistry,  arguing  that,  as  the  promise  had 
been  made  in  town,  it  could  never  be  intended  to  apply  to  the 
country.  The  good-natured  mother,  who  probably  repented 
of  her  absurd  vow,  allowed  that  a  good  case  of  conscience  had 
been  made  out;  and  the  pretty  Rosalita  danced  away  with  a 
spirit  which  was  taken  up  by  the  whole  room,  and  a  more  an- 
imated ball  was  never  seen." 

.  Santiago. — This  city  is  situated  in  an  extensive  plain,  distant 
from  Valparaiso  ninety  miles.  According  to  Mr.  Miers,  it  is 
one  of  the  finest  cities  in  South  America,  in  point  of  structure, 
convenience,  and  healthiness ;  but  not  so  with  regard  to  its 
geograpliical  situation:  it  is  certainly  inferior  to  Lima  and 
Buenos  Ayres  in  this  respect,  as  well  as  in  the  elegance  of  its 
public  and  private  buildings  ;  but  it  surpasses  them  in  cleanli- 
ness and  regularity,  and  possesses,  at  first  sight,  a  more  impo- 
sing appearance  than  it  is  found  to  deserve  on  a  closer  exam- 
ination. Like  other  Spanish  towns,  the  city  is  divided  in 
quadras  or  squares. 

This  town,  says  Capt.  Head,  is  full  of  priests — the  people 
are  consequently  indolent  and  immoral ;  and  certainly  I  never 
savv'  more  sad  examples  of  the  effects  of  bad  education,  or  a 
state  of  society  more  deplorable.  The  streets  are  crowded 
with  a  set  of  lazy,  indolent,  bloated  monks  and  priests,  with 
their  heads  shaved  in  different  ways,*  wearing  enormous  flat 
hats,  and  dressed,  some  in  white  serge  cowls  and  gowns  and 
others  in  black.  The  men  all  touch  their  hats  to  these  drones, 
who  are  also  to  be  seen  in  the  houses,  leaning  over  the  backs 
of  chairs,  and  talking  to  women  who  are  evidently  of  the  most 
abandoned  class  of  society.  The  number  of  people  of  this  de- 
scription at  Santiago  is  quite  extraordinary.  The  lower  rooms 
of  the  most  reputable  houses  are  invariably  let  to  them,  and  it 
is  really  shocking  beyond  description  to  see  them  sitting  at 
their  doors,  with  a  candle  in  the  back  part  of  the  room  burn- 
ing before  sacred  pictures  and  images. 

The  power  of  the  priests  has  diminished  very  much  since 
the  revolution.  They  are  not  respected  ;  they  have  almost  all 
families,  and  lead  most  disreputable  lives.  Still  the  hold  they 
have  upon  society  is  quite  surprising.  The  common  people 
laugh  at  their  immorality,  yet  they  go  to  them  for  images  and 

*  I  was  one  dayin  a  hair-dresser's  shop  at  Santiag^o,  when  a  priest  came  in 
to  have  his  head  shaved,  and  I  slopped  to  see  the  operation.  The  priest  was 
a  sleek  fat  man  of  about  forty,  with  a  remariiable  short  nose  and  sallow  com- 
plexion. The  man  lathered  him  with  the  greatest  respect,  and  then  shaved 
the  lower  part  of  the  head  about  an  inch  above  the  ears  all  round,  and  discov- 
ered bumps  which  a  student  of  Gall  and  Spurzheim  would  have  been  shock- 
ed at.  His  head  was  deadly  white  as  young  pork  ;  and  while  the  barber  was 
turning  the  priest's  head  in  different  directions,  I  really  thought  it  altogether 
the  most  uncivilized  operation  I  had  ever  witnessed ;  and  when  it  was  finish- 
ed, and  the  man  stood  up,  he  looked  so  very  grotesque  that  I  could  scarcely 
refrain  from  laughing. 


1S8  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 


CHILE. 


pictures,  and  they  send  their  wives  and  daughters  to  confess 
to  them.  Three  times  a  day  the  people  in  the  streets  take  off 
their  hats,  or  fall  down  on  their  knees. 

During  the  day  one  constantly  meets  a  calash  drawn  by  two 
mules,  driven  by  a  dirty  boy  in  a  poncho,  and  followed  by  a 
line  of  inliubitants  witli  their  hats  off,  each  carrying  a  lighted 
candle  in  a  lantern  ;  every  individual  in  the  street  kneels,  and 
those  who  have  windows  towards  the«treets  (who  are  gene- 
rally the  females  I  have  described)  are  obliged  to  appear  with 
a  lighted  candle.  In  the  inside  of  the  carriage  sits  a  priest 
with  liis  hands  uplifted  and  clasped.  In  this  system  of  deprav- 
ity the  great  sinner  pardons  the  little  ones.  Sins  are  put  into 
one  scale  and  money  into  the  oth<M-,  and  intent  upon  tin;  l)al- 
ance,  both  parties  foiget  the  beauty  and  simplicit}'  of  religion, 
which  they  nominally  profess. 

The  .swV.s7r/  at  Santiago  is  as  long  as  it  is  at  Mendoza.  The 
shops  are  shut  at  noon,  and  remain  closed  for  four  or  five 
hours,  din-ing  which  time  all  business  is  at  an  end. 

The  clinirtte  of  Santiago  is  similar  to  that  of  all  the  parts  of 
Chile  which  I  visited.  The  day  in  summer  is  burning  hot ; 
the  nights  delightfully  cool.  During  the  dav.  the  sun,  reflected 
from  tiie  mountains  which  surround  the  town  on  every  side, 
and  which,  of  course,  obstruct  tlie  i)reeze,  has  a  greater  heat 
than  is  natural  to  the  latitude.  At  night  the  cold  air  rolls  down 
the  snowy  sides  of  the  Andes,  and  fills  the  Chilean  valleys  with 
a  cool  atmosithere,  wliicli  is  unknown  to  the  great  plains  on 
the  other  side  of  the  Cordillera.  The  effect  of  this  stream  of 
cold  air  is  very  agreeable,  and  people,  whose  occupation 
screen  them  from  the  sun  in  the  day,  enjoy  their  evening's 
ramble;  and  as  the  sky  is  very  clear,  the  climate  of  Chile  is 
often  described  as  being  extremely  healthy.  Yet  the  least 
learned,  but  perhaps  th(>  most  satisfactory  proof  of  the  healthi- 
ness of  a  climate,  is  not  the  brightness  of  the  stars,  or  the  color 
of  the  moon,  but  the  appearance  of  mt-ii's  and  women's  faces  ; 
and  certainly  the  ])eo]i|e  of  Chile!  in  general,  and  of  Santiago 
in  particular,  have  not  a  healthy  appearance.  The  English 
there,  also,  look  very  pale  and  exhausted,  and  although  they 
keep  each  other  in  countenance,  it  appeared  to  me,  that  a 
strung  dose  of  British  wind,  with  snow  and  rain,  and  a  few  of 
what  the  Scotch  call  "sour  mornings,"  would  do  them  a  great 
deal  of  good. 

JVic  (owns  of  Chile  are  built  in  the  finest  parts  of  the  coun- 
try, but  not  always  placed  so  advantageously  as  they  might 
havebeen.  for  the  purpose  of  commerce.  The  .streets  are  about 
forty  feet  wide,  intersecting  each  other  at  right  angles,  and 
forming  so  many  stjuares.  The  houses  in  general  are  built  of 
mud  or  clay  hardened  in  the  sun,  liaving  but  one  story,  with  a 
garden  attached  to  each  of  them  ;  many,  however,  of  more  re- 
cent construction,  are  compo.scd  of  brick  or  stone,  and  fur 
nisiied  with  u])per  stories. 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  ISa 

FERTILITY. CLIMATE. — MODE    OF    TRAVELLING. 

The  inland  parts  of  Chile  are  the  most  fertile,  and  the  fortil- 
ity  increases  in  proportion  to  the  distance  from  the  sea.  The 
valleys  of  the  Andes  are  superior  to  the  middle  districts,  and 
these  to  the  maritime.  In  the  maritime  districts  the  soil  is 
brown,  inclining  to  red,  brittle  and  clayed,  and  contains  marl 
mixed  with  marine  substances.  In  the  interior  and  in  the  val- 
leys of  the  Andes,  it  is  brittle,  and  of  a  yellowish  black  color. 
It  everywhere  possesses  an  extraordinary  warmth,  and  brinf^s 
to  perfect  maturity  those  tropical  fruits  which  are  natives  only 
of  the  torrid  zone.  The  inexhaustible  sources  of  fertility  in 
this  delightful  country  renders  uniiecessary  the  use  of  artificial 
manures,  and  experience  has  t;uight  the  husbandman  of  Chile 
their  superfluity,  if  not  injury.  The  fermentation  and  putre- 
faction of  manure  is  supposed  to  engender  or  multiply  certain 
worms  destructive  to  grain  in  the  blade.  From  these  Chile  is 
entirely  exempted  ;  and  it  is  alleged  as  a  known  fact,  that  the 
lands  of  St.  Jago,  though  they  have  been  constantly  cultivated 
for  a  period  of  near  two  centuries  and  a  half,  without  receiv- 
ing any  artificial  manure,  have  suffered  no  diminution  in  their 
amazing  produce.  The  soil  of  Chile,  by  a  very  m.oderate  cal- 
Gulation,  yields,  at  an  average,  sixty-five  for  one  in  the  middle 
districts,  and  forty-five  in  the  maritime.  There  are,  indeed, 
lands  which  produce  120,  and  160  for  one,  and  according  to 
some  authors,  there  have  been  frequent  instances  of  300  fold; 
but  this  extraordinary  increase  has  not  been  confirmed  by 
later  and  more  authentic  information. 

The  climate  is  mild,  equable,  and  salubrious,  and  not  inferior 
t-o  any  in  the  new  world.  The  transition  from  heat  to  cold  is 
moderate,  and  their  extremes  equally  unknown.  The  air  is  so 
much  cooled  in  summer  by  certain  winds  from  the.Andes,  dis- 
tinct from  the  east  winds,  that  in  the  shade  no  one  is  ever  in- 
commoded with  perspiration.  In  the  interior,  where  the  heat 
is  greatest,  Reaumur's  thermometer  seldom  exceeds  45°,  and 
in  winter  it  very  rarely  sinks  below  the  freezing  point.  Chile 
enjoys  a  constant  succession  of  fine  weather  from  the  begin- 
ning of  spring  till  autumn.  The  rainy  season  commences  in 
April,  and  continues  till  the  end  of  August.  The  southern 
prpvinces  have  much  more  of  it  than  those  in  the  centre,  while 
in  the  northern  provinces  of  Coquimbo  and  Copiapo,  it  rains 
very  seldom.  In  these  provinces,  however,  and  throughout 
the  country,  the  dews  fcdl  in  such  abundance,  as  in  a  great 
measure  to  supply  the  want  of  rain.  Snow,  except  on  the  An- 
des, is  very  uncommon.  On  the  coast  it  is  entirely  unknown, 
and  though  it  sometimes  falls  in  the  middle  districts,  it  is  often 
melted  before  reaching  the  ground,  and  is  seldom  known  to  lie 
for  the  space  of  a  day.  On  the  Andes,  however,  from  April  to 
November,  it  falls  in  prodigious  quantities,  and  renders  the 
passes  for  the  greater  part  of  the  year  altogether  impracticable, 

Travelling  from  Buenos  Ayres  to  Santiago. — In  our  remarks 
upon  the  mode  of  travelling  in  Buenos  Ayres,  we  had  occasion 


190  UNIVF.RRAL  TRAVELLER. 


CHILE. 


to  allude  to  the  route  between  Buenos  Ayres  and  Santiago 
across  the  pampas  and  (ho  ureal  Cordillera.  Fnmi  Duenos 
Ayres  to  Mendoza,  or  Uspallata.  (the  latter  of  which  is  about 
20  miles  from  Mendoza,  and  is  distinij;nished  for  its  larijo  and 
rich  silver  mine.)  the  time  occupied  is  about  fourteeii  days. 
The  whole  journey  between  Buenos  Ayres  and  Santia;4o,  in- 
ciudini^  the  passai!;e  of  the  great  Cordillera,  usually  occupies 
three  weeks,  but  the  horses,  to  accomplish  the  journey  in  that 
time,  must  be  kept  upon  the  lull  gallop  in  all  cases  where  such 
sp(»ed  is  practicable.  Ca[)t.  Head  thus  describes  the  passage 
of  the  great  Cordillera  : 

As  I  was  looking  up  at  the  region  of  snow,  and  as  my  mule 
was  scrambling  along  the  steep"  side  of  the  rock,  the  capataz 
overtook  me,  and  asked  me  if  I  chose  to  come  on,  as  he  was 
going  to  look  at  the  '■  Ladera  de  las  Vaccas,"  to  see  if  it  was 
passable,  before  the  mules  came  to  it.  He  accordingly  tiotted 
on,  and  in  half  an  hour  we  arrived  at  the  spot.  It  is  the  worst 
pass  in  the  Cordillera.  The  mountain  above  appears  almost 
perpendicular,  and  in  one  continued  slope  down  to  the  rapid 
torrent,  which  is  raging  underneath.  The  surface  is  covered 
witli  loose  earth  and  stones  which  have  been  brought  down  by 
the  water.  The  path  goes  across  this  slope,  and  is  very  bad 
for  about  seventy  yards,  being  only  a  few  inches  broad  ;  but 
the  point  of  danger  is  the  spot  where  the  water  which  comes 
down  from  the  top  of  the  mountain,  either  washes  the  path 
away,  or  covers  it  over  with  loose  stones.  We  rode  over  it, 
and  it  certainly  was  very  narrow  and  bad.  In  some  jilaces, 
the  rock  almost  touches  one's  shoulder,  while  the  precipice  is 
immediately  under  the  opposite  foot,  and  high  above  the  head 
are  a  number  of  large  loose  stones,  which  a|>p(>ar  as  if  the 
slightest  touch  would  send  them  rolling  into  the  torrent  be- 
neath, which  is  foamingand  rushing  with  great  violence.  How- 
ever, the  danger  to  the  rider  is  only  imaginary,  for  the  mules 
are  .so  careful,  and  seem  so  well  aware  nf  their  situation,  that 
there  is  no  chance  of  their  making  a  false  step.  As  soon  as 
we  hrui  crossed  the  pass,  which  is  only  seventy  yards  long,  the 
capataz  told  me  that  it  was  a  wry  bad  place  for  baggage 
mules  ;  that  four  hundred  had  been  lost  there,  and  that  wc 
should  very  probably  Inse  one;  he  said,  that  he  would  get 
down  to  the  water  at  a  place  about  a  hundred  yards  oil,  and 
wait  there  with  his  lasso  to  catch  any  mule  that  might  fall  into 
the  torrent,  and  he  re(iuested  me  to  lead  on  his  mule.  How- 
ever, I  was  resolved  to  see  the  tumble,  if  there  was  to  be  one,  so 
the  capataz  took  away  my  mule  and  his  own,  and  while  I  stood 
on  a  projecting  rock  at  the  end  of  the  pass,  he  scrambled  down 
on  foot,  till  he  at  last  got  to  the  level  of  the  water. 

The  drove  of  nudes  now  came  in  sight,  one  following  an- 
other ;  a  few  were  cafrying  rio  burdens,  but  the  rest  were 
either  mounted  or  heavily  laden,  and  as  they  wound  along  the 
crooked  path,  the  difference  of  color  in  the  animals,  the  differ- 
ent colors  and  shapes  of  the  baggage  they  were  carrying,  with 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  m 

PASSAGE  OF  THE  GREAT  CORDILLERA. 


the  picturesque  dress  of  the  peons,  who  were  vociferating  the 
wild  song  by  which  they  drive  on  the  mules,  and  the  sight  of 
the  dangerous  path  they  had  to  cross,— formed  altogether  a 
very  interesting  scene. 

As  soon  as  the  leading  mule  came  to  the  commencement  of 
the  pass,  he  stopped,  evidently  unwilling  to  proceed,  and  of 
course  all  the  rest  stopped  also. 

He  was  the  finest  mule  we  had,  and  on  that  account  had 
twice  as  much  to  carry  as  any  of  tlie  others ;  his  load  had  never 
been  relieved,  and  it  consisted  of  four  jiortmanteaus,  two  of 
which  belonged  to  me,  and  which  contained  not  only  a  very 
heavy  bag  of  dollars,  but  also  papers,  which  were  of  such  con- 
sequence, that  I  could  hardly  have  continued  my  journey  with- 
out them.     The  peons  now  redoubled  their  cries,  and  leaning 
over  the  sides  of  their  mules,  and  picking  up  stones,  they  threw 
them  at  the  leading  mule,  who  now  commenced  his  journey 
over  the  path.     With  his  nose  to  the  ground,  literally  smelling 
his  way,  he  walked  gei\i\y  on,  often  changing  the  position  of 
his  feet,  if  he  found  the  ground  would  not  bear,  until  he  came 
to  the  bad  part  of  the  pass,  where  he  again  stopped,  and  I  then 
■certainly  began  to  look  with  great  anxiety  at  my  portmanteaus ; 
but  the  peons  again  threw  stones  at  him,  and  he  continued  his 
path,  and  reached  me  in  safety  ;  several  others  followed.     At 
last  a  young  mule,   carrying  a  portmanteau,  with  two  large 
sacks  of  provisions,   and  many  other  things,  in  passing  the 
bad  point,  struck  his  load  against  the  rock,  which  knocked  his 
two  hind  legs  over  the  precipice,  and  the  loose  stones  imme- 
diately began  to  roll  away  fioia  under  them  :  however,  his  fore- 
legs were  still  upoji  the  narrow  path  ;  he  had  no  room  to  put 
his  head  there,  but  he  placed  his  nose  on  the  path  on  his  left, 
and  appeared  to  hold  on  by  his  mouth :  his  perilous  fate  was 
soon  decided  by  a  loose  mule  who  came,  and  in  walking  along 
after  him,  knocked  his  comrade's  nose  off  the  path,  destroyed 
his  balance,  and  hpad  over  heels  the  poor  creature  instantly 
commenced  a  fall  which  really  was  quite  terrific.     With  all  his 
^baggage  firmly  lashed  to  him,  he  rolled  down  the  steep  slope, 
until  he  came  to  the  part  which  was  perpendicular,  and  then  he 
seemed  to  bound  off,  and  turning  round  in  the  air,  fell  into  the 
deep  torrent  on  his  back,  and  upon  his  baggage,  and  instantly 
disappeared.     I  thought  of  course  that  he  was  killed  ;  but  up 
he  rose,  looking  wild  and  scared,  and  immediately  endeavored 
to  stem  the  torrent  which  was  foaming  about  him.     It  was  a 
noble  effort ;  and  for  a  moment  he  seemed  to  succeed,  but  the 
eddy  suddenly  caught  the  great  load  which  was  upon  his  back, 
and  turned  him  completely  over;  down  went  his  head  with  all 
the  baggage,  and  he  was  carried  down  the  stream ;  all  I  saw- 
were  his  hind  quarters,  and  his  long,  thin,  wet  tail,  lashing  the 
-water.     As  suddenly,  however,  ud  his  head  came  again  ;  but 
he  was  now  weak,  and  went  down  the  stream,  turned  round  and 
round  by  the  eddy,  until  passing  the  corner  of  the  rock,  I  lost 
sight  of  him.    I  saw  however  the  peons,  with  their  lassos  in 


192  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

CHILE. 

their  hands,  run  down  the  side  of  the  torrent  for  some  littlb 
distance;  but  they  soon  stopped,  and  after  looking;; towards  the 
poor  mule  for  some  seconds,  their  earnest  attitude  «jradually 
relaxed,  and  when  they  walked  towards  me,  I  concluded  that 
all  was  over.  I  walked  up  to  the  peons,  arid  was  just  going  to 
speak  to  them.  When  I  saw  at  a  distance,  a  solitary  mule  walk- 
ing towards  us ! 

We  instantly  perceived  that  he  was  the  Pha?ton  whose  fill 
"we  had  just  witnessed;  in  a  few  moments  he  came  up  to  us 
to  join  his  comrades.  He  was  of  course  drip|)ing  wet ;  his  eye 
looked  dull,  and  his  countenance  was  dejected  :  however,  none 
of  his  bones  were  broken,  he  was  very  little  cut,  and  the  bulle- 
tin of  his  health  was  altogether  incredible. 

With  that  surprising  anxiety  which  the  mules  all  have  to 
join  the  troop,  or  rather  the  leading  mule,  which  carries  the 
bell,  he  continued  his  coiu-se,  and  actually  walked  over  the 
pass  without  compulsion,  although  certainly  with  great  caution. 

We  then  continued  our  course  for  two  hours,  until  we  came 
to  the  "'Rio  de  las  Vaccas,"  which  is  the  most  dangerous  tor- 
rent of  any  of  those  which  are  to  be  crossed.  We  got  through 
it  with  safety,  but  it  was  very  deep,  and  so  excessively  rapid, 
that  large  stones  were  rolled  down  it  with  the  force  of  the  wa- 
ter. The  mules  are  accustonied  to  these  torrents,  but  they 
aie,  notwithstanding,  much  frightened  at  them,  and  it  is  only 
long  spurs  that  can  force  them  into  them.* 

From  this  time  nothing  worthy  of  notice  occurred  to  Capt. 
Head  or  his  party.  They  at  length  reached  the  summit,  and, 
to  use  his  language,  it  was  really  a  moment  of  great  triumph 
and  satisfictioii :  hitherto  I  had  always  been  looking  upwards, 
but  now  tlie  dilHculties  were  all  overcome,  and  I  was  able  to 
look  down  upon  the  mountains.  Their  tops  were  covered  with 
snow;  and  as  tlie  eye  wandered  over  the  difiV'rent  pinnacles, 
and  up  tlie  white  trackless  ravines,  one  could  not  but  confess 
that  the  scene,  cheerless  and  inhosi)itable  as  it  was,  was  never- 
theless a  picture  both  magnificent  and  sublime. 

The  descent  of  the  Andes  on  the  Chilean  side  is  upon  the 
"whole  less  difficult  and  dangerous  than  that  on  tlie  Buenos 
Ayrean  side.  Greater  (|uantities  of  snow  are  found  on  the  for- 
mer than  on  the  latter,  and  consequently  the  path  is  often  ex- 
ceedinixly  treacherous,  and  not  MnlVcfpiently  the  snow  melting 
of  a  sudflen,  cau>es  torrents  of  water  to  pour  down  the  sides  of 
the  mountain  with  great  power,  oftentimes  terrilic  both  to  the 
nmles  and  liieir  riilers.  <'a|)tain  Head  and  his  party,  however, 
made  the  discent  without  any  serious  accident.  On  one  oc- 
casion, they  met  with  the  foUowinix  interesting  incident,  which 
he  thus  describes:  We  were  riding  close  to  a  very  high  per- 
pendicular mountain  which  was  on  our  right,  and  were  all 
lf)oking  up  it,  and  making  remarks  upon  its  singular  forma- 
tion,  when  we  heard  a  sound  like  a  sudden  explosion  of  a 

♦  Head's  Notes. 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  193 


ARAUCANIANS. 


mine,  and  a  large  piece  of  the  rock  was  instantly  seen  falling. 
The  sound  was  exactly  like  that  described,  but  I  should  think 
it  must  have  proceeded  from  the  rock  having  struck  against 
some  part  of  the  cliff;  however,  one  of  the  party  exclaimed, 
"  Oh  !  it  is  all  coming  1"  and  off  he  darted. 

The  other  and  I  stood  still,  and  we  were  much  amused 
with  the  appearance  of  the  fugitive,  who  bending  over  his 
mule,  as  if  the  mountain  had  already  been  on  his  shoulders, 
was  kicking  and  spurring  and  beating  his  mule,  and  in  this  at- 
titude actually  rode  out  of  our  sight,  without  once  turning  to 
•look  behind  him. 

When  we  came  up  to  him,  "  What !  did  you  not  see,"  ex- 
claimed he,  "  the  whole  face  of  the  mountain  moving,  and  smoke 
peeping  out  of  all  the  crevices  ?"  He  added,  he  had  heard  that 
Chile  was  full  of  volcanoes,  that  he  considered  the  whole 
mountain  was  coming  upon  him,  and  that  therefore  he  cer- 
tainly did  ride  for  his  life. 

Araucania. — This  is  the  name  of  a  great  and  independent 
nation  in  South  America,  who  inhabit  that  part  of  Chile  which 
lies  between  the  rivers  Bio-bio  and  Valdivia.  The  Araucani- 
ans  are,  in  general,  strong  and  well-proportioned,  and  have  a 
fine  commanding  appearance,  though  they  do  not  exceed  the 
ordinary  size  of  Europeans.  Their  complexion  is  of  a  reddish 
brown,  their  faces  round,  their  eyes  small  and  lively,  and  their 
nose  rather  flat,  their  mouth  handsome,  their  teeth  white,  their 
legs  m.uscular  and  well-formed,  and  their  feet  small  and  flat. 
They  have  almost  no  beard,  and  the  greatest  care  is  taken  in 
removing  every  hair  from  the  body.  The  hair  upon  the  head 
is  long,  thick,  black,  and  coarse:  and,  being  regarded  as  a 
great  ornament,  is  wound  carefully  in  tresses  round  their 
heads.  From  tl\e  strength  of  their  constitutions,  they  rarely 
begin  to  become  gray  till  UO  or  70,  and  they  are  seldom  bald 
or  \vrinkled  till  SO.  They  live  to  a  greater  age  than  the  Span- 
iards ;  and  though  many  are  to  be  found  who  are  more  than  a 
hundred  years  old,  yet  they  preserve,  unimpaired  to  the  last, 
their  sight,  teeth,  and.  memory. 

The  minds  of  this  people  are  marked  by  an  intrepidity  of 
character,  a  patijence  of  fatigue,  an  ardor  of  patriotism,  and  an 
enthusiastic  love  of  liberty,  which  they  will  surrender  only 
with  their  lives.  Jealous  of  their  honor,  polite,  hospitable,  and 
grateful,  they  are  generous  and  humane  to  their  vanquished 
enemies.  If  these  virtues  formed  the  leading  features  in  the 
Araucanian  character,  we  might  pronounce  them  to  be  the 
happiest  people  upon  earth  ;  but,  from  the  want  of  culture  and 
reflneraent,  these  qualities  are  debased  by  debauchery,  drunk- 
enness, presumption,  and  an  insolent  contempt  for  other  na- 
tions. 

The  dress  of  the  Araucanians,  which  is  made  of  wool,  con- 
sists of  a  shirt,  a  vest,  a  pair  of  short  close  breeches,  and  a 
17 


194  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

CHILE. 

cloak,  called  ponrho,  in  the  form  of  a  scapulary,  with  an  open- 
iiiir  in  tho  head,  and  of  a  sufficient  length  to  cover  the  hands 
and  the  knees.  The  color  of  the  poncho  is  greenish  blue 
among  the  lower  orders,  but  of  different  colors  among  the 
higher  classes,  and  general!}'  striped,  and  ornamented  with 
flowers  and  animals.  The  rest  of  their  clothes  is  always  green- 
ish blue,  which  is  the  color  of  the  nation.  Their  heads  are 
covered  with  a  bandage  of  embroidered  woe  which  they 
raise  a  little  as  a  mark  of  courtesy.  They  wear  round  their 
bodies  a  woollen  sash;  the  lower  chiss  go  barefooted,  but  peo- 
ple of  rank  wear  v.oolien  boots  and  leather  sandals. 

The  icnmrn^  who  are  delicately  formed,  and  frequently  hand- 
some, are  remarkable  for  the  modesty  and  simplicity  of  their 
attire.  A  tunic,  a  girdle,  and  a  short  cloak,  clasped  before 
with  a  silver  buckle,  and  always  of  a  greenish  blue  color,  are 
invariably  the  articles  of  their  dress.  The  tunic,  which  has 
no  sleeves,  descends  to  their  feet,  and  is  fastened  on  their 
shoulders  with  silver  buckles.  Their  hair  floats  in  graceful 
tresses  over  their  shoulders,  and  a  false  emerald  sparkles  in 
their  foreheads.  Their  square  ear-rings  are  of  silver,  their 
Jiecklaces  and  bracelets  are  made  ofglass,  and  a  silver  ring  is 
worn  upon  each  linger.  As  ornaments  of  this  kind  are  used 
even  by  tiie  jioorest  class,  it  is  computed  that  a  hundred  thou- 
sand marks  of  silver  are  employed  in  female  ornaments. 

The  fond  of  the  Araucanians  is  chiefly  Indian  corn  and  po- 
tatoes ;  and  when  they  do  eat  flesh,  which  is  very  seldom,  it  is 
simply  boiled  or  roasted.  Though  they  have  plenty  of  excel- 
lent iish,  they  do  not  use  it  much  as  food.  Their  sui)slitute  for 
bread  is  small  cak(>s.  i>r  roasted  potatoes  with  salt.  Their 
drinks  are  various  kinds  of  beer  and  cider,  made  from  their 
corn  and  fruits.  They  are  very  fond  of  wine,  which  they  pur- 
chase from  tlie  S|)aniards,  fliough  their  own  climate  and  soil 
is  well  adapted  lor  the  cultur«'  of  the  vine.  Their  mode  of  liv- 
ing is,  in  general,  temperate;  but,  at  the  i)ublic  entertainment.s, 
which  are  given  at  niarriages.  funerals,  and  other  events  of  im- 
portance, they  are  extremely  profuse  and  luxurious.  Three 
luindrt'd  people  somftinu's  pntake  r)f  these  feasts,  which  last 
often  for  two  or  three  days,  and  which  are  open  to  every  per- 
.son  without  invitation.  When  they  give  feasts  on  the  occasion 
of  cultivating  their  fields,  thrashing  tlwir  grain,  or  building  a 
house,  no  person  is  allowed  t«i  participate,  but  those  who  have 
labored  till  the  work  is  done.  From  their  fondness  for  fer- 
mented lirjuors,  they  consider  every  entertainment  as  wretch- 
ed, wlien  they  have  not  plenty  to  drink.  The.se  IJacchanalian 
feasts  arc  accompanied  with  music  anrl  dancing;  but  the  wo- 
men are  generally  forced  to  dance  in  separate  comjianies  from 
liic  men. 

The  Araucanian  icomen  arc  remarkable  for  their  neatness 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  195 

ARAUCANIANS. 

and  cleanliness.  Their  houses  and  courts  are  swept  several 
times  every  day  ;  and  whenever  any  utensil  is  used,  it  is 
immediately  washed  in  the  running  stream.  The  women 
comb  their  heads  twice  a  day;  and  wash  them  once  a  week 
with  soap  manufactured  from  the  bark  of  the  quillai ;  and  a 
spot  of  dirt  is  never  to  be  seen  on  their  clothes.  The  men 
perform  the  same  acts  of  cleanliness.  Their  houses  being 
placed  on  the  banks  of  rivers,  they  bathe  three  or  four  times 
a  day  in  summer,  and  always  once  in  winter ;  and  hence 
they  have  attained  a  remarkable  expertness  in  swimming  and 
diving. 

The  Araucanians  are  celebrated  for  the  number  and  in- 
genuity of  their  games.  The  game  of  chess,  which  they  call 
comican,  has  been  in  their  possession  from  time  immemo- 
rial. Their  game  of  quechu  resembles  backgammon  ;  but  in 
place  of  dice,  they  use  triangular  pieces  of  bone,  marked  with 
points,  W'hich  are  thrown  with  a  small  hoop  supported  by  two 
pegs. 

The  youths  amuse  themselves  in  wrestling,  running,  and 
playing  with  ball.  Their  chief  games,  however,  are  the  penco 
and  the  paliran,  the  first  of  which  represents  the  siege  of  a 
fort,  and  the  other  a  regular  battle.  In  the  peuco,  several  per- 
sons joining  hands,  form  a  circle  round  a  little  boy.  Their 
enemies,  who  equal  them  in  number,  attempt,  by  stratagem 
or  force,  to  take  possession  of  the  boy,  which  gives  great  ex- 
■ercise  to  the  skill  and  strength  of  both  parties.  The  palican 
is  played  with  a  wooden  ball,  called  pali,  on  a  plain,  half  a 
mile  long,  marked  out  by  branches  of  trees,  and  exactly 
similar  to  the  orpasto  of  the  Greeks,  the  caicico  of  the  Floren- 
tines, and  the  shinty  of  the  Scotch.  The  successful  players 
obtain  great  credit,  and  are  invited  to  all  the  principal  parties 
in  the  country.  Sometimes  two  provinces  challenge  each 
other,  and  crowds  of  spectators  assemble  to  witness  the  spec- 
tacle. 

As  the  use  of  money  has  not  been  introduced  into  the  king- 
dom, their  commerce  is  carried  on  by  barter,  which  is  regulated 
by  a  kind  of  conventional  tariff.  Thus  a  horse  or  bridle  is  one 
payment,  an  ox  two,  &c.  They  trade  chiefly  with  the  Span- 
iards, who  live  in  the  province  of  Maule,  on  the  frontiei's  of 
Araucania,  and  who  exchange  iron  ware,  bridle  bits,  cutlery, 
grain,  and  wine,  for  their ponchior  cloaks,  horned  cattle,  horses, 
ostrich  feathers,  curiously  wrought  baskets,  and  other  ar- 
ticles of  a  more  trifling  nature.  No  fewer  than  40,000  of  these 
ponchi  are  exported  annually  from  Araucania.  The  Spaniards, 
who  engage  in  this  trade,  apply  for  permission  to  the  heads 
of  families;  and,  after  having  received  it,  they  proceed  to  every 
house,  and  distribute  their  merchandise  to  every  person  who 
appears.  When  the  sale  is  over,  he  notifies  his  departure ;  and 
all  the  purchasers,  with  the  most  scrupulous  fidelity,  hasten  to 


196  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 


CUILE. 


deliver  to  him,  at  the  first  village  he  reaches,  the  commodities 
which  they  bartered. 

Among  the  Arnucanian  traditions,  is  that  of  a  great  deluge, 
from  which  a  few  individuals  were  preserved  by  repairing  to 
a  high  mountain,  c.illt^i  Theg-theg,  the  thundering  or  the 
sparkling,  which  had  three  points,  and  floated  upon  the  water. 
Dreading  that  after  an  earthquake,  the  sea  will  again  deluge 
the  world,  they  fly  to  mountains,  similar  to  Theg-theg  ;  and 
imagine,  that  in  consecpience  of  this  resemblance,  they  must 
have  the  jiroperty  of  moving  ujton  the  waters.  During  their 
superstitious  pilgrimages,  they  carry  with  them  a  supply  of 
provisions,  and  wooden  ])lates  to  protect  their  heads  from  the 
burning  sun,  lest  the  mountain  Theg-theg  should  be  elevated 
by  the  waters  to  the  height  of  that  luminary. 

The  only  ceremony  which  attends  their  marriasres,  is  that  of 
carrying  off  the  bride  by  c>)ien  violence.  Her  father  and  her 
intended  husband,  accompanied  with  other  friends,  conceal 
themselves  near  the  place  where  the  bride  is  to  pass.  When- 
ever she  appears,  she  is  seized,  and  put  on  horseback  behind 
the  bridegroom;  and,  notwithstanding  her  resistance  and 
counterfeited  shrieks,  she  is  conveyed  to  the  house  of  her  hus- 
band, where  her  relatives  are  assembled  to  receive  the  cus- 
tomary presents. 

The  funeral  rites  of  the  Araucanians  bear  a  strong  resem- 
blance to  those  of  the  ancients.  When  an  Araucanian  dies, 
his  body  is  laid  U|ion  the  ground,  and  his  weeping  relations- 
and  friends  sit  round  it  for  a  considerable  time.  The  body, 
decked  in  the  best  apjiarel,  which  he  woie  wlien  alive,  is 
placed  on  a  high  bier,  and  is  watclied  by  the  inoiuners  during 
the  night,  whicn  is  generally  spent  in  weeping,  or  in  fea.sting 
with  those  who  conif:  to  condole  with  them.  After  the  termi- 
nation of  Ihis  black  entertainment,  as  it  is  called,  and  an  inter- 
val of  one  or  more  days,  the  corpse  is  carried  in  procession  to 
the  family  burial-ground,  in  a  wood,  or  upon  a  hill.  The  cav- 
alcade is  preceded  by  two  young  men,  riding  at  full  speed  ;  the 
bier,  supported  by  the  relations  of  tin;  decease<l,  and  encir- 
cled by  females,  w  ho,  like  the  hired  mourners  among  the  Ro- 
mans, bewail  the  loss  which  has  been  sustained  ;  while  another 
female  follo\\s  the  jirocession,  strewing  ashes  on  the  way, 
to  prevent  the  return  of  the  s(jul  to  its  earthly  abode.  When 
the  mourners  reach  the  burying-ground,  the  corpse  is  laid 
upon  the  earth,  and  surrounded  with  his  arms,  if  a  man,  but 
if  a  woman,  with  female  implements.  A  great  quantity  of 
provisions,  and  vessels  filled  with  chica  and  with  wine,  are 
deposited  beside  the  corpse,  to  support  it  in  its  jiassage  to  the 
next  world;  and  ahorse  is  sometimes  killed  and  interred  in 
the  same  spot.  After  covering  the  body  with  earth  and 
stones,  in  a  ])yramidal  form,  and  pouring  upon  this  tumulus  a 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  197 


PATAGONIA. 


great  quantity  of  chica,  they  bid  farewell  to  the  corpse,  with 
many  tears,  wishing  it  a  prosperous  journey  to  the  world  of 
spii'its.* 


7.  PATAGONIA. 


The  extensive  rei^ion  of  Patagonia  lies  south  of  Buenos 
Ayres,  with  the  Atlantic  on  the  east,  and  the  Pacific  on 
the  west.  On  the  south,  it  is  separated  by  the  Straits  of  Ma- 
gellan, from  the  island  of  Terra  del  Fuego.  The  coast  on 
the  Pacific  extends  about  770  miles;  on  the  Atlantic  upwards 
of  1050. 

The  inhabitants  of  Patagoma  are  still  imperfectly  known, 
and  some  contrariety  is  observable  among  writers  who  have 
treated  of  them.  Respectable  authorityf  divides  them  into 
three  classes,  Cassores,  Pampas^  and  Patagons.  The  first,  a 
race  of  common  men,  who  live  on  the  Terra  del  Fuego  side, 
as  low, as  opposite  Cape  Horn,  and  who  were  .probably  driven 
'by  their  enemies  to  take  shelter  in  this  part.  Of  the  second 
class,  seen  by  Mr.  Carteret,  Captain  Wallis,  and  M.  Bougain- 
ville, &c.,  the  largest  measured  6  feet  7  inches;  while  the 
greatest  part  of  the  natives  were  only  5  feet  10  inches,  or  6 
feet.  The  third  class  consists-of  those  wiie  were  seen  by  Com- 
•fiiodore  Byron,  Mr.  Faulkner,  &c.,  and  whose  size  is  said  in 
many  instances  to  have  been  from  7  feet  8  inches  to  S  feet,  and 
some  say  9  or  10  feet.  The  common  height  was  6  feet,  which 
was  also  that  of  the  tallest  worften. 

Their  color,  as  represented  by  the  above  navigators,  is  that 
of  deep  copper;  their  hair  as  harsh  as  hog's  bristles,  tied  back 
with  cotton  thread,  and  their  hands  and  feet  small.  The  eye- 
lids ^of  the  young  women  are  .painted  black.  Many  of  the  men 
paint  their  left  eye  with  a  red  circle,  and  others  their  arms,  and 
different  parts  of  their  face.  They  are  expert  in  the  use  of  the 
«ling,  with  which  they  entangle  the  legs  of  the  ostrich  and  gua- 
naco,  so  that  the  animals  are  easily  caught.  They  are  of  an 
agreeable,  and  frequently  handsome  figure  ;  and  have  a  round 
flat  fice,  very  fiery  eyes,  with  white  and  rather  large  teeth. 
Some  of  tliem  wear  long,  but  thin  whiskers.  Their  cloak,  of 
guanacos'  or  sorillos'  skins,  is  tied  round  the  body  with  a  gir- 
dle; and  that  part  which  is  designed  to  cover  the  shoulders,  is 
suffered  to  fall  back.  The  fle.sh  of  horses,  guanacos,  and  vi- 
cunnas,  constituted  their  chief  food.  This  is  generally  boiled 
or  roasted,  but  is  sometimes  devoured  raw.  They  make  a  fer- 
menting liquor  called  chnca,  which  causes  inebriation.  Their 
tents  are  covered  with  the  hides  of  mares. 

Their  horses  are  of  a  diminutive  size,  but  nimble.  They 
use  bridles  made  of  leatlier  thongs,  with  a  bit  formed  from 

*  New  Edinburgh  Encyclopedia.  t  Ibid. 

17* 


198  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 


PATAGONIA. 


wood,  and  their  saddles  resemble  our  pads.  No  stirrups  are 
used,  and  both  sexes  ride  in  the  same  manner,  galloping  with- 
out fear  over  the  most  rugged  roads. 

They  worship  a  good  and  a  bad  principle.  The  first  is  call- 
ed Toncha,  or  chief  in  the  land  of  stronir  drink,  and  by  some, 
the  lord  of  the  dead;  tlu-y  consider  biin  the  creator  of  all 
things,  who  never  afterwards  troubles  himself  about  his  crea- 
lures.  The  evil  principles  are  termed  the  wanderers  .without, 
and  the  dwellers  in  the  air,  who  are  viewed  as  the  protectors 
of  some,  and  the  injurers  of  others.  Heaven  they  consider 
the  land  of  drunkenness,  where  they  will  lind  plenty  of  chu- 
cha,  and  enjoy  hunting  the  ostrich.  Polygamy  is  allowed. 
Widows  express  their  mourning  by  blackening  their  face* 
for  a  year  after  the  death  ol'  their  luisbiinds.  On  the  decease 
of  a  pevson,  they  n-niove  his  flesh  IVfun  thv  bones,  either  by 
burning  or  cutting,  and  tiieu  form  a  skeleton  of  them,  which 
being  decided  in  the  best  Vobes,  with  various  weapons,  is 
placed  in  a  sitting  posture  in  a  deep  square  pit  covered  with 
turf 

TVie  Pota^ronians,  accordingto  Admiral  Don  A.  I)e  Cordova, 
are  a  collection  of  wandering  savag'^s,  who  occupy  ail  that 
vast  tract  of  countrv  extending  from  tlip  Jtio  de  la  Platfi  about 
S.,  latitude  37^  to  the  Strait  of  Magellan  in  S.  latitude  52*=  20'. 
Their  most  settled  habitations  are  in  the  interior  of  the  coun- 
try' ;  but,  in  the  hunting  season,  they  approach  the  strait,  where 
navigatois  have  m«'t  with  them. 

Their  stature,  so  much  disputed,  exceeds,  in  general,  that  of 
Europeans.  Some  of  them  being  measured  accurately,  we 
found  that  the  tallest  did  not  exceed  T  feet  \\  inches,  fiursrog 
tneasnjx';  and  th;il  the  common  size  was  fifim  (U  to  7  feet.* 
But  even  this  height  is  not  so  striking  as  tiieir  coriJulence.  or 
rather  bulkincss,  some  of  them  measuring  four  feet  lour  inches 
round  the  breast;  but  tlieir  feet  and  hnndf;  are  not  in  duo  pror 
jKirtion  to  their  other  parts.  Tiny  all  give  evident  signs  of 
strength  of  body  ;  they  are  full  of  flesh,  but  cannot  properly  be 
called  fat.  The  size  ;uid  tension  of  their  muscles  evince 
strength;  and  thoir  figure,  on  the  whole,  is  not  disagreeable, 
altliouuh  the  head  is  large,  even  in  proportion  to  the  body;  the 
face  broad  and  llatlish,  the  eyes  lively,  and  the  trcih  extreme- 
ly white,  but  too  long.  Their  complexion,  like  that  of  other 
Americans,  is  rrtrino.  fpale  yellow,)  f»r  rather  vergii:g  to  a 
copper  color.     They  wear  thin  black  straight  hair,  tied  on  the 

•Therflrn.orynrddf  CurffOH,  thpftnnflnni  of  Spnin,  con tn-ns 33.06132  inrhr<>, 
or  two  feel  nini-  inclirs  niid  one  oixtcciilh,  l".iH;lifli;  ilip  nll«  si  Pal.'ig<ini:in, 
till  riforo,  did  not  cxcrnl  .lix  fo'i  nix  inrlici  nml  nviv  lliird,  I'',n(.rii}<li ;  (ind  ihoRO 
of  ihf  rommon  nize  wfi'  from  fivr>  fict  cii;vci)  iiichr.«  and  two  third.",  to  .«ix 
fpft  five  inrl'cB  nnij  one  Hi-vi'nili,  Kiigiish.  It  is,  howcvi  r,  to  l)e  reriiritilx'n'd, 
thnt  Sp(in!nr<l/>  am  not  in  ^.'riirral  tali  men,  and  ihnt  n  stmium  ip  seldom 
nmonu  ihf  tnllrst  of  iiis  countrymen  :  to  tlitm,  tlicP-furc,  the  I'atagonians 
might  apui  or  gianta. 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  199 

STATURE. — DRESS. 

top  of  the  head  with  a  piece  of  thong  or  riband,  brought  round 
their  forehead,  having  the  head  entirely  uncovered.  We  ob- 
served some  with  beards,  but  which  were  neither  thick  nor 
long. 

Their  dress  adds  much  to  the  effect  of  their  size,  being  com- 
posed of  a  kind  of  cloak  made  of  the  skins  of  llamas  or  sorillos, 
arranged  with  some  skill,  with  stripes  of  different  colors  in  the 
inside.  They  wear  it  fastened  round  the  waist,  so  that  it  covers 
them  below  the  calf  of  the  leg,  letting  tiiat  part  commonly  hang 
down  which  is  intended  for  covering  the  shoulders  ;  and  when 
the  cold,  or-other  cause,  induces  them  to  .put  it  over  them,  they 
hold  the  upper  part  of  it  witli  the  hand,  and  so  cover  them- 
selves entirely  with  thistloak. 

Some  also,  besides  this  skin  cloak  or  mantle,  wear  ponehonos, 
and  breeches  or  drawers,  of  the  same  shape  and  ^ort  with 
those  worn  by  the  Creoles  of  Chile  and  Buenos  Ayres.  The 
poncko  is  a  piece  of  strong  cloth  striped  with  various  colors, 
about  three  ya^^ds  long  and  two  broad,  having  an  opening  in 
the  middle  made  for  the  pip.-pose  of  ])assing  it  over  the  head 3 
a  piece  of  dress  extremely  proper  for  riding  on  horseback,  as 
it  covers  and  defends  the  arms,  at  the  same  time  leaving  them 
in  perfect  liberty  for  any  exertion.  Some  had  ponchos  made 
of  the  stuffs  manuFaotared  by  our  settlers  in  Buenos  Ayres. 
The  breeches,  or  drawers,  are  very  much  like  those  worn  in 
Europe  ;  but  their  boots  are  very  different,  being  formed  of  the 
skin  of  the  legs  of  the'horse,  taken  off  whole,  without  cutting 
them  open^  and  sewed  up  at  one  end. 

There  v»'ere,  however,  few  Patagonians  who  enjoyed  all 
these  conveniences.  The  far  greater  number  were  almost 
naked,  having  only  their  skin  ^loak,  will)  a  sort  of  leather 
p-arse-ha-Hging  by  a  thong  fixed  round  the  waist,  and  fastened 
between  the  legs  with  one  or  two  thongs,  to  the  former  round 
tiie  waist. 

With  a  piece  of  skin  or  leather  fastened  round  the  foot,  they 
make  a  kind  of  shoe,  and  fix  to  it  behind,  two  little  bits  of 
ti«'}ber  forming  a  sort,  of  fork,  which  serve  them  for  a  spur; 
but  they  leave  off  this  part  of  their-dress  when  they  have  no 
intention  to  go  on  horseback,  which,  however,  happens  very 
seldom. 

It  is  a  very  general  practice  among  tliem  to  paint  the  face 
with  white,  black,  and  red,  a  kind  of  ori'lmnent  contributing 
very  little  indeed  to  the  agreealileness  of  tlieir  appearance. 

Their  equipage,  or  horse  furniture,  consists  of  a  kind  of  cov- 
ering formed  of  several  skins  of  llamas,  one  cn'er  the  other, 
and  rolled  up  a  little  both  before  and  behind,  so  that  at  first 
sight  they  have  some  resemblance  to  a  saddle;  the  whole  fast- 
ened on  with  strong  leather  thongs  or  straps,  instead  of  girths. 
The  stirrup  is  formed  with  a  piece  of  wood  four  inches  long, 
supported  at  each  end  by  a  small  thong,  connected  with  an- 
other which  is  fastened  above  to  the  girth.     The  other  parts  of 


600  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 


PATAGONIA. 


their  furniture  resemble  entirely  those  used  by  the  Indians  of 
Buenos  Ayres,  with  this  difference  alone,  that  the  bit  is  made 
of  very  hard  solid  wood. 

As  the  Patauonians  have  neithrr  iron  nor  corda^^^e,  tliey  sup- 
ply their  place  with  solid  timber,  and  straps  and  thongs  of  skin 
or  leather. 

We  saw  one  amons;  them  havinpr  fi  complete  European  sad- 
dle and  hridlo,  but  could  not  learn  l)y  what  means  he  had  ac- 
quired tlieni. 

Althoagh  we  saw  these  people  in  troops  of  300  or  400  to- 
gether, yet  we  can  give  no  inforn^ation  concerning  their  wo- 
men, wlio  never  came  near  enough  to  prrmit  our  examination  ; 
only  an  officer,  who  was  on  shore  in  the  Bay  of  St.  Gre<^orio, 
assured  us  that  their  statiwe  was  somewhat  shorter  than  that 
of  the  men,  and  that  they  dilfered  very  little  from  the  men  in 
their  dress. 

The  children,  even  in  their  tender  years,  show  that  thry  are 
descended  from  parents  of  extraordinary  size;  and,  by  (he 
largeness  of  their  features,  indicate  to  what  tiiey  will  anivc, 
when  nature  shall  havi-  attained  its  full  vigor,  and  their  mem- 
bers shall  be  properl}' developed. 

As  the  Patagonians  draw  no  part  whatever  of  their  nourish- 
ment from  the  sea,  they  have  established  their  dwellings  in  the 
inteiior  of  the  country,  in  the  vall(>ys  near  some  rivulet  or  pond 
of  fresh  water,  and  in  the  neighborhood  of  some  mountain,  to 
shelter  themselves  fi'om  the  fury  of  the  winds;  so  that  we  could 
have  no  oppoitunity  of  seeing  their  maimer  of  lodging  and 
living,  having  only  now  and  tiien,  on  board  of  the  frigate,  had 
a  distant  view,  from  which  we  were  nf)t  enabled  to  remark 
many  particulars,  .\evertbeless,  since  we  know  that  they 
lead  a  wandering  lif',  like  the  Arabs,  al)andoning  the  tracts 
that  fill  spontaneously  to  fm-nish  them  witii  food,  it  is  natural 
to  suppo.se  that  their  liuts  are  constructed  without  design  or 
solidity.  As  a  proof  that  they  N-ad  an  unsettled  wanilering 
•life,  we  can  allege,  that  during  our  voyage,  vkc  nu-t  with  the 
same  tribe  establi.shetl  in  two  dillerent  j)arts  of  tlie  strait.* 

In  his  first  voyage  to  the  South  in  ]S2:i.  Captain  Morn^il  in- 
forms us  that  having  a  desire  to  ascertain  for  himself  the  trutii 
respecting  the  si.iture  of  the  Patagonians,  he  made  an  excur- 
sion into  the  country  for  that  jjurpose.  The  following  is  his 
account  of  his  adventure:  Accompanied  by  two  men  only,  I 
]iroceeded  into  the  interior  until  we  arrived  .it  a  valley  where 
we  discovered  a  band  of  above  200  n;itive  Patagonians,  all  on 
horseback,  attending  to  a  drove  of  about  ;^000  guanacos. 

Apprehensive  for  his  own  safety,  and  that  of  his  com)ianion3, 
Moricli  concealed  himself  in  .some  underbrush,  where,  without 
beini/  seen,  he  could  observe  the  mov<'ments,  and  study  the 
appearance  and  costume  of  this  singular  peojile. 

•  Voyage  to  the  Slrail  of  Magellan,  by  Admiral  Don  A.  Dc  Cordova. 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  201 

STATURE    OF    THE    INHABITANTS. 

"  Their  stature,''''  he  observes,  "  was  of  the  common  measure- 
ment, say  from  five  feet  ten  inches  to  six  feet ;  a  few  might 
have  boasted  three  or  four  more  inches,  but  their  average 
height  was  about  six  feeX.  Their  complexion  is  of  a  deep  cop- 
per-color, similar  to  the  aborigines  of  our  own  country,  with 
long,  straight,  black  hair,  which  did  not  appear  to  have  any  of 
the  properties  of '  hog's  bristles,'  as  one  navigator  has  repre- 
sented, but  soft  and  pliable.  They  were  all  well  made,  robust, 
and  athletic  ;  but  I  was  not  near  enough  to  observe  that  re- 
markable diminutiveness  of  hands  and  feet,  which  has  been 
attributed  to  the  formidable  giants  of  Patagonia. 

"  They  were  generally  clothed  in  skins  of  the  guanaco,  or 
some  other  animal,  with  the  flesh  side  out.  These  appeared  to 
be  confined  to  the  body  by  a  narrow  strip  of  the  same  material, 
but  by  what  kind  of  fastening  I  could  not  ascertain.  Some  of 
them,  however,  were  evidently  clad  in  cloth  of  some  kind  or 
other  ;  whether  of  their  own  manufacture  or  not,  it  is  difficult 
to  conjecture.  The  shape  and  fashion  of  their  cloth  garments, 
however,  must  be  peculiar  to  themselves.  From  the  opportu- 
nity 1  had  of  inspecting  them,  I  should  agree  with  the  descrip- 
tion of  Capt.  Wallace, — that  this  apparel  was  a  square  piece 
of  cloth,  made  of  the  downy  hair  of  the  guanaco,  through  which 
a  hole  was  cut  out  for  the  head,  with  side  slips  for  the  arms,  and 
the  rest  sustained  by  the  shoulders,  hung  down  in  folds  to  the 
knees,  or  was  confined  to  the  body  with  a  girdle.  Many  of 
them  had  a  kind  of  leggin  or  buskin,  made  of  skin,  extending 
from  the  top  of  the  calf'to  the  foot.  Their  horses,  which  dis- 
played a  great  deal  of  spirit,  were  not  of  the  largest  size,  but 
handsomely  formed,  and  in  excellent  condition.  The  bridles 
were  similar  to  our  halters,  made  of  a  thong  of  skin  ;  but 
whether  their  bits  and  spurs  were  of  wood,  or  of  any  other 
material,  it  was  impossible  for  me  to  determine.  Something 
like  a  saddle  formed  a  seat  for  the  rider,  who  managed  his 
animal  with  much  tact  and  dexterity,  and  rode  with  an  ease 
and  grace  not  easily  obtained  by  art. 

"  That  their  life  is  pastoral  as  well  as  predatory,  I  have  no 
doubt ;  as  the}'  are  frequently  seen  in  such  companies  as  I  have 
just  described,  watching  over  their  flocks  or  herds  of  guana- 
cos,  while  they  are  grazing,  surrounding  them  on  horseback, 
and  arresting  such  as  seemed  disposed  to  desert  the  fold. 
Those  not  actually  employed  in  this  particular  service  arc 
grazing  their  horses,  or  refreshing  themselves." 

In  a  subsequent  voyage,  Captain  Morrell  had  a  better  op- 
portunity to  judge  of  the  stature,  &c.  of  the  Patagonians.  The 
following  is  his  account  of  his  interview  with  a  party  of  these 
long  celebrated  aborigines. 

'•  Here  I  again  left  the  vessel  in  charge  of  my  first  officer, 
and  with  my  former  three  companions  made  an  excursion  into 
the  interior  of  Patagonia,  as  we  all  had  a  longing  desire  to  have 
an  interview  with  the  natives  before  we  left  the  strait,  having 


202  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 


PATAGONIA. 


read  and  heard  so  much  oftliis  gigantic  race,  as  described  by 
Magalhanes,  Byron,  and  otiiers. 

"Like  most  of  my  contemporaries,  I  have  treated  these  ac- 
counts in  a  style  of  iiifht  burlesque  or  grave  sl<epticism :  not 
that  I  ever  doubted  that  these  navigators  might  have  seen  men 
of  six  and  a  iialf,  or  even  seven  feet  in  heigiit ;  for  many  skele- 
tons of  Indians  have  been  found  in  the  Western  States  of  ^ 
North  America  of  a  still  greater  length  :  but  I  wish  to  discoun- 
tenance all  exaggerated  accounts  of  foreign  parts,  which  have 
a  tendency  to  deter  investigation  and  commercial  enterprise. 
Hawkins,  for  instance,  gravely  cautions  navigators  to  beware 
of  the  natives  on  the  coast  of  Magellan  : — They  are  cruel  and 
treacherous,  says  he,  and  of  so  lofty  a  stature  that  several 
voyagers  have  called  them  giants.  Such  gratuitous  and  un- 
necessary cautions  have  been  the  princijial  cause  that  this  in- 
teresting region  has  never  yet  been  exjjlored. 

"  From  all  1  have  seen,  heard,  and  read,  on  the  subject,  I 
have  no  doutjt  that  the  Patagonians  were  once,  (as  some  of 
them  are  now,)  the  tallest  race  of  men  in  the  world.  They 
were  seen  by  Magellan,  and  others,  a  longtime  ago,  and  there 
seems  to  be  a  natural  tendency  in  all  animated  nature  to  de- 
generate in  size.  Other  countries  have  at  a  former  jieriod 
contained  inhabitants  of  as  gigantic  a  size  as  that  imputed  to 
the  Patagonians  three  centuries  ago;  but  their  descendants 
are  now  degenerated  by  luxiuy  or  refinement,  and  intermar- 
riages with  others  of  a  small  stature.  The  Patagonians,  .«ej)a 
rated  fiom  the  rest  of  mankind,  have  not  degenerated  by  lux- 
ury or  refinement;  but  there  is  no  doubt  that  they  have  from 
oppression.  From  whatever  stock  they  may  have  descended, 
they  were  doubtless  once  existing  undiM"  more  favorable  cir- 
cumstances than  at  present.  They  have  been  driven  from  the 
southern  banks  of  the  La  Plata,  and  the  pampas  of  eternal 
verdure,  where  they  once  grazed  their  (locks  and  herds,  to  the 
extreme  southern  verg(?  of  the  continent,  where  they  preferred 
to  starve  in  freedom  and  independence,  rather  than  become 
slaves  to  their  remorseless  and  unprincipled  invaders.  They 
arc  now  but  the  scattered  fiamueiits  of  a  colossal  fabric — the 
ruins  of  a  pastoral  nation.  Tiiough  their  minds  have  scorned 
to  bend,  it  is  not  surprising  if  tlieu"  bodies  have  degenerated 
in  stature. 

"  One  thing  is  certain,  and  I  can  assert  it  from  my  own  ob- 
servation and  actual  inspection, — there  is  just  as  strong  testi- 
mony in  favor  of  a  Ibrmer  gigantic  race  in  Patagonia,  as  there 
is  in  favor  of  the  former  existence  in  our  coimtry  of  a  race/)f 
animals  now  known  by  the  appellation  of  mammoth.  We  have 
the  bones,  and  even  entire  skeletons  of  this  huge  creature  in 
ournuiseums;  and  1  have  seen  in  the  interior  of  Patagonia 
the  bones  and  entire  skeletons  of  men  who,  when  living,  must 
have  mea.sured  more  than  seven  feet  in  height.  The  tombs 
or  sepulchres  in  which  I  foimd  them  were  covered  with  large 
heaps  of  stones,  probably  to  prevent  Uiem  from  being  molest- 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 203 

STATURE  OF  THE  INHABITANTS. 

ed  by  wild  beasts.  The  position  of  these  was  uniformly  the 
same,  with  tlie  head  to  the  east;  and  I  sincerely  regret  that 
after  thus  violating  the  sanctity  of  their  final  resting-place,  I 
had  not  silenced  skepticism  by  taking  possession  of  one  of 
these  gigantic  skeletons,  and  bringing  it  to  the  United  States. 
Such  an  acquisition  to  a  museum  would  be  a  very  suitable  ac- 
companiment to  the  mammoth,  and  such  a  one  shall  be  ex- 
hibited if  I  ever  visit  Patagonia  again."* 

♦  Morrell's  Voyages  to  the  South  Seas. 


EUROPE 


1.  ENGLAND. 

Having  now  made  the  circuit  of  tho  Western  Continent,  we 
are  prepiuvd  to  turn  our  attention  towards  otiier  anil  more 
distant  lands. 

It  were  vain,  iiowever,  for  a  tourist,  like  ourselves,  to  launch 
forth  upon  such  a  travelling  ex))edition  as  we  contenii)late, 
without  company.  One  object  of  our  lahois  at  least — the  en- 
tertainment and  instruction  of  others — would,  in  such  an  event, 
be  lost.  True,  our  own  })leasure  might  be  promoted,  and  this 
to  a  selfish  spirit  would  he  a  consideration  of  value — but  wo 
have  learned  from  an  experience  of  some  yyars,  that  s(>lfish 
^ileasnre  is  not  half  so  valuable  as  tliat  which  can  be  shared 
by  others. 

Hence,  we  are  solicitous,  if  from  no  other  consideration, 
that  those  who  have  thus  far  acconi|)anied  us  should  still  be 
our  comi)anions,  and  having  seen  wliat  ix'ojile  are  at  home, 
should  become  acquainted  with  those  abniad.  The  world  is 
wide.  The  human  family  is  greatly  diversified.  Oth(>r  cha- 
racteristics belong  to  jjoitions  of  them  tlian  those  which  yet 
have  bfcii  noticed.  Lessons  of  importance  may  be  deduced 
from  v.hat  has  yet  to  be  explored. 

Will  our  travelling  companions  then  continue,  and  wander 
as  we  still  wander  ai>roa(l  ? 

Does  t!i(;  distauce  startle?  Do  tJie  dangers  of  a  rolling 
ocean  det<'r  ?  Does  imagination,  trembling  at  approaching 
tempests,  exclaim, 

"  We  perish  !  not  a  hope  is  h  ft, 
l)(,'a!li  riiii'S  on  every  l)ill(jw. 

We  are  able  to  calm  such  fears.  The  merit  attaches  to  ouj- 
mode  of  travelling,  that  we  incur  no  hazard.  No  tempests 
flrive  us.  Neither  rocks,  nor  reefs,  nor  shores,  can  wreck  us. 
Sitting  in  our  (|uiet  hal)itation,  we  may  iauncli  forth,  and  ima- 
gination will  l)ear  us  away  with  greater  speed  than  if  driven 
by  wind  or  waves.  \Ve  jieed  no  insurance — no  outfit,  but  the 
pages  which  lie  before  us,  and  on  eveiy  succeeding  evening 
t:an  lay  ourselves  down  upon  a  pillow,  where  none  molest,  or 
make  us  afraid. 

\\ith  such  inducements — even  although  wc  shall  impart  no 
higher  interest  to  our  travels  than  we  have  done,  wi-  venture 
to  invite  our  readers  on  board,  with  the  assurance  that  our 
anchor  is  weighed— our  canvass  floats  already  in  the  wind, 
and  "bidding  our  native  land  good-night,"  we  already  an- 
nounce to  our  readers  the  sight  of  land,  whence  wc  again 


■UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  205 


PERSONAL  CHARACTERISTICS  OF  THE  ENGLISH. 


';<c<^mmence  our  travels ;  and  beg  leave  to  introduce  them  to 
the  quondam  acquaintance  of  our  fathers — the  English. 

Look  abroad^  and  tell  me,  are  they  better  looking  ihayi  our- 
selves 1  A  late  writer  has  pronounced  them  "the  handsomest 
and  best  formed  people  on  the  face  of  the  earth."  On  this 
point,  we  have  no  disposition  to  contend,  conscious  to  our- 
selves that  as  a  people  we  are  quite  ■well  looking  enough  to 
foster  pride,  and  if  they  from  whom  we  sprung  think  that  we 
have  degenerated,  we  may  still  indulge  the  hope,  that  nature 
will  ultimately  restore  us  to  the  pristine  beauty  and  comeliness 
of  the  stock  whence  we  were  derived. 

The  English  are  a  well  looking  people — the  men  of  middle 
stature,  well  formed,  generally  robust,  with  regular  features, 
and  florid  complexion; — yet  the  Americans  generally  have 
one  advantage-^not  in  width,  not  having  "the  old  roast  beef" 
of  England," by  which   to   acquire   breadth — but  an  inch  in 
stature,  and  this,  perhaps,  as  our  transatlantic  neighbors  would 
say,  because  they  are  not  so  well  fed. — The  females  are  per- 
haps less  better  looking.     Their  form,  features,  and  complex- 
ion, however,  bestow  upon  them  a  degree  of  grace  and  beauty, 
which  rivals  the  most  elegant  foreigners,  while  the  peculiar 
modesty  and  meekness  which  pervade  all  their  actions  and 
habits,  confer  upon  them  charms  which  are  in  vain  sought  for 
among  the  fair  of  some  other  nations.     In  reference  to  per- 
■  sonal   appearance,   the    following  is   from   "  A   Foreigner's 
Opinion:"  "The  most  conspicuous  phenomenon  in  relation 
to  the  exterior  of  the  English,  is  their  singular  beauty,  and 
universal  symmetry  of  figure,  which  inclines  a  'Stranger  to 
suppose  that  they  constitute  one  individual  family,  assimilated 
by  the  powerful  bonds  of  consanguinity.     A^  national,  this 
excellence  is  referable,  not  so  much  to  the  happy  influence  of 
a  benign  climate,  as  to  physical  education,  and  a  simple  and 
natural  manner  of  life.     The  woliien  are  someAvhat  inferior 
to  the  men  in  beauty  and  regularity  of  shape.     Those  pretty 
diminutive  feet  are  wanting,  for  which  the  French  ladies  are 
remarkable.     The  features  of  both  sexes  are  rather  of  a  noble 
and  expressive,  than  of  a  ravishing  or  exquisite  beauty.     A 
fine  open  forehead,  eyes  which  do  not  spai-kle  with  uncom- 
mon vivacity,  but  beam  with  gentle  lustre  ;  noses  handsomely 
shaped,  and  features  happily 'meeting  and  mingling  together, 
distinguish  both.      Those  distorted  countenances,  disgusting 
faces,    and   ill-favored    features,    so    common    among    other 
■nations,  are  in  England  seldom  to  be  found.    The  complexion 
of  the  men  is  the  warm  glow  and  animated  bloom  of  health. 
The  ladies  are  very  fair;  their  skin  is  delicate,  transparent, 
and  of  a  shining  Avhtteness.     A  single  defect,  however,  often 
withholds  from  them  the  character  of  perfection;  their  mouth 
is  too  large,  and  not  well  proportioned.     Although  it  frequent- 
ly displays  a  beautiful  set  of  ivory  teeth,  when  it  is  expanded 
by  a  smile,  yet  those  bewitching  charms  are  wanting  which 
18 


206  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 


ENGLAND. 


animate  the  far  less  handsome  countenance  of  the  Parisian 
fair." 

In  the  narrow  limits  to  which  wo  must  confine  our  investi- 
gations, it  were  vain  to  attempt  a  full  analysis  of  the  national 
cfiararfn-  of  the  Kiil^^HkIi.  "We  shall  thereflire  glance  at  a  few 
of  their  more  prominent  traits,  k-aving  our  readers  to  form 
their  ultimate  estimation  of  the  character  of  this  interesting 
people,  from  the  several  topics  which  will  be  the  subject  of  re- 
in a  ik. 

And  ns  blemishes  in  a  portrait,  especially  if  they  be  consid- 
erable, are  more  apt  to  be  noticed  than  excellences,  it  will  be 
mentioned  as  a  charge  frequently,  and  we  think  justly  made 
against  the  English,  that  they  are  distinguished  for  their  na- 
iio)i(il  pride.  It  is  admissible  to  tliink  veil  of  one's  own  gov- 
ernment, laws,  religion,  institutions,  and  country;  in  other 
words,  there  is  a  patriotic  feeling,  which,  if  not  excessive,  np 
one  should  censure,  but  \\\wr\  that  feeling  leads  the  sul'ject  of 
it  to  (hcry  all  other  lands,  and  ail  other  institutions,  it  merits 
condemnation.  As  a  nation,  England  has,  indeed,  many 
things  of  which  she  may  well  boast— of  which  she  may  well 
be  jiroud,  if  pride  be  ever  just.  In  a  variety  of  particulars, 
England  holds  a  superiority  over  most  other  eouutries.  Her 
empire  is  a  great  one.  She  is  the  mistress  of  the  ocean.  In 
a  sense,  she  controls  the  commerce  of  tlie  world.  Her  wealth 
is  boundless — her  institutions  have  become  consolidated  by 
the  lapse  of  time— lier  swuy  extends  over  portions  of  the 
globe  upon  which  the  sun  never  sets.  And  then,  again,  in 
respect  to  warriors,  what  country  has  j)roduced  those  of 
greater  renown7—Or  if  naval  heroes  be  mentioned,  who  com- 
pares with  ]\'elsf)n  ?— Or  if  we  s|>ea'k  of  intellectual  great- 
ness, where  are  greater  tlian  N(n\  ton,  and  Bacon,  and  Locke? 

"VVe  have  no  controversy  with  the  English,  when  they  boast 
of  superiority ;  but  it  is  when  tin  ir  pride  grows  intdlcrant,  and 
they  pass  the  sentence  of  condenination.  and  rustamp  with 
meanness  and  insipidity  every  other  ptojjle,  all  oilier  countries, 
institutions,  customs,  and  laws.  It  is  one  thing  to  thiiik  hi;!hly 
of  our  country,  and  all  that  jiertains.to  it.  a'nd  quite  an(>ther  to 
imdcrrate  and  revile  all  otiirrs.  "In  truth."  louse  tlie  lan- 
guage of  a  recent  writer,  "it  is  the  inueasonable  national  pride 
and  vanity  of  the  English,  tiiat  make  tin  m  so  intolerant  to  a 
sjiark  of  the  same  flame  in  others:  were  they  not  more  proud, 
they  would  m^  be  moved  by  the  harmless  pride  of  others. 
This  s|)irit  is  si'ldom  allayed  in  an  Englishm;in  by  a  visit  to 
the  United  States,  or  by  a  favorable  description  of  this  Re- 
public. If  he  but  hear  a  farmer  in  New  England  express  his 
contentment  in  living  under  a  govcrrmient  of  ecjual  rights,  he 
looks  back  to  his  own  countr)',  and  because  he  was  not  op- 
pres.sed  there  by  poverty  or  the  law.s,  rellects  not  that  olheis 
were  ;  or  he  is  stung  by  the  honest  yankee's  remarks,- becau.se 
he  remembers  thai  there  arc  in  England,  taxes,  game  laws, 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  207 


ENGLISH  CHARACTER. 


and  a  code  of  two  hundred  capital  crimes.  An  Englishman 
in  our  country,  nothing  can  satisfy;  he  loses  both  his  sense  of 
justice,  and  his  desire  to  be  just ;  his  judgment  may  be  con- 
vinced, but  not  his  will.  The  more  he  is  courted,  the  more  he 
is  entreated,  the  higlier  does  the  spirit  of  rebuke  and  sarcasm 
rise  within  him.  Yet  one  of  the  most  intolerant  of  British 
travellers  has  remarked,  that  though  he  "oftentimes  provoked 
the  national  pride,  and  sometimes  sought  to  wound,  he  never 
saw  an  American  out  of  temper."  In  short,  to  use  the  words 
of  Bulwer,  "  In  his  own  mind,  the  Englishman  is  the  pivot  of 
all  things — the  centre  of  the  solar  system.  Like  Virtue  her- 
selfj  he 

'  S lands  as  ilie  sun. 
And  all  that  rolls  around  inm 
Drinks  li^lit,  and  life,  and  i^lory  from  his  aspect.'  " 

But  let  us  do  the  English  justice.  With  all  their  nitional 
prejudices — their  cold  and  reserved  manner — their  haughty 
demeanor  towards  strangers,  unless  they  be  men  of  rank,  or 
have  letters  of  introduction — they  are  nevertheless  possessed 
of  traits  which  would  do  honor  to  any  nation.  They  are 
a  brave  people,  as  all  the  world  well  knows;  and  more  than 
brave,  they  are  honorable,  honest,  and  generous.  "Honor," 
remarks  the  writer  hist  quoted — "honor  is  their  creed.  In 
our  rehitions  with  fo'eign  stales,  we  hjjve  been  rarel}''  wise, 
but  invariably  honorable  ;  and  we  have  sustained  our  national 
character  by  paying,  with  rigid  punctuality,  the  national  loss." 

The  English  are  also  an  eminently  p;enerovs  people — not 
merely  generous  in  respect  to  pecuniar}^  relief,  when  that  is 
demanded,  but  generou.s  in  all  their  sympathies  ;  they  feel  for 
the  persecuted,  and  theirdove  is  for  the  fallen. 

"But  it  is  mainly  the  people,  (properly  speaking,)  the  mass, 
the  majority,  that  generosity  characterizes;  nor  is  this  virtue 
to  be  traced  to  the  aristocratic  influences  ;  among  the  aristoc- 
racy, it  is  not  commonly  found.  As  little,  perhaps,  is  it  to  be 
traced  to  the  influences  of  trade ;  it  is  rather  connected  with 
our  hi.story  and  our  writers,  and  may  be  considered  a  rem- 
nant of  the  chivalric  spirit  M'hich  departed  from  the  nobles  ere 
it  decreased  among  the  people.  It  is  the  multitude  who  pre- 
serve longest  the  spirit  of  antiquity — the  aristocracy  preserve 
only  the  forms. 

"  Let  us  recall  for  a  moment  the  trial  of  (iueen  Caroline  ;  in 
my  own  mind,  and  in  the  minds  of  the  public,  she  was  guilty 
of  the  crime  imputed  to  her.  Be  it  so  ;  but  the  people  sympa- 
thized not  with  the  crime,  but  the  persecution.  They  saw  a 
man  pampered  in  ex'ery  species  of  indulgence,  and  repudiating 
his  wife  in  the  first  instance  without  assignable  cause  ;  ahow- 
ing  her  full  license  for  conduct  if  she  consented  to  remain 
abroad,  and  forebore  to  cross  the  line  of  his  imperial  Sybari- 
tism of  existence;  but  arming  against  her  all  the  humiliations 
and  all  the  terrors  of  law,  the  instant  she  appeared  in  England, 


208  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 


E!yCLAND. 


and  interfered  with  the  jealous  monopoly  of  roval  solemnities. 
They  saw  at  once  that  this  was  a  course  of  conduct  natural 
rather  to  a  man  of  passion  than  of  honor;  to  a  man  of  lienor, 
disgrace  to  his  name  would  have  seemed  e([n.dlv  punishable. 
wlietherpei-])ctrated  in  Italy  oi-in  En^'-Jand.  The  queen  ceased 
to  lie  the  deltMulantin  a  court  of  law^and  seemed  to  the  public 
the  victim  of  n  system  of  oppression.  The  zeal  with  which 
the  lower  orders  supported  her.  was  the  zeal  of  chivaliy ;  the 
sjiirit  which  Burke  invoked  in  vain  from  a  debased  nobility, 
leaped  at  once  into  life  among;  a  jrenerous  people.  Compare 
the  subservient  and  smothered  disgust  of  the  aristocracj'  with 
the  loud  indignation  of  the  people  ;—\vhicli  was  the  more  in- 
dicative of  the  nobler  emotions,  or  which  preserved  in  tho 
iiigher  shape  oiu"  national  characteiistic  of  generosity  7  Who 
are  they  that  feel  the  most  deeply  for  the  ncsro  slave— the 
iKNi))lc  or  the  nobles  ?  The  people.  Who  attend  the  meetings 
in  behalf  of  I'niand  ?  the  aristocracy  .' — some  two  or  three  of 
them,  indeed,  for  the  vanity  of  uttering  orations;  but  it  is  the 
peopK'  who  till  the  assemi)ly.  The  people  m.ay  be  right,  or 
rhey  may  be  wrong,  in  their  zeal  for  either  cause ;  but  it  is  at 
'least  the  zeal  of  generosity.*'* 

Another  national  characteristic  of  the  English  is  their  j?pj>j7 
cf  iiittv.Hri/.  '-This,";  says  JJulwer,  "has  been  the  saving 
principle  of  the  nation,  counterac  ting  the  errois  of  our  laws, 
and  the  imperfections  (»f  our  constitutions.  >V>  have  been  a 
great  people,  because  we  have  always  been  active,  and  a 
moral  peo]»le,  because  we  have  not  lefl  ourselves  time  to  be 
vicious.  Industry  is.  in  a  word,  t/if  distinguishing  ipiality  of 
oui-  nation,  the  pervading  genius  of  our  riclies,  our  grandeur, 
and  our  jiower.''  Another  writer,  remarkinsr  upon  the  indu.s- 
trious  habits  of  the  English,  observes  :  "  An  En^rlishman,  while 
he  eats  and  drinks  no  more  than  another  man.  labors  three 
times  as  many  hours  in  the  cfiurseof  the  ycjir.  His  life  is  three 
common  lives.  l'eo|)le  of  other  countries  have  some  leisure 
hours;  an  Englishman  none.  You  nuiy  know  him  from  all 
tlie  n-st  of  th<'  world  l)y  his  head  goinir  b'efore  his  feet.  ;md  by 
pusliing  along  as  if  lie  were  going  fi.r  a  wager.*'  The  same 
write)-  also  adds,  that  an  American  eentleman,  on  his  first 
arrival  in  London,  observed  that  "all  the  people  in  the  street 
seemed  as  if  they  were  going  on  an  errand,  and  had  l)een 
charged  to  make  haste  back."  This  incessant  propensity  to 
activity  is  not  confined  to  any  particular  class  ;  it  is  ecjually 
displayed  in  the  garden  of  the  laborer,  the  field  of  the  farmer, 
the  workshop  of  the  artisan,  the  counting-house  of  the  mer- 
c/iant,  and  the  amusements  of  the  genthmian. 

In  rr.tprct  to  a  desire  for  knovlcdfro^  a  regard  for  morality, 
relicrjon.  and  a  disposition  for  public  benevolence,  there  is 
much  to  admire  among  the  English.     The  public  benevolent 

•  England  and  the  English,  by  Bulwcr. 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  209 


BEER  DRINKING. 


institutions  of  England  are,  perhaps,  not  equalled  in  any  other 
country.  We  might  mention  their  hospitals — their  Bible  and 
Missionary  Societies,  &c.  &c.,  all  going  to  show  the  spirit  of 
humanity  and  of  religious  kindness,  which  pervade  the  English 
character.-  But  notwithstanding  the  moral  influence  which  is 
exerted,  the  religious  principle  which  prevails,  the  restraints 
which  from  a  tliousand  sources  are  imposed  upon  the  lower 
orders,  there  is  a  very  large  class  of  the  population  of  England 
who  are  as  low  and  degraded  as  is  to  be  found  in  any  country 
on  the  globe. 

In  respect  to  the  vice  oflipplmsc,  a  late  writer  thinks  it  more 
generallv  prevalent  than  iu  the  United  States.  He  observes  : 
"  From  the  peculiar  compounds  of  tlie  beer,  of  which  a  great 
quantity  must  be  swallowed  to  produce  inebriating  effects,  the 
habi^'f  frequenting  ale-houses,  is  attended  with  pernicious 
effecre  upon  health  and  morals.  During  the  time  spent  in  mid- 
night revels  with  dissolute  companions  at  the  pot-house,  the 
sleeping  wife  and  helpless  children  are  left  neglected.  In  the 
United  States,  a  man  is  considered  aslost'to  all  sense  of  shame, 
and  his  society  is  abandoned  by  all  his  considerate  acquaint- 
ance, whenever  he  continues  to  resort  openly  to  the  tavern, 
and  to  pass  his  time  there  in  drinking  to  excess.  Although 
the  American  toper  may  drink  an  equal  quantity  of  intoxica- 
ting alcohol  with  the  professed  beer  drinker  of  an  English  ale- 
house, yet  taking  it  as  he  does  in  the  state  of  distilled  spirits, 
he  swallows  a  hasty  drauglit.  He  commonly  slinks  into  some 
dram  shop  where,  behind  a  screen,  or  in  an  obscure  corner, 
usually  prepared  for  secrecy  and  expedition,  he  takes  his  glass 
as  privately  as  possible.  This  done,  he  carefully  wipes  his 
mouth,  perhaps  with  his  sleeve,  and  sallies  forth,  imboldened 
to  court  obseivation  in  the  broad  daylight.  The  beer  drink- 
er, on  the  contrary,  usually  requires  half  a  day  to  get  drunk 
upon  his  more  diluted  potation,  and  then  his  shameless  condi- 
tion is  veiled  by  the  approaching  darkness.  In  some  manu- 
facturing districts,  the  laborer  actually  leaves  the  workshop  to 
go  to  the  ale-house  at  4  o'clock  "  for  drink,"  as  it  is  termed,  and 
the  women  get  tea.  or  rather  drink,  at  the  same  time. 

"  Althou£rh  beer  drinking  is  so  generally  prevalent  through- 
out England,  that  130,000  persons^  as  is  stated,  are  engaged  in 
the  manufacture  and  vending  of  it,  yet  the  vice  of  gin  drinking 
has  also  become  common.  The  following  account,  extracted 
from  the  Manchester  Guardian,  will  enable  the  reader  to  form 
f.n  imperfect  estimate  of  the  prevalence  of  this  vice  also. 

"  At  a  public  meeting  holden  in  Manchester,  an  individual 
stated  that  on  eight  successive  Saturday  evenings,  he  had 
counted  the  number  of  persons  who  entered  one  dram  shop 
between  the  hours  of  7  and  10  o'clock,  and  made  the  average 
412  per  hour.  He  estimated  that  the  total  number  of  persons 
who  entered  that  one  dram  shop  every  Saturday  afternoon  and 
evening  to  exceed  2500  !"* 

*  Practical  Tourist,  by  Z.  Allen. 
18* 


210  UMVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

ENGLAND. 

The  liii^hrr  cla.tsc.'<  af  the  Kii>jlisli  (ihsirre,  it  is  said,  more 
simplicilij  of  dress,  except  on  public  occasions,  than  the  trades- 
men, the  linen  drapers,  mercers,  &c.  The  latter  are  the  finest 
dressed  people  in  and  abont  London.  The  fashion  of  the  court 
dress  has  experienced  no  change  H»r  seventy  years.  Tiie  coats 
are  without  collars,  and  have  wide  sleeves  and  broad  skirts. 
The  ladies  have  hooped  skirts  and  liitrli  head-dresses.  Young 
people  in  the  metropolis  and  large  towns  are  fond  of  showy  ap- 
parel, which  the  inijiroveil  state  of  the  manufactures  enables 
them  to  indulge  in  at  an  easy  rate  ;  hence,  on  Sundays  and 
holydays,  there  is  among  apprentices  and  servants  a  show  of 
fashion  and  finery.  The  better  sort  of  people  are  distinguish- 
ed, however,  for  dressing  with  a  view  to  comfort  and  neat- 
ness. Their  garments  generally,  are  by  no  means  so  scanty 
nor  so  mean  and  strangely  absurd  as  are  to  be  met  with  on  the 
continent;  still  less,  as  the  Due  de  Levis  remarks,  afe  the 
worn  out  clothes,  which,  preserving  the  traces  of  a  luxury  un- 
suitable to  the  conditittn  of  those  wlio  wear  Ihem,  appear  to  be 
the  livery  of  wretchedness ;  on  the  contrary,  all  the  apparel 
here  seems,  at  first  sight,  fresh  from  the  manufactory,  and  the 
same  tailor  appears  to  have  cut  out  tiie  coats  of  the  whc^le  na- 
tion; and  we  are  t'^mpted  to  ask  if  the  English  do  not  export 
their  old  clothes  ?  The  truth  is,  tliey  wear  them  as  long  as  we 
do,  but  jireserve  them  better.  The  dress  of  the  women  is,  like 
that  of  the  men,  almost  uniform;  although  fashions  change 
in  England  ofleni-i'  than  in  any  other  countiy.  Cotton  and 
woollen  stuffs,  of  which  the  texture,  finenes.s,  and  patterns,  are 
almost  infinitely  varied,  constitute  tlie  basis  of  it.  This  ad- 
vantageous practice,  among  a  commercial  people,  who  pos- 
sess rich  colonies,  maintains  a  nnillitude  of  manufacturers, 
whose  useful  and  charming  productions  are  sought  after  and 
imitated  throughout  Europe.  Large  scarlet  cloaks,  with  bon- 
nets of  straw  or  black  silk,  which  preserve  and  heighten  the 
fairness  of  their  complexion,  distmguish  the  country  women 
which  comt;  to  market.  And  the  workinir  farmer  preserves 
his  clothes  by  a  covering  in  the  shape  of  a  shirt,  of  white,  brown, 
or  blue  dowlass.  When  a  class, .so^infeiior,  is  so  well  dressed, 
we  cannot  doubt  of  the  prosperity  and  comfoit  of  the  nation 
to  which  it  belong.s. 

7'//^  Kriirlish  pride  tlninsi  Ivrs  vmrli  iij,iiii  Iheir  roiisl  heej]  and 
in  comi)arison  with  that  which  is  found  on  the  continent  it  is 
decidedly  superi<jr,  but  not  supeiior  to  the  best  beef  in  the 
United  States.  In  general,  the  people  of  England  live  far  less 
luxuriously  than  the  jx'opleofthe  United  States.  The  Amer- 
ican laborer  often  consumi-s  in  a  single  day  as  much  animal 
food  as  the  same  description  of  persons  in  England  does  in  a 
week.  In  the  latter  country,  however,  more  animal  food  is 
used  than  in  France.  According  to  a  late  French  writer,  who 
may  be  supposed,  however,  to  speak  somewhat  in  favor  of  his 
own  country,  "  It  is  a  French  axiom  of  good  sense  and  good 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  211 

AN  ENGLISH    DINNER. 


company  to  enjoy  one's  self  at  table.  In  England,  on  the  con- 
trary, to  eat  to  live,  seems  to  be  the  sole  object;  here  the  re- 
finements of  cookery  are  unknown.  It  is  not,  in  a  word,  a 
science  ;  neither  does  the  succession  in  which  dishes  should  be 
served  up  appear  to  be  studied.  To  cover  a  table  with  im- 
mense pieces,  boiled  or  roasted,  and  to  demolish  them,  in  the 
confusion  in  which  chance  has  placed  them,  appears  to  be  the 
whole  gastronomic  science  of  the  country." 

The  meat  is  either  boiled  or  roasted.  Fish  is  always  boiled, 
and  served  invariably-^vith  melted  butter.  Eggs  are  excluded 
from  English  dinner-tables,  and  when  produced  at  other  meals 
are  served  in  the  shell.  English  fowls  are  of  an  indifferent 
quality,  and  ^ame  is  subjected  to  a  process  of  roasting,  which 
deprives  it  of  much  of  its  flavor.  The  confectionary  is  badly 
made,  and  without  much  variety. 

The  following,  according  to  the  Baron  D'Haussez,  is  the  or- 
der in  which  an  English  dinner  is  served.  "The  first  course 
comprises  two  soups  of  different  kinds  ;  one  highly  peppered, 
in  which  float  morsels  of  meat ;  the  other  a  soup  a  la  Francaise. 
They  are  placed  at  either  extremity  of  the  table,  and  helped 
by  the  master  and  mistress  of  the  house.  They  are  succeeded 
by  a  dish  offish,  and  by  roast  beef,  of  which  the  toughest  part 
is  served  round.  Where  there  is  no  plalau,  a  salad  occupies 
the  middle  of  the  table.  This  course  being  removed,  regular 
entrees  are  brought  in,  and  the  servants  hand  round  dishes 
with  divisions,  containing  vegetables.  The  course  which  fol- 
lows is  equivalent  to  the  second  course  in  France ;  but,  pre- 
pared without  taste,  it  is  served  confusedly.  Each  guest  at- 
tacks (without  offering  to  his  neighbor)  the  dish  before  him._ 

"  The  creams  have  often  disappeared  before  the  roast  is 
thought  of;  which,  ill-carved,  always  comes  cold  to  him  who 
is  to  partake  of  it.  The  English  carve  on  the  dinner-table, 
and  as  before  proceeding  to  this  operation,  each  person  is  asked 
whether  he  wishes  to  taste  of  the  dish  or  not,  a  considerable 
time  is  lost  in  fetching  the  plate  of  the  person  who  accepts.  A 
dinner  never  lasts  less  than  two  hours  and  a  half  or  three 
hours,  without  including  the  time  the  gentlemen  sit  at  table  after 
the  departure  of  the  ladies.  The  salad  appears  again  before 
the  dessert,  flanked  by  some  plates  of  cheese.  After  the  cloth 
is  removed,  dried  and  green  fruit  with  biscuit  are  placed  on  the 
table.  These  compose  the  not  very  brilliant  dessert.  The 
serving  up  of  the  dinner,  however,  is  the  part  about  which  the 
English  give  themselves  the  least  trouble.  Their  table  only 
presents  an  agreeable  ■  coup  d^oeiP  before  dinner.  It  is  then 
covered  with  the  whitest  linen,  and  a  service  of  plate  of  greater 
variety,  richer,  and  more  resplendent  than  is  to  be  seen  in  any 
other  country. 

"The  dessert  served,  conversation  commences.  The  gen- 
tlemen lean  their  elbows  on  the  table  to  converse  more  famil- 
iarly with  their  neighbors.    The  ladies  draw  on  their  gloves, 


212  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 


EN(il.ANI). 


and  in  order  not  to  soil  them,  eat  their  dessert  with  their  forks. 
No\vdrinkin;:;conimences  to  some  purpose.  Up  to  this  period, 
the  guests  liavc  only,  as  it  were,  slaked  their  thirst  with  a  few 
glasses  of  wine  taken  with  each  other.  It  is  a  civility  in  Eng- 
land for  one  to  take  a  glass  of  wine  with  yon.  On  tliis  occa- 
sion you  are  l)eirged  to  name  what  wine  you  choose.  This 
proposition,  which  is  not  to  be  declined,  imposes  on  you  the 
necessity  of  drinking  when  others  are  thirsty.  It  is  often  re- 
newed, witiiout  much  real  inconvenience,  however,  for  those 
who  do  not  wish  to  drink  ;  for  custonT  allows  you  merely  to 
sip  a  little  from  the  glass,  which  you  seem  to  fill  on  each  fresh 
challenge.  Sometimes,  between  these  frequent  libations,  but 
not  commonly,  a  glass  of  beer  is  swallowed.  This  is  not  won- 
derful, for  the  strength  of  the  Englisli  wines  is  more  calculated 
to  excite  than  allay'thirst.  The  same  want  of  regularity  and 
system  which  is  observable  in  the  service  of  the  dinner,  exists 
in  the  distribution  of  the  wine.  The  different  species  of  wine 
succeed  e:ich  other  without  regard  to  their  respective  qualities. 
To  empty  bottles,  and  winc-saaaon  (aciiier)  the  conversation, 
appears  to  be  the  only  object  of  the  guests. 

"At  a  signal  given  by  the  host,  the  company  rises,  but  only 
the  ladies  retire.'  The  master  of  the  house  takes  his  i^late  and 
his  glass,  and  places  himself  near  the  person  he  wishes  to  honor. 
The  other  guests  draw  near  each  other,  and  then  commences 
without  interruption  the  circulation  of  four  glass  decanters, 
which  each  man,  after  hcl|iing  himself,  passes  to  his  neighbor. 
Sometimes  idle  conversation  spiings  up  on  this  occasion ;  some- 
times interesting  i)olitical  discussions,  which  from  the  warmth 
of  manner  and  the  force  of  argument  exhibited,  are  not  unlike 
those  parliamentary  discussions,  of  which  they  may  be  often 
considered  as  the  rehearsals.  Local  inteiests  are  sometimes 
talked  of,  and  above  all  hunting  and  coursing,  which  are  in 
England  im|)ortant  aff.iirs.  Presently  the  conversation  be- 
comes more  animated,  is  carried  on  across  tlie  table,  and 
grows  confur^ed  ami  noisy.  After  three  quarters  of  an  hour 
or  an  hour,  they  are  interrupted  by  the  announcement  of  cof- 
fee;  but  instantly  after  this  announcement,  the  conversation 
is  resumed  ;  nor  does  it  cease  till  idl  the  subjects  under  dis- 
cussion are  exhausted.  At  leuL-'th  the  gentlemen  cjuit  the  din- 
ner-table and  go  to  join  the  ladies,  who  are  found  roiuid  the 
tea-table,  or  occupied  in  turnincr  over  a  collection  of  carica- 
tures. Coffee,  which  has  becm  |)oure<l  out  since  the  moment 
of  its  announcement,  and  conseciuently  cold,  awaits  th(>  guests, 
who  in  general  take  but  a  little,  preferring  two  or  three  cups 
of  very  strong  tea.  The  party  is  prolonged  till  twelve  or  one 
o'clock. 

"There  are  many  exceptions  to  the  state  of  things  I  have 
described.  In  many  houses  there  are  French  cooks;  but 
the  dinners  which  they  send  up  arc  neither  appreciated  nor 
remarkecl.  In  order  tli;it  the  arts  may  spring  up  in  a  country, 
something  more  than  artists  is  Jiecessary  :  it  is  essential  also 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  213 

PUBLIC  BUILDINGS. 

to  havo  connoisseurs;  and  if  Enjrland,  in  cookery,  as  in  music, 
borrows  her  professors  from  forciirn  lands,  slie  will  never  ob- 
tain either  a  national  cuisine  or  a  national  music. 

"In  respect  to  drink,  the  great  national  beverage  is  beer  or 
porter.  The  consumption  of-this  is  enormous.  A  q-ood  deal  of 
perry  is  consume!,  and  in  many  places  cider  forms  the  com- 
mon drink.  Wines  are  expensive.  Those  of  Portugal  are  in 
greatest  request.  Mixtures  in  imitation  of  wine  are  sold  ia 
vast  quantities.  Ardent  spirits  are  not  as  much  used  as  in  the 
United  States,  owing  chiefly  to  tlie  high  duty  imposed  on  them. 
But  drunkenness  is  produced  from  a  poisonous  compound 
called  gin,  and  from  beer,  which  has  threatened  to  break  down 
the  pillars  of  society,  and  destroy  morality  and  order  in  all  the 
land.  Temperance  societies  are  however  at  woi-k  in  England, 
and  are  putting  in  check  an  evil  which  for  a  time  bid  fair  to 
ruin  the  nation."* 

The  hiiihUncr!^  in  England,  especially  those  which  are  de- 
signed for  public  purposes,  and  those  which  belong  to  the  no- 
bility and  men  of  wealth,  are  often  costly  and  magnificent. 
Seldom  does  a  traveller  visit  England,  and  not  see  St.  Paul's 
Cathedral.  Westminster  Abbey,  York  Minster,  or  the  Castles 
of  Windsor,  Warwick,  Kennilworth,  and  other  splendid 
monuments  of  British  wealth.  It  is  not  our  intention  to  go 
into  a  particular  description  of  these  magnificent  edifices,  as  a 
fiill  account  of  a  single  one  would  detain  us  a  longer  time  than 
we  can  devote  to  the  subject  of  buildings.  We  have  no  such 
structures  in  the  United  States  ;  take,  for  example,  York  Min- 
ster. This  cathedral  is  524  feet  long  and  222  feet  wide.  This 
building  would  enclose  within  its  walls  30  churches  70  ket 
long,  and  55  feet  wide. 

"Warwick  Cast-!©,"  a  brief  account  of  which  we  give  as  a 
specimen  of  what  castles  are  in  England,  using  the  language 
of  a  late  traveller,  (Dr.  Humphrey,)  "is  kept  inline  repair, 
stands  on  the  north  bank  of  the  Avon,  eight  miles  above  Strat- 
ford, the  birthplace  of  Shakspeare.  You  ring  a  small  bell  at 
the  outer  gate,  and  an  aged  porter  opens  the  wicket,  ready  to 
receive  your  shilling,  or  reluctantly  to  take  your  sixpence,  and 
show  you  in  one  corner  of  his  lodge,  a  prodigious  suit  of  armor, 
which  he  tells  you  was  worn  by  Guy,  Earl  of  Warwick,  who, 
we  know,  was  one  of  the  most  powerful  chieftains  and  terrible 
warriors  of  the  times  in  which  he  lived.  A  giant,  indeed,  he 
must  have  been,  if  he  could  wield  that  sword,  and  bear  that 
ponderous  helmet,  and  fill  that  enormous  breastplate.  From 
the  outer  gateway,  you  wind  round  three  or  four  hundred 
feet,  in  a  wild  and  beautiful  carriage  road,  which  is  cut  through 
the  solid  rock,  to  the  depth  often  or  fifteen  feet.  The  moment 
you  emerge  from  this  defile,  Guy's  Tower  bursts  upon  your 
view,  on  the  right,  rising  a  hundred  and  twenty-eight  feet  from 

♦  Baron  D'Haussez. 


214  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

ENGLAND. 

the  cliff  on  which  it  has  stood  ever  since  the  days  of  Edward 
Srcoixf.  and  yet  it  bears  no  marks  of  di^cay.  On  the  left,  is 
C(i-.fnr''S  Tower,  wiiich  is  al)ont  seven  Iiundied  years  old,  one 
hundred  and  forty-seven  feet  hi^h,  and  in  nearly  as  good  a 
state  of  preservation  as  the  other.  After  looking  at  these  for 
a  moment,  you  ]iass  over  the  drawbridi^i^,  and  throntjh  an 
immense,  deep,  arched  "gateway,  where  you  lind  yourself  en- 
tering; the  great  qiiadranGjie  of  tlie  castle.  On  your  left,  rises 
a  noble  Grothic  pile,  three  hundred  feet  in  lenf^th,  the  princely 
abode  of  the  hereditary  possessor  and  his  family.  When  they 
are  there,  you  cannot  Ljain  admittance  to  the  interior.  At  the 
time  I  visited  it,  they  hajipened  to  be  absent,  and  I  was  per- 
mitted, for  a  moderate  fee,  to  gratify  my  curiosity  so  far  as  I 
wished.  Standing;  near  the  great  eastern  ^Niteway  when  you 
enter  the  quadrangle,  on  the  right  you  see  two  unfinished  tow- 
ers, and  in  front,  considerably  beyond  the  opposite  side  of  the 
square,  is  a  very  steep  eminence,  on  which  the  krrp,  a  kind  of 
fort,  is  situated,  and  which,  seen  through  the  thick  f  )liage  of 
trees  and  iv}',  has  a  very  romantic  appearance.  In  going 
through  what  may  be  called  the  more  ))ii!)lic  a[>artments  of 
the  family  mansion,  you  first  enter  the  great  hall,  G2  feet  long, 
3G  wide,  and  3:2  high,  and  a  most  superb  hall  it  is.  Next  comes 
the  great  dining-room — then  the  ante-room — then  the  cedar 
drawing-room — next  the  slate  bed-room — and  after  that,  the 
state  dressing-room.  Besides  these,  they  show  you  the  British 
armory,  the  chapel,  and  some  other  less  interesting  apart- 
ments. A  great  many  i)aintings  arrest  your  attention  as  you 
pass  along,  and  not  a  few  of  ttiem  are  l)y  distinguished  mas- 
ters. There,  in  a  very  conspicuous  station,  is  Charles  First, 
and  in  a  dark  passage,  almost  behind' the  door,  is  Olicer 
Croniu-fll.  Time  was,  when  a  single  gun,  pointed  at  there- 
publican  army,  from  the  battlcnuMils  of  this  castle,  would  have 
brought  light  enough  into  this  and  every  dark  corner,  along 
with  the  cannon  balis  with  which  Cromwell  would  have  visited  it. 

"  Tiie  pleasm-e  gromids  and  jiark,  consisting  of  about  800 
acres,  an*  most  tast<'fuliy  laid  out,  amid  shrubbery,  arul  flow- 
ers, and  l(»l\y  trees;  as  you  traverse  the  gravelled  avemies 
and  serpentine  walks,  ever  and  anon  you  catch  some  enchant- 
ing glimpses  of  lawns  and  summer  hou.ses,  and  of  the  quiet 
Avon  winding  its  way  through  this  terrestrial  paradise,  and 
lingeringas  if  to  admire  tlie  nuijestic  shadows,  which  fall  upon 
its  surface."* 

The  same  writer  remarks  respecting  the  lanrrr  tnicns,  as 
follows:  "  You  look  in  vain  in  Liverpool,  or  I'liruiingham,  or 
London,  for  those  clean,  airy,  and  i>ainted  dwellings,  and 
shops,  and  warehouses,  which  you  have  been  accustomed  to 
see  and  admire  in  Baltinuire,  Phiiadelphia,  New  York,  or 
Boston.  Except  in  the  outskirts  of  foreign  cities,  everything 
bears  the  marks  of  age,  an<l  in  some  of  them,  as  Chester,  for 

♦  Dr.  Humphrey. 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  215 

FARM  HOUSES — COTTAGES. 

example,  of  deep  decay,  under  the  wasting  hand  of  time.  The 
style  of  building  is  rather  heavy,  solid,  and  enduring,  than 
showy.  The  private  dwellings,  warehouses,  and  factories, 
are  higher  and  more  uniform  than  with  us.  The  materials 
are  stone  and  brick.  Three  or  four  centuries  ago,  the  former 
greatly  predominated ;  but  now  bricks  are  chiefly  used ;  and 
so  much  care  is  taken  to  guard  against  the  communication 
and  spread  of  fire,  that  a  single  block  is  rarely  burnt ;  and 
you  almost  never  hear  of  any  thing  like  those  wide-spreading 
conflagrations  which  so  often  ravage  our  cities. 

"In  point  of  neatness^  beavty,  and  life.,''''  the  villages  of  Eng- 
land are  said  to  be  altogether  inferior  to  ours.  "Instead  of 
having  sprung  up  in  a  night,  they  are,  for  the  most  part,  the 
growth  of  other  centuries.  They  are  built  of  heavy  stone, 
with  small  windows,  and  steep,  thatched,  or  tiled  roofs ;  the 
eaves  and  gable  ends  projecting  a  good  deal  over  the  walls. 
Some  of  tiiem  have  a  very  antique  appearance,  which  arrests 
the  attention  of  a  traveller,  who,  like  myself,  had  never  seen 
any  thing  of  the  kind  before.  The  thatch  is  wheat  straw,  laid 
on  eight  or  ten  inches  thick,  and  quite  as  impervious  to  rain, 
I  believe,  as  any  other  roof  It  is  said  to  last,  when  well  put 
on,  fifteen  or  twenty  years.  Even  the  blacksmith's  shops  are 
thatched,  and  why  they  do  not  oftener  take  fire,  seems  strange 
to  one  who  has  been  accustomed  to  the  use  of  wood  and  char- 
coal." 

"  The  scattered  form  houses  are  substantial,  and,  for  the 
most  part,  respectable  looking  dwellings ;  built  not  for  forty 
or  fifty  years,  then  to  be  replaced  by  others,  equally  transito- 
ry; but  to  last  for  ages.  Ever3*'  thing  within,  as  well  as  the 
outer  walls,  is  solid  and  enduring.  The  floors,  the,  partitions, 
the  heavy  oak  doors  and  ceilings,  the  furniture,  all  promise  to 
go  down  several  generations.  The  barns  are  small,  compared 
with  the  quantities  of  hay  and  grain  which  a  New  England  or 
Pennsylvania  farmer  would  think  must  be  put  under  cover. 
IMost  of  the  hay  is  put  up  in  large  stacks,  near  the  barn,  and 
tlie  same  is  the  case,  more  or  less  extensively,  with  the  wheat, 
bai'ley,  oats,  beans,  &c. 

"The  English  cottages  of  the  better  sort  are  exceedingly 
neat  and  attractive.  Every  thing  around  them,  observes  Mr, 
Stewart,  in  his  Sketches,  as  well  as  the  whitewashed  walls, 
looks  cleanly  and  carefully  kept;  while  honeysuckles  and 
jessamines,  clustering  roses  and  graceful  laburnums,  v/ith 
their  thickly  pendent  blossoms  of  bright  yellow,  overhanging 
and  festooning  the  doors  and  windows  with  sweet  drapery, 
add  a  charm  seldoiir  seen  in  the  abodes  of  the  poor  in  our 
own  country,  and,  to  my  mind,  give  assurance  of  something 
beyond  mere  animal  existence  v/ithin.  However  rude  and 
uncultivated  the  mind,  1  would  trust  much  to  the  hearts  of 
those  whose  dwellings  are  marked  with  such  evidences  of 
taste  and  purity."* 

*  Stewart's  Sketches. 


21G  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

ENGLAND. 

The  favorite  diversions  of  the  Eng^lish,  consist  of  hunting, 
coursincr,  and  horse-racing;  rowinir  and  sailinjr  are  amuse- 
ments peculiar  to  tiiem,  and  in  jwrfect  unison  with  thfir  insu- 
lar situation  and  maritime  character.  The  rinyinjjf  of  bells  is 
also  much  jiractised,  and  has  been  l)rou,t:ht  to  great  perfection 
in  tliis  country.  A  more  refined  and  intellectual  entertain- 
ment is  sought  in  the  charms  of  music,  whicji  is  cultivated 
with  great  success ;  and  many  of  tiie  large  towns,  as  well  as 
the  metropolis,  have  their  music  meetings  and  oratorios,  to- 
.pether  with  assemblies  and  theatrical  entertainments.  The 
athletic  diversion  of  cricket  is  still  kept  up  in  the  southern  and 
western  counties;  and  is  sometimes  j)ractised  by  jiersons  of 
the  highest  rank.  Cock-fighting,  to  the  disgrace  of  the  nation, 
is  a  favorite  pastime  among  the  great,  as  well  as  the  vulgar; 
and  i)ugilistic  contests,  though  sometimes  fatal  to  one  of  the 
-combatant.-i,  are  patronised  by  what  is  termed  "the  sjiorting 
Avorld,"  for  the  sake  of  betting  upon  the  dext(Mity  and  strength 
of  the  brutal  competitors.  liull,  bear,  and  badger  baiting,  are 
chiefly  confined  to  the  lower  orders ;  as  arc  also  cudgelling 
and  wrestling.  Many  other  diversions  are  common  in  Eng- 
land, as  trajvball,  tennis,  fives,  bowls,  skittles,  nine-j)ins, 
quoits,  ))rison-base,  billiards,  cards,  swimming,  angling,  &c.; 
to  which  may  be  added,  foot  and  donkey  racing,  dancing, 
jiupjiet-shows,  and  May-games.  The  English  are  fond  of 
skating,  but  not  very  e.Kpert  at  it,  on  account  of  the  short  jie- 
riods  of  frost  in  their  climate;  yet  are  they  adventurous  in  it, 
frequently  to  the  lo.ss  of  their  lives. 

Of  all  the  amu.seiuents  to  which  the  English  are  addicted, 
hnrnp-rucins^  luis.  perhaps,  the  |)refercnce.  To  the  indiilgiMice 
of  this  sport  the  richest  classes  devote  the  superlluity  of  their 
wealth.  An  enormous  expenditure  is  apparently  made  for 
the  ]ileasure  f»f  seeing  horses  run.  which  are  unfit  for  any 
otluM"  kind  of  labor.  An  improvenn>nt  of  the  briM'd  of  horses 
may  be  the  result  of  these  sjiorts  of  the  turf;  but  the  benefit 
which  gi-ows  out  of  the  practice,  by  no  means  comjiensates 
■for  the  destruction  which  it  causes  to  good  order  and  good 
nu)rals. 

Nnr  Markit  is  one  of  the  most  renowned  race-courses  in 
England.  There  are  observed  three  racing  seasons,  or  pe- 
riods, in  every  yi-ar.  each  containing  six  weeks,  with  an  inter- 
n)ission  of  eveVy  otlxM-  week.  At  such  seasons,  an  inuiirnse 
multitude,  frf)!!!  tli^  humblest  plebeian  to  the  haughtiest  noble- 
man. throuL"-  the  village  of  ,\ew  Marki^t.  The  London  papers 
give  w(H'klv  details  (if  all  the  i)articulars  of  the  proceedings 
of  New  Market,  '  tating  the  nntues  of  the  horses  and  of  (he 
owners  oftliein.and  the  .stakes  or  jiurses  for  which  the  horses 
are  run. 

l*uciUsvi.  or  ho.rimr,  is  also  a  favorite  amusement,  and 
whenever  a  match  takes  place,  attracts  immens(>  crowds. 
These  contests  would  better  befit  the  savage  beasts  of  the 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  217 

PUGILISM — GAMBLING. 

desert ;  yet  they  take  place  among  human  beings,  and  human 
beings  are  not  backward  in  urging  on  the  miserable  combat- 
ants till  nature  is  spent,  or  death  ends  the  conflict.  The  fol- 
lowing is  a  description  of  a  battle  between  two  pugihsts  called 
"deaf  Davis,"  and  a  feather-bed  maker,  named  "English,"  as 
reported  for  an  English  paper : 

Round  1.  The  deaf  one  had  hardlyput  himself  into  attitude, 
when  he  went  to  work  like  a  hammer  man,  and  floored  Eng- 
lish like  a  shot  flat  upon  his  back. 

2.  The  feather-bed  hero,  before  he  could  look  around  him 
again,  received  three  facers  in  succession,  and  was  again 
floored. 

3.  English  came  up  gamely  to  the  scratch,  when  Davis 
punished  him  in  all  directions,  and  put  in  such  a  blow  over 
one  of  his  peepers,  that  he  was  positively  electrified.  He  put 
up  his  arm  to  feel  if  he  had  not  lost  his  head,  turned  his  back, 
and  was  stopped  only  by  the  ropes.  Here  Davis  caught  his 
adversary,  and  once  more  levelled  him.  "Take  him  away," 
rang  from  all  pai'ts  of  the  ring,  "he  will  be  killed." 

4.  Contrary  to  all  expectation,  the  feather-bed  maker  was 
not  such  a  flat  as  he  seemed;  he  met  Davis  like  a  trump,  and 
after  a  terrific  rally,  Davis  was  hit  down  almost  senseless. 

5.  English  put  a  new  face,  or  rather  one  of  another  color, 
on  Davis  ;  he  milled  him  from  one  end  of  the  ring  to  the  other, 
and  by  a  flooring  hit,  levelled  the  deaf  one  in  his  native  dust. 

6.  Davis  again  took  the  lead,  and  nobbed  the  feather  hero 
to  a  stand  still;  when  English  in  turn  gave  him  a  hit  that  was 
almost  a  finisher,  on  the  knowledge  box. 

7.  This  round  was  fighting  with  a  vengeance.  The  claret 
ran  in  streams  from  both  their  mugs.  Davirs  was  floored,  and 
on  being  called,  said  to  his  second,  "he  could  not  stand."  It 
was  over  in  twelve  minutes. 

Gambling  also  is  carried  to  a  great  extent  in  the  neighbor- 
'■bood  of  St..  James's,  and  other  fashionable  parts  of  London. 
'Large  and  expensive  establishments,  appropriately  denomina- 
ted hells,  are  fitted  up  for  the  purpose,  which  are  the  resort, 
it  is  said,  of  nearly  half  of  the  young  men  of  rank  and  fortune 
in  London.  Not  being  under  the  protection  of  government, 
like  similar  gambling  establishments  in  Paris,  Milan,  &c.,  a 
certain  degree  of  secrecy  is  necessary  in  conducting  them. 
They  are  usually  opened  by  some  needy  adventvirer,  who  is 
associated  with  sharpers  and  other  notorious  characters. 
The  society  is  of  the  most  mixed  description;  the  peer  and 
tiie  black  leg  sit  familiarly  at  the  same  table.  Gambling  levels 
all  distinctions ;  and  the  proudest  and  most  aristocratic  no- 
bleman is  not  ashamed  to  pass  night  after  night  in  the  com- 
pany of  the  lowest  and  most  infamous  characters.  Ko  sooner 
has  a  young  man  of  fortune  set  foot  in  London,  than  the  mem- 
bers of  the  hells  fix  their  eye  upon  him  as  a  fit  subject  for 
fleecing,  and  vmless  he  has  sufficient  good  sense  to  be  warned 
19 


218  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

ENGLAND. 

by  the  experience  of  others,  it  is  seldom  that  he  can  avoid 
the  snare.  But  a  panibier  wlio  has  lost  liis  fortune  too  often 
has  a  ])leasure  in  reducing  all  others  to  the  same  condition. 
A  young  man  is  induced  to  visit  these  gaming  houses  from 
curiosity,  and  a  love  of  novelty.  He  plays  at  first  with  cau- 
tion, and  it  is  seldom  that  the  company  do  not  contrive  that 
he  shall  win  for  the  first  few  nights.  Excitement  soon  follows; 
loss  after  loss  at  length  renders  him  desperate ;  and  he  soon 
finds  himself  upon  a  level  with  those  whose  very  names  he 
would  have  scorned  to  ]ironounce  but  a  few  months  before. 
The  light  of  the  sun  is  excluded  from  these  asylums.  The 
shutters  are  closed,  and  night  succeeds  day,  and  day  follows 
night,  and  yet  the  gamblers  continue  in  fierce  and  desperate 
contest.  Hazard  and  i'carte  are  th(^  jirincipal  games.  The 
lights,  cards,  and  dice,  are  supplied  by  the  master  of  the 
establishment,  with  a  casual  refreshment  to  those  who  find  it 
necessary,  if  the  young  man  who  has  been  inveigled  into 
these  haunts,  can  by  any  effort  of  courage  shake  himself  free 
before  it  is  too  late,  the  experience  he  has  gained  may  be  of 
service  to  him;  otherwise  he  is  plunged  into  irretrievable 
ruin,  both  of  fortune  and  principles.* 

The  facilities  for  travelling  in  Enfrland,  and  the  comforts 
which  one  may  find  in  every  part  of  it — the  roads,  the  inns — 
the  carriages,  the  coachmen,  the  servants — all  unite  in  giving 
to  England  a  great  superiority  over  all  other  countries  on  the 
globe  for  travelling.  l<ut  then  the  cost  of  travelling  is  in  jiro- 
portion.  No  kind  of  travelling  is  more  agreeable  than  that  of 
fwstiniT.  The  post-chaise  resembles  a  common  coach,  except- 
mg  that  it  contains  but  two  seats,  and  is  shaped  like  half  the 
body  of  a  common  coach.  The  usual  rate  of  travelling  is 
about  ten  miles  an  hour.  Relays  of  post-horses  are  to  be  found 
at  that  distance,  and  whenever  the  tia\elier  desires  a  pout- 
chaise,  the  innkeeper  is  obliged  to  furnish  it. 

The  niiiil  ruac/ns,  destined  for  the  transport  of  letters,  are 
carriages  with  four  inside  and  six  outside  places.  IJehind  the 
coach  a  guard  is  s«>at((l  with  a  bhui(lert)uss,  and  a  pair  of  jiis- 
lols  before  him.  These  coaches  travel  at  the  rate  often  miles 
an  hour,  i^tu^^e  conches  are  very  elegant  carriages ;  when 
filled,  they  carry  from  fifteen  to  twenty  travellers,  besides  a 
large  weight  in  packages.  The  inside  of  the  coach  contains 
only  four  places.  The  seat  of  the  coachuian,  and  another 
seat  placed  immediately  behind  it,  admit  of  six  person.s,  and 
two  seats  facing  each  otiier  at  the  hind  whrn-Is,  alford  places 
for  six  or  eiglit  more.  These  seats  are  fixed  over  boots  or 
boxes  for  stowing  away  the  luggage.  Such  parcels  as  these 
cannot  contain,  are  placed  rtn  the  imperial.  Travellers  gene- 
rally, however,  give  a  preference  to  outside  places,  unless  in 
bad  weather ;  and  the  place  most  in  request — the  place  of  honor, 

♦  Goodrich's  Universal  GcoRrnpliy. 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  219 

TRAVELLING. 


and  one  which  even  lords  do  not  disdaui — is  the  left-hand  of 
the  coachman.     The  coachmen  themselves  are  generally  a 
respectable    class,    always    well    dressed — with    hats    broad- 
brimined,  drab-colored,  and  Q,uaker-like  small  clothes — their 
boots  topped  with  Vi^hite  ;  thus  dressed,  and  with  white  gloves, 
a  nosegay  in  their  button-hole,  aud  their  chins  enveloped  in 
an  enormous  cravat,  they  mount  their  "  well-cushioned  throne," 
and  there  they  have  a  right  to  stay,  if  they  please,  from  Man- 
chester to  London.     On  reaching  a  hotel,  where  the  horses  are 
to  be  exchanged,  the  latter  stand  ready  harnessed  in  the  mid- 
dle of  the  street— and  his  coachmanslup  looks  down  upon  his 
subjects,  the  grooms,  with  a  complacent  smile,  for  the  moment 
which  it  requires  to  take  off  and  hitch  on,  when  the  sharp  crack 
of  his  whip  announces  that  the  measure  of  the  next  ten  miles 
is  begun.     When  these  co-ordinate  sovereigns  meet,  as  they 
needs  often  must,  they  exchange  salutations,  very  significantly, 
by  raising  the  elbow  at  a  sharp  angle,  and  turning  it  out  to- 
wards each  other.    The  omission  of  this  august  etiquette,  would 
be  regarded  as  affording  sufficient  cause  for  a  complete  non- 
intercourse,  if  not  for  absolute  reprisals.     In  passing  one  an- 
other upon  the  road,  all  kinds  of  vehicles  in  Great  Britain  turn 
to  the  left,  and  not  to  the  right,  as  in  the  United  States.     This 
mode  of  passing  brings  both  the  'oachrnen  on  that  side  where 
the  danger  of  collision  lies,  and  enables  them  better  to  avoid 
it.     Each  coachman  drives  from  40  to  GO  miles,  when  he  re- 
signs his  seat  to  another.     LJpon  this,  he  advances  in  turn  to 
each  passenger,  and  touches  his  hat  with  the  tip  Of  his  finger 
— a  polite  mode  of  asking  of  each  one  a  shilling.     If  you  give 
him  iesv,  \\q  comes  to  a  dead  stand — which  is  as  much  as  to 
say,  thcit  svon't  do,  sir,  and  you  rummage  your  purse  for  a  few 
more  coppers.     Dr.  Humphrey,  to  whom  we  are  indebted  for 
the  foregoing  account,  i-elates  the  following  humorous  adven- 
ture in  his  late  tour  to  England  :  "  In  going  from  Warwick  to 
London,"  he  says,  "  it  was  quite  dark  before  wc  reached  the 
city.     After  jolting  half  an  hour  over  the  pavements,  the  ooach 
turned  into  a  narrow,  gloomy  alley,  and  our  baggage  was  ta- 
ken off.     A  porter  was  at  hand,  and  had  shouldered  my  trunks 
to  carry  them  to  a  boarding-house  in  Falcon  Square,  when  I 
put,  what  I  supposed  to  be  the  customary  tribute,  into  the  hand 
of  the  guard.     It  smote  him  like  the  shock  of  a  galvanic  bat- 
tery.    '  Put  down  that  luggage,'  exclaimed  he,  in  a  peremptory 
tone  to  the  porter.     '  What's  the  matter,'  quoth  I,  '  haven't  I 
■yiven  you  enough?'     'Enough!  do  you  call  that  enough?' 
Well,  how  much  more  do  you  ask?'     'Ask!  I  ask  nothing. 
Gentlemen  always  give  what  they  please  ;  but  that  won't  do.' 
My  spirit,  I  confess,  was  a  little  stirred  within  me.     A  man  of 
the  world,  and  at  home  in  London,  would  probably  have  called 
a  police  man,  and  taken  his  guardship  to  Bow-Street.    But 
there  I  was,  a  perfect  stranger,  in  the  night,  and  in  the  heart 
of  that  great  city,  which  I  had  never  seen  tiefore,  and  not  choos- 
ing to  get  into  a  quarrel,  just  then  and  there,  for  sixpence,  I 


220  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

ENGLAND. 

gave  the  fellow  another  metallic  shock,  about  as  hard  as  the 
first,  and  stran<i;e  to  tell,  instead  of  fallinfj  into  convulsions, 
he  walked  deliberately  awav,  sayincr,  'that  will  do  a  little 
better.'"  '    * 

The  excellent  state  of  the  7-o^r/,<f  in  England  at  all  seasons  of 
the  year  conduces  i!;reatly  to  the  pleasure  of  travelling  in  that 
country.  Their  roads  are  not  as  numerous  as  in  many  parts 
of  the  United  ;^tates,  huttheyare  kept  in  a  far  better  condition, 
and  are  pjreatiy  superior  to  the  road,s  in  France.  The  most  of 
the  great  roads  have  within  a  few  j-ears  been  M'Adamized,  and 
are  kept  in  repair  at  what  we  should  deem  an  enoinious  ex- 
pense, being,  it  is  said,  at  an  annual  cost  of  160/.  sterling  per 
mile  for  roads  of  the  first  class,  and  40/.  sterliuLT  per  mile  for 
roads  of  the  second  class.  English  roads  are  in  general  level, 
and  almost  flat.  A  slight  convexity  is  given  them,  suflkient 
to  turn  the  watei's  off  which  are  received  on  either  s\i\e  of  the 
road  by  a  species  of  gutter  paved  in  broken  stones  with  flood- 
gates. Tiie  general  repair  of  the  roads  is  confided  to  road- 
makers,  whose  employment  consists  in  picking  up  the  surface 
in  order  to  spread  the  stones;  in  causing  the  water  to  run  off, 
and  in  scrai)ingthe  mud  from  either  side,  whence  it  is  immedi- 
ately removed,  uiik>ss  intentled  for  the  purpose  of  making  foot- 
paths. The  bridges  in  England  are  either  of  brick  or  stone, 
and  are  constructed  with  reference  to  comfort,  safety,  and  du- 
rability. The  direction  of  the  English  roads  is  carefully  indi- 
cated by  tiie  aid  of  fiuLjer-posts  placed  wherever  there  are 
branch  or  cross  communications.  Other  fingerposts,  placed 
at  the  boundaries  of  villages,  enable  tiie  traveller  to  ascertain 
their  respective  names.  The  distances  aie  marked  by  mile- 
stones. Within  ten  miles  of  London,  the  roads  are  watered 
during  the  summer  at  the  expense  of  companies  to  whom  the 
undertaking  belongs.  This  inconvenient  practice  is  jiushed 
to  such  extremes  as  to  produce  a  liq4iid  mud  in  the  streets  of 
London,  even  in  the  hottest  weather.  The  object  is  less  the 
comfort  of  the  travelliT,  than  the  preservation  of  the  road. 
M'A(lami/.atif)n  has  been  very  generally  siiijstituted  in  tlie 
streets  of  Louilon,  and  in  those  of  most  towns,  in  lieu  of  the 
old  pavcm>?nt.  The  result  has  been  a  remarkable  economy,  a 
better  adaptatif)n  for  travelling,  a  great  reduction  in  the  repairs 
of  carriages,  and  an  increase  in  tiie  duration  of  the  labor  of 
horses. 

Amonir  the  wonders  of  English  civilization,  the  inns  should 
be  mentionerl.  In  many  of  the  larg<!  towns  they  are  magnifi- 
cent, and  tlx^y  are  g(»od  and  well  sup|tlied  in  the  smalli^sl.  In 
the  greater  part  of  them,  the  servants  are  in  livery,  and  in  all, 
their  attendance  is  prompt  and  respectful.  On  their  arrival, 
travellers  are  received  by  the  master  of  tlw?  house,  whose  de- 
cent firess  indicates  a  resjiectful  feelinj,'  towards  strangers. 
Introduced  into  a  well-heated,  well-furnished  room,  they  have 
never  to  wait  for  a  meal,  the  simplicity  of  which,  in  the  way 
of  cookery,  is  atoned  for  by  the  elegance,  often  the  richness  ol 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  231 

AGRICULTURE. 

the  plate  and  ware,  and  the  superior  quality  of  the  meat.  A 
sleeping-room,  as  comfortable  as  this  kind  of  apartment  (so 
neglected  in  England)  can  be,  completes  the  agreement  of 
your  sojourn.  Your  discontent  does  not  commence  till  the 
exorbitant  bill  proves  that  such  attentions,  far  from  being  dis- 
interested, are  dearly  charged  for.  Seldom  do  you  separate 
from  your  host  with  a  reciprocation  of  politeness.  Yet,  not- 
withstanding the  coldness  with  which  his  attentions  are  re- 
ceived, the  landlord  does  not  cease  to  remain  by  the  side  of 
the  traveller  till  his  carriage  is  in  motion.* 

Previously  to  the  eighteenth  century,  agriculture  in  England 
was  a  neglected  concern ;  but  during  that  century  and  since, 
great  improvements  have  been  made,  which,  notwithstanding 
the  inferiority  of  the  soil,  has  made  England  comparatively  a 
garden.  Some  of  these  improvements  may  be  here  enume- 
rated: The  gradual  introduction  of  a  better  system  of  rotation 
since  the  publication  of  Tull's  Horse-hoeing  Husbandry,  and 
other  agricultural  works,  from  1700  to  1750;  the  improvements 
of  livestock  by  Bakewell,  about  1760;  the  raised  drill  system 
of  growing  turnips,  the  use  of  lime  in  agriculture,  and  the  con- 
vertible husbandr}^,  by  Pringle,  and  more  especially  by  Daw- 
son, about  1765;  the  improved  swing  plough,  by  Small,  about 
1790;  and  the  improved  thrashing  machine,  by  Meikle,  about 
1795.  As  improvements  of  comparatively  limited  application 
might  be  mentioned,  the  art  of  tapping  springs,  or  what  has 
been  called  Elkington's  mode  of  draining,  wliich  seems  to 
have  been  discovered  by  Dr.  Anderson,  from  principle,  and 
Mr.  Elkington,  by  accident,  about  1760,  or  later,  and  the  re- 
vival of  the  art  of  irrigation,  by  Boswell,  about  1780.  The 
field  culture  of  tlie  potato,  shortly  after  1750;  the  introduc- 
tion of  the  Swedish  turnip,  about  1790;  and  of  mangold 
wurtzel  more  recently,  have,  with  the  introduction  of  other 
field  plants,  and  improved  breeds  of  animals,  contributed  to 
increase  the  products  of  agriculture  ;  as  the  enclosing  of  com- 
mon field  lands  and  wastes,  cind  the  improvements  of  mosses 
and  marshes,  have  contributed  to  increase  the  produce  and 
salubrity  of  the  general  surface  of  the  country. f 

In  nothing,  perhaps,  is  English  agriculture  more  worthy  of 
notice  than  in  the  adoption  of  a  system  of  a  rotation  of  crops, 
dependent  upon  the  now  well-established  principle  "that  one 
kind  of  vegetable  will  grow  and  flourish  well  in  a  soil  from 
which  another  kind  of  vegetable  has  just  been  gathered,  while 
an  attempt  to  raise  another  crop  of  the  first  vegetable,  or  a 
crop  of  a  third  vegetable,  immediately  after  the  first,  in  the 
same  soil,  would  be  attended  with  little  or  no  success.''^  More 
has  been  accomplished  both  in  England,  and  the  United  States, 
within  the  last  thirty  years,  from  an  observance  of  this  prin- 
ciple, than  in  a  century  before.     The  system  is  still  but  par- 

*  Baron  D'Haussez.  +  Loudon. 

t  This  is  as  stated  by  M.  Macaire  of  Geneva. 
19* 


222  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

ENGLAND. 

tially  adopted,  more  in  England  than  the  United  States,  but  its 
advocates  in  Ijoth  countries  are  yearly  increasing,  and  corres- 
ponding agricultural  income  is  the  result. 

English  agrifulture  is  also  worthy  of  notice  in  its  endeavors 
to  improve  the  hrefd  of  cattle.  Bakewell  lias  the  honor  of  lead- 
ing the  way,  and  I\Litthew  and  George  CuUey  of  extendinc  the 
improvements  of  the  former.  Horses,  cows,  and  sheep,  have 
been  brought  to  great  perfection  in  England,  and  are  the  basis 
of  agricultural  sjjcculations  and  prolits.  Each  county  has  its 
peculiar  breed. 

Horses  are  bred  in  meadows,  in  the  middle  of  which  they 
find  shelter  in  open  stables.  Cows  and  oxen  pass  the  summer 
in  the  fields,  and  the  winter  in  encloscnl  cututyards,  in  which 
they  are  fed  with  hay  and  turnips.  Sheep  are  turned,  the  whole 
year  round,  into  fields  sown  with  turnips  and  trefoil.  They 
are  prevented  from  straying  away,  by  wickets  and  moveable 
paling  or  hurdles. 

The  custom  of  irrigation  does  not  prevail,  indeed  it  is  not 
properly  understood  in  English  agriculture.  There  arc 
few  countries  in  which  this  tiseful  practice  is  followed,  tliough 
the  abundance  of  water  should  make  it  obtain  everywhere. 
In  general,  the  English  are  either  inditi'erent  to,  or  they 
misdirect  the  labor,  that  should  be  bestowed  on  natural  mea- 
dows. In  this  branch  of  agriculture,  one  sees  nothing  in  Eng- 
land, which  beais  a  comparison  with  the  practice  that  obtains 
in  France. 

Oxen  are  rarely  used,  and  always  ill-employed  in  agricul- 
tural labor.  Six  are  yoked  to  a  plough,  which  could  be  easily 
drawn  by  two.  These  animals  are  almost  bred  to  do  no  ser- 
vice. At  fi»ur  years  old,  they  are  fattened,  and  delivered  over 
to  the  knife  of  the  butcher. 

The  rarity  of  land  carriage  may  be  ranged  among  the  num- 
ber, and  indeed  as  one  of  the  main  causes,  of  English  agri- 
cultural prosperity.  Neither  the  men,  nor  the  animals,  in 
cultivating  the  earth,  jiarticipate  in  this  branch  of  industry. 
It  is  not  so  in  France.  Whatever  prejudice  may  be  the  result 
to  husbandly,  the  hope  of  a  profit  suffices  to  induce  the  farmer 
to  postpone  the  cultivation  which  the  land  recpiires.  Hence 
arise  delays,  inconveniences,  and  what  is  wor.se,  the  loss  of 
agricultural  liabits.  In  England,  on  the  contrary,  the  husband- 
man is  never  turned  from  the  lousiness  in  hand,  and  the  seden- 
tary life  wliich  he  leads,  fosters  the  taste  for  the  species  of 
labor  which  agriculture  retpiires. 

The  appearance  of  the  rural  habitations  is  the  same  as  in 
France;  thoug^h  the  number  and  extent  of  the  dependent  build- 
ings be  much  less  in  Enghmd,  w  hen  compared  with  those  of 
th'>  former  country,  still  there  is  a  greater  intelligence  displayed 
in  the  orderly  disposal  and  arrangement  of  each  object,  and  a 
more  obvious  cleanliness  than  on  the  other  side  of  the  straits. 
Farm  houses  are  rrOen  built  of  planks,  painted  white,  or  pitch- 
ed and  tarred  over;  sometimes  of  brick  or  stone,  with  roof? 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  223 

MANUFACTURES. 

thatched,  tiled,  or  slated.     Compact  earth,  prepared  as  it  is  in 
France,  is  little  used  in  England. 

Owing  to  the  agricultural  habitsof  England,  many  buildings 
are  not  required.  With  the  exception  of  horses,  all  animals 
arekeptinthe  open  air,  in  summer  as  well  as  in  winter.  The 
harvests,  of  whatever  nature,  are  stacked.  The  corn  is  not 
carried  into  the  barn  till  the  operation  of  thrashing  is  to  be 
commenced.  If  this  mode  of  preserving  it  saves  the  expense 
of  the  necessary  outlay  for  the  building  and  repair  o^barns,  it 
nevertheless  superinduces  a  much  greater  annual  expense  than 
the  interest  of  the  money  required  for  such  a  building  fund, 
when  the  cost  of  hand,  labor,  with  the  stacking  and  unstack- 
ing  of  the  corn,  the  loss  and  destruction  of  the  grain,  and  the 
facility  afforded  to  incendiaries,  are  taken  into  account. 

Farming  offices  are  generally  built  round  a  square  court,  in 
which  the  cattle  are  enclosed  for  the  very  short  time  during 
w^hich  they  are  prevented  from  grazing.  In  many  counties 
the  house  is  in  the  centre  of  the  farm — a  location  which  must 
obviously  save  much  labor.  In  the  United  States,  the  farm 
house  is  otlen  at  one  corner  of  the  farm,  from  which  circum- 
stance the  transport  of  the  manure  and  the  crop  is  slow  and 
expensive.* 

Upon  the  whole,  agriculture  in  England  is  far  in  advance  of 
that  of  many  other  countries;  still  it  is  not  better  perhaps  than 
that  of  Brabant,  of  Flanders,  or  of  the  provinces  of  Artois  and 
Normandy,  or  perhaps  of  some  parts  of  France  and  Belgium. 
It  presents  here  and  there  beautiful  masses  of  cultivation, 
owing  to  the  consolidation  of  fortunes,  the  peculiar  taste  of 
certain  proprietors,  and  the  union  of  large  capitals,  all  of  which 
advantages  are  incidental  to  England  in  a  greater  degree 
than  in  France.  But  a  well-cultivated  field  is.  pretty  much  the 
same  in  both  countries. 

In  mamifactiiring  skill,  enterprise,  and  accomplishment, 
England  surpasses  all  other  nations,  whether  ancient  or 
modern.  A  large  proportion  of  her  population  are  employed 
in  manufacturing  establishments  ;  yet  by  means  of  machinery, 
labor  is  performed,  which  more  than  one  hundred  times  that 
population  would  not  be  able  to  accomplish.  It  is  stated  upon 
respectable  authority,  that  in  some  manufacturing  establish- 
ments, by  means  of  labor-saving  machinery,  one  man  is  able 
to  do  the  work  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  ;  and  that  fifty  millions 
of  men,  half  a  century  since,  would  not  have  accomplished  in 
the  cotton  manvifactures,  what  is  done  at  the  present  time. 

Cotton  goods  are  chiefly  manufactured  in  Manchester  and 
its  neighborhood ;  woollen  goods  principally  in  the  West  Ri- 
ding of  Yorkshire,  at  Leeds,  Wakefield,  Bradford,  Hahfax, 
and  Huddersfield  ;  cutlery  and  plated  goods  at  Sheffield ; 
hardware  at  Birmingham ;  ribands  at  Coventry ;  carpeting  at 

♦  Baron  D'Haussez. 


224  .  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 


ENGLAND. 


Kiiltl(Mininster  ;  flannels  at  Salisbury;  silk,  iron,  and  china- 
warr,  in  ttu>  midland  cnuntios ;  and  in  the  southern  counties 
cotton,  iKiper,  and  blankets,  &c.  &c.  The  yearly  manufac- 
tures of  cotton  are  valu(>d  at  £2(\000,000 ;  those  of  woollen  at 
£lS.nno,000;  of  silk  at  £10.000,000;  and  the  linen  exported  at 
•£2,000,000.  The  iron  weighed  in  Great  Britain  in  1827,  was 
690,000  tons.  The  value  of  hardware  in  cutlery  exported  in 
1824,  was  £1,090,880,  and  of  tin  plates  £254,514. 

We  designed  to  notice  the  process  of  mnnufaclui-ing  several 
articles;  but  our  limits  allow  us  to  describe  but  one,  viz.  j;m«, 
the  quantity  of  which  made  in  England  has  exceeded  in  value 
J5;4,000,0()0  annually. 

"This  simple  article,  which  occupies  so  important  a  station 
on  the  toil(>t  of  a  lady,  in  the  course  of  its  manufacture  passes 
in  detail  through  nearly  as  many  hands  as  the  comjilicated 
mechanism  of  the  watch.  One  peison  is  em|)loyed  to  polish 
the  wire ;  a  second  to  cut  it  in  suitable  pieces,  each  of  the 
length  of  two  pins;  a  third  person  takes  several  of  the  pieces 
between  his  thumb  and  forefinger,  and  applies  them  to  a  cir- 
cular steel  grin(iing-whc(>l  or  rasp.  The  pieces  of  wire  for  a 
dozen  or  more  pins,  are  thus  sharpened  at  once  by  the  opera- 
tor, who  dexterously  causes  all  of  them  to  turn  sinuiltaneously 
between  his  thumb  and  finger ;  whereby  the  points  are  ren- 
dered round  and  acute.  A  fourth  jicrson  divides  each  of  these 
pieces  in  the  middle,  to  form  two  pins,  and  slips  on  tlie  heads 
(which  are  formed  by  a  fifth  person)  over  the  shank  of  the 
wire.  A  sixth  person  now  takes  the  rudely  formed  pins,  rivets 
the  heads,  and  jiasses  them  to  a  seventh  workman,  who 
whitens  them  by  means  of  a  composition  of  melted  tin.  The 
scouring,  or  brightening,  or  })olishing,  occupies  another  hand, 
and  the  ninth  in  the  series  is  busily  engaged  in  sticking  the 
pins  into  papers  for  packing."* 

The  prntestavl  relifsiov,  nccnrdinf^  to  the  Episcopal  form,  is 
the  established  religion  of  England.  The  king,  whether  an 
atheist  or  a  believer,  stands  at  the  limul  of  the  church.  Next 
to  him  ranks  the  archbishop  of  f'aiitcrbury,  who  is  calh^d  the 
Primate  of  all  Isngland,  and  next  to  him  is  the  archbishop  of 
York,  called  the  Primate  of  England.  Under  these  are  twen- 
ty-four bisho|)s,  all  of  whom,  except  the  Hishoji  of  Sodor  and 
Man,  are  peers  of  the  icalm,  and  hold  seats  in  the  House  of 
Lords. 

The  bench  of  bishop.s  numbers  individuals  as  distinguished 
by  their  talents  as  by  their  morals ;  but  their  interfejence  in  the 
j)oIitica]  concerns  of  the  nation  has  been  a  stain  ujion  their 
character,  and  under  the  late  s|)irit  of  reform  a  loufl  dc^mand 
has  been  made  to  exclude  them  from  their  seat  in  parliament. 
The  revenues  of  the  bishops  are  princely — by  far  too  great  for 

•  Practical  Tourist. 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  235 


RELIGION. 


thcT  spiritual  good,  and  the  good  of  the  establishment.  It  was 
stated  in  1830  in  the  House  of  Commons,  that  the  income  of 
the  Bishop  of  London  would  soon  amount  to  100,000/.  a  year, 
and  that  of  the  Bishop  of  Wincliester  to  50,000/. 

Among  the  estabhshed  clerf!;y  of  the  English  church,  there 
are  those  who  are  decidedly  pious,  and  devoted  to  their  spirit- 
ual calling  ;  but  there  are  those,  whOj  asa  writer  remarks,  are 
oftener  seen  at  Epsom,  Doncaster,  and  New  Market,  at  the 
sporting  parties  of  Norfolk  and  Yorkshire,  than  in  the  pulpit. 
The  clerical  costume  interferes  in  England  with  none  of  the 
enjoyments  of  the  world  ;  those  who  wear  it  do  not  hesitate  to 
appear  at  balls  and  routs,  or  in  opera  stalls  ;  and  they  have  no 
scruples  at  being  seen  in  a  box  at  the  Adelphi,  or  the  Olympic. 

The  secret  of  this  lax  state  of  morals  and  manners  of  the 
Eno-lish  clergy  lies  in  the  right  of  ipresentalion  to  churches, 
which  are.  held,  not  by  the  people,  who  have  no  choice  in  the 
election  of  their  ministers,  but  in  the  king  and  bishops,  in  the 
lord  chancellor, in  cathedral  and  collegiate  establishments,  and. 
in  the  aristocracy  and  gentry.  For  example,  the  king's  pat- 
ronage is  the  bishopricks— the  deaneries— thirty  prebends — 
twenty-three  canonries,  and  1018  livings.  The  lord  chancellor 
presents  to  all  livijigs  under  the  value  of  20/.  in  the  king's  book, 
which  are  780,  besides  21  prebendal  stalls.  The  bishops  have 
in  their  hands  1600  places  of  church  preferment ;  the  two  Uni- 
versities 600  ;  the  colleges  of  Eton  and  Winchester  57  ;  one 
thousand  are  in  the  gift  of  cathedrals  and  collegiate  establish- 
ments ;  the  remainder  are  in  the  gift  of  the  aristocracy  and  the 
gentry.  In  1814,  there  were  6311  church  livings  held  by  non- 
residents. Of  these,  1523  employed  curates,  leaving  4788  en- 
tirely neglected.  Under  such  an  arrangement  of  ecclesiastical 
affairs,  is  it  strange  that  men  should  be  preferred  who  are  ut- 
terly destitute  of  piety  ?  And  is  it  strange  that  true  religion 
should  suffer  as  a  consequence?  Yet  there  are  connected 
with  the  establishment,  not  a  few  clergymen  of  evangelical 
principles ;  who  preach  the  gospel  in  its  purity,  and  who  are 
the  means  of  training  up  a  spiritual  generation  of  holy  and 
devoted  friends  of  the  Redeemer. 

Disconnected  with  the  establishme"nt  are  numerous  religious 
denominations.  Mr.  Southey  enumerates  more  ihanforty-tico, 
of  which,  under  the  name  of  dissenters,  the  Congregationalists, 
or  Presbyterians,  Methodists,  Baptists,  and  Quakers,  are  the 
most  respectable. 

The  people  of  England  are,  in  general,  strict  observers  of  the 
Sabbath,  and  most  of  the  churches  have,  on  that  day,  a  numei'- 
ous  and  attentive  congregation.  It  is  a  high  encomium  which 
a  French  writer  passes  upon  England,  "that the  Sabbath  pro- 
duces there  an  absolute  suspension  of  business,  labor,  and 
pleasure."  He  adds,  although  in  terms  which  would  seem  to 
indicate  a  sort  of  regret  that  it  is  so,— yet  states  the  fact,  that, 
"unless  at  those  hours  when  the  monotonous  and  prolonged 
jingling  of  bells  call  the  faithful  to  prayer,  all  is  sad,  motion- 


226  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

ENGLAND. 


less,  silent.  It  rarely  happens  that  the  rolling  of  a  carriage 
comes  to  intornipt  the  meditations  of  those  wlio  pray,  or  to 
distract  the  ennui  of  those  wliom  custom  conlincs  at  home. 
The  approach  of  carriasjes  to  cliurch  is  forbidden  during  the 
progress  of  Divine  service.  All  places  of  public  amusement 
are  closed — the  most  innocent  domestic  recreations  are  ban- 
ished for  the  day.  If  the  sounds  of  a  piano  are  heard,  it  is 
in  tlie  accompaniment  to  psalms.  In  many  houses,  the  in- 
mates dine  on  cold  meats,  prepared  the  day  before,  so  that 
the  servants  may  be  relieved  from  all  labor.  The  reading 
of  a  sermon  is  the  only  recreation  allowed.  Will  it  then  be 
said  that  a  religious  spirit  does  not  exist  in  England  ?"' 

'•On  certain  serious  occasions,  when  the  country  is  menaced 
or  struck  with  some  great  calamity,  the  parliament  originates, 
and  the  kino;  ordains  a  fast.  No  one  omits  to  abstain  on  this 
day,  or  ventures  to  turn  the  measure  into  ridicule.  Wliat 
would  the  liberal  and  unbelievers  of  France  have  said,  if.  in 
consequence  of  an  epid(>mic,  Charles  X.  had  ordered  his  sub- 
jects to  abstain  from  dinu(M-?  There  would  have  resounded 
cries  of  Jesuitism,  the  dominion  of  priests,  superstition,  etc. 
The  journals  could  not  liave  found  space  enough  in  the  limits 
of  their  columns,  nor  caricaturists  ridicule  enough  to  shower 
down  on  the  head  of  the  king  and  his  o;overnment.  Williani 
IV.  orders  a  fast  to  allay  tlie  cholera,  and  every  one  actually 
fasts,  goes  to  church,  anil  gives  abundant  alms.  Is  it  from  obe- 
dience to  the  laws,  from  respect  for  power  ?  Yes,  but  it  is  aUo 
from  a  .s/j/r/V  nf  relii^ion. 

"There  are  frw,  even  among  those  most  indifferent  to  le- 
ligion,  who  would   dispense  with   the   hearing  of  a   sermon 
tlK)uah  it  dwelt  ujion  the  most  unpalatal)le  truths,  which  can 
])e  r(Midered  neither  K-ss  repugnant  nor  more  attractive  by  the 
talents  of  the  preacher,  or  with  being  present  at  the  service 
that  immediat<'iy  follows,  if  some  friend   proposed  it  to  them. 
The  reason  of  this  is  to  be  found  in  \\w.  tlread  of  making  a  pa- 
rade of  irrelii^ion.     Every  one  appears  collected  during  the 
sermon— pious  dining  the  service.     People  listen,  keep  their 
eyes  on  their  book,  join  in  the  hymn,  kneel  with  the  congrega 
tion,  put  their  head  in  their  hands,  and  appear  (|uite  absorbed 
in  pious  thout^hls  ;  no  one  comiilains,  on  leaving  churcii,  ol 
the  length  of  the  service.     For  the  profane,  nevertheless,  there 
is  no  compensation  to  be  found  in  the  commonplace  eloquence 
of  the  preacher,  nor  in  the  harmony  of  a  choir  of  children  of 
twelve  years  of  age,  mingled  with  the  sharp  voices  of  men  of 
fifty,  the  whole  accompanied   by  tlx;  favorite  instrument  of 
England— an  organ.     The  P^nglish  behave  themselves  deco- 
rou'sly  in  church  ;  they  demean  themselves  as  they  ought  in 
the  house  of  God.     They  may  be  either  eunuye  or  iin))atient 
while  there;  that  is  very  possible;  but  at  least  they  do  not 
show  that  they  are  so.     Would  it  be  thus,  if  the  religious  prin- 
ci])lc  were  not  deeply  rooted  in  the  national  mind?"* 

*  Boron  D'llauasez. 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  227 


GOVERNMENT. 


The  government  of  England  is  a  constitutional  hereditary 
monarchy,  in  which  the  power  of  the  sovereign  is  controlled 
by  the  influence  of  the  aristocracy  in  the  House  of  Peers,  and 
by  that  of  the  democracy  in  the  House  of  Commons.  The 
executive  authority  is  vested  in  the  kin<T;  the  legislative,  in  the 
king  and  Parliament.  The  king  has  tlie  power  of  appointing 
all  the  great  officers  of  state,  and  all  the  executive  acts  of  the 
government  are  performed  in  his  name  ;  but  the  ministers 
only  are  responsible  for  them;  for  the  king  himself  can  do  no 
wrong. 

The  principal  council  of  the  sovereign  is  his  privy  council, 
the  members  of  which  are  chosen  by  him.  They  are  styled 
Right  Honorable,  and  are  sworn  to  preserve  secrecy. 

The  Cabinet  or  Cabinet  Council,  consists  of  those  ministers 
of  State  who  hold  the  highest  rank  in  England.  The  number 
of  members  varies  generally  from  10  to  14;  consisting  of  the 
Lord  Chancellor,  the  Lord  Privy  Seal,  the  President  of  the 
Council,  the  First  Lord  of  the  Treasury,  the  CJKincellor  of  the 
Exchequer,  the  three  principal  Secretaries  of  state,  the  First 
Lord  of  the  Admiralty,  and  commonly  some  others  of  the  prin- 
cipal officers  of  government.  The  First  Lord  of  the  Trea- 
sury is  considered  as  the  Premier,  or  Prime  Minister  of  the 
country. 

The  Parliament  of  Great  Britain  is  the  great  council  of  the 
nation,  constituting  the  legislature,  which  is  summoned  by  the 
king's  authority,  to  consult  on  public  allairs,  and  enact  and  re- 
peal laws.  It  consists  of  Lords  Spiritual  and  Temporal,  called 
the  Peers,  or  Upper  House;  and  Knights,  Citizens,  or  Bur- 
gesses, who  are  comprehended  under  the  name  of  the  Com- 
mons, or  Lower  House. 

The  House  of  Lords  is  composed  of  all  the  five  orders  of 
nobility  of  England,  dukes,  marquises,  earls,  viscounts,  and 
barons,  vvho  have  attained  the  age  of  21  years,  and  labor  under 
no  disqualification  ;  of  16  representative  peers  from  Scotland  ; 
28  representative  peers  from  Ireland  ;  2  English  archbishops 
and  24  bishops  ;  and  4  representative  Irish  bishops.  In  1830, 
the  total  number  of  the  House  of  Peers  was  401. 

The  House  of  Commons  consists  of  658  members,  of  whom 
513  are  from  England  and  Vt'ales  ;  45  from  Scotland,  and  100 
from  Ireland.  They  are  chosen  by  counties,  cities,  boroughs, 
and  the  two  universities.* 

The  House  of  Lords,  like  the  Senate  of  the  United  States, 
is  a  far  more  grave  and  dignified  body  than  the  House  of  Com- 
mons. The  latter  corresponds  with  the  popular  branch  of  the 
national  legislature  of  the  United  States.  The  members  of  the 
House  of  Commons  present  a  motley  group.  They  are 
dressed  in  the  most  careless  fashion,  in  frock-coats,  in  boots, 
with  their  hats  on,  or  with  an  umbrella  under  the  arm.  They 
listen  to  few  of  the  speeches.     They  but  re'pcat  the  cry  of 


*  American  Almanac,  1835. 


S2S  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

ENGLAND. 

"  hear,  hear,"  with  intonations  which  <rive  to  the  words,  alter- 
nately, a  meaning  of  approbation  or  disapprobation,  as  they 
perceive  their  friends  wlio  have  heard  the  speaker,  cheering 
ironically  or  in  earnest.  They  talk,  move  about,  cross  the 
room,  without  attention  to  him  who  speaks  or  those  who 
listen.  It  is  the  custom  not  to  leave  the  house  without  turn- 
ing towards  the  speaker,  and  bowing  to  him  with  becoming 
respect. 

English  orators  speak  extempore,  many  of  them  from  notes. 
With  some  exceptions,  sjieakers  of  the  house  are  not  charac- 
terized for  mucli  grace.  A  majority  of  tliose  who  speak  in 
our  American  Congress  speak  as  well,  if  not  better,  than  the 
orators  of  St.  Stephen's.  American  speeches  are,  in  general, 
much  longer  than  those  heard  in  the  House  of  Commons.  In 
tiie  latter,  the  most  Important  projects  are  discussed  and  deci- 
ded at  a  single  sitting;  in  the  House  of  Representatives,  a  de- 
bate, on  perhajis  some  question  of  minor  importance,  is  con- 
tinued for  weeks. 

The  expensef  of  the  English  government  are  far  beyond 
those  of  any  other  on  the  alobe,  amountinix  for  the  ^var  1H30, 
to  210,000,00U  dollars.  The  salary  of  tiie  Prime'  Minister, 
is  £5,000;  that  of  the  Lord  Lieutenant  of  Ireland,  £23,153. 
The  salaries  of  officers,  pensions,  sinecures,  &c.,  exceed 
£9,000,000  annually.  Pensions  are  granted  for  all  sorts  of 
service  from  £4.000  downward.  The  list  of  jiensioners  is  said 
to  be  1500.  Of  sinecures  there  is  a  large  number,  exceeding 
in  amount  nearly  a  million  and  a  half  of  dollars.  The  family 
of  the  Duke  of  Wellington  has  received,  it  is  said,  £62,000,  or 
nearly  half  a  million  of  dollars,  for  scrrircs  in  a  single  year. 
These  immense  expenses  are  met  by  taxes  upon  every  luxury, 
and  upon  almost  every  article  of  comfort  and  convenience, 
and  even  necessity,  tiirougliout  the  kingdom. 

We  shall  conclude  oin*  account  of  England,  with  a  brief 
notice  of  the  inhabitants  of  Walks,  which  lies  on  the  western 
side  of  the  island.  The  Welsh  are  descendants  of  the  ancient 
IJritons,  who,  though  they  have  long  liv(.'d  under  the  Eng- 
lish governnvnt.  Ktill  remain  an  umni.ved  race,  and  adhere 
to  the  customs  of  their  forefiithers.  Their  language  is  a  di- 
alect of  the  Celtic  ;  but  in  the  towns,  the  English  is  generally 
spoken.  ^Vales  was  a  seat  ol"  learninir  at  a  very  early  pe- 
riod, and  furnished  the  Anglo-Saxons  with  an  alphabet.  In 
more  recent  times,  it  has  produced  some  eminent  literary 
c  haracters. 

In  thfir  j)pr.9on.t.  the  Welsh  are  generally  short  and  stout- 
liinbed.  The  women,  Tjr  the  most  |iart,  have  jiretty  round 
laces,  clear  compicxion.s,  with  dark  expressive  eyes,  and  good 
tcelh.  The  higlier  class  dress  like  the  English;  but  in  the 
more  humble  ranks,  the  national  costume  is  preserved,  which, 
for  both  men  and  women,  is  composed  of  home-made  woollen 


A  Highland  Bagpiper.        P.  287. 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  229 

WALES. 


cloth.  The  coat,  breeches,  and  stockings,  of  the  men  are  al- 
ways blue,  and  their  waistcoats  red.  Their  shirts  are  of  blue 
or  red  flannel,  except  in  some  parts  of  the  northern  counties, 
where  they  are  striped.  The  common  dress  of  the  females  in 
South  Wales  consists  of  a  jacket,  made  tight  to  the  shape,  and 
a  petticoat  of  dark  brown  or  striped  linsey-woolsey,  bound 
with  different  colors.  Young  women  wear  mob-caps,  pinned 
under  the  chin,  and  small  round  felt  or  beaver  hats,  like  the 
men.  Tlie  elderly  women  commonly  wrap  up  their  heads  in 
two  or  three  colored  handkerchiefs,  over  which  they  put  a 
large  felt  hat.  Both  young  and  old  throw  a  scarlet  whittle 
across  their  shoulders,  which  completes  their  dress.  In 
North  Wales,  the  costume  is  similar,  except  that  the  whittle 
is  superseded  by  a  large  blue  cloak,  descending  nearly  to 
the  feet,  wiiich  is  worrT  at  all  seasons,  even  in  the  hottest 
weather.  Linen  is  rarely  used;  flannel  being  substituted  in 
its  place.  Nor  are  shoes  or  stockings  worn,  except  some- 
times in  fine  weather;  and  these  are  carried  in  the  hand,  if 
the  owner  be  going  any  distance,  and  put  on  only  at  or  near 
the  place  of  "destination,  the  feet  being  first  washed  in  a 
brook. 

The  women  of  \\\eh}<}:her  class  are  generally  well  informed, 
and  possess  great  volubility  of  speech,  with  a  considerable 
portion  of  satirical  wit.  The  men,  who  pay  much  less  atten- 
tion to  mental  attainments,  are  great  sportsmen,  and  hospita- 
ble, but  often  addicted  to  excessive  drinking;  and  so  irritable, 
that  trifling  provocations  have  engendered  quarrels  that  have 
not  subsided  through  many  generations.  They  are  very  liti- 
gious ;  and  there  are  few  countries  in  which  lawyers  are  so 
Xiumerous,  or  so  much  employed. 

The  women  o^  the  lower  order  are  sober  and  industrious: 
they  assist  in  tilling  the  ground,  and  manufacture  clothing  for 
themselves  and  families;  for  to  them  belongs  the  whole  pro- 
cess of  spinning  the  woo],  and  knitting  the  yarn  into  stockings, 
or  of  dying  and  weaving  it  into  cloth,  flannel,  or  blankets. 
They  are  very  tender  mothers,  and  carry  their  children  tied 
upon  their  shoulders  wherever  they  go.  The  men  are  less  in- 
dustrious than  the  women,  and  do  not  work  so  many  hours, 
nor  with  so  much  energy,  as  Englishmen. 

The  Welsh  are  religious  observers  of  the  Sabbath;  and  the 
poorest  cottager  and  his  fiimily,  however  numerous,  are  always 
clean  and  decent  on  that  day.  They  still  retain  many  of  their 
ancient  superstitions,  prejudices,  and  customs ;  and  are  ex- 
tremely credulous  on  many  points,  which  persons  of  more  en- 
lightened understandings  regard  as  mere  illusions.* 

*  Aspen's  Cosmorama. 


20 


230  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

SCOTLAND. 


2.  SCOTLAND. 

Scotlaiiil  occupios  the  norlhorn  portion  of  Iho  island  of  Oront 
Britain,  and  was  formerly  an  independent  kinsjdom,  between 
which  and  England  many  sanijuinary  wars  were  wajjed.  And 
t!iou2;h  they  are  now  united  under  one  constitution,  Scotland 
still  letains  her  pi^culiar  forms  of  ecclesiastical  and  common 
law,  and  her  Presbyterian  form  of  chmxh  government.  Her 
population  somewhat  exceeds  two  millions. 

The  Scotch,  an  n  prnplr^  arc  vinre.  spare  than  the  Enp-lish,  and 
generally  have  hi^li  cheek  bones.  Their  countenances  have 
a  staid,  hardy,  and  somewhat  weather-beaten  appearance.  In 
national  character,  they  hold  a  hi9;h  rank.  They  are  a  p;rave, 
sober,  sincere,  and  reliLrious  people,  and  attached  to  their  su- 
periors, whether  that  superiority  is  derived  from  rank,  wealth, 
official  dignity,  talents,  or  virtue.  Out  of  their  own  country, 
they  are  peculiarly  noted  for  their  industry  and  enterprise,  and 
few  of  them  return,  till  tliey  have  cai  ned  a  comjielfMicy  to  sup- 
l)ort  them  in  their  old  age.  Like  the  EuLclish,  tliev  are  distin- 
guished by  their  courage,  by  their  love  of  domestic  life,  and 
by  a  contempt  for  every  thing  like  show,  or  theatrical  effect. 
13y  their  enemies,  tlie  Scotch  have  been  considered  as  display- 
ing u  pliaiicy  or  servility  of  ciiaracter;  but  if  this  remark  'is 
the  result  of  observation  and  not  of  malignity,  it  must  be  drawn 
from  the  study  of  that  part  of  the  i)opulation  which  have  but 
iccently  escaped  from  tl:e  influenoe  of  feudal  habits,  or  must 
have  been  witiiessed  in  those  districts,  where  the  power  or  the 
kindness  of  the  chieftain  still  calls  forth  the  humility  or  the  af- 
fection of  his  vassals.  In  the  lov.lands  of  Scotland,  the  p«H)|)Ie 
have  the  sam.e  independence  of  cliaiacter  as  the  Knglis!),  and 
■vve  should  be  disposed  tosav.  that  the  Scottish  peasantiy  even 
surpass  their  neighbors  in  lliat  respect,  in  so  far  as  they  sur- 
pass tliem  in  education  and  general  knowledge,  w  liich  are  the 
sure  foundation,  and  the  best  tests  of  independence  of  charac- 
ter. There  is  nothing  more  characteristic  of  the  Scottish 
peasantry  than  their  re.'-pect  for  the  Sabbath.  In  place  of 
spending  the  Sabbath  day  in  idi<>ness  and  gayety.  the  Scottish 
peasant  accouijianies  his  family  to  the  Hfiuse  ol"  Prayer;  and 
however  small  maybe  his  means,  he  appears  in  clean  and  de- 
cent attire.  A\'hen  the  service  is  over,  he  instructs  his  children 
in  the  duties  of  religion,  reads  witli  them  the  holy  scriptures, 
and  perhaps  accompanies  tiiem,  when  these  duties  are  dis- 
charged, to  sotne  romantic  and  s«>questered  scenes,  to  con- 
template the  beauties  of  the  material  world.  This  observance 
of  the  Sabbath  is  no  doubt  the  |)rinci])al  cause  of  the  superior 
information,  and  the  .sober  and  moral  habits  of  the  people. 

In  addition  to  the  foregoing,  the  l()]lowiiig  remarks  upon  the 
coudition  and  manners  of  the  Scotch,  from  the  travels  of  Pro- 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  231 

HOUSES. 

fessor  Sillirnan,  will  be  fouad  interesting.  "  The  lower  class 
of  people  in  Scotland,  so  far  as  1  have  seen  them,  appear  less 
comfortable  than  in  En2;Iand.  Even  now,  in  winter,  some  of 
the  female  servants,  in  Edinburgh,  walk  about  the  streets  over 
ice-cold  pavements,  or  through  mud  and  snow,  withouL  shoes 
or  stockings  ;  in  London  I  never  saw  girls  in  service,  so  desti- 
tute. But  it  is  not  surprising  that  in  Edinburgh  they  should 
not  be  able  to  obtain  necessary  clothing,  for  their  wages  are 
only  three  guineas  a  year,  and  in  some  of  the  lodging  houses, 
they  are  obliged  to  give  an  account  of  all  the  money  which  is 
given  them,  by  the  lodgers,  that  it  nuiy  be  deducted  from  their 
wages.  We  have  no  examples  of  sucli  poverty  in  America  ; 
even  a  southern  negro  is  better  provided  for ;  still,  these  poor 
girls  can  read  and  write,  and  cast  accounts,  and  they  are  the 
most  civil  and  attentive  of  servants. 

"  The  steps,  doors,  and  common  passages  of  the  houses  in 
EdinTjurgh,  excepting  the  houses  of  the  gentry,  are  extremely 
dirty.  This,  however,  arises  principally  from  the  fact  that  the 
most  of  the  houses  are  occupied  by  a  number  of  families  at 
once  ;  they  live  in  different  stories,  or,  as  they  call  ihem^Jlets^ 
of  the  same  house,  and  go  out  and  come  in  through  a  common 
door,  which  is  always  open  ;  it  thus  happens  very  frequently 
that  families  live  in  the  third  or  fourth  story ;  the  kitchen  and 
all  their  apartments  are  at  this  lieight,  and,  of  course,  there 
is  a  great  deal  of  labor  in  carrying  articles  up  and  down  so 
many  stairs ;  the  stairs,  as  well  as  the  houses  themselves,  are 
of  stone.  Families  that  live  under  the  same  roof,  and  use 
constantly  the  same  passage,  have,  often,  no  connexion  with 
each  other. 

"  The  height  of  the  houses  in  Edinburgh  is  proverbial,  and 
the  use  of  so  many  stories  is  very  evident.  On  this  subject 
there  is  some  exaggeration.  It  is  true  that  some  houses  rise 
to  the  astonishhig  lieight  of  fourteen  stories,  and  I  hav^e  re- 
peatedly seen  them  of  nine  and  ten  ;  but  these  very  lofty 
houses  are  always  (as  far  as  I  have  seen  them)  erected  on  the 
steep  declivities  of  hills,  where  on  one  side,  that  ne<ar  the  sum- 
mit of  the  hill,  there  will  not  be  more  than  three  or  four  stories, 
wliile  on  the  other,  there  may  be  more  than  twice  that  number. 
The  average  height  through  the  whole  town,  is  probably  not 
m,ore  than  live  or  six  stories  ;  for,  in  the  new  town,  and  in  the 
most  genteel  parts  of  the  old,  the  houses  are  not  generally 
more  than  three  or  four  stories  high. 

*'  There  is  a  custom  in  Scotland  v/hich  would  appear  some- 
what singular  to  American  ladies.  Immediately  after  the  cloth 
is  removed,  rum,  gin,  whiskey,  or  other  ardent  spirits,  are 
placed  upon  the  table,  and  the  lady  who  presides  otfers  each 
guest  a  dram ;  the  thing  is  not  veiled  under  any  polite  peri- 
phrasis, for  the  question  is  put  in  palpable  terms.  Will  you 
drink  a  dram?  The  answer  is  commonly  in  the  affirmative, 
and  a  glass  of  raw  spirits  is  poured  out,  without  water,  and 
passed  from  one  to  another,  each  individual  drinking  succes- 


232  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLEIl. 


.SCOTI.AM). 


sively  from  tlie.same  glass,  which  is  rcpit'iiished  as  fast  as  it 
is  emptied.  This  practice  is  general,  and  nearly  as  common 
among  the  ladies  as  gentlemen,  but  the  dram  is  always  di  imk 
with  moderation,  and  seems  to  be  merelyan  interlude,  before 
the  regular  round  of  wine-drinking  commences.  Healths  are 
<lrunk  with  wine  during  dinner,  as  with  us,  and  this  is  com- 
mon in  England  also,  lioth  dinners  and  sujipers,  when  they 
are  meant  to  he  hospitable,  are  liere  concludeil  by  the  drinking 
of  hot  toddy.  A  pitcher  of  hot  water  is  placed  upon  the  table 
and  each  guest  is  furni.shed  with  a  laige  ff»ot-glass.  holding 
nearly  a  pint,  in  which  he  mixes  his  water,  spirits,  and  sugar, 
in  sucii  |)roportions  as  he  pleases ;  whiskey  is  preferred  on 
these  occasions,  init  tiiat  of  the  Highlands,  which  is  the  best, 
is  so  expensive,  in  consetiuence  of  (he  excise,  that  it  is  not 
universally  used. 

"Each  foot-glass  has  a  siuall  wooden  ladle,  which  is  em- 
ployed to  dip  the  hot  toddy  out  into  wine-glasses,  from  which 
it  is  drunk. 

"  The  ladies  are  not  supplied  with  foot-glasses,  but  the  gen- 
tlemen occasionally  lade  out  some  of  their  own  hot  toddy  into 
the  wine-glasses  of  the  ladies,  who  thus  partake  of  this  bever- 
age, although  with  much  moderation. 

"  It  might  perhaps  be  inferred,  tliat  such  habits  must  lead  to 
intemperance;  it  cannot  be  doubtt-d  that  they  have  a  bad  ten- 
dency, and  although  I  have  never  seen  a  single  instance  of 
excess  in  this  way,  it  may  well  be  presumed  that  the  fumes  of 
such  a  hot  infi^riating  mixture  must  occasionally  turn  the 
brains  of  parties  not  restrained  by  considerations  of  decorum 
or  of  religion. 

"  And  indeed,  among  the  most  sober  people,  it  is  easy  to 
perceive  sonn^  exhilaration  producefl  by  the  hot  toddy,  as 
they  sit  and  sip  from  hour  to  hour;  and  it  sometimes  haj)i)ens 
that  a  circle,  before  mute,  becomes  suddenly  garrulous  and 
brilliant. 

"The  manners  of  the  Scotch  are  full  of  affection  and  cor- 
diality; on  partintr,  after  their  little  social  interviews,  they  all 
shake  hands  with  each  other,  and  with  the  strangers  who  may 
be  present ;  the  ladies  do  it  as  well  as  the  gentlemen,  nor  is  it 
a  mere  formality,  but  the  frank  and  warm  exjiression  of  gen- 
erous feeling;  one  hearty  Scotch  fznod-niuhl  is  worth  a  thou- 
sand hows  of  cerenu)ny. 

"The  food  which  is  seen  at  genteel  Scotch  tables  is  very 
similar  to  that  used  in  England,  and  with  us,  but  they  still  re- 
tain some  of  their  own  national  dishes."* 

Thr  fh'psn  ttf  tho  Lowlamlrrii  is  the  same  as  that  of  the  Eng- 
lish. In  thf  Highlands,  the  ancient  costume  has  fallen  greatly 
Into  disuse,  and  a  Highland  chief,  in  the  full  dress  of  his  coun- 
try, is  only  seen  on  extraordinary  occasions.     It  is,  however, 


•  Silliinan's  Journal. 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  233 


STYLE  OF  BUILDING. 


Still  retained  by  many  of  the  peasantry,  and  is  composed  of  a 
checked  woollen  stuif,  called  tartan^  woven  in  stripes  of  vari- 
ous colors,  crossing  each  other  at  right  angles.  Above  the 
shirts,  the  Highlander  wears  a  waistcoat,  with  sleeves  of  this 
stuff;  and  over  his  shoulders  he  throws  his  plaid,  which  is 
also  of  tartan,  and  commonly  about  twelve  yards  in  width. 
This  is  sometimes  fastened  round  the  middle  with  a  leathern 
belt,  and,  hanging  down  before  and  behind,  sU]->plies  the  place 
of  breeches.  This  dress  the  Highlanders  call  a  phelig,  but 
the  Lowlanders  call  it  a  kilt.  A  kind  of  short  petticoat,  of  the 
same  variegated  stuff,  is  also  frequently  worn,  and  is  denom- 
inated a  ])hflibesr ;  this  reaches  nearly  to  the  knee,  and  with 
short  tartan  stockings,  tied  below  the  knee  with  garters,  form- 
ed into  tassels,  completes  the  dress.  The  lower  classes  cover 
their  feet  with  brogues  of  untanned  leather,  and  their  heads 
with  a  llat  blue  cap,  or  bonnet,  as  they  call  it,  made  of  a  par- 
ticular kind  of  thick  woollen  cloth.  A  kirge  leathern  purse, 
richly  adorned  with  silver,  hanging  in  front,  was  always  an 
appendage  to  the  dress  of  a  Highland  chief,  who  also  wore  in 
the  belt  of  his  phelibeg,  his  knife,  dirk,  and  iron  pistol ;  the 
last,  sometimes  of  fine  workmanship,  and  curiously  inlaid  with 
silver. 

The  dress  of  the  Highland  women  consists  of  a  petticoat 
and  jerkin,  with  close  sleeves,  over  which  they  wear  a  plaid, 
fastened  under  the  chin,  and  falling  in  graceful  folds  to  the 
feet.  Round  the  head  they  fold  a  kerchief,  or  a  piece  of  fine 
linen,  in  various  forms  ;  though  the  young  women  have  rarely 
more  than  a  riband  for  this  purpose.  Shoes  and  stockings 
are  little  worn  by  the  Highland  feinales,  except  among  the 
higher  classes.  In  bad  weather,  the  plaid  is  raised  from  the 
shoulders,  and  thrown  over  the  head. 

In  the  Lowlands  of  Scotland,  the  food  of  the  people  does  not 
differ  essentially  from  that  of  the  English  peasantry.  Animal 
food  is  certainly  less  Used  than  in  England,  and  spirituous  li- 
quors are  tnnch  more  common.  The  Lowland  Scotch  are 
now  better  lodger!,  their  houses  are  kept  with  a  greater  degree 
of  cleanliness,  and  if  they  do  not  in  these  respects  rival  their 
English  neighbors,  they  are  advancing  towards  them  with  ac- 
celerated steps.  In  the  Highlands  of  Scotland,  we  regret  to 
say,  that  the  cottSiges  are,  generally  speaking,  of  the  worst  de- 
scription, and  are  as  uncomfortable  within  as  they  are  squalid 
without.  The  diet^f  the  Highlanders  is  principally  oatmeal, 
potatoes,  and  milk;  fish  being  much  used  on  the  coast. 

The  style  ofhnilding.s  in  Scotland  is  less  tasteful,  expensive, 
and  commodious,  than  in  England.  In  the  older  towns,  the 
houses  are  generally  of  stone,  with  the  ends  to  the  street. 
The  entrance  is  frequently  by  a  pair  of  stairs  ascending  to  the 
second  story  on  the  exterior  of  tiie  building,  while  the  descent 
to  the  ground  floor  is  by  stair?  from  within.  The  modern  part 
20* 


234  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 


SCOTLAND* 


of  Edinburgh,  called  the  New  Town,  contains  numerous  edi- 
fices wliich  are  highly  splendid  and  ma^nidcent.  Tlie  habita- 
tions of  the  Highlanders  are  i^enerally  built  in  glens,  or  val- 
leys, by  the  side  of  a  hike,  or  near  a  river  or  stream,  with  a 
little  arable  land  adjoining.  Tlie  walls  are  of  turf  or  stones, 
raised  about  six  feet  high,  on  the  top  of  which  is  a  roof,  con- 
structed with  the  branches  of  trees,  and  covered  with  turf,  on 
which  the  grass  continues  to  grow,  so  that  a  traveller,  at  a 
little  distance,  distinguishes,  with  dilhculty,  a  hut  from  a  green 
hillock.  The  interi<jr  is  divided  into  three  compartments,  viz. 
the  butt^  or  kitchen,  the  benn,  or  inner  room,  and  the  byar,  or 
cattle  stall.  The  partition  botwecMi  tliese  apartments  is  fre- 
quently no  more  than  an  old  blanket,  or  piece  of  sail  clothv 
in  the  kitchen,  and  sometimes  in  the  inner  room,  arecupl)oard- 
beds  for  the  family:  but  more  frequently  when  the  fnc  on  the 
ground  is  extinguished,  lliey  lay  tlieir  bed  of  heath  and  blank- 
ets on  the  spot,  on  account  of  the  earth  being  dry. 

The  following  interesting  account  of  an  adventure  in  the 
Highlands,  is  given  by  the  author  of  the  Practical  Tourist. 
"  Feeling  a  curiosity  to  see  the  interior  of  some  of  the  poor 
hovel'!,  built  of  loose  stones  and  covt^ed  with  thatch,  I  entered 
one  of  them  for  the  purpose,  and  asked  for  a  draught  of  water* 
Ttie  thin  blirc  peat  smoke  was  issuing  from  the  front  door  as 
I  approached   it,  and   from   every  crevice  of  the  roof     Im- 
mediately on  entering,  I  foimd  myself  at  the  heels  of  a  cow, 
the  front  door  of  the  hovel  opening  into  her  apartment,  which 
served  at  the  same  time  for  the  principal  entrance  to  the  only 
furnished  room  of  the  house.    This  room  seemed  to  be  at  once 
the  parlor,  kitchen,  and  bed-room.     An  old  lady  was  busily 
employed  over  a  peat  lire  in  preparing  some  wool  for  coml> 
ing,  for  making  worsted  (or  plaids.     The  smoke  ascended  in 
edTlies  to  the  roof,  and  partially  escaped  through  a  hole  in  the 
thatch  ;  for  in  onliM"  to  prevent  the  drops  of  n-.in  falling  jier- 
pendicularlv,  and  extinguishing  the  (ire,  lite  liole  in  tiie  thatch 
is  not  made'  directly  above  the  hearth.     The  old  lady  .suspend- 
ed her  enqilovment  as  I  entered,  and  raising  herself,  viewed 
me   attentively,  to  ascertain    my  wishes.     The  color  of  her 
countenance  was  sallow,  or  ratlier  of  a  satVron  sliade,  from 
the  etfect  of  the  constant  smoke,  or  peat  reek,  as  it  is  here 
caHed.     Her  small  gray  eyes  appeared  sunk  in  their  socket*!, 
as  if  they  had  retreated  there  fiom  the  smoke  that  must  per- 
petually olieiid  iJKMTi.     Site  v.as  truly  hos]>itidile,  olfenng  me 
some  ^^uttermilk  instead  of  water.     The  sharp  acid  of  the  li- 
quor, tT)gcther  T,  ith  the  smoke  of  the  )-oom,  caused  tears  to 
start  from  my  eyes,  while  the  mui:  was  at  my  lips. 

"  Having  bestowed  a  small  gratuity  and  thanked  her  for  her 
hospitality,  I  took  a  hasty  glance  at  the  furniture  of  her  apart- 
ment. A  sort  of  bunk,  built  of  boards,  served  for  a  beadstead, 
in  one  corner,  and  a  few  earthen  dishes,  tubs,  and  pots,  with 
H  rudely  made  case  of  drawers,  seemed  to  constitute  all  the 
worldly  gear  belonging  to  the  hovel.     The  Iloor  was  of  earth, 


Universal  traveller.  235 

LANGUAGES. 

or  mud,  hardened  by  frequent  tread.  The  inmate,  however, 
appeared  cheerful  and  quite  content-ed  with  her  humble  cot-. 
The  opposite  door  of  the  room  led  into  the  sheep-fold,  where 
the  flock  is  kept  in  winter.  Most  of  the  hovels  we  passed  are 
built  upon  the  same  plan,  having  a  stable  at  one  end,  and  the 
dwelling  room  opening  into  it.  Healthy  little  children  ap- 
peared seated  at  the  doors,  eating  their  bannocks  or  parrich, 
made  of  oatmeal.  The  former  sometimes  resembles  what  is 
called  in  New  England  an  Indian  journey  cake,  or  Johnny 
cake,  and  the  latter,  hasty  pudding  or  mush.  Oats,  in  truth, 
seem  to  form  the  principal  constituent  of  the  bread."* 

The  inliabUants  of  Scotland  speak  three  different  hwguages, 
the  English,  the  Scotch,  and  the  Gaelic.  The  English  lan- 
guage is  spoken  by  all  well  educated  persons  in  every  part  of 
the  kingdom.  It  is  used  in  all  written  deeds,  and  in  all  works 
in  prose.  The  Scotch  language,  which  is  used  by  all  the  low- 
er class  in  the  Lowlands,  and  even  by  many  old  persons  of  the 
higher  ranks,  is  still  employed  in  their  national  poetry.  The 
Gaelic  language  is  spokt^n  in  ev^erypart  of  the  Highlands ;  but 
almost  all  the  Highlanders  are  acquainted  witii  English,  which 
is  taught  in  all  their  schools. 

The  Scotch  language,  or  that  which  is  spoken  in  the  Low- 
lands of  Scotland,  has  generally  been  regarded  as  a  corrupt 
dialect  of  th.e  English,  or  of  the  Anglo-Saxon  ;  and  those  who 
have  maintained  this  opinion,  have  not  scrupled  to  fix  upon 
some  era  at  which  it  was  imported  from  the  South.  Their 
eminent  antiquarian.  Dr.  Jamieson,  however,  who  at  first  en- 
tertained this  opinion,  was  led  to  investigate  the  subject  with 
much  attention,  and  the  result  of  his  investigation  was,  that  the 
language  of  the  Lowlands  of  Scotland  is  as  much  a  separate 
language  as  "the  English ;  and  that  its  t)asis,  like  that  of  the 
English,  is  Teutonic,  Avith  a  sti'ong  mixture  of  Gaelic  and 
B'rench.  * 

Various  causes  have  combined  to  sink  the  estimation  of  the 
Scottish  tongue.  It  is  no  longer  the  language  of  the  noble, 
the  opulent,  and  fashionable,  nor  are  the  transactions  of  pub- 
lic and  private  business  conducted  in  it.  It  is  but  seldom 
partially  employed  in  conversation  by  the  more  enlight-ened 
and  accomplished.  It  is  heard  chiefly  from  the  mouths  of  the 
low,  illiterate,  and  unpolished.  It  abounds,  hoAvever,  in  terms 
and  phrases  connected  with  domestic  and  social  life,  with 
rural  scenery,  sentiments,  and  occupations;  and  hence  is  pecu- 
liarly fitted  for  pastoral  poetry,  and  the  lighter  odes.  It 
surpasses  in  humorous  representations,  and  is  far  from  being 
unsuited  to  the  plaintive  and  tender.  The  poems,  and  espe- 
cially the  songs  of  Burns,  illustrate  and  confirm  these  obser>- 
Vations.  In  the  sublimer  kinds  of  poetry,  it  is  deficient  in  majesty 
and  compass. 

*  Practical  Tourist. 


236  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

SCOTLAND. 

The  Gaelic  lanc;uage  is  still  the  universal  lantruage  of  the 
Hi«;hlands.  It  is  a  dialect  of  the  Celtic,  dialects  of  which  are 
also  spoken  in  Ireland,  Wales,  and  the  Spanish  province  of 
Biscay. 

Of  Scottish  litrrnti/re,  we  cannot  adequately  speak  in  this 
place.  In  ueneral.  liowiner,  ve  may  loniark,  that  there  is 
scarcely  a  department  in  the  wide  lieid  of  iearninu;  and  research, 
in  which  the  Scotch  have  not  been  highly  distin.snished.  In 
mathematical  and  .phy^^ical  science,  the  names  of  James  and 
David  Gre2;ory,  of  Sla'claurin.  Simpson,  Black,  Iliitton,  Kobin- 
son,  Playfair,  and  Ivory,  will  be  lonp;  remembered.  In  the 
))ractical  arts  of  civil  en»:ineerin,ir,  the  labors  of  Watts,  Mur- 
dock,  Rennie,  and  Telford,  will  bear  testimony  to  the  remotest 
times,  of  their  pre-eminent  talents.  In  history,  Fordiin,  Cu- 
chanan,  Robertson,  and  Smollett,  have  shone  forth  with  the 
highest  lustre.  Amoiio;  their  ethical  writeis  may  be  emnnera- 
ted  Reid,  Smith.  Reattie,  Oswald,  Campbell,  Lord  Karnes,  Lord 
Monboddo,  and  Stewart;  amon<^  novelists,  Smollett,  Moo>-e, 
Mackenzie,  and  Sir  ^Valter  Scott;  amoni>  their  anatomists 
and  physicians,  the  Grei;ories  and  the  .Monroes ;  anion*,' cri- 
tics. Blair  and  Kames  -,  among  antiquaries,  Lord  nailes,Gi?ddes, 
Pinkerton,  G(>o.  Chalmers,  and  Dr.  Jamieson  ;  among  divines, 
Macknight,  Blair.  Lo-ran,  MoricreilV.  and  Alison;  amonjr  paint- 
ers, Runciman,  Jamieson,  Raebnrn,  Thomson,  and  Wilkie; 
and  among  poets,  Lermont,  Barbour,  Douglas,  Ramsay, 
Thompson,'  IMallet,  Armstrong,  Arbuthnot,  Mickle,  Smollett, 
Beattie,  Ferguson,  Burns,  Mackenzie,  Baiilie,  Scott,  and 
liyron.* 

Scotland  is  ccJi-hrnted  for  its  music  ;  but  the  style  which  pre- 
vails in  the  north,  or  Highland  country,  is  entirely  ditlerent 
from  that  which  is  most  relished  in  tin,"  southern  provinces. 
The  songs  of  the  latter.  Dr.  Beattie  remarks,  are  "  all  sweetly 
and  powerfully  expressive  of  love  and  tenderness,  and  other 
emotions  suited  to  tlie  tranfinillity  of  pastoral  life."  On  the 
contrary,  the  nuisieal  compositions  of  the  Highlands  "exhibit 
the  wildest  irregularity  ;  the  expression  is  warlike  and  melan- 
choly, and  approiiches  even  to  the  terrible."  Of  musical  in- 
struments, the  Iliiihiand  pipe  is  peculiar  to  Scotland,  and  will 
excite  a  Scotchman  in  the  same  way  that  the  sound  of  the 
trumpet  gives  animation  to  the  war-horse,  or  a  fandango  will 
excite  a  Spaniard.  In  the  following  beautiful  language  a 
Scotch  writ<'rt  sjicaksof  the  bag])ii>o.  "In  halls  of  joy,  and  in 
scenes  of  mourning,  it  has  prevailed  ;  it  has  aninuited  her  war- 
riors in  battle,  and  welccuned  tln-m  back  after  tlieir  toils,  to  the 
homes  of  their  love  and  the  hills  of  tiieir  nativity.  Its  strains 
were  the  lirst  sounded  on  the  cars  of  infancy,  and  they  are  the 

•  New  Edinlnirph  F,nrvrlnp<<Iin. 

+  .'MacDonald,  in  his  Ancient  Mariial  Music  of  Coledonia, 


tfNiVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  237 

MUSIC. 

laat  to  be  forgotten  in  the  wanderings  of  age.  Even  Highland- 
ers will  allow  that  it  is  not  the  gentlest  of  instruments;  but  when 
far  from  their  mountain  homes,  what  sounds,  however  melodi- 
ous, could  thrill  round  their  heart  like  one  burst  of  their  own 
wild  native  pipe?  The  feelings  which  other  instruments  awa- 
ken are  general  and  undefined,  because  they  talk  ahke  to 
Frenchmen,  Spaniards,  Germans,  and  Highlanders,  for  they 
are  common  to  all ;  but  the  bagpipe  is  sacred  to  Scotland,  and 
speaks  a  language  which  Scotsmen  only  feel.  It  talks  to  them 
of  home  andlsil  the  past,  and  brings  before  th-em,  on  the  burn- 
ins;  shores  of  India,  the  wild  hills  aiid  oft  frequented  streams  of 
Caledonia,  the  friends  that  ai'e  thinking  of  them,  and  the  sweet- 
hearts and  wives  that  are  weeping  for  them  there!  And  need  it 
be  told  here,  to  iiow  many  fields  oif  danger  and  victory  its  proud 
strains  have  led?  There  is  not  a  battle  that  is  honorable  to 
Britain,  in  which  its  war-blast  hi^s  not  sounded.  When  every 
other  instrument  his  been  hushed  by  the  confusion  and  carnage 
of  the  scene,  it  has  been  borne  into  the  thick  of  battle,  and,  far 
in  the  advance,  its  bleeding  but  devoted  bearer,  sinking  on  the 
earth,  has  sounded  at  once  encouragement  to  his  countrymen 
and  his  own  coronach." 

Numerous  anec/lotes  are  related  of  the  effects  of  this  instru- 
ment on  the  hardy  sons  of  Caledonia.  "  In  the  war  in  India, 
a  piper  in  Lord  McLeod's  regiment,  seeing  the  British  army 
giving  way  before  superior  numbers,  played  in  his  best  style 
the  u^ll  known  Cogadh  na  Sith,  which  filled  the  Highlanders 
with  such  spirit,  that,  immediately  rallying^  they  cut  through 
their  enemies.  For  this  fortunate  circumstance,  Sir  Eyre 
Coote,  filled  with  admiration,  and  appreciating  the  value  of 
such  music,  presented  the  regiment  witii  fifty  pounds,  to  buy  a 
stand  of  pipes.  At  the  battle  of  Q,uebec,  in  1760,  the  troops 
were  retreating  in  disorder,  and  the  general  complained  to  a 
field  officer  in  Fraser's  regiment,  of  the  bad  conduct  of  his 
corps :  '  Sir,'  said  the  officer  with  a  degree  of  warmth,  •  you 
did  very  wrong  in  forbidding  the  pipers  to  play;  nothing  in- 
spirits the  Highlanders  so  much;  even  now  they  would  be  of 
some  use.'  'Let  them  blow,  in  God's  name,  then,'  said  the 
general;  and  the  order  being  given,  the  pipers  with  alacrity 
sounded  the  Gndnneachadh,  on  which  the  Gael  formed  in  the 
rear,  and  bravely  returned  to  the  charge.  George  Clark,  now 
piper  to  the  Highland  Society  of  London,  was  piper  to  the  71st 
regiment  at  the  battle  of  Vimiera,  where  he  was  wounded  in 
the  leg  by  a  musket  ball  as  he  boldly  advanced.  Finding  him- 
self disabled,  he  sat  down  on  the  ground,  and  putting  his  pipes 
in  order,  called  out,  '  Weel,  lads,"l  am  sorry  I  can  ga  na  far- 
ther wi  you,  bit  deel  ha  my  saul  if  ye  sail  want  music;'  and 
struck  up  a  favorite  warlike  air,  with  the  utmost  unconcern 
for  any  thing,  but  the  unspeakable  delight  of  sending  his  com- 
rades to  battle  with  the  animating  sound  of  the  piobrachd. 

"  At  all  rural  occupations  in  the  Highlands  it  has  been  ob- 
served that  labor  is  accompanied  by  singing.     Where  music 


238  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

IRELAND. 

can  be  had,  it  is  preferred.  A  piper  is  often  regularly  enganjed 
in  iiarvest  lo  animate  tiie  reapers,  and  he  generally  keeps  be- 
hind the  slowest  worker."* 

Tlie  Scotch  verf  formerly  e.rceedivpfy  superstitious^  espe- 
cially the  Ilisihlandprs;  but  as  they  become  more  enliirhtened, 
their  superstitious  tendencies  are  diminit^hed.  Mairias^e  is 
usually  performed  by  the  clerciy;  justices  are  allowed  to  per- 
form the  ceremony,  and  even  a  declaration  by  the  parties  be- 
fore competent  witnesses,  that  they  take  each  other  "  for  bet- 
ter, r)r  worse,"  is  dtMMiied  a  valid  maniaije.  In  the  south  of 
Scotland  is  a  small  villa;;^;  known  by  the  name  of  iin-tna 
Green,  which  for  more  than  a  hundred  years  has  been  the  re- 
sort of  fugitive  lovers,  whom  their  parents  and  fiiends  forbid, 
but  who  were  determined  to  be  no  longer  "twain,  but  one 
flesh."  At  CJretna  Green.  tlrMe  formerly  lived  an  old  bhick- 
smith,  who  was  always  ready  to  undertake  the  weliliti^  prmess. 
It  is  said  that  between  sixty  and  seventy  such  hymeneal  jobs 
are  yearly  executed  at  this  noted  spot,  althou<xh  the  master  of 
the  forire  of  Vulcan  has  given  place  to  tlie  minister  of  religion. 
Funerals  among  (he  Scotch  are  conducted  much  after  the 
manner  of  similar  solemn  services  in  New  England.  In  the 
Highlands,  the  Gaelic  manner  is  sometimes  observed  with 
feasting  and  feslivity,  accompanied  with  the  conmach,  or  fune- 
ral dirge,  and  the  shrieking  of  women.  Long  processions  are 
common,  as  in  most  parts  of  Scotland,  all  the  relatives  of  the 
deceased  being  ex^iected  to  attend.  The  funeral  ceremony  is 
performed  in  silence,  and  the  corpse  i^  carried  to  the  grave 
and  interred  without  a  word  being  spoken. 


3.  IRELAND. 


Before  passing  to  the  Continent,  Ireland  will  claim  our  at- 
tention. 13i(lding  adieu,  therefore,  lo  Scotland,  let  us  direct 
our  course  thitlier.  We  mi^ht  indeed  ado|)t  the  usual  course, 
and  taking  a  steamboat  at  Glasgow,  proceed  to  Helfast,  touch- 
ing at  Greenock,  about  twenty-five  miles  below  the  latter  place. 
But  this  would  be  at  a  charge  of  five  dollars  for  the  passage, 
besides  other  charges  for  board,  &.c.  Were  it  pleasant  weather, 
we  might  make  the  jiassageon  deck  at  about  one  dollar.  But 
preferring,  as  I  doul)t  not  you  will,  an  aerial  passage,  subject 
to  no  charge,  and  devoid  of  the  dangers  of  an  Irish  sea,  we 
will  launch  forth,  and  here,  anon,  we  fmd  ourselves  in  the 
land  uC '•  iywtilc  J/daiul." 

As  our  principal  business  is  with  the  population  of  the  coun- 
try. I  would  inform  you  that  at  the  last  census,  which  was 

*  Logan's  ijcullish  Gael. 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  239 

CONDITION  OF  THE  COMMON  PEOPLE. 

made  in  1821,  it  amounted  to  nearly  7,000,000.  They  are 
chiefly  of  English  descent  in  the  eastern  parts,  Celtic  in  the 
west,  and  Scotch  in  the  north.  Yon  will  observe  great  nation- 
al pecnharity  of  features,  which  serves  to  distinguish  them  from 
most  other  people  on  the  globe.  Among  the  lower  classes, 
there  is  little  personal  beauty.  This  is  attributed  to  the  infe- 
rior mode  of  living.  In  England,  the  meanest  cottager  is  bet- 
ter fed,  clothed,  and  lodged,  than  the  most  opulent  Irish  farmer, 
who,  vmaccustomed  to  the  comforts  of  life,  has  recourse  to 
deep  potations  of  ardent  spirits,  which  stunts  the  growth  of 
the  race.  In  the  superior  classes,. where  these  impediments 
do  not  prevail,  the  men  acquire  the  standard  height  of  English- 
men, and  the  females  have  a  prepossessing  appearance. 

Dauntless  valor,  ardor  of  affection,  incorruptible  fidelity  in 
keejiing  secrets,  impatience  of  injury,  implacability  in  resent- 
ment, unbounded  hospitality,  strong  local  attachment,  parental 
and  filial  tenderness,  insatiable  inquisltiveness.  endless  loqua- 
city, acuteness  and  shrewdness,  mixed  with  blundering  precipi- 
tancy, mark  the  genuine  Irishman,  with  whom  every  thing  is 
in  extremes.  lie  entertains  a  high  idea  of  himself,  and  the 
advantages  of  his  country,  is  greedy  of  praise,  irritated  by 
censure,  and  easily  oftended.  Though  sometimes  parsimo- 
nious, he  is  more  generally  improvident,  enjoying  the  present 
moment  without  thought  of  the  future. 

The  common  people  are  in  a  miserable  state  of  poverty.  In 
the  country  they  live  in  mean  huts,  or  cabins,  built  of  clay  and 
straw,  partitioned  in  the  middle  by  a  wall  of  the  same  mate- 
rials. One  of  these  apartments  accommodates  the  family, 
wiio  live  and  sleep  promiscuously,  having  their  turf  fire  in  the 
midst  of  the  iloor.  with  an  opening  through  the  roof  for  the  es- 
cape of  the  smoke:  the  other  is  occupied  by  a  cow,  or  such 
articles  of  lumber  as  are  not  in  immediate  use.  Potatoes,  with 
coarse  bread,  eggs,  milk,  and  occasionally  fi.sh.  constitute 
their  food;  for,  however  plentifully  the  surrounding  fields  may 
be  stocked  with  cattle,  these  poor  natives  are  so  oppressed 
and  squeezed  by  their  imperious  landlords  and  lease-holders, 
that  they  rai'ely  taste  butcher's  meat. 

In  no  part  of  Ireland  are  the  extremes  of  wealth  and  pover- 
ty more  conspicuous  than  in  Dublin.  In  his  "  Practical  Tour- 
ist," Mr.  Allen  thus  notices  the  contrast.  "As  a  contrast  to 
the  splendor  of  the  public  buildings  of  Dublin,  the  appearance 
of  extreme  poverty  in  some  of  the  obscure  streets  is  very  sur- 
prising. In  passing  through  several  of  these  streets  on  Sun- 
day, the  clusters  of  persons  collected  in  them,  resembled,  in 
dress,  crowds  of  beggars,  instead  of  being  clothed  in  the  clean 
linen  and  decent  attire  so  commonly  observed  on  this  day  in 
every  town  and  hamlet  in  England.  Most  of  the  groups  of 
persons,  however,  appeared  merry  and  free  from  care,  indul- 
ging occasionally  in  peals  of  vociferous  laughter  and  mirth, 
that  seemed  to  make  amends  for  their  want  of  most  of  those 
iejiternal  objects  of  enjoyment,  in  the  full  possession  of  which 


240  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 


IRELAND. 


an  Enjj;lishman  or  an  American  will  usually  appear  grave 
Although  the  day  was  excessively  warm,  I  nt)tic(^d  a  tall,  ro- 
bust man  with  a  florid  lace,  wrajipcd  up  carefully  in  a  f^rcat- 
coat.  Wliilst  I  stood  observins;  the  siiiiriilarity  ol  his  appear- 
ance, clothed  in  s(}  heavy  a  {garment  on  a  warm  day.  a  slight 
breeze  blew  aside  the  skirt,  unveiling  his  brawny  linihs  invest- 
ed only  in  a  shirt,  the  color  of  which  seemed  to  indicate  that 
it  had  never  been  parted  liom  the  wearer  during  a  temporary 
immersion  in  a  wash-tui).  A  lad  also  passed  me,  whose  pan- 
taloons were  so  much  rent  as  to  hang  loosely  suspended  from 
his  wair,t  in  front,  like  a  sort  of  apron,  or  curtain,  his  bare 
knees  protrudiiigat  every  step  from  beneath  the  floating  screen. 
One  mi"ht  heie  almost  credit  the  assertion  of  an  lii:5li  travel- 
ler, wh(7  states  that  there  are  very  many  ragged  jieople  that 
sleep  in  their  clothes,  because  if  they  pulled  olf  their  loosely 
stitched  raijs,  they  would  never  succeed  in  getting  them  on 
a,"-ain.  Tiicy  have  a  sutluieat  supply  of  potatoes,  and  vege- 
tate in  raffs  and  wretchedness." 

It  is  stated  by  Mr.  Youngs  that  "  in  England  half  the  life,  and 
the  vip-or  of  youth  of  a  man  and  woman,  are  passed  before 
they  can  accii.niilate  a  t;:nall  suui  for  pin-chasing  furniture  and 
building  a  cottage  ;  and  when  tliey  have  got  tliem,  so  burden- 
some are  the  poor  to  a  parish,  that  it  is  twenty  to  one  il  they 
get  permission  to  erect  their  cottage.  iJut  in  Ireland,  the  cabin 
is  not  an  ohji'ct  of  a  moment's  consideration,  being  a  hovel 
erected  with  two  day's  lahiir ;  and  hence  the  want  of  a  habi- 
tation is  no  bar  lo  early  marriages." 

The  inhabitants  of  some  of  the  provinces  live  throughout 
the  year  alnifist  eiitiiciy  on  potatoes  ;  oat-nn^al  beirig  consider- 
ed as  a  luxury  i  athi  r  tiiau  a  icgular  articl<'  of  rliet.  The  food 
of  the  inhabitants,  even  in  times  of  plenty,  is  the'poorest  kind 
which  human  beings  can  sub-^ist  upon. 

Notuithstandiiiir  the  general  poverty  wliicli  iirevail.s,  the 
hosiiilality  of  tl.i-  irisli,  when  their  cireum.staiK cs  nr«'  not  too 
wretch.'d  to  disjjiay  it,  is  remarkably  great.  The  neighbor  or 
tJie  stranger,  observes  "  The.Strangcr  in  Ireland,"  finds  every 
man's  door  open,  and  to  walk  in  witlioiit  ceremony  at  meal- 
time and  to  jiartakc  of  his  bfiwl  of  potatoes,  is  always  suie  to 
pive'ph'asure  t<i  every  one  of  tbe  house,  and  the  i)ig  is  turned 
out  to  make  room  for  the  gentleman.  If  the  visiter  can  relate 
a  lively  tale,  or  play  upon  any  instrument,  all  the  family  are 
in  smiles,  and  tin-  vouiig  will  begin  a  mi-rry  dance,  whilst  the 
old  will  smoke  ai'tt'r  one  another  out  of  the  same  pipe,  and  en- 
tertain each  other  with  .stories.  A  gentleman  of  an  erratic 
tmii  was  }ioint(<l  out  to  me,  who,  with  his  flute  in  his  hand, 
a  clean  pair  of  stockings,  and  a  shirt  in  his  pocket,  wandered 
throuffh  the  (v^mntry  every  summer;  wlierexcr  he  sto])ped  the 
face  of  a  .stranffer  made  him  welcome,  and  the  sight  of  his  in- 
strument doubly  so;— the  best  seat,  if  they  had  any,  the  best 
potatoes  and  new  milk,  were  allotted  for  his  dinner ;  and  clean 
straw,  and  sometimys  a  jiair  of  sheets,  formed  his  bed;  which 


A  Russian  Soldier.     P.  366. 


1.0 


A  Highland  Chief.         P.  233. 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  241 


-INSTRUCTION  OF  THE  COMMON  PEOPLE. 


although  frequently  not  a  bed  of  roses,  was  always  rendered 
welcome  by  fatigue,  and  the  peculiar  bias  of  his  mind. 

Curran,  in  one  of  his  celebrated  speeches,  thus  beautifully 
described  the  native  hospitality  of  his  country:  "The  hospi- 
tality of  other  countries  is  a  matter  of  necessity,  or  conven- 
tion ;  in  savage  nations  of  the  first,  in  polished  of  the  latter; 
but  the  hospitaUty  of  an  Irishman  is  not  the  running  account 
of  posted  and  legered  courtesies,  as  in  other  countries;  it 
springs,  like  other  qualities,  his  faults,  his  virtues,  directly 
from  "the  heart.  The  heart  of  an  Irishman  is  by  nature  bold, 
and  he  confides;  it  is  tender,  and  he  loves;  it.  is  generous, 
and  he  gives;  it  is  social,  and  he  is  hospitable." 

Their  native  urhanlty  to  each  other  is  very  pleasing;  I  have 
'frequently  seen  two  boors  take  off  their  hats  and  salute  each 
other  with  great  civility.  The  expressions  of  these  fellows 
upon  meeting  one  another,  are  full  of  cordiality.  One  of 
them  in  Dublin  met  a  camrogue,  in  plain  English,  a  boy  after 
his  own  heart,  who,  in  the  sincerity  of  his  soul,  exclaimed, 
"Paddy,  myself's  glad  to  see  you,  for  in  truth  I  wish  you 
well."  "By  my  shoul,  I  knows  it  weiy  said  the  other,  "but 
you  have  but  the  half  of  it ;"  that  is,  the  pleasure  is  divided. 
If  you  ask  a  common  fellow  in  the  streets  of  Dublin  which  is 
the  way  to  a  place,  he  will  take  off  his  hat,  and  if  he  does  not 
know  it,  he  will  take  care  not  to  tell  you  so,  (for  nothing  is 
more  painful  to  an  Irishman  than  to  be  thought  ignorant;)  he 
will  either  direct  you  by  an  appeal  to  his  imagination,  v/hicii 
is  ever  ready,  or  he  will  say,  "I  shall  find  it  out  for  your  honor 
immediately;"  and  away  he  flies  into' some  shop  for  informa- 
tion, which  he  is  happy  to  be  the  bearer' of,  without  any  hope 
of  reward. 

The  instruction  of  the  comvmn  people  is  in  the  lowest  state  of 
degradation.  In  the  summer,  a  wretched  uncharactered  itin- 
erant derives  a  scanty  and  precarious  existence  by  wander- 
ing from  parish  to  parish,  and  opening  a  school  in  some  ditch 
covered  with  heath  and  furze,  to  which  the  inhabitants  send 
their  children  to  be  instructed  by  the  miserable  breadless  be- 
ing, who  is  nearly  as  ignorant  as  themselves ;  and  in  the 
M'inter,  the^e  pedagogue'pedlers  go  from  door  to  door  offbr- 
ing  their  sei-viees,  and  pick  up  just  sufficient  to  prevent  them- 
selves from  perishing  by  fiimine.  What  projjortion  of  morals 
and  learning  can  flow  from  such  a  source  into  the  mind  of  the 
ragged  young  pupil,  can  easily  be  imagined,  but  cannot  be  re- 
flected on  witliout  serious  concern.  A  gentleman  of  undoubt- 
ed veracity,  stated,  not  long  since,  before  the  Dublin  associa- 
tion for  distributing  Bibles  and  Testaments  amongst  the  poor, 
that  whole  parishes  were  without  a  Bible. 

The  feasamtry  are  imcommonly  attached  to  their  ancient 

melodies,  same  of  which  are  exquisitely  beautifiil.     In  some 

parts  of  Ireland,  the  harp  is  yet  in  use;  but  the  Irish  bagpipe 

is  the  favorite  instrument.     The  stock  of  national  music  has 

21 


242  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

IRELAND. 

notbeen  much  increased  of  late  years.  The  Irish  of  all  classes 
are  fond  of  music.  Dancing,  also,  is  a  favorite  and  national 
amusement.  Scarcely  ever  is  there  an'  assemblacre  of  com- 
mon peojile  without  a  dance.  Even  on  the  Sabbath  day,  after 
the  liours  of  devotion,  the  si^irit  ofirayety  bursts  forth  among 
the  peasantry,  the  bairpipe  is  heai'd,  and  every  foot  is  in  mo- 
tion. In  the  neicfhboriiood  of  some  alehouse,  the  peasantry 
of  the  vicinity  colNn-t,  purchase  a  huge  cake,  which  is  jKiid  for 
by  subscription,  and  which  iieing  placed  upon  a  distaff,  they 
contend  for  it  as  a  prize,  either  in  a  dance  or  some  athletic 
exercise.  The  piper,  who  is  considered  an  essential  jierson- 
age  on  such  occasions,  is  seated  on  the  ground,  with  a  hole 
dug  l)efore  him  to  receive  such  presents  as  maybe  offered  for 
his  services.  The  "'Irish  fair"  also  is  frequently  an  occasion 
of  tumultuous  joy.  Originally,  these  fairs  were  instituted  for 
the  meeting  of  traders  and  farmers  for  the  transaction  of  bu- 
siness, but  at  ]iresent  they  serve  mostly  as  an  occasion  for 
holyday  recreations. 

"  Numerous  lai'gc  booths  of  boards  are  erected  in  various 
parts  of  the  open  fields,  where  the  multitudes  are  assembled. 
Theatrical  performances,  shows,  and  all  r-orts  of  amusements, 
are  exhibited  at  the  cheapest  rates,  and  coarse  toys,  and  arti- 
cles of  little  value,  are  offered  for  sale  upon  benches.  In  the 
afternoon,  the  prevailinr;  amusement,  amongst  the  rabble,  is  of 
a  pugilistic  kind,  half  a  do^en,  or  more,  jiarticipating  at  once 
in  this  sort  of  diversion,  dealing  out  blows  with  tlicir  big  fists, 
as  if  they  were  '  tritles  light  as  air.'  " 

As  might  be  expected  from  their  ignorance,  the  Irish  are  re- 
viarkdhly  siiprrsHtiinis.  In  the  last  century,  according  to  the 
author  of  the  "  Stranger  in  Ireland,"  even  distinguished  fami- 
lies had  a  banshee;  a  fairy  in  the  shape  of  a  little  friglitfiil  old 
woman,  who  used  to  warble  a  melancholy  ditty  under  the 
windows  of  great  houses,  to  wjirn  the  family  that  some  of  them 
were  about  to  die.  In  several  parts  of  Ireliin  I  are  clf-.-^timcs ; 
these  are  triangular  llints,  with  which  the  peasantry  suppose 
the  fairies,  when  angry  v.ith  them,  destroy  their  cows.  When 
these  animals  die  unexpectedly  of  any  natural  disease,  they 
say  they  are  flf-s'fift.  The  rustics  require  a  gieat  deal  of  en- 
couragement i)tfoje  they  can  be  brought  to  level  an  ant-hill, 
from  the  belief  that  it  is  a  fairy  mount. 

Few  thiiieri^  are  more  characteristic  nfihe  Irish  than  a  strange 
confusion  of  speech,  or  a  sort  of  intermixture  of  words,  Vliich 
has  received  the  name  of  a  hvH.  Hence  a  writer  somi^x^^llen? 
remarks,  that  '"an  Irishman  and  a  bull  form  <iT\vin  thoughl'in 
an  Englishman's  iniiid."  The  Irish,  however,  bear  a  greater 
sliare  of  honor  in  this  respect  than  they  deserve.  The  lo\yer 
cla.s.se8  in  all  other  countries  fall  into  similar  humorous  mis- 
takes. It  may  happen  that  the  lower  Irishmen  make  more, 
on  account  of  the  uncommon  (luickness  of  their  thoughts,  ifhd 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  243 

LITERATURE. 

the  volubility  of  their  speech.  A  common  Irishman  seldom 
gives  himself  time  for  reflection ;  and  before  a  question  is  half 
delivered,  the  whole  of  his  answer  is  discharged,  and  another 
ready  to  follow;  and  moreover,  if  he  knows  nothingof  the  sub- 
ject on  which  he  is  asked,  he  is  sure  to  give  some,  and  gene- 
rally an  instantaneous,  reply.  The  following  circumstance, 
which  is  said  to  have  occurred  in  London,  is  a  tolerable  in- 
stance of  a  low  Irishman  speaking  with  that  sort  of  precipita- 
tion. An  Irish  laborhig  bricklayer  laid  a  wager  with  his  com- 
panion and  fellow  laborer,  that  he  could  not  carry  him  on  his 
hod  (a  frame  with  a  handle,  which  bricklayers  use  for  carry- 
ing mortar  upon  their  shoulders)  up  a  ladder  to  a  high  house, 
and  bring  him  down  again  safely  ;  the  bet  was  taken  and  won. 
As  Pat  who  rode  upon  the  hod  alighted,  he  said,  "  Och !  my 
honey,  you  tripped  once  as  we  were  coming  down,  and  I  was 
in  hopes  I  should  have  won  my  wager."  A  similar  want  of  re- 
flection induced  the  following  whimsical  observation.  During 
a  severe  gale  of  wind,  an  Irishman  who  was  going  to  England 
to  work  in  the  harvest  there,  told  the  captain  of  the  packet, 
who  appeared  to  be  much  fatigued  with  his  attention  to  the 
vessel,  "Now,  do  go  below,  my  honey,  and  take  a  nap;  and, 
if  we  strike,  never  fear,  but  I'll  tell  you  of  it." 

The  established  church  in  Ireland  is  that  of  England,  the 
members  of  which,  including  Presbyterians  and  other  denom- 
inations, called  dissenters,  amount  to  about  1,000,000;  the  re- 
mainder of  her  population,  about  6,000,000,  ai'e  Catholics. 
Religion  among  all  classes  is  greatl}^  depressed.  The  Catho- 
lics especially  are  oppressed,  being  obliged  not  only,  poor  as 
they  are,  to  support  their  own  clergy,  but  also  to  contribute  for 
the  support  of  the  established  church.  In  general,  the  Catho- 
lics willingly  pay  their  own  clergy,  but  they  regard  the  money 
which  goes  to  the  English  clergy  as  cruel  extortion.  This 
exaction  of  tithes  has  been  the  cause  of  much  contention, 
strife,  and  even  bloodshed,  in  Ireland.  At  a  county  meeting 
at  Wexford,  in  the  month  of  July,  1831,  a  gentleman,  among 
other  things,  remarked—"  I  have  taken  the  laborious  trouble 
to  search  accurately  the  files  of  some  Irish  journals,  and  I 
have  found  that  no  less  than  six  and  twenty  thousand  persons 
have  been  butchered,  in  twenties,  and  tens,  during  the  last 
thirty  years,  in  Ireland,  in  the  enforcement  of  this  system." 

Without  having,  any  national  literature,  which  she  may  pro- 
perly call  her  own;  without  any  marked  superiority  in  science, 
or  in  arts,  Ireland  has  contributed,  nevertheless,  her  full  quota 
to  the  general  stock,  which  illustrates  the  annals  of  Great  Bri- 
tain, by"  the  number  and  talents  of  those  distinguished  men  to 
whom  she  has  given  birth. 

Bishops  Jebb  and  Magee,  and  Dean  Kirwan,  have  acquired 
a  just  renown  by  their  pulpit  eloquence.  Science  is  deeply  in- 
debted to  Young,  Donavon,  and   WestLey.     Literature  may 


244  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

IHELANO. 

justly  be  proud  of  such  men  as  Usher,  Goldsmith,  ShoridaOj 
Swift,  Stone,  and  Moore;  and  of  Burke,  Castlereaa;h,  Grattan, 
Cinran.  Piunket,  Ponsonby,  Cannino;,  and  OH^onncI,  as  orators 
and  statesmen;  and  whatever  o()ini()n  indiviiluals  may  enter- 
tain reirardino;  tlie  direction  in  which  he  exerts  his  talents,  of 
the  Duke  of  VVellinifton,  whose  n)ilitary  <:;lory  is,  however,  so 
transcendent,  as  to  eclipse  the  renown  to  which  he  may  lay 
claim  as  a  statesman  : — all  these  stand  deservedlj'  high  in  pub- 
lic opinion. 

Ireland,  then,  should  be  ranked  amonir  those  nations  which 
b.ave  produced,  and  still  cjive  promise  of  producinj;^,  men  dis- 
tingiiishiMl  in  the  walks  of  literatin^t;  and  science,  ami  above  all, 
in  politics.  It  is,  therefore,  only  just  to  conclude,  that  the  vices 
and  imperfections  of  her  sons  arise  from  an  aljsence  of,  or  an 
imperlcct,  education,  rather  than  from  any  inherent  or  natural 
vice. 

Neither  the  iisteful  nor  ornamental  arta  are  in  a  floiu'ishing 
condition  in  Ireland,  chiefly  from  the  want  of  that  encourage- 
ment, which  would  bo  pjiven  to  them  by  a  residence  of  the  rich 
projirictors  in  the  coun.try.  The  linen  manufacture  has  long 
been  the  staple  manufacture  of  Ireland.  Flax-seed  was  ori- 
ginally brou<^ht  from  Holland  by  the  Earl  of  Strafford,  in  the 
reign  of  Charles  I.  The  spinners  and  manufacturers  were 
introduced  from  France  an<l  the-  ^jetherlands.  In  1810, 
about-  one  hundred  thousand  acrQs  were  cultivated  with  flax, 
which  >ielded  of  the  raw  material  to  the  value  of  one  million 
and  a  half  pounds  sterhng.  Till  the  beginning  of  tiie  present 
century,  flax  was  entirely  s[iun  by  hand;  it  is  still  so  spun, 
to  some  extent,  at  the  present  time.  Coarse  thread  only  can 
be  spun  b)'  machinery.  The  finest  thread  linens  are  still  spun 
by  the  Irish  women.  Machinery  will  produce  thread  of  the 
fineness  of  three  hanks  to  the  pnimd,  wliereas  women,  when 
the  flax  is  good,  will  spin  it  from  twelve  to  twenty  hanks. 

In  his  late  towr  to  Europe,  Ur.  Griscom  visited  the  linen  hall 
at  Belfast.  "Nothing,"  says  he,  "can  exceed  the  neatness 
nnd  beauty  with  which  the  packages  of  linen  are  folded,  and 
arran2;cd  in  the  various  rooms  of  this  extensive  building. 
Great  attention  is  paid  to  the  external  decoration  of  the  pieces, 
such  as  tying  them  up  in  handsome  strings  f»r  ribands,  stamp- 
ing them  with  beautiful  devices,  and  attaching  the  maker  or 
render's  name,  engraved,  and  surrounded  with  an  elegant  vig- 
nette. These  ornamimtal  doings,  I  was  t(Ud,  are  very  expen- 
sive, but  quite  indispensable  in  the  goods  destined  for  the 
American  market.  Unless  they  look  well,  and  have  a  beautiful 
gloss,  they  meet  with  a  dull  sale*;  the  finality  of  the  cloth  having 
much  less  to  do  witli  the  demand,  than  th*;  superficial  appear- 
ance. In  Knjrland,  the  merchants  and  consumers  have  learned 
better;  and  no  such  expensive  putting  up  is  practised  with  the 
goods  sent  to  the  neiphhorinj,'  markets.  It  is  a  fact  which  ought 
to  be  well  understood  by  the  consumers  of  linen,  that  the  gloss 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  245 

LINEN. 

or  glazing  is  produced  by  a  violent  mechanical  friction  and 
stamping  upon  the  surface  of  the  stuff,  while  it  is  firmly  stretch- 
ed over  a  hard  unyielding  substance.  This  is  done  by  wooden 
beams,  armed  with  smooth  flint  stones,  and  for  no  other  pur- 
pose than  to  give  it  a  beautiful  appearance.  It  is  nevertheless 
injurious  to  the  cloth,  abrading  the  surface,  and  weakening  its 
texture.  It  will  not  be  long,  I  hope,  before  the  corrected  taste 
of  American  purcnasers  will  enable  the  Irish  manufacturers 
to  dispense  with  this  useless  and  injurious  process,  for  how 
perfect  soever  the  glazing  of  linen  may  be,  it  all  disappears  in 
the  first  washing  and  shrinking,  before  the  goods  are  made  up 
into  garments."* 

Six  miles  fi-om  Belfast,  at  Lisburn,  is  an  establishment,  the 
most  celebrated  in  Ireland,  for  weaving  Damask  Tablecloths. 
"One  hundred  and  eighty  persons  are  employed  in  the  various 
processes  of  weaving.  Each  loom  is  managed  by  a  man  and 
boy.  The  former  operates  the  loom  to  beat  up  the  cloth,  and 
the  latter  stands  by  the  side  of  it  to  draw  the  strings,  to  raise  the 
threads  that  must  be  skipped  by  the  shuttle,  to  form  the  em- 
bossed figures.  In  this,  as  in  the  shawl  weaving  in  Paisley,  the 
art  of  the  process  consists  in  arranging  the  web  previously  to 
commencing  the  operation  of  weaving.  The  designs  to  be 
wrought  are  sketched  in  red  and  white  colors  upon  a  paper,  and 
the  artist,  by  referring  to  it,  is  enabled  to  calculate  where  to 
leave  the  delicate  embossed  figures  of  the  same  white  color 
with  the  groundwork  of  the  cloth.  Some  of  the  tablecloths 
are  woven  3^  yards  in  width,  and  of  any  desirable  length. 
The  loom  upon  which  the  cloths  for  the  royal  tables  were 
woven,  was  pointed  out.  The  coats  of  arms  of  several  no- 
blemen are  introduced  into  the  centre  of  a  few  of  the  fabrics 
in  the  looms,  for  v^'hich  an  extra  price  is  paid.  Upon  the  nap- 
kins prepared  for  military  officers,  the  names  of  the  battles  by 
which  the  regiments  have  been  distinguished,  are  embossed  in 
raised  work  in  large  characters,  and  the  half-spread  wings  of 
the  American  eagle  appeared  in  some  instances  to  be  forming 
by  the  swift  shuttle  of  the  weaver.   • 

""Most  of  the  linen  is  bleached  upon  the  grass,  and  large 
fields  of  several  acres  are  clothed  with  white  linens,  appearing 
at  a  distance  to  be  covered  with  snow-drifts.  In  winter,  chem- 
ical bleaching  is  sometimes  practised. 

"The  })Oor  families  scattered  over  the  adjacent  country, 
spin  the  thread,  and  weave  it  into  cloth  at  their  hovels.  It  is 
purchased  of  them  in  the  brown  state  by  the  capitalists,  who 
carry  on  the  bleacheries  and  the  processes  for  finishing  the 
cloth  for  market. 

"  The  glazing  is  performed  in  some  instances  by  rubbing 
polished  flint  stones  upon  the  surface  of  the  linen.  The  vio- 
lent friction  of  the  stamping  and  polishing  process  upon  the 
cloth  must  be  very  injurious  to  the  texture,  although  only  a 

*  Griscom's  Europe. 
21* 


246  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

FRANCE. 

false  and  useless  gloss  is  jiroduced  by  the  operation.  Much 
pains  and  expense  are  bestowed  upon  tlie  external  appearance 
of  the  goods,  in  pressintr,  folding,  and  preparing  tlieni  with 
covers  of  blue  and  gilded  papers  for  the  English  uuirket,  and 
for  exportation."* 

" In  Ireland"  obscrv^cs  the  author  whom  we  have  just  quo- 
ted, "  the  grim  tyrant  is  noticed  with  eccentric  honors.  Upon 
the  death  of  an  Irish  man  or  woman,  the  straw  upon  which 
the  deceased  reposed  is  burned  before  the  cabin  door,  and  as 
tlie  flames  arise,  the  family  set  up  the  deatli  howl.  At  night, 
the  body,  with  the  face  exposed,  and  the  rest  covered  with  a 
white  sheet,  placed  upon  some  boards,  or  an  unhinged  door, 
supported  by  stools,  is  iraked,  when  all  the  relatives,  friends, 
antl  ncighljors  of  the  deceased,  assemble  together  ;  candles 
and  candlesticks,  borrowed  from  the  neighborhood,  are  stuck 
round  the  deceased ;  according  to  the  circumstances  of  the 
family,  the  company  is  regaled  with  whiskey,  ale,  cakes,  pipes, 
and  tf)bacco.  A  sprightly  tourist,  whose  name  does  not  ap- 
pear in  his  l>ook,  observers,  that 'walking  out  one  morning, 
rather  early,  I  heard  dreadful  groans  and  shrieks  in  a  house. 
Attracted!  by  curiosity,  I  entered,  and  saw  in  a  room  about 
fifty  women  weej)ingover  a  poor  old  num.  who  died  a  couple 
of  days  before.  Four  of  them,  in  jiarticular,  madi'  more  noise 
than  the  rest,  toie  their  hair,  and  often  eml)raced  the  deceased. 
1  remarked  that  in  about  a  quarter  of  an  hour  they  were  tired, 
went  into  another  room,  and  were  replaced  by  four  others, 
who  continued  their  shrieks  until  th(>  others  were  recovered; 
these,  after  swallowing  a  large  glass  of  whiskey,  to  enable 
them  to  make  more  noise,  resumed  their  places,  and  the  others 
went  to  refresh  themselves.'  " 


4.  FRANCE. 

We  must  leave  the  British  Isles,  with  not  a  little  that  is  in- 
terestingto  the  traveller,  remaining  unvisited  and  unexplored. 
Our  routr-  nf)W  lies  across  the  F.nglish  Channel  from  Dover  to 
Calais,  a  distance  of  twenty-one  miles,  occupying  with  a  j>ros- 
perous  passage  by  steamboat  only  a  few  hours,  and  by  ima- 
gination, the  easier  mod(»  which  we  have  adopted,  only  a  mo- 
ment, and  we  find  om'selves  in  an  efiiuilly  interesting  coun- 
try—  France. 

This  is  a  much  larger  country  tiian  England,  and  differs 
from  it  both  in  respect  to  climate  and  population  in  more  par- 
ticulars than  would  be  anticipated  from  the  narrow  sheet  of 
water  that  sej)arates  the  two  countries. 

•  Prac  tical  Tourist. 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  247 


EDUCATION. 


The  French  are  a  well- formed  people^  in  general  more  slender 
in  frame  than  the  English,  more  quick  and  lively  in  their  move- 
ments. Their  countenances  are  expressive  of  intelligence  and 
uprightness ;  their  eyes  are  brilliant  and  restless,  and  many 
instances  occur  of  great  beauty  of  features  and  expression. 
In  complexion,  they  are  not  so  light  as  the  English,  nor  so 
dark  as  the  Italians.  There  is  some  difference  as  to  personal 
appearance  in  the  different  portions  of  the  kingdom,  though 
in  general  they  are  a  homogeneous  people  in  that  respect. 

France  was  the  Gallia  of  the  Romans,  and  a  part  of  its  pres- 
ent inhabitants  are  descendants  .of  the  Gauls,  who  anciently 
inhabited  it.  A  part  also  are  descended  from  the  Romans 
themselves.  But  the  larger  portion  of  the  present  race  of  the 
French  people  are  derived  from  the  Franks.  These  were 
supposed  to  be  of  German  origin,  and  to  inhabit  the  country 
between  the  Rhine  and  the  Wesser,  which  now  forms  a  part  of 
Holland  and  Westphalia.  Clovis,  their  king,  at  an  early  pe- 
riod, obtained,  by  degrees,  possession  of  the  country.  From 
tliis  people,  ancient  Gaul  obtained  the  name  of  France.  Within 
the  boundaries  of  France  are  the  Bretons,  the  Walloons,  the 
Basques,  Jews,  Gipsies,  and  Savoyards,  with  their  peculiar 
characteristics. 

The  distinction  in  the  classes  of  the  people,  is  not  so  great  as 
it  was  formerly.  The  French  government  has  abolished  he- 
reditary peerage.  Princes,  dukes,  marquises,  counts,  viscounts, 
barons,  and  chevaliers,  constitute  the  titles  of  nobility.  The 
noble  families  are  numerous,  although  comparatively  few  of 
them  are  ancient.  Some  of  the  most  distinguished  orders  are 
those  of  St.  Michael,  the  Holy  Ghost,  St.  Louis,  and  under  the 
consulate,  the  Legion  d'Honneur.  The  members  of  this  last 
order  were  both  military  and  civil.  It  was  re-organized  at  the 
Restoration. 

The  original  language  of  France,  the  Celtic,  gave  place  to 
the  Latin,"during  the  empire  of  the  Romans  in  that  country,  at 
least  among  the  higher  classes  of  men.  When  the  Franks 
settled  in  the  country  under  Clovis,  they  introduced  the  Gothic, 
and  the  French  became  a  mixture  of  Celtic,  Latin,  and  Gothic, 
out  it  was  called  Romanc-e.  from  the  predominance  of  Roman 
words  ;  and  the  first  fictitious  narratives  being  written  in  that 
language,  the  name  Romance  has  been  transferred  from  the 
language  to  that  kind  of  writings.  The  present  French  is  es- 
teemed for  its  adaptedness  to  the  common  business  of  life,  and 
for  light  and  familiar  subjects,  but  it  wants  force,  dignity,  and 
sublimity.  It  is,  however,  more  widely  diffused  in  foreign 
countries  than  any  living  language.* 

The  French  are  not  a  generally  educated  people,  like  those 
♦  Webster's  Elements  of  Useful  Knowledge. 


24S  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 


FRANCE. 


of  the  United  Stales.  No  system  of  general  education  for  all 
classes  has  ever  obtained  in  France,  nor  indeed  in  any  Euro- 
pean nation.  In  certain  respects,  however,  and  among  several 
classes,  education  is  extensively  promoted  in  establishments, 
public  and  private,  of  every  decree.  Colleges  and  schools  of 
an  excellent  kind,  are  estaijlislied  for  instructing  youth  in  every 
branch  of  useful  knowledge.  Twenty-three  univer;iities,  and 
a  still  larger  number  of  literary  societies  adorned  France  pre- 
viously to  the  Revolution.  Since  that  era,  a  National  Institute 
has  been  establishrd  with  inofes.sorships  in  all  branches  of 
science  and  arts.  This  institution,  which  was  brought  into 
existence,  or  received  a  common  name,  by  uniting  the  several 
academies  of  Paris  into  one,  is  divided  into  four  academies — 
viz:  the  Acadnnie  Fraiicaisc,  composed  of  forty  members; 
that  of  liiscriplions  and  JJcllen  Lettifjs,  also  of  forty  ;  the  lioyal 
Academy  of  iicienccs,  with  sixty-three ;  and  that  of  the  Fine 
ArtSj  with  forty.  Najioleon's  Imperial  i'viccrsily  has  been  re- 
tained with  some  modihcations.  It  includes  twenty-six  acad- 
emies. 

"  There  is  no  circumstance  in  the  appearance  of  the  Nation- 
al Institute  more  striking  and  interesting,"  says  Lady  Morgan, 
"than  the  vast  proportion  of  young  men,  who  have  forceci 
themselves,  by  superior  talent,  within  its  walls.  The  law  of 
conscription,  and  still  more  the  personal  inihience  which  Na- 
poleon exerted  over  the  higher  ranks,  by  inducing  or  forcing 
their  suns  at  an  early  age  into  tlie  army,  much  interrupted  the 
course  of  education,  and  checked  tiu-  |)rogress  ol"  elegant  ac- 
quirement. Rut  in  all  ages,  and  under  all  reigns,  the  army 
was  the  hereditary  piofession  of  the  young  French  nobility  ; 
and  the  elder  sons  were  as  invariably  guidoita  and  colonels, 
as  the  cadtts  were  prelates  and  abbes.  1  can,  however,  on  my 
own  experience,  attest  the  ardor  with  which  the  young  men 
of  the  highest  rank,  civil  and  military,  return  to  their  studies, 
from  which  they  have  been  forcibly  estranged.  1  have  known 
the  young  heirs  to  the  most  distinguished  names  in  modern 
celebrity,  to  the  most  illustrious  titk-s  in  historic  lecoid,  not 
less  regular  and  assiduous  attendants  on  the  daily  lectures  of 
Cuvier,  St.  Fond,  Fourcroy,  liaiiy,  than  those  wfio  have  to  sub- 
sist by  the  exercise  of  their  acquired  talents." 

Education  is  now  receiving  the  attentif>n  of  the  government, 
and  schools  upon  the  system  of  mutual  instruction,  have  been 
extensively  established.  In  the  primary  schools,  reading,  wri- 
ting, and  arithniftic,  are  taught;  and  those  which  consist  of 
lyceums  and  high  schools,  are  preparatory  to  the  colleges. 
Still,  with  all  the  attempts  that  have  been  made  to  increase  the 
amount  of  education,  theie  are  nearly  four  millions  of  children 
in  Fi  ance  destitute  of  the  means  of  instiiution.  It  is  only  in 
Paris  that  there  is  any  thing  like  a  universal  dillusion  of 
knowledge. 

During  the  dark  ages,   France  produced  some  respectable 


UNIVErxSAL  TRAVELLER.  249 

FINE   ARTS, 


^mtcrs :  and  learning  revived  there  before  it  did  in  England. 
Among  the  French  authors  of  those  times,  we  find  the  names 
of  Abelard  and  Aquinas,  whose  industry  and  talents  were  ex- 
aausted  in  laborious  searches  after  unmeaning  subtleties. 
Froissart,  an  ingenious  chronicler,  Amyot  and  Marot  who  com- 
posed, the  first  in  prose,  the  other  in  poetry,  with  a  sweetness 
and  simplicity  unknown  before,  and  Rabelais,  renowned  for  his 
brilliancy,  indecency,  and  wit.  Following  these,  was  a  succes- 
sion of  writers  of  some  note,  particularly  Descartes,  in  philoso- 
phy. It  is  supposed  however,  by  many,  that  learning  and  fine 
writing  reached  its  greatest  height  in  the  reign  of  Louis  XIV. 
Among  the  accomplished  authors  of  that  period,  are  Corneille, 
Pascal,  Molicre,  Racine,  La  Fontaine,  Bourdaloue,  Massillon, 
Bossuet,  Borleau,  Rollin,  and  Fenelon.  Since  the  age  of 
Louis,  many  celebrated  authors  have  arisen,  among  whom  are 
Voltaire,  Rousseau,  D'Alembert,  Diderort,  Raynal,"Condorcet, 
and  Chateaubriand. 

The  French  have  attained  to  an  enviable  distinction  in  sci- 
ence. Their  scientific  works  are  numerous,  especially  in  zo- 
ology, botany,  chemistry,  and  mathematics.  The  following, 
among  others,  are  distinguished  names  in  these  sciences,  viz. 
BuflTon,  Cuvier,  Lalande.  La  Place,  Lacepede,  Jussieu,  Lavoi- 
sier, Fourcroy,  GeolTrey.  Many  able  works  on  morals  and 
law  are  found  in  the  French  tongue,  particularly  those  of  Fen- 
elon and  Montesquieu. 

The  orvaviputal  arts  flourish  in  France;  and  Paris,  particu-. 
larly,  is  filled  with  painting  and  sculpture.  The  most  splendid 
collections  of  specimens  in  both  of  these  arts,  is  the  king's 
museum  in  the  Louvre.  It  occupies  four  contiguous -apart- 
ments approached  by  a  grand  staircase,  which  is  ornamented 
with  twenty-two  marble  columns  of  the  Doric  order,  and  the 
whole  richly  embellished  with  sculpture.  The  first  saloon  con- 
tains a  collection  of  the  earliest  productions  of  the  French  and 
Italian  schools,  which  are  no  otherwise  interesting,  than  as 
furnishing  illustrations  of  the  progress  of  the  art.  The 
next  saloon  is  almost  exclusively  devoted  to  the  battle  pieces 
of  La  Brun.  These  rooms  are  of  moderate  dimensions,  form- 
ing the  mere  vestibule  to  the  temple.  On  passing  the  latter, 
the  long  vista  of  the  great  gallery  opens  on  the  eye  of  the 
spectator,  for  the  whole  extent  of  fourteen  hundred  feet,  and 
cannot  fail  to  strike  him  with  surprise  and  admiration.  By 
the  natural  effect  of  perspective,  the  farther  extremity  is 
contracted  to  narrow  limits;  and  throngs  of  ladies  and  gentle- 
men in  full  dresses  moving  along  the  varnished  floor,  and  re- 
duced to  a  diminutive  size"  in  the  distance,  together  with  col- 
umns at  suitable  intervals,  splendid  mirrors,  busts,  altars, 
antique  vases,  and  other  embellishments  of  the  hall,  present  a 
scene  more  like  enchantment  than  reality.  The  gallery  is 
lighted  by  double  rows  of  windows,  which  sometimes  throw  a 
disadvantageous  glare  across  each  other,  and  the  walls  from 
top  to  bottom  are  "lined  with  pictures,  which  challenge  atteri- 


250  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

FRANCE. 

tion  an  I  distract  the  mind  of  the  beholder.  The  hall  is  par- 
tially a  id  rather  nominally  divided  by  arches  erected  along 
the  sid  ^s  into  nine  compartments,  three  of  which  are  appro- 
jiiiated  to  the  French,  three  to  the  Flemish,  German,  and, 
Dutch,  and  the  remaining  tlirc<>  to  the  Italian  schools.  Among 
the  great  masters  whose  pencils  have  contributed  to  enrich 
the  gal  ery,  are,  Correjrio,  Guido,  Raphael,  Salvator  Rosa,  Ti- 
tian. Paul  Veronese,  and  Rubens.  The  marked  dilierence 
in  the  ,eadin;j  characteristics,  and  particularly  in  the  coloring 
of  the  several  schools,  will  strike  the  most  superficial  observer. 
In  anatomical  exactness,  and  in  boldness  of  perspective,  the 
F'rench,  perhaps,  surpass  any  other  artists;  but  in  some  in- 
stances their  gaudy  and  i:;;larin!;  colors  appear  to  be  laid  on 
with  a  trowel,  and  are  wanting  in  tliat  harmony,  softness,  and 
delicacy  which  characterize  the  schools  of  Italy.  They  also 
generally  fail  in  expression,  particularly  in  the  milder  expres- 
sions c  f  the  human  face,  "overstepping  the  modesty  of  na- 
ture," and  throwing  something  showy  or  fantastic  upon  the 
canvajs,  as  if  to  challenge  admiration.  Among  the  most  cele- 
brated pictmes  in  the  collection,  are  reckoned  the  Holy  Trin- 
ity, by  Raphael — the  Entombment  of  the  Saviour,  by  Titian — 
Jupitei  and  Antiope,  by  Corregio — the  Witch  of  Endor,  raising 
the  Ghost  of  Samuel,  by  Salvator  Rosa — the  marriage  of 
Cana,  by  Paul  of  Veronese — iEneas  bearing  on  the  shoul- 
ders his  father  Anchises,  and  accompanied  by  the  boy  As- 
canius,  by  Domenichino— a  portrait  of  Charles  I.  by  Vantlycke— 
Diogenes  looking  for  an  honest  man,  by  Rubens — St.  Ambrose, 
by  Philip  de  Champagne — The  Ports  of  France,  at  sunrise, 
sunset,  and  in  a  tempest,  by  Vernet — the  Judgment  of  Solomon, 
the  Institution  of  the  Eucharist,  and  the  Deluge,  by  Poussin — 
and  several  landscapes,  by  Chuuh^  Lhtrraine.* 

The  halls  ajipropriated  to  sculpture  are  twenty  in  number, 
designated  by  classical  names — gods,  goddesses,  and  heroes 
— from  Hercules  down  to  the  Duke  d'Angouleme.  Although 
tht-y  have  l)een  robbed  of  their  most  interesting  and  valuable 
antiques,  they  are  still  quite  numerous.  The  catalogues  of  the 
Royal  museum  comprise  three  volumes,  containing  merely  an 
exposition  of  the  curiosities  to  be  seen.  In  this  part  of  it  there 
are  about  tiflecn  hundred  article^,  embracing  specimens  of 
every  sculptor  from  Phidias,  and  Praxiteles,  to  the  scarcely 
less  celebrated  Canova.  Several  exquisite  relics  of  the  two 
former,  are  among  the  antiques;  and  two  beautiful  groups  of 
white  marbU;  from  the  chisel  of  the  latter,  adorn  the  modern 
hall,  bearing  the  name  of  the  Duke  d'Angouleme.  Both  of 
them  represent  Cupid  and  Psyche.  The  proportions,  linish, 
and  expression  of  one  of  them  are  inimitably  line.  In  the 
other  the  god  of  love  is  in  tlip  attitude  of  rescuing  Psyche 
while  sleeping,  and  ready  to  fall  from  the  brink  of  a  i)reci})ice. 
The  design  is  not  more  beautiful  than  the  execution.     Of  tho 

*  Letters  from  Europe,  by  N.  IL  Carter 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLfiR.  SSl 

PUBLIC  BUILDINGS. 

antiques  which  have  acquired  the  most  celebrity,  are  the 
groups  of  a  Gladiator  combating  with  an  enemy  on  horse- 
back, ascribed  to  Agasias  of  Ephesus — a  statue  of  Pallas — 
Silenus  and  the  infant  Bacchus,  said  to  be  found  in  the  garden 
of  Sallust — arid  a  colossal  figure  of  Melpomene,  Nosaies,  and 
various  specimens  of  ancient  marbles  are  extreme'_^  rich  and 
interesting.  Additions  are  daily  making  to  this  extensive 
collection,  to  supply  the  places  of  those  which  have  b?en  re- 
moved.* 

Concerning  the  French  sculptors  of  the  present  times  :t  is 
said  that  they  "have  more  science  than  feeling,  or  inventio.i. 
Their  works  display  the  correct  proportion  and  symmetry  of  the  . 
Grecian  statues,  but  are  totally  wanting  in  the  divine  expres- 
sion and  sentiment  which  animated  those  works." 

There  are  grand  specimens  of  archilectural  skill  and  taste  in 
France.  The  French  kings  before  the  revolution  indulged 
their  passion  for  display  very  much  in  rearing  splendid  public 
edifices,  and  Napoleon  afterwards  added  greatly  to  these  monu- 
ments of  the  arts.  The  streets  of  Paris  in  particular  are  well 
paved  and  lighted,  and  the  buildings  are  in  a  style  of  superior 
elegance  and  beauty.  Many  of  the  public  edifices  present  the 
noblest  forms  of  architecture.  Among  these  is  the  palace  of 
the  Louvre,  the  Exchange,-  the  Palais  Royal,  the  palace  of 
Luxembourg,  Notre  Dame,  and  a  hundred  others. 

"  The  palace  of  the  Louvre"  says  Mr.  Carter,  "surrounds  a 
square  four  hundred  feet  in  diameter.  It  is  two  stories  high, 
and  built  of  light-colored  stone,  which  preserves  its  complex- 
ion notwithstanding  its  great  age.  Three  of  the  sides  present- 
ing exterior  walls  between  five  and  six  hundred  feet  in  extent, 
are  of  the  Corinthian  order  of  architecture,  and  the  remaining 
one  of  the  com.posite.  That  which  faces  the  Seine,  including 
the  gallery  connecting  the  Louvre  and  the  Tuilleries,  presents 
a  n(3ble  front,  stretching  for  about  a  quarter  o-f  a  mile  along  the 
right  bank  of  the  river,  from  which  it  is  separated  by  the  street, 
and  without  anj^  objects  to  intercept  the  view  from  the  oppo- 
site shore,  or  from  the  bridges  for  a  long  distance  above  and 
below.  The  eastern  f;icade  is  reckoned  the  most  splendid 
monument  of  the  reign  of  Louis  XIV.;  Ixit  ov»ing  to  the  ob- 
structions of  the  adjacent  buildings,  no  view  of  it  can  be 
obtained,  equal  to  the  one  just  mentioned.  It  is  celebrated  for 
the  magnificence  of  its  arcades  and  the  richness  of  its  orna- 
ments, among  which  is  the  bust  of  the  monarch  under  whose 
auspices  it  was  ei'ected,  and  de-rlicated  to  himself  It  is  the 
most  ancient  of  the  numerous  palaces  at  Paris,  and  once  had 
a:  tower  commensurate  in  its  proportions  with  the  rest  of  the 
Tedifice,  in  which  the  feudal  chiefs  of  France  were  compelled  to 
assemble  at  stated  periods  and  do  homage  to  the  king.  Those 
who  v/ere  refractory  were  confined  to  a  gloomy  dungeon  be- 

*  Letters  from  Europe. 


252  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELL'ER. 

FRANCE. 

neath,  the  horrors  of  which  gave  rise  to  frio;htful  tales,  and 
eventually  caused  the  tower  to  be  demolished." 

Of  thf  E.rchange^oY  Palais  de  la  Jiujirse,  tlie  same  traveller 
remarks,  "  it  is  one  of  the  most  mairnificent  structures  I  have 
ever  seen,  and  is  perhaps  unequalled  by  any  tliini^of  the  kind 
in  Europe.  Its  location  however  is  very  bad,  being  in  the  cen- 
tre of  the  old  part  of  the  cit)',  surrounded  by  a  swamp  of  build- 
ings; and  although  particular  pains  have  bt^en  taken  to  elevate 
it  from  the  low,  circumscribed  area  which  it  occupies,  no  dis- 
tant glimpse  of  it  can  be  obtained.  Were  it  situated  upon 
some  of  the  open  squares  upon  the  banks  of  the  Seine,  the 
f:;randeur  and  classical  simplicity  of  the  editice  could  not  fail 
to  strike  the  mind  with  admiration.  It  is  surrounded  with  sixty- 
four  columns  of  the  Corinthian  order,  rising  to  the  second  story, 
and  forming  a  most  splendid  colonnade.  In  front  is  a  j)orch, 
with  fourteen  additional  pillars,  the  ascent  to  which  is  by  a  lofty 
flight  of  sixteen  stej)s.  The  principal  hall  is  116  feet  long, 
and  75  wide,  being  suflicienlly  spacious  to  accommodate  two 
thousand  persons.  The  inside  is  as  rich  and  beautiful  as  the 
exterior.  Notwithstanding  the  boasted  architecture  of  Italy,  it 
is,  taken  as  a  whole,  tlic  most  chaste  and  perfect  t)uilding  I  have 
ever  examined.  The  material  is  substantial,  the  designs  clas- 
sical, and  the  workmanship  tinished.  A  fligiit  of  marble  steps, 
worthy  of  the  taste  of  Bramante,  leads  to  the  second  story. 
Splendid  corridors  open  from  the  galleries  into  the  principal 
room." 

It  is  diflferent  in  France  from  what  it  is  in  England  in  regard 
to  commodious  and  elegant  country-houses,  there  being  com- 
l)aratively  few  of  these  in  Fiance.  The  men  of  wealth  live 
mostly  in  the  towns.  The  ancient  chateaux  occasionally  ap- 
])ear,  but  they  are  uninviting  structures.  There  are,  however, 
many  neat  and  comfortable  cottages. 

IVic  French  are  celnbrated  for  their  attention  to  matters  of 
dress  and  taste.  From  the  highest  to  tiie  lowest  Individual, 
dress  is  considered  an  important  concern  in  France.  Every 
station  in  life  has  its  [leculiar  costume.  Paris  sets  the  fashions 
of  all  Europe  ;  and  an  innuense  trade  in  articles  of  dross  and 
new  i)attt'rns  is  carri<'d  on  by  tailois,  dress-makers,  and  nuli- 
ners.  Every  week  has  its  new  female  fashions,  and  cxiyry 
month  its  new  cut  for  the  mak;  attire  ;  so  that  it  would  be  im- 
jiossihle  to  describe  any  particular  dress  as  u  .standard.  lUit 
notwithstanding  this  litkiciie.'-s  of  fashion  in  t!ie  metropolis, 
and  other  large  cities  of  the  kingdom,  the  mass  of  the  ))rovin- 
cials,  especially  the  peasants,  remain  faithful  to  the  ancient 
costume  of  an  enormously  large  hat,  loose  breeclies,  and 
.woodt-n  shoes,  for  the  men;  and  the  jerkin  and  short  petticoat, 
with  a  high  cap,  for  the  women. 

Cookery  in  France  has  reached  a  perfection  which  is  unri- 
valled elsewhere.    It  is  surprising  to  see  the  variety  and  deli- 


A  Laplander.         P.  356. 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVEL]LER.  253 

A  PARISIAN  DINNER. 

cacy  of  their  dishes.  Art  and  science  are  both  concerned  in 
the  preparation  of  articles  for  the  table.  The  quantity  of 
vegetables,  fruits,  and  eggs,  to  be  seen  on  a  market-day,  sur- 
prises an  Englishman  or  an  American ;  but  his  wonder  ceases, 
when  he  has  learned  that  these  light  articles,  with  bread,  di- 
versified as  they  may  be,  constitute  the  greatest  part  of  a 
Frenchman's  diet.  He  is  equally  surprised  at  never  seeing  a 
joint  of  meat  brought  to  the  table,  and  seems  to  make  little 
account  of  the  numerous  dishes  of  chops,  fish,  chickens,  veg- 
etables, fruit,  which  rapidly  succeed  each  other,  for  no  more 
than  one  dish  is  laid  on  the  table  at  a  time.  Neither  is  he 
much  pleased  with  the  small  blunt  knife  that  is  put  before 
him  ;  forgetful  that  there  is  neither  leg  of  mutton,  nor  round  of 
beef,  to  be  carved ;  and  as  for  the  poultry,  it  is  so  young,  and 
so  thoroughly  cooked,  that  it  maybe  separated  with  the  great- 
est facility. 

The  temperate  mode  of  life  pursued  by  the  French,  doubtless 
contributes  to  their  general  healthfulness.  This  fact  is  exem- 
plified, as  well  in  the  happy  constitution  of  the  people,  as  in 
the  advanced  age  to  which  they  live.  "  He  was  only  fifty-six 
or  sixty,"  is  a  common  formula  of  French  biography.  Men 
of  seventy,  or  eighty,  have  usually  as  much  life  and  playful- 
ness, in  France,  as  their  grandchildren. 

We  give  the  etiquette  of  a  Parisian  dinner  in  the  words  of 
a  tourist.  "  The  hour  of  dining  is  about  6  o'clock.  All  the 
guests  enter  the  drawing-room  wearing  their  hats  and  gloves. 
At  the  door  of  the  apartment,  the  name  of  each  person  is  an- 
nounced by  the  servant,  and  he  receives  no  other  introduction 
to  any  of  the  (^ompany.  In  going  to  the  table,  there  is  no  for- 
mal allotment  of  places — no  sit  thou  here,  and  sit  thou  there — 
but  each  one  must  look  out  for  himself,  and  for  the  lady  of  his 
charge.  The  French,  although  fond  of  good  living,  make  a 
business  instead  of  a  pleasure  of  eating,  and  the  great  object 
is  to  get  through  as  soon  as  possible.  An  hour  and  a  half  is 
the  longest  time  occupied  in  a  fashionable  dinner,  during 
which  the  guest  tastes,  perhaps,  of  thirty  different  kinds  of  food, 
and  as  many  varieties  of  wine.  A  succession  of  dishes  is 
constantly  circulated  by  a  train  of  waiters,  and  each  person, 
even  the  ladies,  help  themselves  to  v.'hat  is  presented  carved 
at  their  side.  Another  train  of  servants  bear  around  all  varie- 
ties of  wine,  naming  them  as  they  pass.  There  is  no  drinking 
of  healths — no  loud  talk  across  the  table — and  none  of  that 
noisy  festivity  observable  at  an  English  or  American  din- 
ner. Each  guest  converses  in  a  low  tone  of  voice  with  the 
persons  who  happen  to  sit  next  to  him.  A  Parisian  would 
think  it  extremely  rude  to  attract  the  attention  of  the  table,  or 
to  disturb  the  almost  whispered  colloquies  of  others.  Ladies 
and  gentlemen  retire  from  the  table  to  the  drawing-room  at 
the  same  time,  where  coffee  is  served  up,  and  in  the  course  of 
the  evening  a  dish  of  tea  sometimes  follows.  No  refreshments 
are  subsequently  sent  round ;  and  I  have  passed  five  or  six 
22 


254  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLEPx. 

FRANCE. 

hours  in  fashionable  French  circles  without  cither  eating  or 
ilrinking."  The  same  writer  remarks  again  concerning  the 
French  manner  of  living:  "Social  pleasures  in  France  pos- 
sess the  peculiar  merit  of  costing  little  or  nothing,  save  tim«. 
Toadies  and  gentlemen  can  never  visit  for  th(^  sake  of  the  lux- 
rnics  of  the  sideboai-d  and  table.  Their  enjoyments  must  be 
purely  mental ;  for  in  the  course  of  the  longest  evening,  no 
kinds  of  refreshments  are  introduced,  not  even  a  dish  of  coffee 
or  a  glass  of  wine.  Tliis  custom  is  not  less  conducive  to  tem- 
jierate  habits,  than  tr  a  diminution  of  the  expenses,  and  of 
course  to  an  exteniion  of  the  sphere  of  fashionable  life." 

The  temper::iice  of  the  French  iieo|)le  has  bcM^n  mentioned. 
France,  it  is  well  known,  is  a  country  abomiding  in  wines. 
Many  of  «liese  are  excellent,  and  the  brandies  which  are  made 
in  France  are  esteemed  the  best  in  Europe.  It  is  seldom, 
however,  that  excessive  drinking  is  indulgtMl  among  the  peo- 
ple. In  the  beginning  of  the  last  century,  France  exported, 
upon  an  average  of  five  years,  from  the  year  1720  to  1725,  an- 
nually, to  the  amount  of  more  than  twenty  millions  of  livres; 
in  1778,  the  exportation  amounted  to  more  than  twenty-four 
millions;  and  in  17SS  to  more  than  thirty-thn>e  millions.  The 
re\olution  neaily  iiiuiihilated  the  foreign  trade  in  French 
wines.  Cider  is  made  in  most  of  those  provinces  the  climate 
of  which  is  not  favorable  to  the  grape. 

77(e  Fi):vch  ns;  a  iicitiun  otp  ^Tratly  frii'f^n  io  aninjifmrvt,  and 
every  variety  of  games  and  pastimes  is  found  in  France.  The 
natural  vivacity  of  the  people,  and  their  love  of  amusement, 
.seem  even  to  be  regarded  as  an  eqiiivalent  for  worldly  com- 
forts ;  and  it  has  been  supjiosed  that  the  shafts  of  adverse 
fortune  fall  innocuous  at  tin-  fi>et  of  a  nation.  \\  tiose  buoyancy 
of  sjiirits  enables  tliein  to  iloat  upon  a  sea  of  trouble,  and  to 
rise  with  unimpaired  vigor,  when  its  billows  subside.  That 
the  French  possess  tht.'-e  dispositions  in  a  very  remarkable 
degree,  no  one  can  doubt,  who  has  seen  and  known  them. 
Their  love  of  amusemei.t.  and  willingness  to  be  anmsed,  are 
highly  characteristic  of  the  vlioie  nation.  There  is  scarcely 
a  town  of  any  note  or  even  a  ))0|)ulous  village,  from  Dieppe  to 
Marseilles,  that  has  not  its  ^<illf  d  ('oviidie^  its  Caffes,  and 
promenades,  wIktc  variety  spreads  its  never-ending  charms 
liir  the  young  and  the  old.  The  Sabbath  is  generally  a  holy- 
day  of  enjoyment,  and  besides  these,  their  fetes  occur  very 
fnquently,  and  furnish  extraordinary  occasions  for  festivity 
an<i  mirtli.* 

On  this  sacred  day,  all  the  theatres  and  places  of  amusement 
are  open,  and  more  fre(iuented  than  on  any  other  day  of  the 
week.  In  the  evening  every  village  has  its  rural  ball  ;  for 
dancing  is  \\w  rage  o|  all  classes;  and  from  its  great  preva- 
lenc<',  private  persons  are  met  with  in  society,  whose  talents 
rival  tiiose  of  the  professors. 

•  A  Year  in  Europe,  by  Prof.  Griscom. 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  255 

SOCIETY. 

The  society  of  Paris,  taken  as  a  whole,  and  including  all 
parties  and  factions,  is  infinitely  superior  in  point  of  taste,  ac- 
quirement, and  courtesy,  to  that  of  the  capital  of  any  other 
nation.  Paris,  the  elysium  of  men  of  letters,  has  always  been 
the  resort  of  foreigners  of  literary,  scientific,  and  political  em- 
inence ;  and  princes  and  potentates,  who  have  infiuenced  the 
destinies  of  nations,  are  seen  rainglinij  in  her  circles  with  the 
more  valuable  characters  of  Europe,  whose  works  and  names 
are  destined  to  reach  posterity,  when  titles  of  higher  sound 
shall  be  forgotten,  and  the  Humboldts,  the  Playfairs,  the 
Davys,  the  Castis,  theCanovas,  &c.,  succeeded  in  the  Parisian 
saloons,  to  the  Sterns,  the  Humes,  and  Walpoles,  and  Alga- 
rottis  of  former  times.  The  talent  for  conversation  so  con- 
spicuous in  France  among  all  classes,  originating,  perhaps,  in 
the  rapidity  of  perception  and  facility  of  combination  of  the 
people,  was  early  perfected  by  institutes,  which,  prohibiting 
an  interference  in  matters  of  government,  determined  the 
powers  of  national  intellect  to  subjects  of  social  discussion  and 
tasteful  analysis. 

The  circles  of  fashion  in  Paris  are  characterized  by  a  for- 
mality in  their  arrangement,  to  which  their  sedentary  propen- 
sities in  all  ranks  greatly  contribute.  Nobody  is  locomotive 
from  a  love  of  motion  ;  there  are  no  professed  loungers,  nor 
habitual  walkers.  Everybody  sits  or  reclines,  when,  where, 
and  as  often  as  he  can ;  and  chairs  are  provided,  not  only  for 
those  who  resort  to  the  public  gardens,  but  also  in  the  streets, 
along  the  most  fashionable  Eourevards,  and  before  allthe  ca/es 
and  estaminels,  which  are  farmed  out  at  a  moderate  price. 
The  promenade  of  persons  of  fashion,  is  merely  a  seat  in  the 
air.  They  drive  to  the  gardens  of  ilie  Tuilleries,  alight  from 
their  carriages,  and  immediately  take  their  seat  under  the  shade 
of  the  noblest  groves  of  chestnuts,  or  in  the  perfumed  atmo- 
sphere of  roses  and  orange-trees. 

'  The  great  attraction  and  cement  of  society  in  France,  is 
convers'ation  ;  and,  generally  speaking,  all  forms  and  arrange- 
ments tend  towards  its  promotion.  No  rival  splendors,  no  os- 
tentatious display,  no  indiscriminate  multitude,  make  a  part  of 
the  scheme.  The  talents  which  lend  their  charms  to  social 
communion,  are  estimated  far  beyond  the  rank  that  might  dig- 
nify, or  the  magnificence  that  might  adorn  it.  la  the  saloon, 
"  Virgil  might  take  his  place  with  Augustus,  and  Voltaire  with 
Conde." 

The  youth  of  both  sexes  marry  now,  as  formerly,  much 
earlier  than  in  England  ;  and  without  pausing  to  consider  the 
effects  of  such  premature  unions  upon  moral  and  political  life, 
it  is  very  obvious  that  the  pleasures  of  private  society  gain  ma- 
terially by  the  change.  Marriages- are  still  pretty  generally  ar- 
ranged by  the  prudence  and  foresight  of  the  parents;  but 
daughters  are  no  longer  shut  up  in  convents,  till  the  day  of 
their  nuptials ;  nor  are  they  condemned  to  behold  for  the  first 
time  their  husband  and  their  lover,  almost  at  the  same  mo 


256  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

FRANCE. 


ment.  Educated  chiefly  at  honiw,  they  minirle  with  the  cus- 
tomary quests  of  the  maternal  circle,  from  which  the  compan- 
ion of  their  future  life  is  not  unfrcquently  chosen  ;  and  since 
inclination  is  never  violated,  nor  repu^rnance  resisted,  it  must 
often  happen  among  the  youni;,  the  pleasing,  and  the  suscep- 
tible, that  duty  and  jireference  may  go  together. 

There  is  perhaps  no  country  in  the  world  where  the  social 
position  of  woman  is  so  delectable,  as  in  France.  The  darling 
of  society,  indulged,  iiot  spoiled,  jMesidiiig  over  its  pleasures, 
preserving  its  refinements,  taking  nothing  fiom  its  strength, 
adding  much  to  its  brilliancy,  permitt^'d  the  full  exrrcise  of  all 
her  faculties,  retaining  the  full  endowment  of  all  her  giraces, 
she  pursues  the  round  of  her  hononnl  existence,  limited  only 
in  her  course  by  her  feebleness  and  her  taste,  by  her  v.ant  of 
power  and  absence  of  inclination  to  '-overstep  the  modesty  of 
nature,"  or  to  infringe  upon  privileges  exclusively  the  attri- 
bute of  the  stronger  sex.  "  To  ])aint  the  character  of  woman," 
says  Diderot,  "you  mustuse  the  feather  of  a  butterfly's  wing." 
He  must  have  meant  tlie  character  of  a  French  woman,  who 
unites  to  her  more  solid  qualities  many  of  the  peculiar  attri- 
butes of  that  lively  insect.  Light,  brilliant,  and  volatile,  she 
seems  to  flutter  on  the  surface  of  life,  with  endless  adajitations 
to  its  forms  ;  but  (piick,  shrewd,  and  rapid  in  her  j^crceptions, 
she  api)ears  to  reach  by  intuition,  what  intellect  vainly  toils  to 
obtain  by  inference  and  combination.  More  suscej)tible  than 
sensible,  more  awakened  through  her  imagination  than  exci- 
ted through  hf'r  heart,  lov(>  is  to  her  almost  a  jfu  (I't^vfant. 
The  distrust  she  inspires  in  her  lover,  acts  favorably  for  her 
interests  on  the  natural  inconstancy  of  man,  and  she  secures 
the  durability  of  her  chain,  by  the  carelessness  with  which 
she  imposes  it.  Sharing  largely  in  the  national  deference  for 
ties  of  blood,  she  is  peculiarly  adajitetl  fo  tin-  inlliK-nce  of 
habitual  attachments;  and  in  whatever  othercounlries  friend- 
ship may  raise  her  altars,  it  i»  in  France,  and  by  the  French 
wonicn.  that  she  will  find  llicin  best  served. '^^ 

The  French  women  an-  extremely  clev(>r  in  the  transaction 
of  business ;  and  possessing  perhaps  an  innate  fondness  for 
supreaiacy,  increased  by  education  and  habit,  they  exercises 
controlling  influence  in  all  the  departments  of  life.  They  are 
the  undisputed  misti'esses  of  nearly  all  the  shops  in  Paris,  and 
manage  them  with  great  financial  skill.  It  is  surprising  to 
find  among  them  so  nmch  industry,  patient  drudgery,  and  la- 
borious attention  to  business.  Thi^  nre  up  early  and  late, 
absorbed  in  the  cares  of  their  families,  whose  sujjport  depends 
chiefly  on  their  efforts,  while  their  husbands  are  lounging  at 
the  theatre,  coffee-house,  or  gambling  table.  This  responsi- 
bility is  voluntarily  assumed,  and  arises  from  a  propensity  to 
rule  in  every  thing.f 

•  France,  by  Lady  Morgan. 
t  Lcttere  from  Europe. 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  257 

GOVERNMENT RELIGION. 

The  government  of  France  is  a  constitutional  monarchy,  in 
some  respects  resembling  that  of  Great  Britain,  but  differing 
from  it  in  many  essential  points.  The  succession  of  the  crown 
is  limited  to  males,  which  is  not  the  case  with  the  English 
monarchy.  The  French  monarchy  is  also  more  restricted  in 
its  powers  than  the  latter,  or  indeed  any  other  monarchy  in 
Europe.  The  legislative  i)ower  is  confided  to  the  King,  the 
Chamber  of  Peers,  and  the  Chamber  of  Deputies-;  antl  their 
threefold  sanction  is  necessary  in  order  to  giv-e  vaUdity  to 
every  law  of  the  country  ;  but  in  other  respects  their  functions 
are  distinct  and  determinate. 

The  execuiice  power  is  vested  in  the  King.  Participating 
with  the  other  branc-hes  the  right  of  proposing  laws,  he  alone 
is  authorized  to  promulgate  them.  He  is  the  supreme  chief  of 
the  state,  commands  the  fcH'ces  both  of  land  and  sea,  declares 
war,  makes  treaties  of  peace,  alliance,  and  commerce,  appoints 
to  all  otiices  of  gOTernracnt,  anxi  makes  the  rules  and  ordinan- 
ces  necessary  for  executing  the  laws,  without  having  power 
either  to  suspend  the  laws  tliemselves,  or  disjiense  with  their 
execution.  The  person  of  the  king  is  inviolable  and  sacred; 
but  his  ministers  are  responsible. 

The  rights  of  the  Peers  were  formerly  hereditary  ;  but  in 
1831,  their  hereditary  rights  were  abolished,  and  they  are  now 
nominated  for  life  by  the  king,  who  can  select  them  only  from 
among  those  men  who  have  held  for  a  certain  time  high  pub- 
lic offices,  such  as  those  of  ministers,  generals,  counsellors  of 
state,  prefects,  mayors  of  cities  of  30,000  inhabitants  or  more, 
presidents  of  royal  courts,  members  of  the  institute,  &c.  The 
Chamber  of  Peei's  is  convoked  at  the  same  time  as  the  Cham- 
ber of  Deputies,  aad  it  can  hold  no  session  at  any  time  when 
the  Chamber  of  Deputies  is  not  also  in  session,  except  when 
-it  sits  as  a  court  of  justice. 

The  Chamber  of  Deputies  is  composed  of  persons  elected 
•every  five  years,  by  459  colleges,  distributed  among  the  de- 
partments in  proportion  to  their  population;  and  to  these  col- 
leges, all  Frenchmen  who  perform  certain  conditions  specified 
by  one  of  the  fundamental  laws,  are  summoned.  In  order  to 
be  eligible  as  a  deputy,  a  Frenchman  must  be  30  years  of  age, 
-and  pay  a  direct  tax  of  500  francs;  and  in  order  to  be  an 
elector,  he  must  pay  a  direct  tax  of  200  francs.  To  the  king 
pertains  the  right  of  convoking  the  Chamber  of  Deputies  ;  he 
may  also  prorogue  or  dissolve  it;  but- in  this  last  case,  he 
must  convoke  a  new  one  within  three  months. 

The  prevailing  religion  of  France  \s  that  of  the  Papal  Church. 
The  constitutional  charter  declares  that  every  one  may  profess 
his  religion  with  equal  liberty,  and  shall  obtain  for  his  religious 
worship  the  same  protection.  The  ministers  of  the  Catholic 
Apostolic  and  Roman  religion,  professed  by  a  majority  of  the 
French  people,  and  those  of  other  Christian  worship,  receive 
stipends  from  the  public  treasury.  Infidelity,  or  a  rejection 
22* 


258  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

SPAIN. 

of  Christianity  altogether,  is  become,  however,  very  fashiona- 
ble in  France.  The  moral  aspects  of  the  country  are  not  a 
little  disheart(Miinu:.  The  number  of  the  Roman  Catholic 
clergy  of  all  (iniers  and  degrees,  is  40,712 — viz.  14  archl)isiu)ps, 
60  bishops,  174  vicars-general,  GGO  canons,  767  rectors  of  the 
first  class,  2,534  rectors  of  the  second  class,  26.766  curates, 
6,184  vicars,  71  chai^ters  of  St.  Denis,  16  choristers,  3,700 
seminarists.  The  number  of  Reformed  or  Calviiiist  ministers 
is  360,  and  of  Lutheran  225.  The  clergy  cost  the  country 
33,918,000  francs,  exclusive  of  fees,  gifts,  and  other  allowances 
from  parishes,  communes,  and  departments.* 


5.  SPAIN. 

.    Tlie  people  who  7wic  inhabit  Sptiin,  have  derived  their  origin 
from  a  variety  of  stocks,  its  soil  having  been  occupied  in  suc- 
cession   by  the  Carthaginians,  Romans,    Goths,  Arabs,  and 
French.     The  original  nativi's  were  in  course  of  time  con- 
founded with  their  concpierors,  who  introduced,  in  some  de- 
gree, their  own  laws,  manners,  and  customs;  and  liejice  has 
resulted  that  diversity  of  appearance  and  clia  racier,  which  is 
so  observable  among  its  present  inhabitants.     As  the  jihysical 
constitution  of  a  p<'ople  is  generally  iiitluenced  by  tlie  nature 
of  the  climate  under  which  they  live,  and  as  every  province  of 
Spain  differs  mat<M-ialiy  in  this  respect,  this  circumstance  may 
likewise,  in  a  great  measure,  account  for  this  variety.     "The 
Ca,stilians."   says    Laborde,  "rijipear   delicate,   but   they  are 
strong.     The  Galicians  are  huge,  nervous,  robust,  and  able 
to   endure   fatigue.      The   inhabitants    of   Estramadura   are 
strong,  stout,  and  well-made,  Ijutmore  swarthy  than  any  other 
Spaniards.     The  Andaiusians  aix-  light,  slendCr,  and  perfectly 
well-))roportion(^d.     The  Murcians  are  gloomy,  indolent,  and 
heavy  ;  their  (.  oniplexion    is   pale,  and  almost  lead-colored. 
The  Valencians  are  delicate,  slight,  and  effeminate,  but  intel- 
lig<'nt,  and  active  in  labor.    The  Cataliiins  are  nervous,  strong, 
active,  ii\t<'lligent,  indefatigable,  and  above  the  middle  stature. 
The  Arragonese  are  tall  and  well-made,  and  as  robust  as,  but 
less  active  than,  the  <;atalians.     The  Biscayans  are  strong, 
vigorous,  agile,  and  gay;  their  complexion  is  fine,  their  ex- 
pression quick,  nnimatcd,  du'erful.  aiul  ojien.     In  g<"neral,the 
Spaniards  may  be  d(<scribed  as  rather  below  than  above  the 
middl<?  stature,  well-proportioned,  and  of  a  swarthy  complex- 
ion, with  an  intelligent   countenance,   regular  f<>atnres,  and 
eyes  cjuick  and  animated.     The  females  are  naturally  beauti- 
ful, and  the  greater  part  are  brunettes,  of  a  slender  and  deli- 
cate shape,  with  a  fine  oval  fare,  and  black  or  rich  brown 
hair.     They  have  large  and  open  eyes,  usually  black  or  dark 

♦  American  Almanac  for  163-1. 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  259 

CHARACTER  OF  THE  PEOPLE. 

hazel,  delicate  and  retrular  features,  a  peculiar, suppleness,  and 
a  charming' natural  grace  in  their  motions,  with  a  pleasing  and 
expressive  gesture.  Their  countenances  are  open,  and  full  of 
truth  and  intelligence ;  the  look  is  gentle,  animated,  expres- 
sive ;  their  smile  agreeable ;  they  are  naturally  pale,  but  this 
paleness  seems  to  vanish  under  the  brilliancy  and  expressive 
lustre  of  their  eyes.  They  are  full  of  grace,  which  appears  in 
their  discourse,  in  their  looks,  their  gestures,  motions,  and  ac- 
tions."* 

The  dispoffitions  and  character  of  this  people  are  even  more 
diversified  than  their  outward  appearance  ;  and  there  are  not 
two  provinces  in  which  they  are  exactly  alike.  The  old  Cas- 
tilians,  says  the  author  already  quoted,  are  silent,  gloomy,  and 
indolent ;  they  are  the  most  severely  grave  of  all  the  Spaniards, 
but  tliey  possess  a  steady  prudence,  an  admirable  constancy 
under  adversity,  an  elevation  of  soul,  and  an  unalterable  probi- 
ty and  uprightness;  they  are  faithful,  friendly,  confiding,  un- 
afTectedly  kind  ;  in  short,  a  completely  worthy  people.  Some 
districts  have  peculiar  shades  of  character. 

The  Pariegos  are  active  and  clever  in  trade,  and  are  the 
pedlers  of  a  great  part  of  Spain.  The  inhabitants  of  the  val- 
ley of  Mena  are  robust,  courageous,  and  employed  in  agricul- 
ture ;  they  believe  themselves  descended  from  W\e  ancient 
Cantabri.  The  Maragatoa  are  lean,  dry,  frank,  but  the  most 
taciturn  of  the  old  Castilians  ;  tht^'e  are  some  among  them, 
who  were  never  seen  to  laugh  ;  they  particularly  addict  them- 
selves to  the  business  of  carriers. 

The  character  of  the  natives  of  New  Castile  is  nearly  the 
same,  but  more  open,  and  less  grave  and  taciturn  ;  it  is  also 
somewhat  modified  in  the  districts  bordering  on  other  prov- 
inces. Tlie  qualities  usuall}^  acquired  by  residing  in  or  near 
a  capital  may  be  observed  in  th.em.  The  inhabitants  of  Al- 
tarria  ought  to  be  distinguished  from  the  rest,  as  simple,  amia- 
ble, and  industrious. 

The  inhabitants  of  La  Mancha  greatly  resemble  those  of 
New  Castile,  but  are  more  serious  and  gloomy;  they  are  a 
good  kind  of  people. 

.  Indocility  and  conceit  make,  part  of  the  character  of  the 
people  of  Navarre  ;  they  are  distinguished  by  lightness  and 
adroitness. 

The  Biscaijans,  are  proud,  conceited,  impetuous,  and  irrita- 
ble ;  they  have  something  abrupt  in  discourse  and  in  action, 
and  an  air  of  haughtiness  and  independence;  they  are  less 
sober  than  most  other  Spaniards  ;  but  are  industrious,  diligent, 
faithful,  hospitable,  and  sociable.  They  have  an  open  coun- 
tenance, and  a  quick,  animated,  and  laughing  expression. 
The  women  are  equally  haughty  and  courageous.  They  la-. 
bor  in  fields  and  at  other  works,  where  strength  is  requiredj 

*  Laborde's  View  of  Spain. 


2G0  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 


SPAIN. 


like  the  men.  The  idea  of  somothinfr  noble  atlnched  to  beina; 
a  native  of  Biscay,  inlinrncos  the  character  of  the  inhal)itants 
of  this  province  in  a  siriiiular  manner  ;  it  keeps  up  anion;;  them 
a  feelinj;  of  dignity,  which  gives  a  haughtiness  to  tlieir  car- 
riage, and  an  elevation  to  tlieir  sentiments,  even  in  the  lowest 
stations  of  life. 

The  (uiliciayis'  are  «rloomy,  and  live  very  little  in  society  ; 
but  they  are  bold,  iaborious,  sober,  and  distinguished  for  theit 

fidelitv- 

The  Asfiirian^  participate  in  the  character  both  of  the  Gall 
cians  and  Biscayans,  but  they  are  less  industrious  than  the 
former,  less  civilized,  less  sociable,  less  amiable,  and  more 
haughty  than  the  latter.  Their  haugfitiness  is  also  nwit» 
marked,  more  repulsive,  and  less  softejied  by  their  temper  and 
manners. 

The  people  of  Kslramadura  are  ]iroud,  hnughty,  vain,  sc- 
t"ious,  indolent,  and  still  more  sober  than  the  Galicians.  They 
^seldom  fro  out  of  their  own  province,  are  afraid  of  strangvrs, 
and  shun  their  company ;  l^ut  tirey  are  true,  honorable,  and 
courageous. 

The  Murcians  are  lazy,  listless,  pkatting,  ami  suspicious; 
they  scarcely  go  out  of  their  own  country,  and  neither  addict 
themselves  to  science,  to  the  arts,  to  commerce,  navigation, 
nor  a  military  life;  they  only  cultivate  their  lands  from  ne- 
cessity, and  make  tnit  little  advantage  of  a  rich  and  fertile 
soil,  a  facility  of  irrigation,  and  the  most  happy  climate. 
The  common  jieoplc  are  sometimes  dangerous  ;  tlicy  too  fre- 
quently m;ike  use  of  the  knife  and  the  dagger;  peofile  of  a  su- 
I)erior  condition,  lead  a  melancholy  and  monotonous  life. 

The  J'lilrjirJaiis  are  light,  inconstimt,  rtnd  without  decision 
of  character;  gay,  fond  of  ])leasure,  little  attached  to  one 
another,    and    still    less  to  strangeis  ;    but   they   ar«!    allable, 

f' entle,  and  agreeable  in  the  intercourse  of  society,  and  able, 
y  their  diligence,  to  unite  the  love  of  pleasure  with  indus- 
trious occupation.  They  are  accused  of  being  vindictive, 
and  hiding  under  a  mild  exterior  Iheir  wishes  and  schemes  of 
Vengeance,  till  an  opi-Kirtimity  oilers  f)f  executing  them  in  a 
safe  and  secret  manner;  but  the  hired  assassins,  formerly 
conmion  in  Valencrn.  have  disappeared,  and  the  people  are 
daily  becoming  more  civilized  by  the  operation  of  wealth  and 
prosperity. 

The  Catalam  are  proud,  haughty,  violent  in  their  passions  ; 
rude  in  discoiu'se  and  in  action,  turl)ulent,  untraclalile,  and 
nassif)nately  fond  of  independence;  they  are  not  particularly 
liberal,  but  active,  indu.strious,  and  indefatigable;  they  are 
sailors,  husbandmen,  and  builders,  and  run  to  all  corners  of 
tlie  world  to  seek  their  fortunes.  They  are  brave,  intrepid, 
sometimes  rash,  obstinate  in  adhering  lo  th(>ir  schemes,  and 
■often  successful  in  vanquishing,  by  their  steady  jierseverance, 
obstacles  which  would  appear  insurmountable  to  others. 

The  Arragonese  are  haughty,  intrepid,  ambitious,  tenacious 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 261 

NATIONAL  CHARACTER. 


of  their  opinions,  and  completely  prejudiced  in  favor  of  their 
country,  their  customs,  and  themselves;  but  prudent,  judicious, 
able  to  appreciate  foreign  merit,  good  politicians,  good  soldiers, 
and  zealous  for  their  laws  and  privileges. 

The  Amhflnsians  are  boastful  and  arrogant;  their  discourse 
is  always  full  of  hyperbole;  their  expressions,  their  gestures, 
their  manners,  their  tone  of  voice,  their  carriage,  all  bear  the 
stamp  of  this  prevailing  disposition  ;  in  short,  they  are  the  Gas- 
cons of  Spain.  Of  this  country  are  the  Majos,  or  bullying 
coxcombs^  whose  favorite  weapon  is  the  dagger,  and  they 
handle  it  with  skill. 

There  are.  however,  some  traits  of  character  which  may  be 
called  national,  and  which  are  almost  universal.     Almost  all 
Spaniards  possess  a  natural  dignity  of  sentiment,  and  have  the 
highest  opinion  of  their  nation  and  themselves,  which  they  en- 
ergetically express  by  their  gestures,  words,  and  actions.  They 
are  very  reserved,  especiaHy  to  strangers.     Their  address  is 
serious,  cold,  and  sometimes  even  repulsive  ;  but  under  this  ap- 
parent gravity  they  possess  an  inwa)Tl  gayety,  which  sometimes 
bursts  out,  and  though  usually  noisy,  is  genuine,  frank,  and 
natural.     The  sum  of  their  virtues  is  thus  summoned  up:  they 
are  sober,  discreet,  adroit,  frank,  patient  in  adversity,  slow  in 
decision,  but  wise  in  deliberation,  ardent  in  enterprise,  and  con- 
stant in  pursuit.     They  are  attached  to  their  religion:  faithful 
to  their  king;  hospitable,  charitable,  noble  in  their  dealings; 
generous,  liberal,  magnificent ;  good  friends,  and  full  of  honor. 
They  are  grave  in  carriage,  serious  in  discourse,  but  gentle 
and  agreeable  in  conversation,  and  enemies  to  falsehood  and 
evil-speaking.      They  are  of  quick  and  lively  parts  ;  intelli- 
gent, ingenious,  fit  for   the  sciences,  literatui-e,  and  the  arts. 
The  Spaniards,  indeed,  possess  many  of  these  virtues  in  an 
eminent  desjree;  but  the  defects  of  their  character  are  equally 
conspicuous  ;  and  superstition  and  a  bad  government  have  de- 
graded them  far  below  the  average  of  the  other  nations  of  Eu- 
rope.    One  of  the  most  prevailing  defects  in  this  people,  is 
their  invincible  indolence,  and  liatred  of  labor,  which  has,  at 
all  times,  paralyzed  the  government  of  their  best  princes,  and 
impeded  the  success  of  their  most  brilliant  enterprises.     In 
every  undertaking,  even  the  most   trilling,  the  Spaniard  de- 
liberates when  he  ought  to  act,  and  seems  to  be  continually 
influenced  by  the  spirit  of  one  of  the  common  proverbs  of  his 
countr}^     This  listlessness  of  disposition,  however,  is  not  so 
general  but  that  there  are  some  exceptions;  and  the  inhabit- 
ants  of   some   of   the    districts   on    the   sea-coast   are   con- 
spicuous for  their  activity  and  industry.     But  this  defect  in 
the  Spaniards  is  a  virtue  when  compared  with  that  depravity 
of   morals   which   pervades   every   class  of  society,  in  this 
country.* 

The  marriage  ceremony  is  the  prelude  to  the  most  ruinous 

*  New  Edinburgh  Encyclopedid. 


262  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

SPAIN. 

gallantry.  While  it  would  be  considered  indecorous  in  an  un- 
married female  to  be  seen  alone  out  of  doors,  or  sittin|2;  tCte-a- 
ttte  witJi  a  gentleman,  the  married  lady  goes  where  she  pleases, 
receives  what  company  she  likes;  and  even  when  indisposed 
in  bed,  she  does  not  scruple  to  see  every  one  of  her  male 
visiters.  Many  gentlemen  are  introduced  to  ladies  of  the  fust 
fashion,  and  visit  them  on  tlie  most  familiar  footing  without  the 
least  acquaintance,  or  even  personal  knowledge  of  their  hus- 
bands. Immediati'ly  after  marriage,  the  lady  must  have,  as  a 
matter  of  course,  a  cnrtrjn,  or  lover,  who  has  in  general  a  very 
strong  hold  upon  her  affections,  and  compared  with  whom  the 
husband  is  a  person  of  very  secondary  consideration.  He  at- 
tends her  upon  all  occasions,  in  private  and  in  jiublic,  in  health 
and  in  sickness.  Wlien  she  sits  at  home,  he  is  at  her  side; 
when  she  walks  out,  his  arm  supports  her;  and  when  she  joins 
in  the  dance,  he  must  be  her  partner.  So  general  is  this  sys- 
tem, that  there  is  scarcely  a  lady  of  resj)ectal)ihty,  wlio  has  not 
her  cor/fjn.  Mr.  Townsend  mentions  the  circumstance  of  a 
gentleman  in  Carthagena  saying  one  morning  to  a  friend,  "Be- 
fore I  go  to  rest  this  night,  the  whole  city  will  be  thrown  into 
confusion."  This  he  himself  occasioneil  by  going  hom<'  an 
hoiu'  before  his  usual  time,  to  the  no  small,  vexation  of  his 
wife  and  her  cortejo,  whose  precipitate  retreat  and  unexpect- 
ed arrival  in  his  house,  occasioned  the  like  confusion  there; 
and  thus  by  successive  and  similar  operations,  was  literally 
fulfilled  the  prediction  of  the  morning.  Though  it  would  ap- 
pear from  this  extract  that  married  men  do  not  hesitate  to 
liold  the  situation  of  a  cortejo,  yet  in  this  disgraceful  connex- 
ion the  clergy  in  general  hold  the  principal  |ilaces  ;  in  the 
great  cities,  tlie  canons  of  the  catiiedrals;  and  in  country  vil- 
lages, the  monks.* 

IVie  Spaniards  nxnj,  in  general,  be  dicided  info  firn  r/ositeft — 
nohfc.s;  or  hidaliros,  and  plflirians.  The  former  inclu(l(>s  all 
those  whose  families,  (;itiier  by  immemoiial  jirescription,  or 
by  the  king's  patent,  are  entitled  to  particular  privileges.  This 
honor  branches  out  through  every  nuile  whose  father  enjoys 
that  privilege,  and  thus  Spain  is  overrun  with  <z''»trij,  manv  of 
whom  earn  liieir  living  in  the  mean(>st  employments.  The 
grandees  hold  the  first  rank,  and  are  divided  into  three  classes, 
which,  however,  differ  from  each  other  only  in  the  form  of  the 
ceremonial  to  be  observed  by  them  when  introduced  at  court. 
A  graiiilee  of  the  highest  rank,  when  presented  to  the  king, 
covers  hims<'lf  before  he  replies  to  th<'  salutation  of  his  majes 
ty  ;  one  of  the  second,  remains  imcovered  till  he  has  paid  his 
compliments  ;  but  one  of  the  third  rank,  is  not  allowed  to  cover 
himself  till  he  has  paid  his  com|)lim(Mits,  made  his  bow.  and 
mingled  with  the  crowd  of  courtiers.  The  privileges  of  this 
body  are  very  important.     They  alone  are  admissible  mto  the 

*  TownBcud's  Travels  in  Spain. 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  263 

COSTUME. 

four  military  orders;  they  are  exempt  from  certain  imposts, 
from  service  in'  the  militia,  and  from  the  billeting  of  troops. 
They  are  not  liable  to  imprisonment  for  debt,  except  for  ar- 
rears of  taxes  payable  to  the  king  ;  they  cannot  be  confined  in 
the  common  prisons,  nor  can  their  house,  their  horse,  their 
mule,  or  their  arms,  be  taken  in  execution. 

The  dress  of  tltn  inhahilavts  of  the  different  provinces  varies 
in  several  particulars,  although  in  others  there  is  a  strikino- re- 
semblance. We  shall  notice  tlie  costume  of  several  provinces. 
That  of  the  city  of  Barcelona,  in  the  province  of  Catalonia,  is 
the  usual  Spanish  dress.  The  ladies  of  every  condition  wear 
the  basquina  (skirt,)  saya  (body  or  spencer.)  and  mantilla 
(veil,)  together  with  silk  stockings,  and  shoes  embroidered 
either  with  silk,  or  with  gold  and  silver  fringe,  spangles,  or 
pearls.  Their  feet  are  for  the  most  part  small  and  well-shaped, 
and  the  basquina  admits  of  the  display  of  this  important  part 
of  the  c^ss  and  figure  of  a  Spanish  belle.  The  veil  is  the 
only  covering  worn  on  the  head  ;  and  by  the  material  of  which 
this  is  made,  the  higher  classes  are  distinguished.  A  Spanish 
lady's  full  dress  is  generally  black,  with  "the  veil  either  white 
or  black,  more  .commonly  the  latter;  her  undress  is  of  any 
color.  They  are  fond  of  adorning  their  hair,  neck,  arms,  and 
fingers  with  jewels.  The  fan  is  a  most  indispensable  article  ; 
and  to  wield  this  sceptre  of  the  fair  with  grace,  and  to  make 
it  perform  all  its  telegraphic  purposes,  is  a  prime  accomplish- 
ment. The  gala  dress  of  the  noblemen  is  as  superb  as  gold 
and  silver  embroidery  can  make  it. 

The  common  dress  of  a  Cataionian  sailor  or  muleteer.  Mr. 
Swinburne  says,  is  brown  ;  and  the  distinctive  mark  by  which 
they  ai-e  known  in  Spain,  is  a  red  woollen  cap,  falling  forwards, 
like  that  of  the  ancient  Phrygians.  The  middling  sort  of  peo- 
ple and  artificers  wear  hats  and  dark  clothes,  with  a  half-wide 
coat  carelessly  tossed  over  the  shoulders.  The  dress  of  the 
women  is  a  black  silk  shirt  over  a  little  hoop,  shoes  without 
heels,  bare  shoulders,  and  a  black  veil  stifiened  out  with  wire, 
so  as  to  arch  out  on  each  side  of  the  head,  somewhat  resem- 
bling the  hooded  serjient.  The  use  of  slouched  hats,  white 
shoes,  and  large  brown  cloaks  by  the  Catalonians,  had  been 
forbidden  by  government. 

In  JMiircia,  the  women  dress  as  in  other  parts  of  Spain  ;  but, 
instead  of  the  elegant  satin  or  velvet  basquinas  and  rich  man- 
tillas which  are  seen  elsewhere,  the  basquina  is  of  yellow,  red, 
green,  or  black  serge,  wide-spreading  and  short,  showing,  in 
place  of  the  handsome-shoe  and  stocking  of  a  Spanish  belle, 
red  or  yellow  woollen  hose  half-way  up  to  the  knee.  The  maii- 
tilla,  worn  here,  is  heavy  and  dismal;  and,  instead  of  the 
usual  Spanish  head-dress,  the  Murcian  ladies  have  their  sleek, 
shining,  black  hair  combed  backwards  tight  and  fiat ;  while 
the  graceful  fan  is  superseded  by  a  huge  chaplet  of  lara-e 
beads,  reaching  nearly  to  the  ground,  Mhich  they  carry  al- 


2C4  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

SPAIN. 

most  always  about  with  them,  even  when  not  going  to  church. 
The  military,  the  merchants,  and  the  official  persons,  dress  in 
the  French  fashion.  The  common  people  in  towns,  wear  a 
round  hat  over  a  black  net,  a  black  waistcoat,  and  a  large 
brown  or  i)lack  mantle.  The  Murcian  peasant  wears,  instead 
of  a  cloak,  a  piece  of  coarse  striped  woollen,  half  an  ell  wide, 
and  two  ells  long,  thrown  over  the  right  shoulder,  a  white 
jacket,  short  white  trousers,  not  covering  the  knee,  a  red 
woollen  girdle,  shoes  of  hemp  or  bass,  and  either  a  round,  or 
slouched  hat,  or  a  leathern  cap  called  a  monterd.  From  his 
general  ajipearance  and  sunburnt  complexion,  he  might  be 
taken  for  a  Moor. 

The  dress  of  the  Granudians  consists  of  the  most  costly 
Persian  or  Turkish  robes,  of  either  fine  woollen,  linen,  silk, 
or  cotton.  In  winter,  they  wear  the  alhomon  or  African  cloak ; 
in  sununer  a  loose  white  wi  apper.  The  i;oldiers  of  Spanish 
extraction  use  in  war  a  short  coat  of  mail,  a  light  helmet,  Ara- 
bian horse-furniture,  a  leathern  buckler,  and  a  sleiider  spear. 
Those  iKirn  in  AlVica  bear  very  long  staves,  called  nnit  <is. 

The  women  are  handsome,  l)ut  of  a  stature  rather  below  the 
middle  size,  so  that  it  is  rare  to  meet  with  a  tall  one  among 
them.  They  are  very  delicate,  and  proild  of  encouraging  a 
prodigious  length  of  hair;  their  teeth  are  white  as  the  driven 
snow,  and  their  whole  persf)n  is  kept  [terfe^ctly  sweet  by  the 
abundant  use  of  the  most  exquisite  iterfinnes  ;  they  are  light 
and  airy  in  their  gait,  of  a  sprightly,  acule  wit,  and  smart  in 
conversation.  In  this  age,  the  vanity  of  the  sex  has  carried 
the  art  of  dressing  themselves  out  with  elegance,  profusion, 
and  magnificence,  to  sufli  an  excess,  that  it  can  no  longer  be 
simply  called  a  luxury,  biit  it  is  become  absolute  madness.* 

The  following  giajihic  descrij)tion  of  a  great  diversity  of 
dress  noticed  in  the  frontier  city  of  Badajoz,  the  capital  of  the 
province  of  Esfrainadina,  is  from  the  pen  of  a  British  ofiicer: 
'■  The  market-place  of  P.adajox,.  whicli,  at  the  lime  I  saw  it, 
was  crowded  w  ith  strangers,  had  all  the  appearance  of  a  pic- 
turesque and  well-arranged  masijuerade.  The  different  modes 
of  dress,  ancient,  and  not  liable  to  daily  changes,  are,  no 
doubt,  the  same  they  were  four  centuries  ago. 

"  The  Isstramaduran  himself  has  a  brown  jacket,  without  a 
collar,  and  v.  ith  slet.-ves  which  lace  at  the  shoulder,  so  that 
they  are  removed  at  pleasure.  The  red  sash  is  imiversally 
worn,  and  a  cloak  is  generally  carried  on  the  l(>ft  arm.  A 
jacket  and  waistcoat  profusely  ornamented  with  silk  l;ice,  and 
buttons  of  silver  filigree,  the  hair  clubbed  and  tied  with  broad 
black  riband,  and  a  neat  cap  f)f  cloth,  or  velvet,  maik  the  An- 
daliisian.  The  ass-driver  of  Cordova  is  clothed  in  a  complete 
flress  of  the  tawny  brown  leather  of  his  native  province.  The 
lemonade-seller  of  Valencia  has  a  linen  shirt  open  at  the  neck, 
a  fancy  waistcoat  without  sleeves,  a  kilt  of  white  cotton,  white 

•  New  Edinburgh  Encyclopedia. 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  265 


COSTUME. 


stockings  rising  to  the  calf,  and  sandals.  Muleteers,  with  their 
broad  body-belts  and  the  old  Spanish  gun,  were  mingled  in 
these  groups.  Here,  too,  were  many  officers  and  soldiers  of 
the  patriot  armies,  which,  raised  in  haste,  were  not  regularly  or 
uniformly  clothed,  if  I  except  some  of  the  old  standing  force. 
Of  these  you  might  see  the  royal  carbinier,  with  the  cocked 
hat,  blue  coat  faced  with  red,  and  instead  of  boots,  the  ancient 
greares,  of  thick,  hard,  black  leather,  laced  at  the  sides ;  the 
aragoon,  in  a  uniform  of  yellow,  black  belts,  and  a  helmet  with 
a  cone  of  brass;  the  royal  or  Walloon  guards,  in  their  neat 
dress  of  blue  and  red,  with  white  lace;  the  common  soldier  in 
brown.  Mingled  with  these  was  the  light  horseman,  in  a  hus- 
sar jacketof  brown,  and  over-alls,  caped,  lined,  and  vandyked 
at  the  bottom  with  tan  leather ;  here,  again,  a  peasant  with 
the  cap  and  coat  of  a  soldier;  there,  a  soldier  from  Navarre 
or  Aragon,  with  the  bare  foot  and  the  light  hempen  sandal  of 
his  country." 

In  Biscay,  lying  on  the  Bay  of  Biscay  and  bordering  on 
France,  the  country  people  wear  brogues,  not  unlike  those  of 
the  Highlands  of  Scotland,  tied  up  with  great  neatness,  being 
the  most  useful  for  a  slippery  and  mountainous  country. 
When  they  are  not  busy  in  the  fields,  they  walk  with  a  staff 
taller  than  themselves,  which  serves  them  to  vault  over  gulleys, 
and  is  an  excellent  weapon  in  case  of  assault,  with  which  they 
will  baffle  the  most  dexterous  swordsman.  They  wear  cloaks 
in  the  winter.  The  pipe  is  constantly  in  the  mouth,  as  well 
for  pleasure,  as  from  a  notion  that  tobacco  preserves  them 
against  the  dampness  of  the  air.  All  this,  joined  to  their  natu- 
ral sprightliness  and  vigor,  gives  them  an  appearance  seeming 
to  border  on  ferocity,  were  it  not  the  reverse  of  their  manners, 
which  are  gentle  and  easy,  when  no  motive  is  given  to  choler, 
which  the  least  spark  kindles  into  violence. 

The  inhabitants  of  mountains  are  usually  strong-ly  attached 
to  their  country,  which  probably  arises  from  the  division  of 
lands,  in  which,  generally  speaking,  all  have  an  interest.  In 
this,  the  Biscayans  exceed  all  other  nations,  looking  with  fond- 
ness on  their  hills  as  the  most  delightful  scenes  in  the  world, 
and  their  people  as  the  most  respectable,  descended  from  the 
aborigines  of  Spain.  This  prepossession  excites  them  to  the 
most  extraordinary  labors,  and  to  execute  things  far  beyond 
what  could  be  expected  in  so  small  and  rugged  a  country, 
where  they  have  few  branches  of  commerce. 

The  manners  of  the  Biscayans  and  of  the  ancient  Irish  are 
so  similar,  on  many  occasions,  as  to  favor  the  notion  of  the 
Irish  being  descendetffrom  them.  Both  men  and  women  are 
extremely  fond  of  pilgrimages,  repairing  from  great  distances 
to  the  churches  of  their  patrons  or  tutelary  saints,  singing  and 
dancing  till  they  almost  drop  down  from  fatigue.  The  Irish 
do  the  same  at  their  patrons.  The  poor  of  Ireland  eat  out  of 
one  dish  with  their  fingers,  and  sit  in  their  smoky  chimneys,  as 
well  as  the  Biscayans.     The  brogue  is  also  the  shoe  of  Biscay, 


266  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

SPAIN. 

The  Irish  women  tie  a  kerchief  round  their  heads,  wear  red 
skirts,  ^o  barefooted,  in  all  which  they  resemble  the  I3iscayans, 
and  with  them  have  an  equally  cjood  opinion  of  their  ancient 
descent.  The  poor  Biscayans,  thougii  haujjjlity,  are  laborious 
and  active,  an  example  worthy  to  be  imitated  by  the  Irish.  So 
many  concurriniz;  circumstances  support  tlie  idea  of  their  hav- 
ing; been  orii^inally  one  people. 

Tlie  iinicersal  und  rtinilur  ilish  for  all  classes  is  the  pat elieiro, 
or  pitchero,  a  stew  of  meat  with  an  excellent  species  of  large 
pea,  which  grows  in  the  utmost  perfection  near  San  Ildefonso. 
With  by  far  the  ^rreater  part  of  the  population,  this  forms  the 
whole  dinner,  and  is  truly  a  national  dish,  being  regularly 
served  every  day  at  the  king's  table,  as  well  as  at  that  of  the 
poorest  mechanic.  Another  favorite  dish  is  called  gazparho, 
consisting  of  bread,  oil,  vinegar,  onions,  salt,  and  red-pepper, 
mixed  together  in  water.  With  such  a  mess,  a  Spaniard  of 
the  lower  class  appeases  his  hunger  for  the  whole  day.  To 
these  national  dishes  may  be  added,  the  sopa  de  g-ato.  or  soup- 
meagre,  made  of  bread,  oil.  salt,  garlick,  and  water;  and  ivi- 
gas,  crumbs  of  bread,  fried  with  oil,  salt,  and  pepper.  On  the 
latter,  or  on  rice  with  a  sausage,  or  a  bit  of  pork-lard  boiled 
in  it,  the  Spanish  troops  subsisted  for  months,  during  the  first 
Peninsular  war,  without  a  murmur.  In  almost  all  the  dishes, 
except  the  poti'luim.  oil  is  greatly  used,  and  that  not  of  the 
best  finality.  Two  other  chief  ingredients  in  Spanish  cookery 
are,  the  (omata,  or  love-apple,  and  the  green  pepper  pod :  the 
former  stewed,  and  the  latter  boiled  and  eaten  with  bread, 
f)rm,  in  their  seasons,  very  material  articles  of  food  among 
the  lower  classes.  The  markets  of  Madrid  are  scantily  sup- 
plied with  meat. — beef  and  veal  from  Aragon,  mutton  from 
Toledo  and  Leon,  pork  from  Estramadura,  game  from  Old 
Castile  and  othor  districts,  and  fish  from  Valencia, — but  plen- 
tifully with  vegetables  and  fruit  from  Valencia  and  Aragon, 
flour  from  Old  Castile,  and  wine  from  La  Mancha.  The  grapes, 
melons,  peachos.  and  cherries,  are  delicious. 

During  dinner,  the  C.istiliaiis  drink  plentifully  of  wine  dilu- 
ted with  water,  and  a  few  bottles  of  French  wine  terminate  the 
repast;  coffee  is  then  served  up,  after  which  the  company  re- 
tire to  take  their  siesta.  Kresh  i»arties  are  formed  in  the  even- 
ing, either  for  the  prado.  the  theatre,  or  ttrliiliiis.  "  In  the 
use  of  wine,"  says  .Mr.  Semple,  '"they  are  certainly  temperate; 
and  a  drunken  Spaniard,  ev«>n  of  the  lowest  class,  is  scarcely 
ever  seen  in  the  streets  of  .M.idrifl.  To  atone  f()r  this,  they 
smokf  immoderately,  and  at  all  hours,  from  their  first  rising 
to  their  hour  of  going  to  bed.  They  do  not  use  pipes,  but 
smoke  the  tobacco  leaf  itself  rolled  up,  or  cut  small  and  wrap 
ped  in  a  slight  covering,  such  as  paper,  or  the  thin  leaves 
of  maize.  Great  rpiantities  of  tfibacco  thus  prepared  are  im- 
I»orted  from  the  Havana,  under  the  name  of  cigars,  in  slight 
■cedar  or  mahogany  boxes,  containing  a  thousand  each. 
Tlio.--;  wrapped  m  the  leaf  of  maize  are  called  pachillos,  or 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  267 


ROADS — LANGUAGE. 


little  straws,  and  are  chiefly  smoked  by  the  women,  for  whose 
use  also  others  are  formed  of  white  paper,  ornamented  with 
a  kind  of  gold  wire.  I  have  seen  women  of  some  rank,  play- 
ing at  cards,  and  smoking  these  pachillos.  The  great  dutchess 
of  Alva,  one  of  the  most  sensible  and  noble-spirited  wome^ 
that  Spain  has  produced  for  many  years,  was  fond  of  using 
them." 

It  is  the  remark  of  a  writer,  that  there  are  hut  twelve  good 
roads  in  Spain;  these  are  M'Adamized.  The  principal  of 
these  roads  are  from  Madrid  to  Bayonne,  to  Barcelona,  and 
to  Seville.  Between  Madrid  and  Toledo,  the  latter  of  which 
is  a  large  city,  and  an  important  place  100  miles  distant,  there 
has  been  no  road  made,  and  the  route  lies  through  fields, 
woods,  and  rocks.  The  necessary  effect  of  this  want  of  in- 
ternal communication  is  to  repress  the  spirit  of  industry  and 
improvement.  Agriculture  suffers  in  an  especial  degree.  The 
little  travel  which  is  accomplished,  is  either  on  horseback,  on 
mules,  in  diligences,  or  in  a  long  covered  wagon,  called 
galera  or  galley.  The  diligences  are  drawn  by  seven  or  eight 
mules,  and  travel  at  the  rate  of  seven  miles  an  hour.  The 
chief  muleteer  is  called  Mayoral,  and  the  postillion  Lagal. 
Travelling  in  Spain,  it  is  well"  known,  is  attended  with  danger, 
from  numerous  bands  of  robbers,  who  infest  the  country. 
Murders,  perhaps,  do  not  often  take  place,  but  the  traveller  is 
sure  to  have  a  sound  beating  unless  his  pocket  or  portmanteau 
furnishes  some  booty  to  the  plunderer.  Guards  are  frequently- 
sent  with  the  diligences,  but  the  traveller  has  no  security  from 
these,  as  they  frequently  have  an  understanding  with  the  rob- 
bers and  divide  with  them  the  spoil,  which  has  been  taken 
from  the  very  persons  whom  they  have  been  sent  to  guard. 
In  some  places,  the  traveller  is  warned  of  danger  by  crosses 
which  are  erected,  and  on  which  are  inscribed  notices  of  tragi- 
cal events  which  happened  in  those  spots  ;  for  example,  "  Here 
John  was  killed,"  &c. 

The  Spanish  language  is  a  compound  of  the  Latin  and  Teu- 
tonic, with  a  small  admixture  of  Arabic.  When  the  country 
was  divided  into  a  variety  of  independent  sovereignties,  each 
kingdom  had  a  dialect  of  its  own.  But  since  the  union  of  the 
crowns,  the  dialect  of  Castile  has  become  the  general  language 
of  the  whole  monarchy,  and  is  still  called  the  Castilian  lan- 
guage. It  is  spoken  in  its  purest  state  in  New  Castile,  espe- 
cially in  the  ancient  kingdom  of  Toledo,  and  is  one  of  the  finest 
of  the  European  languages.  It  is  dignified,  harmonious,  ener- 
getic, and  expressive ;  and  abounds  in  grand  and  sonorous 
expressions,  which  unite  into  measured  periods,  whose  ca- 
dence is  very  agreeable  to  the  ear.  It  is  a  language  well  adapted 
to  poetry,  but  it  also  inclines  to  exaggeration,  and  its  vehe- 
mence easily  degenerates  into  bombast.  Though  naturally 
grave,  it  easily  admits  of  pleasantry.    In  the  mouth  of  well 


268  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

SPAIN. 

educated  men,  it  is  noble  and  expressive;  lively  and  pointed 
in  that  of  the  common  people;  sweet,  seductive,  and  persua- 
sive, when  uttered  by  a  fenKile.  Amontrst  the  orators,  it  ia 
touchin;^  and  imposinp;.  thouirii  rather  ditluse;  at  the  bar,  and 
in  the  schools,  it  is  barbarous ;  and  is  spoken  by  those  about 
the  court  in  a  concise  and  airreeable  manner.  In  the  other 
provinces,  its  purity  has  sufiered  considerably  from  the  in- 
troduction of  foreign  words  and  idioms.  It  is  mixed  with 
French  in  Navarre,  Catalonia,  and  Valencia;  with  Portuguese 
in  Galicia;  and  with  Aral)ic  in  Murcia  and  Andalusia.  The 
Basque  which  is  still  sjioken  in  Biscay,  is  supposed  to  be  the 
ancient  langua^re  of  that  country  before  the  invasion  of  the 
Romans,  and  is  mentioned  by  Strabo  and  Seneca.  It  has  no 
analogy  with  any  known  ton<^ue;  and  is  preserved  without  al- 
teration or  corrui)tion  in  the  mountainous  parts  of  Biscay. 
Thoui^h  it  appears  liar.'<h  and  coarse  to  those  who  do  not  un- 
derstand it,  3et  it  is  said  to  be  destitute  neither  of  ele^^ance  nor 
expression.* 

Dancing  is  a  fnrorite  amusement  of  the  whole  nation  ;  young 
and  oM,  equally  enjjjage  in  it  with  enthusiasm.  Besides  the 
dances  common  to  other  countries,  the  Spaniards  have  three* 
that  arc  purely  national,  namely,  the  ffiiul an sro,  the  bolero,  and 
the  scf/ui<lilla.  Wr.  Townsend  gives  a  lively  idea  of  their  pas- 
sion for  these  dances,  by  saying:  "If  a  per.'^on  \\ere  to  come 
suddenly  into  a  church,  or  a  court  of  justice,  playing  the  fan- 
damrn  or  the  hnlfio,  priests,  judges,  lawyers,  criminals,  audi- 
ence, one  and  all,  grave  and  gay,  young  and  old,  would  quit 
their  functions,  forget  all  their  distinctioi;s,  and  commence 
dancing.  Nocturnal  serenades  of  vocal  or  instrumental  music 
are  given  by  the  young  men  under  the  windows  of  their  mis- 
tresses. I{oiiiurii's,  or  pilgrimages,  to  celebrate  chajiels,  or 
hermitages,  on  tlie  eve  of  the  festival  of  the  patron  saint,  are 
very  fashionable.  The  devotees,  and  tho.se  who  accompany 
them  from  curiosity,  or  worse  motives,  pass  the  night  either 
in  the  porch  of  tlie  church  or  chapel,  or  in  the  neighboring 
fields,  or  under  tents:  men,  women,  and  children,  are  huddled 
together;  they  eat,  drink,  laugh,  sing,  lie  down  and  sleep; 
while  darkness  throws  a  veil  over  a  scene  altogether  incom- 
patible with  acts  of  devotion.  In  the  same  spirit,  when  the 
church  bells,  at  sunset,  give  the  signal  of  repeating  the  prayer 
to  the  Virgin,  the  performers  at  the  theatres,  as  well  as  the 
audience,  fall  upon  their  knees,  and  so  remain  for  several 
minutes;  the  busy  multitude  in  the  streets  are  also  liushed  on 
the  same  occasion,  and  arrested  in  their  pursuits,  as  if  by 
magic,  and  all  carriages  stop  ;  the  won)en  cover  their  faces 
with  their  fan.s,  the  men  take  ofT  their  hat.s,  and  all  breathe, 
or  are  supposed  to  breathe,  a  short  prayer  to  the  protecting 
power  which  has  brought  them  to  the  close  of  another  day. 

•  Modern  Traveller. 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  269 

BULL-FIGHTS. 

After  a  short  pause,  the  women  uncover  their  faces,  the 
carriages  drive  on,  and  the  whole  crowd  is  again  in  motion 
as  before."* 

The  great  national  spectacle  of  Spain,  however,  is  the  Bull- 
Jight.  It  is  now  falling  into  disuse;  but  was  once  the  favorite 
amusement  of  all  classes.  The  following  is  an  account  of  one 
of  these  exhibitions  as  related  by  Mr.  Jacob,  which,  in  1809, 
was  given  in  honor  of  Lord  Wellington: 

"  The  Plaza  de  Toros,  is  a  large  amphitheatre,  capable  of 
holding  14,000  persons.  On  this  occasion  it  was  not  full,  and 
I  suppose  that  not  more  than  10,000  people  were  present.  The 
appearance  of  the  assembly  was  striking,  and  a  degree  of  in- 
terest was  excited  in  every  countenance,  which  I  should  pre- 
viously have  thought  a  much  more  important  contest  would 
scarcely  have  called  forth.  I  entered  the  place  at  the  moment 
when  the  first  bull  was  killed,  and  horses  gaily  decorated 
were  dragging  him  from  the  circle,  amid  the  sounds  of  music 
and  the  applauding  shouts  of  the  people.  Preparations  were 
made  for  a  fresh  conflict.  Three  men  were  posted  behind 
each  other,  about  ten  yards  asunder,  mounted  on  small  but 
active  horses,  and  armed  with  each  a  spear  about  fifteen  feet 
long;  and  five  or  six  men  on  foot,  dressed  in  scarlet  cloaks, 
were  placed  in  other  parts  of  the  arena.  The  gates  were 
thrown  open,  and  the  bull  rushed  in.  He  made  towards  the 
first  horseman,  who  received  him  on  the  point  of  his  spear, 
and  wounded  him  between  the  shoulders.  This  turned  him, 
and  he  attacked  the  second  horseman  with  great  fury;  but, 
from  the  want  either  of  dexterity  in  the  rider,  or  of  agility  in 
the  animal,  the  horse  was  dreadfully  gored  in  the  body,  and 
his  bowels  fell  to  the  ground.  The  combatants  were  soon  dis- 
entangled, and  the  bull  attacked  the  third  horseman,  who  re- 
ceived him  like  the  first,  and  wounded  him  severely.  He  now 
became  furious,  and  galloped  round  the  circle ;  but  either 
from  th-;^  loss  of  blood,  or  the  pam  he  endured,  he  was  fearful 
effacing  the  horsemen.  The  men  oa  foot  then  began  to  irri- 
tate him,  by  sticking  small  darts  in  his  body ;  and,  whenever 
he  made  a  push  at  them,  threw  the  cloak  over  his  eyes,  and 
with  great  dexterity,  avoided  his  thrust.  This  irritation  was 
continued  some  time,  till  the  animal,  streaming  with  blood, 
became  exhausted.  The  matador,  or  principal  actor,  then 
made  his  appearance,  provided  with  a  small  sword  and  cloak  ; 
he  advanced  towards  the  bull,  which  ran  and  pushed  at  him, 
but  the  man  received  the  thrust  on  his  cloak,  and  stepping 
nimbly  aside,  withheld  his  blow  because  the  animal  did  not 
present  himself  in  the  exact  attitude  which  the  matador  re- 
quired for  despatching  him  with  grace.  He  then  made  a  sec- 
ond advance  towards  the  animal,  and,  while  he  was  in  the 
act  of  pushing  at  him,  plunged  the  sword  up  to  the  hilt  be- 

*  Townsend's  Travels  in  Spain. 
23* 


270  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 


SPAIN. 


tween  his  shoulders.  The  bull  ran  a  few  paces,  staggered, 
and  dropped  dead.  The  trumpets  sounded  a  flourish  ;  horses 
galloped  in,  and  hi^in;:^  fastened  to  the  carcass,  dragged  it 
away  amid  the  applautiiiig  shouts  of  the  spectators,  isix  or 
seven  other  bulls  were  then  despatched  in  a  similar  manner, 
with  only  such  variations  as  were  occasioned  by  the  different 
degrees  of  courage  which  the  animals  possessed.  When  the 
last  bull  was  lighting,  the  matador  so  contrived  it,  that  he 
gave  him  the  coup  de  grace  innnediately  under  the  box  in 
which  Lord  W^ellington  and  the  English  party  were  seated. 
Before  this  operation,  he  addressed  himself  to  his  lordship, 
and  said  with  much  dignity,  that  he  should  kill  that  bull  to  the 
health  of  King  George  the  Third,  which  was  quickly  perform- 
ed. His  lordsliip  threw  him  some  money,  and  the  entertain- 
ment closed. 

"  This  bull-figlit  was  rojiresentcd  to  me  as  a  very  ijifiM'ior  ex- 
hiliition,  owing  to  tiie  coolness  ol"  the  weather  ;  tiie  bulls  having 
mu(  h  more  courage  during  the  intense  heat  of  summer,  than 
at  the  present  season,  (November.)  It  is  certainly  an  amuse- 
ment attended  with  gr<\-it  cruelty  both  to  the  liulls  and  the 
horses,  though  not  involving  much  danger  to  the  men.  From 
this  Uiey  were  partly  secured  by  their  own  agility,  and  by  the 
dexterous  api>lication  of  their  cloaks  when  the  animal  charged 
tliem,  and  partly  by  the  barriers  placed  round  the  circle,  be- 
hind which  they  retired  when  jjressed  by  the  bull.  How  re- 
pugnant soever  this  diversion  may  appear  to  every  delicate 
and  feeling  mind,  it  is  more  frequented  and  admired  by  the 
ladies  than  by  the  gentlemen.  Tiiey  att<'nd  these  exhibitions 
in  their  gayest  dresses,  applaud  the  address  of  the  inhmnan 
combatants,  and  feel  tht;  greatest  solicitude  at  the  dillerent  crit- 
ical turns  of  the  light.  Many  of  the  young  country  gentlemen 
may  trace  th(Mr  i^uinto  these  spectacles,  as  deci<l<'(il}'  as  En- 
glishmen of  the  same  class  may  trace  theiis  to  New  Market. 
In  fact,  it  is  the  gieat  ol)j<'ct  which  engages  the  attention  of 
tliat  descrijition  of  men  distinguished  by  the  t»'rm  of  rtiajos."* 

Eihiraftdii  in  S/>ain  is  extrt-mfly  low.  Then*  W(^re  formerly 
twenty-four  universities,  but  thry  are  at  jiresent  reduced  to 
fifteen,  and  of  these,  only  six  deserve  the  name — Salamanca, 
Toledo,  Saragossa,  Valencia,  Alcala,  and  Cervera.  That  of 
Salamanca  is  the  most  anci«-iit.  and  was  at  f)ne  tiuie  the  most 
celebrated  in  Europe.  Resides  the  universities,  military  and 
naval  schools  exist,  and  the  means  of  eliMuentary  instruction 
are  found  in  all  parts  of  the  country;  but  being  under  the  di- 
rection of  a  bigoted  priesthood,  they  have  littlr  other  eflfect 
than  to  propagate  error,  and  such  error  as  will  advance  the 
interest  of  the  papal  power. 

The  liberal  arts  in  Spain  were  once  cultivated  with  great 

*  Jacob's  Travels. 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  271 

PORTOGAL. 

success.  Their  architecture  of  the  sixteenth  century  has  been 
compared  to  that  of  the  Romans,  and  the  bridges  of  Badajos 
and  Toledo,  with  some  of  the  pubUc  buildings  of  the  latter  city, 
and  of  Madrid,  deserve  the  careful  attention  of  the  skilful  ob- 
server. 

Spain  can  boast  also  of  some  distinguished  sculptors;  "but 
of  all  the  liberal  arts,"  says  Laborde,  "  painting  is  that  which 
has  been  most  cultivated  in  Spain,  and  in  which  its  natives 
have  best  succeeded.  The  Spanish  school  holds  a  middle 
place  between  the  Italian  and  Flemish  schools,  being  more 
natural  than  the  first,  more  noble  than  the  second,  and  partici- 
pating in  the  beauties  of  both."  Among  its  distinguished 
painters  may  be  mentioned  Ribera,  better  known  by  the  name 
of  Spagnolet,  distinguished  for  his  skill  in  representing  suffer- 
ing and  sorrow — Velasquez,  excellent  in  portraits — Murillo, 
noted  for  the  finish  and  warmth  of  his  coloring.  Music  is  cul- 
tivated, and  many  of  the  national  airs  of  Spain  are  beautiful. 
The  former  is  not  as  pathetic  as  the  Italian,  but  has  greater 
energy,  and  approximates  more  to  the  romantic.  "  It  speaks," 
says  a  writer,  "  of  a  more  mountainous  country,  of  a  more  high- 
souled  and  chivalrous  people.  The  Italian  airs  breathe  of  little 
but  love.  The  songs  of  Spain  are  mingled  with  romance,  de- 
votion, and  glory,  as  well  as  with  tenderness.  Music  is  not 
cultivated  as  in  Italy  ;  but  it  is  the  amusement  of  all  ranks  and 
conditions  in  Spain.  The  muleteer  sings  to  beguile  the  long 
hours  as  he  speeds  on  his  way,  and  his  rude  carol  is  mingled 
with  the  wild  jingling  of  the  bells.  The  peasants  sing  as  they 
dance  the  sequidilla,  to  the  sounds  of  the  castanet  and  guitar. 
The  cavalier  joins  his  voice  to  the  music  of  his  guitar^  when 
he  serenades  his  high-born-  beauty  beneath  her  latticed  window. 

"The  guitar  is  universally  played  by  the  Spaniards;  and 
suits  well  with  the  wild  romantic  melody  of  Spanish  airs.  The 
Moorish  ballads  which  remain,  are  mournful  and  tender,  breath- 
ing the  very  spirit  of  gallantry  and  impassioned  devotion-. 
The  conquest  of  Granada  called  forth  all  the  musical  strains 
of  her  minstrels,  whether  in  lamentations  over  the  fallen  city, 
or  in  reproaches  to  the  conquerors,  and  the  ballad  entitled 
'  The  Siege  and  Conquest  of  Alhama,'  had  such  an  effect, 
that  it  was  forbidden  to  be  sung  by  tlie  Moors  on  pain  of 
death  within  the  walls  of  Granada,"* 


6.  PORTUGAL- 


The  Portuguese  resemble  the  Spaniards,  but  in  general  they 
are  not  so  tall,  nor  so  well  made.  They  have  swarthy  com- 
plexions, black  hair,  and  dark  eyes,  and  are  said  to  be  irasci- 
ble and  revengeful  in  their  tempers,  and  eager  in  their  gestures 


*  Goodrich's  Universal  Geography. 


272  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 


rOKTUGAL. 


on  trivial  occasions.     Tlie  women  are  small,  with  brown  com- 
l)lexions.  but  regular  features  and  dark  expressive  eyes.    The 
round  face  and  plump  form  are  more  esteemed"  in  this  country, 
than  the  long  tapt-ring  visage  and  thin  delicate  frame  of  the 
Spanisii  ladies.     In  an  interesting  volume  published  by  Mrs. 
Balie,  who  resided  in  Portugal  for  about  two  years  and  a  half, 
we  have  the  following  account  of  females  in  Portugal :  "  Some 
few  youtiifiii  faces,  which  I  have  seen,  appear  pretty  enough  ; 
the  great  charm  being  produced  by  the  dark  and  brilliant  eye 
and  depth  of  eyelash,  to  which  I  have  already  alluded ;  and 
although  the  complexion  is  generally  sallow,  and,  almost  with- 
out exception,  l)ro\vn,  I  have  once  or  twice  remarked  a  very 
rich  and  beautiful  glow,  like  the  bloom  of  a  crimson  carnation 
upon  the  cheek.     The  old  women  appear  to  me,  from  the  spe- 
cimens I  have  hitherto  seen,  to  be  invariably  hideous.     We 
are  given  to  understand,  that  the  higher  the  rank  of  the  peo- 
ple in  tliis  country,  tiie  plainer  in  feature  they  generally  become, 
and  that,  with  some  few  exceptions,  it  is  among  the  peasantry 
alone  that  true  beauty  exists." 

"  Strip  a  Sjxiviani  of  his  virliies,  and  you  make  a  Portu- 
guese of  him,"  says  the  Spanish  proverb.     "  I  4iave  heard  it 
more  truly  said,"  says  Dr.  Southey:  "add  hypocrisy  to  a 
Spaniard's  vices,   and  you  have  the  Portuguese  character." 
Tlie  Portuguese  are  characterized  l)y  dill'erent  features  in  the 
different  parts  of  the  kingdom.     In  Li.slwn.  they  are  pre-emi- 
nently remarkable  for  corruption,  for  insincerity,  and  luxury; 
in  the  southern  provinces,  tliey  are  simple  and  unsophisticated, 
polite,  but  extremely  indolent;  while  in  the  northern  districts, 
they  are  open,  candid,   industrious,  enterprising,  and  ambi- 
tious.    The  general  features,  however,  of  the  peasantiy,  and 
the   inhabitants  of  the  minor  towns,   are  primitiveness  and 
simi»iicity,  such  as  may  be  expected  to  obtain  among  a  peo- 
|ile  that- have  enjoyed  little  intercourse  with  strangers — inac- 
tivity, want  of  enterprise,  silence,  retirement,  dislike  to  social 
j)lea"sures,  attachment  to  the  higher  orders,  blind  reverence  to 
their  jiiiesLs.  and  loyalty  to  their  sovereign.     Treachery,  in- 
gratilutle,   vindictiveness,   have  also  been   uniformly  laid   to 
their  charge.     Notwithstanding  their  fondness  for  seclusion, 
they  are  ho.'^pitable  to  strangers,  particularly  if  they  belong  to 
the  Popish  chinch,  which  is  the  national  religion.     The  nobil- 
ity are  proud,  ostentatious,   and  tyrannical,   displaying  tliat 
feudal  illiberality  and  despotism,  which  is  so  baneful  to  the 
progress  of  liberal  knowledge,  and  to  independence  of  spirit, 
and  which  has  now  nearly  fiisajipeared  in  all  the  more  civili- 
zed countries  of  Panope.     The  peasantry  are,  consequently, 
in  a  state  of  comj>lete  vassalage  to  the  /uV/f/Zi'-ns,  or  gentlemen, 
though,  in  opposition  to  this,  it  may  be  mentioned  as  a  favor- 
able indication  of  character,  that  the  utmost  kindness  and  af- 
faliilily  are,  in  general,  shown  to  domestic  servants,  no  small 
number  of  whom  spend  their  days  in  the  same  family.     That 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  273 

COSTUME. 


indolence  for  which  the  nation,  with  the  exception  of  the  in- 
habitants of  the  northern  provinces,  are  so  remarkable,  may 
probably  be  accounted  for  from  the  endless  holydays  of  the 
Catholic  Church,  and  the  general  debasing  effects  of  that  su- 
perstitious creed  which  it  so  assiduously  inculcates.  In  Lis- 
bon, and  the  provincial  towns,  there  is  a  total  disregard  of 
cleanliness,  a  thing  so  remarkable  in  the  capital,  that  there  is 
not  probably  another  city  in  the  world  in  which  there  is  sd; 
much  filthiness  and  inelegance.  This  grossness  is  least  per- 
ceptible in  Oporto.  The  Portuguese  of  every  rank  are  tempe- 
rate, or  rather  abstemious,  both  in  eating  and  drinking.  The 
only  luxury  of  the  common  people  is  tobacco  ;  and  if  any  of 
them  can  reach  the  height  of  a  dried  Newfoundland  codfish, 
he  regards  himself  as  at  the  summit  of  earthly  felicity. 

The  y'ema/e  character  in  Portugal  is  extremely  retired,  do- 
mestic, amiable,  and  chaste.  Their  bland  and  simple  manners 
are  not  carrupted,  nor  their  attachments  dissipated  by  an  ex- 
tensive communication  with  the  world.  "  As  to  their  persons 
in  general,"  says  Mr.  Murphy,  "  they  are  rather  below  than 
above  the  middle  stature,  but  graceful  and  beautiful.  No  fe- 
males are  less  studious  of  enhanchig  their  attractions,  by  arti- 
ficial means,  or  counterfeiting  by  paltry  arts,  the  charms  which 
nature  has  withheld.  To  the  most  regular  features,  they  add 
a  sprightly  disposition  and  captivating  carriage. 

The  costume  of  (he  lower  orders  of  Z/isbon,  Mrs.  Bailie  says, 
would  not  be  unbecoming  "  if  they  had  a  more  thorough  notion 
of  personal  cleanUness:  when  they  walk  out,  it  invariably 
consists  (in  summer  or  in  winter)  of  a  long  ample  cloth  cloak, 
generally  of  a  brown,  black,  or  scarlet  color,  with  a  deep,  fall- 
ing cape,  called  a  capote,  which  forms  a  graceful  drapery,  both 
to  men  and  women.  The  latter  wear  a  white  muslin  handker- 
chief doubled  cornerwise,  carelessly  thrown  over  the  dark 
braided  locks,  and  fastened  beneath  the  chin.  When  they 
go  to  mass  on  festivals  or  Sundays,  they  carry  a  fan  in  the 
hand,  and  frequently  assume  an  air  of  gravity  and  importance 
bordering  upon  the  supercilious ;  this,  however,  exists  chiefly 
among  the  old  women ;  the  younger  ones  have  a  gay,  cheer- 
ful expression  of  countenance,  and  quick  glancing  eyes,  as; 
brilliant  and  as  dark  as  jet.  AH  wear  pink,  green,  or  yellow 
silk  shoes,  or  even  white  satin,  and  worked  stockings,  (the  lat- 
ter knitted  very  ingeniously  by  the  peasants,)  evQU  in  the  midst 
of  the  most  disgusting  dirt  and  mud:  the  trade  of  the  shoe- 
maker must  be  a  profitable  one  in  this  country !  The  class  one- 
step  higher  in  the  scale  of  society,  indulge  in  tawdry,  ill-chosen 
finery,  in  sorry  imitation  of  the  French  and  EngUsh  fashions; 
but  at  mass,  they  exchange  this  gaudy  attire  for  a  black  silk 
gown,  and  a  deep  transparent  veil,  of  the  same  sombre  hue, 
which  latter  they  throw  over  their  heads  without  any  other 
covering,  even  in  the  coldest  day  of  winter.     Their  religion 


274  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

POHTUOAL. 

induces  this  chastity  of  taste  in  decoration,  and  I  wish  it  pro- 
duced an  equally  beneficial  result  in  other  respects." 

Amouir  the  peasantry  who  come  into  Lisbon  from  tlie  coun- 
try, especially  on  Sundays,  it  is  easy,  Mr.  Semple  says,  to  ob- 
sei've  a  number  of  particulars  in  dress  and  manners,  which 
must  be  referred  to  a  (.'eltic  origin.  Instead  of  hats,  they  fre- 
qu<Mitly  wear  caps  or  bonnets.  The  ancient  plaid,  too  warm 
to  be  carried  in  this  climate  as  a  cloak,  is  converted  into  a 
particolored  sash,  which  they  wear  round  the  middle,  and  in 
which  they  uniformly  carry  a  dirk  or  lon^  knife;  and  their 
favorite  instrument  of  music  is  the  ba2;pipe,  adorned  with 
ribands,  exactly  similar  to  that  used  in  the  Highlands  of 
Scotland.  To  the  sound  of  this  very  instrument,  tw'o  or  three 
of  them  together  dance  a  kind  of  reel;  or,  if  the  tune  be 
slow  and  solemn,  the  piper  walks  backward  and  forward 
amidst  a  silent  and  attentive  crowd.  In  their  lively  dances, 
they  raise  their  hands  above  their  heads,  and  keep  time 
with  their  castanets.  The  Scotch  Highlanders  observe  ex- 
actly the  same  practice  ;  and  there  can  be  no  doubt  that  their 
strong  snapping  of  fingers  is  in  imitation  of  the  sound  of  the 
Castanet. 

In  consequence  of  the  beauty  of  the  climate,  they  spend  most 
of  their  time  in  the  open  air;  and  their  houses.  th(Men>re,  in,- 
stead  of  being,  as  in  Britain,  an  object  of  embellishment  and 
care,  are  plain,  or  are  neglected  to  a  degree  inconceivable  to  a 
stranger;  and  the  fm-niture  even  of  the  most  elegant  edifices  is 
indicative  of  poverty,  or  a  total  disregard  of  taste.  The  houses 
of  even  the  most  opulent  and  eminent  Portuguese,  have  not  yet 
been  distinguished  by  paintings,  or  any  work  of  art  or  genius. 
Billiards,  backgammon,  cards,  and  dice,  have  been  long  known 
and  practised;  but  their  chief  amusements  are  bull-lights  in 
the  amphitheatre,  a  practice  conmion  both  in  Spain  and  Portu- 
gal, and  incompatible  with  great  delicacy  or  refinement  of 
feeling. 

Degcrars  are  a  formidable  class  in  this  country;  they  infest 
every  place,  not  entreating,  but  demanding  alms.  If  they  meet 
a  well-dressed  person  on  the  road,  he  must  ofi'er  them  money, 
the  amount  of  which  is  not  always  left  to  his  discretion.  He 
must  give  first  for  the  sake  of  .St.  Anthony,  then  for  the  sake 
of  St.  Francis;  after  which  he  is  called  upon  to  give  for  the 
honor  of  the  Virgin  Mary ;  and  ultimately,  he  is  robbed  for  the 
love  of  God! 

T/ir  Pnrtuc^uour  lancruap'o,  like  the  Spanish,  is  derived  from 
the  Latin,  which,  indeed,  at  one  period,  was  the  language  of 
the  whole  Peninsula,  but  it  is  also  composed  of  many  Greek 
and  Arabic  words;  and  in  the  southern  provinces,  traces  may 
be  found  of  the  ancient  dialect  of  the  Moors.  As  the  royal  Ime 
of  Portugal  was  of  French  origin,  there  is,  as  may  be  supposed, 
an  admixture  of  various  terms  of  the  language  of  France.     It 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  275 

ITALY. 

is  a  grave,  solemn,  and  melodious  speech ;  the  use  of  vowels 
is  predominant,  and  it  is  possessed  of  no  guttural  sounds;  but 
when  a  tongue,  like  the  Portuguese,  is  composed  of  a  variety 
of  dialects  introduced  at  different  periods,  and  bearing  little  or 
no  resemblance  to  each  other,  a  wide  difference  of  style  may 
be  expected  to  obtain  between  the  writers  of  the  different  ages. 
This  is  the  case  in  a  remarkable  degree,  and  constitutes  one  of 
the  greatest  difficulties  in  obtaining  a  knowledge  of  the  lan- 
guage ;  philology  is  little  studied,  and  no  cultivated  nation  of 
Europe  has  produced  fewer,  or  more  defective  lexicons,  than 
Portugal. 

Among  the  'peculiarities  of  the  Portuguese,  the  following  are 
very  conspicuous.  Corn  instead  of  being  thrashed,  is  trodden 
from  the  husk  by  oxen.  Women,  when  they  ride,  sit  with  the 
left  side  towards  the  horse's  head;  and  a  postillion  rides  on  the 
left  horse.  Footmen  play  at  cards  whilst  waiting  for  their  mas- 
ters. Tailors  sit  at  work  like  shoemakers.  Hair-dressers 
appear  on  Sundays  with  a  sword,  a  cockade,  and  two  watches, 
or  at  least  two  watch-chains.  A  tavern  is  known  by  a  vine- 
bush  ;  a  house  to  be  let,  by  a  piece  of  blank  paper;  and  a  Jew, 
by  his  extra  Catholic  devotion.  Fishwomen  are  seen  with 
trinkets  of  gold  and  silver  about  the  neck  and  wrists;  and  the 
custom  of  wearing  boots  and  black  conical  caps  is  peculiar  to 
fruit-women. 

In  visiting  any  one  above  the  rank  of  a  tradesman,  it  is  ne- 
cessary to  wear  a  sword  and  chapeau ;  if  the  family  be  in 
mourning,  the  visiter  must  also  wear  black.  If  he  come  not  in 
a  coach,  the  servant  will  not  consider  him  a  gentleman  :  and 
were  he  to  visit  in  boots,  he  would  commit  an  unpardonable 
offence,  unless  he  likewise  wore  spurs.  The  master  of  the 
house  follows  the  visitant  when  he  comes  in;  and  precedes  him 
when  he  goes  away. 

The  Roman  Catholic  religion  is  established  in  Portugal,  and 
is  maintained  with  a  great  degree  of  rigor  and  superstition.  As 
a  body,  the  clergy  are  ignorant  and  unenlightened,  and  their 
example  is  far  from  being  safe  to  follow.  At  the  head  of  the 
establishment  is  a  patriarch,  who  is  subordinate  to  the  pope. 
There  are  two  archbisho])s,  and  ten  bishops;  4,262  parishes, 
418  convents,  and  150  nunneries.  The  secular  clergy  amount 
to  22,000;  the  monks  to  14,000^  and  the  nuns  to  10,000.  The 
whole  number  of  the  clergy  is  200,000,  or  one  to  every  fifteen 
of  the  people. 


7.  ITALY. 

.^  Italy^  as  the  country  of  the  ancient  Romans,  can  never  be  con- 
templated without  a  deep  and  lively  intei-est.     This  is  the  case 


£76  UNIVERSAL  TKAVELLETl. 

ITALY. 

in  refjard  to  national  scenery,  and  the  monumental  remains,  by 
which  it  is  ennobled  and  adorned.  In  resjiect  also  to  its  inhab- 
itants, it  is  natural  to  feel  a  similar  interest,  and  to  wish  to  know 
what  they  are,  as  compared  \\  ith  their  ancestors.  The  people 
who  now  dwell  in  this  country,  are  rather  successors  of  the 
Romans  than  descendants.  Oripinally  many  of  the  inhabit- 
ants of  Italy  came  from  Greece  and  the  east;  while  a  portion 
of  them,  it  is  believed,  must  come  from  the  Celtic  or  Gomerian 
ti'ibes  of  the  north,  who  entered  Italy  from  that  quarter.  The 
early  Roman  stock  was  constituted  of  these  minified  races. 
The  present  Italians  are  descended  from  different  nations 
which  overran  Italy  at  various  periods,  thouf^h  they  are  now 
amalgamated  and  form  but  one  people.  Traces  of  (he  Rdman, 
in  the  appearance  of  this  jieople,  are  probably  nearly  effaced: 
but  they  liave  their  jieculiarity  as  the  closely  blended  race  of 
various  ancestors.  They  are  nearly  all  Italians.  A  few 
Greeks  live  on  the  coast  of  the  Adriatic — there  are  sOme  Ger- 
mans in  Lombardy,  Venice,  &c. ;  and  Jews  live  scattered  ovf*r 
the  country,  as  they  do  in  other  countries.  But  the  whole  of  the 
latter  classes  or  races  do  not  exceed  a  few  hundred  thousand 
inhabitants. 

"  In  all  the  states  of  Italy  there  are  the  usual  grades  of  Eu- 
ropean nobility;  and  the  individuals  are  more  numerous  than 
those  of  the  same  class  in  any  other  country.  In  some  of  the 
states  of  Italy,  all  the  sons  of  the  nobility  and  their  sons,  bear 
the  original  title.  Of  course  numbers  are  indigent;  and  many 
of  thrni  are  known  to  solicit  charity. 

"The  Italians  are  distinguished  for  their  animated  and  ex- 
pressive countenances,  and  they  have  very  brilliant  eyes. 
They  are  generally  of  dark  complexions,  well  formed  and 
active.  The  women  have  black  or  aulxirn  hair,  and  most 
of  the  requisitrs  for  beauty.  Among  the  inhaliitants  are 
many  cripples  and  deformed:  for  the  poor  in  Italy  suffer 
many  hardships  and  |)rivations;  but  among  the  lowest  class, 
and  especially  at  Naples,  the  human  form  is  seiMi  in  its  great- 
est j)erfection,  and  the  half-clad  laXzaioni  are  tiie  best  models 
for  u  sculptor. 

77//'  /n'rjiirr  rlas:<;rff  irear  Ihe  cnvnnon  Ktiropran  drcnit.  At 
Gt-noa,  however,  (i^males  of  all  ranks  wear  very  gract^fully 
the  mazzuj-n,  a  kind  of  shawl,  thrown  fiver  the  head  and  shoul- 
ders, and  folded  round  the  arms.  Lady  Morgan  testifies  re- 
.S|)ecting  the  Genoese  ladies,  as  she  saw  them  in  the  streets,  in 
the  (hurt  h,  or  the  circle,  that  they  ajipear  graceful,  jH'i/i/avtfA^ 
and  jiarticularly  handsome — that  they  (frrsH  richly,  exhibiting 
their  finely  formed  arms  and  necks,  even  in  the  morning,  to 
great  advantage ;  and  seem  neither  imconscious.  nor  yet  osten- 
tatious, of  their  attractions.  The  coslum<>  of  the  higher  class 
es  in  the  diHerent  cities  most  probably  varies  one  from  tht: 
,  other,  and  it  is  said  that  the  c»>mmon  peo|)le  all  over  Italy  have 
^their  local  peculiarities  of  dress.     The  fashions  vary  even  in 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  877 

LANGUAGE. 

small  districts  or  towns.  Among  the  low  and  poor  the  most 
indiflferent  clothing-  suffices.  The  shepherds  wear  the  skins 
of  their  flocks  with  the  wool  outward  in  the  summer,  and  in- 
ward in  winter.  These  garments  are  rudely  formed,  and  have 
sometimes  only  holes  pierced  for  the  head  and  arms.  In  Sa- 
voy, the  French  fashions  are  generally  followed  by  the  upper 
class.  In  Sardinia  and  Tuscany,  the  females  have  many  or- 
naments of  gold,  pearl,  and  coral;  and  even  the  poorest  are 
rich  in  these.  In  Tuscany,  the  females  of  the  common  classes 
wear  black  beaver  hats,  with  high  crowns,  and  stiff  plumes  of 
black  feathers.  On  holydays  they  are  streaming  with  ribands. 
At  Naples  the  lazzaroni  have  gaudy  holyday  dresses,  but  some 
of  them  may  be  seen  lying  naked  in  the  sun,  and  many  have 
no  other  covering  than  breeches  that  end  above  the  knee. 
Ladies  there  of  the  middle  rank  go  abroad  in  black  silk  mantles, 
which  are  fastened  behind  round  the  waist,  pass  over  the  head, 
and  end  in  a  deep,  black  veil.  The  very  demureness  of  this 
costume,  says  Mr.  Forsyth,  is  but  a  retinement  in  coquetry. 
In  the  island  Proeida,  the  females  to  this  day  wear  the  Greek 
costume,  which  in  that  sequestered  nook,  though  within  a  few 
miles  of  Naples,  has  descended  from  their  ancestors. 

The  Latin  tongue,  though  with  little  elegance,  yet  still  genu- 
ine, in  respect  to  its  grammar,  continued  to  be  spoken  at  Rome 
about  the  beginning  of  the  seventh  century.  This  appears 
from  the  letters  of  that  period  preserved  by  Cassiodorus,  and 
from  the  sermons  of  Gregory  the  Great,  addressed  to  his  ordi- 
nary congregation  in  that  city.  Even  during  the  four  follow- 
ing centuries,  all  the  p-ublic  records,  and  all  the  writings  of  the 
learned  now  extant,  were  written  in  Latin,  more  or  less  cor- 
rupted. But  from  the  seventh  century,  the  alteration  or  the 
language  proceeded  with  great  rapidity;  and  in  the  ninth 
century,  the  clergy  were  required  to  preach  in  "  Rustica  Ro- 
mana  lingua."  This,  according  to  the  most  prevalent  opinion 
concerning  the  origin  of  the  Italian  language,  was  that  which 
had  been  successively  adopted  by  the  barbarous  conquerors  of 
Italy,  and  had  received  from  each  a  portion  of  their  own 
inflections,  phrases,  and  pronunciation.  The  first  regular 
inscription  of  the  modern  language  is  found  on  the  front  of  the 
cathedral  of  Ferrara,  of  date  1135 ;  and  the  first  written  speci- 
mens are  the  verses  of  a  few  obscure  Sicilian  poets,  about  the 
beginiiing  of  the  thirteenth  century.  But  the  most  singular 
circumstance  in  the  history  of  the  Italiai)  language,  is  the 
rapidity  of  its  improvement.  Though  the  last  of  all  the  mod- 
eria  dialects  in  order  of  birth,  it  was  the  first  which  served  as 
a  vehicle  to  productions  of  human  genius  ;  and  while  the  world 
was  scarcely  conscious  of  its  existence,  it  burst  upon  them  at 
once,  in  all  the  splendor  of  maturity.  It  was  brought  nearly 
to  its  present  standard  by  Dante,  or  at  least  by  his  successors, 
Petrarch  and  Boccace  ;  and  what  is  scarcely  less  remarkable, 
it  has  continued  in  the  same  state,  almost  wholly  unvaried 
2i 


27S  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

ITALY. 

from  the  age  of  these  distinguished  writers  to. the  present  day. 
For  the  space  of  five  centuries,  tlie  Italian  authors  have  con- 
tinued to  write  in  one  unif^)rni  dialect.  .Sweetness  is  the  cliar- 
acteristic  feattue  of  tiie  lanifuaije ;  and  it  appears  as  if  pur- 
posely formed  for  the  service  of  unusual  genius.*" 


I/dlij,  ahovr  (ill  otJtprr,.  is  the  land  of  the  Jiiir  arts,  including 
both  its  ancient  and  modern  days.  It  is  filled  with  architectu- 
ral monuments  which  are  objects  of  universal  admiration,  and 
with  the  ric.'iest  specimens  of  sculpture  and  painting.  It  is  the 
great  school  of  iirt  to  mixiern  civilized  nations.  The  remains 
of  the  glory  of  its  former  days  will  better  be  described  unfier 
the  head  of  antiquities.  The  more  modern  state  of  the  arts 
will  come  under  notice  in  this  place. 

Italy  .stands  pre-eminent  above  every  country  in  the  world, 
both  as  to  the  rom]>n.fi/i(iii  (i»il  e.rrrrttiuii  n/vivsic  ;  but  this  de- 
lightful art,  in  the  hands  ol"  modern  Italians,  has  lost  much  of 
its  strength  antl  diuni;}',  and  become  almost  exclusively  devo- 
ted to  the  purpose  of  licentiousness,  or  at  least  of  efleminacy. 
The  people  of  this  country  evince  ;in  ardent  and  universal 
sensibility  to  the  power  of  music,  and  the  rseapolitans,  |)articu- 
lurly,  are  counted  the  most  refined  and  correct  judges  of  the 
art.  It  was  not  however  till  the  beginning  of  the  seventeenth 
century,  that  the  ojiera  or  musical  di'ama  was  introduced  into 
Rome  and  Venice,  nor  till  the  beginning  of  the  present  century 
at  Naples.  Till  tlie  time  of  the  elder' Scarlatti,  Naples  was 
less  ddigent  in  the  cultivation  of  dramatic  music  than  any 
other  Italian  state.  8in(;e  that  time  all  the  rest  of  Europe  has 
been  l^urnislied  \Nith  composers  and  peiformers  from  that  city, 
and  the  opera  of  San  (^larlo  at  Naples  is  unrivalled  even  by  the 
Scala  at  Milan.  The  Itidian  opera  has  been  iinported  into  all 
tiie  great  towns  in  Miirope,  and  the  singers  are  engaged  at  an 
enormous  sum. 

In  piiinliiifs  and  ncvlpliti  e.  Italy  furnishes  the  most  aliundant 
oppoi  tuiulies  of  improvement  to  the  artist,  or  of  gratification 
to  the  amateur.  '•  The  enoriiiotis  collection  of  statues,  inscrip- 
tions, busts,  and  bus-reiie|s,  amassed  together  in  this  palace, 
by  the  care  of  the  late  popes,"  says  Uarthelemy,  referring  to 
the  Roman  capitol  alone,  '-exhau.sts  admiiation."  We  live  in 
an  ii'on  age  as  anti(iuarii's;  it  is  in  Italy  alone  that  wc  must 
make  resf-arehes.  Kigiu'e  t(,>  yourself  vast  a|>.irtnients,  1  will 
net  say  ornamented,  but  filled,— filled  even  to  thronging,  with 
statues  and  all  s(mIs  of  remains;  a  ealjinet  fiill  of  busts  of 
philosophers,  another  of  busts  fif  emperors;  gallery  after  gal- 
lery, corriMors,  staircases,  in  whith  nothing  is  to  be  seen,  but 
grand  statues,  grand  inscriptions,  grand  bas-reliefs,  consular 
calendars,  ancient  plans  of  Rome  in  mosaic,  colossal  Egyitlian 
statu<'s,  in  basalthus,  or  black  nuuble.  Rut  why  mention  par- 
ticulars ?     ^Ve  lind  here  ancient  Egypt,  ancient  Athens,  an- 

♦  New  Edinburgh  EncyclopcJia,  American  edition. 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  279 

FINE    ARTS. 

cient  Rome."  Italy  is  fall  of  such  objects.  The  fresco  paint- 
ings, especially  of  Pisa,  Florence,  and  Rome,  still  remain  un- 
injured, and  also  the  master-pieces  of  Bologna.  Besides 
immense  numbers  of  statues,  relicvoes,  and  oil-painting,  in  the 
churches  and  palaces,  there  are  museums  and  galleries  ahnost 
in  every  town.  Of  these  the  most  celebrated  are  the  galleries 
in  the  Vatican,  in  the  villa  of  Aklobrandini ;  in  the  villa  cf 
Borghese  at  Rome,  and  those  of  Florence  and  Milan.  Portrait 
painting  alone  is  a  branch  Vviiich  is  rather  in  low  estimation 
in  Italy.  The  inhabitants  in  general  regard  such  performan- 
ces as  engaging  the  admiration  onlj'  of  the  person  represented, 
or  of  the  juiinter  himself;  and  those  who  are  able  to  pay  the 
best  artists,  generally  emplo}^  them  on  subjects  more  univer- 
sally interesting. 

"Italy  is  peopled  with  'beings  of  mind,'  offsprings  of  the 
genius  of  M.  Angelo,  Raphael,  Corregio,  Tintoret,  Claude 
Caravagio,  the  Caracci  Domenichino,  Carlo  Dolci,  GJuercino, 
Ouido,  yalvator  Rosa,  and  many  other  masters.  The  num- 
ber of  good  paintings  is  immense;  collection  after  collection, 
and  museum  after  museum,  open  upon  the  traveller,  and  the 
walls  of  hundreds  of  edifices  are  covered  with  frescoes,  to  ex- 
amine v/hich,  is  the  work  of  months.  The  frescoes  contain 
the  best  productions  of  the  art.  The  best  living  painters  are 
Cammucina  at  Rome,  and  Benvenuto  at  Florence.  The  for- 
mer is  the  greatest  draughtsman  in  Europe,  but  neither  of  them 
have  the  great  requisites  for  excellence." 

"  Sculpture  h;is  at  the  present  day  attained  to  greater  excel- 
lence than  painting.  Thorwalsden,  a  Dane,  the  son  of  an 
Icelander,  is  the  greatest  living  sculptor.  He  has  an  original, 
but  somewhat  erratic  genius  ;  his  statues  have  much  merit,  ami 
his  reliefs  have  not  been  surpassed  but  in  antiquity.  Had  he 
lived  fifty  years  before,  he  would  have  secured  a  greater  fame, 
for  it  is  perilous,  even  for  excellence  in  the  art,  to  be  contem- 
porary with  the  worlvs  of  Canova,  who  has  drawn  from  mar- 
ble the  most  perfect  forms  that  have  been  created  since  the 
best  age  of  Grecian  sculpture." 

The  modern  buildings  of  Italy  are  extremely  numerous,  and 
generally  beautiful.  The  grand  colonnade  of  the  Vatican  is 
one  of  the  most  extensive  and  beautilal  specimens  of  the  pil- 
lared portico  in  the  world ;  and  the  galleries  of  Vicenza  and 
Bologna,  of  the  arcade  style.  The  cathedrals  of  Florence  and 
Milan  excel  in  magnitude,  and  those  of  St.  Georgio  at  Venice, 
and  Sta.  Giustina  at  Padua,  are  distinguished  for  internal  beau- 
ty. The  churches,  and  particularly  the  cathedrals,  present 
striking  instances  of  architectural  elegance,  and  each  of  them 
contains  a  chapel  of  the  holy  sacrament,  which  is  almost  uni- 
versally of  exquisite  workmanship  and  splendid  decorations. 
One  half  of  the  Italian  churches  are  imperfectly  finished  on  the 
outside,  in  consequence  of  their  founders  wanting  funds  to 
complete  their  plans,  and  the  buildings  having  thus  been  car- 
ried on  at  different  periods.    The  palaces  also  are  frequently 


280  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  • 

ITALY. 

in  their  exterior,  deficient  in  strict  arcliitectural  beauty,  but 
well  furnished  with  marbles,  statues,  and  paintinfj;s.  It  has, 
however,  been  said  of  Italy,  with  truth,  that  no  country  possess- 
es so  many  specimens  both  of  sjood  and  of  bad  architecture. 
Amonij  the  most  noted  of  the  modern  structures  may  l)e  men- 
tioned— at  Rome,  the  church  of  St.  Peter,  the  first  in  architec- 
tural grandeur  or  beauty  in  the  world,  the  churches  of  St. 
Clement,  St.  ^Iartin,  and  others;  the  palaces  of  the  pontiff  in 
the  Q,uirinal,  Lateran,  and  Vatican,  the  piazzas  of  Raven- 
na Colonna.  Monte  Citorio — at  Naples,  where  the  churches  are 
deficient  in  architectural  taste,  but  superior  in  the  riches  which 
they  contain,  the  cathedral  of  St.  Paul,  and  of  Spirito  Santo; 
the  theatre  of  San  Carlo,  the  most  spacious  and  inatriiifKent 
in  the  world — at  Genoa,  llie  palaces  of  Durazzo  and  Doria — 
at  Venice,  the  church  of  St.  Marco;  the  ducal  palace,  the 
bridge  of  Rialto,  and  the  arsenal — at  Padua,  the  town-hall,  the 
largest  in  Europe — at  Vicenza.  tiie  palaces  liella  Ratfjone,  and 
del  Capitaneo,  and  many  others  of  unusual  magnificence — at 
Florence,  the  cathedral,  inferior  in  ma<rnitude  only  to  the 
Vatican;  the  mausoleum  of  the  Medicean  family;  the  ponte 
della  Trinita,  one  of  the  most  beautifiil  bridges  in  Europe.* 

Speaking  of  St.  Peter's  church  at  Rome,  Mr.  Forsyth  says, 
"  the  cupola  is  glorious.  Viewed  in  its  design,  its  altitude,  or 
even  its  decorations,  viewed  either  as  a  whole  or  a  part,  it  en- 
chants the  eye,  it  satisfies  the  taste,  it  expands  the  soul.  The 
very  air  seems  to  eat  up  all  that  is  harsh,  or  colossal,  and  leaves 
us  nothing  but  the  sublime  to  feast  on  : — a  sublime  as  |)eculiar 
as  the  genius  of  the  immortal  architect,  and  comprehensible 
only  on  the  spot.  The  four  surrounding  cupolas,  though  but 
satellites  to  the  majesty  of  this,  mi^ht  have  crowned  four  ele- 
gant churches.  No  architecture  ever  surpassed  in  ett'ect  the 
mterior  of  this  pile,  when  illuminated  at  Easter  by  a  single  cross 
of  lamps.  The  immediate  focus  of  gloiy — all  the  gradations 
of  light  and  darkip'ss— the  fine  or  the  ffintasfic  accidents  of 
this  chiaro-scnro — the  projection  of  fixeti  or  moving  shadows 
— the  sombre  of  the  deep  perspectives — the  multitude  kneeling 
round  the  pope — the  groups  in  the  distant  aisles — what  a 
world  of  pictures  for  men  of  art  to  copy  or  combine!  What 
fancy  v.as  ever  so  dull  or  disciplined,  or  worn,  as  to  resist  the 
enthusiasm  of  such  a  scene  !" 

Until  Iftt'  Milli  cpiitnry.  the  ruins  throuirhout  Italy  were  em- 
ployed as  (luarries  for  modern  buildings,  particularly  for  forti- 
fications, without  the  slightest  reverence  or  refiection  ;  but  in 
later  times,  the  inhaljitants,  on  the  contrary,  freijuently  con- 
tribute large  sums  to  preserve  and  repair  the  monuments  of 
antifiuity  in  their  neigliborhood.  The  most  nMiiarkable  of 
these  remains  still  visible  in  Rome,  are  the  Roman  Forum, 
the  Coliseum,  the  Celoaca  Maxima,  the  Circus  of  Caracalla, 

*  New  Edinburgh  Encyclopedia,  American  edition. 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  2S1 

PUBLIC    BUILDINGS. 


the  palace  of  Mec£eiias,  the  arch  of  Constantine  on  the  Palatine, 
the  mausoleum  of  Cecilia  Metella  ;  the  obelisks,  the  aqueducts 
on  the  Viminal,  on  the  brow  of  the  Janiculum,  and  the  fon- 
taiia  de  Trevi,  the  most  magnificent  in  the  world;  the  temples 
of  Minerva  Medica,  of  Vesta,  and  the  Pantheon;  the  baths  of 
Dioclesian,  Titus,  and  Caracalla,  and  the  tombs  of  Augustus 
and  Adrian  in  the  Campus  Martins.  In  the  environs  of  Na- 
ples, are  the  amphitheatre  and  other  remains  near  Puzzuolo  ; 
a  temple  and  various  villas  on  lake  AveiTio;  various  ruins 
round  the  bay  of  Baios;  a  subterranean  edifice  called  Piscina 
Mirabile,  under  the  pronTontory  of  Baulis;  above  all,  Hercu- 
laneurn  and  Pompeii,  especially  a  small  villa  near  the  site  of 
•the  last  mentioned  town.  Of  those  which  attract  the  notice  of 
the  classical  traveller,  in  various  parts  of  the  country,  maybe 
particularly  specified,  the  remains  of  the  Via  Appia,  across 
the  Pontine  marshes  ;  the  anvphitheatre  of  Verona,  capable  of 
■containing  20,000  spectators  ;  at  Fano,  a  triumphal  arch  of 
Aug-nstus  ;  one  of  the  gates  of  Beneventum  ;  a  triumphal  arch 
of  Trajan,  one  of  the  most  magnificent  remains  of  Roman 
grandeur  to  be  found  out  of  the  cit}^  of  Rome;  bridges  of  Ri- 
mini, of  Augustus  over  the  Nar  near  Narni ;  temples  of  Jupi- 
per  Clitumnus  at  La  Vene,  and  one  to  the  north  of  Pcestum,  of 
"the  kind  called  psendo  dipteros,  the  finest  monument  of  ancient 
architecture  ;  aqueducts  near  the  Garigiiano  at  Mola,  and  be- 
hind the  castle  of  Spoleto;  and  villas  of  Adrian  near  Tivoli, 
and  of  Pollius  at  Capo  di  Pim>1o.* 

A  traveller  speaks  of  the  Coliseum,  or  amphitheatre  of  Titus, 
in  the'  following  manner: — "  It  is  the  most  majestic  ruin  in  the 
world.  Three  ranks  of  arches  encircled  the  building,  and  the 
spaces  between  tliein  were  ornameHted  with  Doi-ic  pillars  in 
the  first  story,  with  Ionic  in  the  second,  and  with  Corinthian 
pilasters  in  the  third.  An  Attic  rose  above  the  whole.  It  con- 
tained seats  for  iiearly  80,000  spectators,  and  room  for  20,000 
more.  The  circun)fercnee  of  this  vast  edifice  is  li321  feet,  and 
the  height  170.  Nearly  half  the  outer  wall  remains  entire, 
the  rest  has  fallen  ;  but  the  circle  is  completed  with  the  lower 
elevation,  by  the  wall  of  the  next  corridor  within.  On  enter- 
ing the  arcina  we  saw  no  seats,  but  merely  the  naked  and 
crimibling  arches  which  supported  them.  The  two  upper 
slopes  are  already  destroyed,  and  the  wall  which  rises  above 
is  only  sustained  by  its  own  solidity.  The  rest  are  in  a  great 
measure  preserved,  but  stripped  of  their  covering,  and  broken 
4nto  a  variety  of  forms;  and  the  intei"ior  has  one  face  of 
decay  and  ruin.  Grass  and  weeds  .cover  those  parts  which 
have  suffered  most  from  time  and  violence,  and  this  solitary 
monument  of  fallen  greatness  inspires  a  deeper  interest  now, 
than  it  could  have  done  when  it  was  perfect  and  uninjured. "t 

There  are,  perhaps,  no  people  in  the  world  of  whose  national 

*  New  Edinburgh  Encyclopedia, 
t  Berrian's  Travels  in  France  and  Italy. 
24* 


282  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

italV. 

character  more  opposite  and  inconsistent  sketches  have  be'en 
given,  than  of  the  modern  inhabitants  of  Italy.  It  is  utterly 
impossible  to  reconcile  the  varyini;  testimonies  of  different 
travellers  on  the  subject,  or  to  collect  the  leading  features  of 
one  generally  applicable  description.  The  cause  may  proba- 
bly be. found,  not  merely  in  the  different  degrees  of  judgment, 
candor,  and  oppoitunity  possessinl  l)y  the  writers;  but  in  the 
real  diversity  of  character  wliicli  exists  in  the  country,  where 
the  inhabitants  live  under  so  many  different  forms  of  govern- 
ment, and  in  such  diversified  circumstances  of  conditions. 
"  The  oaths  and  curses,  for  instance,  so  frequent  in  the  mouths 
of  the  vulgar,"  says  Swinburne,  "change  entirely  at  the  first 
step  one  makes  'out  of  the  Roman  into  the  Neapolitan  territon 
ries.'  The  Romans  having  the  fear  of  the  inquisition  before 
their  eyes,  vent  their  choler  in  obscure  wf)rds,  or  })ious  ejacu- 
lations; but  the  swearing  of  the  Nea|)olitan,  who  is  under  no 
such  restraint,  borders  u])on  blasphi'my."  Nay,  even  in  the 
different  provinces  of  the  same  state,  diversities  are  observa- 
ble in  the  manners  and  dispos;itions  of  the  inhabitants.  The 
north  Calabrese  Iiave  a  great  tleal  of  German  solidity  in  their 
disposition,  supposed  to  arise  from  the  colf)nies  transplanted 
thither  under  tlie  Suabian  princes  ;  whihUhe  most  evident  tra- 
ces of  Grecian  manners  and  turn  of  mind  are  found  in  the 
southern  Calal)iese  and  the  Neapolitans  ;  and  the  Pie<lmontese 
approach  in  like  manner  to  the  Fiem.li  character.  Aiiudig  the 
Neapolitans,  the  upper  ranks  are  ignorant,  licentious,  dissi- 
pated, and  inveterately  addicted  to  the  most  ruinous  gallantry 
Uie  gentlemen  of  tli(>  church  and  the  law,  tolerably  well  edu- 
cated; the  middle  class  possessed  of  considerable  worth;  and 
the  k)wer  populace  good-humored,  open-hearted,  passionate, 
but  not  mnlicJt)u-<.  and  so  fond  of  drollery,  that  a  joke  will  fre 

•  juently  serve  io  clieck  their  most  violent  llts  of  anger. 

The  Tuscans  ar(\  in  every  view,  tin-  most  worthy  and  in- 
dustrious part  of  the  nation.  The  wealthier  individuals  are 
fond  of  learning,  and  friejidly  to  strangers.  The  p(>asantry 
are  sober  in  thr-lr  manners,  and  even  distinguished  above  the 
other  Italians  in  respect  U^  thvir  pcrsonjij  appi-arauee. 

•  The  Romans  possess  neither  the  worth  of  the  Tuscans,  nor 
the  good-humored  buffoonery  of  the  Neapolitans.  The  nobles 
are  })olite  to  foreiirinMs.  but  th(> trades-jieople  and  populace  are 
savage  and  fraudulent,  retaininij  much  of  the  ant:ient  haughty 
character,  and  proud  of  their  descent  Own  tiie  conquerors  of 
the  world.  The  higher  ranks  throiiLdioiit  ItiilV  are  extremely 
hospitable,  so  that  a  good  letter  of  reiommendation  may  carry 
a  traveller  from  house  to  housf.  ;i!I  ov<'r  the  country.  Persons 
of  rank  among  tin"mselves  usually  jiass  in  their  journeys  from 
one  vUla  to  another,  without  making  use  of  the  inns,  which 
are  consequently  possess(>d  of  very  iiiH^rior  accommodations. 
The  inhabitants  in  j,'eneral  are  full  of  civility  to  straiigeis;  and 
are  remarkable  for  honesty  to  one  another,  so  that  even  in 
Calabria  the  houses  are  left  entirely  open,  during  the  absence 


Universal  TRAVELLEii.  gs3 

CHARACTER — MORALSv 


of  the  family  on  their  daily  avocations.  The  Italians,  in  gen^ 
eral,  are  represented  as  dirty  in  their  dress,  cookery,  and  per- 
sons.* 

Says  an  American  traveller,  respecting  the  character  of  the 
Italians,  "the  country  is  too  mucii  impoverished  to  permit  the 
richest  to  be  very  hospitable.  From  die  peculiarity  of  some 
of  their  customs, — from  their  rooted  attachment  to  the  Romish 
reUgion — the  proud  recollections  of  past  glory — and  the  exas- 
peration produced  by  recent  injury  and  oppression,  visiters 
from  several  nations  are  apt  to  meet  with  coldness  and  reserve. 
The  Austrians  are  abhorred  for  their  tyrannical  exactions, 
and  for  the  sordid  parsimony  which  hoards  up  the  fruits  of 
tJieir  rapacity.  The  French  are  disliked  by  many  for  their  ri- 
valry and  vanity,  and  for  manifold  evils  too  fresh  to  be  for- 
gotten. The  English  by  their  religion,  their  gravity,  the 
severity  of  their  opinions  upon  certain  pbints,  and  the  differ* 
ence  in  the  whole  cast  of  their  habits  and  manners,  have  still 
less  affinity  with  the  Ralians.  Any  of  these  who  are  properly 
introduced  may  be  Well  received,  thongh  jierhaps  with  less 
cordiality  than  in  any  other  nation  in  Europe.  The  Ameri^ 
can,  except  in  the  Neapolitan  kingdom,  finds  predilection  in- 
stead of  prejudice,  but  yet  he  is  peculiarly  circumstanced.  We 
have  scarcely  any  connexion  with  their  people.  That  which 
exists  has  arisen  almost  entirely  out  of  a  very  inconsiderable 
trade,  and  is  confined  to  a  few  commercial  ports.  We  have 
no  privileged  orders  among  us  who  can  procure  us  admission 
into  tl?e  best  society  here;  and  though  from  accidental  inti- 
macies, or  from  letters  obtained  abroaid,  individuals  may  some- 
times be  enabled  to  associate  with  the  nobility  and  gentry,  yet 
I  never  heard  of  many  of  our  countrymen  who  had  enjoyed  this 
•Ttdvantage. 

"  The  Italians,  with  the  exception  of  some  of  the  lowest  walks 
t)f  society,  are  a  kind-hearted  and  affectionate  people.  We 
discover  this  in  their  general  air  and  manner,  in  the  little  cour- 
tesies of  life,  in  the  endearing  nature  of  their  salutations  to 
each  other,  and  in  the  warm  attachment  arising  very  often 
out  of  incidental  and  transient  intimacies.  A  friend  in  meet- 
ing another,  addresses  him  with  caro,  caro,  a  term  appro- 
priated among  us  to  those  alone  who  stand  in  the  teffderest 
relations  to  us.  If  he  is  visiting  a  villa,  and  finds  at  the  gate 
the  porter'-s  wife,  or  asks  a  question  of  any  woman  in  the  street:^, 
he  always  prefaces  it  with  sposa.  sposa,  an  appellation  which 
is  not  peculiarly  significant  in  itself,  but  which  impresses 
a  stranger  pleasantly  by  the  softness  of  the  sound,  and  the 
familiar  regard  with  which  it  is  spoken.  If  he  introduces  you- 
to  his  family  or  friends,  it  is  with  such  extravagant  expres- 
sions of  kindness  as  would  make  you  uneasy,  were  you  not 
soon  put  at  ease  by  as  kind  a  reception.  If  he  parts  witl* 
you  for  a  time,  he  kisses  you  on  both  cheeks,  with  many  an 

♦  New  Edinburgh  Encyclopedia,  American  edition. 


284  UNIVERSy\L  TRAVELLEK. 


ITALY. 


addio;  or  if  he  receives  you  after  any  absence,  there  i.s  the 
same  token  of  regard,  wiih  the  most  heart)^  [greetings.  Even 
at  a  coffee-iiouse  wheiv  you  are  ueil  known,  on  your  return 
from  a  journey  the  st^-vants  will  accost  you  with  a  smile,  and 
ben  arrivato." 

"Ho\v  much  of  all  this  is  felt,  it  is  difficnlt  to  say,  but  it  is 
ncconipanied  by  such  an  api^fMirauce  of  openness  and  sincer- 
ity, as  induced  me  to  give  them  cre(ht  for  a  good  degree  of  it, 
and  to  believe  them  a  kind  and  amial»le  jieople. 

"This  is  likewise  hhown  in  their  <r<'iieral  urbanity  towards 
stranger?,  and  in  the  many  obliging  oifices  wiiicii  they  are  dis- 
posed to  render  to  them.  Tliey  cio  not,  as  was  before  remarked, 
indulge  in  an  expensive  hos|ntality.  Tlwy  are  si)anng  of  their 
money,  but  not  of  their  time  and  (rfnil)!.-." 

"The  state  of  j/)«?(7/.s-,  from  all  tiiat  I  could  leain,  is  deplora- 
ble. The  licensed  gallantry  in  the  married  state  among  the 
upper  clas.<;es,  furnishes  a  fearful  conjecture  of  their  corrui)tio'n 
in  other  points  ;  for  how  can  tlie  social  or  domestic  virtues  be 
cherished,  where  the  practice  of  the  highest  brings  no  honor, 
nor  the  violation  of  it  any  reproacli.  Home  has  not  our  lies. 
It  is  not  so  much  respected  and  endeared,  and  accordingly 
there  never  was  perhaps  any  people  wlio  lived  so  nmch  away 
from  it.  The  promenades,  the  cafc.^,  the  rcsldtunnL^,  and  ail 
the  public  places,  are  filled  with  them." 

"  The  people  of  the  Icnrtr  clu.tscs'  ap[)ep.red  to  me  almost  uni- 
formly deceitful  and  dislwnest.  An  exception  is  a  prodii'y. 
The  pi-rsons  with  whom  a  traveller  has  most  to  deal,  are  not 
indeed  a  fair  specimen  of  tlif?  niorals  of  any  country.  But  we 
were  occasionally  brought  into  contact  with  others  not  com- 
prehended under  this  description,  and  tlierc  seemed  to  be  a 
settle  d  design  among  all  to  impose  on  the  ignorant,  ai:d  to  cir- 
cumvent the  cmuiiii'/  and  iiffnnned.  Perpetual  vigilance  and 
the  nicest  precautions,  are  the  only  security  against  perjietiial 
plunder.  And  sometimes  in  resi.^ting  the  fraudulent  exactness 
of  the  more  vulgar,  our  firmiie.'is  is  nearly  subdued  by  their 
fierceness,  brutality,  and  clamor." 

"Much  of  this  inconvenience,  which  is  the  greatest  drawback 
X)n  our  pleasure  in  this  <lelightful  country,  may  be  avoided  by 
settling  the  price  of  every  thing,  however  trifling,  beforehand, 
and  by  acting  in  all  cases,  when  you  are  satisfied  tliat  yon  arc 
right,  with  determination,  and  at  the  sam(?  tin)o  with  modera- 
tion and  prudence." 

"The  Italians  have  les.s  gayetyand  vivacity  than  the  French, 
l)Ut  more  good  nature,  more  ntiif<irm  cheerfulness,  and  greater 
efiuanimity  of  temper.  They  will  txeome  earnest  and  warm 
in  conversation,  and  so  rapid,  vociferoi.'s,  and  varied  in  the  in 
tonations  of  their  voice,  that  those  who  are  unaciiuainted  with 
them  would  imagine  that  a  storm  was  gathering,  when  perhaps 
no  other  emotion  is  felt  than  a  lively  interest  in  the  subject  un- 
der discussion.     IJut  tliey  do  not,  like  the  latter,  uncler  real 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  2S5 

NATIONAL  CHARACTER. 


provocation,  kindle  in  a  moment,  and  burst  out  into  sucii  un- 
controllable transports  of  passion." 

f  They  have  generally  been  accused  of  indolence,  but  it  is 
not  so  much  from  their  love  of  inactivity,  as  from  their  having 
so  little  to  do.  The  poor,  universally,  and  even  the  lazzaroni 
at  Naples,  are  all  anxious  for  employment,  and  the  eager  com- 
petition and  scrambling  for  it,  is  one  of  the  constant  vexations 
of  the  traveller." 

The  naliona!  character  is  the  most  ruined  thing  in  Rome. 
Tlie  very  name  of  Roman  becomes  a  burden  on  the  people 
who  now  bear  it,  by  suggesting  comparisons  which  are  pet'- 
haps  unfair.  Men  are  in  the  mass  What  governments  make 
them,  and  who  can  now  calculate  the  powers  of  the  present 
race  if  differently  directed?  They  inherit  at  least  one  charac- 
teristic of  their  republican  ancestors,  that  local  pride  which 
Rome  has  always  excited  in  its  natives. 

The  character  of  the  common  people  is  usually  locked  up, 
yet  subject  to  strange  escapes.  They  can  make  long  sacrifices 
to  a  distant  pleasure.  Thousands  nearly  starve  during  the 
whole  month  of  September,  to  provide  for  one  extravagant 
feast  in  October,  at  Monte  Testoccio.  Though  timidly  cau- 
tious in  common  ti'ansactions,  they  are  desperate  at  play. 
This  passion,  pervading  every  rank,  finds  all  the  lotteries  of 
Italy  open  at  Rome.  Many  call  religion  in  to  the  aid  of  gam- 
bling; they  resort  to  San  Giovanni  Decallato,  a  church  de- 
voted to  condemned  criminals,  and  try  to  catch  in  prayer 
certain  divine  intimations  of  the  lucky  ticket.  Their  resent- 
ments can  lie  brooding  for  years  before  they  start  out.  In 
their  quarrels  you  will  never  see  any  approach  to  fair  fighting. 
Boys  fiy  to  stones,  and  men  to  the  clasp-knife  ;  but  the  blood- 
iest ruffian  abstains  from  firearms.  To  shoot  your  enemy  is 
held  atrocious;  to  plunge  a  stiletto  into  his  back,  a  proof  of 
spirit. 

Urbanity  is  scarce!)'^  to  be  considered  as  any  great  merit  at 
Rome.  The  weak  composition  of  the  Roman  court,  its  de- 
pendance  on  so  many  states,  the  resort  of  great  and  accom- 
plished strangers,  the  subsistence  which  the  people  derive 
from  their  expenditure,  make  courtesy  an  obligation  on  all. 
In  no  part  of  Italy  are  the  conversazio^ie  more  elegant,  more 
various,  or  more  free  from  aristocratical  stiffness.  Whether 
general  gayety,  or  literature,  or  the  arts,  gaming,  or  music, 
or  politics,  or  buffoonery,  be  your  object,  in  one  house  or 
other  you  may  be  gratified  every  evening.  Whatever  be 
your  pretensions,  here  they  will  be  fully  allowed.  Rome  is 
a  market  well  stocked  with  the  "commodity  of  good  names." 
Praise,  you  may  command  even  to  a  surfeit,  ])rovided  you 
repay  it ;  for  they  flatter  only  on  the  same  fair  terms  as  the 
people  louse  each  other  in  the  streets — scratch  for  scratch. 

V\/ith  all  this  civility,  their  humor  is  naturally  caustic ;  but 
they  lampoon,  as  they  stab,  only  in  the  dark.  The  danger  at- 
tending open  attacks,  forces  them  to  confine  their  satire  within 


286  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 


ITALY. 


epigram;  and  thus  pasquinade  is  but  tliooffsprincr  of  hyiiocrisy, 
the  only  resource  of  wits,  who  are  obliged  to  be  grave  on  so 
many  absurdities  in  religion,  and  respectful  to  so  many  up- 
starts in  pur])Ie. 

Tlie  Honian  ladies  are  more  indebted  to  nature  than  to 
man.  Their  general  style  of  beauty  is  large,  like  the  Juno; 
and  their  forms,  though  luxuriant,  are  so  perfect  in  proportion, 
tiiat  a  critic  is  driven  to  their  fi'et  before  he  can  lind  a  defect. 
Animation  offeaturt\  dignity  of  gesture,  a  language  all  music, 
quickness  of  remark,  a  line  tinge  of  religion — every  female  at- 
traction is  theirs,  except  perhaps  the  best.  But  alas!  can 
modesty  be  expected  in  a  state  where  celibacy  sits  enthroned, 
and  fills  every  post  of  authority  or  instruction?  Must  not 
the  interest,  the  animal  wants  of  the  governors  discourage 
fidelity  in  the  sex?  Must  not  a  government  of  priests,  from 
necessity,  form  a  nation  of  libertines  ? 

Women  thus  born  for  seduction,  excel  in  all  the  syren  ac- 
complishments, music,  dancing,  and  sometiines  poetry  ;  but 
they  have  lost  those  severer  graces  and  that  literate  character 
which  once  astonished  Eurojie.  The  time  is  past  when  Italian 
ladies  wore  the  doctoral  cap.  filled  the  faculty-chairs,  preach- 
ed, dissected,  spoke  Latin,  wrote  Greek,  and  plunged  into  the 
depths  of  science.  The  time  is  past  when  the  first  women  in 
Italy  seemed  to  live  for  the  historian. 

No  class  in  the  papal  state  can  be  more  impf)rtant  than  the 
clergy.  Thesi-  in  general,  are  leai'ned,  at  least  literary  men  ; 
pretty  corject  in  vxteriors,  and  guarded  in  their  debauchery. 
From  the  length  and  rigor  of  their  education,  most  of  them 
smell  of  the  college  or  convent.  Wlien  dazzled  with  the  splen- 
dor of  the  Roman  clergy,  through  all  their  gradation  of  color, 
gray,  black,  i)urple,  scarlet,  up  to  the  sovereign  white;  when 
we  have  admired  their  palaces,  their  liveries,  their  carriages 
wheeled  out  in  rows  to  be  admired  ;  let  us  then  reverse  the 
medal,  and  view  the  exhaustion  which  this  grf)ss  plethory  of 
clerical  wealth  leaves  below  it.  Let  us  survey  all  the  forms 
of  misery,  the  sickness,  the  sores,  the  deformity,  the  hunger, 
which  infest  the  streets,  where  every  beggar  is  distingui.sned 
by  his  own  attitude,  ti)ne,  and  vari(  ty  of  the  pathetic,  while  all 
together  jtrt'srnt  a  strange  climax  of  wretchedness. 

In  the  morning  comes  a  Marchesa  to  your  lodgings,  recounts 
the  fortunes  of  her  noble  house,  its  rank,  its  loyalty,  its  disas- 
ters, its  fall,  and  tlien  relieves  "your  most  illustrious  Excellen- 
cy" from  eml)arra>siui>iit,  by  bcgLring  one  or  two  pauls.  An 
old  abate  steals  on  your  evening  walk,  and  twitching  you  with 
affected  secrecy,  whispers  that  he  is  starving.  On  the  dirty 
pavement  you  see  I'overi  Vergognosi  kneeling  silently  in 
masks.  In  the  cotfee-houses  stand  a  more  unfurlunate  class, 
who  watch  the  waiter's  motions  to  dart  on  your  change.  In 
the  courts  of  palaces,  you  meet  wretches  gnawing  the  raw 
roots  gleaned  from  the  dunghill,  and  at  night  you  will  some- 
times find  at  your  gateway  a  poor  boy  sleeping  close  to  his 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  287 


CHARACTER — MANUFACTURES. 


dog  for  mutual  warmth.     Such   is  the  metropolis  of  papal 
cliristianity  on  earth  !* 

"The  Romans,  generally,  are  the  least  cheerful  of  all  the 
people  of  Italy,  though  at  the  Carnival  their  gayety  is  without 
bounds.  It  would  seem,  from  their  dispositions,  that  to  live 
among  the  wrecks  of  former  greatness,  has  a  de})ressing  effect 
upon  their  spirits.  On  the  many  holydays  that  abound  in  the 
capital  of  the  Catholic  church,  the  common  people  are  seen 
listlessly  standing  or  sauntering  about  the  streets  with  no  out- 
ward sign  of  cheerfulness  ;  whereas  at  holydays,  or  on  all  days 
at  Florence  and  Naples,  the  inhabitants  seem  to  be  animated 
by  some  joyous  impulse.  But  no  extremes  are  more  distant 
than  the  character  of  Rome  and  Naples.  But  the  Romans 
have  much  to  depress  them,  besides  the  ruins  of  former  great- 
ness, which  indeed  make  no  part  of  their  regrets.  They  are 
oppressed,  pillaged,  bound  in  ignorance,  and  steeped  in  pov- 
erty. They  live  in  a  gloomy  city,  surrounded  by  a  desert, 
and  the  malaria  invades  their  very  dwellings.  There  is  open 
to  them  no  ennobling  pursuit;  to  talent  there  is  neither  excite- 
ment nor  reward.  There  a)e  neither  tlie  annisements  of  the 
French,  nor  the  domestic  life  of  the  Enghsh  ;  and  if  the  Ro- 
man is  not  cheerful  by  temperament,  he  lias  little  to  make  him 
so  in  his  circumstances." 

The  inhabitants  of  the  Neapolitan  territory  preserve  the 
levity  and  cheerfulness  of  then-  Greek  ancestuis;  and  they 
have  a  vehemence  of  character  that  seems  suited  to  their  vol- 
canic soil.  All  their  pursuits,  whether  of  pleasure,  devotion, 
or  gain,  inspire  them  fur  the  moment  witli  the  ardor  of  a  ruling 
passion.  Tl.e  Arnauts  of  Calabria  are  a  tine  race  of  men, 
hardy  and  brave,  but  less  cheerful  than  their  coantrymen  of 
the  plains.'" 

The  mamifacinres  cf  Italy  are  neither  numerous  nor  exten- 
sive, wheii  compared  with  the  fertility  of  the  soil  and  advanta- 
geous situation  of  the  country.  Silk,  wool,  and  cotton  are  the 
})rincipal  articles  which  occupy  its  manufacturing  population; 
but  a  greater  proportion  of  these  commodities  are  exported 
in  the  raw  state,  than  wrought  up  at  home.  The  former  may 
be  considered  as  the  staple  of  Italy,  and  many  of  its  poor  find 
regular  employment  in  the  care  of  the  silkworm,  and  the  cul- 
ture of  the  mulberry  tree  on  which  it  feeds.  In  the  Neapolitan 
territory  excise  duties  are  extremely  heavy  on  the  silk  manu- 
facture. Every  mulberry  tree  pays  a  tax  of  two  carlini  (about 
16  cents)  per  annum.  As  soon  as  the  silk  is  drawn,  while  the 
article,  is  still  wet  and  heavy,  forty-two  grano  (about  33 
cents)  are  exacted  for  every  pound,  and  even  the  refuse  and 
unprolitable  pods  are  forced  to  pay  one  grano  (nearly  one 
cent)  per  pound.  Yet  with  all  these  exactions  and  oppress- 
ions, about  800,000  pounds  weight  are  annually  produced  in 

*  Forsyth's  P>,emarks  on  Italy. 


288  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

ITALY. 

the  kingdom  of  Naples,  of  which  one  lialf  is  supposed  to  be 
worked  at  home,  and  the  otlier  half  exported  in  the  raw  state. 
The  best  silks  in  the  whole  Italian  district,  and  perhaps  in  the 
world,  are  said  to  be  those  of  Mondovi,  Dionero,  and  Cavag- 
lio,  near  Coni,  and  of  the  little  tract  of  Fossoinbrona,  in  the 
diitchy  of  Urbino. 

Wool  is  exported  chietly  in  the  raw  material ;  and  the  prov- 
inces of  Italy,  iiarticuliirly  those  of  the  souti).  with  every 
advantage  for  the  manufacture  of  broadcloths,  depend  almost 
entirely  on  tlie  foreign  market  for  most  woollen  stufis.  For- 
merly, the  woollen  manufactures  of  Padua  were  in  a  very 
flourishing  state  ;  and  ils  cloths  are  still  esteemed  the  best  in 
Italy.  Manulacturi'S  of  woollen  iiave  in  later  years  been 
established  at  Rome;  and  that  named  St.  Michael  is  famous 
for  its  fine  cloths,  but  are  all  undeisold  by  the  English  arti- 
cles. The  cotton  also  is  pxpoited  in  great  quantities;  but  in 
several  provinces,  especially  that  ol  Otranto,  is  nuinufactured 
into  a  variety  of  valuable  commodities.  In  Gallippoli,  muslins 
of  all  kinds,  and  cotton  stockings,  are  madt;  in  considerable 
quantities;  and  at  Nardo,  and  Cialatona  in  its  vicinity,  are 
wrought  those  famous  cotton  coverlets  which  are  exporteii  to 
all  parts  of  the  world,  ajid  bring  in  a  considerable  revenue  to 
the  crown.  Taranto  is  celebrated  for  the  extraordinary  beau- 
ty and  fineness  of  the  cotton  stockings  whicii  are  made  by  its 
inhabitants,  some  of  w  hich  cost  on  the  spot  not  less  tlnm  a 
guinea  a  pair. 

At  Teramo  is  a  ma*nifacture  of  pottery  waie,  remarkably 
hard  and  line,  for  which  there  is  a  consi<lerabl(?  demand  in 
Germany  by  the  way  of  Trieste:  and  the  porcelain  made  at 
Napk^s  and  Milan  may  vie  with  any  in  the  woild,  as  to  ele- 
gance of  form,  and  beauty  of  design.  The  mosaic  manufactory 
at  Home,  and  that  of  tortoisr  shell  and  musical  strings  at  Na- 
ples, may  also  be  noticed,  as  both  of  them  are  distingnished  for 
their  superiority.  Naples  excels  also  in  works  of  eniliroidery, 
in  confections  and  iKpieuis,  The  velvets  and  damasks  of 
Genoa  and  Venice  still  preserve  their  ancient  rejiutation,  and 
rich  silk  stulls  ;ire  maiudactMred  to  a  considerable  extent  in 
Lucca,  Florence,  and  Milan.* 

Thf.  rfttahlis/iifj  Cutholic  nr  liomish  Jailh  and  worship,  J)re- 
vaiLs  exclusivt-ly  over  all  Italy;  and  nowhere  is  its  authority 
and  jurisdiction  more  complete.  Over  this  church  «if  Italy  th«j 
I'ope  |)resides  as  primate,  with  the  same  pri-ro^atives  which 
accompany  that  title  and  i^ation  in  other  cQuntries.  But  be- 
sides the  peculiar  office  w  hich  merely  ex|)resses  his  relation 
to  the  Italian  ecclesiastical  consitution.  he  is  also  the  chief 
pastor  of  the  Catholic  church  over  the  whole  world  ;  and  thus 
possesses,  in  the  opinion  of  that  church,  a  spiritual  sujuema- 
cy  and  inlluence  in  every  country  where  any  portion  of  it  ex- 

♦  Ntw  r.ilioljurgh  Encyclopedia. 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  289 

RELIGION — POPE. 

ists.  In  this  character,  he  is  regarded  not  only  as  bishop  of 
Rome,  metropolitan,  and  primate  of  Italy,  Sicily,  &c.,  and  a 
patriarch  of  the  West,  enjoying  all  the  privileges,  and  claim- 
ing all  the  control  of  other  bishops,  primates,  or  patriarchs, 
in  their  respective  districts ;  but  also  as  the  successor  of  St. 
Peter,  sitting  as  the  first  pastor  of  the  Catholic  church,  by 
divine  right  and  appointment,  and  holding  the  primacy  of 
honor  and  jurisdiction  of  the  whole  Christian  church.  To 
refuse  hiin  this  name  and  honor,  is  deemed  an  act  of  spiritual 
rebellion ;  but,  at  the  same  time,  the  precise  rights  and  prerog- 
atives connected  with  it,  have  never  yet  been  defined,  and  the 
exertions  of  pontifical  power  in  general  are  regarded,  at  least 
by  modern  Catholics,  as  only  of  human  institution,  which  it 
would  be  neither  heresy  nor  schism  to  resist. 

The  Pope,  while  he  is  head  of  the  church  of  Italy  and  bish- 
op of  Rome,  is,  at  the  same  time,  a  temporal  prince,  and 
sovereign  of  a  considerable  portion  of  the  country;  it  is  nev- 
ertheless to  the  former  of  these  characters,  that  his  dress, 
titles,  equipage,  &c.,  are  adapted;  and  in  his  own  court,  he  is 
exclusively  addressed  by  the  appellation  of  Holiness,  or  Holy 
Father.  His  robes  resemble  those  of  a  bishop  in  pontificals, 
exce])ting  the  stole  and  colom,  which  is  white  instead  of  pur- 
ple. His  vestments,  when  he  officiates  in  church,  do  not  differ 
from  those  of  other  prelates,  and  it  i.s  only  on  extraordinary 
occasions  that  he  wears  the  "  tiara,"  or  triple  crown.  Both  in 
public  and  private,  he  is  encircled  with  all  the  forms  of  ma- 
jesty, and  approached  with  the  greatest  reverence.  A  prelate 
in  full  robes  is  always  in  waiting  in  his  ante-chamber ;  and 
when  the  apartment  opens,  he  is  seen  sitting  in  a  chair  of 
state,  with  a  small  table  before  him.  The  person  who  is  in- 
troduced to  this  presence-chamber,  kneels  first  on  the  thresh- 
old, agiiin  in  the  middle  of  the  room,  and  lastly  at  the  feetof  the 
pontiff,  where  he  is  allowed  to  kiss  the  cross  embroidered  on  his 
shoes,  or  is  raised  by  his  hand,  and  after  conversing  a  short 
time,  commonly  receives  a  slight  present  of  beads,  or  medals, 
as  a  memoj'ial,  and  then  retires  with  the  same  ceremonies  of 
kneeling.  In  public,  a  large  elevated  silver  cross  is  carried 
before  his  holiness  as  a  sacred  banner,  the  church  bells  ring 
as  he  paeses,  and  all  men  kneel  in  his  sight.  His  whole  life  is 
spent  in  ceremony  and  restraint;  and  no  dignity  is  more  cum- 
bersome and  continued  than  that  under  which  he  is  placed. 

The  college  of  Cardinals  form  the  council  of  the  Pontiff  and 
the  senate  of  modern  Rome  ;  and  are  also  the  officers  of  state, 
intrusted  with  the  management  of  the  church  at  large,  and  of 
the  Roman  territories  in  particular.  They  are  seventy-two  in 
number,  including  the  six  suburban  bishops  ;  but  some  of  the 
hats  being  generalh'^  kept  in  reserve  in  case  of  any  emergency, 
the  number  is  seldom  full.  All  the  Catholic  powers  are  al- 
lowed to  recommend  a  certain  number;  but  the  nomination 
rests  solely  with  the  Pope.  Their  grand  assembly  is  called 
the  Consistory,  where  they  appear  in  all  their  splendor,  and 
25 


290  UNIVERSAL  TIIAVELLER. 


ITALY. 


the  Pope  presides  in  person ;  but  less  for  the  purjiose  of  dis- 
cussinii  than  witnessinsr  the  r.-itifKation  of  measures  aheady 
adoptetl  in  the  cal)inet  of  tl)t>  rontiff.  Their  princijial  pre- 
rogative is  ('xercised  in  the  conclave,  where  they  are  conlined 
within  the  Vatican  palace,  till  they  agree  in  the  election  of  a 
Pope. 

All  the  £rreat  cities,  and  some  even  of  a  secondarj'  rate, 
hav(>  nrc/ihi.s/idps ;  while  almost  evory  town,  especially  if  it  be 
of  ancient  name,  is  the  see  of  a  bishop;  a  circumstance  which 
confirms  the  fact  that  primitive  bishops  were  more  like  the 
first  ministers  of  a  jiarish  than  a  diocesan.  Besides  the  ca- 
thedrals, there  are  several  collegiate  churches,  which  have 
their  deans  and  chapters.  Every  bishop  has  his  diocesan  col- 
lege for  the  purpose  only  of  ecclesiastical  education;  in  this 
seminary,  under  his  own  inspection,  with  the  assistance  of  a 
few  of  liis  mor*^  emiurnt  clergy,  the  candidates  for  orders  in 
the  diocess  ujust  attend  three  years  in  a  course  of  prepara- 
tion for  their  clerical  functions — which  course  consists  in 
hearing  lectures  on  the  scriptures,  and  the  scholastic  systems 
of  (Allies  and  theology. 

The  paror/iiat  r/<»rry  are  numerous;  pluralities  are  never 
allowed;  and  residence  is  strictly  enforced.  These  regular 
clergy  are  described  as  generally  exemplary  and  active  in  the 
disciiarge  of  their  duties;  but  though  their  nuudier  has  been 
consideiably  diminished  by  the  alienation  of  church  pro])erty 
during  the  French  domination,  the)'  are  acknowledged  to  be 
still  too  ntmieroTis,  esjiecially  the  lower  ord(>rs  of  them. 

The  irrrcTjiif/y  rlert'ij,  so  callinl  (mm  taking  Ujxm  themselves 
certain  rules  and  statutes  not  connected  with  the  clerical  pro- 
fession, are  still  more  nMFr>erous,  and  exhibit  a  great  variety  of 
costumes.  They  may  be  divided  into  two  great  classes,  viz. 
vinnlxK  -AUi]  friarif.  \\  lio  are  boinid  by  the  three  vows  of  poverty, 
chastity,  and  obedience,  but  who  live  under  very  diflerent  reg- 
ulations. The  ?«t>)//r,«,  under  various  appellations,  follow  al- 
mo.st  universally  llie  rule  of  St.  r5enedi<t,  which  is  rather  a 
treatise  of  morals,  than  a  set  of  statutes.  To  the  monks  may  be 
added  tlie  canons  regular,  who  take  upon  themselves  the  life 
and  engagement  of  a  convent,  while  they  bear  the  dress  and 
discharge  the  duties  of  ordinarj'  prebendaries.  These  are  all 
supported  by  a  regular  settled  income,  which  contribut<\s  much 
to  their  general  respectabdity.  and  dii-tinguishes  them  from 
the  mendicants  or  friars.  This  second  class  of  irregular 
clergy  subsist  upon  alms  and  doi\atinns.  and  constitute  a  mul- 
titudinous and  various  body.  They  have  many  diflerent  sub- 
divisions, dresses,  anri  observances;  but  the  most  prevalent 
are  the  Franciscans,  Dominicans,  (Jarmelites,  and  Angustines. 
Thoy  were  all  intended  to  act  as  assistants  tothe  clergy  in  their 
parochial  duties;  but  the  auxiliaries  have  become  the  most 
jmmerous,  aud  have  encroached  upon  the  prerogatives  of  the 
main  body.* 

♦  New  Edinburgh  Kncyclopcdia. 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  291 


REMARKABLE  PLACES. 


Almost  every  considerable  place  in  Italy  is  marked  by  some 
circumstance  in  its  natural  features,  or  by  some  achievement 
or  event  in  its  history,  which  connects  it  in  the  minds  of  schol- 
ars with  the  most  delightful  associations.  Amon^j:  these  lo- 
calities, are  the  follov/ing,  which  we  group  together  without 
any  particular  order: 

Rome,  built  on  seven  hills,  was  thb  great  city  of  Italy  and 
the  Romans.  Here  was  the  beginning  of  this  celebrated  peo^ 
pie.  The  city  was  small  and  mean  at  first,  but  in  the  course 
of  ages  became  magnificent  beyond  conception,  and  the  em- 
porium of  the  civilized  world.  Andes,  near  Mantua,  was  the 
birthplace  of  Virgil;  Comum,  that  of  the  younger  Pliny;  Ve- 
rona, of  Catullus;  and  Patavium,  of  Livy.  Ravenna  was  the 
residence  of  the  emperors  of  the  west  when  driven  from  Rome. 
The  river  Po  is  famous  for  the  death  of  Phajton,  who,  as  the 
poets  mention,  was  thrown  down  into  it  by  the  thunderbolts 
of  .Jupiter. 

Padusa,  one  of  the  mouths  of  the  Po,  was  said  to  abound  in 
swans.  Rubicon  was  a  mountain  torrent  which  it  was  for- 
bidden to  pass  with  an  armedf  >rce,  with  dreadful  imprecations. 
The  inhabitants  of  Etn'aria  were  famous  for  their  skill  in  augu- 
ry, early  civilization,  and  resolution,  and  were  conqaered  by 
Ihe  Romans  only  after  much  bloodshed.  Circeii  was  the  res- 
idence of  the  fabled  enchantress,  Circe.  Tusculum  was  the 
villa  of  Cicero.  Capua  was  celebrated  for  its  wealth,  voluptu- 
ousne'ss,  and  soft  climate.  Near  the  promontory  of  Cuma  was 
the  residence  of  the  Sybil.  At  Nola,  east  of  Naples,  bells  were 
first  invented.  The  eruption  of  Vesuvius  A.  D.  79  overwhelm- 
ed the  cities  of  Pompeii,  Herculaneum,  and  Stabise,  and  de- 
stroyed the  life  of  Pliny. 

The  cily  of  Arpi  was  founded  by  Diomedes.  Venvisia  was 
the  birthplace  of  Horace.  The  country  of  Apulia  was  cele- 
brated for  its  wool.  Brundusium  was  the  port  for  passing 
from  Italy  to  Greece.  Rudiae  was  the  birthplace  of  Ennius. 
Tarentum  was  founded  by  the  Lacedaemonians.  Poestum,  in 
Lucania,  was  famous  for  its  roses.  On  the  coast  was  Me- 
tapontum,  the  school  of  Pythagoras.  Thurium  was  also  called 
Sybaris,  from  the  effeminacy  of  its  inhabitants.  Petilia  was 
•built  by  Philoctetes,  after  the  Trojan  war. 

Sicily  was  famous  in  antiquity  for  the  birth  of  Ceres,  the 
rape  of  Proserpine,  the  giant  Enceladus,  mount  Etna,  and  the 
Cyclops,  with  the  whirlpool  Charybdis,  opposite  to  Scjdia  on 
the  Italian  coast,  objects  of  terror  to  mariners.  Sicily  was 
the  storehouse  of  Italy.  Mount  Eryx  was  celebrated  for  its 
temple  of  Venus.  The  plains  of  Enna,  where  Proserpine 
was  carried  away  by  Pluto,  abounded  in  honey.  Lipara 
was  famous  for  its  fruit;  its  raisins  are  still  in  high  repute. 
Vulcan  had  forges  here.  Sardinia  was  called  by  the  Greeks, 
Ichnusa,  from  its  resemblance  to  the  print  of  a  foot.  It  was 
famous  for  wormwood  and  bitter  herbs,  and  its  air  was  un- 
wholesome.   Corsica  was  celebrated  for  its  box  and  yew-trees. 


292  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 


GREECE. 


Urcinium,  founded  by  a  son  ofAjax,  is  now  Ajaccio,  and  cel- 
ebrated in  modern  times  as  the  birtliplace  of  Napoleon  Bo 
naparte. 


8.  GREECE. 

Tke  modern  Greeks  bear,  it  is  thouuht,  a  striking  rei^emhlance 
to  the  descriptions  which  have  been  transmitted  of  the  ancient 
inhabitants  of  the  country,  in  their  bodilj'^  apjiearance,  dress, 
diet,  and  tempers.  There  is  a  national  likenc^ss  observable 
amontr  them  all,  but  tiie  islanders  are  of  a  darker  complexion, 
and  a  stronjrer  make  than  those  of  tiie  main  land.  Their  coun- 
tenances are  such  as  may  be  supposed  to  have  served  for 
models  to  their  ancient  sculptors;  and  the  younp;  men  partic- 
ularly are  distintruished  by  a  decree  of  beauty  wiiich  would  be 
considered  as  too  effeminate  among  those  of  the  same  age  in 
more  northern  climates.  Their  eyes  are  large  and  dark, 
their  eyebrows  arched,  their  complexions  brown,  but  clear, 
and  their  cheeks  and  lips  tinged  with  a  bright  vermilion  color. 
Their  faces  are  a  regular  oval,  and  their  leatures  perfectly 
proportioned,  except  that  their  ears  are  rather  larger  than 
usual.  Their  hair  is  dark  and  long,  but  shaved  oflin  the  fore 
part  of  the  crt)wn  and  sides  of  the  face.  Beards  are  worn 
onlj'  by  the  clergy  and  persons  of  authority,  but  all  of  them 
wear  thin,  long,  black  mustaches  on  thtMr  upper  lip.  Their 
necks  are  long.  Init  broad,  and  well  set,  their  chests  wide  and 
open,  their  shoulders  strong.  I)ut  their  waists  rather  slender, 
and  their  legs  large,  but  well  made.  Their  stature  is  al)ove 
the  middle  size,  and  their  form  muscular  and  round,  but  not 
corpulent.  The  women  are  inferior  to  the  men,  both  in  face 
and  figure;  and  though  they  have  the  same  kind  of  features, 
yet  their  eyes  are  languid  and  their  complexions  pale,  their 
whole  persons  loose  and  flaccid,  their  stature  rather  low,  and 
tlieir  forms,  as  they  advance  in  life,  fit  and  unwieldy.  Those 
of  the  better  class  are  very  careful  to  improve  their  l)eauty  by 
paints  and  washes;  but  they  often  lay  on  their  coloring  sub- 
stances to  a  very  unnatural  degree. 

The  character  of  the  modern  Greeks  is  variously  represent- 
ed ;  but  the  greater  number  of  travellers  concur  in  the  princi- 
pal features  of  the  following  portrait.  Their  manners  arq 
very  engaging,  but  have  rather  too  much  the  apjiearance  of 
obsequiousness  and  insincerity.  They  are  extremely  courteous 
towards  inferiors,  and  even  servants,  and  make  very  little  dis- 
tinction in  their  behavior  to  each  other  on  account  of  rank. 
The  rich  are  versatile  and  intriguing;  the  lower  classes  full  of 
merriment,  doing  nothing,  at  certain  seasons,  but  pipe  and 
dance.  There  is  still  abundance;  of  native  genius  among 
them  ;  but  in  the  substantial  parts  of  character  they  are  a  de- 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  293 


CHARACTER — DRESS. 


graded  nation.  They  perform  the  rights  of  hospitality  with 
good  humor  <ind  poUteness,  but  will  resort  to  low  expedients 
to  gain  some  pecuniary  remuneration,  and  will  do  any  thing 
foi-  the  sake  of  money.  Though  avaricious,  they  are  not  sor- 
did, but  fond  of  pomp  and  show,  and  profuse  in  their  ostenta- 
tion of  generosity.  Wealth  is  the  only  object  of  their  admira- 
tion ;  vvlience  they  are  almost  universally  engaged  in  trade  in 
some  form  or  other.  They  are  little  to  be  trusted ;  but  are 
light,  inconstant,  treacherous,  selfish,  and  subtle  in  all  their 
transactions,  always  awake  to  every  opportunity  of  gaining 
an  advantage  ;  ready  to  practise  the  meanest  artifices,  and  to 
litter  the  grossest  untruths  ;  regardless  of  character,  and  more 
barefaced  in  their  impositions  than  even  the  Jews. 

The  character  of  the  Greeks,  has  doubtless,  within  a  few 
j'^ears,  been  improving:  and,  at  length,  released  from  bondage 
to  "  the  hardest,  the  most  ignorant,  and  the  most  bigoted  na- 
tion in  Europe,','  it  is  to  be  expected  that  the  national  charac- 
ter will  rise.  The  patriotism  of  the  Greeks  has  long  been  ad- 
mitted, but  the  fortitude  and  courage  evinced  by  them  during 
their  revolutionary  struggle,  which  commenced  in  1821,  was 
altogether  unlooked  for.  The  spirit  of  liberty  and  indepen- 
dence suddenly  broke  forth  as  the  sun  emerging  from  a  dark 
cloud,  and  exhibited  itself  in  exploits  wortliy  of  the  days  of 
Spartan  valor. 

The  dress  of  the  modern  Greeks  bears  a  near  resemblance 
to  that  of  the  Turks.  The  under  garments  are  a  cotton  shirt, 
cotton  drawers,  a  vest,  and  jacket  of  silk  or  stuff,  a  pair  of 
large  loose  trousers  drawn  up  a  little  above  the  ankle,  and  a 
short  sock.  Over  these  are  worn  large  shawls,  often  richly 
ornamented,  wrapped  round  the  loins,  in  one  corner  of  which 
the  poorer  people  frequently  conceal  their  money,  and  a  loose 
'gown,  or  pelisse,  with  wide  sleeves,  which,  in  the  presence  of  a 
superior,  they  wrap  modestly  about  their  persons,  concealing 
their  hands  with  the  sleeves,  and  resting  their  chins  on  their 
bosoms.  The  wealthy  individuals  have  pelisses  of  cloth  lined 
with  fur  for  winter,  and  wear  purses,  which,  together  with 
handkerchiefs,  watches,  snuff-boxes,  and  papers,  they  carry  in 
their  bosom  between  the  folds  of  the  vests,  and  count  it  a  mark 
of  distinction  to  have  this  part  of  their  dress  full  and  distended. 
They  may  wear  any  color  except  green,  which  is  appropriated 
to  the  descendants  of  Mahomet,  and,  instead  of  a  turban,  they 
have  a  large  calpac.  The  people  seldom  use  a  gown,  and 
liave  their  trousers  so  short  as  to  leave  their  legs  bare  below 
the  knee.  The  sailors  have  nothing  but  a  jacket;  and  in 
summer  wear  tlie  Albanian  scull-cap.  The  dress  of  the  fe- 
males bears  some  resemblance  to  that  of  European  women, 
and  consists  of  a  vest  fitting  close  to  the  bosom,  but  becoming 
larger  and  wider  below  the  waist;  a  gown  flowing  off  loosely 
behind,  with  long  wide  sleeves  turned  up  the  wrists,  a  riband, 
or  rather  girdle,  under  the  bosom,  a  rich  shawl,  as  a  zone 
25* 


294  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

GREECE. 

wrapped  once  round  the  body,  rostin<];  loosely  on  the  hips,  and 
fastened  before  with  a  larfje  plate,  or  titul  with  a  sjireadine 
knot.  The  dress  of  the  richer  females  is  loaded  with  <i;old  and 
silver  trimniinj^s,  bracelets  of  precious  stones,  and  strings  of 
fjold  coiils  round  their  necks.  The  young  women  have  their 
hair  hanging  down  the  hack,  loose  or  platted,  combed  over  the 
forehead  and  the  sides  of  the  cheeks,  and  a  little  red  cap,  with 
a  gold  tassel  studded  with  zequins,  on  the  one  side  of  the 
crown.  When  they  go  abroad,  they  are  mulfled  up  in  a  wrap- 
ping-cloak, with  a  lonir  veil,  but  in  their  private  apartments 
tJiey  have  their  feet  naked,  and  tlieir  bodies  thinly  clothed,  as 
the  temperature  of  the  weather  may  admit.  Their  toe-nails 
and  finger-tops  are  stained  of  a  rosy  color,  and  their  eye- 
lashes with  black.  No  change  as  to  fashion  takes  place  in 
their  dress,  but  their  habits  are  esteemed  entirely  in  jjropor- 
tion  to  the  price  which  they  cdst.  The  most  universal  part  of 
Grecian  dress,  which  is  also  worn  by  all  the  inhabitants  of  the 
Levant,  Mahometans,  or  Christians,  males  or  femnles,  and 
the  sale  of  which  forms  a  principal  article  of  Grecian  com- 
merce, is  the  ancient  Pelasgic  bonnet,  shaped  like  a  scalp, 
which  the  natives  of  Greece  are  said  to  have  worn  ever  since 
tlify  were  known  as  a  people.  The  Greeks  wear  it  simply  as 
a  hat;  tire  Turks  surround  it  with  a  turban;  and  the  women 
adorn  it  with  a  handkerchief,  tassels,  and  fringes. 

Tlie  diet  of  thn  m'ndern  Greeks,  even  in  th^  higher  ranks  of 
society,  is  very  poor  and  comfortless.  Fowls  newly  killed, 
and  therefore  tough,  though  boiled  down  to  rags,  heajjcd  to- 
gether in  a  large  plate,  form  a  principal  dish  at  dinner.  The 
tiible  is  a  low  stool,  and  t!n^  guests  are  seated  roimd  it  on 
cushions.  A  long,  coarse,  navmw  towel,  is  si)read  over  the 
knees  of  the  party  at  table;  and  the  master  of  the  house,  strip- 
j)ing  his  arms  bare,  by  turning  up  the  slee^i'S  of  his  tunic, 
serves  out  the  meat  and  soup,  tearing  ttie  |)onltiy  and  butcher- 
meat  into  pieces  with  his  lingers,  wfiich  the  guests  eat  in  the 
same  styl<'.  If  knives  and  spoons  ai-e  w<,vd^  they  are  nevei" 
changed,  and  one  dish  only  is  placed  on  the  table  at  the  sanre 
time.  Brandy  is  hanchvl  to  the  company  before  they  sit  down 
to  table,  and  a  single*  glass  of  win<'  is  present(>d  to  each  along 
with  the  dessert,  louring  the  timeof  dinm-r  the  room  is  tilled 
with  a  multitude  of  visiters,  nieaui>r  dependants,  and  evtMi 
slaves,  who  do  not  partake  of  the  rejiast,  but  sit  and  converse 
together  behiufi  the  party  at  table;  and  after  dimier  an  itiner- 
nnt  songster  j)Uslies  thr.ough  the  crowd  to  a  conspicuous  place 
in  the  apartment,  and  accompanies  with  his  lyre  some  miser- 
able recitative,  suited  to  the  occasion,  or  some  common  love- 
ditty,  repeated  again  and  again,  with  little  melody  or  expres- 
sion. When  the  meal  is  concluded,  a  maidservant  sweeps 
the  carpet;  and  the  master  and  mistress  of  the  house,  seating 
themselves  at  the  upper  end  of  the  divan  or  couch,  the  rest  of 
the  company  are  marshalled  on  either  side  in  two  lines,  ac- 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  295 


DANCING — MUSIC. 


cording  to  the  rules  of  precedence.  When  all  are  thus  seated 
cross-legged,  a  little  pewter  basin  is  placed  before  each  person 
who  has  partaken  of  the  nleal,  and  a^l  wash  their  hands  and 
mouth  with  a  lather  of  soap;  the  same  having  been  done 
also  before  eating.  Tobacco  pipes  are  then  brought  in,  and 
female  visitants  arriving,  the  mistress  of  the  hotlse  retires  with 
tlie  women  who  are  present,  to  receive  these  new  guests  in 
another  apartment. 

Dancing  is  a  universal  accomplishment,  and  is  learned  froiift 
one  another  in  a  style  which  displays  neither  elegance  nor 
liveliness,  and  which  chiefly  consists  in  a  solemn  poising  of 
the  body  on  one  foot,  then  on  the  other,  accompanied  with 
various  elevations  and  depressions  of  the  arms.  But,  not- 
withstanding their  want  of  education,  most  of  them  are  ac- 
quainted with  a  number  of  songs  or  recitations,  accompanied 
with  tales;  which  are  taken  up  and  continued,  apparently  with- 
out end,  by  different  individuals  of  the  party  for  hours  togeth- 
er. Whenever  they  have  an  opportunity  of  making  farther  at- 
tainments, they  discover  great  quickness  of  understanding, 
and  readily  acquire  the  modern  languages,  and  the  elements 
of  general  literature.  Their  charactei-  is  described  as  amiable, 
and  they  make  assiduous  housewives  and  tender  mothers. 

The  dancer  of  the  young  -v^^omen,  particularly  those  called 
Romaica,  consist  in  slow  movements,  in  which  they  hold  by 
each  other's  handkerchiefs,  while  one  of  them,  as  a  leader; 
sets  the  step  and  the  time.  In  their  mixed  dances,  a  male  and 
female  are  alternately  linked  together,  holding  their  handker- 
chiefs high  over  their  heads,  while  the  leader  dances  through 
them ;  and  various  figures  are  performed,  as  well  as  single 
hornpipes.  Single  performers  among  the  men  exhibit  fre- 
quently a  rapid  fantastic  step,  which  is  considered  as  the  an- 
cient pyrrhic  dance.  To  such  amusements  the  natives  are 
greatly  devoted ;  and  "  amidst  all  IksiY  poverty  and  oppres- 
sion,"" says  Sandys,  "they  will  dance  whilst  their  legs  will 
bear  them,  and  sing  till  they  grow  hoarse."  There  is  an  an- 
cient dance,  much  in  request,  performed  by  boys  or  by  girls,  in 
the  harems,'  for  the  entertainment  of  the  Turks,  and  which  is 
Wholly  of  a  lascivious  tendency.  Nay,  in  most  parts  of  mod- 
ern Greece,  these  indecent  attitudes,  which  are  esteemed  as  the 
highest  accomplishment  of  the  art,  are  practised  by  the- most 
discreet  females,  without  any  appearance  of  depraved  feelings 
bn  their  part. 

The  Greek  music  is  plaintive,  biit  very  monotonous ;  and  it 
is  doubtful  whether  most  of  their  airs  may  not  be  of  modern 
origin.  They  sing  through  the  nose,  and  in  a  confused  man- 
ner, men  and  women  all  joining  tdgether.  Of  many  tunes 
borrowed  from  the  French  and  Italian,  it  is  said  they  never 
go  beyond  the  first  part.  They  have  an  admirable  kyrie  elei- 
Mon,  says  Chateaubriand.     It  is  biit  one  note,  kept  up  by  dif- 


296  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

OBECCE. 


ferent  voices,  some  bass  and  some  treble,  executing  andante 
and  mczza  race,  the  octave,  tlie  fifth,  and  the  tliird.  The  sol- 
emn and  majestic  eflect  of  this  kijrie  is  suiprisint;.  It  is 
doubtless  a  relic  of  the  ancient  sintrinir  of  the  primitive  church. 
The  fiddle  and  lyre,  or  three-strine:ed  guitar,  are  the  usual  in- 
struments upon  which  most  of  the  yomig  men,  and  particu- 
larly the  sailors,  are  al)le  to  perform.  Pan's  i)ipe,  ancl  a  kind 
of  bagpipe,  are  also  m»*t  with  in  (he  Levant.  Modern  travel- 
lers give  a  ver)'  unfavorable  account  of  the  general  strain  of 
music  in  Greece; — Dr.  Clarke,  particularly,  represents  it  as 
inferior  to  that  of  any  other  FiUro))ean  nation,  except  the  very 
lowest  in  point  of  civilization  and  refinement.  "'The  tone  of 
the  vocal  part,"  he  says  of  ft  certain  performer,  "res^mbletl 
rather  the  howling  of  dogs  through  the  night,  than  any  sound 
which  might  be  called  nmsical.  And  this  was  the  im^)re6sion 
made  upon  us  everywhere  l)y  the  national  music  of  the  mod- 
ern Greeks,  that  if  a  scale  were  formed  for  comparing  it  with 
the  state  of  music  in  other  European  nations,  it  would  fall  1)p- 
low  every  f>ther,  excepting  only  that  of  tiie  Laplanders,  to 
which,  nevertheless,  it  bears  sOme  resemblance." 

There  is  cnnftifltn~nh!i'  refsenthlavce  in  the  d^tyctrines  and  gene- 
ral foim  (if  the  iifrrk  chunh,  and  those  of  the  church  of 
Rome.  In  the  number  of  the  sacraments;,  the  invocation  of 
saints,  the  belief  of  the  real  presence,  tiie  practise  of  auricular 
confession,  the  offering  of  masses  for  the  dead,  the  division 
of  the  clergy  into  regular  and  secular,  the  spiritual  jurisdiction 
of  the  bislifips  and  their  oflieials,  the  distinction  of  ranks  and 
offices  among  the  ecclesiastics,  there  is- very  little  difference 
between  the  churches  of  Greece  and  Home. 

The  rites  of  the  Gret^k  church  are  in  themselves  very  ab- 
surd, and  are  performrMl  with  very  little  solemnity.  Th(>re 
are  prayers  and  portions  of  scripture,  histories  of  the  saints, 
hymns,  and  forms  for  different  festivals  ;  but  the  service  con- 
sists |irincipally  in  singing  without  musical  instruments.  In  the 
celebration  of  the  mass,  the  chief  pait  of  the  worsiiip  consists 
in  crossing  and  repeating  a  thousand  times,  in  a  combined 
song,  the  words.  "I.ord,  have  mercy  upi>n  me."  I'ictures  are 
admitted  into  the  (  hurches;  and  gri-at  attention  paid  to  the 
form  and  color  of  the  cteiical  vestments.  Their  festivals  are 
very  numerou.s,  which  the  people  are  strictly  enjoined  to  ob- 
serve: and  as  most  of  them  are  celebrated  by  dancing  and 
music,  they  are  the  threat  deliglit  of  the  frivolous  natives.  The 
sacrament  of  the  eucharist  is  administered  to  new-born  infants 
and  that  of  extreme  imclion  is  not  confined  to  the  dying,  but 
is  given  to  devout  persons  upon  the  .slightest  malady,  and  even 
to  tho.se  who  are  in  full  health,  by  way  of  anticipation.  The 
laity  are  devoutly  attached  to  all  the  cvremonies  and  ordinan- 
ces of  their  church,  which  are  numerous  and  s(.'vere.  Wed- 
nesdays and  Fridays  are  perpetual  days  of  fasting;  aixl  some 
of  the  i)rincipal  fasts  continue  forty  days;  so  that  there  are 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  297 


MARRIAGE   CEREMONY. 


hot  above  139  days  of  the  year  free  from  fasts.  They  are  de- 
v^oted  to  superstitions  which  occupy  their  minds  infinitely  more 
than  the  great  point  of  their  faith.  The  priests  are  frequently- 
employed  to  exorcise  persons  supposed  to  be  possessed  of  evil 
spirits.  They  all  believe  in  the  power  of  magic,  and  often 
fancy  themselves  to  be  suffering  from  the  incantations  of 
some  malevolent  being.  Ghosts  or  fairies,  called  Arabins,  are 
imagined  to  haunt  houses  and  other  places.  They  believe  in 
the  occasional  appearance  of  angels  to  make  particular  rev- 
elations. Thev  are  all  devoted  to  the  worship  of  the  holy 
Virgin  ;  and  in  almost  every  cottage,  her  picture  or  image  is  to 
be  seen,  with  a  lamp  burning  before  it.  Almost  all  diseases  are 
considered  as  the  effects  of  demoniacal  influence;  and  the 
plague,  particularly,  is  thought  to  appear  in  the  form  of  a  lame 
and  withered  hag. 

The  churches  "in  Greece  have  great  simplicity;  and  are 
generally  very  small.  The  floor  is  of  mud,  the  altar  of  stone, 
the  sanctuary  separated  from  the  nave  by  deal  boards,  and  an 
enclosure  of  pales  at  the  other  end  made  for  the  women.  They 
are  seldom  furnished  with  seats;  here  there  are  several  crutch- 
es in  one  corner,  upon  which  the  aged  worshippers  support 
themselves.  In  the  great:^r  towns,  and  in  some  of  the  monas- 
teries they  are  fitted  up  in  a  better  style,  but  in  a  bad  taste,  or- 
namented with  irildings  and  pictures  of  saints. 

In  this  connexion  it  may  be  added,  that  the  Greeks  are  full 
of  superstitious  practices  and  unmeaning  usaii;es.  During  the 
birth  of  a  child,  the  lamp  burns  be-fore  the  picture  of  the  Vir- 
gin, and  the  cradle  is  adorned  witli  handkerchiefs  and  trin- 
kets, as  presents  to  the  fairies.  As  soon  as  the  infant  is  laid 
in  the  cradle,  it  is  loaded  with  amulets;  and  a  bit  of  soft  mud, 
particularly  prepared  by  various  charms,  is  stuck  upon  the 
forehead,  to  prevent  the  effects  of  the  evil  eye.  When  a 
stranger  looks  intensely  upon  a  child,  the  mother  spits  in  its 
face,  or  in  her  own  bosom,  if  he  looks  at  herself;  but  the  sov- 
ereign remedy  against  the  evil  eye  is  the  use  of  garlic,  or 
even  the  pronouncing  the  name  of  it,  and  bunches  of  it  are  at- 
tached to  new-built  houses  and  vessels.  When  a  person 
sneezes  in  company,. the  conversation  is  stopped,  and  all  pres- 
ent pronounce  benedictions  on  him,  at  the  same  time  crossing 
themselves.  They  wear  rings  as  spells;  observe  all  manner 
of  lucky  and  unlucky  .days;  spit  into  their  own  bosoms  upon 
any  sudden  emergency;  show  a  peculiar  veneration  for  salt, 
and  practise  a  m'ultitude  of  divining  ceremonies  on  all  oc- 
casions. 

In  the  m.arriage  ceremony,  which  is  considered  as  still  re- 
sembling the  ancient  usages,  the  bride  and  the  bridegroom 
stand  near  the  altar,  holding  a  lighted  candle  in  their  hands, 
while  the  priest,  facing  them,  reads  and  sings  a  service,  durr 
ing  the  progress  of  which  he  takes  two  rings,  which  he  puts 
upon  their  fingers,  and  two  garlands  which  he  places  on  their 


298  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

EUROPEAN    TURKEY. 

heads,  chanjring  thorn  several  times  with  preat  rapidity,  pab- 
bling  and  siii<:5ino;  all  the  time,  till  at  last  the  rinfi;s  are  idt  on  the 
proper  finc;<Ms,  and  the  c;arlands  laid  aside  to<ji;ether.  Some 
bread,  which  has  been  blessed  arul  marked  with  the  si!;;n  of  the 
cross,  is  then  broken  and  eaten  by  the  bride  and  bridegroom, 
and  a  cup  of  wine  is  presented  to  them  successively;  after 
which  the  woman  hands  round  the  cake  and  liquor  to  the  per- 
sons i)resent,  from  wliom,  if  she  is  not  of  hie;h  rank,  she  re- 
ceives a  piece  of  money,  and  kisses  ttieir  hands  in  return.  On 
the  same,  or  sometinu-s  the  followinir  day,  she  is  carried  in 
procession  to  her  husband's  house,  and  the  evciiinir  is  conclu- 
ded with  music,  dancing,  and  a  feast,  chielly  of  fruits,  and 
particularly  nuts. 

The  funerals  of  the  Gj-eeks,  like  those  of  their  ancestors,  are 
celebrated  as  occasions  for  various  entfrhtinnienls,  and,  in 
some  respects,  bear  a  considerable  lesemblance  to  those  of 
the  lower  Irish.  On  the  death  of  any  person  of  diernity,  the 
body  is  dressed  in  a  rich  'Jiarmcnf.  and  the  litter  covered  with 
flowers.  The  friends  and  domestics,  with  the  priests,  walk  in 
procession  before  the  body,  and  a  fcw  old  women,  on  each 
side  of  the  bier,  continue  howling  and  lamenting,  enumerating 
the  virtues  of  the  deceased,  and  dwelling  on  tiie  many  reasons 
which  should  have  made  him  remain  longer  in  life.  Behind 
the  body  come  the  female  relations  and  friends,  muffled  up  in 
mourning  habits.  At  the  place  of  interment  a  funeral  ser- 
vice is  read,  and  the  body,  rolled  in  a  winding-sheet,  is  de- 
posited in  the  grave  with  some  of  the  flowers  that  had 
adorned  the  bier.  About  the  ninth  day  after  the  funeral,  a 
feast  is  prepared  by  the  nearest  relation,  who  makes  presents 
to  the  priests,  and  entertains  the  guests  with  music,  dancing, 
and  every  kind  of  merriment.  The  buryinggrounds  are  at 
a  distance  fiom  the  towns,  and  the  churclus  are  generally 
near  the  high  road.  Groves  of  cypress  or  yew  trees  generally 
surround  th«»  tombs  ;  imd  these  spots  are  frerpiented  on  cer- 
tain days  by  the  relatives  of  the  recent  dead,  \\\\o,  alter  shed- 
ding a  few  tears,  and  depositing  a  garland,  or  lock  of  hair, 
in  the  grave,  spend  the  remainder  of  the  day  in  dancing  and 
singing.* 


9.  EUROPEA.\  TURKEY. 

//)  fhrir  pi'ritnns  Ihr  Tnrlcs  are  generally  stout,  well  made,  and 
robust;  their  complexions  are  naturally  fair  and  their  features 
liandsome.  Dr.  Ma<iden  pronounct-s  them,  "physically  speak- 
ing, to  be  the  finest  animals,  and  indeed  excelling  all  Europeans 
in  bodily  vigor  as  well  as  beauty."     Their  hair  is  of  a  dark  au- 

•  New  Kdinbur^h  Encyclopedia. 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  299 

TURKISH  CHARACTER. 

burn  or  chestnut,  sometimes  black,  of  which  last  color  are  the 
eyes.  The  females  are  well  proportioned,  and  inclined  to  cor- 
pulency ;  whilst  3^oung,  they  are  beautiful ;  but  they  look  old  at 
thirty. 

These  people  are  habitually  grave  and  indolent;  and  require 
strong  excitements  to  rouse  them  to  action  ;  but  they  are  easi- 
ly provoked,  and  then  they  become  furious  and  uncontrollable. 
In  religious  matters  they  are  tenacious,  superstitious,  and  mo- 
rose. They  are  full  of  dissimulation,  suspicion,  and  jealousy  ; 
and  will  even  abandon  their  avarice  to  gratify  their  revenge. 
Accustomed  to  an  abstemious  life,  and  early  inured  to  hard- 
ships, the  inferior  classes  are  well  fitted  for  the  fatigues  and 
hardships  of  war.  Every  Turk  considers  himself  by  birth  a 
soldier  ;  and  only  in  the  camp  can  he  be  said  to  live.  In  the 
pomp,  the  noise,  the  glitter  of  war,  he  delights  ;  in  the  hour  of 
actual  battle,  he  is  all  energy;  but  the  incessant  fatigue  of  the 
field  soon  disheartens  him. 

When  speaking  of  the  Turkish  character.  Dr.  Madden  says: 
"  In  my  medical  relations  with  them,  I  had  much  to  admire, 
and  a  great  deal  to  condemn.  I  found  them  charitable  to  the 
poor,  attentive  to  the  sick,  and  kind  to  their  domestics;  but  I 
also  found  them  perfidious  to  their  friends,  treacherous  to  their 
enemies,  and  thankless  to  their  benefactors.  Eight  cases  of 
poisoning  have  fallen  under  my  observation  ah'eady ;  five  of 
these  victims  I  attended,  ahd  in  every  case  the  fatal  dose  did 
its  deadly  business  within  eight-and-forty  hours,  but  in  most 
instances  within  twelve.  The  nature  of  the  poison  I  cannot 
speak  of  witii  certainty;  from  its  being  tasteless  in  the  coffee, 
which  is  commonly  made  its  vehicle,  it  can  neither  be  opium, 
nor  corrosive  sublimate;  but,  from  the  symptoms  it  produces, 
I  believed  it  to  be  arsenic.  Of  all  things  in  Turkey,  human 
life  is  of  the  least  value,  and  of  all  the  roads  to  honor  and  am- 
bition, murder  is  deemed  the  most  secure.  I  sat  beside  a  Can- 
diote  Turk  at  dinner,  who  boasted  of  having  killed  eleven  men 
in  cold  blood  ;  and  the  society  of  this  assassin  was  courted  by 
the  cousin  of  the  Reis  effeiuli,  at  whose  house  1  met  him,  be- 
cause '  he  v.'as  a  man  of"  courage.'  I  attended  the  harem  of  a 
rich  Ule'rna,  a  man  of  the  law,  and  of  the  religion,  whose  fe- 
male slave  was  incapacitated  for  drudgery.  He  proposed 
sending  for  one  of  the  Jewish  women,  who  followed  the  av^oca- 
tion  of  infanticide,  and  who  are  consulted  not  only  by  the 
Turks,  but  also  by  the  most  respectable  of  Levantines.  I  of 
course  declined  a  consultation  with  a  privileged  murde)"ess, 
and  represented  the  evil  consequences  arising  fiom  such  prac- 
tices. In  short,  one  of  the  most  deplorable  eifects  of  despotism 
is,  the  little  value  it  causes  the  people  to  set  on  human  life.  I 
do  not  imagine  they  are  wantonly  cruel;  but  a  government 
which  overwhelms  without  punishing — which  visits  crime  with 
the  hand  of  vengeance,  and  not  of  justice, — which  inflicts 
death,  not  for  example,  but  for  the  sake  of  getting  rid  of  the 


300  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 


EIJHOI'EAN    TURKEY. 


offender, — and  whose  fanaticism  makes  a  merit  of  shedding 
blood, — such  a  government,  1  say,  must  deprave  the  hearts  of 
the  people,  and  render  tiiem  sanguinary  and  atrocious. 

"  The  Turks  are  generally  considered  to  be  honester  than 
the  Greeks,  and  in  p()int  offact  they  are,  or  at  least  appear  so; 
they  are  certainly  less  mendacious,  and  are  too  clumsy  to 
practice  chicanery  to  advantage.  Their  probity,  however, 
depends  not  on  any  moral  repugnance  to  deceit,  but  solely  on 
the  want  of  talent  to  deceive.  1  never  found  a  Turk  who  kept 
his  word,  when  it  was  his  interest  to  break  it ;  but  then  1  never 
knew  a  Greek,  who  was  not  unnecessarily  and  habitually  a 
liar.  He  is  subtle  in  spirit,  insidious  in  discourse,  p]ausil)le  in 
his  manner,  and  indefati<iable  in  dishonesty  ;  lie  is  an  accom- 
j)lished  scoundrel  J  and  beside  him,  the  Turk,  with  all  the  de- 
sire to  defraud,  is  so  franrhe  in  knavery,  that,  to  avoid  detec- 
tion, he  is  constrained  to  be  honest." 

tSi)nirl/n'iiir  fitrlher  may  be  Ji'drufil  of  the  7^iirkis-/t  character, 
as  well  as  of  the  manners  and  customs  of  this  people,  from  an 
account  of  their /la/ems.  Tlie  term  harem  is  used  to  distin- 
guish sucli  apartments  as  are  allotted  to  women.  The  word 
signilies  a  secret  retreat,  and  also  the  female  part  of  a  Turk- 
ish faniily  being  collected  in  it.  The  author  whom  we  have 
already  quoted,  enjoyed  a  |)ec;uli:irly  fivoral)le  ojiportunity, 
from  his  profession,  to  witiu'ss  the  interior  of  these  well  guard- 
ed retreats. 

He  says,  "on  my  first  visit  to  a  harem,  the  inmates  were  al- 
ways veiled,  and  the  pulse  was  even  to  be  felt  through  the 
medium  of  a  |)iece  of  gauze;  but,  subsequently,  whetlu-r  I  in- 
spired conlidt'iice  by  sedateiiess,  or  deference  to  my  orders  by 
tirmness  of  manner,  1  knr)W  not,  l)ut  my  fair  patients  usually 
submitted  to  inspection  with  a  good  grace,  and,  in  the  al)sence 
of  the  husband,  even  laughed  and  jested  in  my  presence. 
.Some,  who  callerl  me  *dou:'  at  the  (irst  interview,  and  did 
every  thing  but  spit  upon  me,  became  fimilianx.ed  with  the 
j)re.sence  of  an  inlidel,  and  often  made  mo  j)resents  of  embroi- 
dered handkerchiefs  and  purses.  They  asked  me  the  most 
ridiculous  (juestions  about  the  women  of  my  country,  'if  they 
were  suffered  to  go  abroad  without  a  eimuch  ;  if  they  could 
love  men  wh(»  wore  hats;  if  we  drowned  them  often  ;  if  they 
went  to  the  bath  every  week;  if  they  nullied  or  washed  their 
elbows;  if  I  was  m.irried,  arxl  hosv  many  wives  I  had;'  and 
sometimes  the  husband  was  even  present  at  the  conversation, 
and  condescended  to  laugh  with  pity,  when  he  heard  that 
English  ladies  walked  unveiled,  and  that  it  was  unusual  to  have 
more  than  one  at  a  time  f  )r  a  wife.  I'ut  what  seemed  to  cre- 
ate the  greatest  horror  of  all,  was  the  disuse  of  those  lower 
garments  which  are  indispensaijle  to  Turkish  ladies. 

"  Where  personal  cliarms  are  all  that  make  a  woman  valua- 
ble, it  is  not  to  be  supi)osed  Init  that  every  cure  is  taken  to 
heighten  them ;  cosmetics  are  used  in  abundance ;  tlicy  tinge 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  301 

HAREMS. 


their  eyelids  with  a  metaUic  powder,  which  the  Turks  call  sur- 
me,  and  the  Egyptians  kohol.     They  smear  a  little  ebony  rod 
with  this,  apply  it  to  the  eyelids,  which  they  bring  in  contact, 
and  squeezing  the  rod  between  them,  a  small  black  line  is  left 
on  the  edge  of  either  lid,  which  adds  greatly  to  the  beauty  of 
the  long  eyelashes,  and,  by  its  relievo,  to  the  brilliancy  of  the 
eye.     1  got  into  high  favor  with  a  lady,  by  giving  her  a  substi- 
tute for  the  surme,  which  she  disliked.     My  cosmetic  fjr  the 
eyelids  consisted  of  a  thick  solution  of  India  ink,  with  a  drop 
of  oil  of  roses,  smeared  on  the  ebony  rod,  and  moistened  for 
immediate  use.     The  surme  is  also  used  to  extend  the  arch  of 
the  eyebrow,  not  to  elevate  it;  for  the  Turkish  v/omen  well 
know,  that  the  beauty  of  the  eye,  in  mftst  instances,  depends  on 
its  elongation  :  the  effects  of  these  cosmetics  must  be  observed, 
to  understand  what  adventitious  lustre  can  be  given  to  the  eyes. 
They  also  imbue  their  nails  and  lingers  with  the  juice  ofhenne, 
and  fine  ladies  even  extend  its  application  to  the  toes.     The 
vulgar  frequently  rouge  ;  but  I  have  seldom  seen  fashionable 
women  use  paint,  except  on  their  lips;  various  amulets  are 
w^orji  on  the  neck.     The  sheik  of  the  district  sells  charms  by 
■the  wholesale  ;  one  is  to  keep  off  the  evil  eye,  which  is  always 
to  be  apprehended,  when  a  stranger  extols  the  size  or  strength 
of  their  children  ;  another  to  keep  the  s  hi  tan  or  devil  out  of 
the  house.     A  triangular  paper,  surmounted  with   an  amber 
bead,  is  seldom  omitted,  to  preserve  the  lustre  of  their  eyes  ; 
and  a  little  leathern  bag,  with  the  dust  of  a  dried  mummy,  is  a 
'sovereign  remedy  for  an  inward  bruise.'     But  when  amulets 
fail  to  make  a  lady  fertile,  or  to  increase  her  size  to  the  requi- 
site degree  of  magnitude  and  beaiity,  she  then  has  recourse 
either  to  the  Turkish  barber  or  the  Frank  physician.     I  have 
been  teased  to  death  for  fattening  filters  and  fertilizing  po- 
tions;  I  have  heard  serious  disputes  between  the  slender  and 
the  robust,  the  barren  and  the  prolific  ;  it  is  not  to  be  v/onder- 
ed  at,  for  a  woman  has  no  honor  or  respect  until  she  prove  a 
mother;  and  a  young  wite  has  little  chance  of  eclipsing  the 
competitors   for  her  husband's  favor,  till  she  is  'beautifully 
fat.'     Notwithstanding  the   siss  of   these   woriien,   they   are 
graceful  in  their  movements,  easy,  and  even  elegant  in  their 
manners  ;  and  strange  as  it  may  appear,  I  often  thought  tliere 
was   as  much  elegance  of  attitude  displayed  in  the  splendid 
arm  of  a  Turkish  beauty,  holding  her  rich   chibouque,  and 
seated  on  her  Persian  carpet,  as  ev'eh  in  the  form  6f  a  lovely 
girl  at  home,  bending  over  h(^r  harp,  or  floating  along  with  the 
music  of  the  waltz.     The  female  apparel  is  superb,  and  cer- 
tainly becoming;  there  is  a  profusion  of  gaudy  colors,  but  well 
disposed ;  and  the  head  is  constantly  decked  with  all  the  fair 
one's  diamonds  and  pearls. 

"  They  ai-e  always  in  full  dress.     A  lurban  I  never  saw;  the 
hair  is  commonly  platted  in  an  embroidered  piece  of  gauze, 
around  the  head,  and  falls  in  rich  profusion  to  the  waist,  and 
■26 


302  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 


EUROPEAN    TURKEY. 


often  much  lower,  and  is  then  fastened  with  little  gold  knobs 
in  great  numbers. 

"The  apartments  of  the  harem  are  generally  tlir>  most  spa- 
cious, and  those  of  the  higlicr  classes  are  surcharged  with 
tawdry  decorations.  The  ceilings  are  daubed  in  fresco;  the 
panels  and  cornice  are  gilt;  in  the  walls  there  are  various 
Jiooks,  with  Moorish  carvings,  inlaid  with  mother-of-pearl, 
.  serving  for  boudoirs.  &c. 

"  In  the  centre  of  the  sitting-room,  there  is  commonly  a  mar- 
ble fountain,  whose  falling  water  lulls  the  indolent  to  repose, 
and  amuses  the  thoughtless  with  its  murmurs.  The  richest 
perfumes  are  kept  burning  near  the  divan,  and  the  very  air  is 
made  the  pander  of  the  se'nses.  All  the  furniture  of  the  cham- 
ber consists  of  the  divan  ;  it  surrounds  the  room  ;  the  cover  is 
of  the  finest  cloth;  the  cushions,  of  bine  or  purple  velvet. 
Costly  carpets  are  sjiread  over  the  marble  door,  and  upon 
them  the  ladies  seat  themselves  to  dine,  after  the  lord  of  the 
creation  has  appeased  his  appetite ;  there  are  neither  knives 
nor  forks,  nor  plates,  nor  drinking  glasses,  nor  chairs,  nor  ta- 
bles: one  common  dish  appears  ata  tin\e,  and  pfrhaj)s  fifty 
are  brought  in  succession.  Tlie  prejudice  against  greasy  fin- 
gers, at  first,  made  it  rather  monstrous  to  see  delicate  ladies 
plunging  their  hands  into  reeking  dishes;  tearing  a  leg  of 
mutton  piecemeal,  or  tugging  at  the  wing  of  an  oliduratefowl ; 
but  now  I  can  look  on  a  greasy  finger  with  as  much  compla- 
cency as  a  silver  fork,  and  drink  soup  with  a  wooden  spoon 
out  of  a  tureen  that  suj>pliL's  jjorhaps  a  dozen." 

The  Turks  sit  cross-legged  on  sofas,  cushions,  or  mattresses, 
as  well  at  meals  as  in  company.  Their  ideas  seldom  extend 
beyond  the  walls  of  their  own  houses,  where  they  sit  conver- 
sing with  their  women,  drinking  coHt-e  or  sherbet,  or  smoking 
tol)atco.  They  are  strangeis  to  wit  and  agreeal)le  conversa- 
tion ;  have  few  printed  books,  and  rarely  read  any  other  than 
the  Koran,  and  the  comments  upon  it.  They  dine  about  elev- 
en in  the  forenoon,  and  sup  at  Jive  in  the  winter,  or  si.\  in  the 
summer;  the  latter  is  their  principal  meal.  The  dishes  are 
served  up  one  l)y  one  ;  but  they  have  neither  knives  nor  fi)rks, 
and  their  religion  prohibits  the  use  of  gold  or  silver  spoons. 
Their  victiuils  are  always  highly  seasomnl.  Rice  is  the  ordi- 
nary food  of  the  lowest  orders;  and  sometimes  it  is  boiled  up 
with  gravy ;  but  their  favorite  dish  is  pilaic,  which  consists  of 
a  highly  seasoned  soup,  made  of  mutton  and  fowl  boiled  to 
rags,  and  poured  ujjon  rice  that  has  been  boiled  ([uite  dry. 
They  are  temperate  and  sober;  their  religion  forbi<ls  thc^m 
the  use  of  wine  ;  yet,  in  private,  many  of  them  indulge  in  it. 

The  use  of  the  i^ipe,  however,  aJfords  the  chief  employment 
to  a  Turk.  The  use  of  it  is  universal,  and  almost  imintt-rrupted. 
On  horseback,  riding,  sitting,  walking,  re'clining.  or  laboring 
at  his  art,  it  is  a  constant  companion.  It  is  one  of  the  lew 
things  on  v.hieh  the  Turks  disiilay  much  splendor  or  taste. 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  303 

MANNERS  AND  CUSTOMS. 

It  is  always  sumptuous,  with  those  who  can  aftbrd  it.  Tiie  tube 
is  six  or  seven  feet  in  length,  and  the  bowl  is  richly  ornamented. 
The  bowl  is  sometimes  supported  on  wheels,  that,  in  moving 
it,  the  indolence  of  the  smoker  may  not  be  violated. 

In  a  life  as  void  of  incident  as  that  of  the  Turk,  some  there 
are  who  seek  the  excitement  of  opium.  They  are  called  the- 
riakis,  opium-eaters,  and  particular  coffee-houses  exist,  where 
they  assemble  to  indulge  tlieraselves  in  their  delightful  employ- 
ment. "I  had  heard,"  says  Dr.  Madden,  "so  many  contra- 
dictory reports  of  the  sensations  produced  by  this  drug,  that  I 
resolved  to  know  the  truth,  and  accordingly  took  my  seat  in 
the  coffee-house,  with  half-a-dozen  iheriakis.  Their  gestures 
were  frightful ;  those  who  were  completely  u:idev  the  influence 
of  the  opium  talked  incoherently,  their  features  were  flushed, 
their  eyes  had  an  unnatural  brillianc}^,  and  the  general  expres- 
sion of  their  countenances  was  horribly  wild.  The  effect  is 
usually  produced  in  two  hours,  and  lasts  four  or  five ;  the  dose 
varies  from  three  grains  to  a  drachm.  1  saw  an  old  man  take 
four  pills,  of  six  grains  each,  in  the  course  of  two  hours ;  I 
was  told  he  had  been  using  opium  for  five-and-twenty  years  j 
but  this  is  a  very  rare  example  of  an  opium-eater  passing  thir- 
ty years  of  age,  if  he  commence  the  practice  early.  The  de- 
bility, both  moral  and  physical,  attendant  on  its  excitement,  is 
terrible ;  the  appetite  is  soon  destroyed,  every  fibre  in  the  body 
trembles,  the  nerves  of  the  neck  become  affected,  and  the 
muscles  get  rigid;  several  of  these  I  have  seen  in  this  place, 
at  various  times,  who  had  wry  necks  and  contracted  fingers ; 
but  still  they  cannot  abandon  .the  custom ;  they  are  miserable 
till  the  hour  arrives  for  taking  their  regular  dose ;  and  when 
its  delightful  influence  begins,  they  ai'e  all  fire  and  animation. 
Some  of  them  compose  excellent  verses,  and  others  address 
the  bystanders  in  the  most  eloquent  discourses,  imagining 
themselves  to  be  emperors,  and  to  have  all  the  harems  in  the 
world  at  their  command.  I  commenced  with  one  grain ;  in 
the  course  of  an  hour  and  a  half  it  produced  no  perceptible  ef- 
fect; the  coffee-house  keeper  was  very  anxious  to  give  me  an 
additional  pill  of  two  grains,  but  1  was  contented  with  half  a  one; 
and  after  another  half  hour,  feeling  nothing  of  the  expected 
revery,  I  took  half  a  grain  more,  making  in  all,  two  grains  in 
the  course  of  two  hours.  After  two  hours  and  a  half  from  the 
first  dose,  I  took  two  grains  more ;  and  shortly  after  this  dose, 
my  spirits  became  sensibly  excited :  the  pleasure  of  the  sen- 
sation seemed  to  depend  on  a  universal  expansion  of  mind 
and  matter.  My  faculties  appeared  enlarged :  every  thing  I 
looked  on  seemed  increased  in  volume ;  I  had  no  longer  the 
same  pleasure  when  I  closed  my  eyes,  which  I  had  when  they 
were  open ;  it  appeared  to  me  as  if  it  "were  only  external  ob- 
jects which  were  acted  upon  by  the  imagination,  and  magni- 
fied into  images  of  pleasure:  in  short,  it  was  'the  faint  exqui- 
site music  of  a  dream'  in  a  waking  moment.  I  made  my  way 
*\ome  as  fast  as  possible,  dreading  at  every  step,  that  I  should 


304  UMVKRSAL  TRAVELLER. 

EUROPEAN  TUHKEY. 


commit  some  extravagance.  In  walking,  I  was  hardly  sensi- 
ble of  n)y  feet  touchinsr  the  ground ;  it  seemed  as  if  I  slid  aloni^ 
the  street,  impelled  by  some  invisible  ajrent,  and  that  my  blood 
was  C(>iniKsed  of  some  ethereal  lluid,  which  rcuden-d  mj'body 
ligiiter  than  air.  1  got  to  bed  the  moment  I  reached  home. 
Tlie  most  extraordinary  visions  of  deiiglit  tilled  m}'  brain  all 
night.  In  the  morning  I  rose,  pale  and  di.'ipirired;  my  head 
ached  ;  and  my  boily  was  so  debilitat(Hl  that  I  was  oldiged  to 
remain  on  the  sola  all  the  day,  dearly  paying  for  my  lii'st  essay 
at  opium  eating."* 

The  Tiivkiffh  rilien  han'  all  a  sphndid  appearance,  when  seen 
at  a  distance,  but  the  delusion  vanishes  on  entering  them. 
There  are  many  towers,  domes,  and  minarets,  and  these,  seen 
over  the  line  of  walls,  always  make  an  imposing  show.  But  the 
individual  hr)U.ses  have  n.Mther  elegance  nor  comfort;  and 
many  of  them  are  slightly  built,  of  peri.'^hable  materials.  The 
more  substantial  kinds  have  verandahs  and  courts,  and  on  the 
flat  roofs  the  inhabitants  sleep  in  certain  seasons.  A  fire  ra- 
ges in  a  Turkish  city.  The  general  apathy  of  the  peo[)le,  tYrv. 
want  of  concert  or  orgarazation,  and  their  creed  of  predesti- 
nation, are  so  many  allies  to  the  flame,  which  is  seldom  check- 
ed, at  Constantinople,  till  it  lacks  fuel  by  reaching  an  open 
place,  or  till  a  space  is  cleared  by  the  removal  of  houses.  This 
is  not  difficult,  as  the  buildings  are  small.  The  houses  have 
little  exterior  ornament,  for,  in  Turkeyj  it  is  not  safe  to  make 
a  display  of  wealth.  The  interior  is  finished  with  much  finery, 
but  little  taste.  The  looms  have  carjiets,  and  there  is  a  divan, 
(U"  raised  step,  or  platfltrm,  running  round  them,  which  is  cov- 
ered with  cushions,  that  make  the  only  seats  of  the  Turks,  on 
which  they  sit  cross-legged  like  tailors.  Sometimes  several 
cushions  are  piled  together,  and  form  a  s<nt  of  raised  conch. 
There  are  no  tables,  but  trays  are  used,  whicli  are  placed  on 
the  floor.  There  art-  no  fire-places,  and  though  it  is  not  ran? 
Uiat  persons  are  killed  by  the  vapor  of  charcoal,  the  rooms 
are  warmed  l)y  nothing  else. 

Architecturt"  is  an  ait  founded  on  necessity,  and  where  this 
is  neglected,  the  ornamental  aits  can  have  no  encouragement. 
Yet,  perhaps  any  other  people  than  the  Turks,  would  in  Tur- 
key have  produced  some  monuments  of  good  architecture. 
Asia  Minor  and  Syria  have  more  numerous  and  imposing  re- 
mains of  ancient  art  than  are  to  be  found  in  Kurope.  The 
Turk  views  them  with  his  usual  apathy;  and  so  much  above 
his  estimation  of  human  means  do  they  seem,  that  he  refers 
their  erection  to  the  agency  of  spirits  suinm(Mied  by  Solomon  ; 
yet  he  feels  no  admiration,  and  attempts  no  imitation. 

In  Eurnpean  Turkey,  pnst»  are  e^itablishrd,  but  the  horses 
are  very  inferior,  and  they  are  to  be  had  only  on  the  chief 

•  Maddcn'e  Travels  in  Turkey  and  E;^ypt. 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  305 

AMUSEMENTS. 


routes.  It  is  a  service  of  difficulty,  endurance,  and  danger, 
to  reach  Constantinople,  by  land,  from  Vienna.  In  leaving 
Austria,  the  traveller's  hardships  and  perils  are  increased ; 
and  his  journey  is  always  among  those  who  have  little  respect 
for  his  life  or  property.  There  are  but  two  reasons  that  lead 
Europeans  to  travel  in  this  country,  curiosity  and  gain.  But 
the  gratifications  to  the  former  are  so  numerous,  that  many 
adventurers  have  explored  the  parts  where  the  danger  and 
privation  are  the  greatest.  Foreigners  who  do  not  travel  in 
parties,  generally  go  under  the  direction  of  a  guide,  or  attend- 
ant on  horseback.  The  roads  are  passable  for  rude  carriages. 
The  only  accommodation  that  may  be  generally  relied  upon 
is  shelter,  though  this  is  not  always  to  be  had.  There  are, 
however,  inns,  or  caravansaries,  at  which  maybe  had  a  shel- 
ter like  that  of  a  stable,  with  a  provision  of  chopped  straw  for 
the  horses.  It  is  seldom  that  they  are  furnished  with  food. 
It  is  well  for  the  European  traveller  to  supply  himself  with  a 
janizary  cloak,  a  thick  garment  of  goat's  or  camel's  hair,  and 
if  he  is  in  haste,  to  put  himself  under  the  care  of  one  of  the 
Tartar  couriers,  who  are  familiar  with  the  route.  It  will  con- 
duce somewhat  to  his  comfort  also  to  assume  a  dress  of  the 
country ;  and  the  greater  the  poverty  it  indicates,  the  less  is 
the  danger  from  robbers,  or  the  vexation  from  extortioners. 
There  is  danger  from  robbers  in  many  of  the  less  settled  parts 
of  Turkey,  and  there  is  extortion  everywhere. 

Walking  or  riding  is  rarely  resorted  to  for  health,  or  recrea- 
tion j  but  the  warm  bath  is  freely  used  as  a  luxury,  and  con- 
tributes to  that  delicious  repose,  which  is  the  highest  gratifica- 
tion of  a  Turk.  The  active  diversions  consist  in  shooting  at 
a  mark,  at  which  the  Turks  are  very  expert;  and  sometimes 
men  of  eminence  and  power  will  take  the  field  for  hunting, 
with  numerous  equipages,  which  are  joined  by  their  inferiors ; 
but  this  is  more  frequently  done  from  political  motives,  that 
they  may  know  the  strength  of  their  dependants,  than  from  a 
desire  to  enjoy  the  chase.  The  sedentary  games  of  chess  and 
draughts  are  their  ordinary  amusements;  and  if  they  play  at 
hazard,  it  is  not  for  money;  all  gambling  being  strictly  pro- 
hibited by  their  religion. 

While  writing  upon  the  amusements  of  the  Turks,  Dr.  Mad- 
den relates  the  following  curious  incident.  '•  I  was  at  a  Turk- 
ish feast  a  few  days  ago,  given  by  a  patient  of  mine,  where 
the  entertainment  of  the  evening  consisted  in  playing  off  the 
most  appalHng  practical  jokes  I  ever  witnessed,  on  the  person 
of  a  buffoon,  who  was  well  paid  for  suffering  them.  It  was 
the  poor  fellow's  trade;  and  he  bore  the  marks  of  its  dreadful 
nature  on  his  cicatrised  visage. 

"  Having  sent  him  out  of  the  room,  a  pipe  was  charged  with 
gunpowder,  and  over  this  a  little  tobacco  was  spread.  He  was 
then  sent  for,  made  to  sit  down,  and  was  presented  with  the 
pipe;  he  had  scarcely  lighted  it,  when  it  exploded  at  the  fir«t 

26* 


306  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

EUROPEAN  THRKEY. 

puff,  and  drove  the  tube  a<;ainst  the  palate  of  his  mouth  with 
great  violence;  his  lips  were  bloody  in  a  moment,  and  the  sight 
only  excited  a  roar  of  merriment  around  him.  I  was  in  hopes 
the  amuifcnient  was  over,  but  another,  and  a  more  inhuman 
jest  succeeded  ; — a  platt^  was  filled  with  flour,  and  in  this 
twenty  short  pieces  of  lighted  candle  were  stuck  ;  the  buffoon 
and  his  companion  were  j^laced  kneeling  in  tiie  centre  of  the 
room  opposite  to  each  other,  and  they  w«'re  made  to  hold  the 
plate  by  their  teeth  ;  at  a  given  signal  they  were  to  blow  the 
tlour  in  each  other's  face,  across  the  candles,  and  he  who 
gave  the  quickest  blast  escaped  the  volume  of  flame  which  the 
ignited  particles  of  flour  s(Mit  forth;  the  fellow  who  sustain(>d 
the  first  injury,  had  the  good  futune  to  escape  unscorched  ; 
he  completely  singed  the  bakl  head  of  his  companion,  ami 
burned  the  upper  part  of  his  face  and  brows  severely;  there 
was  another  shout  of  savage  laughter,  while  the  nnfortmiate 
man  was  smearing  oil  over  his  features  to  allay  the  |)ain.  I 
.saw  preparations  making  for  farther  feats  of  Turkish  humor, 
but  I  was  thoroughly  disgusted,  and  gladly  left  the  place." 

The  only  remnant  of  Saracen  chivalry  existing  in  Turkey 
is  the  jerecd  tounianient.  •' I  witnessed  one,"  says  Dr.  Mad- 
den, "in  honor  of  the  birth  of  a  child,  in  the  imperial  iiareni  ; 
and  certainly  never  beheld  so  imposing  a  spectacle  as  this  im- 
mense a.ssemblage  of  people  exhibited  ;  upwards  of  sixty  thou- 
sand persons  of  either  sex,  in  all  the  varieties  of  Eastern 
costume,  and  in  which  all  the  colors  of  the  rainbow  were  blend- 
ed', were  seated  on  the  sloping  sides  of  a  natural  amphitheatre  ; 
the  Sultan  sat  above,  magnificently  apparelled,  surrounded  by 
his  black  and  white  slaves  in  glittering  attire.  lie  appeared 
about  forty-four  years  of  age;  his  figuif  majestic,  anri  his 
aspect  noble;  his  long  black  beard  added  to  the  solemnity  of 
features,  which  he  never  relaxed  for  a  moment;  and  while  all 
around  were  convulsed  witii  laughter  at  the  buflbcmeries  of 
a  merry-andrew.  who  amused  tli(>  multitud(»,  he  kept  his 
dark  eye  on  tlie  jugi^ler,  but  he  never  smiled.  Hundreds  of 
horsemen  were  galloping-  to  and  fro  on  the  plain  below,  hurl- 
ing the  jpvifjl  at  random;  now  assailing  the  nearest  to  them, 
now  in  pur.suit  of  the  disarmed.  Their  dexterity  in  avoiding 
the  weajjon  was  luckily  very  great,  otherwise  many  lives  must 
have  been  lost;  as  it  was,  I  saw  one  cavalier  led  off  with  his 
eye  punched  out,  and  another  crushed  under  a  horse;  these 
accidents  never  interfered  for  a  moment  with  the  sports;  one 
sport  succeeded  another.  After  {\\r  ji  ri'i-d,  came  the  wrestlers, 
naked  to  the  waist,  and  smeared  with  oil.  They  prostrated 
themselves  several  times  before  the  Sultan,  performed  a  num- 
ber of  very  clumsy  feats,  and  then  set  to.  Their  address  lay 
in  seizing  one  atiotlwr  by  the  hips;  and  he  who  had  the  most 
strength,  lifted  his  adversary  off  his  legs,  and  then  flinging  him 
to  the  earth,  fell  with  all  his  force  upon  him.  Music  relieved  the 
tedium  between  the  rounds,  and  several  occurred  before  any 
serious  mischief  was  sustained.     At  last  one  poor  fellow  was 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  307 

PUNISHMENTS. 

maimed  for  life,  to  make  a  Turkish  holyday ;  he  had  his  thigh 
bone  smashed,  and  was  carried  oflF  the  field  with  great  ap- 
plause !  Bear-fightino;  was  next  attempted ;  but  Bruin  was  not 
to  be  coaxed  or  frightened  into  pugnacity ;  the  dogs  growled 
at  him  in  vain.  During  all  these  pastimes,  the  slaves  were  run- 
ning backwards  and  forwards  from  the  multitude  to  the  Sultan, 
carrying  him  innumerable  petitions  from  the  Ibrmer,  which 
he  cannot  refuse  to  receive,  and  seldom  can  find  leisure  to 
read.  The  departure  of  the  pacific  bear  terminated  these 
brutal  sports,  and  every  one,  except  the  friends  of  the  dead 
man  and  the  two  wounded,  appeared  to  go  away  delighted  be- 
yond measure." 

The  laws  of  Turkey,  areprincipallj'-  contained  in  the  Koran, 
and  commentaries  of  sages.  In  whatever  justice  they  may  be 
founded,  it  is  admitted  by  travellers  that  the  administration  of 
them  is  singularly  corrupt.  Bribery  is  practised  to  a  great 
extent,  and  seldom  is  it  that  a  judge  has  not  his  price.  Dr. 
Clarke  recites  the  following  case  as  an  example  of  the  manner 
in  which  a  principle  of  law  is  sometimes  applied.  "A  young 
man  desperately  in  love  with  a  girl  of  Stanchio,  eagerly  sought 
to  marry  her;  but  his  proposals  Avere  rejected.  In  conse- 
quence of  his  disappointment,  he  bought  some  poison  and  de- 
stroyed himself  The  Turkish  police  instantly  arrested  the 
father  of  the  young  woman,  as  the  cause,  by  implication,  of  the 
man's  death;  under  the  fifth  specii's  of  homicide,  he  became 
therefore  amenable  for  this  act  of  suicide.  When  the  case 
came  before  the  magistrate,  it  was  urged  literally,  by  the 
accusers,  that  'If  he,  the  accused,  had  not  had  a  daughter,  the 
deceased  would  not  have  fallen  in  love;  consequently,  he 
would  not  have  been  disappointed  ;  consequently  he  would  not 
have  swallowed  poison;  consequently  he  would  not  have 
died: — but  he,  the  accused,  had  a  daughter;  and  the  deceased 
had  fallen  in  love ;  and  had  been  disappointed ;  and  had  swal- 
lowed poison;  and  had  died.'  Upon  all  these  counts,  he  was 
called  upon  to  pay  the  price  of  the  young  man's  life;  and  this 
being  fixed  at  the  sum  of  eighty  piastres,  was  accordingly  ex- 
acted."* 

Of  capital  punishment  there  are  several  varieties.  One  is 
by  poison,  which  is  sometimes  conveyed  in  coffee  on  the  mouth- 
piece of  a  pipe,  or  in  sherbet.  Dr.  Madden  observes  that  he 
once  had  an  opportunity  of  seeing  the  speedy  effect  of  poison- 
ed coffee  on  an  Egyptian  merchant;  he  died  seven  hours  af- 
ter its  administration,  of  dreadful  torture.  "  Decapitation," 
observes  the  same  author,  "is  the  most  humane  and  most  com- 
mon mode  of  inflicting  death;  defaulters  to  government,  murder- 
ers, rebellious  subjects,  generally  undergo  this  punishment.  I 
have  seen  it  variously  performed,  at  one  time  with  a  single  back- 
handed stroke  of  a  hangar  •■  at  other  times,  with  the  curved 

*  Clarke's  Travels. 


308  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

El'ROPEAN  TUHKEY. 

Vatican,  and  with  repeated  blows:  if  a  Turk,  the  head  is  placed 
beneatli  the  elbow,  if  a  Greek,  in  a  more  opprobrious  position. 
ImpaliniT  is  rare,  and  reserved  for  hif^hway  robbery;  the  last 
time  I  heard  of  its  beinfj  practised  was  on  a  highwayman  in 
Wallacliia.  A  stake  was  thrust  throufih  his  body,  and  it  was 
thus  set  up  for  exhibition.  The  bowstrinp;  I  saw  inllicted,  in 
Canea,  on  an  Albanian  soldier,  who  shot  a  woman  in  the  street 
from  a  coffee-house  window.  The  ojieration  was  very  sum- 
mary:  the  pallid  wretch  was  tried  in  the  morning,  and  he 
knew  nothing  of  the  nature  of  his  sentence  till  he  was  seized 
by  two  strong  fellows,  hurried  into  the  courtyard  of  the  house, 
and,  exactly  at  sunset,  a  gun  was  fired,  the  noose  was  slipped 
over  his  face,  a  sliort  stick  jiassed  between  the  back  of  his 
neck  and  the  cord,  and  this  was  twisted  round  and  round  till 
he  was  strangled. 

"  The  bastinado  is  the  chastisement  visited  on  petty  larceny, 
(which  is  a  crime,  however,  very  frequent  in  Turkey.)  on 
drunkenness,  refusal  of  paying  trilnite,  taxes,  &c.;  and  some- 
times it  is  employed  on  liayahs^  to  extort  a  confession  of  their 
wealth.  There  are  also  various  methods  of  inflicting  the  bas- 
tinado: on  the  soles  of  the  feet,  with  the  thong  of  tlie  hide  of 
the  hippopotamus,  called  cr)7;r/n/.s7<;  this  I  have  seen  laid  on  by 
two  men,  one  at  each  side  of  the  poor  wretch,  who  is  placed 
on  his  back,  and  kept  down  by  a  man  sitting  on  his  breast ;  the 
legs  are  generally  streaming  with  blood  after  this  horrid  pun- 
ishment! From  ninety  to  two  hundred  stripes  are  commonly 
given  ;  but  for  greater  crimes,  five  hundred  are  inflicted  ;  ami 
for  still  greater,  a  thousand;  this  number  is  always  fatal. 
Another  very  common  mode  of  bastinadoing,  is  with  thick 
long  staffs  over  the  stomach,  ribs,  and  loins;  and  this  bar- 
barous practice  generally  maims  the  man  for  life. 

"  Other  modes  of  capital  punishment  are  by  the  sack  and  by 
drowning.  Nailing  by  the  ears  is  an  operation  performed  on 
bakers  for  selling  light  bread.  There  is  a  hole  cut  in  the  door 
for  the  back  of  the  culjirit's  head  ;  the  e.'irs  are  then  nailed 
to  the  panel ;  he  is  left  in  this  position  till  sunset,  then  re- 
leased ;  and  seldom  sustains  any  permanent  injury  from  the 
punishnient.  except  in  his  reputation.  And,  lastly,  I  must  no- 
tice the  absurd  mode  of  jumishing  perjuries;  an  offence  which 
is  so  little  thought  of,  that  it  is  visited  with  the  mildest  of  all 
their  punishments.  The  olfender  is  set  upon  an  a.ss,  with  his 
face  to  the  tail,  and  a  label  on  his  back,  with  the  term  scheat 
or  j)erjurer." 

Thii  Tiirkixh  Uni^iia^e  is  written  in  the  Arabic  character, 
and  is  evidently  of  Tartar  origin;  but  its  writers  have  borrow- 
ed so  copiously  from  the  languages  of  Persia  and  Arabia,  that 
it  has  received  the  appellation  of  Mulenuiia,  or  the  "pied 
mare."  Mr.  Thornton  says,  ''no  language  it  better  suited  for 
cr)lioquial  pin"pos<'s;  and  though  he  maintains  that  it  excels  in 
dignity,  and  gravity,  he  allows  that  it  is  deficient  in  terms  of 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  309 

TURKISH    LANGUAGE — POLYGAMY. 

art.  and  in  expressions  adapted  to  pliilosophical  ideas.  Among 
this  people,  literature,  science,  and  the  arts,  are  still  in  their 
infancy  ;  and  this  is  no  doubt  owing,  in  a  great  measure,  to  the 
exclusive  nature  of  their  religion.  They  treat  foreign  nations 
with  the  utmost  contempt,  on  the  ground  of  their  in.fidelity,  and 
consequently  they  despise  the  arts  of  foreign  invention.  The 
great  discoveries  of  modern  Europe  have  tlius  been  entirel)' 
lost  upon  them,  and  they  remain  in  nearly  the  same  state  of 
ignorance,  as  when  they  first  left  the  banks  of  Oxus.  In 
their  medresses,  or  colleges,  the  principal  branches  of  study 
are  grammar,  rhetoric,  Persian  and  Arabian,  poetry,  with 
the  logic  and  philosophy  of  the  dark  ages.  History,  geo- 
graphy, and  mathematics  are  completely  neglected,  v.'hile  ju- 
dicial astrology  is  held  in  high  estimation  by  all  ranks;  and 
their  physicians  are  mere  pretenders  to  supernatural  skill. 
Th'Mr  ministers  of  state  are  even  unacquainted  with  the  statis- 
tics of  their  own  country;  and  their  knowledge  of  the  govern- 
ments, the  diplomacy,  and  the  relations  of  European  states  is 
very  superficial. 

Polygamy  in  Turkey  is  limited  to  a  certain  number,  namely, 
four;  no  one  can  take  a  greater  number  of  wives,  but  the  so- 
ciety of  as  many  slaves  as  a  man  can  purchase,  is  tolerated; 
and  the  children  by  such  slaves  are  equally  legitimate  with 
those  born  in  wedlock,  upon  performing  a  public  act  of  man- 
umission before  a  cadi.  Marriage  is  a  civil  institution,  and 
is  effected  by  the  appearance  of  the  suiter,  with  the  next  mate 
relative  of  the  bride,  before  the  magistrate ;  the  happy  man 
avows  his  affection  for  a  girl  he  never  saw,  makes  a  settle- 
ment on  her  according  to  his  circumstances,  (for  a  Turkish 
lady  brings  nothing  but  her  beauty  for  her  dower,)  and  hav- 
ing owned  her  for  his  lawful  wife,  the  match  is  registered,  and 
the  marriage  is  of  course  made  (as  all  marriages  are)  in 
heaven.  The  happy  man  invites  all  his  male  friends,  and 
those  of  his  wife,  (whom  he  has  not  yet  seen,)  to  his  house, 
and  treats  them  with  music,  vocal  and  instrumental,  sherbet 
and  coffee.  The  bride,  in  the  mean  time,  receives  admirable 
lectures  from  all  the  neighboring  matrons  on  the  power  of  her 
husband,  and  the  submission  he  expects.  She  is  taken  to  the 
bath  with  great  pomp,  where  she  undergoes  the  process  of 
ablution,  anointing,  and  perfuming;  and  is  at  last  conveyed 
to  her  husband's  house,  under  a  gaudy  canopy,  dressed  in 
her  richest  garb,  au^d  covered  all  over  with  a  veil,  Avhich 
scarcely  transmits  her  blushes  to  the  spectators ;  a  troop  of 
cavaliers  is  in  attendance  ;  a  buffoon  and  a  band  of  music 
form  part  of  the  procession.  She  is  received  at  the  door 
of  the  husband  by  his  father,  or  himself,  and  is  immediately 
conveyed  to  the  women's  apartments,  where  she  remains 
whilst  her  lord  and  his  guests  are  banqueting  without. 

There  is  another  species  of  marriage,  named  hakabin,  which 
is  adopted  by  strangers,  who  mean  to  sojourn  but  a  short  time 


3in  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

EUROPEAN  TURKKY. 

in  a  city.  The  man  ontors  into  a  compact,  before  the  cadi,  to 
maintain  the  woman  as  his  wife  for  a  given  period,  or  till  such 
time  as  his  business  calls  him  away. 

The  reh'pioii  of  European  Turkey  is  the  Mahnvietan,  Chris- 
Han,  and  Jcwis'h.  The  Christian  embraces  the  Arnuniian, 
CatlioHe,  and  Greek  cimrclu's.  Maliometanism,  however,  is 
the  prevailing  faith,  and  its  professors,  acting  upon  the  princi- 
ple of  exclusion  inculcated  in  the  Koran,  regard  with  disdain 
and  aversion,  all  who  adopt  a  dilferent  faith. 

The  Koran  is  the  bible  of  the  Mahometans.  It  was  the  work, 
as  our  readers  well  know,  of  Mahomet,  the  founder  of  this  re- 
ligion, who  was  born  at  Mecca,  A.  D.  569.  In  his  youth  he 
was  a  travelling  mercliant.  His  fortunes  and  influence  were 
established  by  his  marriage  of  a  rich  widow  by  the  name  of 
Cadijah,  in  whose  service  he  had  been  employed.  At  the  age 
of  forty,  he  began  to  promulgate  his  religion,  which,  partaking 
somewhat  of  .Judaism  and  Christianity,  has  been  called  a 
"Christian  heresy."  In  successive  years,  he  published  jior- 
tions  of  the  Koran,  as  suited  his  convenience,  accommodating 
his  revelations  to  exigences  as  they  occurred.  At  first,  his 
success  was  small,  his  converts  few  ;  but  at  length  he  gather- 
ed strength,  made  himself  master  of  Arabia,  and  now  for  more 
than  twelve  hundred  years,  Mahometanism  has  prevailed  to  a 
great  extent  in  Asia,  and  also  in  Africa.  Turkey  in  Europe 
IS  one  of  its  strongholds. 

The  Koran  inculcates  the  belief  of  six  articles  or  command- 
ments. 

1st.  The  belief  in  one  only  God. 

2d.  The  belief  in  Mahomet's  apostolical  character. 

3d.  The  observance  of  the  Ramazan  Fast. 

4th.  The  i)ractice  of  tlie  five  )irayers  and  ablutions. 

5th.  The  application  of  two  and  a  half  per  cent,  of  property 
to  the  poor. 

6th.  The  performance  of  the  pilgrimage  to  Mecca. 

The  five  prayers  are  to  be  repeated  daily  ;  one  before  sun- 
rise, one  at  the  dawn,  one  at  noon,  one  at  four  in  the  afternoon, 
and  one  at  sunset.  Their  posture  durinir  prayer  is  erect,  with 
their  arms  folded  over  their  breasts,  and  apparently  in  serious 
contemplation  of  the  duty  they  are  performing.  Their  faces 
are  turned  to  the  east;  nothing  is  heard  but  a  short  ejaculation 
as  they  place  themselves  cross-legged  for  a  few  minutes,  and 
then  salute  tho  ground  with  tln-ir  foreheads;  this  prostration 
occurs  niuf^  times. 

The  Mufti  is  the  head  of  the  religion,  an  officer  of  the 
highest  rank,  entitled  to  many  immunities,  and  to  one  espe- 
cialhy.  of  no  little  value  in  Turkey,  exemption  from  capital 
punishment. 

Muftis,  however,  under  violent  Sultans,  have  been  pounded 
in  mortars  for  slight  offences.    To  this  pontiff  all  matters  of 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  311 

RELIGION. 

religion  are  referred ;  and  by  him  all  knotty  points  of  theology 
are  disentangled. 

There  can  hardly  be  said  to  exist  a  church  establishment  in 
Turkey;  there  are,  in  fact,  no  professed  priests;  the  Imams, 
who  occasionally  expound  a  passage  of  the  Koran  in  the 
mosque,  have  no  other  duty  to  perform  there,  and  commonly 
follow  some  lucrative  employment. 

The  Moiilahs  are  the  bodies  from  which  the  vmfti  is  chosen, 
and  are  not  churchmen,  but  lawyers.  The  muezzin  super- 
sedes the  necessity  of  a  bell :  he  ascends  the  minaret  five  times 
a  day,  and  calls  the  faithful  to  prayer ;  he  tells  them,  at  day- 
break, that  prayer  is  better  than  sleep ;  and  at  dinner-hour, 
that  prayer  is  better  than  food.  The  dervishes  correspond  to 
the  monks  of  Italy ;  they  are  lazy  and  uncleanly  ;  they  pro- 
fess to  live  a  life  of  abstinence,  but  drink  rum  with  great  de- 
votion. They  eat  much  opium.  The  sect  of  them  called 
Mevelevi,  from  their  founder,  are  the  whirling  dervishes;  they 
spin  round  and  round  in  acts  of  devotion,  with  such  velocity, 
that  they  sometimes  drop  to  the  ground;  and  there,  in  a  state 
of  intoxication,  they  affect  to  have  celestial  visions,  and  edify 
the  surrounding  multitude  with  such  marvellous  descriptions 
as  Don  Q.uixote  detailed  after  his  subterranean  journey. 

In  the  Mahometan  religion,  nothing  is  inculcated  more 
strictly  than  the  observance  of  the  fast  of  the  ^omazan,  during 
a  lunar  month.  From  sunrise  to  sunset,  the  pleasures  of  the 
table,  the  pipe,  and  the  harem,  are  forbidden.  It  is  not  permit- 
ted to  taste  a  morsel  of  food,  nor  a  drop  of  water,  all  day  long. 
No  sooner  is  the  AJogreb  announced  from  the  mosque,  the  pe- 
riod permitted  for  eating  and  drinking,  than  the  revels  of  the 
night  commence,  and  they  feast  and  enjoy  themselves  till  the 
approach  of  the  unwelcome  morning.  After  this  fast,  comes 
the  great  feast  of  the  Beiram,,  a  festival  corresponding  to  East- 
er. This  is  a  time  of  universal  rejoicing:  every  one  is  dress- 
ed in  his  richest  apparel.  Even  the  ladies  are  permitted  to 
visit  their  friends,  and  to  receive  the  visits  of  their  nearest 
male  relations,  that  is  to  say,  of  their  fathers,  brothers,  and  un- 
cles ,  but  they  are  permitted  this  visit  at  no  other  period;  and 
it  is,  in  genera],  short  and  ceremonious.  The  Tui'ks  imagine 
the  current  of  their  wives'  affections  can  never  flow  in  two 
channels;  and  that  it  is  impossible  for  a  woman  to  love  a 
brother  and  a  husband  at  the  same  time. 

The  sixth  commandment,  or  perfoimance  of  the  pilgrimage 
to  Mecc  !,  is  of  such  vital  importance  to  all  Mussulmans,  that 
no  one  is  exempt  from  its  obligations,  except  the  grand  seignior, 
and  even  he  must  go  through  it  by  proxy. 

After  the  Ramazan  Fast,  the  three  caravans,  from  Cairo, 
Damascus,  and  Arabia,  set  out  for  the  Holy  City.  In  different 
years  the  number  of  pilgrims  varies  from  sixty  to  one  hundred 
thousand  souls,  and  the  number  of  camels,  from  eighty  thou- 
sand, to  a  hundred  and  fifty  thousand. 

To  walk  seven  times  round  the  house  of  Abraham,  as  they 


312  "UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

EUROPEAN    TURKEY. 

call  the  chief  mosque  in  Mecca,  to  kiss  a  Mack  stone,  which 
they  pretend  fell  wliite  from  heaven  ;  to  plunj,fe  into  a  well, 
called  Zt;i)i  Zi-m  ;  and  to  take  a  dranpht  of  fetid  water,  an  in- 
fatuated multitude  traverse  theburninj^  deserts  of  Arabia,  and 
liUndreds  of  tiiein  annually  leave  their  bones  to  bleach  in  the 
wide  wilderness.  As  no  man  has  any  honor  till  he  becomes  a 
hat/gi,  or  pilgrim,  every  one  endeavors  to  visit  the  Holy  City 
whatever  may  be  his  circumstances  or  occupation. 

77jc  room  rchcrr  a  (lijing  wan  lirs,  is  crowded  with  his  male 
relations;  they  i(>ll  him  the  angel  of  death  has  summoned  him 
to  heaven,  and  (hat  he  should  tro  there  "with  a  cheerful  coun- 
tenance ;  that  he  should  meet  his  fate  as  a  man,  and  rejoice  in 
dying  a  true  believer,  which  ultimately  must  lead  him  to  para- 
dise, whatever  may  have  been  his  crimes.  Th(>y  tiien  make 
very  hyperbolical  assurances  of  friendship;  "that  they  would 
willintrly  die  to  have  the  pleasiu'e  of  his  society  in  eternity;" 
'•  that  if  it  were  jiossible  they  would  die  for  him."  But  as  un- 
fortunately they  cannot,  and  the  patient  gives  up  the  ghost, 
they  then  give  way  to  ignmoderate  sorrow;  they  weep  over 
the  corpse;  the  nearest  relatives  rend  their  garments. — but 
gradually  the  distant  ones  dry  their  eyes,  give  comfort  to  the 
others,  and  a  more  rnanly  sorrow  is  soon  exhibited,  such  as 
would  do  honor  to  any  Christian  bosom.    All  this  time 

" with  I()i)der  plaint 

The  women  speak  ihcir  wo," 

tear  their  hair,  and  apostrophize  tl>e  corpse,  and  ask  him, 
*' why  he  |»>ft  his  wives,  and  his  servants,  and  his  horses?" 
The  shrillness  of  the  scieams  |)ierces  every  car  in  tlie  neiiih- 
borhood  ;  it  is  a  peculiar  yelt,  consisting  of  certain  vibmtions 
of  the  glottis,  which  could  only  be  imitated  bj'  giving  the  tone 
of  an  octave  to  (lie  watchman's  rattle.  'I'his  sound  is  indica- 
tive both  of  joy  and  sorrow  ;  and  it  is  strange  enough,  that  all 
the  women  of  tiie  East,  Turkisii,  Arabian,  ('optic,  and  Arme- 
nian, should  have  the  same  method  of  <lemon.strating  their 
delight  at  a  wedding,  and  their  giief  at  a  funeral. 

This  howl  over  the  dead,  the  rh'lnn  of  (he  (Jreeks,  and  iiht- 
inlii  of  the  Iri.sh,  is  called  uri/ita  in  'I'lukish,  r.rcnnt  in  Arabic. 
No  .sooner  is  the  breath  out  of  a  man's  body,  than  all  the 
vomen  in  the  viiiiiily  reiiair  (o  (he  house  of  moinming,  and 
liowl  (iir  a  (iuar{er  of  an  hour.  "  They  mimic  sc^rrow  when 
the  heart  is  not  sad.  and  (orment  (he  real  moiu'ners  with  forms 
of  consolation,  which  every  well-bred  v.'oman  has  by  heart. 

13u(.  on  the  other  hand,  where  (here  are  many  vives,  and 
where  love  has  been  divided  amonu  many,  lanien(a(ion  is  also 
j>artitioned,  and  (lien  it  is  only  incunib(Mit  on  her  who  has 
borne  most  children,  to  be  inconsolable  to  the  last. 

As  no  CMuistiau  is  suffered  (o  be  present  at  the  preparation 
of  the  body  f(jr  ir.terment.  Dr.  Madden  said  he  risked  his  neck, 
on  the  roof  of  an  adjoining  house,  to  see  the  process.     The 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  313 

FUNERAL    CEREMONIES. 


corpse  was  carried  naked  into  the  courtyard,  and  placed  in 
the  centre  on  a  bier.  The  undertaker  proceeded  to  officiate  ; 
he  turned  the  body  round  several  times,  recited  a  sing-song 
sort  of  prayer, -in  which  he  was  joined  by  the  friends.  The 
operation  of  washing  and  shaving  being  finished,  some  cam- 
phor was  put  into  the  ears,  and  rose  water,  and  some  other 
perfumed  liquor,  was  sprinkled  over  the  body.  Several  folds 
of  linen  were  now  rolled  round  it,  one  over  the  other  ;  the  face 
only  was  left  exposed  :  a  large  pall  was  then  thrown  over  all, 
and  on  this  was  placed  the  turban  of  the  deceased,— the  char- 
acteristic mark  of  a  male  body.  Four  porters  carried  out 
the  bier  on  their  shoulders,  and  thus  bore  the  body,  head  fore- 
most, to  the  grave. 

The  women  followed  to  the  door,  making  a  tremendous  up- 
roar, and  every  one  had  a  white  handkerchief  in  her  hand, 
alternately  waving  it  up  and  down.  A  number  of  sheiks  and 
dervishes  walkedbefore,  chanting,  in  a  low  voice,  a  lugubrious 
psalm,  which  consisted  entirely  of  the  ninety-nine  names  of 
God.  The  friends  marched  behind  in  a  sorrowful  manner, 
somti£»f  them  weeping  bitterly.  Having  carried  the  remains  to 
the  side  of  the  grave,  they  prayed  for  a  few  minutes  ;  the  inter- 
ment then  proceeded  without  a  coffin,  and  every  one  went  his 
way. 

When  the  corpse  is  laid  in  the  grave,  the  Koran  says  (and 
all  Mahometans  believe  it  most  firmly)  that  it  is  visited  by  two 
examiners,  two  black,  livid  angels,  of  a  terrible  appearance, 
named  Muuker  and  Nakir ;  these  make  the  dead  person  sit 
upright,  and  examine  him  concerning  his  fiiith  of  the  Koran; 
if  he'answer  rightly,  his  body  is  refreshed  with  the  air  of  para- 
dise ;  but  if  he  do  not,  they  beat  him  on  the  temples  with  iron 
maces,  which  make  him  roar  aloud  for  anguish.  They  then 
press  earth  on  the  corpse,  and  it  is  gnaw^ed  till  the  resurrection 
by  ninety-nine  dragons,  with  seven  heads  each.  The  interval 
between  death  and  the  resurrection  is  called  Alberzak,  and  is 
somewhat  analogous  to  the  Catholic  purgatory.  Mahomet 
says,  that  in  the  grave  every  part  of  the  body  is  consumed,  ex- 
cept the  coccyx  bone,  on  which  we  sit ;  this  serves  for  the  basis 
of  the  future  edifice.  And  when  the  last  judgment  comes,  he 
(Mahomet)  will  be  the  intercessor  for  mankind,  after  Jesus, 
Noah,  and  Abraham  have  declined  that  office,  and  only  sue 
for  their  ov/n  souls.  Both  good  and  bad  m.ust  then  pass  over 
the  bridge  (.4/  Siraf)  which  is  laid  over  hell;  and  here,  the 
bad  come  tumbling  down,  while  the  good  escape  unhurt.  And 
in  thjs  hell  there  are  seven  stories  ;  the  first  for  the  temporary 
punisliment  of  bad  Mahometans  ;  the  second  for  the  Jews ;  the 
third  for  the  Christians;  the  fourth,  fifth,  and  sixth,  for  the 
idolaters  ;  and  the  seventh,  and  v/orst  place,  for  the  hypocrites. 
The  infidels  are  to  be  damned  for  ever,  but  the  true  believers 
for  only  nine  hundred,  or  at  most,  seven  thousand  years. 

One' great  punishment  will  be  the  thinness  of  the  partition 
petwixt  hell  and  heaven,  allowing  the  damned  to  hear  the  con- 
27 


314  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

SWITZERLAND. 

versation  of  the  blessed.  The  torments  will  be  great  heat 
and  cold  ;  and  the  lightest  of  all  pain  will  be  to  be  shod  with 
shops  of  fin\  whose  fervor  will  cause  tlie  skull  to  boil  like  a 
caldron.  But  the  crood  will  t)e  immediately  refreshed  with  the 
rivers  of  paradise,  surrounded  by  as  many  cups  as  there  are 
stars  in  the  sky;  and  he  who  drinks  will  thirst  no  more.  This 
paradise  is  in  the  seventh  heaven;  its  earth  is  of  musk,  its  stones 
are  of  pearls,  its  walls  of  silver,  and  its  trees  of  gold  ;  the  fuiest 
tree  is  that  called  Tuba,  tlietree  of  happiness.  ItisinMahunjet's 
palace,  and  has  a  branch  spreading  to  the  house  of  every  true 
moslem ;  it  is  laden  with  delicious  fruit,  and  whatever  sort  a 
man  wishes,  it  jiresents  it  to  him.  The  boughs  bend  down  to 
liim  who  stretches  towards  them,  with  lisli  and  llesh,  ready 
dressed,  silken  garments,  and  ready  saddled  beasts.  This 
tree  is  so  large  that  a  fleet  horse  could  not  gallop  round  it  in 
a  hundred  years.  There  are  a  jnofusion  of  rivers  of  milk, 
wine,  and  honey:  fovmtains  and  streams  (»f  living  water,  whose 
pebbles  are  rubies,  whose  beds  are  camphor,  and  whose  sides 
are  saffron.  But  all  these  glories  will  be  eclipsed  by  the  re- 
sjilfudent  eyes  of  the  enchanting  girls  of  Paradise,  whose  com- 
pany is  the  principal  felicity  ofthe  faithful,  and  who  are  secluded 
from  jniblic  view  (for  they  are  of  surjirising  modesty)  in  pa- 
vilions of  hollow  pearls.  The  meanest  person  will  have  eighty- 
two  thousand  servants,  and  seventy-two  wives  of  these  black- 
eyed  houris,  besides  the  wives  he  had  in  this  world  ;  and  these 
blessings  he  will  enjoy  in  a  tent  of  vast  extent  of  jacinths  and 
emeralds.* 


to.  SWITZERLAND. 


Switzerland  embraces  twenty-two  cantons,  each  of  which 
has  a  se|)arate  constitution,  but  are  all  united,  like  the  United 
States  of  America,  in  a  confederacy  for  mutual  defence  and 
order.  In  length,  it  is  about  200  miles,  and  in  breadth,  130. 
Square  miles  about  19,000.  Its  i).)pulation  somewhat  exceeds 
2,000.000. 

Thp  Sivisx^  (I  iniirr  rrmuiks,hiiLf  the  brintlij  [haicomcs  from 
health  and  strength.  They  are  tall,  robust,  and  well  made. 
The  women  are  iironoiuiced  by  some  to  be  even  handsome; 
but  however  destitute  of  the  hfiaii  ideal,  they  are  modest,  frank, 
and  agreeable  in  conversation. 

IVie  national  character  ofthe  Swiss  has  deservedly  been  the 
subject  of  praise,  on  the  part  of  writers  of  every  kind.  Though 
th«'  country  consists  of  a  variety  of  States,  sdine  of  them  for- 
merly independent,  and  each  varying  in  institutions  and  man- 

♦  MaiiJcn's  Travels  in  Turkey  ond  Egypt. 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  315 

NATIONAL    CHARACTER. 

ners  somewhat  from  the  rest,  the  character  of  the  people  is 
almost  unvaried,  being  amiable  and  simple.  They  are  remarka- 
ble for  their  love  of  country,  a  feeling  certainly  common  to 
them  with  others,  but  which  they  seem  to  possess  to  a  degree 
altogether  unrivalled.  This  may  arise  in  no  small  degree  from 
the  romantic  features  of  their  native  land  ;  for  it  seems  to  be 
an  invariable  principle,  that  patriotism  is  strong  in  proportion 
as  the  country  to  which  it  refers  is  distinguished  by  such  fea- 
tures.    Goldsmith  has  well  said  : 

Even  the  loud  torrent,  and  the  whirlwind's  roar. 
But  bind  him  to  his  native  mouHtains  more. 

"  This  unconquerable  passion,"  says  Mr.  Pinkerton,  "seems 
to  arise  in  part  from  a  moral  sensibility  to  the  enchanting  ease 
and  frankness  of  the  native  manners;  and  in  part,  from  the 
picturesque  features  of  the  country,  the  verdant  hills  contrasted 
with  Alpine  snows,  and  delicious  vales  watered  by  transparent 
streams,  scenes  nowhere  else  to  be  discerned  in  such  perfec- 
tion, and  which  must  powerfully  affect  the  imagination, — the 
parent  of  the  passions."  The  Swiss,  indeed,  possess  this  pas- 
sion in  so  remarkable  a  degree,  that,  although  no  people  emi- 
.grate  more,  there  are  few  who  do  not  return  to  their  native 
Jand  to  lay  down  their  bones  beside  those  of  their  fathers. 
This  love  of  country  is  liable  to  be  excited  and  called  into 
action  by  circumstances  apparently  trifling.  Hence,  in  the 
French  armies,  composed  of  Swiss  mercenaries,  the  tune 
called  the  Ranee  des  Vaches,  which,  in  their  youth,  they  had 
heard  so  often  sung  by  the  Swiss  milkmaids,  when  they  went 
to  the  pastures,  was  carefully  interdicted,  because  it  melted  the 
rough  Swiss  soldier  into  tears,  and  not  unfrequently  led  to  de- 
sertion. The  Swiss  have  long  been  as  much  distinguished 
for  bravery  as  for  patriotism.  This  virtue  has  been  often 
eminently  and  successfully  displayed  in  maintaining  the  inde- 
pendence of  their  country ;  and  as  mercenaries,  they  are  re- 
garded as  forming  the  best  soldiers  in  Europe.  Like  other 
people  in  a  comparatively  rude  state  of  society,  they  are  fond 
of  traditions  and  of  ancestry,  and  feel  great  reverence  for  an- 
cient customs  and  mstitutions.  Their  love  of  freedom  is  ex- 
traordinary ;  and  they  are  always  ready  to  risk  or  sacrifice 
their  life  in  defence  of  it.  The  human  mind,  however,  says  a 
modern  writer  on  Switzerland,  is  made  up  of  so  many  con- 
tradictions, that  in  this  country,  where  liberty  has  been  estab- 
lished for  several  ages,  some  I'emains  of  the  worst  of  govern- 
ments are  suffered  to  continue;  justice  is  privately  adminis- 
tered, and  the  torture  is  still  in  use.  They  are  fond  of  labor, 
by  which  they  have  surmounted  every  disadvantage  of  soil 
and  climate,  and  have  spread  fertility  and  beauty  over  spots 
which  nature  seems  to  have  meant  for  everlasting  barren- 
ness. They  are  farther  characterized  by  great  siiTiplicity 
of  manners,  by  an  open  and  unaffected  frankness,  by  hos~ 


31G  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

SWITZERLAND. 

pitality,  honesty,  and  all  the  virtues  of  private  life.     Crime 
is  rare,  and  instances  of" capital  punislmient  seldom  occur. 

The  Swins,  in  pmeral,  are  not  given  inordinatrly  to  dress  ; 
yet  in  some  cantons  sumptuary  laws  have  been  framed  to  pre- 
vent idle  ornaments.  Dilferent  costumes,  the  origin  of  some 
of  which  is  very  ancient,  |)rev;iil  in  different  districts.  They 
have  little  round  hats  ;  coats  and  waistcoats  of  a  kind  of  coarse 
black  cloth;  breeches  of  coarse  linen,  somewhat  like  sailors' 
trousers,  but  drawn  toi^ether  in  plaits  holow  the  knees  ;  and 
stockings  of  the  same  sort  of  stuff.  The  women  wear  short 
jackets,  with  a  profusion  of  buttons,  and  jietticoats  reachingto 
the  middle  of  the  leg.  The  sleeves  of  the  under  garment  are 
full,  and  tied  above  the  elbows.  Unmarried  females  set  a  val- 
ue on  the  length  of  their  hair,  which  they  sejjarate  into  two 
divisions,  and  allow  to  hang  at  full  length,  braided  with  rib- 
ands. After  marriage,  these  tresses  are  twisted  round  the  head 
in  spiral  lines,  and  fixed  at  the  crown  with  silver  pins.  Both 
single  and  marrictl  women  wear  straw  hats,  ornamented  with 
biack  ribands.  Near  Bern,  the  hat  gives  place  to  a  strange 
looking  black  cap,  standing  off  the  face,  and  in  sliape  like  the 
two  wings  of  a  butterfly.  In  some  parts,  the  hair  is  platted, 
and  pierced  down  to  the  heels.  In  Appenzel,  the  modern  in- 
vention of  braces  is  nf)t  yet  adoptt;d  ;  the  dress  is  a  scanty 
jacket  and  short  breeches,  and  there  is  a  preposterous  interval 
between  the  two  garments,  which  the  wearer  nmkes  frequent 
but  ineffectual  hitches  to  close. 

Most  of  the  fionse.'i  in  Swilzcrland  are  l)uilt  of  wood,  with 
staircases  on  the  outside;  large,  solid,  and  compact;  and 
great  pent-house  roofs,  reaching  very  l<i\v,  and  projecting 
beyond  the  area  of  the  finindation.  This  peculiar  structure  is 
designed  to  keep  off  the  snow,  and  is  in  unison  with  the  beau- 
tiful wildnessof  the  country.  The  houses  of  tlie  principal 
burghers  are  of  the  same  n'laterials,  but  la)"ger.  Numerous  cot' 
tages,  called  c/ialuls,  built  on  the  sides  of^tlie  mountains,  are 
merely  wooden  hovels,  with  only  one  or  two  rooms  ;  and  some 
have  their  roofs  secured  by  no  other  fastening  than  the  pres- 
sure of  stones  laid  upon  th«'m.  Se\eral  of  these  rustic  dwell- 
ings are  situated  in  places  almost  inaccessible  to  any  but  a 
Swiss;  and  to  screen  them  from  the  effects  of  the  tremendous 
avalanche,  or  descent  of  mountain  snow,  they  are  commonly 
placed  beneath  some  towering  rock,  over  which  the  desolating 
ruin  shoots,  without  touching  the  huiiil)l{'  hut. 

Tiie  Swjss  cot(o<:i'.s  are  generally  fonucd  of  wood,  with  pro- 
jecting roofs  an  above  described,  covered  with  slates,  tiles,  or 
shingles.  A  few  small  enclosures  surround,  or  are  contiguous 
to  them,  son)e  of  which  are  watered  meadows,  others  dry  pas- 
ture; and  one  or  more  always  devoted  to  the  raising  of  oats, 
some  barley,  and  rye,  or  wheat,  for  family  consumption.  In 
the  garden,  which  is  large  in  proportion  to  the  farm,  are 
grown  hemp,  flax,  tobacco,  potatoes,  white  beets,  to  be  used 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  317 

VILLAGES — PUBLIC    BUILDINGS. 

as  spinage  and  asparagus,  French  beans,  cabbages,  and  tur 
nips.    The  whole  has  every  appearance  of  neatness  and 
comfort. 

The  villages  of  Switzerland  are  often  built  in  lofty  situations, 
and  some  so  high  as  5000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  It 
is  a  remark  of  Bakewell,  "  That  several  of  the  mountain  vil- 
lages, with  the  white  spires  of  their  churches,  form  pleasing 
objects  in  the  landscape  ;  but  on  entering  them  the  charm 
vanishes,  and  nothing  can  exceed  the  dirtiness  and  want  of 
comfort  which  they  present,  except  the  cabins  of  the  Irish." 
This  is  altogether  at  variance  with  other  writers.  Aspinsays, 
that  "the  cleanliness  of  the  people  and  of  their  houses,  is  pecu- 
liarly striking ;  and  altogether  their  manners  and  customs 
afford  strong  points  of  contrast  with  those  nations  which  labor 
under  the  oppression  of  despotism  and  tyranny."  "The 
meanest  cottage,"  he  adds,  "cannot  fail  to  impress  upon 
.the  observex  a  pleasing  conviction  of  the  peasant's  happi- 
ness." 

There  are  few  public  buildiv^.s  in  Switzerland  of  much 
architectural  grandeur.  The  lofty  terraces  at  Bern,  however, 
!have  a  very  imposing  look,  and  the  massy  arcades  here  and 
at  Bienne,  like  t-lie  arches  of  a  bridge,  and  on  which  the  houses 
are  built,  give  the  towns  a  strange  and  massy  appearance.  At 
Basle,  and  in  other  .places,  the  houses  are  adorned  on  the  out- 
.side  with  figures  of  the  sun,  a  bear,  hog,  or  other  aninaal ;  the 
ibllowing  is  an  example : 

Ell  Dieu  je  met  tout  mon  espoir, 
Et  je  demeure  au  cochon  noir. 

•   "All  my  hope  is  in  God  :  and  my  house  is  known  by  the  sign  of  the  black 
pig-" 

The  principal  subsistence  of  the  Swiss  is  derived  from  their 
flocks  and  herds.  Goats,  in  a  great  measure,  support  the 
poorer  class,  and  cows  supply  the  cheese  from  which  the  rich- 
er derive  their  little  wealth.  There  exists  a  custom  in  the 
mountainous  districts  of  Bern,  for  families  which  are  related, 
to  unite  together  in  making  a  common  cheese,  on  which  the 
names  of  such  a«  are  soon  to  be  married  are  carved.  This 
cheese  often  serves  for  the  marriage  of  their  descendants.  The 
kinds  of  cheese  most  celebrated  in  Switzerland,  are  the  ^SWiaft- 
zieger  and  Gruyere.  The  former  is  made  by  the  mountaineers 
-of  the  canton  of  Glurus,  and  in  its  gi'eatest  perfection  in  the 
valley  of  Kloen.  It  is  readily  distinguished  by  its  marble  ap- 
pearance and  aromatic  flavor,  both  produced  by  the  bruised 
leaves  of  the  melilot.  The  process  is  as  follows  : — The  cream 
having  been  completely  formed,  is  drained  off,  and  the  case- 
ous particles  are  separated  by  the  addition  of  some  sour  milk, 
and  not  by  rennet.  The  curd  thus  obtained  is  pressed  strong- 
ly in  bags,  on  which  stones  are  put;  when  sufficiently  pressed 
and  dried,  it  is  ground  to  powder  in  a  mortar,  salted  and  mixed 
27* 


318  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

SWITZERLAND. 

with  the  pressed  leaves,  or  the  bruised  seed  of  the  mehlot. 
The  merit  of  the  Gruyere  cheese  depends  chiefly  on  the  herb- 
age of  the  mountain  pastures,  and  partly  on  the  custom  of 
mixing  the  flowers  or  the  bruised  seed  of  the  mehlot  before  it 
is  pressed. 

The  inhabitants  also  eat  the  chamois  goat,  with  which  some 
of  the  forests  abound.  The  hunting  of  this  is  both  an  employ- 
ment and  an  amusement;  but  in  whatever  respect  it  is  regard- 
ed, it  is  full  of  danger.  The  wily  goat  is  at  perfect  ease  on  the 
most  giddy  and  slippery  precipice.  Often  must  the  hunter 
"climb  icy  barrit-rs,  where  a  slip  of  the  hand  or  foot  would 
precipitate  him  down  a  fathomless  abyss,  or  stand  in  a  gale 
upon  the  pinnacle  of  a  rock,  with  the  confldence  of  the  chamois 
itself,  where,  as  Gray  said,  a  goat  may  dance  and  scratch  an 
ear  with  its  hind  foot,  in  a  place  where  I  could  not  have  stood 
etill  for  all  beneath  the  moon." 

Trax-eUing  in  Switzerland,  has,  within  a  few  j'ears,  become 
quite  fashionable,  not  from  the  ease  with  which  its  valleys  and 
mountains  are  explored,  but  from  the  toil  and  danger,  at  the 
expense  of  which  its  Alpine  scenery  must  be  surveyed.  "With- 
in the  present  century,"  remarks  a  writer,  "there  were  no  inns 
in  the  mountains,  and  the  traveller  stopped  at  the  house  of  a 
clergyman  or  substantial  farmer.  The  roads  are  of  all  kinds; 
some  hard  and  smooth,  having  seats  and  fountains  at  regular 
distances  ;  but  more  are  impassable  to  carriages,  and  scarcely 
safe  for  the  sure  instinct  of  mules.  On  some  routes  there  are 
regular  post-coaches;  but  geniM'ally  the  traveller,  unless  he 
walks,  hires  his  own  conveyance.  In  the  mountains  a  char-a- 
banc  is  used,  a  light  carriage  of  two  flexible  bars  on  four 
wheels.  Two  or  three  people  sit  sideways  u|)on  the  bars,  and 
thc^river  sits  in  front.  There  is  but  one  horse.  Many  trav- 
•ellers  prefer  to  ex|ih<iT  Switzerland  on  foot,  a  cheaper  and  not 
less  exiTeditioils  mode  of  travelling." 

Ednrntinn  in  Svilzrrldnd  has  in  general  not  kept  pace  with 
the  spirit  of  the  time^.  Geneva,  howe\i'r,  is  distinguished  for 
its  schools.  The  only  university  in  Switzerland  is  at  Basle. 
At  Hofwyl.  near  Rern,  is  the  celebrated  school  of  M.  Fellen- 
berg.  This  is  a  maimal  lat)Or  school,  the  members  of  which 
go  out  every  morniu'.^  to  their  work  soon  after  sunrise,  having 
first  breakfasted,  and  received  a  lesson  of  about  an  hour  ;  they 
return  at  noon.  Dinner  takes  them  half  an  hour,  a  lesson  of 
one  liour  follows;  th«Mi  they  work  ap;ait)  till  six  in  the  evening. 
On  Sunday,  the  different  lessons  take  six  hours  instead  of  two ; 
and  they  have  butcher's  meat  on  that  day  only.  They  are  di- 
vided into  three  classes,  according  to  age  and  strength  ;  an 
entry  is  made  in  a  book  every  night  of  the  number  ol'  hours 
each  class  has  worked,  specifying  the  sort  of  labor  done,  in 
order  that  it  may  i)e  charged  to  the  proper  account,  each  par- 
ticular crop  having  an  account  opened  for  it,  as  well  as  every 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  319 

HUNGARIAN  STATES. 

new  building,  the  live  stock,  the  machines,  the  schools  them*- 
selves,  &c.,  &c.  In  winter,  and  whenever  there  is  no  out-of- 
doors  work,  the  boys  plat  straw  for  chairs,  make  baskets,  saw 
logs  with  the  cross-saw  and  split  them,  thrash  and  winnow 
corn,  grind  colors,  knit  stockings,  or  assist  the  wheelwright  and 
other  artificers,  of  whom  there  are  many  employed  in  the  es- 
tablishment. For  all  wiiich  different  sorts  of  labor  an  ade- 
quate salary  is  credited  to  each  boy's  class.  The  boys  never 
see  a  newspaper,  and  scarcely  a  book  ;  they  are  taught  viva 
voce  a  few  matters  of  fact,  and  rules  of  practical  application > 
the  rest  of  their  education  consists  chiefly  in  inculcating  habits 
of  industry,  frugality,  veracity,  docility,  and  mutual  kindnessj 
by  means  of  good  example,  rather  than  precepts  ;  and,  above 
all,  by  the  absence  of  bad  example.* 


11.  HUNGARIAN  STAGES. 

TJie  Hungarian  States  constitute  a  portion  of  the  Austrian 
empire,  and  consist  of  the  kingdom  of  Hungary,  with  the  prov- 
inces of  Sclavonia  and  Croatia,  the  principality  of  Transyl- 
vania, the  kingdom  of  Dalmatia,  &c.  The  inhabitants  of  these 
states  are  various,  Hungary  Proper  containing  no  less  than 
twelve  distinct  people,  or  nations. 

The  Hungarians  are  not  tall,  but  well-shaped,  active  and 
muscular;  they  are  also  brave,  of  a  sanguine  disposition,  rer 
vengeful,  and  more  addicted  to  arms,  martial  exercises,  and 
hunting,  than  to  arts,  commerce,  agriculture,  and  learning* 
Trade  and  manufactures  are  left  to  the  Greeks,  and  other 
strangers,  settled  in  the  country.  The  emperor  of  Austria  is 
king  of  Hungary;  but  he  is  here  less  absolute  than  in  his  ouier 
dominions.  The  nobility,  who,  in  the  cburt  language,  are 
alone  considered  the  Hungarian  jjeople,  have  many  and  great 
privileges,  which  they  watch  over  with  scrupulous  jealousy  j» 
but  the  lower  orders  are  in  a  most  abject  state  of  poverty,  deg- 
l"adation,  and  ignorance,  not  one  in  twenty  being  able  to  read; 
Various  languages  are  used  in  the  different  parts  of  the  coun- 
try ;  and  the  real  Hungarian,  which-is  said  to  be  of  Scythian 
origin,  has  very  little  affinity  with  any  European  language. 

Many  of  the  nobility,  who  are  very  numerous,  pass  their 
time  chiefly  in  hunting,  martial  exercises,  and  sensual  gratifi- 
cations. They  affect  much  pomp  and  magnificence,  and  par- 
ticularly delight  in  feasting.  The  costumes  are  various  and 
picturesque,  but  the  higher  classes  follow  somewhat  the  French 
and  German  fashions.  Their  dress  usually  consists  of  a  fur 
cap,  a  close-bodied  coat,  girt  with  a  sash,  and  a  cloak,  or 
mantle,  buckled  under  the  arm,  so  as  to  leave  the  right  hand 
at  liberty.     This  gives  them  an  air  of  military  dignity,  which 

*  Loudon, 


320  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

lUNGAHIAN   STATES. 

i«5  heightened  by  the  mustaches  worn  on  the  ujiper  lip:  the 
rest  of  the  beard  is  shaved  off.  Tlie  ladies  are  reckoned 
handsomer  than  those  i)f  Austria  ;  and  their  sable  dress,  with 
long  sleeves,  fitting  close  upon  the  arms,  and  stays  fastened  in 
front,  with  small  buttons  of  goJd,  pearl,  or  diamonds,  give 
them  a  graceful  aspect. 

The  appearance  of  tlie  peasants  is  wretched:  obliged  to 
work  like  slaves  for  the  lords  of  their  soil,  they  have  no  stimu- 
lus to  invention,  no  excitement  to  industry,  beyond  what  Ihey 
are  obliged  to  perform.  From  a  small  hut  covered  with  straw, 
falls  the  peasant's  long,  black,  matted  hair,  negligejitly  platted, 
or  tied  in  knots;  and  over  his  dhiy  jiicket  and  trousers  is 
wrapped  a  coarse  woollen  cloak,  or  a  sheepskin,  still  retaining 
its  wool.  In  summer,  as  well  as  in  winter,  on  the  Sunday,  as 
on  the  working  day,  he  keeps  on  this  covering;  and  is  never 
seen  but  in  heavy  boots.  In  all  the  habitations,  a  perfect  uni- 
formity of  design  is  observable.  A  village  consists  of  two 
rows  of  clay  cottages,  one  on  each  side  of  a  wide  muddy  road: 
the  roofs  are  covered  with  a  thick  thatch;  the  wails  are  white- 
washed, and  pierced  towards  the  road  by  two  small  windows. 
The  cottages  stand  a  few  yards  distant  from  each  other  ;  the 
intervening  space,  defiMided  by  a  rail  and  gate,  or  a  hedge  of 
wicker-work,  towards  the  road,  constitutes  the  farm-yard, 
which  runs  back  some  way,  and  contains  a  shed,  or  an  out- 
house, for  cattle.  The  interior  of  the  cottage  is  generally  di- 
vided into  three  small  rooms  on  the  ground  floor,  with  a  little 
space  in  the  roof  for  lumber.  The  door  opens  in  the  side  into 
the  middle  of  the  room,  or  kitchen,  wherein  is  a  clay-built 
oven,  and  various  implements  for  domestic  purposes,  which 
fully  occujiy  the  apartment.  On  one  side  of  the  kitchen,  a 
door  opens  into  the  family  sleeping-room :  here  are  the  two 
windf)ws,  which  look  into  the  road.  This  chamber  is  usually 
small,  but  well  arranged  ;  the  beds  are  piled  in  order,  one  upoa 
ihv  other,  to  be  spread  out  on  the  floor  at  night;  and  the  walls 
are  covered  with  a  multiplicity  of  religious  pictures,  together 
with  dishes,  plates,  and  vessels  of  coarse  earthenware.  On 
th(?  o|)posite  side  of  the  kitchen,  is  another  doov,  leading  to  the 
store-room,  in  which  are  deposited  the  greater  part  of  the  pea- 
sant's riches,  consisting  of  bags  of  grain  of  various  kinds,  blad- 
ders of  tallow,  sausages,  and  oilier  articlesof  jirovision  in  large 
(juantities.  The  yard.s,  or  lieldw,  between  the  houses,  are  much 
neglected,  and  th<^  foul  receptacles  of  thousands  of  uncleanly 
objects.  Light  carts  and  ploughs,  meager  cattle,  a  loose  rude- 
ly formed  l)(>ap  of  hay,  and  half  a  dozen  ragged  children, 
stand  there  in  mixed  confusion,  under  the  guardianship  of 
three  or  four  dogs  of  n  pecuUaj*  kind,  resembling  in  some  de- 
gl'ee  the  Newfoundland  breed. 

Intermingled  with  these  humble  dwellings  are  seen  the  mar- 
ble palaces  of  the  nobility,  towering  to  the  skies,  surrounded 
by  gardens,  fortresses,  and  terraces,  and  decorated  with  foun- 
tains, grottoes,  statues,   and   costly  pictures;    a  contrast  of 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  321 


COSTUMES — LANGUAGES. 


extreme  poverty,  with  extreme  riches  ;  and  "  a  certain  sign" 
says  a  German  baron,  "  that  one  part  of  the  inhabitants  live 
by  pillaging  the  other." 

"  The  costumes  arc  various  and  picturesque,  but  the  higher 
classes  follow  somewhat  the  French  and  German  fashions. 
The  common  dress  is  a  fur  cap,  a  close  coat  girded  with  a 
sash,  and  a  cloak,  from  which  the  right  arm  is  free.  This, 
with  the  mustache  on  the  upper  lip,  gives  the  Hungarian  a 
military  appearance.  The  feniales  dress  in  black  and  wear 
long  sleeves.  The  peasants  wear  a  calpac  or  felt  cap,  and  a 
large  woollen  cloak.  They  carry  a  wallet  on  their  shoulders^ 
and  generally  have  a  hatchet.  Thus  dressed  and  equip- 
ped, they  generally  sleep,  when  travelling,  in  the  open  air.  In 
Transylvania,  the  peasantry  have  nearly  the  ancient  Roman 
dress,  that  was  worn  by  their  class:  a  tunic  of  white  cloth 
belted  to  the  waste,  and  reaching  to  the  knee ;  trousers  in 
wide  folds  descending  to  the  ancles,  and  sandals  on  their  feet. 

"  Various  languages  are  in  use  in  Hungary,  but  the  most 
general  is  the  Hungarian,  a  dialect,  it  is  supposed,  of  the  Scy- 
thian and  the  Latin.  The  Latin  is  very  general,  and  much 
public  business  is  transacted  in  it.  It  does  not,  of  course,  re- 
tain all  its  classical  purity  among  a  people  more  given  to 
arms  than  arts:  and  the  memorable  shout  of  the  Hungarian 
nobility,  moriamur  pro  rege  nostro  Marie  Therese,  had  more  of 
heroism,  than  latinity.  In  Transylvania,  as  in  Wallachia,  the 
language  is  a  dialect  of  the  Latin. 

"There  is  little  that  is  peculiar  in  Hungary;  the  villages  are 
composed  of  small  houses,  with  ends  to  the  street,  and  all,  in 
pouit  of  shape,  exactly  alike.  In  Transylvania,  it  is  common 
in  some  places  to  have  a  homely  sentiment  written  over  the 
door,  as,  '  may  we  never  want  bread,  nor  the  freedom  to  enjoy 
our  domestic  comforts.' 

"Hungary  is  blessed  with  abundance,  but  commerce  affords 
few  outlets  to  her  productions.  In  Dalmatia,  on  the  contrary, 
some  of  the  inhabitants,  at  times,  are  compelled,  for  several 
months  in  the  year,  to  subsist  on  juniper  berries  and  wild  roots. 
Frogs  and  snails  are  eaten  in  Hungary;  and  rice  is  common 
there  and  in  Transylvania.  A  favorite  dish  with  the  common 
people  is  an  omelet  mixed  with  boiled  prunes  ;  in  other  re- 
spects the  diet  is  not  peculiar.  The  wines  of  Hungary  are  ex- 
cellent; some  of  the  sweet  wines  are  equal  to  the  Monte  Pul- 
ciano,  and  the  Tokay  is  generally  admitted  to  be  the  best 
v/ine  in  Europe.  The  grapes  are  not  pressed,  but  the  juice 
drips  into  vats  from  nets  suspended  above.  The  true  Tokay 
is  produced  but  in  a  small  district;  and  it  bears  an  enormous 
price.  As  its  excellence  is  much  increased  by  age,  it  has  been 
sometimes  sold  for  one  hundred  florins  a  bottle^  and  ten 
florins  is  a  common  price  for  a  bottle  containing  about  a  pint. 
The  Tokay  has  in  its  favor  'infallible'  testimony,  for  the  Pope 


322  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 


AUSTRIA,  BOHEAHA,  TIIE    TYROL,  &C. 


himself,  at  the  council  of  Trent,  was  sustained  by  the  council, 
in  pronouncino;  it  to  be  the  best  of  wines.  Considerable  (juan- 
tities  of  rosoglio  are  consumed,  and  also  of  Maraschino,  a 
cordial  made  of  acid  cherries.  These  are  madechiefly  in  Dal- 
matia,  where  there  is  distilled  also  a  spirituous  liquor,  from  the 
arbute  tree.  The  Dalmatians  are  given  to  excess  in  the  use 
of  spirituous  liquors.  Tobacco  is  universally  used  in  smoking, 
and  as  snuff. 

"  In  Hungary  there  arc  inns,  but  they  afford  little  besides 
shelter;  and  the  traveller  has  frequently  to  jiurchase  his  pro- 
visions at  tlie  lar^e  towns.  The  post-coaches  are  often  but 
carts,  and  generally,  the  facilities  iitr  travelling  are  few. 

"Hungary  may  be  considered  the  home  of  the  Gypsies,  but 
even  here  that  singular  race  have  the  same  restless,  wandering 
disposition  that  distinguishes  them  elsewliere.  They  are  the 
travelling  tinkers  and  musicians  ;  and  wlien  they  have  a  set- 
tled or  a  temporary  residence,  it  is,  in  summer,  a  cave  or  a 
tent,  and  in  winter,  a  hut  like  the  den  of  a  wild  beast,  from 
which  the  light  is  excluded.  The  most  usual  trades  followed 
by  the  Gypsies,  are  those  of  black  and  white  smiths,  though 
they  act  as  farriens,  carpenters,  and  tuiners.  They  are  uni- 
versally the  executioners  and  the  hangmen."* 


12.  AUSTRIA,  BOHEMIA,  THE  TYROL,  «tc. 

That  part  of  the  Austrian  empire  which  we  propose  at  this 
time  to  survey,  consists  of  a  number  of  States,  most  of  which 
have  distinct  constitutions  that  give  a  kind  of  modification  to 
the  absolute  monarchy  which  the  emperor  otherwise  pos- 
sesses. These  States  in  order,  are — 1,  The  Archdiitchy  of 
Austria;  2,  The  Dntchy  of  Styria  ;  3,  The  Kingdom  of  Iliyria; 
4.  The  Tyrol;  5,  The  Kingdom  of  Bohemia;  ti.  The  Mar- 
graviate  of  Moravia,  and  Austrian  Silesia;  7,  The  Kingdom 
of  Gaiicia. 

Thf  jKiprihition  hclonirln<r  to  these  several  States  is  conside- 
rably diversified.  In  Austria  I'rojier,  the  established  religion 
is  Roman  Cathoic,  but  all  sects  are  tolerated.  The  German 
hingunge  is  used  by  the  Austrians  ;  the  Sclavonic  is  spoken  in 
Bohemia,  Moravia,  and  Gaiicia.  Education  is  in  a  low  state. 
The  higher  classes  are  indeed  intelligent,  especially  at  Vienna, 
and  most  of  the  people  at  large  are  able  to  read  and  write. 
But  Austrian  lit<^ratnre  has  no  claim  to  cc-Ifbrity.  The  arts 
and  sciences,  except  nuisic,  are  infi-rior  to  those  of  many 
other  countries.  In  music,  the  names  of  Haydn  and  Mozart, 
who.se  powers  and  taste  were  formed  at  Vienna,  the  capital  of 
tbe  empire,  are  sufficient  to  establish  the  national  fame. 

♦  Goodrich's  Universal  GcoRraphy. 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  3a 

—*— ^i^"^— ^■^— —  .—        ■      - .  .      ■. —  -- —  ■  -■   ■  ■  ■  I  ^— — — ■— ^— — ^ 

CHARACTER  OP  THE  INHABITANTS. 

The  Austrians  are  ingenious  in  respect  to  mechanical  inven- 
tions, but  they  seem  disposed  to  direct  their  powers  to  gratify 
the  fancy  rather  than  to  promote  the  purposes  of  practical 
utility.  The  invention  of  a  machine,  or  puppet,  capable  of 
performing  the  functions  of  an  expert  chess-player,  or  of  one 
that  can  imitate  the  various  sounds  of  the  human  voice,  ap- 
pear to  be  more  within  the  compass  of  their  genius,  than  the 
lofty  conceptions  of  Fulton,  Whitney,  Watt,  or  Arkwright. 

The  Austrians,  generally  speaking,  are  a  handsome,  athletic 
race,  composed,  for  the  most  part,  of  German  materials,  but 
mixed  with  the  different  inhabitants  of  Hungary,  Italy,  and 
Bohemia.  Hence  the  darker  complexion,  bolder  features, 
blacker  eyes,  and  more  animated  expression  of  the  Austrian, 
than  of  the  German  countenance. 

The  Austrian  character  also  partakes  of  the  grand  German 
outline,  in  which  sincerity,  fidelity,  industry,  and  a  love  of  or- 
der, are  conspicuous ;  but  these  valuable  qualities  are  often 
counteracted  by  a  predilection  for  sensual  pursuits,  and  a 
bhnd  adherence  to  old  customs.  Their  sensuality,  however, 
never  enervates  them  ;  for  tliey  can  rush  from  the  ball  or  the 
banquet  into  the  field  of  battle,  and  there  enjoy  the  terrors  of 
war,  no  less  than  the  pleasures  from  which  it  has  called  them. 

With  great  physical  vigor,  and  ardent  love  of  pleasure,  are 
combined  the  most  astonishing  self-command,  forbearance, 
and  good  nature.  Quarrels,  even  among  persons  intoxicated 
with  spirituous  liquors,  scarcely  ever  attain  any  height,  even 
in  words  ;  blows  are  not  heard  of  in  many  towns  during  a 
whole  year ;  and  maiming  or  murder,  on  such  occasions,  is 
totally  unknown. 

The  Austrian  women,  in  point  of  beauty,  are  excelled  by  no 
females  in  Europe,  the  British  only  excepted;  in  manners, 
they  are  elegant,  and  in  conversation,  lively  and  well  informed. 
Previously  to  marriage,  they  enjoy  a  greater  degree  of  free- 
dom than  the  same  class  do  in  France,  and  some  others  of  the 
more  southern  countries  of  Europe;  and  subsequently  they 
are  as  distinguished  by  an  assiduous  fulfilment  of  all  the 
relative  duties  of  life.  Domestic  disquietudes  are  rare,  espe- 
cially among  the  lower  classes  ;  the  care  of  children,  habits 
of  labor,  and  attendance  on  divine  worship,  seem  to  occupy  all 
their  thoughts. 

Vienna,  the  capital  of  all  Austria,  is  the  centre  and  seat  of 
pleasure  and  amusement.  A  late  writer  has  pronounced  the 
inhabitants  of  this  city  to  be  "the  most  devoted  friends  of  jo- 
viality, pleasure,  and  good  living,  and  more  bitter  enemies  of 
every  thing  like  care  or  thinking,  a  more  eating,  drinking,  good- 
natured,  ill-educated,  hospitable,  and  laughing  peopte,  than 
any  other  of  Germany,  or,  perhaps,  of  Europe^"*  Their  cli- 
mate and  soil,  he  adds,  the  corn  and  wine  with  which  Heaven 
has  blessed  them  exempt  them  from  any  very  anxious  degree 

♦Russell's  Tourist. 


324  UNIVErxSAL  TRAVELLER. 


AUSTRIA,  BOHEMIA,    THE  TYROL. 


of  thought  about  their  own  wants ;  and  the  government,  with 
its  spies  and  police,  takes  most  cfn'ctii;)!  care  that  their  gayety 
sliall  not  be  disturbed  l)y  thinl<iny  oCtht^  j)ubiic  necessities,  or 
studying  for  the  pubhc  weal.  In  regard  to  themselves,  they 
are  distinguished  by  a  love  of  pleasure ;  in  regard  to  strangers 
by  great  kindness  and  hospitality.  It  is  dilficult  to  bring  an 
Austrian  to  a  downright  quarrel  with  you,  and  it  is  almost 
equally  ditficult  to  prevent  him  from  injuring  your  health  by 
good  living. 

In  Vienna,  with  three  hundred  thousand  inhabitants,  there 
are  thirty  hooksellcrs,  four  circulating  libraries,  sixty-live 
pianoforte  makers,  five  theatres,  and  dancing-halls  without 
number.  Many  of  these  dancing-halls  are  institutions  for  in- 
famous purposes.  They  l)elong  to  private  proprietors,  who 
are  always  inn-keepers.  On  the  evening  of  every  Sunday, 
and  generally  of  every  great  religious  festival,  when  every- 
Dody  is  idle,  and  seeking  amusement,  these  congregations  are 
oi)en  in  the  suburb.s,  as  well  as  in  the  city.  The  balls  given  in 
them  are  less  or  more  a  worthless  i)retext  for  bringing  worth- 
less persons  together.  The  price  of  admission  is  extremely 
low,  for  the  scoundrelly  landlord  speculates  on  the  consump- 
tion of  wine  and  eatables  during  the  evening.  In  more  cases 
than  one,  the  object  is  so  little  concealed  that  females  are  ad- 
mitted gratis.  It  is  thus  that  these  institutions,  by  furnishing 
opportunity,  and  inflaming  the  passions  at  so  cheap  a  rate, 
diffuse  the  poison  of  licentiousness  among  the  males  of  the 
middle  and  lower  orders. 

Austria  is  an  absolute  monarchy,  and  every  possible  means 
is  taken  to  secure  the  dependance  of  the  people  on  the  govern- 
ment, and  to  prevent  all  innovation  on,  or  discussion  of,  poli- 
tical institutions.  Yet  tli(>  laws  in  Austria  are  mild,  and  the 
administration  of  thcni  just.  During  the  Congress  of  Laybach, 
the  emperor  said  to  the  teachers  of  a  public  seminary,  "  I  want 
no  learned  men  ;  I  need  no  learned  men  ;  I  want  men  who  will 
do  what  I  bid  them,"  or  something  \n  the  same  pnr|)ose, — the 
most  unfortunate  words  (or  the  honor  of  his  tlinine,  that  could 
be  jiut  in  the  mouth  of  a  monarch.  The  |)iinciple  is  fully 
acted  on  in  Vienna  ;  over  all  knowledge,  and  all  thinking, 
on  every  thing  public,  and  on  every  thing  relating  to  the  politi- 
cal events  and  institutions,  not  only  of  the  empire,  lint  of  all 
other  countries,  tliere  brooiis  "a  darkness  which  may  be  felt;" 
nowhere  will  you  lind  a  more  lamentable  ignorance,  or  a  more 
melancholy  horror  of  being  suspected  of  a  cN\sire  to  be  wise 
alxive  what  is  written  down  by  tlie  erlitor  of  the  Austrian  Ob- 
server. .\oihing  id  known  but  to  oflicial  men  ;  and  the  first 
official  duty  is  to  confine  all  knowledge  within  the  official  cir- 
cle. Talk  to  a  Viennese  about  the  financf^s,  f  )r  examjile — 
^\'hat  is  the  amrnint  of  the  public  revenue  .'  I  don't  know. 
"What  is  done  with  it?  I  don't  know.  How  much  does  your 
army  cost?  I  don't  know.  How  much  does  the  civil  admin- 
istration cost?    I  don't  know.     What  is  the  amount  of  your 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  325 

AUSTRIAN   WOMEN VIENNA. 

public  debt?  I  don't  know.  In  short,  do  you  know  any  thing 
at  all  about  the  matter,  except  how  much  you  pay  yourself,  and 
-that  you  pay  whatever  you  are  ordered  ?  Nothing  on  earth.* 

The  'kingdom  of  Bohemiah  was  once  independent,  but  has 
^long  been  subject  to  the  emperor  of  Austria.  The  Roman 
Catholic  is  the  established  religion ;  and  although  the  Bohe- 
mians at  one  period  were  the  most  zealous  asserters  of  civil 
and  religious  liberty  in  Europe,  there  is  no  place  in  which  so 
-many  instances  of  superstition  are  met  with  as  at  Prague, 
their  capital.  The  corners  of  the  streets,  bridges,  and  public 
buildings,  are  ornamented  with  crucifixes,  iiiiages  of  the  Vir- 
gin, of  all  sizes  and  complexions,  and  of  saints  of  every  coun- 
trj',  condition,  and  sex.  Persons  are  seen  on  their  knees,  or 
prostrate  on  the  ground  befdre  these  statues,  offering  their 
•petitions  with  so  much  fervor  and  earnestness,  that  nothing 
short  of  a  heart  of  stone  in  the  object  of  their  devotion  could 
cause  them  to  depart  unblessed. 

The  language  of  Bohemia  is  a  dialect  of  the  Sclavonic  ;  and 
the  German  is  also  much  used.  Learning  is  at  a  low  ebb;  but 
manufacturing  industry  is  more  generally  diffused  in  this 
country  than  in  most  other  parts  of  the  Austrian  empire. 
.  In  Bohemia,  as  in  Eastern  Germany,  there  is  no  middle 
•class  of  society ;  every  lord  is  a  sovereign,  and  every  peasant 
a  slave. 

The  Bohemians  are  robust,  strong  made,  courageous,  active, 
and  cheerful.  Formerly,  they  were  distinguished  in  the  ar- 
mies of  Austria,  and  during  their  conflicts  for  religious  liber- 
ty, no  people  were  ever  more  brave  or  regardless  of  personal 
sacrifice.  Of  all  the  people  in  Germany,  the  Bohemians  are 
most  gifted  in  musical  talents.  .  Every  one  seems  to  be  born 
a  musician ;  he  takes  to  an  instrument  as  naturally  as  to  walk- 
ing or  eating,  and  it  gradually  becomes  as  necessary  to  him 
as  either.  In  summer  and  autumn,  one  cannot  walk  out  in 
the  evening  in  any  part  of  the  country,  without  hearing  con- 
certs performed  even  by  the  peasantry,  with  a  precision  which 
practice,  no  doubt,  always  can  give,  but  likewise  with  a  rich- 
ness and  justness  of  expression  which  practice  alone  cannot 
give. 

Tyrol,  which  lies  to  the  east  of  Switzerland,  strongly  resem- 
bles this  latter  country  in  its  physical  appearance.  Glaciers, 
of  which  some  are  several  leagues  in  extent,  and  avalanches, 
dismal  precipices,  and  lofty  foaming  cataracts,  abound  as 
much  here  as  in  the  country  to  which  we  have  compared  it. 

Except  in  the  low  grounds,  agriculture  has  made  little  pro- 
gress, though  much  labor  and  patience  have  been  expended 
in  extending  it.  The  natives  ascend  apparently  inaccessible 
heights,  carrying  manure  in  baskets,  to  gain  a  few  feet  of 

*  Russell's  Tourist. 
'28 


326  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

AUSTRIA,   BOHEMIA,  THE    TYROL. 

land,  and  devote  it  to  a<?ricultiire.  After  all,  however,  they 
are  obliged  to  import  corn.  The  ])OMels  of  the  earth  aro 
more  productive;  every  species  of  ore,  from  gold  to  coal,  be- 
inp;  found  there  ;  but  comparatively  few  aro  wrought.  Mineral 
sprint^s  are  common.  Vineyards  are  numerous,  particularly 
in  the  valley  of  the  Adij2;e.  The  natives  cultivate  fruit  trees; 
and  from  the  forest,  they  rear  silkworms,  and  export  raw 
silk.  The  transit  trade  between  Italy  and  Germany,  forms  ii 
most  extensive  and  lucrative  branch  of  commerce. 

They  are  a  singularly  ini/iistritm.s-  people.  They  cannot  be 
said  to  possess  any  manufactories,  but  every  Tyrolean  is  a 
manufiicturer.  There  is  little  divison  of  labor.  A  family  or 
an  individual  is  obliged  to  do  every  thing  for  himself,  else  his 
few  wants  could  not  be  easily  supplied.  And  recourse  is  had 
to  the  most  ingenious  modes  of  fabricating  the  articles  of  which 
they  stand  in  need.  "  Do  they  require  flour,  or  stand  in  need 
of  oil?  As  every  individual  provides  in  s<->me  respects  for  his 
own  wants,  there  are  neither  millers  nor  oil  mills;  but  at  the 
neighboring  stream,  the  corn  is  ground,  and  the  oleaginous 
plants  are  pressed."  A  German  traveller  observes,  "that,  to 
abridge  labor,  he  has  seen  a  child  rocked  in  its  cradle  by 
means  of  a  wheel  made  to  revolve  by  a  stream." 

The  people  have  a  thirst  for  independence  ;  and  if  they  can- 
not find  emjiloyment  at  home,  they  do  not  hesitate  to  emigrate 
to  other  countries  to  gain  a  livelihood.  Bavaria,  or  the  neigh- 
boring provinces,  wiiich  is  their  earliest  outlet,  do  not  satisfy 
them.  They  emigrate  to  the  most  distant  countries,  to  Eng- 
land, America,  or  the  East  Indies,  generally  as  pedlers,  selling 
petty  wares.  Thirty  thousand  are  calculated  to  leave  their 
native  land  annually.  They  return,  however,  in  old  age,  hav- 
ing amassed  a  little  stock,  to  enable  them  to  spend  the  even- 
ing of  their  days  in  comparative  independence.  The  music 
of^'the  Tyrolesc  has  been  long  celebrated  for  its  simple  and 
plaintive  character.  In  other  respects,  they  ar(>  distinguished 
by  the  characteristics  common  in  their  circumstances;  loyalty, 
Jove  of  country,  bravery,  frankness,  hospitality,  tmcorrupted 
morals,  sui)erstition.  religion.  They  are  all  Roman  Catholics, 
with  the  exce|)tion  of  oight  or  ten  Jewish  families.  Their  lan- 
guage is  German.  Tyrol  cannot  boast  of  a  university,  but 
there  are  various  Lyceums,  Gynuiasia,  and  other  seminaries, 
■where  every  branch  of  education  is  taught.* 


13.  GERMANY. 


,  Germany,  politically,  contains  thirty-three  stales,  besides 
four  cities,  which,  together  with  Austria  and  Prussia,  are  uni- 
ted in  a  confederation,  and  have  a  federative  diet,  in  which 

♦  New  Edinburgh  Encyclopcdi*. 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  327 

HANOVEUIANS SAXONS — BAVARIANS. 

all  the  states  are  represented,  and  by  which  their  affairs  are 
regulated  according  to  a  written  compact.  By  this  compact, 
the  states  agree  to  defend  each  other  from  foreign  hostihties — 
not  to  make  war  on  each  other,  but  to  submit  their  differences 
to  the  diet — not  to  contract  engagements  contrary  to  the  se- 
curity of  the  confederation — to  allow  full  religious  toleration 
to  the  citizens  of  every  state,  &c.  There  are  seventeen  votes 
in  the  diet,  each  of  the  larger  states  having  one,  and  two  or 
more  of  the  smaller  states  united  in  the  exercise  of  a  single 
vote.     Austria  presides  in  the  diet. 

Confederate  Germany  contains  a  population  exceeding 
thirty  millions,  but  excluding  Austria  and  Prussia,  Germany 
contains  something  more  than  twelve  millions.  The  principal 
of  the  German  States  are  Bavaria,  Saxony,  Hanover,  Wurtem- 
burg,  Baden,  Holstein,  Hesse  Darmstadt,  and  Hesse  Cassel. 
Thus  separated  into  distinct  commvmities,  some  variety 
may  be  supposed  to  exist  among  the  Germans,  but  the  dif- 
ferences are  less  than  a  stranger  would  anticipate.  In  gen- 
eral, the  Germans  are  hardy  and  robust,  with  light  hair  and 
complexions,  and  blue  eyes,  especially  in  the  north.  The 
personal  appearance  of  the  inhabitants  of  some  of  the  princi- 
pal states,  may  here  be  more  particularly,  but  briefly  noticed. 
The  Hanoverians  are  represented  as  tali,  fair,  and  well 
made.  The  women  have  fine  complexions,  fair  hair,  and  in 
many  instances,  a  delicacy  of  feature  and  symmetry  of  form, 
that  would  rival  the  greatest  beauties  of  other  countries. 
They  have  a  touching  voice,  and  are  modest,  but  less  timid 
than  English  women,  oecause  less  accustomed  to  meet  their 
superiors  among  the  men. 

The  Saxons  bear  a  general  resemblance  to  the  other  Ger- 
mans, but  are  more  lively  and  animated.  The  men  are  robust, 
and  frequently  well  made;  and  the  wqmen  are  often  hand- 
some, with  fair  complexions,  blue  eyes,  and  a  sprightliness  of 
expression  in  their  countenances,  which  is  not  very  common 
with  German  females.  Their  likeness  to  the  English  is  much 
greater  than  in  most  other  parts  of  the  continent. 

The  Bavarians  are  stout  and  vigorous,  well  adapted  to  bear 
the  fatigues  of  war,  and  in  general  are  good  soldiers.  Many 
of  the  women  are  handsome,  lively,  and  graceful ;  but  their 
charms  are  merely  personal:  mental  cultivation  is  at  a  very 
iow  ebb  among  them;  and  they  are  strongly  addicted  to 
pleasures  and  trifling  pursuits. 

The  German  houses  are  said  by  travellers  to  exceed  in  com- 
fort any  other  in  Europe.  Few  carpets  cover  their  floors. 
But  there  is  generally  in  the  winter  season  a  good  stove, 
which  sends  forth  its  warm  and  agreeable  heat.  The  German 
beds,  however,  are  far  less  comfortable  than  those  which  the 
traveller  finds  in  France.  They  are  universally  narrow, 
adapted  to  a  single  person,  and  so  short  that  it  is  frequently 
necessary  to  splice  them.    "  As  soon  as  the  frost  makes  its 


328  UMVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

GERMANY. 


appearance,"  observes  Mr.  Dwight  in  his  Travels,*  "  the  land- 
laily  surprises  you  with  another  bod,  which  she  carries  into 
your  room,  and  throws  it  ujion  tlie  top  of  yours,  as  a  substi- 
tute for  blankets.  As  this  is  never  more  tlian  tive  feet  long', 
all  the  sons  of  Anak,  of  the  present  generation,  must  splice 
tJiis  also,  or  have  a  part  of  the  body  in  the  tropics,  and  the 
rest  in  a  polar  atmosphere.  As  it  is  impossible  to  move  in 
your  sleep  wirhout  the  bed  or  the  blankets  rolling  off,  it  is 
necessary  to  fasten  them  down  with  an  additional  covering 
largo  enough  to  embrace  them  all.  Completely  to  arrange 
your  bed  for  repose  at  night,  (for  the  danger  of  every  thing 
above  you  being  thrown  olF  l)y  the  tirst  motion,  is  so  great, 
that  you  are  unwilling  to  trust  your  servant  without  ocular 
examination.)  requires  as  much  time  as  was  necessary  some 
thirty  months  since,  to  tack  about  our  good  ship,  the  Lewis, 
when  t)eating  against  a  head  wind.  In  fact,  there  is  so  littlu 
comfort  here  at  niiilit,  that  as  midnight  approaches,  you  wish 
yourself  in  Paris,  ni  Italy,  or  in  the  moon  ;  while,  as  soon  as 
you  arise,  the  genial  temperature  of  your  room  enables  you 
to  forget  all  these  evils.  They  tell  a  story  of  an  Irishman 
ti'avelUng  some  winters  since  in  Germany,  who,  seeing  anoth- 
er bed  placed  above  his  own,  concluded  that  it  must  be  the 
custom  here  to  sleep  in  layers,  one  above  another.  As  no  one 
came,  he  rang'  the  bell,  and  directed  the  servant  to  tell  the 
gentleman  wlio  w  as  to  lie  on  top,  that  being  very  sleepy,  he 
would  thank  him  to  come  soon  to  bed,  as  ho  did  nut  like  to  ba 
disturbed  after  he  had  fallen  asleep." 

The  Germans  are  exceedingly  fond  of  titles.  Among  the 
nobility,  there  are  four  classes,  viz. :  Prince,  Count,  Baron,  and 
Herr  Von.  The  latter  corresponds  to  the  French  De.  In 
addressing,  for  example,  a  Count,  you  would  say,  to  the  High 

VVeU-horn  Count,  Count  nf .     If  you  address  a  citizen,  you 

direct  to  the  wfll-horn  Mr.,  Mr.  S.,  citizen.  If  you  address  a 
letter  to  a  mechanic,  you  direct  to  tite  re-tpecttihlij  well-bom 

Mr.,  Mr. ,  tt/ilor,  or  .thoemaker.     To  a  peasant  you  say,  to 

the  tolerably  born  Air.,  Mr. ,  peasant. 

If  yf)n  inquire  after  a  ProP-ssor,  Doctor,  Lawyer,  or  Minis- 
ter, you  prejix  to  each  of  tliese  titles  the  name  Mr.  Should 
you  inquire  for  the  ladies  of  these  gentk-men,  you  ask  for  Mrs. 
or  the  Lady  Professores.s,  or  the  Lady  Lawyeress,  &,c. 

In  Prujisia,  when  two  j)ersons  are  engaged  to  be  married, 
the  engagi'Mient  is  announced  in  a  public  newspap(^r.     Thus: 

"  I  have  the  honor  respi-ctfully  to  give  notice  of  the  betroth- 
ing of  my  only  daughter,  to  Mr.  P***  of  Newstead,  Judge  of 
the  domain. 

Signed,     The  widowed  Counselloress  of  Justice  R*** 
As  betrothed  present  their  remembrance  to  Amelia  R*** 

Edwahd  P***" 

♦  Travels  in  the  north  of  Germony,  by  Henry  E.  DwighU 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  329 

■ ^^w 

MANNERS   AND    CUSTOMS. 

Among  the  Prussians  also  the  marriage  of  two  persons  is 
formally  announced,  and  even  the  birth  of  a  child  finds  its 
way  as  a  matter  of  public  intelligence  into  some  neighboring 
gazette. 

In  the  north  of  Germany^  when  a  person  is  sick,  a  book  is 
laid  on  the  table  in  the  hall,  in  which  is  recorded  morning  and 
evening,  the  state  of  the  patient.  The  friends  who  call  to  in- 
quire after  his  health,  seldom  see  any  of  the  family,  but  gather 
from  the  book  the  intelligence  which  they  desire.  In  order  to 
apprize  the  family  of  their  call,  they  write  their  names  under 
the  morning  or  evening  bulletin. 

The  Germans,  though  they  have  frequent  quarrels,  seldom 
come  to  blows.  A  war  of  words  is  common  ;  if  a  blow,  how- 
ever, happens  to  be  struck,  no  atonement  is  sufficient  for  the 
insult,  but  the  blood  of  the  aggressor.  The  following  illustra- 
tion of  this  false  sense  of  honor  is  given  upon  the  authority  of 
the  author  of  Travels  in  the  North  of  Germany.  "A  lady  at 
one  of  the  public  balls,  having  dropped  her  bracelet,  an  officer 
of  her  acquaintance  who  observed  it,  took  it  up,  and  put  it  in 
his  pocket,  with  the  intention  of  calling  upon  her  the  next  day 
and  presenting  it  to  her.  A  goldsmith,  who  happened  to  be 
present,  immediately  accused  him  of  pocketing  it  with  the  in- 
tention of  keeping  it.  To  punish  him  for  this  insult,  he  called 
at  the  shop  the  next  day,  and  boxed  his  ears.  The  servant 
of  the  goldsmith  soon  coming  to  his  assistance,  they  succeed- 
ed in  overpowering  the  lieutenant,  and  after  beating  him, 
pushed  him  out  of  the  door,  and  threw  hii^  sword  after  him. 
As  this  occurred  in  one  of  the  principal  streets,  at  11  o'clock, 
A.  M.,  it  was  impossible  to  conceal  it,  or  prevent  its  soon 
spreading  over  the  city.  He  had  now,  as  he  thought,  only 
three  courses  to  pursue ;  to  leave  the  army,  and  remain  in 
perpetual  disgrace,  for  if  he  retained  his  place,  all  the  officers 
of  his  regiment  would  send  in  their  resignations ;  to  seek 
his  fortune  in  a  foreign  country ;  or  to  shoot  himself  The 
first  his  feelings  would  not  allow;  the  second  he  could  not 
do.  as  he  was  without  resources  ;  he  therefore  concluded  to 
do  the  last;  and,  about  fifteen  mhiutes  after  the  event  occur- 
red, he  entered  his  room,  loaded  his  pistols,  and  shot  himself" 

It  is  customary  among  friends  in  Germany  to  kiss  one  an- 
other when  meeting  and  separating,  and  this  custom  extends 
to  the  gentlemen  as  well  as  the  ladies.  Owing  to  the  enormous 
mustaches  which  the  men  wear,  the  kissing  operation  is  some- 
times a  matter  of  no  small  difficulty.  In  some  countries,  as  . 
in  France,  to  kiss  the  lips  of  a  lady  is  considered  indelicate; 
but  in  Germany  this  is  quite  common.  Usually  on  meeting, 
friends  embrace,  by  throwing  their  arms  round  each  other, 
and  mutually  salute. 

Economy  among  the  Germans,  both  as  to  money  and  time, 
is  a  striking  trait,  even  while  engaged  in  amusements.    A  shil- 
ling or  two  will  pay  all  the  expenses  of  a  family  at  these  en- 
tertainments, for  most  of  them  drink  nothing  but  beer.    As 
28* 


330  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 


GERMANY. 


soon  as  they  have  taken  their  seats  in  an  arbor,  the  mother 
and  daii2:hters  unroll  their  half-linished  stockino;s,  and  knit 
away  witli  an  ardor  that  almost  leads  you  to  bQlieve  you  are 
in  a  school  of  industry,  rather  than  a  place  of  festivity.  There 
is  sometliincj  almost  ludicrous  in  this  attachment  of  the  Ger- 
mans to  knittinf^.  To  see  fifty  or  a  hundred  -rirls,  half  hid  in 
arbors,  with  bright  rosy  cheeks  and  lau^'hinp;  eyes,  busily  en- 
gajjed  in  taking  up  stitches,  and  makina;  the  circuit  of  their 
stockings,  while  as  many  young  fellows  are  rallying  them,  or 
perhaps  saying  things  almost  unutterable,  is  a  spectacle  which 
is  visible  in  no  country  hut  Germany.  This  custom  is  not 
confined  to  the  middling  classes.  Even  the  daughters  of 
herr  vons  and  l)arf)iis  may  be  seen  thus  occupied  with  huge 
stockings  dangling  at  their  lingers. 

As  a  counterpart  to  the  industry  of  the  females  in  the  above 
particular,  is  the  smoking  propensity  of  the  other  sex.  A 
German  may  be  almost  said  to  be  born  with  a  pipe  in  his 
month  ;  at  least  he  is  seldom  vithout  one  after  he  is  born.  It 
is  their  constant  companion  while  at  home  and  abroad.  The 
peasant  as  commonly  takes  his  pipe  to  the  field  as  the  tools 
with  which  he  labors,  and  often  labors  as  diligently  with  the 
one  as  the  other. 

Dancing  is  a  favorite  and  a  common  amusement.  It  is  re- 
marked by  Mr.  Dwight  that  the  Germans  have  a  stronger  at- 
tachment to  this  exercise  than  even  the  French.  Royal  per- 
sonages do  not  dance,  but  pnlnnniffe  in  a  light  airy  step  be- 
tween a  dance  and  a  walk.  The  waltz  is  a  national  dance, 
and  originated  in  this  country.  Often  in  the  same  dance, 
mothers  unite  with  daughters,  and  fathers  with  sons.  In  their 
motions  the  Germans  are  less  graceful  than  the  Fiench. 

Another  amusement  which  is  highly  valued  in  Germany  is 
the  chase.  This  however  is  confined  to  the  royal  family  and 
the  nobility.  The  right  of  the  chase  is  vested  in  the  king,  or 
in  those  who  have  purchased  the  privilege.  No  one  who  has 
not  purchased  the  right,  not  even  an  invited  companion,  may 
at  anytime  shoot  an  animal.  The  chase  of  the  wild  boar  is  a 
favorite  amusement  of  the  German  princes.  On  such  occa- 
sions they  are  usually  attended  by  a  large  cavalcade  of  coaches, 
who  are  expect<*d  to  witness  the  monarch's  prowi'ss.  That 
prowess  is  usually  displayed,  when  at  length  the  huntsman 
has  worn  out  and  wounded  the  exhausted  animal,  by  hia 
alighting  from  his  charger  and  taking  a  long  knife,  with  which 
he  pierces  the  yet  palj)itating  lieart  of  his  victim. 

The  followine  are  the  remarks  of  the  writer,  whom  we  have 
had  occasion  to(piote,  respecting  the  f//ri'o.s'//v  of  the  (Jermans; 
and  from  their  imiuisitive  propensities  it  may  well  be  inferred 
that  the  dis|)osition  to  ask  questions  touching  one's  country, 
profession,  &,c.,  is  not  wholly  confined  to  tlie  Yankees.  He 
says,  "I  hav(!  never  held  five  mituites  conversation  with  a 
Frenchman  or  Italian,  at  least  with  those  of  the  middle  class 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  331 

maUISITIVENESS — MUSIC. 

of  society,  without  being  questioned  as  to  my  country,  my  oc- 
cupation, &c.  In  Germany,  these  questions  are  put  to  you 
less  frequently,  but  still  so  often  as  to  remind  you  that  inquisi- 
tiveness  is  not  confined  to  our  villages.  The  form  of  address 
is  always  the  same,  You  are  an  Englishman  I  suppose  '?  No. 
A  Scotchman,  perhaps?  No.  You  must  be  an  Irishman, 
then?  I  am  not.  You  are  not  a  Frenchman?  Certainly 
not.  Are  you  an  Italian  ?  No.  You  must  be  an  English- 
man, then?  I  never  was  in  England.  Are  you  a  Spaniard, 
or  Portuguese?  No.  You  are  neither  Greek  nor  Turk?  No. 
Oh!  I  know  now;  you  are  a  Russian?  I  have  never  been  in 
Russia.  Are  you  from  the  north  of  Europe  ?  I  am  not.  You 
must  be  an  Asiatic,  then?  I  have  never  seen  Asia.  You 
cannot  be  an  African?  No.  By  this  time  they  arrive  at  the 
ultima  thule  of  their  recollection,  and  looking  round  at  their 
companions,  if  there  are  any  present,  with  an  expression  of 
wonder,  and  then  at  me,  with  a  gaze  of  astonishment;  they 
either  declare  that  I  am  from  the  moon,  or  with  great  earnest- 
ness  inquire  from  what  part  of  the  world  I  have  come.  Some- 
times I  tell  them  that  I  have  come  from  the  moon,  which  they 
seem  half  inclined  to  believe;  or  when  I  mention  my  country, 
they  exhibit  as  much  surprise  as  if  a  lunarian  had  really  de- 
scended to  the  earth." 

Next  to  the  Italians  the  Germans  are  the  most  successful 
cultivators  of  music.  For  eminent  composers  they  are  per- 
haps unrivalled.  Their  musical  compositions  are  more  la- 
bored than  those  of  the  Italians,  and  imbody  more  science. 
Fully  to  appreciate  the  higher  orders  of  German  music,  a 
cultivated  taste  is  essential,  but  to  those  who  are  capable  of 
appreciating  its  excellence,  it  is  a  source  of  the  highest  enjoy- 
ment. Both  in  Russia  and  Austria,  military  music  is  carried 
to  the  highest  perfection.  In  vocal  music  the  Italians  are 
thought  by  some  to  excel  the  Germans,  but  the  latter  are  de- 
cidedly superior  to  the  French,  and  indeed  to  all  the  northern 
nations  of  Europe.  In  several  parts  of  Germany,  particularly 
in  Saxony,  and  in  some  of  the  districts  of  Bohemia,  peasants 
may  be  found  who  are  accomplished  practitioners  on  the 
guitar  and  piano.  Almost  every  large  city  supports  several 
bands  of  music,  and  in  most  of  the  towns,  singing  boys  are 
wholly  or  partially  maintained  by  the  citizens  to  sing  at  fune- 
rals and  at  public  worship. 

Among  the  most  celebrated  German  composers  may  be 
ranked  Handel,  Haydn,  Mozart,  Beethoven,  Weber,  Spontini, 
and  Spohr.  Of  these,  Mozart  is  considered  the  prince ;  Bee- 
thoven ranks  next.  This  eminent  man  is  still  living,  and 
strange  as  it  may  seem,  is  so  deaf  that  no  music  strikes  his 
ear  besides  the  loud  swell  of  the  military  bands,  or  that  of  the 
orchestra. 

In  painting  and  sculpture  the  Germans  do  not  compare  with 
some  other  nations,  but  their  literature  is  rich.    Few  if  any 


332  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 


GEHMANY. 


countri«^s  liave  furnislnxl  men  of  greater  intellectual  wi^alth 
than  PufTendorf.  Klopstock,  Wieland.  Schiller,  Goethe,  Kich- 
ter,  Lessine,  Leibnitz,  Werner,  Ht-rder,  the  Schlegels,  Eichorn, 
Kant,  HumiDoldt,  Ilerschel,  and  Kepler. 

"//t  the  means  of  educalion,  the  north  of  Germany  far  sur- 
passes every  other  country.  The  Protestant  States  are  more 
enlisrhtened  than  the  Catholic,  and  in  Saxony  there  is  hardly 
a  peasant  that  cannot  read  and  write.  In  Prussia,  there  are 
upwards  of  20.000  eleinent;uy  schools.  The  pymnasia  of  the 
north  of  Germany  are  celebrated  ;  they  are  schools  prepara- 
tory to  the  universities ;  but  the  studies  pursued  in  them  are 
equal  to  those  of  the  universities  in  some  countries.  The 
"Cymnastic  exercises  are  pursued  in  some,  thoutrh  in  the  most 
they  are  discontinued.  The  universities  of  Germany  are  the 
best  in  the  world.  They  have  students  from  every  European 
nation,  and  from  America.  The  university  of  Gottingen, 
thouirh  it  has  been  established  but  about  a  century,  holds  the 
first  rank  ;  but  the  universities  of  15(Mlin,  Jena,  Halle,  and  Leip- 
zig, are  celebrated.  In  182(3,  tliere  were  in  the  German  uni- 
versities, 13.295  students,  and  927  in.structors.  At  Berlin, 
there  were  1526  students,  at  Halle,  1119,  at  Gottin<j;en,  1545, 
and  at  Leipzier,  1381.  The  smallest  number  out  of  20  univer- 
sities, was  214.  The  instructions  are  given,  in  a  great  meas- 
ure, by  lectures,  and  one  professor  often  lectures  on  several 
subjects.  The  libraries  are  the  best  and  most  extensive  in  the 
world  ;  and  any  student  may  take  out  many  books  at  a  time, 
a  hundred  if  he  will.  The  libraries  contain  all  that  is  valua- 
i)le  in  ancient  or  modern  science.  The  library  at  Gottingen 
contains  300,000  volumes,  all  collected  in  less  than  a  century. 
North  of  tlie  Mayne,  it  is  difficult  to  travel  for  a  day  without 
finding  a  library;  at  Carlsruhe,  is  one  of  70,000  volumes ;  at 
the  distance  of  a  few  hour's  ride,  is  another,  at  Heidelberg,  of 
•30.000  volumes.  At  the  distance  of  30  miles,  is  a  third,  at 
Darmstadt,  of  90.000  volumes  ;  at  Mentz  is  another  of  90,000, 
and  another  still  at  Frankfort,  of  100.000.  Thirty  miles  from 
Frankfort,  is  a  small  lil)rary  of  20.000  volumes,  but  at  Mar- 
burg. 20  miles  further,  is  one  of  .55,000.  At  Cassel,  the  library 
contains  70,000  volumes,  and  from  this  town  the  traveller  may 
arrive  in  a  day  at  Gotfingen,  where  he  finds  a  collection  of 
300,000  books  ;  and  at  ^V'(^Ifenbuttel,  about  forty  miles  distant, 
is  another  of  200.000.  At  Hamburg  are  two  libraries,  one  of 
25,000,  the  other  of  80,000  volumes.  At  Weimar,  is  another 
library  of  95.000  volumes  ;  and  at  Jena,  a  second  of  30,000. 
Dresden  has  one  of  250,000  volumes  ;  Berlin  another  of  150,000, 
and  Munich  one  of  the  greatest,  400.000.  Thirty-one  libra- 
ries in  Germany  contain  more  than  3,300,000  volumes,  or  on 
an  average,  107,000  each.  The  thirty-one  largest  libraries  in 
the  United  States,  do  not  contain  250,000  volumes, 

"The  Germans  are  ind<'fatigable  students,  and  many  of  the 
learned  have  devoted  fifteen  hours  daily,  to  study.     The  stu- 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  333 

DUELLING. 

dents  at  the  Universities  have  many  pecuHarities.  Their  dress 
is  affectedly  uncouth,  and  it  is  worn  with  negligence.  The 
coat  is  shapeless,  the  hair  is  worn  long,  and  a  wide  shirt-collar 
is  turned  over  the  shoulders.  Boots  are  always  worn,  and  to 
these  are  fixed  spurs  of  enormous  dimensions.  One  or  more 
rings,  as  large  as  watch-seals,  generally  adorn  the  fingers,  and 
no  student,  in  fi,ill  dress,  is  without  a  ruffle  of  unreasonable 
length,  though  they  have  no  snirts.  This,  with  a  pipe,  four  or 
five  feet  in  length,  completes  the  equipment. 

"  The  mustache  is  permitted  to  grow  several  inches  long,  and 
is  twisted  to  a  point.  The  students  call  themselves  Burschen^ 
or  'young  fellows,'  par  excellence,  and  the  townspeople  they 
call  Phihstines.  The  students  in  the  north  of  Germany  are 
great  consumers  of  beer ;  and  those  of  the  south,  are  no  less 
devoted  to  wine.  In  their  evening  potations,  each  one  has 
several  tankards  set  before  him,  sometimes  as  many  as  nine, 
so  that  a  line  of  students,  on  each  side  of  a  table,  may  look 
down  upon  eighteen  rows  of  tankards.  In  the  south  the  Bur- 
schen  songs  are  in  praise  of  wine,  but  in  the  north,  they  cele- 
brate the  virtues  of  beer.     The  following  is  a  stanza  ^ 

'Come,  brothers,  be  jovial,  while  life  creeps  alonp:, 
Make  the  wail?  ring  around  us,  with  Inushter  and  song; 
Though  wine,  it  is  true,  be  a  rarity  here, 
We'll  be  jolly  as  gods  on  tobacco  and  beer. 
Vivallerallerallera.' 

"The  Students  unite  in  clubs,  called  Landsmannschaft,  com- 
posed of  those  of  the  same  country  or  district,  and  their  club  is 
generally  indicated  by  the  color  or  trimming  of  the  cap.  They 
pay  a  few  dollars  on  entering,  for  the  expenses  of  the  club ; 
though  the  money  thus  raised  is  generally  applied  to  the  pur- 
chase of  duelling  apparatus,  and  each  Landsmannschaft  has  a 
complete  armory.  Duelling  may  be  said  to  be  universal ;  of 
course  it  is  not  attended  with  much  peril.  It  is  an  example 
of  moderation  to  have  passed  several  years  at  a  university 
without  a  duel.  The  party  challenged  has  not  the  privilege 
of  choosing  his  weapons  ;  he  must  fight  according  to  the  es- 
tablished mode.  The  weapon  is  a  straight  sword,  about  three 
feet  in  length,  with  a  double  edge  near  the  point  that  will  cut 
both  ways.  The  combats  are  generally  held  in  rooins,  and 
few  of  them  are  fatal.  A  few  friends  and  a  surgeon  are  pres- 
ent, with  the  two  seconds,  and  an  umpire  chosen  by  them.  The 
hands  and  arms  are  covered  with  thick  gloves,  and  a  stuffed 
leathern  breastplate  completely  protects  the  body.  The  face 
only  is  exposed.  For  a  trifling  offence  twelve  blows  are  struck, 
and  if  no  blood  is  drawn,  the  parties  shake  hands  and  sepa- 
rate. For  a  greater  offence,  blood  is  to  be  drawn;  on  its  first 
appearance,  the  umpire  orders  a  suspension  of  hostilities,  and 
the  surgeon  examines  the  wound.  If  it  be  two  inches  in  length, 
and  opens  of  itself  one  fourth  of  an  inch,  enough  has  been  done 
for  glory,  and  the  parties  are  reconciled.    The  seconds  are 


^ 


334  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 


GEHMANY. 


dressed  like  the  combatants:  they  stand  by  the  side  of  their 
principals,  and  are  permitted  to  ward  off  tfie  blows.  The 
combatants  sometimes  lose  an  eye  or  a  nose,  many  have  scars 
in  their  faces,  and  some  are  miserably  hacked. 

"The  Landsmann^chaft  are  the  nurseries  of  duelling;  each 
club  being  exceedingly  tenacious  ofits  own  dignity.  Fencing, 
very  improperly,  makes  a  part  of  the  university  instruction. 
All  the  details  of  the  duel  are  fixed  in  the  Camnieiit,  or  Bur- 
schen  Pandects."* 

The  mode  of  travelUv!;  in  Germany  by  public  conveyance, 
both  in  respect  to  speed  and  expense,  is  inferior  even  to  that 
of  France,  and  altogether  so  to  that  of  England  and  Amer- 
ica. The  Scliuellnniren,  which  is  the  quickest  carriage,  ac- 
commodates but  six  persons  inside  and  two  out,  and  usually 
proceeds  but  six  miles  an  hour.  In  some  parts,  coaches  go 
but  little  more  than  three  miles  an  hour.  Trunks,  and  other 
baggage,  are  conveyed  in  a  species  of  lumber  wagon.  In  the 
French  diligence,  six  horses  would  carry  twenty  persons  with 
one  postillion,  whereas  in  Prussia  to  convey  the  same,  num- 
ber of  passengers,  you  must  employ  the  Schnell  VVagen,  three 
carriages,  and  a  lumber  wagon,  with  a  driver  and  a  guard. 
The  former  carriage  and  the  lumber  wagon,  have  each  four 
horses,  the  others  two.  Hence  to  convey  twenty  persons, 
fourteen  horses  are  necessary,  a  conductcur,  a  postillion,  four 
drivers,  and  a  guard.  In  France,  six  horses,  a  conducteur, 
and  one  postillion  convey  the  same  number  of  passengers, 
besides  merchandise  sufficient  to  meet  half  of  the  expense  of 
the  line. 


14.  NETHERLANDS. 


This  country  consists  of  two  very  distinct  portions  :  Hol- 
land in  the  north,  and  Belgium  in  the  soutli ;  which  together 
are  called  Netherlands,  or  Low  Countries,  from  their  flat  sur- 
face and  low  situation;  many  of  the  towns  and  villages  being 
below  the  level  of  the  neighi)oring  sea,  but  jireserved  from  in- 
undation by  the  persevering  industry  of  the  inhabitants.  The 
government  is  a  constitutional  monarchy,  with  a  considerable 
degree  of  resemblance  to  tiiat  of  Great  Britain. 

In  Holland,  the  established  religif»n  is  Christianity,  of  the 
Calvinistic  form  ;  but  the  Belgians  are  of  the  Roman  Catholic 
persuasion. 

The  Dutch  language  (for  so  is  the  dialect  of  the  Hollanders 
called)  is  a  kindred  tongue  to  the  German,  copious,  though 
uncouth,   and  in   need  of  improvement.      The   Flemish,  OT 

•  Goodrich's  Universal  Geogrnphy. 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  3S5 

PERSONAL  CHARACTERISTICS. 

language  of  the  Belgians,  difTers  in  some  respects  from  the 
Dutch,  but  not  so  much  as  to  prevent  the  natives  from  under- 
standing each  other.  French  is  generally  spoken,  partic- 
ularly in  the  south,  where  it  has  superseded  the  native  tongue, 
except  with  the  lower  classes.  Education  is  greatly  pro- 
moted in  this  kingdom.  The  Dutch  take  the  lead  of  the  Bel- 
gians in  literature;  and  both  have  produced  painters  of  the  first 
celebrity. 

The  people  of  Holland  may  be  divided  into  the  following 
classes:  the  clowns,  or  boors,  who  cultivate  the  land;  the  mar- 
iners, or  skippers,  who  navigate  the  ships  and  inland  boats; 
the  merchants  and  traders,  who  fill  the  towns  ;  the  renteeners, 
or  men  that  also  live  in  towns,  upon  the  rents  of  their  estates; 
and  the  gentlemen,  officers  of  the  army  and  navy,  magistrates, 
&-C.  The  boors  feed  chiefly  on  herbs,  roots,  and  milk.  The 
other  classes  drink  enormous  quantities  of  tea  and  coffee,  or, 
more  properly  speaking,  of  lukewarm  water  scarcely  colored. 
A  great  quantity  of  spirituous  liquors  are  also  drank;  456,000 
ankers  of  Geneva  being  annually  consumed  in  the  province 
of  Holland.  The  class  of  gentlemen  or  nobles,  is  very  limited ; 
most  of  the  families  having  been  extinguished  in  the  long  wars 
with  Spain. 

The  Dutch  are  generally  below  the  middle  stature,  inclined 
to  corpulency,  and  remarkable  for  a  heavy  awkward  mien. 
"The  women,"  says  Professor  Silliman,  "have  very  fine 
complexions,  probably  the  finest  in  the  world;  their  skins  are 
of  a  very  pure  and  beautiful  white,  with  less  redundancy  of 
rouge  than  the  English  women  possess,  but  generally,  they 
fail  in  expression,  and  resemble  fine  wax-work.  They 
wear  clo"se  caps,  and  gowns  with  long  waists,  and  their  whole 
■  dress  being  of  the  same  stamp,  gives  them  a  precise  and 
formal  appearance.  The  fashionable  ladies,  however,  gen- 
erally appear  much  as  in  England,  but  fashion  has  very  little 
to  do  in  Holland  ;  and  it  is  probable  that  the  dress  of  the  Dutch 
■is  now  substantially  the  same  that  it  was  in  the  time  of  the  Duke 
of  Alva. 

The  persons  of  the  ladies  are  too  short  and  robust  for  beau- 
ty. The  women  among  the  peasantry,  make  a  most  grotesque 
appearance.  They  wear  very  large  hats  of  straw,  nearly  as 
large  as  an  umbrella,  and  fancifully  adorned  with  pictures  of 
stars,  birds,  beasts,  &.c.  Their  waists  are  of  extravagant 
length,  and  the  rest  of  their  dress  is  stuffed  and  padded  out  to 
a  size  that  moclcsall  proportion ;  their  petticoats  are  very  short, 
and  they  v/ear  wooden  shoes  with  high  heels.  The  men  also 
wear  wooden  shoes,  and  their  dress  is  of  the  same  style  with 
that  of  the  women. '  They  are  fond  of  having  a  great  many- 
buttons  on  their  clothes  ;  they  are  of  a  most  extraordinary  size, 
and  are  figured  with  rude  ornaments."* 

♦  Silliman's  Journal. 


"336  tlNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 


NETHERLANDS. 


Of  the  characteristic  mannera  and  cnstutus  of  the  people  of 
Holland,  wo  can  only  mention  a  few.  To  every  house  througli- 
out  North  Holland  there  are  two  doors;  one  of  which  is  never 
opened  but  when  a  corpse  or  a  christening  is  carried  from  the 
house,  while  the  other  serves  for  the  ordinary  purposes  of  the 
family ;  this  custom  is  peculiar  to  North  Holland.  The 
houses  in  almost  every  part  of  the  province  have  a  gay  appear- 
ance ;  the  windows  and  doors  are  jjenerally  jiainted  green.  The 
most  scrupulous  cleanliness  is  practised  respecting  them ;  not 
only  the  windows,  but  the  whole  front  of  the  house,  in  most 
of  the  towns,  is  generally  washed  two  or  three  times  a  week, 
by  engines  for  that  purpose,  which  are  abundantly- supplied 
with  water  from  the  canals ;  and  the  same  care  is  extended  to 
the  pavement  of  the  streets  in  which  the  more  opulent  inhab- 
itants reside.     A  Dutch  house,  in  the  old  style  of  building,  such 

.as  are  seen  in  Leyden  more  particularly,  is  generally  six  sto- 
ries high,  the  three  first  of  which  are  of  an  equal  breadth,  but 
of  unequal  heights;  from  the  third  story,  the  roof  rises  to  a  point, 
and^he  rooms  in  this  jiart  of  the  house  necessarily  diminish  in 
size  as  they  approach  to  the  top  of  the  building.  The  front 
wall  of  the  upper  apartments  projects  so  much  from  the  roof 
as  nearly  to  hide  it,  unless  viewed  in  profile;  and  the  exterior 
of  each  room  diminishes,  till  that  of  the  attic  story  is  two  thirds 
less  than  the  basement  To  the  aperture  of  the  uppermost 
room  is  commonly  fixed  a  small  crane,  for  the  convenience 
of  hoisting  up  wood  and.  turf,  and  these  cranes  sometimes' have 
grotesque  figures  carved  upon  them.  In  the  large  and  com- 
mercial towns,  it  frequently  happens  that  apartments  that 
would  grace  the  mansions  of  a  prince,  have  no  other  view, 
from  their  windows,  than  the  dead  walls  of  a  warehouse,  used 
as  a  maga/inc  for  stock-fish,  skins,  tobacco.  &c.  so  that  the 
eye  may  turn  from  the  works  of  Rubens  and  Titian  to  these 
disagreeable  and  disgQsting  objects. 

The  custom  of  smoking  is  so  prevalent  in  Holland,  that  a 
genuine  Dutch  boor,  instead  of  descri!)ing  the  distances  of 
places  by  miles  or  liours,  says.  tli(<y  are  so  many  jiipes  asunder. 
Thus  a  man  may  reach  Delft  from  Rotterdam  in  four  pipes; 
but  if  he  goes  on  to  the  Hague,  he  will  smoke  seven  during  the 
journey.  Adjoining  to  their  theafn^  is  a  room  where  refreslv' 
ments  are  to  l)e  sold,  and  here  ilie  lovers  of  tobacco  resort,  to 
smoke  their  pipes  between  the  acts.  Their  rigid  attention  to 
cleanliness,  and  bigoted  attachment  to  smoking,  jointly  give 
rise  to  a  most  inconvenient  and  disgusting  custom.  After  din- 
ner, there  is  placd  on  the  ta!)lt',  along  with  the  wine  aiul 
glasses,  a  s|)itting  pot,  wliich  is  handed  round  as  regularly  a.s 
the  bottle.  All  Dutchmen  of  the  lower  classes  of  society,  and 
not  a  few  in  the  higher  walks  of  lif(.*,  carry  in  their  pocket  tlie 
whfjle  apparatus  that  is  necessary  for  smoking:  a  box  of  enor- 

'nious  sizi',  wliich  fre(|uently  contains  lialfa  j)ound  of  tobacco; 

.a  jiipe  of  clay,  or  ivory,  according  to  the  limey  or  wealth  of 

"the  possessor;  if  the  latter,  he  carries  also  instruments  to  cleah 


A  Danish  Feasant.        P.  338. 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  337 


MANNERS  AND  CUSTOMS. 


it;  a  pricker  to  remove  obstructions  from  the  tube  of  the 
pipe;  a  cover  of  brass  wire  for  the  bowl,  to  prevent  the  ashes, 
or  sparks,  of  the  tobacco  from  flying  out ;  and  sometimes  a 
tinder-box,  or  bottle  of  phosphorus,  to  procure  fire  in  case 
none  is  at  hand. 

The  characteristics  of  the  Dutch  are  patience,  ingenuity,  and 
perseverance.  Their  natural  temperament  is  phlegmatic,  and 
their  labor  consists  rather  in  slow  and  continued  application, 
than  in  arduous  exertion.  The  love  of  money  is  their  ruling 
passion,  and  the  spring  of  all  their  actions,  and  as  they  are  ever 
plodding  upon  ways  and  means  to  get  it,  no  people  are  so  un- 
sociable. They  will  rarely  step  one  inch  out  of  their  way  to 
save  from  inconvenience  those  whom  they  do  not  know;  and, 
on  the  other  hand,  they  never  lose  a  moment  in  the  gratiiication 
of  malice,  the  indulgence  of  envy,  or  the  assumption  of  those 
petty  triumphs,  which  in  other  countries  fill  life  with  much  un- 
necessary misery.  • 

The  general  character  of  the  Belgians  is  much  less  fixed  than 
that  of  the  Dutch.  Their  situation  brings  them  more  immedi- 
ately into  contact  with  the  French:  and  a  considerable  portion 
of  the  vivacity  of  that  volatile  people  has  been  ingrafted  upon 
the  gravity  of  the  original  stock.  The  most  striking  feature 
in  their  national  character,  is  an  extravagant  fondness  for  re- 
ligious ceremonies  and  processions. 

The  lower  part  of  the  houses  in  Holland  is  lined  with  white 
Dutch  tiles ;  and  some  of  the  rooms  are  paved  with  small 
square  tiles,  put  together  without  cement.  The  kitchen  furni- 
ture, in  copper,  pewter,  and  iron,  affords  a  striking  proof 
of  the  mistress's  regard  to  neatness  and  cleanliness,  which, 
however,  is  too  frequently  bestowed  upon  her  furniture  more 
studiously  than  upon  her  person.  The  beds  and  tables  are 
covered  with  the  finest  linen,  the  rooms  are  adorned  with  pic- 
tures, and  the  yards  and  gardens  with  flowers.  The  rooms 
are  warmed  by  means  of  stoves,  placed  beneath  or  around  the 
apartments,  so  as  to  render  the  heat  equal  on  all  sides.  The 
females  have  little  stoves,  or  pans,  of  burning  peat,  which  they 
put  into  a  square  box  under  their  feet;  and  persons  of  con- 
dition take  these  with  them  to  church,  or  on  visits. 

The  diet  of  the  Dutch  boors  is  usually  coarse,  consisting  of 
roots,  herbs,  sour  milk,  and  pulse.  In  towns,  the  common 
people  fare  better.  All  ranks  are  fond  of  butter;  and  a  jour- 
ney is  seldom  undertaken  without  a  butter-box  in  the  pocket. 

The  diversions  of  the  Dutch  are  mostly  of  the  placid  and  re- 
tired kind,  except  that  of  skating,  which  is  practised  by  both 
sexes,  of  all  ranks,  when  the  canals  and  rivers  are  frozen  over. 
Sledge  racing  on  the  ice  is  also  much  practised  at  that  season. 
In  other  respects,  little  of  the  robust  is  to  be  found  in  their 
amusements. 

29 


338  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

DENMARK. 


15.  DENMARK. 


The  pnpulalimi  of  Denmark  somewhat  exceeds  two  millions 
In  general,  the  Danes  are  tall  and  robust,  with  regular  features, 
fiorid  complexions,  and  hair  inclininjz  to  yellow  or  red.  The 
females,  iiowever,  are  seldom  distinguished  for  symmetry  of 
shape,  or  for  kiste  or  elegance  in  dress.  The  superior  classes 
are  fond  of  magnificence  and  show,  and  value  themselves 
much  upon  thf)se  titles  and  jirivileges  which  they  piu'chase  of 
the  crown.  The  French  fashions  are  generally  adopted  by 
both  sexes  in  summer;  but  in  winter,  they  have  recourse  to 
furs  and  woollen  garments.  They  endeavor  to  imitate  the 
French  in  their  gallantry,  though  naturally  they  are  the  very 
contrast  of  that  nation.  The  coujmon  p(M)ple  are  neat,  priding 
themselves  in  different  changes  of  linen  ;  and  even  the  peasants 
exhii)it  a  neatness  in  their  dress,  which  seems  to  surpass  their 
condition. 

Yet  the  Danes  are  not  of  the  most  cleanly  order  in  their 
persons  and  bouses  ;  which  may  be  owing  to  their  use  of  stove.s, 
as  much  as  to  their  poverty.  The  cold  of  winter  impels  them 
to  exclude  the  fresh  air  as  much  as  possible  from  their  ajiart- 
nients ;  and  many  of  tliem,  during  their  hot  summers,  will  not 
lay  aside  their  great-coats,  or  other  heavy  garments. 

The  Danes  are  divided  into  fire  clasftes :  first,  the  nobility, 
who  hold  privileged  estates  uncier  the  king;  secondly,  the  tit- 
ular nobility,  \\  liich  embraces  the  two  orders  of  knighthood,  all 
counts  and  barons  possessed  of  privileged  estates,  and  all  the 
liigher  officers  of  State,  civil,  military,  and  ecclesiastical,  who 
h(jld  their  nobility  by  virtue  of  their  offices;  the  latter  are  fre- 
quently purcliasfd  liir  the  sole  jauposc  of  ai(iuiring  rank, 
without  the  holders  discharging  the  duties  th<'y  nominally  in- 
volve, or  acquiring  eniolunu^nt  from  them.  Thirdly,  the  infe- 
rior clergy,  lawyers,  and  students.  Fourthly,  merchants  and 
citizens.     Fifthly,  farmers  and  seamen. 

The  hmtstn  of  the  Danes  are  generally  of  timber;  and  it  is 
only  in  cities  that  any  considerable  portion  of  l)rick  houses  is 
to  be  met  with.  Each  house  has  a  kind  of  piazza  before  it, 
where  thf  f;imily  often  sit  in  sunmier,  and  the  landlord  smokes 
his  |)ipe. 

VVif  tdhlrs  of  thr  rich  (tbouud  in  every  liurury  conmion  to 
Europeans;  and  even  tliose  of  the  middle  classes  fierjuently 
exhibit  a  variety  f>f  foreign  d<li<;uifs.  But  the  food  of  the 
lower  orders  consists  f)f  oatcakes,  rye  bread,  iish,  cheese,  and 
other  ordinary  products  of  the  country.  Excess  in  the  use 
of  wines  and  other  strong  liquors,  is  a  bad  characteristic 
of  these  people:  and  "a  drunken  Dane"  lias  become  pro- 
verbial. 

The  rc/tjc/t' used  for  travelling  in  Denmark  is  something  be 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  339 

NORWAY. 

tween  an  English  coach  and  a  cart,  drawn  by  four  Uttle  horses, 
at  the  rate  of  about  five  miles  an  hour. 

The  diversions  of  the  Danes  are  very  few.  They  are  fond 
of  dancing  to  the  music  of  the  violin;  and  bands  of  itinerant 
Germans  supply  them  with  all  kinds  of  harmony.  Besides 
dancing,  their  whole  amusement  consists  of  running  at  the 
goose  on  Shrove-Tuesday ;  and  in  being  drawn  over  the  ice 
in  sledges  during  the  winter. 

The  government  of  Denmark  is  an  hereditary  and  unlimited 
monarchy ;  but  though  unrestricted  in  respect  to  the  enactment 
and  abrogation  of  the  laws,  the  court  of  Denmark  has  long 
been  characterized  for  its  wisdom  and  moderation.  The  peo- 
ple enjoy  much  practical  freedom. 

The  established  religion  is  Lutheran,  but  free  toleration  is- 
allowed  to  persons  of  other  persuasions.  Education  is  an 
object  of  primary  importance  with  the  government,  and  pa- 
rochial schools  are  established,  in  which  tlie  children  of  the 
poor  are  taught  the  rudiments  of  their  native  language  at  the 
public  expense.  Science  and  literature  have  long  been  cher- 
ished in  Denmark,  which  has  produced  some  celebrated  phi- 
losophers, mathematicians,  astronomers,  painters,  physicians, 
and  philologers.  Niebuhr,  the  celebrated  traveller,  was  also 
a  native  of  this  country  ;  and  this  was  the  birthplace  of  Malta 
Brun,  the  equally  celebrated  geographer. 


16.  NORWAY. 


In  general,  the  Norwegians  are  above  the  middle  stature^ 
well-shaped,  with  fair  complexions,  blooming  countenance, 
and  light  hair.  The  men  have  an  engaging  appearance  ;  and 
the  women,  who  are  also  tall,  remarkably  fair,  and  obliging, 
are  frequently  handsome,  notwithstanding  their  exposure  to 
an  ungenial  and  boisterous  climate.  The  mountaineers  ac- 
quire surprising  strength  and  dexterity,  by  temperance,  en- 
durance of  cold,  laborious  exercise,  climbing  rocks,  skating 
on  the  snow,  and  defending  themselves  against  wild  beasts  of 
the  forest.  Those  in  the  maritime  parts,  pursue  fishing  and 
navigation^  whence  they  become  very  expert  mariners.  The 
peasants  have  much  spirit  in  their  manner,  yet  are  not  inso- 
lent ;  never  fawning,  yet  always  paying  due  respect  to  their 
superiors.  Their  principal  mode  of  salutation  is,  by  offering 
the  hand  ;  and  when  any  thing  is  paid  or  giv^en  to  them,  in- 
stead of  returning  thanks  by  "words,  or  bowing,  they  shake 
the  hands  of  the  donor  with  great  cordiality.  Whenever  they 
enter  the  house  of  another,  they  have  an  ancient  custom  of 
laying  hold  of  a  long  pole,  which  is  kept  in  Qxcry  dwelling  for 


340  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

NORWAY. 

the  purpose  of  fixing  or  removing  the  valve  in  the  roof,  by 

whicli  the  smoke  escapes. 

The  character  of  the  Norwegians^  as  a  people,  is  more  inter- 
esting and  estimable  than  that  of  most  other  nations.  Their 
expressions  are  clear  and  energetic,  their  answers  distinct  and 
correct,  their  questions  jicrtinent  and  judicious,  their  reflec- 
tions often  profound  and  intelligent,  beyond  what  could  be 
imagined  in  their  limited  opportunities  of  education.  There 
is  a  generosity  of  heart  ancl  elevation  of  mind  about  them, 
which  gives  to  their  manners  a  very  frank  and  decided  stamp. 
They  speak  and  act  in  the  full  spirit  of  freemen,  open,  and 
undaunted,  yet  never  insolent  in  the  presence  of  their  supe- 
riors. They  are  reproached  with  being  slow  in  reconciliations; 
but  are  obliging,  hospitable,  and  liberal,  even  to  display,  when 
they  possess  the  means.  In  some  of  the  cities,  there  is  a  cul- 
tivated style  of  conversation,  and  polish  of  manners,  mixed 
with  the  high  and  independent  spirit  of  the  nation,  wliich  form 
altogether  an  accomplished  characti'r,  not  to  be  expected  in 
the  remote  latitudes  and  limited  advantages  of  Scandinavia; 
and  in  some  of  the  inland  districts,  where  the  corrupting  influ- 
ence of  commerce  has  not  reached,  there  prevails  a  pure  and 
primitive  sphit  of  religion,  united  witli  a  cpiiet  industry,  and 
domestic  retirement,  which  are  peculiarly  suited  to  cheer  the 
state  of  poverty  and  i)rivation  in  which  their  days  are  spent. 
They  are  generally  animated  by  an  ardent  spirit  of  patriot- 
ism, particularly  in  the  city  of  Drontheim,  which  has  less 
dependance  upon  foriign  connexions,  and  may  be  consid- 
ered as  a  kind  of  insulated  territory,  in  which  the  true  Nor- 
wegian character  appears  in  all  its  native  warmtli  and  sim- 
plicity. 

^hc  usual  dress  of  the  \orwr£ria7is  consists  of  a  wide  loose 
jacket,  made  of  coarse  cloth,  with  a  waistcoat  and  breeches  of 
the  same.  Their  heads  are  covered  with  flapped  hats,  or 
caps,  ornamented  with  ribands.  They  wear  sluies  destitute 
of  outer  soles;  and,  in  the  winter,  leathern  buskins.  They 
have  likewise  snow-shoes  and  long  skates,  with  which  they 
travel  at  a  great  pace,  either  on  land  or  on  ice.  A  corps  of 
soldiers,  thus  accoiUred,  can  outmarch  the  swiftest  horses. 
Though  their  dress  is,  in  many  rc.-spects,  accommodated  to 
the  severity  of  the  climate  under  which  they  live  ;  yet,  by  cus- 
tom, instead  of  guarding  against  it.  they  seem  to  outbrave  the 
inclemency  of  the  weathei-.  The  Norwegian  peasant  wears  a 
neckcloth  only  on  extraordinary  occasions;  at  other  times, 
his  neck  and  breast  are  uncoveied,  and  the  snow  beats  into 
his  bosom.  Ills  body  is  girt  with  a  broad  leathern  belt,  adorn- 
ed Willi  brass  |)lates,  from  which  depends  a  brass  chain  that 
sust.iins  a  large  knife,  a  gimlet,  and  other  tackle.  The  women 
wear  close  laced  jackets;  and  their  leathern  girdles  are  deco- 
rated witli  silver  ornaments.     They  likewise  wear  silver  chains 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 341 

DIET. 


about  their  necks,  with  gilt  medals  fixed  at  the  ends ;  and 
their  caps  and  neckerchiefs  are  almost  covered  with  small 
plates  of  silver,  brass,  or  tin,  large  rings,  and  buttons.  A 
maiden  bride  appears  with  her  hair  platted,  and  hung  full  ol 
such  jingling  trinkets,  as  are  also  her  clothes.  In  general, 
the  dress  of  the  Norwegians  is  of  a  stone  color,  with  white 
metal  buttons  and  red  button-holes;  but  in  this  and  other 
respects,  the  inhabitants  of  the  several  vall-e3's  of  this  moun- 
tainous country  vary  so  much  from  each  other,  that  a  stranger, 
seeing  them  assembled  at  the  great  fair  of  Christiana,  might 
believe  himself  in  the  midst  of  a  diversity  of  nations. 

The  diet  of  the  inhabitants  of  the  towns  resembles  nearly 
that  of  the  other  countries  in  the  north  of  Europe;  but  in  the 
country  districts,  peculiar  modes  of  living  prevail.  At  an  en- 
tertainment given  by  the  better  class,  the  guests  place  them- 
selves at  table  without  etiquette,  and  every  one  sits  as  he 
chooses.  They  continue  long  at  their  meals,  but  converse  with 
much  liveliness.  They  do  not  remain  at  tal)le  after  dinner; 
and  the  constant  presence  of  the  ladies,  who  often  take  the 
lead  in  conversation,  renders  tlieir  social  meetings  cheerful 
and  agreeable.  Their  fare  is  of  a  very  substantial  nature, 
yet  not  without  elegance ;  and  even  at  supper,  three  or  four 
courses  of  soup;  fowls,  ham,  tish,  &c.,  follow  one  after  another, 
while,  perhaps,  a  quarter  of  veal  appears  at  last  as  the  con- 
cluding delicacy.  After  dinner,  the  company  all  bow  to  the 
hostess,  drink  her  health,  and  then  suddenly  rising,  push  back 
their  chairs  with  a  tremendous  noise  to  the  sides  of  the  room. 
Then  they  stand  for  a  short  time  as  if  they  were  saying  a 
grace;  after  which,  bowing  to  the  master  of  the  house,  and  to 
each  other,  they  shake  halids  with  the  host,  kiss  the  hand  of 
the  hostess,  and  conduct  tjie  ladies  out  of  the  room.  Coffee 
is  then  served,  whil<^  some  gentlemen  retire  to  smoke  tobacco 
in  another  room.  Tea  is  then  brought  in,  after  which  the  card 
tables  are  set  out,  and  punch  served  up.  A  solid  supper  final- 
ly appears,  as  before  mentioned. 

While  the  nobility  anl  merchants  of  Norway  fare  thus 
sumptuously,  the  peasantry  hve  with  the  utmost  frugality  and 
temperance.  Their  common  bread  is  oat-meal  cakes,  about 
the  size  and  thickness  of  pancakes  ;  and  this  is  made  only 
twice  a  year.  In  times  of  scarcity,  to  which  such  a  country 
s  much  exi)osed,  they  boil,  dry,  and  grind  the  bark  of  the  fir 
tree  into  a  kind  of  flour,  whicli  they  mix  with  their  oat-meal; 
and  sometimes  the  bark  of  the  elm  is  used  in  a  similar  manner. 
In  places  where  a  fishery  is  carried  on,  the  roes  of  cod  are 
kneaded  with  the  oat-meal ;  or,  mixed  with  the  barley-meal, 
they  are  made  into  a  kind  of  hasty-pudding  and  soup,  which 
is  enriched  with  a  pickled  herring,  or  a  salted  mackerel.  The 
flesh  of  the  shark  is  considered  a  dainty;  as  are  also  thin  sli- 
ces of  meat  sprinkled  with  salt,  and  dried  in  the  wind.  Fresh 
fish  are  had  in  abundance  on  the  sea-coast-  but,  for  want  of 
29* 


342  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

NORWAY. 

moans  of  quick  convej'ance,  they  are  unknown  in  the  interior. 
Here,  however,  [jrouse,  partridpres,  hares,  rod-deer,  and  rein- 
deer, are  hiintiMl  and  eaten.  Cows,  shoej),  and  goats,  are  slain 
for  winter  stock  ;  the  flesh  beincj  preserved  by  pickling,  smo- 
king, or  dry-salting.  After  making  cheese,  they  convert  the 
sour  whey  into  a  liquor,  called  syrc,  wliich,  mixed  with  water, 
constitutes  th(Mr  ordinary  drink;  hut  they  provide  a  store  of 
strong  beer  for  the  Christmas  festivities,  weddings,  christen- 
ings, and  other  entertainments. 

Thnre  are  few  splendid  huildiiis^a  in  Norway,  even  in  the 
principal  towns;  and  the  greater  part  of  the  houses  are  con- 
structed chiefly  of  wood,  with  foundations  of  stone,  plaster- 
ed, and  whitewashed  on  the  outside.  The  interior  is  lined 
with  planks,  which  are  covered  with  oil  jiaint;  and  the  open 
spaces  are  filled  with  pitcli.  tow,  or  moss,  to  exclude  the  cold. 
But  it  is  generally  observed  that  the  Norwegians  do  not  be- 
stow sufficient  attention  upon  the  closeness  of  their  houses, 
and  seem  to  trust  for  wanntii  rather  to  their  immense  fires  of 
wood.  The  roofs  are  fnvjuently  covered  with  tiles,  but  more 
commonly  with  planks,  ujion  which  are  laid  the  bark  of  the 
bircli  tree,  with  a  coat  of  turf  above  all,  which,  in  summer, 
bears  grass  and  flowers,  on  which  the  goats  are  fond  of  brow- 
sing. The  cleanliness  of  the  cottages  is  very  remarkable;  and 
much  of  their  fiu'niture,  sucli  as  polished  pewter  dishes,  and 
earthen  saucepans,  bright  wooden  bedsteads,  chairs,  and 
tables,  bleached  with  frequent  scouring,  bears  a  close  resem- 
blance to  the  state  of  the  English  cottages  in  former  times. 
The  ceilings,  windows,  and  walls,  ai'e  frofjuently  jiainted  with 
showy  (Colors ;  the  tables  colored  in  imitation  of  oil  cloth. 
There  arc  many  elegant  country-seats,  which  are  oblong 
buildings,  consisting  of  one  floor,  the  outsides  painted  rod, 
and  the  frames  of  th(<  windows  gn^en.  The  walls  and  beams 
of  the  houses  are  often  covered  with  inscripti(»ns  of  a  moral 
and  religious  nature,  or  expressive  of  the  fi-elings  of  hospi- 
tality. The  dwelling  houses  in  the  country,  which  are  gen- 
erally situated  in  tlu;  most  pleasing  and  even  picturesque 
spots  that  can  be  found,  are  usually  spacious,  and  commodi- 
ously  arranged;  consisting  of  three  or  four  rooms  on  one 
floor,  with  largo  windows,  but  somotimrs  with  nothing  but  a 
square  hole  in  the  roof,  which  serves  also  for  a  passage  to  the 
smoke,  and  which  is  occasionally  filled  by  a  wooden  pane 
covered  with  bladder. 

//  in  slill  so  much  the  practice  in  Norway  for  every  family  to 
fahriratr  a  i^real  part  of  the  articles  which  they  require  for 
domestic  purposes,  that  manufactures,  and  even  the  ordinary 
trades,  have  made  little  progress  in  the  country  ;  and  the  dis- 
tance at  which  the  peasants  commonly  live  from  each  other, 
tends  to  continue  this  state  of  things.  The  peasantry  not  only 
make  the  coarse  cloth  with  which  they  are  clothed,  but  also 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  343 

TRAVELLING — AMUSEMENTS. 

their  furniture,  utensils,  shoes,  boots,  saddles,  and  harness;  and 
in  the  most  retired  spots,  among  rocks  and  mountains,  are 
found  even  self-taught  clock  and  watch-makers,  and  carvers 
in  wood  and  stone,  whose  works  discover  an  astonishing  de- 
gree of  native  genius  and  intelligence.  One  of  the  greatest 
and  most  lucrative  of  the  Norwegian  manufactures,  (if  the 
mere  preparation  of  the  raw  materials  can  be  so  named,)  is 
the  cutting  and  dressing"  of  mats,  beams,  rafters,  planks,  and 
laths,  most  of  which  is  done  by  saw-mills  on  the  riveis ;  but 
even  in  this  species  of  work,  rough  as  it  may  appear  under 
the  name  of  manufacture,  there  is  a  nicety  required,  which  the 
eye  of  the  merchant  can  distinguish,  and  which  has  consider' 
able  effect  upon  the  foreign  demand. 

During  winter,  sledges  are  used  in  travelling,  and  in  sum- 
mer, small  Swedish  cars;  but,  in  the  spring  season,  during 
the  whole  of  April,  and  the  first  half  of  May,  all  communica- 
tion is  interrupted  by  the  wet  state  of  the  roads,  which  are 
neither  frozen  enough  to  support  the  sledge,  nor  dry  enough 
to   admit  of  the  car.     The  cars  also  are  broader  than   the 
sledges,  and  cannot  go  in  their  tracks,  which  alone  are  first 
clear  of  snow^;  and  even  a  single  horse  is  continually  sinking 
into  hollow  places  covered   with  the  half-melted  snow  and 
ice.     Nay,  for  some  time,  it  is  very  difficult  in  certain  places 
to  conduct  a  heavy  carriage  along  the  roads ;  and  Von  Buch 
gives  the  following  description  of  the  passage  over  Tellegrod 
in  Vardalen:  "  The  earth  freezes  in  winter  for  a  depth  of  sev- 
eral yards;  and  when  the  thaw  comes  on  in  spring,  it  is  long 
before  the  warmth  can  fully  expel  the  frost  from  the  ground. 
Hence  the  winter  has  been  long  past  on  the  surface,  and  the 
earth  becomes  dry  and  firm,  while  the  undermost  rind  remains 
still  frozen.     The  middle  thawed  part  remains  beneath  the  dry 
surface  like  a  morass,  and  cannot  penetrate  deeper  into  the 
earth.     Such  places  on  the  road  cannot  be  known,  and  horses 
and  coach  sink  at  once  like  a  vessel  at  sea.     The  firm  rind 
shakes  for  a  great  way  around,  and  rises  and  falls  in  continu- 
ed undulations.     The  carriage  dances,  the  horses  take  fright, 
the  crust  immediately  gives  way,  and  the  horses  and  carriage 
sink  for  a  number  of  feet  into  the  abyss."     The  common  eX' 
pression  at  parting,  to  all  strangers  who  travel  in  the  spring, 
is,  throughout  Norway,  "Heaven  preserve  you  from    Telle- 
grod ;"  and  truly  they  are  in  the  right.     It  is  frightful  to  see  the 
carriage  and  horses  rolling  over  the  firm  ground,  as  if  con- 
vulsed by  an  earthquake,  every  moment  expecting  to  see  the 
ground  open  and  swallow  them  up, 

The  amusements  of  the  Norwegians  bear  a  resemblance  to 
those  of  the  Swedes.  They  also  delight  to  record  the  tales  of 
their  ancestors,  which  in  their  social  meetings  they  often  do  by 
turns.  Their  national  dances  are  different  from  those  of  Swe- 
den.   The  most  common  are  the  two  following:  one  called 


344  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

NORWAY. 

Hailing,  which  resembles  tumbling  more  than  dancing,  and  in 
which  llie  performer,  standing  upon  his  head,  kicks  his  heels 
about  in  the  air;  and  another  called  Polsk,  resembling  a  waltz, 
in  which  the  male  dancers  exhibit  a  number  of  lascivious  at- 
titudes. 

Skating  upon  the  snow,  which  is  often  hard  as  ice,  is  also  a 
favorite  amusement.  Tiie  skates  are  made  of  wood,  and  are 
very  large.  At  DrontluMm  is  a  regiment  of  soldiers  called 
skate-runners.  They  carry  a  rifle,  a  sword,  and  a  long  climb- 
ing pole  tipjied  witli  iron.  They  proceed  at  some  distance 
apart,  and  such  is  their  speed,  that  no  body  of  cavalry  is  able 
to  overtake  them. 

The  reliirion  nf  Xonvay^  and  its  ecclesiastical  polity,  resem- 
ble that  of  Denmark.  The  king  nominates  to  the  greater  part 
of  the  beneiices,  and  there  are  about  518  clergy  of  all  ranks 
in  the  country.  There  are  a  few  individuals  connected  with 
the  Informed  ciiurches,  but  not  a  .sufficient  number  to  form  reg- 
ular communities.  No  Jews  have  ever  found  a  footing  in  Nor- 
way ;  and  tlie  apprehension  of  their  engrossing  the  traffic  in 
metals  is  supposed  to  have  contributed  chiefly  to  their  exclu- 
sion. There  are  several  missionaries  sent  to  Iia|)land  by  the 
bishop  of  Urontheim,  who  suffer  severe  privations  among  the 
miserable  inhabitants,  and  who  receive  a  salary  of  100  crowns 
per  annum.  The  means  of  education  are  very  limited  in  Nor- 
way. 

M'/ien  a  marriage  takes  place,  in  Norwa)',  open  house  is 
kept  for  all  comers  for  a  wliole  week.  Every  neighbor  and 
relation  of  the  bride  and  bridegroom  brings  provisions  as  a 
corilribution  to  the  feast,  and  the  new-married  couple  are  ex- 
pected to  provide  beer  and  brandy.  When  the  guests  take 
their  leave,  they  make  presents  to  the  married  pair,  accord- 
ing to  their  circumstances  and  their  consanguinity,  so  that 
generally  100,  and  sometimes  300  dollars  are  collected  for  the 
young  couple. 

Tlif  fimoral  crpmonifn  of  the  Norwegians  contain  vestiges 
of  former  paganism.  They  play  on  the  violin  at  the  head  of 
the  coffin,  and  also  whilst  the  corpse  is  conveyed  to  the  church, 
which  is  oflen  df)ne  in  a  boat.  In  several  district'^,  it  is  cus- 
tomary to  put  a  number  f)f  (pie.stinns  to  the  deceased:  as  why 
he  died  ?  whether  his  wife  and  neighbois  were  kind  to  him  ? 
At  the  same  time  the  mourners  implore  forgiveness,  if  at  any 
time  they  have  injured  or  offended  him. 

Tlic  STpcrslilious  vatiouK  and  tradiliotis  of  Norway  are  quite 
numerous  and  peculiar.     Nor  are  these  conned  to  the  lower 
orders  of  the  peasantry,  but  are  found  to  exist  among  the 
land-owners  of  the  highest  class. 
.    The  su])ernatural  being  in  whose  existence  and  power  the 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER,  345 


SUPERSTITIONS. 


belief  is  perhaps  tlie  most  universal,  is  called  Nipen.  Scarce- 
ly any  thing  is  presumed  to  be  beyond  the  control  of  Nipen, 
nor  is  there  any  thing  so  trifling  as  to  be  beneath  his  atten- 
tion. Vi^hatever  happens  amiss,  Nipen  is  secretly  to  blame, 
or  if  good  fortune  turn  up,  Nipen  is  praised.  The  following 
anecdotes  related  by  Conway  in  his  "Personal  Narrative," 
will  serve  to  illustrate  the  influence  which  Nipen  is  believed  to 
exert. 

"  It  was  the  custom  in  the  house  where  I  resided,  for  a  fe- 
male servant  to  go  every  night  about  nine  o'clock  to  bed  the 
cows  ;  and,  as  the  place  was  dark,  it  was  necessary  to  take  a 
light.  There  is  a  certain  very  small  home-made  candle,  used 
in  Norway  for  common  purposes  such  as  this,  which  servants 
are  directed  to  use;  but  in  the  present  case  this  direction  was 
disobeyed,  and  larger  ones  were  used  in  their  stead.  One  morn- 
ing the  mistress  of  the  house,  who  had  long  observed  the  want 
of  attention  to  this  order,  sent  for  the  housekeeper,  and  asked 
the  reason  why,  after  so  many  repeated  orders  to  use  the  small 
candles,  the  servants  still  persisted  in  making  use  of  the  others. 
The  housekeeper  assumed  a  solemn  manner,  and  said,  with 
the  greatest  possible  gravity,  that  the  disobedience  of  the 
Fron's  oi:ders  was  not  wilful,  but  that,  after  several  trials  of 
the  small  candles,  it  was  found  that  they  always  went  out  the 
moment  the  door  was  opened ;  and  as  there  could  be  no 
doubt  that  Nipen  did  not  like  them,  they  were  consequently 
laid  aside." 

Another  anecdote  is  related  by  the  same  author,  of  an  oc- 
currence while  he  was  residing  near  a  place  called  Drammen. 
"The  evening  before  washing-day,  it  was  the  custom  for  the 
servants  to  go  to  a  neighboring  spring,  to  fill  a  barrel  with 
water.  One  day  it  was  discovered,  in  the  forenoon,  that  the 
usual  operations  of  the  day  had  not  been  entered  upon.  The 
barrel  had  become  leaky,  and  when  the  time  for  using  the 
water  arrived,  there  was  found  to  be  none.  No  attempt  was 
made  to  refill  it,  or  any  other  vessel,  as  it  was  concluded  that 
Nipen  did  not  choose  the  washing  to  take  place  that  day. 
This  the  servants  gravely  assigned  as  a  sufficient  reason  for 
delaying  the  operation  till  next  day ;  and  although  I  insisted 
upon  showing  the  believers  in  the  superstitions,  that  the  water 
had  been  put  into  a  leaky  barrel,  I  found  the  trial  ineffectual 
in  weakening  their  belief.  If  the  barrel  was  leaky,  Nipen  had 
made  it  so." 

Nipen  is  supposed  to  possess  great  influence  over  the  winds. 
Hence  every  proprietor  of  a  windmill  annually  propitiates  him 
by  an  offering  of  a  Christmas-cake.  The  following  story  is 
related,  by  the  same  author,  of  a  miller,  who  owned  a  wind- 
mill in  Gidbrandsdalen.  "  One  Christmas-eve,  this  Christmas- 
cake  was  made  at  the  miller's  house,  and  along  with  a  pot  of 
the  strongest  beer,  was  intrusted  to  his  son,  then  a  boy  about 
ten  years  of  age,  to  carry  to  the  mill,  and  to  set  it  down  just 
under  the  fanners,  where  it  was  the  custom  to  leave  itj  and 


346  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

NORWAY. 

this  custom  of  taking  the  cake  to  Nipen  is  considered  hifi;iily 
honorable,  so  much  so,  that  the  members  of  a  family  take  it 
in  rotation.  The  boy  havinij  ^ot  Nipni's  cake,  left  the  house, 
which  was  very  near  the  mill,  to  carry  it  tiiore  ;  but  as  lie  went, 
he  was  seized  with  an  irresistible  desire  to  taste  the  cake, — it 
looked  so  tempting,  and  smelt  so  delicious,  and  such  a  cake 
he  had  never  tasted  before.  He  tasted  accordingly,  and  so 
excellent  did  helind  it,  that  he  tasted  again  and  again,  break- 
ing off  little  pieces,  till  at  length  the  cake  assumed  a  mutilated 
appearance,  and  was  so  much  reduced  in  size,  that  he  began 
to  think  it  would  not  be  treating  Xipen  with  sufficient  respect 
to  offer  him  such  a  cake,  and  that  it  was  better  to  offer  him 
nothing,  than  to  make  a  fool  of  him;  and  so  he  ate  it  ail  up. 
He  then  hesitated  for  some  time  whether  he  should  set  down 
the  beer;  but  arguing  with  himself  in  the  same  way,  and  com- 
ing to  the  same  conclusion  with  regard  to  it  as  to  the  cake,  he 
drank  it  also.  Great  remorse  followed  these  impious  actions; 
but  he  had  no  courage  to  tell  whrU  he  had  done,  but  went  home, 
and  patiently  wailed  the  event.  The  year  passed  on,  and  a 
most  prosperous  one  it  proved  to  the  mill  ;  so  that  when 
Christmas  again  came  round,  the  father  said  it  was  but  just  to 
make  Nipen  an  offering  this  year,  if  possible  even  surpassing 
the  last ;  and  when  the  cake  was  made,  the  boy,  who  was  at 
this  time  the  only  one  in  the  house,  was  again  intrusted  with 
it.  Now,  thought  he,  as  he  went  to  the  mill,  the  mill  has  never 
prospered  more  than  last  year,  and  yet  Nipen  got  nothing; 
why  then  give  this  cake  any  more  than  the  other?  and  he 
sat  down  and  devoured  it,  little  thinking,  that,  though  Nipen 
could  forgive  one  offence,  he  was  not  to  \)i'  trilled  with  a  sec 
end  time.  But  feeling  no  R-ar  of  Nipen,  he  drank  the  beer 
and  went  on  to  set  down  the  empty  vessel  under  the  fanners 
as  he  had  done  the  year  before.  It  was  a  clear  frosty  night, 
and  so  still,  that  the  tread  of  a  bear  might  be  heard  a  mile  off 
but  just  as  he  stooped  down  to  lay  the  vessel  on  the  ground, 
the  fanners  flew  round  and  struck  him  down;  but  he  lived  to 
creep  home  and  tell  his  stuiy,  and  then  he  died." 

Next  in  power  to  Niprn,  art-  the  Tjitral  /nlfllis-rncen,  supposed 
to  preside  over  different  parts  of  the  surface  of  the  country,  the 
Mountain  Demon,  the  W'noil  Demon,  the  /fiver  Demon,  whose 
power  also  extends  over  the  lakes.  Tht;  Wo(<d  Demon  differs 
from  all  the  others  in  being  supposed  to  be  visible.  AV'(u)dmen 
may  be  found  in  various  phicrs  who  will  avt-rtliattliey  have  swn 
liim,  and  others  who  have  had  the  honor  of  conversing  with  him. 
On  midsummer's  eve,  the  Wood  Demon  expects  that  every 
woodman  will  leave  his  axe  stuck  into  a  tree,  in  order  llial  the 
Demon  may  himself  that  night  fell  one  of  tlietr'^es,  thus  taking 
the  lead  in  the  operations  of  the  following  year.  Respecting 
this  custom,  the  following  story  was  related  to  Conway  by  a 
man  who  was  himself  concerned.  "When  a  young  man,  he 
was,  as  usual,  employed  in  the  wood  along  with  his  conu'ades  ; 
and  when  night  came  on,  they  began  to  make  free,  as  they  usu- 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  347 

Nil  ^-^^— •__^_^^_ 

LOCAL   INTELLIGENCES. 

ally  drd  on  midsummer  eve,  with  a  flask  of  corn  brandy.  They 
had  placed  an  offering  on  the  ground,  but  forgot  to  strike  their 
axes  into  the  trees;  and  the  liquor  taking  its  effect  upon  them, 
one  after  another,  they  all  fell  asleep  without  recollecting  the 
omission.  It  was  broad  day  when  they  awoke,  and  then  seeing 
the  axes  lying  beside  them,  recollected  the  fatal  error.  How- 
ever, each  man  took  his  axe  sorrowfully,  and  went  to  his  work  ; 
but  not  an  axe  would  penetrate  the  bark;  they  all  rebounded 
as  if  the  trees  had  been  cased  in  copper,  and  rung  with  a  ter- 
riflic  sound  ;  so  they  gave  up  working,  and  waited  till  night, 
when  each  man  hung  his  axe  upon  a  branch,  and  they  then 
lay  down  all  together;  but  every  attempt  to  keep  themselves 
awake  was  ineffectual ;  sleep  overcame  them,  and  next  morn- 
ing, upon  waking,  every  axe  was  found  sticking  in  a  tree,  for 
the  Demon  had  been  satisfied  with  their  contrition.  But  the 
Demon  is  not  always  so  forgiving,  as  will  appear  from  the 
following  relation  which  has  given  rise  in  Norway  to  the  be- 
lief in  '  Chattering  Peter.' 

'f  Peter  was  a  woodman,  employed  in  the  forests  on  the 
Glommen,  one  who  had  the  character  of  never  having  shown 
sufficient  respect  to  the  Demon,  either  in  his  language,  or  by 
his  offerings ;  and  he  was  even  reputed  to  have  once  said,  he 
was  a  match  for  the  Demon  in  felling  a  tree,  or  in  any  other 
piece  of  forest  work.  One  day,  in  the  latter  end  of  the  year, 
just  about  the  confines  of  winter,  but  before  the  frost  had  set 
in,  or  any  snow  had  fallen,  Peter  was  in  the  forest  finishing  the 
labor  of  rolling  a  number  of  felled  trees  to  the  brink  of  the  river, 
and  tumbling  them  in ;  and  it  was  after  sunset,  and  just  begin- 
ning to  grow  dusk,  when  he  laid  hold  of  the  only  tree  that  re- 
mained. All  the  woodmen  had  gone  home,  and  Peter  was  quite 
alone ;  and  he  toiled  and  toiled  to  move  the  tree,  but  all  in  vain. 
At  last,  overcome,  he  sat  down  upon  the  tree,  and  began  to 
wipe  his  face,  and  to  say  to  himself.  The  Demon  could  not  roll 
this  tree  to  the  river's  brink.  Just  as  he  said  this,  a  man 
scarcely  bigger  than  Peter,  and  dressed  in  a  fur  cloak  and  red 
cap,  as  if  he  had  been  a  native  of  Gulbrandsladen,  stepped 
from  behind  a  tree,  and  saluting  Peter,  said, '  Why,  man,  cannot 
you  move  that  tree?'  To  which,  Peter,  who  had  a  shrewd 
guess  who  the  speaker  was,  replied,  'No,  nor  you  neither.' 
Upon  this,  the  stranger  stooped  down,  and  taking  hold  of  the 
tree,  lifted  ic  upon  his  shoulder,  and  carrying  it  to  the  brink  of 
the  river  as  if  it  had  been  a  sapling,  threw  it  in.  'Now,  then,' 
said  the  Demon,  for  it  was  none  other  who  had  done  the  thing, 
'what  am  I  to  have  for  my  jobl'  'Perhaps,'  said  Peter,  ta- 
king courage  at  the  familiar  terms  in  which  the  Demon  ad- 
dressed him — 'perhaps.  Sir,  you  will  accept  a  little  of  this?' 
taking  a  skin  of  tobacco  from  his  pocket.  '  That  won't  do  for 
me,  Peter,'  said  the  Demon.  '  Then,  perhaps,'  replied  Peter, 
'  your  honor  doesn't  take  tobacco  ?'  but  the  demon,  who  can  be 
jocular  if  he  pleases,  disliked  Peter's  free  way  of  speaking; 
and  besides,  knowing  his  character,  and  having  no  doubt 


S43  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

NORWAY. 

overheard  the  sliffhtine  things  he  had  said,  without  further 
ceremony,  took  Petrr  by  the  foot,  and  j)itciiod  him  iqion  the 
tO])  of  one  of  the  tallest  pines  in  the  forest,  and  then  went  his 
way.  That  very  nifrht  winter  set  in;  the  wind  came  howling 
through  the  woods,  the  snow  began  to  full,  and  next  morning 
the  trees  were  mantled  over.  I'f^ter  is  still  supposed  to  sit  ui>on 
a  pine  tree,  his  teeth  chattering  with  cold.  Where  he  is  during 
summer,  the  woodmen  cannot  tell ;  but  they  will  all  aver,  that  at 
the  end  of  autumn  he  resumes  his  seat ;  and  that  during  ail  the 
winter,  and  early  in  the  spring,  Peter's  teeth  may  be  heard 
chattering,  any  .<till  night,  on  the  slcii'ts  of  the  forest.'' 

One  other  tradition  of  the  forest  sujx'rstition  : — "  The  Wood 
Demon  is  supposed  to  have  great  skill  in  music ;  and,  like 
the  son  of  Jupiter,  to  gather  aroimd  him  the  beasts  of  the  for- 
est by  the  melody  of  his  pi|)e  ;  and,  by  the  same  power,  to  en- 
tice women  into  the  forest.  But  he  chooses  winter  for  the  ex- 
ercise of  his  talent.  A  peasant,  who,  to  make  a  near  cut  home, 
passed  tinough  a  part  of  the  forest  one  clear  winter  night, 
nearinj^  the  pipe,  was  constrained  to  draw  near,  and  found 
himsell  in  the  midst  of  a  large  assemblage  of  wild  animals, 
bears,  wolves,  lynxes,  &c.  The  beasts  offered  him  no  harm  ; 
the  Demon  sat  upon  a  stump  of  a  tree  playing;  and  at  length, 
all  the  beasts  dejiarted,  and  the  Demon  and  tlie  peasant  were 
left  alone.  The  Demon  made  him  a  present  of  an  axe  that 
felled  the  trees  almost  as  soon  as  it  touched  them  ;  and,  by 
this  means,  the  peasant  grew  rich.  And  having,  one  mid- 
summer eve,  left  his  axe  as  usual  stuck  in  a  tri-e,  he  foimd, 
next  morning,  that  the  Demon  had  taken  back  his  axe,  think- 
ing, perhaps,  the  man  was  rich  enough.  The  Demf)n  is,  how- 
ever, susceptible  of  cold  at  times,  although  he  chooses  winter 
for  his  jiiping ;  for  there  are  traditions  of  his  having  approach- 
ed the  lires  of  tlie  peasants  to  warm  himself,  and  of  having 
even  enier(!d  their  houses  and  partaken  of  their  cheju- ;  but 
never  without  leaving  a  present  of  some  kind  or  other.  It 
is  worthy  of  adding,  that  the  man  who  related  all  th(\se  tra- 
ditions and  storit's,  and  several  others  which  I  omitted  to  take 
any  note  of,  and  whose  scruples  hud  been  at  first  overcome 
by  some  glasses  of  brandy,  began,  when  the  effects  of  the 
brandy  had  ceased,  to  resume  his  fear  and  scnii)les;  and 
in  so  much  awe  did  he  stand  of  the  AV'ood  Demon,  to  whom 
his  disclosures  might  be  offensive,  that  he  remained  all  night 
where  he  had  told  the  stories,  rather  than  venture  through  a 
small  strip  of  wood  which  lay  on  the  way  to  his  house." 

In  one  of  his  excursions,  while  travelling  in  Norway,  Mr. 
Conway  had  an  opportunity  of  joining  a  wedding-|iarty,  an 
account  of  which,  with  the  ceremony  which  followed,  he  thus 
relat»^s : 

"  The  party  was  going  to  a  church  higher  up  thn  lake,  and 
on  the  op|)Osite  side;  and,  as  I  was  tolii  I  should  save  two 
hours'  walk  by  taking  a  seat  in  the  boat,  I  willingly  accepted 
the  proposal,  more  from  a  desire  of  seeing  how  these  thing* 


Russian  Feasants.         P.  373. 


X\o^iccgian  Feasants.         P.   340. 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  349 

WEDDING  CEREMONIES. 

were  conducted  in  Norway,  than  from  a  wish  to  shorten  my 
journey.  The  first  tiling  that  struck  me  was  the  gilded  coro- 
nal upon  the  head  of  one  of  the  women.  She  was  the  bride ; 
and  in  almost  every  part  of  Norway,  if  the  marriage  be  among 
the  country  people,  the  bride  invariably  wears  a  gilded  crown, 
made  of  some  kind  of  stiff  paper.  This  is,  as  far  as  I  could 
learn,  meant  as  a  symbol  of  chastity ;  and  I  have  since  heard 
of  instances  in  whicli  the  crown  has  been  torn  from  the  head 
of  a  bride  who  was  known  to  have  no  just  title  to  wear  it.  The 
boat  in  which  I  was  seated  took  the  lead ;— in  it  were  the 
crowned  bride,  the  bridegroom,  and  six  persons,  four  women 
and  two  men,  whom  I  understood  to  be  the  nearest  of  kin ; 
three  fiddlers,  a  drummer,  and  a  person  with  a  kind  of  pan- 
pipe, were  seated  at  the  prow.  In  the  other  boat  were  eight 
persons,  also  relatives,  and  another  drummer.  One  person 
also  in  each  boat  had  a  gun.  The  stillness  of  the  morning, 
and  the  quiet  repose  of  the  water  and  the  surrounding  scenery, 
were  in  strange  contrast  with  the  noisiness  of  the  bridal  party. 
The  orchestra  played,  and  the  party  sung  alternately,  and 
sometimes  both  exercised  their  powers  at  once.  The  drum 
kept  up  its  never- failing  accompaniment;  and  every  two  or 
three  minutes  a  feu-de-joie,  and  then  a  loud  shout,  drowned, 
for  a  moment,  the  other  testimonies  of  rejoicing.  All  the  men 
were  dressed  in  the  Tellemarken  jacket,  girdle,  and  breeches, 
and,  with  their  short  knives,  stuck  in  their  girdles,  looked 
rather  like  a  party  of  pirates,  than  of  wedding  guests.'  The 
crown  was  the  only  distinction  of  the  bride.  All  the  women 
were  dressed  neatly  and  cleanly  ;  and  it  was  evident  that  the 
whole  party  was,  less  or  more,  under  the  influence  of  corn 
brandy.  I  must,  however,  do  the  bride  the  justice  to  admit, 
that  she  was  almost,  if  not  altogether,  an  exception;  the  bride- 
groom, on  the  contrary,  seemed  to  be  the  most  intoxicated  of 
the  party.  In  Norway,  a  perfectly  sober  bridal  among  the 
country  people  was  never  known.  Their  marriages  invaria- 
bly take  place  on  Sunday.  The  party  assembles  on  the  Sat- 
urday, and  the  whole  night  is  spent  in  feasting  and  dancing, 
until  the  time  arrives  for  setting  off  to  church  ;  nor  does  the 
feasting  end  with  the  marriage  ceremony,  but  is  continued 
one,  two,  or  three  days  afterwards,  according  to  the  circum- 
stances of  the  parties.  As  many  of  the  guests  sleep  in  the 
bridegroom's  house  as  can  be  accommodated,  and  the  rest  are 
distributed  among  the  neighbors,  to  be  in  readiness  for  a  re- 
newal of  the  feast..  Every  bridal  guest  in  Norway  brings  the 
bride  a  present;  in  many  parts  of  Norway,  a  keg  of  butter  is 
the  usual  present,  and  if  the  marriage  takes  place  in  the  win- 
ter season,  salted  or  frozen  meat  is  also  considered  an  accep- 
table gift, 

"We  had  not  farther  than  three  miles  to  row,  so  that  we 

were  not  an  hour  in  accomplishing  the  voyage.    When  we 

reached  the  shore,  where  a  small  church  and  some  houses 

■vere  scattered  at  a  few  hundred  yards  from  the  water,  the 

30 


350  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 


SWEDEN. 


party  immediately  disembarked,  and  placing  the  music  at  their 
head,  walked  to  the  church  door,  where  the  violin  the  pipe, 
and  the  drum,  kept  up  the  sen>nade  all  the  time  ol  the  cere- 
mony. In  the  ceremony  itself,  there  was  nothing  extraordi- 
nary. The  bride  continued  to  wear  her  honorable  crown; 
and  when  it  was  concluded,  the  party  returned  in  the  same 
order  in  which  it  arrived  ;  and  long  after  the  boats  pulled  from 
the  shore,  the  sounds  of  music  and  mirth  were  borne  over  the 
lake.  I  have  since  had  opportunities  of  seeing  many  country 
marriages,  which  were  all  conducted  nearly  as  the  one  I  have 
described,  with  the  difTerence  only,  that  if  the  journey  to 
church  be  a  land  journey,  it  is  perfornaed,  if  in  summer,  on 
horseback,  and  if  in  winter,  on  sledges.  The  Norwegians 
seize  every  opportunity  of  feasting,  and  amontr  these  ojipor- 
tunities,  marriage  takes  the  lead.  There  is  a  smaller  festival 
connected  with  ni.irriage,  which  is  called  in  Norway,  Festcrol, 
the  day  upon  which  two  young  persons  plight  their  troth,  and 
declare  their  intended  marriage." 


17.  SWEDEN. 


The  Swedes  are  of  the  middle  size,  and  few  of  them  arc  cor- 
pulent. They  have  light  flaxen  hair,  and  a  ruddy  counte- 
nance, with  what  Dr.  Thompson  calls  "  a  certain  degree  of 
flabbmess,"  in  their  complexion.  The  females  are  distinguish- 
ed for  their  beauty.  Their  general  resemblance  would"  indi- 
cate that  they  belong  to  the  same  family,  rather  than  that  they 
were  natives  of  a  large  country.  In  their  manners,  such  is 
their  vivacity,  that  they  have  been  styled  the  "French  of  the 
North." 

The  national  character  of  the  Swedes,  is  highly  respectable 
and  interesting.  They  are  remarkable  for  great  simplicity, 
both  in  manner,  in  dress,  and  in  feeling.  They  are  eminently 
hospitable,  hon(>st,  contented,  industrious,  brave.  The  popu- 
lation being  thinly  settled,  and  communication  with  strangers 
not  being  very  frequent,  they,  like  the  Scotch  Ilii^hlanders  and 
the  Welch,  are  attached  to  ancient  usages,  and  traditionary 
lewnds  ;  and  their  tendency  in  this  respect,  is  found  to  be  con- 
siderably inveterate,  not  being  easily  removed  or  modified 
by  recent  inijirovement.  The  weakest  point  in  their  character, 
however,  isj  an  immoderate  indulgence  in  the  use  of  ardent 
siiirits.  This  indulgence  is  confined  chiefly  to  the  lower  or- 
ders:  a  considerable  fjuantity  of  corn  is  made  use  of  every 
year  for  the  purpose  of  distillation.  But  with  this  exception, 
the  character  of  the  Swedes  is  entitled  to  the  highest  com- 
mendation. As  a  further  illustration  of  the  Swedish  character, 
the  .'"oilowing  extract  from  Mr.  Conway,  may  be  added.  "My 
joumcy  from  Undcvalla  was  made  on  Sunday,  and  judging 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  351 


COSTUME — DIET — COTTAGES. 


from  the  concourse  of  people  who  thronged  the  road,  and 
particularly  from  the  multitude  assembled  in  a  churchyard 
which  lay  close  to  it,  I  had  every  reason  to  conclude  that  the 
Swedes  are  a  church-going  people.  I  was  exceedingly  pleased 
with  the  respectable  appearance  of  the  peasantry.  I  know 
they  are  poor,  wretchedly  poor,  but  they  had  neither  forgotten 
the  way  to  the  house  of  God,  n'or  omitted  in  their  poverty  to 
provide  decent  apparel  for  their  appearance  there.  From  a 
height  over  whicli  the  road  passed,  in  the  course  of  this  day's 
journey,  I  counted  no  fewer  than  eleven  churches  in  sight  at 
the  same  time.  From  other  specimens  than  that  which  1  have 
mentioned,  I  have  no  reason  to  doubt  of  their  being  all  well 
filled." 

"  In  passing  along  the  Swedish  roads,"  continues  the  same 
writer,  "  the  traveller  frequently  sees  a  charity-box  fixed  at 
the  way -side  ;  and  it  is  a  beautiful  trait  in  the  character  of  that 
nation,  worth  all  their  records  of  glory  and  deeds  of  arms, 
that  there  is  no  instance  of  one  of  these  boxes  being  plundered. 
The  poor  in  Sweden  are  well  provided  for,  both  by  these  re- 
ceptacles for  casual  alms-offerings,  and  by  a  regular  parish 
provision;  but  to  recur  to  the  honesty  of  the  Swedes.  I  think 
it  may  safely  be  averred  that  Sweden  is  the  most  remarkable 
of  any  of  the  European  nations.  On  account  of  this  virtue, 
doors  are  constantly  left  upon  the  latch.  Horse-stealing  and 
sheep-stealing  are  utterly  unknown.  Of  sacrilege  there  is  no 
example  upon  record;  and  indeed,  excepting  at  Stockholm 
and  Gottenburg,  where  a  taint  of  foreign  manners  may  be 
expected  to  obtain,  every  description  of  property  may  be  con- 
sidered as  safe  from  dishonesty." 

In  Sweden,  it  can  hardly  be  said  that  there  is  any  change  of 
costume  ;  blue  and  black  are  the  most  common  colors ;  and  if 
in  some  instances  a  variation  of  color  distinguishes  the  inhab- 
itants of  one  province  from  those  of  another,  still  the  dress 
is  in  other  respects  the  same.  A  broad-brimmed  hat,  with  a 
very  low  crown,  and  a  black  riband  tied  round  it,  distinguish- 
es the  holyday  dress  of  the  men  ;  but  on  days  of  labor,  a  cap 
is  the  covering  for  the  head.  The  national  dress,  as  estab- 
lished by  the  king  in  1777,  for  the  purpose  of  suppressing  luxu- 
ry, consists  of  a  close  coat,  very  wide  breeches,  strings  in  the 
shoes,  a  girdle,  and  a  cloak.  By  the  same  ordinance,  the  wo- 
men were  to  wear  a  black  robe,  with  puffed  gauze  sleeves,  a 
colored  sash,  and  ribands.  Veils  are  much  used  by  females 
of  all  classes ;  and  even  the  peasants,  while  at  work  in  the 
fields,  cover  their  heads  with  black  crape. 

Their  food  principally  consists  of  salted  flesh  and  fish,  eggs, 
milk,  and  hard  bread.  At  Michaelmas,  they  usually  kill  their 
cattle,  and  salt  them  for  the  ensuing  winter  and  spring.  Twice 
in  a  year,  they  bake  their  bread  in  large  round  cakes,  which 
are  strung  upon  files  of  sticks,  and  suspended  close  to  the  ceil 


352  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

SWEDEN. 

ings  of  the  cottage.  They  are  so  hard  as  to  be  occasionally 
broken  with  a  hatchet,  but  are  not  uni)leasant.  The  peasants 
use  beer  for  their  common  drink,  and  are  much  addicted  to 
malt  spirits.  In  the  districts  towards  the  western  coast,  and  at 
no  great  distance  inland,  tea  and  codec  are  not  unusually 
found,  which  are  procured  in  great  ])lenty,  and  at  a  cheaj)  rate, 
from  Gottenburg.  No  dinner  is  made  without  brandy.  Even 
ladies  use  it.  Before  *a  dinner,  the  guests  are  led  to  a  side  ta- 
ble, furnished  with  liquors,  and  slight  food,  as  a  iireliminary  to 
the  more  important  repast.  The  dishes  are  all  brought  on  to 
the  table  at  once,  and  the  guests  do  not  ask  for  any  particular 
one.  All  are  circulated,  in  turn,  and  all  are  j)artaken,  unless 
the  guest  j)refers  to  sit  witii  an  empty  plate,  till  his  favorite 
dish  may  arrive.  After  dinner,  the  guests  gravely  thank  the 
host  for  his  entertainment.  The  Swedes,  Tike  all  northern 
people,  use  much  tobacco. 

Thrir  cnttcifrrs,  though  built  of  vooO,  and  only  o(  one  story, 
are  comfortable  and  commodious.  The  room  in  which  the 
family  sleep,  is  provided  with  ranges  of  beds  in  tiers,  one 
above  the  other  :  upon  the  wocnlen  testers  of  the  beds  in  which 
the  women  lie,  are  placed  others,  for  tlie  reception  of  the  men, 
to  which  they  ascend  by  means  of  ladders.  To  a  person  who 
has  just  (juitted  Germany,  and  been  accustomed  to  tolerable 
inns,  the  Swedish  cottages  may  perhaps  appear  miserable  hov- 
els :  to  me,  who  had  been  Unig  used  to  places  of  far  inferior 
accommodation,  they  seemed  almost  |)alaces.  The  traveller 
is  able  to  procure  many  conveniences,  and  particularly  a  sep- 
ai'ate  room  from  that  inhabited  by  the  family,  which  could 
seldom  be  obtained  in  the  Polish  and  Russian  villages.  Dur- 
ing my  course,  says  Mr.  Coxe,  through  tiiese  two  countries,  a 
bed  was  a  phenomenon  which  seliiom  occurred,  excepting  in 
the  large  towns,  and  even  then  not  always  completely  equip- 
ped :  but  the  poorest  huts  of  Sweden  were  never  deficient  in 
this  article  of  comfort, — an  evident  })roof  that  tlje  Swedish 
peasants  are  more  civilized  than  those  of  Poland  alW  Russia. 

Sweden  is  not  more  celebrated  for  any  thing,  than  for  the  state 
of  its  roads.  The  high  roads,  says  Mr.  Coxe,  wind  agreeably 
throu;;h  the  country,  are  made  with  stone  or  gravel,  and  are 
as  good  as  the  turnpike  in  England  ;  and  yet  not  a  single  toll 
is  exacted  from  the  traveller.  Each  landlord  is  obliged  to 
keep  in  repair  a  certain  pait  of  the  road,  in  |>roportion  to  his 
property;  and  for  the  purpose  of ascertainintr  their  respective 
portions,  small  pieces  of  wood  or  stone,  marked  with  numbers 
and  capital  letters,  are  placed  at  different  distances  on  each 
side  of  the  way.  Such,  indeed,  are  their  goodness  throughout 
the  whole  country,  that  during  several  thousand  mile.s,  which 
I  travelled  in  this,  and  in  my  former  tour  in  1779,  I  scarcely 
met  with  fifty  miles  that  de.<:erved  the  name  of  indifferent. 
They  are  also  as  plea.sant  as  they  are  good,  and  in  many  pla- 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  353 

TRAVELLING EDUCATION. 

ces  look  like  gravel  walks,  carried  through  gentlemen's  grounds 
and  plantations,  as  they  wind  through  the  fields  and  extensive 
forests,  the  lofty  trees  casting  a  gloomy  shade  with  their  over- 
hanging foliage.  These  observations  have  been  confirmed 
by  more  recent  travellers.  Sweden,  in  truth,  has  been  gradu- 
ally making  improvements  in  the  departments  in  question,  es- 
pecially in  the  eastern  and  southern  divisions  of  the  kingdom; 
and  she  already  is  incomparably  superior  to  Norway,  Den- 
mark, and  Russia,  and  is  not  much  inferior  to  the  most  civil- 
ized countries  of  Europe. 

When  treating-  of  internal  communication,  and  of  the  state 
of  roads,  the  transition  is  easy  to  the  consideration  of  the 
modes  of  travelling  that  obtain.  Nor  is  less  praise  due  here 
than  on  the  former  head.  There  is  no  regular  supply  of  post- 
horses  kept,  except  in  those  places  where  the  thoroughfare  is 
very  great:  but  they  may  at  once  be  had  by  a  traveller  send- 
ing forward  a  peasant  to  bespeak  them.  The  usual  mode  of 
supplying  such  horses,  may  be  explained  in  a  few  words. 
Horses  are  supplied  by  the  country  people  in  proportion  to 
the  quantity  of  land  they  rent ;  most  persons  generally  send 
one  or  more  horses  to  the  nearest  post-house,  where  they  re- 
main twenty-fovu'  hours ;  during  which  time,  if  employed,  com- 
pensation is  of  course  obtained,  but  if  otherwise,  no  remune- 
ration is  received.  Travelling  is  unusually  cheap,  because  one 
half  only  of  the  charge  is  paid  by  the  hirer,  the  other  being 
defrayed  in  the  shape  of  a  tax,  by  the  landholders.  I  found, 
says  Coxe,  travelling  so  exceedingly  cheap  in  Sweden,  that 
during  a  course  of  500  miles,  my  whole  expenses,  including 
the  prime  cost  of  my  cart,  the  hire  of  post-horses,  the  gratui- 
ties to  the  drivers,  and  the  accommodations  on  the  road,  did 
not  amount  to  20/..  the  drivers  being  the  peasants  themselves, 
who  usually  attend  with  their  own  horses,  and  are  contented 
with  a  small  acknowledgment  of  about  2d.  or  3d.  for  each  post. 
The  horses  are  small,  but  lively  and  active,  and  they  general- 
ly went  at  the  rate  of  six  or  seven  miles  in  an  hour.  To  Swe- 
den, says  Mr.  Conway,  I  give  the  travelling  premium  over 
every  other  country.  I  may  still  farther  state  that  the  travel- 
ler is  in  no  danger  of  being  imposed  upon;  and  he  will  every- 
where find  clean  inns,  passably  good  fare,  cheap  bills,  and 
civil  people. 

Great  attention  has  been  paid  to  the  cultivation  of  general 
learning  among  the  people  of  Sweden,  and  it  is  stated  to  be  a 
rare  occurrence  to  meet  with  a  Swede,  however  low  in  rank, 
unable  to  read ;  education  being  there  as  generally  diffused 
as  in  Scotland.  A  law,  in  truth,  exists,  declaring  that  every 
person,  whether  male  or  female,  in  the  kingdom,  should  be 
taught  this  necessary  accomplishment.  The  number  of  public 
instructors  paid  by  government,  in  1825,  was  968,  in  addition 
to  at  least  an  equal  number  whose  remuneration  is  obtained 
30* 


354  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

SWEDEN. 

solely  from  their  employers.  Orders  have  recently  been  given 
by  the  king,  to  establish  schools  on  the  Lancasterian  system. 
Government,  indeed,  is  doing  all  in  its  power  to  introduce  im- 
provements in  teachinii;  and  pays  no  less  than  £00,1)00  annu- 
ally, in  the  shape  of  salaries,  allowances  to  the  poorer  stu- 
dents, &.C.  The  clergy  take  all  seminaries  of  learning,  par- 
ticularly schools,  under  their  jiarticular  jurisdiction,  ami  labor 
bj'  lilteral  attention  to  promote  the  object  which  such  institu- 
tions have  in  view. 

The  first  of  May  mid  Mi(hvmv}pr-(lay,  are  consecrated  to 
mirth  and  festivity,  during  which  the  Swedes  display  all  their 
gayety  by  dances  and  songs;  the  greater  part  of  which  are 
national,  and  partake  of  the  gloom  of  the  climate.  On  iMon- 
day,  large  fires  are  lighted  in  the  fields,  as  emblematical  of  the 
natural  warmth  which  is  about  to  succeed  the  severity  of  a 
long  winter;  and  around  these  the  people  assemble  to  enjoy 
good  cheer,  and  amuse  themselves  witli  sjiorts.  On  the  eve 
of  Midsunmier-day,  a  season  still  more  calculated  to  inspire 
hilarity  and  joy,  the  houses  are  ornamented  with  boughs,  and 
the  young  men  and  women  dance  roimd  a  pole  till  the  morn- 
ing. They  then  take  a  few  hours  repose  ;  after  v\hich  they  re- 
pair to  the  church  to  implore  the  divine  protection,  and  then 
give  themselves  up  to  fresh  amusements. 

Conaiderahle  nttrvtion  has  been  paid  by  the  Swedes  to  agri- 
culture, but  owing  to  the  poverty  of  the  soil,  they  scarcely 
raise  enough  for  home  consumption.  In  respect  to  summer 
agricultural  operations,  the  Swedish  farmer  is  obliged  to  ob- 
serve the  greatest  despatch,  or  the  season  will  be  gone.  Sum- 
mer bursts  suddenly  from  winter,  and  vegetation  is  quick,  the 
valleys  are  green  in  a  few  days,  wliich  were  before  covered 
with  snow:  this  verdant  prospect  lasts  about  three  months, 
during  which  short  period  they  sow  and  plant;  the  women 
here  taking  ujjon  themselves  the  toils  of  husbamiry,  go  to 
plough,  and,  when  ready,  thrash  out  the  corn  ;  nor  does  female 
industry  stop  here;  they  also  row  ui)on  the  water,  serve  the 
bricklaytsrs,  and,  like  porters,  carry  bmdens:  like  the  men, 
they  are  in  gt-niMal  healthy,  coniitlaisanf,  and  courageous  ; 
both  sexes  can  endure  hunger,  cold,  and  poverty.  Their  ani- 
mals are  similar  to  those  of  Norway.  To  their  horses  a  de- 
cided preference  is  given  over  those  of  Germany,  for  purposes 
of  war.  Sweden  abounds  in  venison  and  lish,  and  the  Gulf 
of  Finland  furnishes  them  with  inninnerable  seals,  from  which 
lliey  produce  train-oil  in  suflQcient  (juantity  to  render  it  an  ar- 
ticle of  commerce,  wliich  tliey  ex|)ort.  There  is  excellent 
pasturage,  but  not  muili  corn.  Thr  neat  cattle  and  sheep  do 
not  seem  to  present  any  thing  remarkable. 

The  manufactures  of  this  country  are  not  numerous,  consist- 
ing chiefly  of  those  of  iron,  copper,  tar,  pitch,  hemp,  and  tim- 
ber :  of  these,  iron  is  the  most  considerable ;  nor  is  it  to  be 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  355 

LAPLAND. 


wondered  at  when  the  number  of  mines  in  the  kingdom  is 
about  25,600. 

Herrings  also  form  a  considerable  article  of  export,  while 
those  of  importation  are  chiefly  tobacco,  sugar,  coffee,  wines, 
silks,  and  drugs.  And  as  this  country's  growth  of  corn  is  in 
general  inadequate  to  its  consumption,  grain  of  various  kinds 
is  annually  imported,  particularly  rye. 

A  wedding  in  Siceden,  says  Dr.  Clarke,  is  alwa3'^s  a  pleasing 
and  singular  sight  for  strangers.  Both  the  bride  and  bride- 
groom are  dressed  in  black.  The  bride  is  decorated,  from 
her  head  to  her  waist,  with  a  profusion  of  artificial  flowers, 
made  either  by  the  minister's  wife,  or  by  some  ingenious 
friend,  of  colored  paper.  On  her  head,  she  wears  a  silver 
crown,  richly  gilt,  and  kept  on  by  a  double  chain,  which, 
hanging  down  on  either  side  of  her  head,  she  holds  by  one 
hand.  After  the  mai'riage  ceremony  has  been  performed, 
feasting  begins,  and  is  continued  during  an  entire  week. 
In  this  interval,  the  most  intimate  friends  of  the  new-married 
couple  bring  large  sheets  of  ornamented  paper,  covered  with 
vases  and  various  devices,  somewhat  like  English  valentines, 
and  containing  also  the  names  of  the  parties,  and  the  date  of 
their  marriage.  These  generally  remain  for  many  years  in 
the  houses  where  the  wedding  festival  has  been  held;  the 
owners  setting  the  highest  value  upon  them. 


18.  LAPLAND. 


The  Laplanders  have  a  swarthy  cnmple.rion,  black,  short 
hair,  a  wide  mouth,  hollow  cheeks,  and  a  chin  somewhat  long 
and  pointed.  Their  eyes  are  weak  and  watery,  in  conse- 
quence, it  is  supposed,  of  their  smoky  habitations,  or  the  dri- 
ving and  glaring  snows  of  winter,  which  often  have  the  effect 
of  depriving  the  natives  of  sight  for  several  days,  after  return- 
ing from  a  hunting  excursion.  They  possess  great  strength 
of  body,  and  are  capable  of  undergoing  extraordinary  de- 
grees of  labor.  They  are  not  less  remarkable  for  swiftness 
of  foot  and  bodily  agility,  and  are  inured,  from  their  infancy, 
to  every  kind  of  activity  and  exertion.  They  are  rather  of 
diminutive  stature,  a  circumstance  which  has  been  generally 
ascribed  to  the  severity  of  their  climate  and  the  scantiness  of 
their  diet.  Their  slouching  gait  and  want  of  artificial  heels, 
give  them,  however,  the  appearance  of  being  lower  than  they 
are  in  reality  ;  and,  as  the  boys  have  often  the  air  of  mature 
years,  and  are  employed  in  driving  the  sledges,  it  is  not  un- 
likely tliat  they  may  have  been  mistaken  by  many  travellers 
for  men. 

The  dress  of  the  Laplanders  consists  of  a  conical  cap,  in  the 


356  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

> 

LAPLAND. 

form  of  a  sugar-loaf,  and  of  a  grayish  color,  made  with  eight 
seams,  which  are  covered  with  stripes  of  brown  cloth,  with  a 
tasst'l  of  various  colored  shreds  on  the  top,  and  a  border  of 
fur  round  the  lower  part :  sometimes  the  color  of  the  cap  is 
red,  and  the  stripes  yellow.  While  engaged  in  lumting,  or  in 
tending  the  reindeer,  they  wear  also  a  kind  of  riding-hood, 
which  covers  the  whole  head,  breast,  and  shoulders,  having 
only  a  small  opening  to  look  through.  The  men  rarely  wear 
any  covering  about  their  necks,  which  are  exposed  naked  to 
the  weather,  with  no  other  protection  but  what  is  derived  from 
the  thick  collars  of  their  coats.  The  coat,  which  serves  at 
once  as  shirt  and  outer  garment,  is  generally  made  of  sheep- 
skin, with  the  wool  upon  it  turned  next  the  skin,  and  reaches 
below  the  knees,  when  not  tied  up  with  a  giidle.  It  is  open  in 
front  halfway  down  the  bosom,  below  which  it  is  fastened 
with  hooks  as  far  as  the  lower  part  of  the  stomach.  The  col- 
lar is  high,  and  thick  quilted  with  cloth,  frequently  ornan)entcd 
with  different  colored  threads,  and  extending  a  little  way  down 
the  bosom  on  each  side.  Instead  of  pockets,  they  carry  a  lit- 
tle bag  hanging  over  the  breast,  divided  into  two  compart- 
ments, and  containing  their  tobacco-pipe,  tinder-box,  tobacco, 
and  spoon.  The  great-coat,  made  of  kersey,  or  reindeer  skin, 
with  the  hairy  side  outwards,  is,  like  the  jacket,  open  only  at 
the  breast,  and  provided  with  an  upright  stiffened  collar,  with 
a  running  string  to  draw  it  close  about  the  neck.  The  collar, 
the  opening  at  the  breast,  the  shoulder-band,  the  cuffs  of  the 
sleeve,  and  the  bottom  of  the  coat  and  jacket,  are  commonly 
bord(Med  with  cloth  or  furs  of  different  colors,  and  worked 
with  threads  of  various  hues.  They  use  no  stockings,  but 
wear  a  kind  of  pantaloons  of  coarse  cloth,  or  tanned  leather, 
or  the  skin  of  the  reindeer's  legs,  fitted  close  to  the  liirftjs. 
Their  shoes  are  made  fnmi  the  skin  of  the  reindeer,  the  soles 
being  taken  from  the  forehead,  and  the  upper  IcattuT  from  the 
legs  of  the  animal.  They  wear  leather  belts  ornamented  with 
tin,  and  witli  thongs  f>f  leather,  to  which  are  attached  tin  balls, 
keys,  &c.,  hanging  down  behind.  The  women  wear  caps  of 
woolh^n  or  linen  cloth,  with  stripes,  and  borders  of  yellow 
cloth,  and  ribands  of  gold  or  silver  tinsel,  and  use  riding-hoods 
when  at)road,  like  those  of  the  men,  excejit  that  the  former  is 
gathered  into  |)laits  before  and  behind,  and  is  rather  shorter 
than  that  of  the  otiier  sex,  while  the  latter  is  longer.  The 
othi-r  parts  of  their  dress  are  little  different  from  those  of  the 
men;  but  their  gloves  and  shoes  are  gener;illy  of  white  skins, 
and  their  girdles  more  ornamented.  They  wear  also  ker- 
chiefs, or  mantles  of  Russian  linen  or  cotton,  and  narrow 
ajuons  of  the  same  stulf>,  al\v;iys  furnished  with  a  fringe  or 
border.     All  their  articles  of  dress  are  made  by  the  women.* 

The  Lapps,  who  do  not  exceed  ten  thousand  in  number,  are 
divided   into   two  classes,  viz. :    those  who  live   in    huts   or 

•  New  Eklinburgh  Encyclopedia. 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  357 

DIET — HUTS, 

gammes,  on  the  sea-coast,  and  subsist,  in  a  great  measure,  by 
fishing;  and  those  who  live  in  the  interior,  and  depend  chiefly 
upon  the  reindeer  for  support.  The  latter  dwell  in  tents,  and 
wander  from  place  to  place,  as  the  seasons  or  other  circum- 
stances may  render  necessary. 

The  huts  of  the  Lapps  are  of  a  most  wretched  description ; 
not  more  than  eight  or  ten  feet  in  diameter,  and  from  four  to 
six  feet  in  height;  not  unlike  a  baker's  oven  in  shape.  They 
are  sometimes  built  with  stones  and  sods,  and  roofed  with 
beams  and  raflers,  with  small  wood  between  them,  over  which 
are  laid  bushes  and  turf,  with  fine  earth  on  the  top ;  sometimes 
they  are  constructed  only  of  branches,  covered  over  with  orrass, 
or  moss,  and  this  so  negligently,  that  the  wind  penetrates  in 
every  direction.  A  hole  at  the  top  serves  both  for  window 
and  chimney;  and  instead  of  a  door,  there  are  two  low  vault- 
ed passages,  through  which  it  is  necessary  to  crawl  on  the 
hands  and  knees  to  gain  admission  to  the  interior.  These 
passages  are  of  different  dimensions ;  through  the  smallest, 
the  men  sally  forth  to  their  hunting,  or  other  pursuits;  but  no 
woman  attempts  the  use  of  this  entry,  lest  she  should  meet  a 
man  at  his  departure,  a  circumstance  that  would  be  deemed  a 
bad  omen,  and  cause  him  to  return  and  sit  idle  during  the  re- 
mainder of  the  day.  Separate  parts  of  the  limited  space  of 
%3se  huts  are  assigned  to  each  branch  of  the  family.  The  fire, 
in  the  centre,  separates  the  two  sides ;  the  side  opposite  the 
door  is  deemed  the  most  honorable,  and  reserved  for  the 
master  and  mistress.  The  children  are  next  them;  and  the 
servants  nearest  the  door. 

The  tents  of  the  inland  Lapps,  composed  of  stakes  set  up- 
right in  the  ground,  and  fastened  together  at  the  top  in  a  con- 
ical form,  are  covered  with  coarse  linen  or  woollen  cloth, 
sometimes  with  sail  cloth.  The  side  most  exposed  to  the  wind 
is  protected  by  a  double  covering.  The  seats  within  are  com- 
posed of  soft  reindeer  skins  and  white  woollen  covers.  The 
quality  of  this  skin  and  cover  also  determines  the  rank  of  the 
place,  and  of  the  person  who  is  to  occupy  it. 

In  bounds  so  restricted,  it  is  almost  inconceivable  how  a 
numerous  family  can  herd  together  for  many  months,  as  the 
Lapps  are  obliged  to  do.  All  the  members  of  the  family,  in- 
deed, are  rarely  assembled  at  one  time :  the  herd  of  reindeer 
demands  their  presence  and  attention,  even  during  the  most 
stormy  nights ;  and  men  and  bo3^s,  wives  and  daughters,  take 
tlie  post  of  watching  alternately,  twice  or  thrice  a  day.  Each 
goes  out  in  turn  with  several  dogs,  which  belong  to  that  indi- 
vidual alone,  whose  commands  only  they  will  obey;  and  the 
guards  which  they  relieve  return  with  their  hungry  dogs. 
Hence,  it  not  unfrequently  happens  that  ten  or  a  dozen  run 
over  the  heads  of  persons  sleeping  in  the  gavime,  in  quest  of 
comfortable  spots  for  themselves  to  rest  in ;  and  when  the 
Lapp  returns,  wearied,  he  always  shares  his  reindeer  flesh 


35S  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

LAI'LAiND. 

and  his  soup  witli  liis  dog,  though  he  would  hardly  part  with 
it  for  either  father  or  mother. 

The  maritime  Laplanders  subsist  on  Jish,  fish-livers,  and 
train  oil;  and  of  these  they  procure  only  a  scanty  snjtply; 
hence,  they  are  continually  as[iiring  to  the  rank  of  the  moun- 
taineers, or  Fichlt  Lapp.s.  The  latter,  as  long  as  they  can 
keep  up  a  stock  of  three  or  four  hundred  reindeer,  are  in  tole- 
rable prosperity;  f<>r  they  can  afford  to  kill  as  many  of  them 
as  are  necessary  for  food  and  clothing,  shoes  and  boots,  and 
to  sell  besides  a  few  skins,  hides,  and  horns,  to  the  merchants, 
in  exchanf^e  for  meal,  brandy,  or  woollen  stuffs.  But  when  a 
family  is  brought  so  low  as  to  possess  only  a  hundred  rein- 
deer, they  give  up  their  pastoral  life,  and  get  towards  the  sea 
or  lake,  to  gain  from  the  waters  that  subsistence  which  they 
can  no  longer  find  on  the  land. 

"Every  day,"  says  Dr.  Clarke,  "I  have  seen  reindeer  flesh 
cooked  in  all  these  ^a7?/m(",v,  for  the  whole  family,  in  large  iron 
kettles.  Each  ])erson  certainly  received  more  than  a  pound 
for  his  share.  When  the  flesh  was  cooked  it  was  immediately 
torn  asunder  hy  the  master  of  the  house,  with  his  lingers,  and 
divided  out  among  the  family;  and  the  eagerness  with  which 
each  person  received  his  allowance,  and  the  rapidity  with 
which  they  strove,  as  for  a  wager,  to  tear  it  with  the  teeth  and 
fingers,  are  almost  inconceivable.  In  the  mean  time,  the  broth 
remains  in  the  kettle,  and  boiled  up  with  reindeer  milk,  made 
thick  with  rye  or  oat-meal,  and  sometimes,  though  seldom,  with 
a  little  salt.  This  broth  is  then  distributed,  and  swallowed 
witli  the  same  hungry  avidity."* 

The  blood  of  tlie  reindeer  also  supplies  these  people  with 
food;  it  is  put,  either  alone  or  mixed  with  wild  berries,  into  the 
stomach  of  the  animal  from  whicli  it  was  taken,  antl  being 
boiled,  affords  an  article  fnthe  table  not  very  dissimilar  to  the 
black  puddings  of  other  countries.  Besides  the  reindeer,  the 
Lapps  obtain  a  su|)ply  from  the  chase,  at  which  they  are  very 
expert,  and  they  eat  all  kinds  of  wild  animals,  not  excepting  such 
as  are  earniverous,  and  birds  of  jirey  :  but  l)ears'  flesh  is  their 
greatest  delicacy.  Th(;  maiitime  Lapjis  likewise  (\itlish  of  ev- 
ery description,  even  to  the  sea-dog.  Their  winter  provisions 
consist  chiefly  of  flesh  and  fish,  dried  in  the  open  air,  and  eaten 
without  any  farther  cooking.  Their  common  drink  is  water, 
sometimes  mi.xed  with  milk;  and  they  also  are  fond  of  Ijroths 
and  fish  .soups.  Brandy  is  very  scarce  among  them  ;  but  tliey 
are  very  fond  of  it;  and  a  glass  of  it  will  always  ensure  enter- 
tainment to  a  travel!*  r  in  their  lints,  when  every  appeal  to  their 
liuiiianity  would  be  made  in  vain. 

Guf.sts  on  a  visit,  are  entertained  with  singing,  and  presented 
with  soft  clean  skins  to  sit  u|)on.  The  men  talk  gravely,  and 
considerably  of  the  weather,  and  of  hunting  and  fishing:  they 

♦  Clarke's  Travels. 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  359 

SUPERSTITIONS — MARRIAGES. 

mutually  bewail  their  deceased  relations,  with  an  harmonious 
howl,  and  then  divert  themselves  with  little  stories.  In  the  mean 
time  a  horn  with  snuff  goes  constantly  round.  When  the  vic- 
tuals are  laid  down,  the  guests  affect  indifference,  and  suffer 
themselves  to  be  pressed  to  eat  by  the  host,  lest  they  should 
appear  poor  or  half  starved. 

Notwithstanding  the  great  pains  that  the  Danes  and  Swedes 
have  taken  to  inform  the  minds  of  the  Lapps,  the  majority  of 
them  continue  to  practise  superstitious  and  idolatrous  rites. 
Augury  and  witchcraft  are  favorite  pursuits  with  them.  Though 
professedly  Christians,  they  still  pray  to  their  ancient  idols, 
which  consist  of  the  trunks  of  trees,  with  the  upper  parts  rude- 
ly carved  to  resemble  the  human  face,  for  the  increase  and 
safety  of  their  herds;  and  having  thus  forsaken  the  living  and 
true  God,  who  alone  can  give  peace  of  conscience  and  just  con- 
fidence, it  is  rro  wonder  that  their  minds  are  continually  har- 
assed by  fear :  if,  therefore,  they  meet  any  thing  in  the  morn- 
ing which  they  deem  ominous,  they  return  home,  and  will  not 
stir  out  again  during  the  whole  day. 

The  principal  instrument  of  their  magical  rites  is  the  Runic 
drum,  which  consists  of  a  narrow  oval  frame,  covered  on  one 
side  with  a  skin,  and  furnished  at  the  other  with  pieces  of  iron 
or  brass,  hung  closely  to  it,  so  as  to  make  a  rattling  or  jingling 
noise,  something  like  a  tambarine.  Strange  figures,  intended 
to  represent  the  heavenly  bodies,  birds,  beasts,  rivers,  with 
many  other  characters,  are  painted  on  the  skin.  The  noaaid, 
or  sorcerer,  lays  a  ring  upon  the  drum,  and  then  beating  the 
skin  with  a  hammer,  made  of  the  horn  of  the  reindeer,  draws 
his  prognostications  from  the  progress  which  the  ring  makes 
over  the  various  figures  by  the  vibration.  Families,  in  general, 
possess  such  a  drum,  which  the  Lapp  always  consults  before 
he  undertakes  a  journey  ;  and  it  is  his  guide  upon  all  ordinary 
occasions;  but  in  affairs  of  greater  moment,  he  sends  for  the 
noaaid  to  consult  it  for  him.  These  drums  are  preserved  with 
great  care  and  secrecy ;  nor  dare  a  woman  approach  the  place 
w^here  they  are  kept,  much  less  may  she  presvmie  to  touch  one 
of  them. 

The  Lapps  marry  very  early  ;  but  a  youth  is  not  entitled  to 
take  a  wife  till  he  has  caught  and  killed  a  reindeer.  His  friends 
first  court  the  father  of  the  object  of  his  choice,  with  presents 
of  brandy,  of  whieh  even  the  intended  bride  pai'takes.  If  the 
proposal  be  accepted,  the  young  Lapp  is  admitted  to  the  pres- 
ence of  his  fair  one,  and  offers  her  something  to  eat,  which  she 
rejects  before  company,  but  accepts  in  private.  He  also 
promises  wedding  clothes,  and  makes  presents  of  rings, 
spoons,  silver  cups,  and  rix-dollars.  The  richest  also  give 
silver  girdles,  and  silk  or  cotton  neckerchiefs.  Should  the 
parents,  after  having  given  their  consent,  depart  from  their 
word,  they  must  make  good  all  expenses,  even  to  the  brandy 
drank  at  the  first  visit.    The  parties  being  thus  betrothed,  the 


3^30  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

FINLAND. 

young  man  is  allowed  to  visit  his  mistress  from  time  to  time; 
and  as  eveiy  visit  is  purchased  fr(5m  the  father  with  a  bottle  of 
brandy,  the  courtship  is  sometimes  jirolonfff^d  for  two  or  three 
years.  At  last,  the  banns  are  ]iublisiied  in  the  cliurcli,  and  tlie 
marriage  immediately  succeeds  their  iiul)licati(in ;  but  the 
bridegroom  is  obliged  to  serve  his  father-in-law  for  four  years 
after  marriage.  He  then  takes  home  his  wife,  and  lier  fortune, 
which  ordinarily  consists  of  a  few  sheep,  a  kettle,  and  some 
triiiing  articles;  l)ut  the  dowry  of  the  wealthy  consists  of  from 
thirty  to  fort)'^,  or  even  fifty,  reindeer,  besides  vessels  of  silver, 
and  other  utensils. 

lite  Lapps  are  rarely  sick,  and  generallj'  attain  a  very  great 
age.  Even  old  men  are  hearty,  and  scarcely  distinguisliable 
from  the  young.  Blindness  is  the  chief  malady  to  which  they 
are  subject;  the  dazzling  reflection  of  the  snow  without,  and 
the  effect  of  smoke  within  their  dwellings,  so  operate  upon 
their  eyes,  that  few  of  them  retain  their  sight  with  any  degree 
of  vigor  after  they  are  advanced  in  years. 

When  a  Lapp  is  supposed  to  be  apinoaching  the  close  of 
life,  his  friends  exhort  him  to  die  in  the  Christian  faith ;  but 
they  are  unwilling  to  attend  him  in  his  last  moments.  As  soon 
as  he  expires,  even  his  nearest  kindred  fiee  from  the  place 
with  the  utmost  precipitation,  from  the  belief  that  the  spirit  re- 
mains in  or  about  the  corpse,  and  delights  in  doing  mischief  to 
the  living. 

The  sepulchre  consists  of  an  old  sledge,  turned  bottom  up- 
wards, over  the  spot  where  the  body  is  buried.  An  axe  and 
a  tinder-box  are  placed  by  the  side  of  a  man's  corjise.  and 
scissors  and  needles  by  that  of  a  woman,  from  a  supposition 
that  they  will  be  useful  to  them  in  the  other  world.  From  a  be- 
lief that  the  felicity  of  a  future  state  consists  in  eating,  drink- 
ing brandy,  smoking,  &c.,  they,  for  the  first  three  years  after 
the  decease  of  a  frieml  or  relation,  dig  holes,  from  time  to  time, 
by  the  side  of  the  grave,  and  dejjosite  therein  a  small  quantity 
of  tobacco,  or  whatever  the  deceased  was  fondest  of  when  liv- 
insr.* 


19.  FINLA.ND. 


The  Fins  appear  to  have  been  the  original  inhabitants  of 
Sweden,  to  which  country  Finland  formerly  belonged,  but 
portions  of  which  were  at  different  times  acquired  by  Russia, 
and  in  lSo;»,  the  whole  passed  under  the  dominion  of  the  lat- 
ter. The  Fins  are  decidedly  a  distinct  race  from  the  Russians; 
and  their  dress,  manners,  and  character  are  also  different 
They  are  of  a  middle  stature,  fair  complexion,  generally  red 

♦  Aspiii's  Cosmoraina. 


ISicc  '^/i  P':asants.         P-  351. 


•X-y> 


i 


.^n^^^^^h^ 


A  Peasant  of  Finland.         p.  36 1. 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  361 


COSTUME — HOUSES. 


hair,their  beards  shaven,  and  their  hair,  parted  at  the  top,  is 
suffered  to  hana;  over  their  shoulders.  A  thoughtful  disposi- 
tion, often  darkening  into  melancholy,  and  a  singular  lan- 
guage, which  has  the  peculiarity  of  being  without  prepositions, 
complete  the  national  portrait. 

The  modern  Fin  is  represented  as  brave  and  warlike,  at  the 
same  time  honest,  laborious,  and  capable  of  enduring  great 
hardships ;  but  he  bears  the  reproach  of  being  sometimes  ob- 
stinate and  inflexible.  The  Lutheran  form  of  Christianit}'  was 
introduced  among  the  Fins  by  the  Swedes;  and  since  the  an- 
nexation of  their  country  to  Russia,  no  attempt  has  been  made 
to  change  their  mode  of  religious  worship. 

Dr.  Clarke  describes  the  Costume  of  the  Finnish  peasant  as 
very  elegant.  They  wear  boots  which  are  Vv'ater-proof,  and 
which  enable  them  to  ford  streams  or  traverse  drifted  snows 
without  inconvenience  ;  from  their  being  lined  with  fur,  warmth 
and  comfort  are  afforded  to  the  feet  and  legs,  and  the  lower  part 
of  the  thighs  shielded  from  the  driving  rain,  sleet,  and  snow; 
they  wear  tight  breeches,  though  nearly  concealed  by  their 
boots,  and  the  flaps  of  a  very  long  waistcoat,  or  rather  jacket, 
■which  is  girtTound  the  loins,  and  fastened  behind;  the  girdle 
being  of  a  different  color  from  the  drapery.  Superadded  is  a 
coat  made  of  the  skin  of  some  animal,  which  for  accommoda- 
tion in  cold  weather,  is  worn  with  the  fur  inward ;  at  the  ex- 
tremity of  each  sleeve  is  a  cufFof  fur ;  the  neck  is  defended  by 
a  collar  of  the  same  comfortable  article,  and  that  part  of  the 
hat  or  cap  which  envelops  the  temples,  the  upper  part,  or 
crown,  being  of  cloth:  the  hands  are  immured  in  leathern 
gloves,  their  hair  wantons  o'er  the  shoulders  in  all  the  negli- 
^gence  of  nature,  and  mustaches  are  indulged  a  place  on  the 
upper  lip. 

The  houses  in  Finland,  and  frequently  even  the  churches 
and  other  public  edifices,  are  constructed  o^  wood,  generally 
painted  red  ;  but  they  are  nevertheless  sufficiently  warm,  and 
sometimes  too  much  so  for  the  feelings  of  those  v/ho  are  not 
accustomed  to  a  close  atmosphere.  "The  habitations  of  the 
peasants  are  well  built,  and  afford  complete  protection  from 
the  severity  of  the  winter  cold;  and,  notwithstanding  the  long 
duration  of  that  season,  and  the  seeming  sterility  of  the  soil, 
the  people  are  in  many  respects  better  provided  than  the  same 
class  in  miore  southern  regions.  They  can  generally  set  be- 
fore the  traveller,  at  least,'  fresh  and  curdled  milk,  salt  her- 
rings, or  a  little  salt  meat;  and  they  are  rich  in  all  that  they 
consider  as  constituting  the  enjoyments  of  life.  If  at  any  time 
they  have  any  more  money  than  their  immediate  wants  re- 
quire, they  either  lay  it  up  for  future  em.ergencies,  or  convert 
it  into  some  domestic  utensil;  and  it  is  not  uncommon  in  a 
small  wooden  dwelling,  to  see  the  water  presented  in  a  silver 
vessel  of  the  value  of  fifty  or  sixty  rix-doUars.  The  women 
3] 


362  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

FINLAND. 


are  warmly  clothed,  and  above  their  other  garments  wear  a 
large  linen  shift,  which  gives  them  the  appearance  of  being 
in  an  undress.  In  the  house,  the  men  generally  throw  oil"  their 
coat,  and  even  in  tJiat  manner  })erform  tiieir  ordmary  labors 
in  the  open  air;  but  when  tlieyan  out  to  a  ;j;iT'ater  distance  in 
the  winter  .'reason,  tiiey  weal"  a  knid  of  short  coat,  made  ul'caif- 
skin  or  a  woollen  surtout,  fastened  round  the  middle  with  a 
girdle;  and  pull  over  their  boots  coarse  woollen  stockings, 
both  for  waiiuth  and  for  safer  walking  on  the  ice.  Most  oitiie 
peasants  have  a  small  house  for  the  ])urpobe  of  taking  a  warm 
bath,  which  is  done  in  the  following  manner.  A  number  of 
stones,  in  the  innermost  part  of  the  chamber,  are  heated  by 
Hre  till  they  become  n\\ ;  and  water  bring  thrown  upon  them 
in  this  state,  the  bathtis  are  involved  in  a  cloud  of  thick  hot 
vapor  air;  they  remain  naked  for  the  space  of  half  an  hour,  or 
even  a  whole  hour,  rubbing  their  bodies,  or  lushing  them  with 
bunches  ol'twigs  ;  and  fre«iui'ntly  go  out,  witiiout  any  c(jvenng, 
iiito  the  open  air,  or  even  loll  themselves  in  tlie  snow,  thus  ma- 
king an  instantaneous  transition  of  perhajis  100  degrees,  which 
is  almost  equivalent  to  a  passage  from  boiling  to  freezing  wa- 
ter. This  practice,  tliry  ahlrm,  has  a  most  invigorating  effect 
upon  their  frames,  and  recruits  their  strength  as  much  as  rest 
or  sleep. 

The  Finnish  peasaiUnj  are,  at  all  sp.annni},  hufiily  emjAnycd 
in  active  labor;  and  even  in  the  depth  of  winter,  lind  a'.nm- 
dance  of  employment  both  in  the  house  and  abroad.  Within, 
they  are  engaged  in  making  nets,  constructing  cartwheels, 
forming  figoLs  for  fuel,  or  thrashing  their  corn;  and  out  of 
doors,  they  cut  (htwii  timber,  and  easil}'  drag  over  the  ice  oi 
snow  such  enormous  trunks,  as  they  are  scarcely  able  to 
move  in  summer.  Fishing  and  hunting  may  be  considered 
as  their  m-crssary  avocations,  rather  tha.".  voluntary  ainuse- 
nients.  In  iishing  with  hooks,  they  sco^ur  over  the  ice  in' long 
M'ooden  jiatlens,  pushing  tlr(?inselves  with  incredible  velocity, 
by  means  of  a  pole  which  tliey  hold  in  their  hands  ;  and  when 
they  have  reachl^l  the  place  where  th'\v  intend  to  fish,  they 
spread  a  triangular  sail  to  shelter  them  lioin  the  wind,  perfo- 
rate the  ice  with,  a  chisel,  plilnge  their  line  into  the  sea  to  the 
d<-plh  of  about  30  feet,  and  are  sometimes  obliged  to  continue 
stirring  th(;  surface  of  the  water  to  prevent  its  fre(?zing.  In 
fishing  with  nets,  they  make  two  openings  in  the  ice,  and  by 
means  of  ropes  and  long  poles,  pass  the  nets  from  the  one  to 
the  other,  which  they  afterwards  draw  out  with  great  labor. 
In  autumn,  when  the  frost  begins  to  set  in,  and  th«'  ice  is  most 
transpun-iit,  the  lishfrman  courses  along  the  rivers  with  a 
wooden  club  or  mallet  in  his  hand  ;  and  when  he  observes  a 
fish  under  the  ice  in  shallov  water,  he  strikes  a  violent  blow 
)t<-rpen<licnla!lv  above  it,  \  .h  at  once  breaks  the  ice  and 
stuas  tiie  fish,  so  that  he  easily  seizes  it  with  an  in.strument 
made  for  the  nurpose.     In  hunting  the  seals  they  take  post  in 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  363 


HUNTING — TRAVELLING. 


the  neighborhood  of  their  haunts,  behind  a  mass  of  ice,  and 
wait  till  one  of  them  comes  out  of  tlie  water.  It  frequently 
happens  that  the  hole  in  the  ice  by  which  he  ascends,  is  frozen 
over  almost  instantaneously;  and  the  hunters  then  fall  upon 
him  before  he  has  time  to  make  a  new  aperture  with  his  breath, 
or  at  least  before  he  can  reach  the  openini:!;,  should  it  still  be 
passable.  In  these  extremities,  the  animal  makes  a  desperate 
defence,  seizing  the  clubs  with  his  teeth,  and  attempting  to 
reach  the  assailant ;  but  the  slowness  of  his  motions  renders 
his  efforts  unavailing,  and  he  is  soon  despatched,  without 
much  risk.  The  Finlander's  mode  of  hunting  the  bear  re- 
quires a  greater  .degree  of  intrepidity  and  presence  of  mind. 
Instead  of  a  very  uncertain  weapon,  the  hunter  uses  an  iron 
lance  fixed  at  the  end  of  a  pole,  and  having  a  cross-bar  about 
a  foot  distant  from  the  point.  When  the  bear  has  been  irrita- 
ted to  rush  from  his  den,  and  is  rearing  himself  on  his  hind- 
legs  to  seize  his  dariag  antagonist,  the  peasant  drawing  back 
the  iron  lance  close  to  his  breast,  so  as  to  conceal  the  length 
of  his  weapon,  and  render  the  animal  less  watchful  against  its 
stroke,  advances  boldly  within  arm's  length  of  the  bear,  and 
plunges  the  point  into  his  heart.  The  cross-bar  prevents  the 
lance  from  passing  through  the  body,  keeps  the  animal  from 
reaching  the  hunter  with  his  paws,  and  serves  to  throw  him 
on  his  back,  while  the  wounded  bear  hastens  his  own  death 
by  holding  the  weapon  fast,  and  pressing  it  more  deeply  into 
the  wound.  A  still  more  hazardous  enterprise  is  the  seal- 
hunting  in  the  spring,  after  the  frozen  sea  breaks  up,  and  the 
ice  floats  in  shoals  upon  the  surface.  Four  or  five  persons 
set  sail  in  an  open  boat  with  one  small  mast;  and  expose 
themselves  during  the  space  of  a  month  or  more,  and  in  the 
most  unfavorable  circumstances,  to  all  the  dangers  of  the 
ocean.  In  this  pursuit,  their  little  bark  is  continually  placed 
between  masses  of  ice,  which  threaten  to  crush  it  to  pieces; 
and  in  order  to  reach  the  seals,  they  must  creep  along  the 
floating  shoals,  killing  them  as  they  repose  upon  the  ice.  Du- 
ring the  same  season  they  hunt  the  squirrel,  which  they  kill 
with  a  blunt  wooden  arrow,  shot  from  a  cross-bow,  that  they 
may  not  injure  the  skin.  The  bow  used  in  this  sport,  is  of  a 
very  ancient  construction,  extremely  heavy,  and  i-equiring 
great  strength  to  bend  it,  even  with  the  assistance  of  a  thong. 
The  peasantry  are  remarkably  dexterous  both  in  the  use  of 
this  bow,  and  of  the  fowling-piece,  loading  the  latter  always 
with  ball,  and  rarely  missing  the  smallest  bird.  They  employ 
for  this  purpose,  a  kind  of  rifle-gun,  with  a  narrow  bore, 
which  requires  but  a  very  small  charge,  and  yet  carries  to  a 
considerable  distance.  The  winter  also  is  the  principal  sea- 
son of  traffic  ;  and  all  the  great  fairs  are  held  in  Finland  and 
Sweden  in  that  time  of  the  year,  in  consequence  of  the  facility 
of  carrying  goods  over  the  ice,  and  travelling  in  sledges  on 
the  snow.  The  peasants  on  these  occasions  frequently  un- 
dertake journeys  of  three  or  four  hundred  English  miles. 


364  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

RUSSIA. 


carrying  aloni?  with  them,  whatever  articles  they  have  for 
sale.  In  Finland,  the  sledges  are  very  narrow,  containing 
only  one  person,  and  drawn  by  a  single  horse  ;  and  th(^  roads 
are  deep  ruts  formed  i)y  tlie  ;*ucce^-sive  passajre  of  these  ve- 
hicles, thus  admittiuir  none  of  a  lar;^er  siJie  than  what  are  gen- 
erally used  in  the  country.  The  circumstance  of  being  over- 
turned is  rarely  productive  of  any  serious  consequences;  and 
the  dancers  attendintr  the  trav(>ller  arise  chiefly  from  those 
parts  of  the  rivers  or  lakes  whcne  the  ice  is  insufficient  to 
support  the  weight.  Exceptine  the  bear,  which  rarely  comes 
from  his  den  to  attack  the  inhabitants,  until  he  is  first  pro- 
voked, the  only  other  savaere  cr«\itures  in  the  country,  are 
wolves;  and  those,  even  when  starving,  will  not  venture  sing- 
ly to  assail  the  passenger.  When  assembled,  however,  in 
herds,  and  impelled  by  famine,  they  sometimes  rush  upon 
the  horses  in  the  sledges;  and  should  the  traveller  be  over- 
turned and  left  upon  the  road,  he  must  fall  a  -prey  to  their  fe- 
rocity.* 

JVhen  about  to  ftnn  <i  matrimonial  connexion,  a  Finlander 
commissions  some  old  women  to  make  known  his  proposals 
to  the  object  of  his  affections,  and  at  the  same  time  sendinir  a 
present  of  a  handkerchief,  riband,  or  piece  of  money.  Tho 
messenger  waits  upon  the  yoiuig  woman  while  undressing  at 
night,  and  after  dwelling  on  the  praise  of  the  iover,  slips  hi» 
gift  into  the  fair  one's  bosom.  If  the  present  s  retained,  the 
young  people  consider  themselves  as  mutiiall /^  engaged,  and 
nothing  but  the  marriage  ceremony  is  wanting.  But  if  the 
present  be  returned,  this  indicates  a  refusal,  which  may  never- 
theless yield  to  a  second  proposal,  unless  the  young  woman, 
instead  of  returning  th*^  gift  with  her  hands,  suffers  it  to  drop 
to  the  ground,  which  is  coimted  a  positive  token  of  decided 
rejection.  At  the  marriag<',  one  of  the  frien<ls  or  n«>ighbors, 
with  the  orator  or  speaker,  does  the  honor  of  the  feast,  who 
generally  also  recites  verses,  or  makes  them  extempore,  suita- 
ble to  the  occasion  ;  and,  on  the  day  following,  after  address- 
ing some  advices  to  the  married  couple,  he  strikes  the  woman 
repeatedly  round  thi;  body  with  the  husband's  breeches,  com- 
manding her  to  be  fruitful,  and  to  furnish  him  with  heirs  of 
his  own  body. 


20.  RUSSIA. 


Perhaps,  in  no  population  of  equal  number  in  any  other 
part  of  the  earth,  is  there  so  great  a  variety  of  races  of  people, 
as  in  the  rjtl.OOri.Ofif)  which  the  Russian  empire  comprehends. 
They  may  be  thus  distinguished  and  divided :    1.  Those  of 

•  New  Edinburgh  Encyclopedia. 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  365 


PERSONAL  APPEARANCH — DRESS. 


Sclavonic  origin ;  the  Russians  (properly  so  called)  and  the 
Poles  are  of  this  race,  and  likewise  the  inhabitants  of  Lithua- 
nia, Courland,  &c.;  they  form  the  majority  of  the  population, 
amounting  to  about  34,000,000.  2.  Germans:  all  the  noblesse 
and  burghers  of  Finland,  Livonia,  Esthonia,  and  Courland, 
are  Germans,  as  well  as  most  of  the  colonists  in  the  interior 
and  south  of  the  empire:  with  these,  as  of  the  same  Gothic 
race,  may  be  enumerated  the  Swedes,  who  inhabit  Finland, 
and  the  Danes,  who  inhabit  two  of  the  Baltic  isles  belonging 
to  Russia.  3.  The  Fins:  these  are  subdivided  into  thirteen 
tribes,  the  principal  of  which  are  the  Fins  proper,  in  Finland; 
the  Esthonians,  and  Livonians,  in  the  governments  of  Riga, 
and  Revel;  the  Laplanders;  the  Permians,  and  the  Ostians, 
of  the  Ob.  4.  People  of  the  Tartar  race  :  of  these  there  are 
numerous  varieties;  the  chief  are,  the  Tartars  generally  so 
called,  who  inhabit  the  Crimea,  the  southern  districts  of  the 
Volga,  &c.  5.  Georgians,  Caucasians,  and  Circassians.  6.  Peo- 
ple of  the  Mongol  race :  these  are  subdivided  into  the  Mongols 
proper,  who  inhabit  the  southern  part  of  Siberia,  the  Calmucks, 
and  the  Bouriats.  7.  The  Samoyeds  ;  nomadic  tribes  on  the 
borders  of  the  Frozen  Ocean.  8.  Tlie  Manshures,  Yunguses, 
and  Lamutes.  9.  The  nomade  tribes  in  the  north  and  east  of 
Siberia.  10.  Turks  and  Armenians,  in  Moldavia,  and  Bessa- 
rabia. 

The  limits  of  the  present  work,  we  need  scarcely  add,  will 
not  admit  of  even  a  general  description  of  the  various  distinct 
classes  and  tribes  which  are  comprehended  in  this  immense 
empire.  We  shall  therefore  direct  the  attention  of  our  read- 
ers to  those  classes  only  which  possess  the  greatest  points  of 
interest. 

The  Russians  are  in  general  middle-sized,  robust,  and  vig- 
orous, differing  little  in  complexion  from  the  inhabitants  of 
Great  Britain.  Towards  the  north,  they  are  of  diminutive 
stature;  but  in  the  south,  tall  and  graceful.  With  mouth  and 
lips  small,  white  teeth,  nose  usually  small  and  turned  up- 
wards, low  forehead,  thick  and  bushy  beard,  and  tjie  hair  va- 
rying in  color  from  dark  brown  to  red  ;  the  general  expression 
of  tiie  Russian  countenance  is  that  of  gravity  rather  than  of 
sprightliness,  yet  indicative  of  good  nature.  The  females 
have  a  delicate  skin  and  fine  complexion,  which  they  often 
destroy  by  the  use  of  paint.  Their  personal  charms  decay 
prematurely,  and  their  intellect  and  accomplishments  are  rare- 
ly sufficient  to  preserve  the  empire  which  their  early  beauty 
had  acquired. 

The  dress  of  the  different  classes  of  Russia  exhibits  consid- 
erable variety.  In  summer  the  peasants  go  with  naked  feet, 
and  seldom  any  covering  on  their  heads ;  tlie  men  literally 
wear  nothing  more  than  a  shirt,  and  trousers  of  striped  linen. 
The  shirt  is  closed  at  the  neck,  with  a  buckle  or  clasp.    The 


366  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

RUSSIA. 

women  wear  a  blue  dress  of  dyed  linen,  closed  down  to  the 
point  with  buttons,  and  fastened  on  the  shoulders  with  clasps. 
It  is  called  a  scrrafan.  Their  heads  are  sometimes  bound 
with  handkerchiefs  of  various  colors. 

The  winter  dress  of  a  nobleman  consists  of  a  turban-formed 
cap  of  sable  for  the  head,  a  large  cloak  called  a  sfiaob,  with 
arms  lined  throut,diout  with  bear,  Liberian  fox,  racoon,  or 
other  skins,  coveriiiif  the  whole  body,  caped  and  cutfrd  with 
fur.  His  shoes,  which  are  called  kangees,  are  made  of  elk  or 
calf-skin. 

The  irives  of  the  native  merchants  are  dressed  in  all  the 
riclies  their  husbands  can  alford,  in  a  fashion,  hot,  stili,  and 
most  discordant  with  their  figures.  Their  petticoat  is  of  a 
brocade  silk,  traudily  flowered,  and  slunsj  on  their  shoulders 
by  a  kind  of  fi;allo\vses,  thick  with  embroidery;  the  body  is 
covered  with  a  jacket,  either  of  velvet  or  stuff,  bound  with 
gold  lace  and  colors.  Their  linen  sleeves  reach  to  the  elbow. 
Their  neck  and  arms  are  bare,  hunfj  with  beads,  necklaces, 
ear  and  finger-rin<TS  innumerable.  Some  wear  diadems  of 
gold  set  with  colored  stones  and  pearls  ;  others,  a  larjje  sijuare 
handkerchief  richly  shot  with  silver  and  various  hues,  and 
thrown  down  their  backs,  one  corner  being  ingeniously  wound 
round  their  heads,  making  a  simple  and  ))retty  coelfure.  They 
also  wear  boots,  made  of  NMtiier  or  velvet,  according  to  tht? 
pecuniary  ability  of  the  purchaser;  indeed  this  invention  for 
the  comfort  of  the  leg  is  so  respected  here,  that  the  smallest 
infants,  just  able  to  crawl,  are  encumbered  sooner  with  boots 
than  with  shirts. 

The  military  dress  of  the  Cotmack  consists  of  a  close  dark 
blue  jacket,  and  very  large  full  trousers,  under  which  they 
wear  drawers  and  boots.  Their  head  is  covered  with  a  high 
black  cap  of  sheep-skin  ;  a  red  liag  hangs  from  its  toi),  orna- 
mentcfl  with  a  chain  of  white  worsted  lace  and  tassels  ;  a  red 
strijie,  rather  broad,  runs  along  the  outside  of  the  trousers,  as 
well  as  a  cord  of  the  same  color  round  the  cap  and  al(>eves. 
A  single  row  of  buttons  closes  the  jacket  at  the;  breast.  A 
broad  leather  belt,  containing  cartriclges.  and  to  which  is  sus- 
j>ended  a  light  sabre,  confines  their  waist.  Their  princijjal 
weapons  are  a  pike,  about  eight  feet  long,  and  a  pair  of  pis- 
tols. A  black  belt  crosses  their  left  shoulder,  to  which  is  at- 
tached a  .sort  of  tin  cartouch-bo.x,  holding  anmiunition,  and 
surmounted  with  a  ramrod.  An  uncouth  saddle  is  bound  on 
the  horse,  somewhat  like  a  double  pillow,  under  which  is  a 
square  piece  of  oilcloth,  painted  in  various  colors.  There  are 
others,  but  a  great  similarity  prevails,  the  f)nly  difl'erence  be- 
ing in  the  color  of  the  dress,  which  is  pink,  and  having  tiie  ad- 
dition of  a  musket.* 

The  following  summary  of  the  character  of  the  Russians,  is 
•  Coitumes  of  Russia. 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER,  367 


NATIONAL  CHARACTER. 


from  the  pen  of  Dr.  Lyall.     "  The  Russians,"  says  he,  "  are 
insinuating  and  cunning,  deceitful   and   perfidious,   sensual 
and  immoral,  given  to  levity,  fond  of  novelty,  and  improvi- 
dent ;  with  the  command  of  little  money,  they  are  avaricious 
and  mean ;  when  cash  abounds,  they  are  generous,  ostenta- 
tious, and  prodigal;  they  are  cheerful,  good-humored,  and  so- 
cial; they  are  luxurious,  hospitable,  and  charitable;  they  love 
light  occupations  and  amusements,  as  plays,  operas,  masque- 
rades, exhibitions,  dancing,  singing,  and  instrumental  music, 
chess,  draughts,  and  billiards  ;  but  above  all,  playing  at  cards, 
to  which  whole  days,  and  weeks,  and  months,  and  years,  are 
devoted.     They  have  a  great  curiosity  to  pry  into  the  affairs 
of  others;  they  have  quick  apprehensions;  their  talent  for  im- 
itation is  universally  allowed ;  they  are  fluent  in  languages  ; 
a  few  are  endowed  with  good  parts  and  ingenuity,  and  are 
men  of  literature  ;  the  generality  are  moderately  well-inform- 
ed and  accomplished,  as  to  what  regards  the  exterior  of  life  ; 
few  are  distinguished  for  their  proficiency  in  the  sciences  ; 
tliey  are  accustomed  to  good  living,  but  are  generally  mode- 
rate in  their  cups  ;  they  are  disposed  to  indolence,  to  a  seden- 
tary mode  of  life,  and  to  much  sleep.     They  are  too  little  in 
the  habit  of  taking  bodily  exercise ;  and  yet  when  urged  by 
affairs  or  necessity,  they  are  excessively  active,  and  with- 
stand extraordinary  hardships  and  fatigue.     The  manners  of 
the  higher  and  travelled  nobility  are  easy,  elegant,  and  impo- 
sing ;  and  the  natives  of  no  country  can  make  themselves 
more  agreeable  to  foreigners.     The  manners  of  the  lower  no- 
iDility  are  affected,  consequential,  overbearing,  and  sometimes 
rude ;  though  some  few  of  them  are  endowed  with  amiable 
and  generous  passions.     From  a  certain  complaisance  and 
politeness  of  manner,  the  Russians  make  the  fairest  promises, 
and  the  most  flattering  assurances,  when  nothing  more  is  in- 
tended.    Being  uttered  without  meaning  or  sincerity,  you  can 
have  no  reliance  upon  them.     Having  gained  the  object  of  the 
moment,  which,  perhaps,  was  to  make  a  favorable  impression, 
they  think  no  more  of  the  matter,  and  laugh  at  you  for  having 
been  so  easily  duped."* 

The  Russians,  according  to  Dr.  Clarke,  possess  a  remark- 
able talent  for  imitation.  "Imitation,"  says  he,  "is  the  acme 
of  Russian  intellect,  the  principle  of  all  their  operations. 
They  have  nothing  of  their  own  ;  but  it  is  not  their  fault  if  they 
have  not  every  thing  which  others  invent.  Their  surprising 
powers  of  imitation  exceed  all  that  has  been  hitherto  known." 
To  the  accuracy  of  this  quotation,  Dr.  Lyall  remarks,  general 
assent  must  be  yielded ;  but  he  adds,  it  must  not  be  forgotten, 
that  Russia  has  produced  ingenious  historians,  and  meritorious 
poets,  who,  while  they  have  borrowed  much  from  the  other 
nations  of  Europe,  have  also  now  and  then  exhibited  original 

*  Lyall' s  Character  of  the  Russians,  &.c. 


368  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 


lU'ririlA. 


ideas  and  talents ;  and  a  few  of  them  have  written  well  in 
French. 

Another  characteristic  of  the  Russians  is  a  cHrio.tity  to 
pry  into  the  affairs  of  others.  This  trait  pertains  to  all  ranks. 
"With  tiie  greatest  ease,  the  nobles  ask  the  most  impertinent 
questions  with  respect  to  a  person's  connexions  and  familj'; 
his  property  and  revenues,  and  his  secret  affairs  and  private 
opinions.  Evasive  answers,  so  far  from  silencing  them,  only 
jirompt  farther  their  curiosity,  and  th(^y  continue  to  tease  him 
with  their  demands  in  all  forms,  either  till  he  lose  his  patience, 
and  show  symptoms  of  displeasure,  or  till  they  extract  some 
intelligence  from  him.  Nay,  so  singular  are  they,  that  they 
evidently  show  hurt  feelings  at  his  refusal  to  gratify  their  in- 
quisitiveness,  especially  if  lie  be  in  the  smallest  degree  dej)end- 
ant  upon  them.  They  are  not  contented  with  making  inquiries 
merely  of  himself;  they  apply  to  his  servant  women,  or  his 
servant  men,  to  his  lackey,  or  his  coachman,  or  to  anybody 
who  niay  be  able  to  give  them  information.  If  he  is  living  in 
one  of  their  families,  the  master  or  mistress,  generally,  is 
acquainted  with  every  thing  lie  does,  through  inquiries  made 
of  his  servants. 

Vermin  are  abundanf  in  /?i/s.<^ia,  especially  among  the  pea- 
santry. Many  of  the  nobles  are  also  surcharged  with  them, 
and  even  some  of  the  ladies  are  not  free  from  cnrporfol 
and  rruninl  insects,  and  of  course  require  to  use  the  close- 
teethed  comb.  At  the  same  time,  it  must  l)e  admitted,  that  e-i 
few  are  cleanly  in  their  persons.  The  warmth  of  the  Russian 
houses,  in  consequence  of  the  universal  use  of  stove.s,  and  of 
coverings  of  different  kinds  of  fur,  even  within-doors,  partly 
account  for  the  abundance  of  a  variety  of  vermin,  while  their 
filthy  manners  must  explain  the  origin  and  propagation  of  tlie 
rest. 

It  was  formerly  a  genera!  jiractice  for  individuals  of  all  ranks, 
and  at  thelirst  tables,  to  retain  the  same  knives  and  forks  dur- 
ing dinner,  at  the  conclusion  of  each  dish  cleaning  them  upon 
a  piece  of  bread,  or  sometimes  witlKJUt  this  ceremony,  lay- 
ing them  down  upon  the  tablecloth.  The  same  indecorous 
custom  still  jirevails,  except  in  the  houses  of  t!ie  more  ))olished 
nobles,  where  the  knives  and  forks,  when  put  down  upon  the 
plate,  are  taken  away  and  replaced  by  others;  but  among  th^ 
lower  classes,  when  left  u\nm  the  |)late,  they  are  taken  away, 
wiped,  and  returned,  so  that  the  same  knives  and  forks  are 
used  for  a  variety  of  dishes;  for  fish,  flesh,  and  fowl.  At  a  Rus- 
sian table  every  one  jileases  himself,  so  that  it  not  unfrequently 
happens  that  «)n(;  half  of  a  party  have  their  knives  and  fiirks 
changed,  while  the  f)ther  half  retain  theirs  from  th(>  commence- 
ment to  the  conclusion  of  the  re[)ast.  In  some  houses,  little 
low  silver  stands  are  placed  upon  the  table,  one  for  each  guest, 
on  purpose  to  lay  the  knives  and  forks  upon  when  not  imme- 
diately requisite.     It  is  not  very  uncommon.  Dr.  Clarke  says 


UNIVERSAL   TRAVELLER.  369 

I     I  i'  ■■ —      -  -     -  — 

MANNERS  ANQ  CUSTOMS. 

for  the  Russian  servants,  before  your  eyes,  to  spit  upon  the 
plates,  and  wipe  them  with  a  dirty  napkin,  or  a  more  filthy 
towel.  Another  abominable  usage  is  common  in  the  houses 
of  all  the  princes  and  all  the  nobles  of  the  empire.  The  ser- 
vant men  are  so  numerous,  that  very  often  there  is  one  for 
each  guest,  besides  those  who  serve  up  the  dishes :  so  that 
not  unfrequently  we  see  tens,  and  even  twenties  of  them 
arranged  in  rows  behind  the  chairs  of  the  company,  each  with 
a  plate  under  his  left  arm,  or  rather  in  his  arm-pit,  which  is 
by  this  means  warmed  and  perfumed  by  the  time  the  guest  he 
waits  upon  is  ready  to  receive  it. 

There  are  but  few  beds  in  the  whole  Russian  empire  which 
an  Englishman,  aware  of  their  condition,  would  venture  to 
approach.  It  is  astonishing  that  the  Russians  should  not  pay 
more  attention  to  fine  bed-rooms  and  elegant  beds,  for  daily 
convenience,  and  not  for  mere  exhibition,  especially  as  most 
of  the  ^articles  requisite  for  the  purpose  are  low-priced  in  their 
country.  Few  rooms,  altogether  fitted  up  and  furnished  like 
bed-rooms,  as  in  Britain,  are  to  be  found  in  the  northern  em- 
pire. They  form  a  luxury  which  the  Russian  knows  nothing 
of,  except  what  he  has  learned  in  foreign  countries,  heard  of 
from  travellers,  or  read  of  in  books.  The  Russians  assuredly 
have  plenty  of  spalvi,  or  bed-rooms  as  they  call  them,  which 
are  open  to  the  whole  house,  and  often  form  one  of  a  suite  of 
rooms  in  small  houses.  In  the  palaces  and  mansions  of  the 
nobles,  there  are  elegant  rooms,  containing  state  beds,  in  which 
no  person  reposes.  "  They  are  generally  left  open,  and  as  they 
make  part  of  a  suite  of  chambers,  may  be  reckoned  part  of  a 
nobleman's  parade  or  show  rooms. 

The  Russian  nobility,  when  they  attend  the  festivals  of  their 
neighbors,  generally,  carry  their  beds  with  them.  Hence  on 
theday  before  a  fete,  numerous  carriages,  filled  with  nobles, 
arrive  from  time  to  time,  some  of  them  with  large  bags  filled 
with  beds  and  pillows.  After  supper,  and  the  conclusion  of 
the  amusement  of  the  day,  cards,  &c.,  a  scene  of  bustle  and 
confusion  fo]low\s,  which  seems  extremely  curious  and  ridicu- 
lous. The  dining-room,  the  drawing-room,  the  hall  and  the 
whole  suite  of  apartments,  in  which  the  evening  has  been  pass- 
ed, are  converted  into  bed- rooms.  Dozens  of  small  painted 
and  unpainted  bedsteads,  each  for  a  single  person,  and  of  the 
value  of  five  roubles,  are  speedily  transported  into  the  cham- 
bers, and  arranged  along  the  sides  of  the  rooms,  which  soon 
resemble  a  barrack,  or'lhe  wards  of  an  hospital.  Scores  of 
servants  belonging  to  the  host,  and  to  the  visiters,  are  seen  run- 
ning backwards  and  forwards,  with  beds  and  mattresses,  pil- 
lows and  linen,  shoobs  and  baggage.  Many  of  these  beds  have 
no  inviting  appearance.  Others  of  the  guests,  who  have  been 
less  provident  than  their  neighbors,  are  accommodated  with 
beds  from  the  master  of  the  house,  and  when  a  scarcity  occurs, 
the  beds  of  the  servants  are  put  in  requisition.  It  also  happens 
frequently  that  the  number  of  bedsteads  is  insufficient,  but  this 


370  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

HUS3IA. 

is  of  little  moment.  In  this  case,  the  beds  are  arranged  upon 
the  floor,  upon  chairs,  and  npon  tlie  flat  parts  of  some  of  the 
stoves.  Besides,  all  the  sofas  and  divans  are  at  once  convert- 
ed into  )ilaces  of  repose  iov  the  niijht.  Dr.  Lyall  lias  drawn  a 
description  of  such  a  scene  at  a  ijfjand  fete  given  by  a  noble- 
man. He  made  a  visit  to  one  of  the  houses  adjoining;  to  the 
proprietor's  mansion,  in  whicli  a  number  of  his  ac(piaintances 
were  Jodiijed.  He  founti  the  liall  and  the  dra\vint!;-ioom  liter- 
ally a  barrack.  Sofas,  divans,  and  chairs  put  to?rether,  cover- 
ed with  beds,  and  their  fati<i;iied  or  lax;y  tenants,  formed  the 
scen(>ry  of  the  first  apartment;  in  the  latter  was  arranged  a 
sleepinrr  place  upon  the  first  floor,  for  half  a  dozen  noblemen, 
with  beds,  pillows,  shoobs,  &c.  The  possessors  of  this  den, 
wra|)ped  up  in  splendid  silk  night-gowns,  some  lying  down, 
some  sitting  up  in  bed,  some  drinking  coffee  and  tea,  and 
smoking  tobacco,  amidst  mephitic  air,  and  surriumded  l)y 
chamber  utensils,  and  other  disagreeable  trumpery,  formed  a 
curious  motley  association. 

Anothrr  and  a  ctirimm  vicht  scfiip  takes  place  in  the  palaces 
of  the  nobles  of  Petersl)urgh  and  Moscow,  as  well  as  in  those 
in  the  interior  of  the  empire.  The  enormous  number  of  ser- 
vants, often  K'lO  or  500  attached  to  the  establishment  of  the 
grandees,  has  excited  the  surprise  of  ail  Eurojiean  travellers; 
but  few  of  them,  perhaps,  inquired,  or  had  an  opportunity  of 
knowing  how  these  servants  are  disposed  of  when  the  evening 
parties  hi-(>ak  up.  .Many  of  them  retire  to  tlu^  wings  and  the 
other  numeious  edifices,  whicii  are  always  tlie  concomitants 
of  a  princely  fortune  in  this  country  ;  and  tho.se  who  are  in- 
mates of  the  master's  dwelling,  occupy  the  lower  story  and  the 
back  rof)ms,  and  there  they  sU'ej) ;  the  rest  make  their  beds 
upon  the  floors  of  the  ante-chambers,  and  even  at  times,  within 
the  rooms.  Thus  the  whole  range  of  the  back  apartments  of 
a  large  house  or  palace  is  every  night  covered  with  beds  laid 
upon  the  floor,  and  a  crowd  of  himian  bein-js  huddled  together, 
under  sheep-skins,  shmtha.  great-coats,  bed -covers,  or  wliatever 
comes  most  readily  to  hand  ;  so  that  while  the  w.ills  uf  the 
elegant  suite  of  apartments  in  the  front  are  covered  with 
paintings,  the  floors  in  that  of  the  back  are  covered  with  hu- 
man beings  like  so  many  dogs.  The  bad  air  and  lilth  of 
such  a  den,  on  the  following  nmrning,  are  indescribable;  and 
the  numerous  kinds  of  vermin  which  have  revelhnl  the  whole 
night,  can  only  bear  allusion.  In  the  morning,  all  hands  are 
called  to  wf)ik.  to  remove  the  beds  and  other  arroidrrnietit/f, 
and  clear  the  floor  lor  a  few  hours,  when  the  same  scene  is 
repeated. 

TJie  Riis«ian  iinhles  do  not  drink  ardent  spirits,  rndkf,  in  the 
morning,  as  has  been  rejiresented  by  some.  The  custom  in 
Russia  is  to  take  tea  and  coflee  at  a  prett)'  early  hour,  and  gen- 
erally without  either  bread  or  sweet  cake.     The  Russian  zav- 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  371 

THE  CLERGY. 

trnk,  or  breakfast,  follows,  at  ten,  eleven,  or  twelve  o'clock.  It 
commences  with  a  dram,  (schall,)  pickled  herrings,  &c. ; 
steaks,  cutlets,  a  frickassee,  fowls,  pickles,  boiled  eggs,  roasted 
potatoes,  pastrv,  wine,  ai^d  porter,  all  or  in  part,  generally 
follow  ;  but  a  ceremonious  zavtrak  is  in  fact  a  neat  and  elegant 
dinner.  The  Russian  dinners  and  suppers  generally  consist 
of  a  number  of  good  dishes,  in  which  a  mixture  of  German 
and  French  cookery  prevails,  besides  some  others,  which  are 
almost  peculiar  to  Russia,  as  stchi,  or  sour  cabbage-soup;  salt- 
ed cucumbers,  kluJcva  and  kvuss,  two  agreeable  drinks,  the 
first  made  from  the  cranberry,  and  the  latter  by  fermenting 
rye.  The  attention  paid  to  eating  and  drinking  and  cooker}^, 
is  made  a  very  serious  affair  of  in  Russia,  as  well  as  in  some 
other  countries.  Almost  all  the  higher  nobihty,  either  have 
had  foreigners  to  teach  their  slaves  "the  art  of  cookery,  or  still 
retain  them,  in  order  to  satisfy  their  delicate  and  fastidious 
palates.  Others  have  sent  their  vassals  to  the  imperial  kitch- 
en, or  to  the  tuition  of  some  distinguished  cook  in  the  capitals, 
in  order  to  be  taught  so  important  an  art.  In  some  of  the 
larger  establishments  of  the  nobles-at  Moscow,  four,  six,  eight, 
and  even  ten  men-cooks  are  employed,  besides  half  a  dozen, 
a  dozen,  or  a  score  of  assistants  in  the  kitchen;  and  it  is  rare 
that  even  the  poorest  and  the  meanest  noble  is  without  a  man- 
cook,  even  when  living  retired  in  the  country.  The  cause  of 
this  is  evident:  a  slave  being  once  taught,  costs  his  master  lit- 
tle or  no  expense  besides  his  maintenance  and  his  clothes.  In 
Russia,  women-cooks  only  get  employment  among  the  mer- 
chants, the  clerg}',  and  free  people,  and  in  foreign  families. 

The  Russians  certainly  indulge  themselves  in  eating  too  fre- 
quently and  too  abundantly;  and  the  fair  ladies  no  doubt  de- 
stroy the  beauty  of  the  female  form,  by  a  want  of  discretion 
on  this  score.  After  partaking  of  a  Russian  zavtrak  before  or 
at  mid-day,  a  Briton  is  truly  astonished  at  seeing  the  natives, 
even  fair  ladies,  sitting  down  to  dinner  at  three  or  four  o'clock, 
with  as  voracious  appetites  as  if  they  had  been  keeping  lent, — 
if  one  may  judge  by  the  number  of  dishes  which  they  share, 
and  by  the  quantity  of  each  with  which  they  provide  them- 
selves. No  wonder  that  most  of  the  fair  sex  of  the  north  re- 
mind us  of  the  state  of  "those  who  love  their  lords."  Such 
daily  breakfasts,  dinners,  and  suppers,  besides  tea  and  coffee, 
&c.,  combined  with  inactive  lives,  and  assisted  by  the  powers 
of  Morpheus,  all  tend  to  destroy  the  symmetry  of  nature,  to 
impair  health,  and  to  engender  disease.  The  Russian  nobles, 
if  they  do  not  merit  the  appellation  of  gluttons,  may  be  said 
with  much  propriety  to  be  great  eaters. 

,  The  clergy  form,  a  second  class  of  the  Russian  ■population. 
Those  of  the  higher  order,  who  are  all  monks,  are  generally 
men  of  considerable  infornu-itio-.  A  few  of  them  are  distin- 
guished for  their  learning  in  theology,  their  abilities  as  teach- 
ers, and  their  zeal  in  the  cause  of  religion;  some  of  them  are 


372  UTS'IVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

RUSSIA. 

exemplary  in  their  lives,  and  mix  now  and  then  in  polite  so- 
ciety. The  lower  orders  of  the  clerocy,  by  far  the  most  numer- 
ous— includiiiiT  tlie  jwjtrs,  or  jiarish  priests — Avith  a  frw  cxcei^ 
tions,  know  little  beyond  the  performance  of  the  duties  of  their 
callins;.  Few  of  them  are  worthy  men;  most  of  them  are 
dissolute  and  irregular  in  their  lives,  and  freely  indulae  in 
)>i)tations  of  spirits.  The  hi<zh«'r  clerjry  are  not  pei'mitted  to 
marry;  no  parisli  priest  in  the  country,  can  be  ordained  be- 
fore he  is  married.  Mr.  Coxe  remarks,  (and  the  remark  is 
still  applicable,)  tiiat  persons  of  th(>  sacred  profession  are 
seldom  .seen  at  tli<'  tables  of  the  nol)ility  or  i^t'Mtiy.  During 
the  five  years  that  he  passed  at  St.  I'etersburt^h,  tliouiih  in  al- 
most constant  intercourse  with  them,  he  never  saw  at  their 
table  an  ecclesiastic.  "It  must  In;  allowed,"  he  adds,  "that 
the  parish  priests  are,  for  the  most  jiart,  too  low  and  ignorant 
to  be  (pialilied  for  admission  into  <,aMiteel  society,  while  the 
dienitaries,  being  a  separate  order,  aiul  restrained  by  sev- 
eral strict  regulations,  reside  chiefly  in  their  palaces,  within 
their  monasteries.  All  the  clergy  wear  long  be.xrds  and  long 
hair,  falling  over  their  shouiders,  a  square  bonnet  and  a  long 
robe. 

Mr.rchnvti^  rmiijws'p  dtp  third  rjaaa  nf  society.  Asa  class,  they 
are  singularly  devoted  to  their  alfairs,  and  to  the  accumula- 
tion and  hoarding  of  money.  Very  few  of  them  possess  any 
knowledge  b(>yond  what  is  necessary  lor  theseobj<'cts  and  the 
ceremonies  of  their  religion.  Dr.  Lyall  has  i)ortrayed  at 
length  the  degraded  character  of  th(^  Russian  merchants,  and 
explained  the  peculiarities  of  their  nefarious  system  of  com- 
merce, from  long  and  busy  observatiuns  Uwide  in  the  theatre 
of  their  actions,  the  l)argainintj  sho|)s  at  Moscow.  In  succes- 
sion, he  speaks  of  their  deceit,  in  demanding  three,  four,  six, 
or  even  ten  times  the  value  of  an  article,  or  more  than  they  ac- 
cept of;  in  the  adulteration  of  their  goorls  and  wares  ;  and  in 
tlie  use  of  false  W{>ights  and  false  measures;  and  then  con- 
cludes his  picture  in  these  strong  words  : — "  The  Russian  mer- 
chants, shopkeepers,  and  dealers,  cheat  in  the  (juantity,  in  the 
(piality,  and  inthejirice.  If  they  miss  their  aim  in  the  quantity, 
they  .succeed  in  the  quality;  and  if  they  fail  in  both,  it  will  be 
ten  to  one  but  that  tJiey  are  successful  in  the  price.  The  wary 
even  are  cheated  in  one  or  two  of  these  ways,  and  the  stranger 
is  often  duped,  l)y  stratagem,  in  all  tlie  thr<>e."  Beyond  all  rjues- 
tion,  the  Russian  merchants  have  a<lopted  the  following  max- 
im as  the  guide  of  their  actions: 


o' 


"The  proper  vnlue  of  n  lliins 
la  juofns  nirch  as  il  will  bring." 

The  Russians  are  trainf-il  up  to  villany  from  their  youth  ;  and 
the  ex|)ertness  of  boys  of  (  ight  and  ten  years  of  age  in  the  arts 
of  their  mastert,  is  incredible ;  they  arc  children  in  almost  every 


A  Riusian  Nobleman.        P.  866. 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  373 

til-  — ■ • 

PEASANTRY. 

thing,  but  men  in  deception.  And  so  widely  diffused  is  the  sys- 
tem of  imposition,  that  even  the  peasant,  who  knows  little,  be- 
yond his  field,  his  yard,  his  horse,  and  his  telega,  (a  small  cart,) 
is  a  perfect  knave  when  he  comes  to  market.  Unfortunately, 
also,  the  same  system  prevails  wherever  the  Russians  have 
conquered,  or  treacherously  acquired  new  dominions.  The 
Tartars  in  the  Crimea,  and  the  Georgians  at  Teflis,  have  com- 
pletely adopted  the  Russian  mode  of  commerce,  with  all  its 
detestable  details. 

The  fourth  and  last  class  of  the  subjects  of  Russia  is  composed 
of  the  peasants.     These,  with  few  exceptions,  are  all  slaves. 
They  form  two  classes — peasants  of  the  crown,  and  peasants 
belonging  to  individuals.     The  late  emperor,  Alexander,  did 
inuch  to  lessen  the  evils  of  the  former,  and  to  render  their  man- 
umission, as  well  as  that  of  the  latter  class,  more  easily  practi- 
cable.    Yet  the  condition  of  both  is  still  degrading  and  deplor- 
able. It  is  calculated  that  about  a  sixth  part  of  the  peasantry  be- 
long to  the  crown;  these  are  immediately  under  the  jurisdic- 
tion of  imperial  officers:  many  have  been  enfrancliised,  and 
have  become  burghers.     Peasants  belonging  to  individuals 
are  their  private  property,  as  much  as  the  cattle  on  their  es- 
tates.    The  rent  paid  by  the  crown  peasants  is  fixed;  that 
paid  by  private  peasants  is  regulated  by  their  means  of  getting 
money,  or  in  other  words,  is  a  tax  on  their  industry.     There 
is  no  law  to  restrain  the  demands  of  the  master ;  their  time 
and  their  labor  are  absolutely  at  his  command.     Some  of  the 
nobility  send  their  slaves  to  St.  Petersbur^h  or  Moscow,  to  be 
instructed  in  various  trades  ;  and  then,  either  employ  them  on 
■their  own  estates,  let  them  for  hire,  sell  to  them  permission  to 
exercise  their  trade,  or  dispose  of  them  at  an  advance  price. 
Some  of  the  Russian  nobles  have  70,000  or  100,000  peasants  ; 
from  this  it  may  well  be  supposed  that  their  wealth  is  immense, 
in  whatever  manner  the  labor  of  these  slaves  is  employed. 
Women  and  children,  as  well  as  men,  must  labor  for  their  mas- 
ter, for  such  pay  as  his  caprice  or  his  wants  may  dispose  or 
enable  him  to  give.     Tithes  are  besides  demanded  of  what- 
ever may  remain  in  their  hands.     As  soon  as  the  child  reaches 
the  age  of  ten,  its  labor  is  required ;  and  when  he  reaches  fif- 
teen, each  male  slave  is  obliged  by  law  to  labor  three  days  in 
each  week  for  his  master.     If  the  proprietor  chooses  to  employ 
him  the  other  days,  he  may ;  as  for  example,  in  a  manufactory  ; 
in  this  case,  however,  he  finds  him  in  food  and  clothing.     In 
general,  the  master,  instead  of  exacting  the  labor  of  his  slave 
for  the  stated  portion  of  the  week,  agrees  to  receive  a  rent, 
and  he  is  bound  to  furnish  him  with  a  house  and  a  certain  por- 
tion of  land ;  the  aged  and  infirm  are  provided  with  food,  rai- 
sment,  and  lodging  at  his  expense. 

The  master  has  the  power  of  correcting  his  slaves  by  blows, 
or  confinement ;  but  the  law — which,  however,  is  easily  eva- 
tded— forbids  the  exercise  of  any  great  cruelty.     No  slave  can 
32 


S74  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

RUSSIA. 

quit  his  village,  or  if  he  be  a  domestic  slave,  his  master's  fam- 
ily, without  a  passport.  Imprisonment  with  hard  labor  is  the 
punishment  for  runaway  slaves.  A  master  may  send  his  slave 
to  the  public  workhouse,  or  into  the  army ;  in  the  latter  case 
he  sends  one  man  less  the  next  Uny.  No  slave  can  be  sold 
out  of  Russia,  nor  in  it,  except  to  a  noble  ;  but  this  law  is  fre- 
quenti}'  eluded.  A  slave  may  obtain  his  liberty  l)y  manumis- 
sion, (this  is  frequently  granted  to  favorite  domestic  slaves  on 
the  death  of  their  master,)  by  purchase,  or  by  serving  in  the 
army  or  nav)\ 

The  political  state  of  the  Russian  peasantry,  degrading  and 
injm-ious  as  it  is  to  the  highest  energies  and  best  feelings  of 
our  nature,  is  not,  however,  much  aggravated  by  their  condition 
in  other  respects.  If  any  thing  could  atone  for  personal  and 
political  slavery,  it  might  be  justly  maintained,  that  a  large 
class  of  the  peasantry  of  Ireland,  from  the  total  absence  of  do- 
mestic comfort  among  them,  are  in  a  more  miserable  state 
than  the  slaves  of  Russia.  Their  houses,  formed  of  whole 
trees,  and  usually  constructed  solely  with  the  assistance  of  the 
hatchet,  are  in  tolt^rable  repair,  and  well  ada])ted  to  their 
habits.  They  sometimes,  but  not  often,  consist  of  two  stories  : 
the  lower  forms  a  storeroom  ;  in  the  upper  one  they  dwell.  A 
kind  of  ladder  on  the  outside  serves  as  a  staircase.  There  is 
generally  but  one  room  in  the  habitable  part.  Their  furniture 
seldom  comprises  more  tiian  a  wooden  table,  and  lienches 
fastened  to  the  sides  of  the  room,  wooden  platters,  bowls,  and 
spoons,  and  perhaps  a  large  earthen  pan  to  cook  their  victuals 
in.  Their  diet  is  substantial  ;  black  rye-bread,  eggs,  salt  lish, 
muslnooms,  and  bacon;  a  hotch-potch  of  salt  or  fresh  meat, 
gloats,  and  rye-flour,  seasoned  with  onions  and  garlic,  con- 
stitutes their  favorite  dish.  Of  this  kind  of  food,  they  obtain 
l)lenty  at  a  cheap  rate.  Their  clothing,  however,  is  dear.  To 
clothe  a  Russian  jieasant  or  soldier,  costs  nearly  three  times 
as  much  as  in  England  ;  but  tiieir  clothing  is  strong,  and  being 
made  loose  and  wide,  lasts  longer.  It  is  rare  to  see  a  Russian 
in  rags.  In  general,  the  Russian  peasants  are  a  large,  coarse, 
hardy  race,  of  gi'eat  bodily  strength,  rarely  below  the  middle 
stature,  strong-limbed,  commonly  lean,  but  well  built.  Their 
mouth  and  eyes  are  snuill,  tln-ir  lips  thin,  teeth  even  and 
beautiful ;  their  hair  brown,  reddish,  or  flaxen ;  their  beard 
strong  and  bushy.  Their  organs  of  taste,  smell,  sight,  and  hear- 
ing, are  acute,  esj)ecially  the  latter  two.  They  are  brisk  and 
active,  and  by  no  means  wantuig  in  industry  wImmi  they  have 
an  interest  in  exertion.  The  complexion  of  the  female  ])eas- 
antry  is  brunette  ;  their  skin  in  general  delicate.  Some  of  them, 
us  well  as  of  the  other  classes,  are  extremely  handsome.  Fe- 
males of  all  ranks  soon  attain  maturity,  but  fall  oH  and  look 
old  at  a  very  early  peiiod  of  life.  The  fre<inent  use  of  the  hot 
bath  is  supposed  to  occasion  this  jjremature  decay  among  all 
clas.ses  ;  while  among  the  higher  ranks,  the  odious  practice  of 
'(Kiiiiting  the  face,  and  among  the  peasantry,  hard  work,  their 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  375 

LANGUAGE — SOIL. 


peculiar  food,  and  inattention  to  their  persons,  contribute  to 
the  same  effect.* 

The  Sclavo7iic  is  the  foundation  of  the  Russia)!  hms^tiage  ;  it 
differs  essentially  from  the  Celtic,  the  Gothic,  and  the  Latin, 
the  origin  and  the  materials  of  all  the  other  languages  of  Eu- 
rope :  there  are  thirty-five  characters  in  the  alphabet,  many 
of  which  express  sounds  extremely  difficult,  from  the  com- 
bination of  consonants,  to  be  pronounced  by  a  foreigner. 
The  Russian  language  is  little  known  to  the  rest  of  Europe ; 
nor  has  it  till  lately  been  much  cultivated  in  Russia  itself,  in 
consequence  of  the  German  prevailing  so  generally  among 
the  higher  and  literary  classes.  Latterly,  however,  Russian 
literature  has  begun  to  flourish,  and  it  has  exhibited  proofs 
of  richness  and  sublimity  in  its  poetry.  It  would  be  uninter- 
esting and  almost  endless  to  enumerate  the  languages  of  the 
numerous  tribes  scattered  through  the  Russian  empire:  of 
the  three  great  and  distinct  barbaric  nations  in  Asiatic  Rus- 
sia, the  Tartars,  Mongols,  and  Tunguses,  the  languages  are 
radically  different. 

The  nature  of  the  soil  in  the  vicinity  of  St.  Petershurgh  is  so 
very  poor  and  unproductive,  that  this  circumstance,  joined  to 
the  severity  of  the  climate,  must  always  render  this  capital  de- 
pendant, for  its  supply  of  provisions  of  all  descriptions,  on  dis- 
tant parts  of  the  empire,  to  a  greater  degree  than  any  other 
capitalof  Europe; the  regular  demand,  however,  here,  asevery- 
vi'here  else,  is  found  to  create  and  secure  a  regular  supply. 
The  countries  bordering  on  the  Volga  chiefly  furnish  wheat 
and  rye.  The  poorer  classes  eat  a  species  of  rye-bread  call- 
ed black  bread,  made  from  the  meal  unbolted.  The  disorder 
which  so  frequently  occurs  in  France  from  eating  bread  made 
of  damaged  rye,  seems  not  to  be  known  in  Russia.  Barley- 
meal  is  also  used  for  bread.  Of  wheat,  rye,  and  barley,  up- 
wards of  4,800,000  poods  are  annually  consumed.  In  order 
to  afford  the  poorer  classes  flour  at  a  moderate  price,  Cathe- 
rine II.  erected  a  large  flour  magazine,  from  which  they  are 
supplied  in  a  time  of  scarcity.  St.  Petersburgh  is  well  suppli- 
ed with  water,  from  the  Neva  and  the  canals ;  but  pipes  for 
conducting  it  being  unknown,  it  is  brought  to  the  houses  in 
casks  fixed  on  carts.  It  is  calculated,  that  (except  during  the 
fast  of  the  Greek  Church)  more  meat  is  consumed  in  this  city 
than  in  any  city  of  Europe.  The  supplies  are  brought  from  a 
great  distance,  principally  from  the  Ukraine;  but  the  largest 
and  best  flavored  veal  comes  from  the  vicinity  of  Archangel.  All 
kinds  of  meat,  poultry,  &c.  are  brought  frozen  in  winter  ;  and 
the  quality,  as  well  as  the  quantity  and  price,  is  regulated  by 
the  weather  and  hardness  or  softness  of  the  sledge  roads.  The 
market  held  upon  the  Neva  is  thus  described  by  Mr.  Coxe 

*  New  Edinburgh  Encyclopedia. 


376  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

lUPSIA. 


'"At  tho  conclusion  of  the  loner  fast,  which  closes  on  the  14tfi 
of  December.  (O.  S.)  the  I'lissians  hi)'  in  their  provisions  for 
the  remainiiii,' j>;irt  o(  the  winter.  P'or  this  piir[)<)se,  an  annual 
market,  which  lasts  three  clays,  is  held  upon  the  river,  near  the 
fortress.  A  lonpj  street,  above  a  mile  in  length,  was  Imed  on 
each  side  with  an  iniinense  store  of  provisions,  sufiicieiit  for 
the  supply  of  tliis  capital  for  the  three  following  months. 
Many  thousand  raw  carcasses  of  oxen,  sheep,  hogs,  pigs,  to- 
gether with  fjeese,  fowls,  and  every  species  of  frozen  food 
were  exposed  to  sale.  The  larger  fjiiadrupeds  were  grouped 
in  various  circles,  upright,  their  liiiid  legs  lixed  in  the  snow, 
witli  their  heads  and  fore  legs  turned  to  each  other;  these 
towered  above  the  rest,  and  occupied  the  hindermost  row. 
Next  to  them  succeeded  a  regular  series  of  animals,  descend- 
ing gradually  to  the  smallest,  intermixed  \\ith  jioultry  and 
game,  hanging  in  festoons,  and  garnished  with  heaps  of  but- 
ter, fish,  and  eggs.  1  soon  perceived,  from  the  profusion  of 
partridges,  pheasants,  moorfowls.  and  cocks  of  the  wood,  that 
there  were  no  laws  in  this  country  which  prohibited  the  selling 
of  game.  I  observed  also,  tlie  truth  of  which  has  been  fre- 
quently asserted,  that  many  of  the  birds,  as  well  as  several 
animals,  in  these  northern  regions,  become  white  in  winter, 
many  hundred  black  cocks  being  changed  to  that  color;  iiud 
some  which  had  been  taken  lirfore  they  had  completed  their 
metamorphosis,  exhibited  a  mixture  of  black  and  white  plu- 
mages* The  most  distant  quarters  contril.uted  to  supply  this 
vast  store  of  provisions;  and  the  finest  veal  had  been  sent  by 
land  carriage  as  far  as  from  Archangel,  vhich  is  situated  at 
the  distance  of  830  miles  from  St.  Petei^burgh;  yet  every 
species  of  food  is  surprisingly  cheap.  In  order  to  render 
this  froztMi  food  fit  for  dressing,  it  is  first  thawed  in  cold 
water.  Frozen  meat,  however,  certainly  looses  much  of  its 
flavor,  and  accordingly,  the  tables  of  persons  of  condition, 
and  those  of  the  English  merchants,  are  sujiplied  with  fresh 
killed  meat."* 

Runsia  is  cilebrnted  for  its  interval  narisratiov.  Of  this,  the 
grandest  branch  is  that  which  brings  St.  Petersburgh  the  pro- 
ducf^  of  the  southern  provinces,  by  means  of  the  canals  of  La- 
doga and  V'y.shnt'i  Voloshok,  which  unite  the  P.allic  and  the 
Caspian:  gocids  are  thus  conveyed  to  the  capital  through  a 
tract  of  11:51  miles,  without  once  landing  them.  This  naviga- 
tion begins  at  St.  Petersburgh,  by  the  Neva,  which  issues  from 
lake  Ladoga.  P.y  a  canal  uniting  the  Vtdchof,  which  falls  into 
the  Volga,  the  comnuinication  bitwecii  the  I'altic  and  the  Cas- 
pian is  eflected.  The  canals  of  Ladoga  and  Vyshnei  Voloshok 
likewise  enable  St.  Petersburgh  to  receive  the  produce  of  Chi- 
na and  Siberia  almost  entirely  by  inland  navigation.  The 
distance  from  St.  Petersburgh  to  the  frontiers  of  China,  is  from 

♦  Coxu'b  Travels  in  Poland,  Russia,  &c. 


A  Droski.         P.  sn. 


W'iiilcr  Amusrmnif. 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  377 

TRAVELLING. 


1600  to  1700  leagues  ;  and  it  requires  three  years  to  accom- 
plish it,  the  rivers  being  navigable  only  during  a  short  period 
of  the  year.  The  route  by  the  Volga  to  the  capital,  has  been 
already  described.  This  river  is  descended  as  far  as  the 
Kama,  which  is  ascended  to  the  mouth  of  one  of  the  streams 
that  flow  from  the  Uraiian  mountains.  At  the  foot  of  these, 
the  merchandise  is  unloaded  and  transported  over  land,  to  be 
embarked  on  one  of  the  streams  that  flovi?  from  the  eastern 
side  of  the  mountains,  and  communicate  with  the  Tobol.  At 
Tobolsk,  the  Irtish  is  entered,  by  means  of  which,  the  Oby, 
some  other  streams,  and  a  short  portage,  the  lake  Baikal  is 
reached  ;  and  finally,  the  Selinga,  and  Mongolia,  which  com- 
municate with  China.  The  communication  between  St.  Pe- 
tersburgh  and  Siberia,  is,  of  course,  carried  on  by  the  same 
route.  The  chief  articles  for  the  Chinese  market  are  furs : 
the  returns  are  teas,  silks,  &c.  From  Siberia,  St.  Petersburgh 
receives  large  quantities  of  iron  and  hardware  ;  in  return  for 
which  she  sends  principally  EngUsh  goods  and  colonial  pro- 
duce. The  trade  of  the  interior  would  be  much  more  exten- 
sive and  flourishing  than  it  actually  is,  were  it  not  by  law  se- 
cured to  the  natives  ;  but  this  restriction  is  beginning  to  be 
relaxed. 

In  the  winter  season  the  snow  in  most  parts  of  Russia  admits 
of  a  pleasant  and  expeditious  mode  of  travelling  by  means  of 
sledges.  But  in  other  parts  of  the  year,  several  other  vehicles 
are  used.  One  is  the  droski,  which  is  a  carriage,  the  body  of 
which  is  scarcely  two  feet  from  the  ground.  In  his  journey  be- 
tween Petersburgh  and  Moscow,  Dr.  Clarke  made  use  of  a 
German  batarde,  which  he  regards  as  best  adapted  for  a  jour- 
ney, in  which  the  traveller  passes  from  one  cUmate  to  another 
where  of  course  sledges  cannot  be  used.  It  is  in  reality  an 
English  chariot,  with  a  dor  vieuse  behind;  instead  of  a  window, 
there  is  a  large  lamp.  "  Thus  provided,"  observes  Dr.  Clarke, 
"  a  person  may  travel  night  and  day,  fearless  of  want  of  ac- 
commodation, or  of  houses  of  repose.  His  carriage  is  his 
home,  which  accompanies  him  everywhere;  and  if  he  choose 
to  halt,  or  accidents  oblige  him  to  stop  in  the  midst  of  a  forest 
or  a  desert,  he  may  sleep,  read,  write,  eat,  drink,  or  amuse 
himself  with  any  portable  musical  instrument,  careless  of  the 
frost  of  the  north,  or  the  dews,  the  moschetoes,  and  vermin  of 
the  south.  Over  snowy  regions,  he  places  his  house  upon  a 
sledge,  and,  when  the  snow  melts,  upon  its  wheels;  being  al- 
ways careful,  where  wheels  are  used  for  long  journeys  through 
hot  countries,  to  soak  them  in  water  whenever  he  stops  for 
the  night."*  A  more  characteristic  and  national  vehicle  is  the 
kibitka,  described  by  Sir  Robert  Ker  Porter  as  "nothing more 
than  a  large  wooden  cradle."  Mr.  Coxe  says  that  it  is  the 
old  Scythian  wagon.    It  holds  two  persons  abreast;  the  dri- 

♦  Clarke's  Travels. 
32* 


378  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

RUSSIA. 

ver  sits  at  the  further  end,  near  the  horse's  tail;  the  hinder 
part  is  covered  with  a  tilt,  open  in  front,  made  of  hitiis,  and 
covered-with  birch,  or  other  hark.  The  whole  machine  does 
not  contain  a  single  piece  of  iron,  and  there  are  no  springs: 
the  body  of  the  caniage  is  fastened  to  the  wheels  by  woooen 
pins,  ropes,  and  sticks.  In  oWer  to  prevent  the  inconvenience 
that  would  arise  from  the  joltintr  in  such  roads  as  those  of 
Russia,  a  feather  bed  is  usually  placed  at  the  bottom.  With 
this  precaution,  a  kibitka  is  a  snu;j;  and  comfortable  vehicle. 
In  some  parts  of  Tartary,  the  to|)  is  taken  off  at  ni^jht,  and 
serves  as  a  tent;  hence  the  Russians  call  the  tents  of  the  Cal- 
mucks  kibilkit. 

An  English  traveller,  who  had  visited  the  most  remote  and 
desolate  parts  of  the  Scotch  IIi!2;hlands,  even  half  a  century 
ago,  would  be  ill  prepared  to  encounter  the  inconveniences, 
discomforts,  and  privations  to  which  he  would  be  exposed  in 
journeying  from  one  capital  of  Russia  to  the  other,  if  he  did 
not  carry  along  with  him  the  means  of  pieventing  or  remedy- 
ing them.  The  representations  of  Dr.  Clarke  with  regard  to 
the  condition  of  Russia,  must  be  taken  with  much  caution 
and  qualification;  yet,  he  speaks  but  the  language  of  all  other 
travellers  in  this  comitry,  when  he  advises  that  nothing  should 
be  expected  from  inns  or  houses  of  entertainment,  not  even 
clean  straw  for  a  bed.  He  enumerates  the  following  articles 
as  forming  an  indispensable  portion  of  the  traveller's  baggage : 
— a  pewter  tea-pot ;  a  kettle  ;  a  sauce-pan,  the  top  of  which 
may  be  used  as  a  dish  ;  tea,  sugar,  and  a  large  cheese  ;  loaves 
of  bread  made  into  rusks;  if  in  the  winter,  frozen  meat;  wine 
in  the  cold  districts,  vinegar  in  the  hot.  Thus  prepared,  he 
may  safely  encounter  this  long  journey. 

The  Iii(ftsia)i.i  use  the  halh  as  a  meavs  nf  prescrviiis^  clr/nili- 
ness  and  hralth,  as  a  luxury,  and  as  an  amusement.  Baths 
are  to  be  found  in  any  part  of  the  empire,  and  are  among  the 
|)laces  of  resort  lor  the  lower  orders.  The  following  accoimt 
fnf  their  vapor-ballis  was  comnnuiicated  to  Mr.  Coxi'  by  an 
♦  English  gentleman  at  St.  Peiersburgh,  who  was  ordered  to 
bathe  for  his  health.  "  The  bathing-room  was  small  and  low, 
and  contained  a  heap  of  large  stones  piled  over  a  lire,  and 
two  broad  benches,  one  near  the  ground,  and  the  other  near 
the  ceiling.  Small  buckets  of  water  being  occasionally  thrown 
upon  the  lieated  stones,  filled  the  room  with  a  hot  and  sulfo- 
cating  vapor,  whicli  fioni  its  tendency  to  ascend,  rendered 
the  upper  part  much  hotter  than  tht-  lower.  Having  takiMi  of? 
my  clothes,  1  laid  myself  down  upotj  the  highest  bench,  while 
the  bathing  woman  was  preparing  tubs  of  hot  and  cold  water, 
and  continued  to  increase  the  vapor  in  the  manner  above 
mentioned.  Having  di)iped  a  branch  of  twigs  into  the  hot 
water,  she  repeatedly  sprinkled,  ami  then  rubbed  with  it  my 
whole  body.  In  alxtut  half  an  hour,  I  removed  to  the  lower 
bench,  which  I  found  much  cooler,  where  the  bathing  woman 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  879 


AMUSEMENTS. 


lathered  me  from  head  to  foot  with  soap,  scrubbed  me  with 
flannel  for  the  space  of  ten  minutes,  and  throwing  several 
Duckets  of  warm  water  over  me,  till  the  soap  was  entirely- 
washed  otf,  she  then  dried  me  with  napkins.  As  I  put  on  my 
clothes  in  a  room  without  a  fire,  I  had  an  opportunity  of  re- 
marking, that  the  cold  air  had  little  effect  on  my  body,  though 
in  so  heated  a  state :  for  while  I  was  dressing,  I  felt  a  glow  of 
warmth  which  continued  during  the  whole  night.  This  cir- 
cumstance convinced  me,  that  when  the  natives  rush  from  the 
vapor-baths  into  the  river,  or  even  roll  in  the  snow,  their  sen- 
sations are  in  no  respect  disagreeable,  nor  the  effects  in  any 
deeree  unwholesome."* 

The  other  most  characteristic  and  favorite  amusements  in 
St.  Petersburgh,  are,  singing,  dancing,  swinging,  and  descend- 
ing the  ice-hills.  All  the  Russians  are  fond  of  music,  and  they 
possess  many  airs  of  exquisite  simplicity  and  pathos;  not  in- 
ferior iri  these  respects  to  the  old  national  airs  of  Scotland  or 
Ireland,  though  peculiar,  and  with  a  very  marked  character. 
In  every  town  and  village,  these  popular  ditties  are  sung  by 
the  lower  classes:  and  the  higher  ranks  in  St.  Petersburgh 
make  it  a  customary  recreation,  to  take  with  them  in  their 
water  parties,  a  band  of  expert  singers,  and  often  have  them 
at  their  tables  at  home,  to  sing  the  popular  Russian  ballads. 
The  old  popular  ballads  are  also  sometimes  sung  to  the  Go- 
lubetz,  a  favorite  national  dance.  This,  like  all  dances  of  rude 
people,  is  pantomimic :  the  modest  solicitations  of  the  lover, 
and  the  affected  coyness  of  the  fair  one,  are  exhibited  by  a 
variety  of  gestures  and  movements.  The  swing  is  the  amuse- 
ment of  all  ranks  and  conditions,  and  Easter  witnesses  it  in 
its  greatest  perfection,  swings  being  then  set  up  in  all  the  pub- 
lic "squares.  Another  kind  of  holyday  diversion,  is  the  ice- 
hills.  A  scaffold  about  thirty  feet  high,  is  erected  on  the  Neva : 
on  one  side  of  it  are  steps,  or  a  ladder,  to  ascend  to  the  plat- 
form on  the  top;  on  the  opposite  side,  a  steep  inclined  plane, 
about  four  yards  broad,  and  thirty  long,  descends  to  the  river; 
this  is  supported  by  strong  poles,  and  its  sides  are  protected 
by  a  parapet  of  flanks.  Large  square  blocks  of  ice,  about 
four  inches  thick,  are  laid  upon  the  inclined  plane,  close  to 
one  another,  and  smoothed  with  the  axe  ;  they  are  then  con- 
solidated by  water  thrown  over  them.  The  snow  is  cleared 
away  at  the  bottom  of  the  plane  for  the  length  of  two  hundred 
yards  and  the  breadth  of  four;  and  the  sides  of  this  course,  as 
well  as  those  of  the  scaffolding,  are  ornamented  and  protected 
with  firs  and  pines.  Each  person,  provided  with  a  little  low 
sledge,  something  like  a  butcher's  tray,  mounts  the  ladder, 
and" glides  with  inconceivable  rapidity  down  the  inclined 
plane,  poising  his  sledge  as  he  goes  down.  The  momentum 
thus  acquired,  carries  him  to  a  second  hill,  at  the  foot  of  which, 
he  alights,  mounts  again,  and  in  the  same  manner  glides  down 

*  Coxe's  Travels. 


380  UNIVERSAL  TRAVFXLER. 

RL'SSIA. 

the  other  inclin(Hl  plane  of  ice.  The  boys  also  amuse  them- 
selves in  skating  down  these  liills.  Summer-hills,  constructed 
in  imitation  of  the  ice-hills,  also  afford  a  favorite  amusement 
to  the  inhabitants  of  St.  Petersburgh,  especially  during  their 
carnivals.  Th(?se  consist  of  a  scaffold  between  Ihirt}'  or  forty 
feet  high.  With  an  inclined  plane  in  front,  flowers  and  boughs 
of  trees  sheltering  the  person  in  his  descent,  a  small,  narrow 
cart  on  four  wheels  is  used  instead  of  the  sledge  ;  below,  there 
is  a  level  stage  of  some  hundred  feet  in  length,  along  which 
he  is  carried  by  the  impulse  of  his  descent.  The  winter  is  the 
season  when  the  most  characteristic  amusements  of  the  Rus- 
sians may  be  witnessed,  especially  on  the  Neva.  "  Scarcely 
a  day  passed,"  says  Mr.  Coxe,  "  that  I  did  not  take  my  morn- 
ing walk,  or  drive  in  a  sledge  on  that  river.  Many  carriages 
and  sledges,  and  numberless  foot  passengers  perpetually  cross- 
ing it,  alibrd  a  constant  succession  of  moving  objects,  and  the 
ice  is  also  covered  with  diflerent  groups  of  peo|)le,  dispersed  or 
gathered  together,  and  variously  employed  as  their  fancy  leads 
them.  In  one  part,  there  are  several  long  areas  railed  off  for 
the  purpose  of  skating;  a  little  further  is  an  enclosure,  where- 
in a  nobleman  is  training  his  horses,  and  teaching  them  the 
various  evolutions  of  the  minage.  In  another  part,  the  crowd 
are  spectators  of  what  is  called  a  sledge-race.  The  coiwse  is 
an  oblong  space  about  the  length  of  a  mile,  and  sufficiently 
broad  to  turn  the  carriage.  It  can  hardly  be  denominated  a 
race,  for  there  is  only  a  single  sledge,  drawn  by  two  horses  ; 
and  the  whole  art  of  the  driver  consists  in  making  the  shaft 
horse  trot  as  fast  as  he  can,  while  the  other  is  pushed  into  a 
gallop. 

There  are  three  instruments  for  whipping^  in  use  in  Russia, 
two  of  which  resemble  a  cat-o'-nine-tails,  and  the  knout.  The 
latter,  besides  being  applied  to  petty  offenders,  is  the  first  and 
preparatory  punishment  of  felons.  "One  morning,"  says  Mr. 
Coxe,  "as  I  was  casually  strolling  through  the  streets  of  St. 
Petersburgh,  near  the  market-place,  I  observed  a  large  crowd  of 
people  flocking  to  one  particular  spot.  Upon  inquiring  of  my 
Russian  servant  the  cause  of  this  concourse,  he  informed  me, 
that  the  nniltitudc  was  assembled  in  order  to  see  a  felon,  who 
had  been  convicted  of  murder,  receive  the  knout.  Although 
I  naturally  shuddered  at  the  very  idea  of  being  a  spectator  of 
the  agonies  of  a  fellow  creature,  yet  my  curiosity  overcame 
my  fft'lings.  With  the  assistance  of  my  servant,  1  penetrated 
through  the  crowd,  and  ascended  the  roof  of  a  wooden  house, 
of  one  story,  from  whence  I  had  a  distinct  view  of  the  dreadful 
operation,  which  was  already  begun.  The  executioner  held  in 
his  hand  the  knout.  This  instrument  is  a  thong  about  the 
thickness  of  a  crown  piece,  and  about  three  fourths  of  an  inch 
broad,  and  rendered  extremely  hanl  by  a  peculiar  kind  of  pre- 
paration; it  is  tied  to  a  thick  platted  whip,  which  is  connected 
by  means  of  an  iron  ring  with  a  small  picceof  leather,  that  acts 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  381 

WEDDINGS — FUNERALS. 

like  a  spring,  and  is  fastened  to  a  short  wooden  handle.  The 
executioner,  before  every  stroke,  receded  a  few  paces,  and 
at  the  same  time  drew  back  the  hand  which  held  the  knout; 
then,  bounding  forward,  he  applied  the  flat  end  of  the  thong, 
with  considerable  force,  to  the  naked  back  of  the  criminal,  in 
a  perpendicular  line,  reaching  six  or  seven  inches  from  the 
collar  towards  the  waist.  He  began  by  hitting  the  right  shoul- 
der, and  continued  his  strokes  parallel  to  each  other  quite  to 
the  left  shoulder ;  nor  ceased  till  he  had  inflicted  333  lashes,  the 
number  prescribed  by  the  sentence.  At  the  conclusion  of  this 
terrible  operation,  the  nostrils  of  the  criminal  were  torn  with  pin- 
cers, his  face  marked  with  a  hot  iron,  and  he  was  transported  to 
the  mines  of  Nershinsk  in  Siberia."  Mr.  Coxe  adds,  that  he 
has  been  thus  particular  in  describing  the  punishment  of  the 
knout,  because  several  authors  have  exaggerated  it;  but  sure- 
ly, it  is  scarcely  possible  to  present  a  more  frightful  picture  of 
its  nature  and  effects  than  what  he  has  himself  given;  espe- 
cially when,  in  addition  to  the  account  given  in  the  text,  we  ad- 
vert to  a  note  on  this  passage,  in  which  he  informs  us,  that  a 
skilful  executioner,  on  receiving  a  private  order,  can  de- 
spatch the  criminal  by  striking  two  or  three  blows  upon  the 
ribs.  Another  punishment  is  banishment  to  Siberia.  Often 
in  the  depth  of  a  polar  winter,  the  man  who  has  happened  to 
offend  the  emperor  or  his  informers,  is  suddenly  torn  from 
friends  and  family,  and  all  the  endearments  of  life,  and  by  an 
order  which  cannot  be  resisted,  is  hurried  to  Siberia,  where  he 
is  compelled  to  change  his  nam.e,  to  hunt  in  the  arctic  forests, 
or  delve  in  mines  with  every  species  of  malefactors.  No  ti- 
dings of  him  can  reach  home,  and  no  foundation  exists  to  hope 
for  a  change. 

In  the  capital^  vieddings  and  funerals  are  conducted  in  vari- 
ous ways,  there  being  no  prescribed  etiquette  or  ceremony. 
In  the  provinces,  among  the  lower  orders,  it  is  different. 
When  a  man  has  fixed  upon  a  young  woman  whom  he  wishes 
to  marry,  he  repairs  to  her  dwelling,  and,  addressing  himself 
to  her  mother,  or  nearest  female  relative,  uses  an  ungallant  ex- 
pression to  the  following  effect:  "Bring  forth  your  merchan- 
dise; we  have  money  to  exchange  for  it!"  The  young  wo- 
man is  then  introduced,  and  the  terms  are  settled.  More  com- 
monly, however,  the  match  is  made  up  by  the  parents,  or  friends, 
before  the  parties  have  seen  each  other.  The  bride  is  after- 
wards carefully  examined  by  a  number  of  females  ;  and  if  they 
pronounce  her  to  be  free  from  personal  defects,  and  of  a  good 
disposition,  preparations  are  made  for  the  wedding.  On  the 
day  appointed,  she  is  crowned  with  a  garland  of  wormwood; 
and  when  the  priest  has  concluded  the  ceremony,  the  clerk,  or 
sexton,  throws  a  handful  of  hops  upon  her  head,  wishing  she 
may  prove  as  fruitful  as  that  plant.  She  is  then  led  home  with 
abundance  of  coarse  ceremonies;  one  of  which  consists  in 
the  bride  presenting  her  husband  with  a  whip  of  her  own  rna- 


382  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

RrssiA. 

kinp,  in  token  of  submission,  and  lie  fails  not  to  employ  it  as 
the  instrument  of  his  authority.  But  the  barbarous  treatment 
of  wives  by  their  husbands,  which  formerly  extended  to  the 
right  of  putting;  them  to  th(>  torture,  or  even  to  death,  is  now 
{guarded  a,!,'ainst,  either  by  the  laws  of  the  country,  or  by  par- 
ticular stipulations  in  the  marriage  contract. 

The  funeral  ceremonies,  especially  in  the  distant  provinces, 
embrace  some  peculiar  customs.  Soon  after  a  person  expires, 
the  body  is  dresseil  in  its  usual  clothes,  and  laid  in  a  coffin,  with 
a  luncheon  of  bread,  a  pair  of  shoes,  and  a  few  pieces  of  mo- 
ney; and  a  priest  is  iiired  to  pray  for  the  soul,  to  purify  the 
body  with  incense,  and  to  sjirinkle  it  occasionally  with  holy 
water,  till  the  time  of  interment.  When  it  is  carried  to  the 
grave,  the  priest  produces  a  ticket,  signed  by  the  bishop  and 
another  clerrryman,  and  directed  to  St.  Nicholas  :  this  is  con- 
.sidered  as  the  passport  to  heaven,  and  is  placed  between  the 
fingers  of  the  deceased.  The  body  is  then  lowered  into  the 
grave,  and  the  attendants  return  to  the  house  whence  the  fu- 
neral proceeded,  to  drown  their  sorrow  in  intoxicating  draughts. 
The  funeral  festivities  are  continued,  with  very  little  interrup- 
tion, for  the  space  of  forty  days  ;  during  which  a  prayer  is  daily 
recited  over  the  grave  by  the  priest ;  for  although  the  doctrine 
of  purgatory  is  not  received  by  the  Russians,  they  suppose  that 
such  prayers  may  assist  tlieir  d(>parted  friend  in  his  lf)ng  jour- 
ney to  his  place  of  final  destination.  An  annual  feast  is  like- 
wise held  for  the  dead,  at  the  commencement  of  the  new  year ; 
when  every  one  attends  the  graves  of  his  departed  relations, 
and  places  some  victuals  upon  them,  which  become  tiie  perqui- 
site of  the  priests  who  ceJebrate  mass  upon  the  occasion. 


ASIA 


,  The  continent  of  Asia  now  lies  before  us— a  territory  which 
stretches  from  the  Dardanelles  to  Behring's  Strait,  about  7,583 
British  miles;  this  is  its  length.  In  breadth,  it  extends  from 
the  southern  cape  of  the  peninsula  of  Malacca  to  the  most 
northern  parts  of  Siberia,  about  5,250  miles.  In  comparison 
with  Europe,  therefore,  it  is  at  least  six  times  larger.  Its  in- 
habitants, are  more  than  double,  as  are  also  the  various  lan- 
guages, or  dialects  which  are  spoken.  Asiatic  Russia  alone 
contains  more  than  one  hundred  tribes,  differing  in  languages, 
manners,  and  religion. 

Asia,  on  many  accounts,  is  an  interesting  portion  of  the 
globe,  especially  from  the  circumstances,  that  both  sacred 
and  profane  history  have  here  placed  the  primeval  seat  of  the 
human  race,  and  concur  in  pointing  out  this  as  the  quarter 
whence  population  has  gradually  extended  over  the  rest  of  the 
earth.  Great  as  the  population  of  Asia  is  in  the  aggregate, 
numerically  it  is  far  less  than  might  be  expected  in  regions  so 
early  peopled,  and  abounding  in  every  production  which  can 
contribute  to  the  subsistence  or  comfort  of  mankind.  One 
cause  for  this  comparatively  limited  population,  and  perhaps 
the  most  operative,  is  the  feeble  and  despotic  character  of  the 
governments  which  prevail.  Such  governments  are  unfriend,- 
ly  to  virtue,  industry,  and  enterprise,  and  consequently'  to 
population.  Still,  the  four  or  five  hundred  millions  found  on 
Asiatic  territory,  are  one  of  the  best  proofs  of  the  kindness  of 
nature,  and  the  luxuriance  of  the  soil. 

r  Of  this  large  proportion  of  the  human  race,  scattered  over 
the  extensive  regions  of  Asia,  few  enjoy  the  blessings  of  free- 
dom and  civilization.  Despotism  stretches  its  ii'on  hand,  with 
little  interruption,  from  oneextremity  of  this  vast  continent  to 
the  other ;  and  arrested  by  its  benumbing  influence,  the  know- 
ledge and  arts  of  civilized  hfe'hav.e  not  expanded  into  that 
full  perfection  to  which  they  have  attained  in  regions  cheered 
by  the  more  genial  rays  of  freedom.  On  the  condition  of  so- 
ciety in  Asia,  its  rehgions,  too,  have  shed  the  most  baneful  in- 
fluence. To  these,  perhaps,  more  than  to  any  other  causes, 
are  to  be  attributed  the  retardation  of  improvement,  and  the 
debasement  of  the  human  character,  in  this  quarter  of  the 
globe.  From  that  same  source,  alas !  from  which  we  draw 
our  highest  hopes,  has  often  likewise  fiowed  the  deepest  degra- 
dation of  our  race.  During  the  last  century,  and  more  espe- 
'cially  of  late  years,  various  attempts  have  been  made,  in  dif- 
ferent parts  of  this  continent,  to  withdraw  the  inhabitants  from 
ihe  prevailing  superstitions,   by  acquainting  them  with  the 


384  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

CIRCASSIANS. 

purer  doctrines  and  institutions  of  Christianity.  Missionaries 
from  Europe  and  America  have  been  for  years,  and  are  still 
attemptin<i;to  sjiread  the  lifjht  of  the  gospel  over  different  parts 
of  Asia.  A  few  spots  of  this  vast  region  have  been  rescued 
from  the  cruel  despotism  of  Satan,  and  some  feeble  rays  of 
gospel  light  sent  throutrh  its  spiritual  darkness.  Comparative- 
ly little  success  has  crowned  the  efforts  of  the  pious  and  be- 
nevolent. This,  however,  has  not  operated  even  to  cool  the 
ardor  by  which  the  friends  of  mankind  are  actuated.  Nor 
should  it.  For  we  know  that  a  period  is  fixed  in  the  counsels 
of  heaven,  when  "the  knowledge  of  the  Lord  shall  cover  the 
earth  as  the  waters  cover  the  sea."  Whether  this  j)eriod  be 
near,  or  whether  it  be  distant,  is  not  for  us  to  determine.  But 
when  it  shall  come,  we  ma3^1ook  forward  to  it,  as  the  era  of  a 
happy  revolution  in  the  condition  of  Asiatic  society;  as  the 
era  whence  the  stagnating  current  of  its  civilization  shall 
again  begin  to  liow,  and  its  fettered  energies  be  set  free  from 
their  confinement.  For  the  experience  of  its  effects  in  other 
regions  permits  us  not  to  doubt,  that,  along  with  the  religion 
of  Jesus,  in  this  quarter  of  the  world  also  shall  be  sown  the 
seeds  of  civil  liberty,  and  be  laid  the  foundations  of  progres- 
sive improvement. 

Having  occupied  so  large  a  space  in  the  record  of  our  ob- 
servations in  relation  to  America  and  Europe,  we  feel  obliged 
in  our  survey  of  the  inhabitants  of  this  portion  of  the  globe,  to 
proceed  upon  the  principle  of  selection,  and  to  turn  our  atten- 
tion to  those  nations  and  tribes  only,  an  acquaintance  with 
whose  manners  and  customs  may  be  supposed  to  be  most 
valuable  and  interesting. 


ASIATIC    MMUBES. 

L  CIRCASSIANS. 

7^e  Circasniavft  consist  of  numerous  tribes,  who  occupy  the 
mountainous  districts  bciwet^n  flie  T.lack  Sea  and  the  Cas- 
pian. They  have  long  been  celebrated  for  the  beauty  of  their 
features,  and  the  symmetry  of  their  form;  and  not  without 
re.ison.  Their  noses  are  aquiline,  their  eyebrows  arched 
and  regular,  mouths  small,  teeth  r<^nKukably  white,  and  their 
ears  neither  so  large  nrr  so  promin«'nt,  as  among  the  Tartars, 
their  neighbors.  Their  hair  is  brown,  of  various  shades,  gen- 
erally dark,  and  sometimes  approaching  to  black.  They  are 
of  the  midflle  size,  rarely  exceeding  five  feet  eight  or  nine 
inclifs  in  bright ;  and  they  are  finely  shaped  and  very  active. 
They  bear  in  their  countenance  a  most  striking  expression  of 
ferocious  valor,  cunning,  suspicion,  and  distrust.  The  women 
are  finely  shaped,  have  very  delicate  features,  smooth,  clear 


A  Cossack.        P.  366. 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  3S3 

DRESS. 

complexions,  beautiful  black  eyes,  and  a  fascinating  perfection 
of  countenance.  Their  feet  are  remarkably  small,  an  effect 
of  their  forcing  them,  when  very  young,  into  very  tight  slip- 
pers ;  and  their  slender  waists,  which  are  considered  as  the 
grand  essential  of  beauty,  are  produced  by  tight  lacing  in 
leathern  belts,  put  on  from  the  hour  of  their  birth,  and  worn 
till  they  are  married.  This  preposterous  custom  renders  the 
shoulders  disproportionably  broad.  ,  Many  of  the  Turkish 
and  Persian  harems  are  supplied  with  ttiese  females,  who  are 
carried  off  by  the  petty  princes  in  their  plundering  expeditions, 
and  sold  ;  or  if  this  method  fail,  they  sell  their  own  daughters, 
or  those  of  their  vassals. 

These  'people,  in  their  common  attire,  have  the  legs,  feet, 
and  arms,  with  a  considerable  portion  of  the  body,  naked. 
They  wear  no  shirt,  and  only  a  pair  of  coarse  ragged  drawers, 
reaching  a  little  below  the  knee.  Over  their  shoulders  they 
carry,  even  in  the  midst  of  summer,  a  heavy  thick  cloak  of 
felt,  or  the  hide  of  a  goat  with  the  hair  outwards,  reaching  be- 
low the  waist.  Under  this  covering  appear  the  sabre,  musket, 
bow,  quiver,  and  other  weapons.  Their  heads  are  shorn,  and 
covered  with  an  embroidered  cap,  quilted  with  cotton,  in  the 
form  of  a  melon ;  this,  among  the  wealthy,  is  ornamented  with 
gold  and  silver  laces.  In  some  nations,  the  dress  of  the  supe- 
rior persons  is  more  elegant.  The  under  garment  is  made  of 
a  light  stuff,  over  which  is  worn  a  short,  rich  waistcoat;  and 
this  is  surmounted  with  a  cloak  of  cloth,  or  other  strong 
woven  stuff,  somew^hat  shorter  than  the  under  garment,  with 
the  sleeves  slit  open,  and  bordered  with  furs,  and  furnished 
with  two  small  embroidered  breast  pockets,  for  containing 
cartridges.  The  breeches  are  made  with  knee-straps,  and 
the  seams  are  bound  with  small  lace,  or  embroidery,  which 
the  women  very  skilfully  manufacture  of  gold  and  silver 
threads. 

The  Circassians  are  excellent  equestrians;  their  horses  are 
high  bred  Arabians,  and  extremely  fleet ;  and  they  so  much 
excel  the  Cossacks  in  horsemanship,  that  the  latter  acknow- 
ledge their  inability  to  overtake  them  in  pursuit. 

When  a  prince,  or  usden,  pays  a  visit  in  full  dress,  he  arrays 
himself  with  all  his  accoutrements  and  coat  of  arms,  over 
which  he  occasionally  has  an  additional  jacket  of  mall.  When 
people  of  the  lower  class  do  not  carry  a  sabre  with  their  other 
arms,  they  have  a  strong  staff,  about  four  feet  and  a  half  in 
length,  with  a  large  iron"  head,  at  one  end,  and  a  sharp  iron 
pike,  about  eighteen  inches  long,  at  the  other,  which  they  throw 
like  a  dart,  with  great  accuracy.  Persons  of  wealth  and  rank 
never  leave  their  dwellings  without  a  sabre ;  nor  do  they  ven- 
ture beyond  the  limits  of  the  village  otherwise  than  completely 
arrayed,  with  their  breast  pockets  well  supplied  with  ball  car- 
tridges, for  every  one  plunders  his  neighbor.  The  inhabit- 
ants of  the  plains  go  completely  armed  to  the  labors  of  the 
33 


386  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

CIRCASSIANS. 

field;  the  crops  are  guarded  by  armed  men;  and  the  imple- 
ments of  liusliundry  arc  not  more  essentia.1  to  the  harvest,  than 
tlie  carbhie,  the  pistol,  and  the  sabre. 

The  dress  of  the  females  consists  of  a  tight  jacket  over  the 
under  garment,  and  an  open  petticoat,  which  reaches  to  the  an- 
kles. The  head  is  covered  with  a  cap,  somewhat  resembing 
that  of  the  other  sex,  but  drawn  up  at  top  in  form  of  a  cri)wn. 
Under  this,  the  hair  is  turned  up  in  a  thick  queue,  which  is 
also  covered  with  a  piece  of  fine  linen.  Married  women  wear 
wide  trousers;  and  after  the  birth  of  their  first  child,  they  be- 
gin to  cover  the  head  with  a  white  kerchief,  drawn  close  over 
the  forehead,  and  fastened  under  the  chin.  When  females 
go  abroad,  they  wear  high  wooden  clogs,  to  keep  their  feel 
clear,  and  draw  mittens  over  their  delicate  hands.  Girls  are 
permitted  to  dye  the  finger  nails  with  the  flowers  of  balsami- 
tia,  called  kna  in  their  dialect ;  but  painting  the  face  is  con- 
sidered as  a  meretricious  artifice. 

The  housfs,  or  hiifs,  of  tlieftr  people  are  made  of  platted 
osiers,  plastered  within  and  without,  and  covered  with  straw. 
Forty  or  fifty  of  them  placed  in  a  circle,  constitute  a  village. 
The  utmost  cleanliness  prevails  in  these  dwellings,  as  well  as 
in  the  persons,  dress,  and  cookery,  of  the  inhabitants.  Each 
family  has  two  of  these  huts;  one  appropriated  to  the  use  of 
the  husband,  and  the  reception  of  strangers;  the  other  to  the 
wife  and  family.  At  meals,  the  whole  family  is  assembled 
together;  their  food  is  extremely  simple,  consisting  only  of 
a  little  meat,  some  millet  paste,  and  a  fermented  beer,  made 
of  the  same  grain.  In  their  excursions,  their  saddle  serves 
for  a  pillow,  their  piece  of  felt  for  a  bed,  and  their  large 
cloak  for  a  covering.  In  bad  weather,  they  construct  a 
small  tent  with  the  felt,  which  is  supported  by  branches  of 
trees. 

The  Mohammedan  Cirrmfniann  bury  their  dead  with  their  face 
towards  Mecca;  and  tlie  moollah,  or  priest,  reads  some 
passages  from  the  Koran  at  the  funeral,  for  which  he  is  usu- 
ally rewarded  with  the  best  hor.se  of  the  deceased.  The 
most  valuable  effects  were  formerly  buried  with  the  body  ;  but 
now  his  common  clothes  only  are  buried.  P.iack  is  worn  for 
a  twelvemonth,  except  for  such  as  are  slain  in  I)attle  with  the 
Russians,  whose  spirits  are  believed  to  pass  immediately  into 
paradise;  so  great  is  the  merit  deemed  of  opposition  to  that 
nation,  which  they  utterly  abhor.  When  the  head  of  a  family 
dies,  the  surviving  widow  expresses  her  a(Ilicti<jn,  by  scratch- 
ing hf-r  face  and  bosom  till  the  blood  issues;  and  the  men  strike 
their  faces  with  a  whip,  till  they  produce  black  spots,  which 
they  exhibit  for  a  considerable  time  afterwards.* 

♦  View  of  ihc  Manners  and  Cuatoma  of  all  Nationa. 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  387 

GEORGIANS. 


2.  GEORGIANS. 

These  people  occupy  a  great  part  of  the  southern  declivity 
cf  the  Caucasus  ;  and  are  in  many  respects  similar  to  the  Cir- 
cassians in  their  customs  and  manners. 

The  Georgians  are  in  general  tall,  well  proportioned,  and 
elegant  in  shape ;  but  their  minds,  unrestrained  by  education 
and  virtuous  habits,  are  depraved  and  vicious.  The  females, 
whose  grace  and  beauty  are  proverbial  throughout  the  east, 
rivhl  the  Circassians;  and  being  favorites  in  all  the  eastern 
harems,  are  sold  by  their  parents  to  slave-dealers,  who  carry 
them  about  to  the  best  markets. 

The  dress  of  the  Georgians  nearl}^  resembles  that  of  the  Cos- 
sacks ;  though  men  of  rank  frequently  appear  in  the  Persian 
costume.  They  usually  dye  their  hair,  beard,  and  nails,  of  a 
red  color  ;  and  the  women  do  the  same  to  the  palms  of  their 
hands.  The  latter  have  on  their  heads  a  cap,  or  fillet,  under 
which,  in  front,  their  black  hair  falls  upon  the  forehead :  and 
behind,  it  is  braided  into  tresses.  They  paint  their  eyebrows 
black,  so  as  to  give  them  tlie  appearance  of  one  entire  line; 
their  faces  are  coated  with  red  and  white;  and  their  air  and 
manner  are  voluptuous  in  the  extreme.  As  they  are  generally 
educated  in  convents,  the  women  can  all  read  and  write ;  qual- 
ifications quite  unusual  among  the  men,  even  of  the  highest 
rank.  Girls  are  betrothed  so  early  as  three  or  four  years  of 
age.  In  the  streets,  women  of  rank  always  appear  veiled;; 
and  there  it  is  deemed  indecorous  in  any  man  to  accost  them. 
It  is,  likev/ise,  reckoned  uncivil  in  conversation  to  inquire  af- 
ter the  v/ives  of  an}'-  of  the  company. 

Punishments  in  criminal  cases  are  in  this  country  of  the 
most  cruel  and  terrific  nature ;  fortunately,  however,  they 
are  not  frequent,  as  well  because  delinquents  can  easily  ab- 
scond into  neighboring  districts,  as  because  the  princes  are 
more  enriched  by  confiscations  of  property,  than  by  the  tor- 
tures of  the  accused.  Judicial  combats  are  the  privilege  of 
the  nobility,  and  take  place  under  the  denomination  of  an  ap- 
peal to  the  judgment  of  God,  when  the  cause  at  issue  is  of  an 
'intricate  nature,  or  when  the  power  and  interest  of  the  adverse 
parties  are  so  equal  that  neither  can  force  a  decision  of  the  tri- 
bunal in  his  favor. 

The  clergy  are  paid  liberally,  not  by  the  living,  but  by  the 
dead.  At  the  death  ef  a  Georgian,  tl>e  bishop  requires  one 
hundred  crowns,  for  performing  the  funeral  rites;  and  this  ex- 
travagant demand  must  be  satisfied,  though  the  widow  and 
children  of  the  deceased  be  ruined  by  it,  which  is  frequently 
the  case.     When  the  sum  is  paid,  the  bishop,  or  priest,  lays  a 


3S8  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

TAHTAH3. 

letter  on  the  breast  of  the  corpse,  requiring  St.  Peter  to  admit 
his  soul  into  the  mansions  of  the  blessed. 


3.  TARTARS.  ' 

These  people  arc  divided  into  numerous  clans,  or  hordes; 
each  of  which  has  some  peculiar  manners;  but  our  limits  will 
allow  little  more  than  a  cfeneral  view  of  them.  The  country 
named  after  them  has  Persia,  Tibet,  and  China,  on  the  south, 
from  whence  they  are  dilfused  as  far  as  the  Northern  Ocean. 
They  have  in  all  ages  been  a  wandering  people,  renowned  for 
their  invincible  courage,  and  surprising  conquests.  China, 
Hindostan,  Persia,  and  part  of  Europe,  have  all  witnessed 
their  prowess,  and  been  subjugated  by  their  arms.  They, 
nevertheless,  disdain  the  confinement  of  a  sedentary  life,  and 
on  every  return  of  the  spring,  they  recommence  their  pere- 
grinations. When  they  find  a  fertile  spot,  they  pitch  their 
tents,  and  when  all  the  produce  is  consumed,  remove  in  quest 
of  a  fresh  supply. 

Spread  over  a  vast  extent  of  country,  where  they  are  sub- 
jected to  great  diversities  of  climate  and  local  circumstances, 
the  different  tribes  of  Tartars  exhibit  considrrdhlc  rnrirfy  in 
Vici}'  jilnj.ilcdl  (ind  mnral  chardcterf!,  though  always  retaining 
distinctive  marks  of  the  original  stock.  The  genuine  Tartar 
is  of  the  middle  size,  and  thin,  strnncr,  athletic,  and  robust. 
His  head  is  oval,  his  face  fiat,  his  forehead  wrinkled  ;  his  eyes 
are  small,  but  expressive,  and  generally  lijack  ;  his  eyebrows 
are  heavy,  his  cheek-bones  high  ;  his  nose  is  short  and  thick; 
his  mouth  small,  teeth  white  and  even  ;  his  chin  long,  his  hair 
dark  brown  or  black  ;  his  complexion,  though  dark,  is  ruddy 
and  lively  ;  his  countenance  is  open  and  friendly,  his  body 
well  proportioned,  with  an  easy,  respectful  deportment.  He 
is  fierce,  warlike,  and  fond  of  himting;  despising  fatigue,  at- 
tached to  independence;  and  frequently  inlumianly  savage. 
The  bloom  of  health  and  symmetry  of  shape  cause  the  females 
to  rival  in  personal  charms  the  women  of  most  Eiu'opean 
countries.  Temperance  and  cleanliness  are  characteristics  in 
both  sexes. 

The  irralih  of  the  Tartars  consists  in  their  flocks  and  herds, 
which  they  exchange  with  the  Russians,  and  other  traders,  for 
clothes  for  themselves  and  families.  Thi-ir  dress  consists 
jirincipally  of  large  calico  shirts  and  drawers.  Those  in  the 
northern  parts  are  lined  with  sheep-skins  ;  while  in  the  south- 
ern districts,  they  seltlom  wear  shirts  in  the  smumer,  and  use 
a  kind  of  doublet,  without  sleeves,  made  of  sheep-skin,  with 
wool  outside.  In  winter,  the  skin  is  worn  with  the  wool  inside. 
A  large  sheep-skin  robe,  fastened  about  the  waist  with  straps, 
often  covers  the  whole.  Capacious  boots,  and  small  round 
caps  of  leather,  edged  with  fur,  complete  their  costume.    The 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  38J4 

DRESS — FOOD — DWELLINGS. 

dress  of  the  females  differs  little  from  that  of  the  men:  in  the 
warmer  parts,  their  calico  garment  alone  is  worn  in  summer-, 
but  ia  winter  they  add  a  large  sheep-skin  gown,  or  robe,  and 
a  cap,  or  bonnet,  similar  to  that  of  the  men.  Red  is  the  color 
highest  in  esteem  with  the  Tartars:  their  chiefs,  though  other- 
wise meanly  attired,  seldom  fail  to  have  a  scarlet  robe  for  state 
•occasions ;  and  a  woman  of  quality  would  not  think  herself 
well  dressed,  were  she  without  a  garment  of  this  hue.  These 
robes  are  often  made  of  silk,  or  stuff,  over  which  a  sheep-skia 
coat  is  worn.  In  time  of  war,  they  cover  their  heads  and 
bodies  with  iron  net- work,  the  links  of  which  are  close  enough 
•to  be  proof  against  any  weapons,  except  firearms,  of  which 
they  stand  in  great  awe. 

As  the  Tartars  in  general  neitlier  so^v  nor  reap,  nor  make 
hay  for  their  cattle,  vegetables  scarcely  form  any  part  of  their 
diet:  a  little  millet  is  the  only  grain  they  use,  and  this  but 
sparingly.  They  live  upon  horse-flesh,  mutton,  fish,  wild-fowl, 
and  venison;  but  are  not  fond  of  beef  or  veal.  They  have 
-plenty  of  milk,  butter,  and  cheese ;  but  mare's  milk  is  always 
preferred  ;  and  from  this  they  make  a  very  strong  spirit,  of 
which  they  are  very  fond. 

The  ordinary  dwellings  of  the  Tartars  consist  of  small  tents, 
of  an  oval  form,  covered  with  a  kind  of  felt,  In  which  both  sexes 
are  promiscuously  lodged :  the  small  aperture  which  serves 
for  a  door,  alwa)'^s  faces  the  south.  Even  the  houses,  or  pal- 
aces, of  the  great,  are  no  more  than  wooden  huts,  that  may 
be  conveniently  fixed  on  large  wagons,  and  drawn  by  a  team 
of  twenty  or  thirty  oxen. 

All  the  Tartars  are  excellent  riders,  and  constant  practice 
has  given  them  so  firm  a  seat,  that  they  have  been  supposed 
to  perform  the  ordinary  duties  of  civil  life,  to  eat,  to  drink,  and 
•even  to  sleep,  without  dismounting.  The}''  excel  in  the  man- 
agement of  the  lanes:  the  long  Tartar  bow  is  dravi^n  with  a 
nervous  arm,  and  the  arrow  is  directed  to  its  object  with  al- 
most unerring  aim  and  irresistible  force.  The  general  hunt- 
ing-matches, the  pride  and  delight  of  the  Tartar  princes,  con- 
stitute instructive  exercises  for  their  numerous  cavalry  ;  and 
the  amusements  of  the  chase  serve  as  a  prelude  to  the  con- 
quest of  an  empire. 

The  Tartars  have  few  mechanics  among  them,  except  such 
as  make  arms  and  female  ornaments,  and  dressers  of  skins. 
Hospitality  is  their  grand  characteristic,  particularly  towards 
strangers,  who  confidently  put  themselves  under  their  protec- 
tion. They  ar«  of  an  easy,  cheerful  temper,  seldom  depress- 
ed by  care  or  melancholy,  and  so  much  delighted  with  their 
own  country,  that  they  conceive  it  impossible  for  a  foreigner 
to  traverse  their  plain.s,  without  envying  them  ia  their  posses- 
sion.* 

♦  A  spin's  Cosmorama. 
33* 


390  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

THE  CAl.MUCKS. 


4.  THE  CALMUCKS. 

These  people,  though  commonly  considered  as  Tartars,  are 
in  reality  a  tribe  of  the  Mongols,  or  Moiruls,  who  liave  tiiem- 
selves  been  also  improperly  confounded  with  the  Tartars. 

The  Calmucks  are  extensive  wanderers,  and  to  be  found  in 
nearly  the  whole  of  Asia,  north  of  India  and  China;  and  even 
in  tlie  uouthern  parts  of  European  Russia,  to  the  banks  of  the 
Dnieper.  They  are  distinguished  bj-^  peculiarity  of  features 
and  manners,  from  the  surrounding  Tartar  tribes.  Their  per- 
sonal appearance  is  athletic  and  revolting;  their  skin  nearly 
black;  their  hair  coarse,  and  their  language  extremely  harsh. 
The  men,  who  are  frequently  of  f^igaiitic  stature,  have  no  other 
clothing  than  a  piece  of  cloth  about  the  waist.  The  women, 
who  are  uncommonly  hardy,  have  broad,  high  cherk-bones, 
very  small  eyes,  set  at  a  great  distance  apart,  scarcely  any 
eyebrows,  broad,  tiat  noses,  and  enormous  ears.  The  black 
hair  of  the  married  women  hangs  in  thick  braids  on  each  side 
of  the  face,  and  over  the  shoulders,  the  ends  being  fastened 
with  pieces  of  lead  or  tin  ;  the  unmarried  have  only  one  braid 
behind.  Their  ears  are  adorned  with  shells,  or  large  irregular 
pearls.  Children  of  both  sexes  go  entirely  naked,  till  they  arc 
twelve  or  fourteen  years  of  age.  The  Calmuck  women  are 
fond  of  tobacco,  which  they  smoke  in  short  pipes ;  and  they 
are  renowned  riders,  often  outstripping  their  male  companions 
in  the  chase. 

These  people  dwell  in  conical  tents,  called  khahitka,  construct- 
ed with  cane,  covered  with  a  thick  camel's  hair  felt,  and  placed 
on  wagons,  for  convenience  of  removal,  without  takinj^  them 
down.  A  hole  in  the  top  serves  the  twofold  purpose  of  chim- 
ney and  window.  Interiorly,  these  tents  are  commodious,  and 
supplied  with  many  necessaries  of  life;  for  the  Calmucks  are 
farther  advanced  in  the  arts  of  life  than  many  of  the  Asiatic 
erratics.  Several  arts,  generally  considered  to  be  peculiar 
to  civilized  nations,  are  here  to  be  met  with;  and  from  time 
immemorial  they  have  possessed  that  of  making  gunpowder. 
They  are  nevertheless  so  averse  to  dwelling  in  towns,  that  they 
deem  the  confined  air  of  a  room  insupportable. 

Their  favorite  food  is  horse-flesh,  which  they  often  eat  raw; 
and  generally  large  pieces  of  it  are  placed  on  \i|iright  sticks, 
near  their  tents,  to  be  dried  by  the  sun.     On  a  journey,  they 

filace  it  under  their  saddles,  to  be  ready  when  wanted.  The 
imbsof  dogs,  cats,  rats,  marmots,  and  oth(>r  animals,  are  also 
seen  suspended  about  the  tents,  and  are  often  quite  black.  Ve- 
getable.<v,  bread,  and  fruits,  constitute  no  |iart  f)f  their  diet.  The 
drink  of  these  remarkai)le  people  is  sour  or  fermented  mare's 
milk,  which  they  call  knnmisa  ;  and  from  which  they  also  pro- 
duce brandy  by  distillation. 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  391 


KAMTSCHATDALES. 


The  Calmucks  are  as  cheerful  as  they  are  robust;  seldom 
dejected  by  sorrow,  never  subdued  by  despair.  Being  less  in- 
dolent than  most  other  Asiatics,  they  are  highly  esteemed  as 
servants  in  all  parts  of  the  Russian  empire ;  but  Cossacks  only 
will  intermarry  with  them.  They  generally  attain  an  advanced 
age,  and  are  even  then  able  to  bear  the  fatigues  of  horseman- 
ship.    Old  age  is  much  honored  among  them. 

These  people  are  divided  into  three  ranks,  namely,  the  lohite 
bones,  or  nobility ;  the  black  bones,  or  bondmen ;  and  the  cler- 
gy. The  ladies  are  called  white  flesh  ;  and  females  of  the  low- 
ei'  order,  black  flesh. 

When  fully  equipped  for  war,  the  Calmuck  wears  a  steel  hel- 
met, with  a  gilt  crest,  from  which  a  network  of  iron  hangs 
over  part  of  his  face,  neck,  and  shoulders.  He  has  also  a  jacket 
of  similar  work,  which  adapts  itself  to  all  positions  of  the 
body ;  or,  in  lieu  of  this,  he  puts  on  a  coat  of  mail,  composed 
of  small  tin  plates.  His  weapons  are  a  lance,  a  bow  and  ar- 
rows, a  poniard,  and  a  sabre.  Firearms,  being  considered  a 
mark  of  distinction,  are  borne  only  by  the  richest. 

The  marriages  of  these  people  are  celebrated  on  horseback. 
On  the  appointed  day  for  the  nuptials,  the  bride,  mounted  on 
a  fleet  horse,  rides  off  at  full  speed.  Her  lover  pursues  ;  and 
if  he  overtakes  her,  she  becomes  his  wife  without  further  cer- 
emony. But  if  the  woman  be  disinclined  towards  her  pursuer, 
she  will  not  suffer  him  to  overtake  her,  and  continues  her  flight 
till  his  horse  is  knocked  up. 

When  a  Calmuck  possesses  an  idol,  he  places  it  near  the 
head  of  his  bed,  and  sets  before  it  several  small  consecrated 
cups,  filled  with  milk,  or  other  food.  On  festivals,  the  idol  is 
decorated,  and  perfumes  are  burned  before  it. 


5.  THE  KAMTSCHATDALES. 

These  people  occup}''  a  peninsula  near  the  eastern  extremit)'' 
of  Asiatic  Russia.  They  are  few  in  number,  wild  in  their 
manners,  and,  though  baptized  into  the  Christian  religion, 
in  compliance  with  the  will  of  the  Russians,  they  are  all  still 
idolaters. 

The  Kamtschatdales  are  a  diminutive  race.  They  have  a 
large  head,  with  a  long  flat  face,  small  eyes,  thin  lips,  scanty 
hair,  and  tawny  complexion.  The  females  are  often  fair,  and 
handsomer  than  the  Samoiede  women.  Their  character  is 
mild,  and  their  disposition  hospitable.  Hunting  and  fishing 
constitute  their  chief  employment,  in  both  which  they  are 
dexterous  and  persevering;  frequently  pursuing  their  game 
over  rocks  and  precipices,  where  few  others  would  venture. 

Their  dress  consists  of  a  cotton  shirt,  with  a  loose  frock ; 
and  trousers  of  reindeer  skins,  stripped  of  the  hair  and 
made  pliable,  are  common.     The  costume  is  the  same  for 


392  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

THE  K&MT8CHATDALES. 

both  sexes,  except  that  the  women  have  an  under  garment, 
which  they  conunonly  wear  at  home,  consisting  of  wide 
breeches,  and  a  waistcoat,  sewed  together.  On  holydays,  the 
women  frequently  put  on  a  silk  gown,  after  the  old  Russian 
manner,  with  party-colored  kercliiefs  about  their  heads.  The 
women  do  all  their  work  in  mittens  ;  and  use  white  and  red 
paint  profusely. 

These  people  formerly  lived  in  hovels  excavated  in  the 
ground,  some  of  which  are  now  existing,  though  in  most  in- 
stances they  have  been  exchanged  f)r  the  log-huts  of  the 
Russians.  In  the  south,  these  huts  are  raised  on  posts  to  the 
height  of  twelve  or  fifteen  feet.  The  inland  Kamtschatdales 
build  their  villages  in  thick  woods,  and  other  naturally  strong 
places,  at  a  distance  from  the  sea,  but  have  summer  habi- 
tations near  the  mouths  of  rivers.  Those  who  live  on  the 
coast,  build  their  villa.'xes  very  near  the  shore.  To  kindle  fire, 
they  rub  a  small  round  stick  in  a  hole  perforated  through  a 
dry  board,  till  it  takes  fire;  and  instead  of  tinder,  they  use 
dried  grass  beaten  soft. 

The  diet  of  these  people  consists  chiefly  offish,  prepared  in 
various  ways;  and  they  are  particularly  fond  of  cacior  made 
of  the  roes  offish.  They  never  go  on  a  journey  without  some 
dry  caviar,  with  a  pound  of  which  a  Kaintschatdale  can  sub- 
sist for  a  great  while,  tn^ery  birch  or  alder  tree  supplying  him 
with  bark  to  eat  with  it,  instead  of  bread.  They  also  very 
much  esteem  a  dish  which  they  call  huigul ;  consisting  of  fish 
that  has  been  laid  in  a  pit  till  it  becomes  sour,  or  rather  putrid  ; 
and  tliough  the  smell  is  intolerable  to  all  others,  to  a  Kamt- 
Bchatdale  the  odor  is  an  exfjuisite  perfume,  and  the  article  it- 
self an  absolute  liixiny.  The  flesh  of  land  and  large  sea 
animals  they  boil  with  different  herbs  and  roots:  the  broih 
they  diink  out  of  ladles  and  bowls,  and  they  take  out  the  meat 
upon  boards,  and  eat  it  in  their  hands. 

The  fat  of  the  whale  and  walrus  they  also  boil  with  roots: 
and  a  principal  dish  at  all  thoir  fciists,  which  tliey  call  silarra, 
is  made  by  jiounding  roots  and  berries  of  different  kinds,  with 
caviar,  and  mixing  up  the  whole  with  whale  or  seal  fat.  In 
former  times,  their  ordinary  beverage  wa?  water;  and  when 
they  made  merry,  they  drank  such  as  had  mushrooms  steeped 
in  it.  They  now  swallow  spirits  ;is  freely  as  the  Riissiiins. 
After  dinner,  however,  Ihey  still  drink  water ;  anri,  on  going  to 
bed,  set  a  vessel  of  water  by  them,  with  the  addition  of  snow 
or  ice  to  keep  it  cold  :  this  is  always  consumed  before  the 
morning. 

As  reindeer  have  become  scarce  in  Kamtschatka,  and 
horses  cannot  easily  be  supported,  the  natives  train  their  dogs 
to  draw  their  sledges,  on  which  they  travel  with  surprising 
velocity  over  the  snow.  The  dogs  are  peculiar  to  the  coun- 
try, and  can  bear  any  degree  of  cold  rather  than  heat.  They 
are  fed  on  fish,  raw,  dressed,  dried,  fresh,  frozen,  or  putrid, 
as  suits  the  convenience  of  their  owners.    Six  oi  them  gen- 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  393 

ARABIA. 

erally  form  a  team  ;  and  they  will  draw  six  or  seven  hundred 
weight,  at  the  rate  of  eight  or  ten  miles  an  hour.  Each  dog 
has  a  particular  name,  which  is  of  great  use  in  driving  them, 
as  they  are  managed  by  the  voice,  and  the  jingling  of  rings  or 
shells  fastened  to  a  stick,  neither  reins  nor  whip  being  used 
by  the  driver.* 


6.  ARABIA. 

• 

The  modern  inhabitants  of  Arabia  are  divided  into  two 
classes;  the  genuine  and  the  adulterated  Arabs.  The  first 
class  are  the  Bedouins  of  the  desert,  who  have  preserved,  in 
the  greatest  purity,  the  character  and  manners  of  their  ances- 
tors. Attached  to  a  pastoral  hfe,  and  acknowledging  no  su- 
perior but  the  chief  of  their  tribe,  they  pitch  their  tents  where 
caprice  or  necessity  dictates,  and  have  maintained,  in  the  de- 
sei%  that  freedom  and  independence  which  no  subject  can 
enjoy.  Their  chief  occupation  is  the  breeding  of  sheep  and 
camels,  which  are  their  only  treasures.  They  disdain  hus- 
bandry as  an  employment  by  which  they  would  be  degraded, 
and  look  upon  those  who  inhabit  cities,  as  having  forfeited, 
by  their  intercourse  with  strangers,  and  their  indolent  manner 
of  life,  all  title  to  the  dignified  appellation  of  a  descendant  of 
Ishmael.  Robbers  by  profession,  "  their  hands  are  against 
every  man;"  but  right,  not  necessity,  is  the  plea  by  which  the 
Bedouins  stop  and  pillage  the  traveller  in  the  desert.  For 
as  Ishmael  received  no  share  of  his  father's  patrimony,  but 
was  driven  into  the  wilderness  to  shift  for  himself,  they  con- 
sider themselves  at  liberty  to  regain,  by  force,  that  inherit- 
ance of  which  he  was  so  unjustly  deprived.  Their  robberies, 
however,  are  not  attended  with  murder  or  ill  treatment,  unless 
opposition  is  made  to  what  they  deem  a  lawful  and  reason- 
able demand.  "Undress  thyself,"  cries  the  robber;  "thy 
aunt  (my  wife)  is  without  a  garment;"  submission  ensures 
safety  ;  but  resistance  must  be  atoned  for  by  the  blood  of  the 
offender. 

The  life  of  the  Bedouins  is  a  life  of  danger  and  distress. 
Compelled  to  wander  in  search  of  a  hard-earned  subsistence, 
and  knowing  the  wants  and  inconveniences  of  these  desolate 
solitudes,  their  hearts  are  ever  open  to  the  calls  cf  humanity. 
The  sufferings  and  misfortunes  of  the  stranger  entitle  him  to 
tlieir  compassion  ;  and  he  who  confides  in  their  honor  is  sure 
of  their  hospitality  and  protection.  They  inhabit  a  solitary 
desert,  which  affords  them  few  of  the  comforts,  and  none  of 
the  luxuries  of  life.  Their  povert)'',  however,  is  voluntary ; 
they  prefer  liberty  to  wealth,  and  pastoral  simplicity  to  a  life 
of  labor  and  constraint.   If,  at  any  time,  by  pillage  or  exchange, 

*  View  of  the  Costumes  and  Peculiarities  of  all  Nations. 


391  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

ARABIA. 

they  may  appropriate  to  themselves  the  fruits  of  industiy,  yet 
they  can  be  of  little  advantage  to  them  who  know  not  their 
value.  Articles  of  food  and  trappings  for  their  horses  are  the 
only  riches  they  require;  so  that  the  most  precious  commodi- 
ties of  a  plundered  caravan  are  often  scattered  in  the  desert^ 
as  useless  and  insignificant.  The  Bedouins  arc  early  Irainea 
to  the  exercise  of  arms  and  horsemanship,  which  the  contin- 
ual jarrings  of  the  ind^-pendent  tribes  render  necessary  for 
their  protection  and  defence.  The  care  of  the  flocks  is  aban- 
doned to  the  women  of  the  tribe,  while  the  youth  are  ever  on 
horseback  and  in  the  field,  practising  the  use  of -the  bow,  the 
javelin,  and  the  swonl.  It  was  a  usual  saying  amongst  them, 
that  God  had  bestowed  upon  the  Arabs  turbans  instead  of 
diadems,  swords  instead  of  intrenchments,  tents  instead  of 
houses,  and  poems  instead  of  written  laws. 

The  inhabitants  of  the  cities  are  more  indolent  and  effemi- 
nate, and  may  be  said  to  have  lost,  by  their  intermixture  with 
other  nations,  somewhat  of  their  national  character  and  man- 
ners. They  are  chiefly  employed  in  merchandise,  and  in  cul- 
tivating the  land  ;  and  are  kept  in  constant  poverty  by  the  ex- 
orbitant taxes,  levied  to  support  the  pomp  and  majesty  of  a 
despotic  monarchy.  They  have  acquired  a  spirit  of  duplicity, 
which  is  observable  in  all  their  intercourse  with  strangers; 
and  they  take  every  opportunity  of  cheating  the  Christian;?, 
and  then  drawing  them  into  expense  and  trout)le ;  and  these 
effeminate  citizens,  by  their  living  under  an  arbitrary  govern- 
ment, seem  to  have  lost,  in  a  great  measure,  that  generosity 
and  probity  for  which  tlieir  brethren  in  the  desert  are  so  high- 
ly distinguished. 

The  Arab  is  not  robust,  but  he  is  rather  tall,  well  formed, 
and  active,  fearless  of  danger,  and  insensible  to  fatigue:  his 
mind  is  (piick,  and  his  character  marked  by  the  extremes  of 
credulity  and  enthusiasm.  Ilis  head  is  oval,  his  brow  high 
and  arched,  his  nose  aquiline,  and  his  t'yes  are  large.  His 
dark  complexion  is  rendered  still  deeper  by  exposure  to  the 
sun,  but  he  has  an  uncommonly  gentle  look.  The  women  are 
taller  in  proportion  than  the  men,  and  have  a  dignified  deport- 
ment ;  but  their  elegant  forms  are  degraded  by  their  ragged 
clothing  and  squalid  looks;  and  the  regularity  of  their  fea- 
tures loses  its  attraction  by  the  influence  of  their  copper  tint. 
To  be  admired,  they  must  be  seen  at  a  distance,  and  the  be- 
holder must  confine  himself  to  general  appearance. 

T/if:  Arabs,  in  thrir  r.rtrrinr  drmrannr,  are  dignified  and  re- 
served, seldom  provoked  to  laughter.  .Sparing  of  words,  they 
are  offended  at  a  repetition  of  questions  ;  their  speech  is  slow, 
weighty,  and  articulate;  their  apjirehension  quick,  with  a 
spirit  of  independence  appearing  in  the  countenance  of  the 
lowest  of  them.  Their  virtues  and  their  vices  are,  in  a  degree, 
peculiar  to  tlieraselves.     They  are  the  firmest  friends,  and  the 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  395 


HOSPITALITY URBANITY. 


most  implacable  enemies.  Their  hearts  are  open  and  sin- 
cere ;  but  they  have  a  natural  disposition  to  war,  bloodshed, 
and  rapine. 

Hospitality  seems  to  be  the  characteristic  of  the  nation. 
Throughout  the  territories  of  Yemen,  (Arabia  Felix,)  every 
accommodation  is  provided  for  the  comfort  and  convenience 
of  travellers.  Reservoirs  of  fresh  water  are  built  by  the  side 
of  the  highway,  and  small  vaulted  houses  to  shelter  the  trav- 
eller from  the  scorching  heat  of  the  sun,  or  when  surprised  by 
a  sudden  storm.  Caravansaries  are  also  established  by 
wealthy  individuals,  where  strangers  are  lodged  and  enter- 
tained free  of  any  expense.  Generosity  and  valor  are  the  fa- 
vorite themes  of  the  Arabian  poet ;  and  their  bitterest  reproach 
against  any  tribe  is,  "  that  the  men  have  not  a  heart  to  give, 
nor  the  women  to  deny." 

This  spirit  of  generosity  is  not  confined  to  the  highest  ranks, 
but  is  peculiar  to  every  individual  of  the  nation.  The  poorest 
Bedouin,  as  well  as  the  proudest  Emir,  will  distribute  with 
pleasure  and  satisfaction  his  little  store  of  bread  and  dates  to 
all  around  him.  All  are  invited,  without  respect  either  to 
rank  or  religion;  and  to  eat  with  a  Bedouin  is  the  firmest 
pledge  of  his  protection.  Their  bounty  and  kindness  are  ex- 
tended even  to  the  animals,  who  grow  old  in  their  service ; 
they  are  exempted  from  every  species  of  labor,  and  allowed 
to  graze  upon  the  richest  pastures.  Among  the  Arabs  an 
oath  is  held  most  sacred;  and  he  who  violates  his  engage- 
ments is  doomed  to  grow  old  in  ignominy.  Their  alliances 
are  signed  with  blood,  in  order  to  impress  upon  them  a  more 
sacred  character.  The  rights  of  friendship  are  deemed  invi- 
olable ;  and  the  respect  and  affection  which  subsist  between 
parents  and  children  in  this  country  have  been  a  theme  of 
praise  to  historians  of  every  age. 

In  courtesy  and  urbanity  of  manners,  the  Arabians  may  vie 
with  the  most  enlightened  and  civilized  nations  in  Europe.  In 
Yemen  they  use  many  compliments ;  "  people  of  rank,"  says 
Neibuhr,  "  embrace  their  equals,  and  all  treat  one  another  with 
a  degree  of  politeness  that  surprises  strangers."  The  Salant 
Aleihim,  "  peace  be  with  you,"  is  the  common  salutation  in 
Arabia;  in  pronouncing  which,  they  lay  the  right  hand  upon 
the  heart.  When  two  Bedouins  meet  in  the  desert,  they  ex- 
press their  kindness  and  respect  by  frequently  kissing  and 
shaking  hands,  repeating,  at  every  shake,  the  question,  "  how 
art  thou?"  Their  visits  are  conducted  with  that  parade  and 
ceremony  common  to  eastern  nations;  and  they  kiss  the  hand 
of  a  superior  in  token  of  respect. 

Notwithstanding  the  amiable  dispositions  of  generosity  and 
kindness,  so  striking  in  the  Arab  character,  we  cannot  but  be 
shocked  and  disgusted  at  their  thirst  for  revenge,  which  knows 
no  satiety.  Grave  and  manly  in  his  outward  deportment,  the 
Arab  piques  himself  upon  the  coolness  of  his  temper  and  the 
control  of  his  passions  j  but,  when  once  provoked,  he  is  impla- 


396  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

AKAPIA. 

cable  and  unrelenting.  An  affront,  once  received,  is  laid  up 
and  cherished  in  his  breast;  and  no  circumstance  no/- time 
can  efface  it  from  his  mind,  until  he  has  obtained  full  repara- 
tion. The  Arab  has  no  idea  of  forgiveness;  his  whole  soul 
seems  absorbed  in  the  injury;  and  the  most  abject  submission 
cannot  screen  the  culjirit  from  his  rage.  An  insulting  expres- 
sion can  only  be  wiped  awaj'  by  the  blood  of  the  offender; 
and  a  murder  must  be  expiated  by  the  slaughter  of  a  family. 
The  most  irritable  and  implacable  are  the  martial  Bedouins, 
who  are  "jealous  in  honor,  sudden  and  quick  in  quarrel." 
An  indecent  action,  or  a  contemj)tuous  word,  will  raise  him  to 
madness;  and  such  is  his  vindictive  spirit,  that  he  will  pa- 
tiently wait  months  and  years  for  an  opportunity  of  revenge. 
Families,  and  sometimes  tribes,  are  tiius  involved  in  endless 
hostilities,  by  an  inadvertent  expression,  or  the  carelessness  of 
one  of  its  members;  and  the  individuals  of  either  lead  a  life  of 
incessant  malice  and  suspicion.  No  reconciliation  can  take 
place  until  the  reproach  has  been  washed  out  with  blood. 
Every  new  offence  is  added  to  tlu;  bloody  debt,  and  half  a  cen- 
tury will  sometimes  elapse  before  the  account  of  vengeance 
is  finally  settled. 

The  dress  nf  the  Arabians  is  suitable  to  the  general  fashion 
of  the  east,  except  that  they  have  more  variety  than  the  neigh- 
boring nations.  Arabians  of  distinction,  in  Yemen,  have  wide 
drawers  of  cotton  cloth,  over  which  they  wear  a  shirt;  and  a 
vest  with  strait  sleeves,  is  covered  with  a  flowing  gown.  A 
girdle  of  embroidery  encircles  the  loins,  at  which  is  suspended 
a  kind  of  crooked  cutlass,  called  a  jamhca.  They  wear,  by 
way  of  ornament,  a  piece  of  fine  linen  cloth  hanging  over 
their  shoulders.  They  use  no  stockings,  and  have  only  a  sort 
of  half-boots  or  slippers  upon  their  ieet.  Their  heatj-dress 
consists  of  from  10  to  15  bonnets  of  linen  or  cotton,  the  out- 
most richly  embroidered  with  gold,  round  which  is  wrapped  a 
sort  of  inu.slin,  with  silk  or  golden  fringes  flowing  loose  upon 
tlie  shoulders.  This  cumbersome  covering  is  to  secure  their 
heads  from  what  is  called  the  stroke  of  the  sun ;  and  in  those 
hot  countries,  laborers  will  strip  themselves  naked,  ami  place 
their  clothes  upon  their  head.  Some  have  drawers  and  a 
shirt,  but  the  greatest  number  have  only  a  piece  of  linen  about 
the  loins,  a  large  girdle  with  the  jambca,  and  a  piece  of  cloth 
about  the  shoulders.  Large  drawers,  a  flowing  shirt,  and  a 
veil,  is  the  general  dress  of  the  females.  Their  faces  are  dis- 
ficured  with  black  spots,  by  way  of  beauty,  im|iressed  into 
the  skin.  Their  eyebrows  are  artificially  blackened;  their 
feet  and  hands  stained  brown,  and  their  nails  red.  They  wear 
a  great  profusion  of  rings,  with  bracelets  and  necklaces  of 
false  pearls.  The  subjects  of  the  Imam  of  Sana  shave  their 
heads  ;  but  in  the  other  districts  the  hair  is  preserved  and 
knotted  up  behind  in  a  handkerchief  Their  mustaches  arc. 
in  general,  kept  very  short,  but  all  wear  the  beard  its  natiurai 


^kale-runners.         P.  344. 


Laplundcrs  dncuig  their  Rcindcrr.         I*.  358. 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  397 

»i    '      I  i    ■  . 

PRESS DIET. 

length.  Conformable  with  then*  dress,  is  their  manner  of  sit- 
ting. They  squat  themselves  upon  the  ground,  with  the  legs 
crossed  under  tiie  body,  a  posture  very  convenient  and  re- 
freshing to  those  who  wear  loose  garments.  In  the  presence 
of  a  superior,  an  Arab  sits  with  liis  knees  close  together,  and 
the  weight  of  his  body  resting  upon  the  heels.  In  this  posture 
they  usually  place  themselves  at  the  table,  as  it  occupies 
least  room ;  but  it  is  very  uneasy  to  those  who  are  not  accus- 
tomed to  it.  Instead  of  chairs,  which  are  unknown  in  the 
east,  the  rooms  of  the  higher  classes  are  laid  round  with  cush- 
ions, and  their  floors  with  rich  carpets. 

The  Arabs  are  in  general  abslemiojis  and  temperate.  Ani- 
mal food  is  thought  very  unwholesome  in  hot  climates;  and 
excipt  among  the  Bedouins  in  the  desert,  very  little  is  used  in 
Arabia.  Their  principal  food  consists  of  rice,  pulse,  and  milk; 
the  common  people  live  chiefly  upon  durra,  made  into  cakes, 
V.i<h  camel's  milk,  or  butter.  Their  manner  of  eating,  howev- 
er, is  most  repulsive  to  Europeans.  They  have  neither  knives 
nor  forks,  but  make  a  dexterous  use  of  their  fingers,  and  eat 
with  amazing  quickness.  No  sooner  is  a  dish  set  upon  the  ta- 
ble, than  all  hands  are  thrust  into  it,  and  it  is  instantly  emptied 
of  its  contents.  Another  immediately  supplies  its  place,  which 
is  as  quickly  despatched ;  and  the  service  is  repeated  until 
the  whole  company  are  satisfied.  Before  they  sit  down  to  ta- 
ble, they  repeat  a  short  prayer,  "in  the  name  of  the  most  mer- 
ciful God;"  and  every  one,  when  done,  rises  without  waiting 
for  the  rest,  and  pronounces,  "God  be  praised."  Their  favor- 
ite drink  is  kischer,  which  is  jirepared  from  the  husks  of  coffee 
beans,  slightly  roasted  and  pounded.  It  tastes  like  tea,  and  is 
thought  very  refreshing.  Though  the  use  of  intoxicating  liquors 
is  prohibited  in  the  Koran,  yet  some  of  them  indulge  in  pri- 
vate, but  never  appear  drunk  in  company,  or  in  the  streets. 
The  rich  substitute  tobacco  m  their  place,  smoking  it  mixed 
with  a  kind  of  odoriferous  wood,  which  communicates  to  it  a 
very  agreeable  taste;  the  lower  people  smoke  haschech,  the 
dried  leaves  of  a  sort  of  hemp,  which  exalts  their  courage,  and 
raises  their  spirits  to  a  state  of  intoxication. 

Til  eir  chief  places  of  amusement  are  the  public  coflTee-houses, 
which  are  very  much  frequented.  There  they  are  served  with 
pipes  and  coffee,  and  entertained  with  music,  songs,  and  ora- 
tions. The  orators  are  generally  poor  scholars,  who  frequent 
these  places  to  earn  a  scanty  subsistence.  They  recite  tales 
and  fables  of  their  own  invention,  or  repeat  passages  from 
some  favorite  authors.  As  all  games  of  chance  are  forbidden 
by  the  Koran,  their  principal  sedentary  amusements  are  chess 
and  draughts,  of  which  they  are  so  fond,  that  they  will  some- 
iimessit  a  whole  day  without  interruption. 

.  Strangers  to  the  luxuries  of  the  table,  the  Arabians  are 
3-i 


39S  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

ARABIA. 

rqiially  unacquainted  witli  the  comforts  of  a  <^oo(l  habitatir^. 
Their  hiMlchii'i'.s  display  no  exti-rior  ujatrnifictMice,  nor  their 
apartments  spltMidor  or  eieuance.  The  coiuiiion  people  are 
miserably  lodtred.  Houses  made  of  mud,  thatched  with  grass, 
witiiout  windows,  and  with  a  straw  mat  for  the  door,  form 
many  of  the  streets  in  the  chief  cities  of  Arabia.  The  liouse.s 
of  the  ricii,  however,  are  sometimes  built  of  stone  or  burnt 
brick,  with  terrace  roofs ;  but  lew  of  tlieui  have  ijlass  windows. 
As  it  is  considered  veiy  unpolite  to  salute  a  woman  in  Arabia, 
tiip  women  generally  occupy  separate  apartments,  which  are 
in  the  l)ack  jiart  of  the  house,  wlwre  strangers  are  nev«"r  in- 
troductnl.  Those  wiio  l)ave  no  such  apartmi-iits,  are  carehil 
vhen  they  carry  a  stranger  to  the  iiouse,  to  enter  first,  and 
cry  tnriik,  "retire,"  upon  which  tiie  women  instantly  disap- 
})ear,  and  are  invisible  to  their  best  friends. 

Tlie  Ptitri'irclni/  fofui  of  (iurfriuiiciit  has  prevailed  --imong 
tl»e  wandering  Arabs  fiom  the  remotest  antitputy.  The  au- 
thority of  a  Sciiiek  is  that  of  a  fathe)-  over  his  family,  whose 
obrdicnce  is  foluuleil  upon  natural  allection,  and  the  benevo- 
lence of  the  ruler.  All  the  hJchieks,  liowevtu',  who  belong  to  the 
same  tribe,  enter  into  an  association  for  tlieir  conunon  defence 
and  security.  They  acknowledge  a  commcin  r/iief,  who  may 
gui(h'  and  diit^ct  »li<Mn  in  their  j'l'ediitory  warfare ;  and  in 
maintaining  the  honor  and  in(I<'i)eudent-e  oi  their  tribe  a^anist 
the  attack  of  their  neighbors.  This  chi<'f  is  tlignilied  with  tlio 
title  Schick  of  Schieks,  and  is  elected  from  a  certain  family 
in  which  this  dli:nity  is  hereditary,  by  the  inferior  Schieks, 
without  any  regai'd  to  senioiity,  lineal  succession,  or  any  other 
consich-ration,  except  superiority  of  abilities.  IJe  considers 
himself  as  absolute  lord  of  his  whole  territories,  and  ac- 
cordingly exacts  the  same  duties  upon  merchandise  passing 
through  his  doniinions  as  are  li-vied  by  other  priucrs.  He  is 
ol»liir<'d  to  treat  the  infi-rior  Sil-.ieks  as  associates  rather  than 
sul)jects.  and  to  share  with  them  the  sovereign  autiatrity.  If 
dissatisfiefl  with  his  government,  tliey  depose  him,  or  depart 
with  thiir  flocks,  am!  leave  iiiui  at  tin*  mercy  of  a  rival, 
or  n>ore  powerful  tribe.  Tin*  lower  class(>s  aie  bound  to 
their  chiefs  by  the  same  tenure;  they  can  <iuit  liis  service 
at  pleasure;  their  steps  are  uncoiilinc'd,  tiie  desert  is  open, 
and  the  s|)iiit  of  liberty,  which  anuiiates  the  whole  nation, 
reniifis  theiu  inca|)ab!r  of  coutiiiUfd  subjection.  Thus  the 
Ijedouin,  nuise<l  in  indepMulence,  and.  master  ol  his  actions, 
.'{(♦on  acquires  a  hiirh  sense  of  liis  own  importance.  This 
renders  him  proud,  easily  provoked,  and  imjiatiejit  of  control. 
Jirnorant  of  submissifui,  he  cannot  brook  the  huiLniage  of 
authority,  and  his  .s<'rvk;<'-s  a4"e  the  effects  of  in(  lination  latlur 
than  of  constraint. 

"  'J'/ir  (iiili/  ndfr  ir,ii/nf  Irarfnimr  in  Arabia,  as  in  other  roun- 
tries  of  Asia  and   Afiica,   is  in  caiavanu.     A  caravan  li»  a 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  399 

MODE  OF  TRAVELLING — CARAVANS. 


'arj^^e  association  of  merchants  or  pilgrims,  who  unite  for  mu- 
tual aid  and  ]irotection  to  themselves,  and  their  camels,  and 
goods.  The  transportation  of  goods  in  those  countries,  though 
slow,  is  cheap,  compared  with  European  prices.  The  aver- 
age weight  which  camels  are  made  to  carry  is  6001bs.  The 
Egyptian  caravans  travel  with  a  wide  front,  many  others  travel 
in  a  line.  The  halt  of  the  jiilgrim  caravans  to  Mecca,  is  by 
day,  and  they  travel  only  by  night.  There  are  many  of  these, 
even  from  Persia  and  Morocco.  The  dangers  of  the  desert 
are  such,  tluit  in  many  places  the  route  is  indicated  by  the 
bones  of  dead  camels.  The  caravans  are  under  the  direction 
of  a  chief,  though  from  their  discordant  materials  they  are, 
when  attacked,  tn  a  state  of  confusion,  each  individual  acting 
for  himself,  and  protecting  his  own  property.  The  predatory 
tribes  on  the  route  sometimes  plunder  the  whole  caravan,  and 
at  others  cut  off  parts  of  it.  At  the  halts  there  is  much  social 
intercourse  and  amusement,  the  merchants  or  others  visiting 
and  entertaining  each  other.  Caravans,  however,  since  the 
extension  of  navigation,  and  the  decline  of  the  "Mahomedan 
spirit,  have  been  much  curtailed,  both  in  magnitude  and  show. 
The  pace  of  the  camel  when  travelling  is  three  miles  an  hour; 
this  is  so  exact  that  distances  are  computed  by  time;  a  march 
of  six  hours  being  equivalent  to  18  miles." 

Marria<Te  is  reckoned  so  honorable  among  the  Arabs,  that 
a  woman  will  ralher  marry  a  poor  man,  or  become  a  second 
wife  to  one  already  married,  than  incur  the  obloquy  attached 
to  the  single  life ;  and  the  men  are  equally  disposed  to  take 
them,  because  their  wives,  instead  of  being  expensive,  are 
rather  profitable.  They  seldom,  however,  marry  more  than 
two  wives  ;  and  many  are  content  with  one.  The  Arab  women 
enjoy  more  liberty  than  in  other  Mahomedan  nations,  and 
have  great  power  in  their  families.  If  ill  used  by  their  hus- 
bands, they  have  a  right  to  demand  a  divorce.  Separations, 
however,  are  uncommon,  and  mostly  confined  to  cases  where 
the  husband,  from  inability  to  maintain  his  wives,  sends  them 
back  to  their  fr-iends;  after  which  they  are  at  liberty  to  marry 
agairL* 


7.   PERSIA. 

The  modern  Persians  are  descendants  of  those  tribes,  who, 
at  various  times,  have  overrun  the  country,  improved  by  the 
introduction  of  beautiful  females  from  Georgia,  Circassia,  and 
Mingrelia.  They  are  in  general  a  fine-looking  race — the  fore- 
head high,  the  nose  aquilme,  the  cheeks  full,  the  chin  large,  the 
countenance  generally  oval,  and  the  complexion  varying  from 

♦  New  Edinburgh  Encyclopedia. 


400  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

PERSIA. 

a  dark  olive  to  a  slight  tinge  of  yellow.  They  are  of  a  mid- 
dling stature,  robust,  and  active;  brave,  hosjiitable,  patient  in 
adversity,  affable  to  strangers,  and  highly  polisheti  in  their 
mannt-rs ;  but  they  p()ssf\ss  strong  passions,  and  are  capable 
of  acts  of  great  cruelty  when  under  the  inliuence  of  anger. 
Activity  and  indolence  are  singularly  combined  in  tht-  Persian 
character.  Passionately  fond  of  smoking,  these  people  will 
indulge  in  it  from  morning  to  night;  and  in  tiie  absence  of  pow- 
erful inducements  to  action,  they  seem  to  resign  themselves 
to  idleness;  sitting  in  one  posture  upon  their  heels,  with  their 
legs  bent  inider  them,  for  hours  together,  and  frecpiently  sleep- 
ing. Wliei).  however,  they  are  roused  from  this  lethargic  state 
by  urgent  necessity,  tlu>y  will  mount  their  horses  and  ride  day 
and  night,  without  intermission.  They  are  excellent  equestri- 
ans, being  taught  to  ride  from  their  infancy  ;  and  hunting  and 
hawking  are  their  favorite  amusements.* 

The  Persian  dresn  consists,  for  the  men,  of  a  shirt  of  silk, 
or  calico,  striped  with  blue,  which  is  seldom  changed  till 
worn  out;  a  vest  fitting  tight  to  the  body  as  far  as  the  hips, 
whence  it  descends  like  a  petticoat  as  low  as  the  ancle.s  ; 
under  this  they  have  drawers,  woollen  stockings,  and  boots; 
or  a  pair  of  very  wide  trousers  of  red  silk,  or  blue  cotton  ; 
and,  over  all,  a  long  robe  reaching  nearly  to  the  feet.  The 
latter  is  sometimes  trimmeii  with  fur,  and  sometimes  made  of 
gold  cloth,  or  brocade,  richly  ornamented  with  gold  lace.  By 
way  of  sash,  a  piece  of  chints,  or  flowered  mushn,  about  eight 
yards  lo.l^f,  i-s  worn  around  the  body,  and  in  the  folds,  which 
serve  for  pockets,  are  carried  a  knife,  a  jinrse.  pen.s  and  ink.  The 
dagger  is  also  deposited  in  this  sash,  ornamented  according 
to  the  ability  of  the  possessor ;  and  no  Persian  considers  him- 
self dressed  without  a  sword.  The  court  fli ess  is  distiuijuished 
from  the  oidinary  costume  by  green  slipp<'rs  with  high  heels, 
and  red  cloth  stockings.  The  dress  of  the  commonalty  con- 
sists generally  of  two  or  three  light  garments  reaching  only  to 
the  knee.  In  many  parts  of  the  country,  they  wear  a  sheep's 
skin,  with  the  wool  inwards.  Persians  of  all  degre(\s  keep 
their  heads  remarkably  warm  ;  wearing,  even  in  summer, 
black  fur  caps  faced  with  lamb's  skin,  so  fashioned  as  to  rise 
into  four  corners  at  the  top,  which  is  frequently  ten  or  twelve 
inches  high.  The  king  and  his  sons  are  distinguished  by 
having  a  shawl  wrapjted  round  this  black  cap — a  mark  of 
honor  which  is  also  extended  to  some  of  the  nobility,  and 
ministers  of  state. 

The  Persians  shave  the  whole  of  the  head,  except  a  tuft  of 
hair  which  they  l<>ave  on  the  crown,  and  a  lock  behind  each 
ear.  But  they  sutler  their  beards  to  grow  to  their  full  extent  ; 
and  generally  dye  them  quite  black,  by  an  unpleasant  and 
tedious  operation,  which  must  be  repeated  once  a  fortnight. 
■  The  costume  of  the  frmalrs.  in  the  summer  season,  consists 
of  a  bilk  or  muslin  under-garment,  a  pair  of  loose  velvet  trou- 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  40d 

HOUSES FOOD. 

sers,  and  a  vest.  The  head  is  covered  with  a  large  black  tur- 
ban, over  which  a  cashmere  shawl  is  gracefully  thrown,  to 
answer  the  purpose  of  a  veil.  In  cold  weather,  a  close-bodied 
velvet  robe,  reaching  to  the  knees,  fastened  in  front  with  large 
gold  buttons,  and  sometimes  ornamented  with  jewels,  is  worn 
over  the  vest.  Necklaces  are  in  general  use,  with  small  gold 
scent-boxes  appended  to  them  low  in  the  bosom.  Among 
other  ornaments  used  by  the  ladies,  is  a  gold  plate,  with  an 
Arabic  prayer  engraven  upon  it,  and  suspended  on  the  right 
cheek,  just  below'the  ear.  As  thick  and  dark  eyebrows  are 
esteemed  essential  to  beauty  in  Persia,  the  ladies  xlye  them 
,black  if  ■they  are  not  so  naturally.  They  also  rub  their  feet 
and  hands  Avith  pomatum  of  an  orange  tint ;  and  injure  theii' 
.natural  complexions  with  paint  and  varnishes.  They  are  ex- 
ceedingly neat  in  their  garments  and  houses  ;  indeed  the  fre- 
.quent  a'biutions  enjoined  by  their  reUgion,  and  rendered  agree- 
able by  the  heat  of  tlieir  climate,  prevents  them  from  being 
uDtherwise  than  cleanly.  ^ 

■  The  Persian  houses,  which  are  low  and  flat-roofed,  are  built 
of  mud  or  uiiburned  bricks,  and  stand,  each  in  a  court  encom- 
passed by  a  high  wall.  They  have  no  windows  towards  the 
^street;  and  the  windows  which  front  the  court  are  entirely 
open  on  that  side,  but  have  a  large  curtain  to  be  let  down  when 
not  in  use.  The  palaces  of  the  nobility  are  generally  divided 
into  several  courts,  the  centre  of  which  is  laid  out  in  par- 
terres, most  commonly  oi-namented  with  fountains. 

The  Persians  seldam  have  fires  in  their  apartments ;  but  in 
cold  weather  put  on  an  additional  robe,  or  pelisse.  They  do 
not  recline  on  cushions,  as  do  the  Turks,  nor  sit  like  them, 
cross-leiTged  ;  but  they  sit  on  their  lieels,  with  their  legs  bent 
under  them  like  a  camel,  on  a  thick  felt,  a  carpet,  or  a  mat.  In 
this  posture,  uneasy  in  the  extreme  to  those  who  ai-e  not  ac- 
customed to  it,  they  will  sit  for  hours  together. 

These  people  admit  but  little  variety  in  their  food:  they  rise 
Avith  the  sun,  and  having  taken  a  cup  of  cotfee,  some  fruit,  or 
tither  Ught  refresh ment,"they  enter  on  the'business  of  the  day, 
smoke  or  converse,  till  ten  or  eleven  o'clock,  when  they  take 
a  slight  repast  of  sweetmeats,  fruits,  and  dishes  composed 
mostly  of  milk.  They  then  retire  to  tlieliarem  till  about  three, 
when  they  renew  their  business  or  smolcing.  In  the  evening, 
they  take  their  principal  meal,  which  consists  of  animal  food 
anixed  with  rice,  and  boiled  down  to  rags,  so  as  to  render 
knives  and  forks  unnecessary.  With  the  same  hand  that  has 
just  torn  a  fowl  or  lamb  to  pieces,  or  grasped  an  omelet  swim- 
mins  in  oil,  a  melon  is  scooped  out,  and,  as  a  mark  of  espe- 
ciarfavor,  presented  by  a  superior  to  his  guest.  The  sofra, 
or  tablecloth,  is  spread  upon  the  floor,  and  the  company, 
Seated  as  usual  upon  their  heels  around  it,  bend  themselves 
down,  and  scoop  the  victuals  into  their  mouths  with  their  fin- 
34* 


402  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

PERSIA. 

gers  and  the  thumb  of  the  right  hand.  When  they  have  eaten 
enough  (and  tlieir  meals  are  very  soon  over)  they  sit  upright, 
with  tlie  ri^ht  hand  placed  in  a  certain  position  over  tlie  left 
arm,  till  water  is  brought  in,  and  every  one  washes  his  hand 
and  his  mouth.  The  sofra  consists  of  a  fiin' ciiints  cloth; 
but  from  a  superstitious  notion  that  changing  it  brir.gs  ill  luck, 
it  is  generally  covered  with  the  fragments  of  former  meals, 
and  emits  a  scent  very  ungrateful  to  the  olfactory  power.s  of 
fciiglishmen,  who  consider  a  clean  tablecloth  among  the 
necessary  comforts  of  life.* 

Of  all  the  hobiis  of  a  Persian,  the  most  common  is  that  of 
smoking.  Whether  he  is  with  liis  women,  or  in  tlie  company 
of  his  friends,  whether  he  is  going  abroad  or  to  court,  lie  is 
never  without  iiis  pipe.  The  Persian  pipe,  which  is  called  kat- 
liouii,  is  totallj''  dillritMit  from  ours.  It  is  shaped  like  a  bottle 
terminated  l)y  the  neck,  at  the  top  of  which  is  a  bowl  for  re- 
ceiving the  tobacco.  The  tube  is  attached  to  the  bottom  of  this 
bowl,  and  frequently  makes  several  windings  in  the  bottle. 
The  latter,  which  is  of  blown  glass,  has  a  curious  appearance 
to  a  stranger;  it  is  ornamented  in  the  inside  with  the  re]ire- 
.sentation  of  trees,  Howers,  &c.  A  handsome  kallioun  costs, 
we  are  told,  nearly  fifty  guineas.  To  use  this  pipe,  the  bottle 
is  filled  with  water,  and  the  tobacco  lighted.  Thi^  smoke, 
after  thus  passing  through  the  bottle,  aiiives  at  the  mouth,  cool 
and  di.sengaged  from  the  coarse  vapors. 

The  women  of  Persia,  like  those  of  all  Mahomedan  countries, 
receive  no  moral  education  whatever.  Wlien  they  have  learn- 
ed reading,  writing,  and  embroiilerj,  their  education  is  finish- 
ed ;  and  those  things  they  are  tauglit  either  by  fi'males  hired 
for  the  purpose,  or  at  the  schools,  which  they  frequent  till  they 
have  attained  such  an  age  as  not  to  be  jiermitted  to  go  abroad 
williout  a  veil.  Neither  dancing,  music,  nor  other  accomjilish- 
nieiits,  nor  reading,  nor  study,  ever  develop  or  heighten  their 
natural  graces,  or  enrich  tiieir  minds.  Living  shut  up  in  a 
harcrn,  visiting  and  being  visited  by  ntme  but  fenuiles,  society 
never  forms  their  manners;  the  ]iower  of  hiuiian  respect  op- 
poses no  barrier  tu  their. i>assions,  to  the  vii  es  of  theii-  hearts, 
and  to  the  extravagances  of  their  dispositions  :  the  intercourse 
wuh  women  jiervert.s  rather  than  purifies  their  morals.  The 
mother  exclusively  sujxM  intends  the  education  of  her  daugh- 
ter, and  f;iithfnl!y  transmits  to  her,  defects  which  were  not  cor- 
rected when  sIk'  was  herself  young:  virtue  and  modesty  are 
terms  which  she  never  utters  in  her  hearing,  for  they  are  terms 
as  unmeaning  to  the  one  as  t*)  the  other.  She  familiarizes  her 
witli  i)Ut  one  idra — that  she  is  one  djiy  to  Ijejong  to  an  abso- 
lute master,  whose  love  she  must  strive  to  acriuire,  not  by  jirac- 
tising  the  virtues  of  lier  sex  and  condition,  but  by  the  arts  of 
refined  co^iuetry,  which,  though  they  may  excite  passion,  are 

♦  Anpin's  Copmorama. 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  403 

FEMALE  EDUCATION — SUPERSTITIONS. 

an  antidote  to  true  conjugal  tenderness,  which  is  founded  on 
mutual  esteem  and  regard.  She  does  not  teach  her  how  to 
become  a  good  wife  and  mother,  or  inculcate  that  modesty, 
and  that  chaste  reserve  in  all  her  motions,  language,  and  ac- 
tions, which  adorn  beauty  and  embellish  plainness ;  but  she 
enjoins  her  not  to  go  abroad  without  mutUing  up  her  face  and 
her  whole  person ;  not  to  look  at  a  man,  nor  engage  in  any  in- 
trigues ;  jfj  however,  she  does  not  instruct  her  in  tlie  art  which 
she  has  herself  learned  by  experience,  of  bringing  them  to  a 
fortunate  conclusion. 

Thus  the  females  of  Persia  receive  no  other  than  a  physi- 
cal education,  the  care  of  their  morals  being  left  to  nature,  till 
the  moment  when  example  corrupts  them.  Hence  we  need 
not  be  surprised  at  the  unfavorable  character  given  of  them  by 
travellers. 

The  Persians  are  perhaps  the  mo?:t  su-perstitious  nation  in 
Asia.  Among  them,  the  remnants  of  ancient  superstitions  are 
not  confined  to  the  vulgar,  as  they  are  with  us :  even  the  pres- 
ent king  will  .not  leave  his  capital,  undertake  any  expedition, 
or  receive  nn  ambassador,  till  he  has  had  intimation  from  his 
astrologer  of  the  fortunate  hour  for  the  act.  Before  all  minor 
transactions,  the  people  in  general  take  what  they  call  a  bal  ; 
namely,  in  the  old  fashion  of  dipping  into  Virgil,  opening  the 
Bible,  the  Koran,  or  any  venerated  author,  and  governing  their 
actions  by  the  first  passage  on  which  their  eyes  chance  to  fall. 

Tliey  ])ut  great  faith  in  the  virtue  of  charms,  which  they  buy 
of  those  learned  in  the  stars,  and  bind  not  merely  about  their 
own  persons,  but  those  of  their  horses :  some  are  composed 
of  prayers,  sewed  up  in  morsels  of  linen,  in  various  shapes, 
such  as  lozenges,  circles,  and  triangles.  The  more  costly 
amulets  are  certain  sentences  from  the  Koran,  exquisitely  en- 
graved on  carnelian,  and  which  are  usually  worn  by  persons 
«f  rank,  round  the  neck  or  arms.  The  lower  orders  have  tal- 
ismans to  fivert  the  influence  of  evil  eyes,  curses,  and  the  like; 
in  short,  they  neither  look,  move,  nor  speak,  without  attention 
to  some  occult  fatality  or  other. 

The  Persians  are  too  much  addicted  to  eliquplte  and  cere- 
moiiy,  not  to  be  fond  of  visiting.  The  dependant  would  not,  on 
any  account,  allow  a  day  to  pass  without  paying  his  respects 
to  his  patron,  the  courtier  without  presenting  himself  before  the 
sovereign,  and  friends  without  mutually  visiting  one  another. 

The  ceremonies  and  compliments  differ  with  tlie  rank  of' 
tlie  visiter.  If  an  inferior  is  honored  with  a  visit  from  his 
superior,  he  does  not  sit  down  till  the  latter  is  seated,  nor  rise 
till  he  has  risen.  The  master  of  the  house  commonly  occu- 
pies the  upper  end  of  the  cushion  or  carpet;  but  if  he  wishes 
to  do  honor  to  the  stranger,  he  gives  Up  his  place  to  him,  or 
makes  him  take  a  seat  by  his  side. 

A  visit  between  persons  of  distinctiosn,  and  of  equal  rank, 
consists  of  three  acts,  in  the  first,  the  visiter  is  furnished  with 
a  kallioun  or  pipe,  the  smoke  of  which  is  cooled  by  water,  and 


404  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 


f'ERSIA. 


*  cup  of  very  strong  coffee  witliout  sugar.  In  the  second, 
another  kallioun  is  given  with  sweet  coffee,  so  called  because 
it  is  composed  of  rose  water  and  sugar.  A  fresh  kallioun^ 
sweetmeats  and  sherbet,  make  up  the  third  act. 

These  sweetmeats  are  generally  brought  on  silver,  plated, 
or  Japanned  trays,  adorned  with  painted  tiowers  or  othei 
ornaments:  they  usually  consist  of  sugar-ahnonds  and  pis- 
tachio-inits,  or  small  orange-flower  cakes.  The  Persians  are 
.passionately  fond  oi'  sweetmeats,  and  excel  in  the  art  of  mak- 
ing them. 

They  are  also  foixl  of  the  rhase  ;  it  is  an  exerci.se  to  which 
they  are  addicted  from  tlu'ir  youth,  and  in  which  they  exceJ. 
All  the  peopl(-  of  distinction  keep  lidcons,  sparrow-hawks,  ajwi 
other  birds  of  prej',  for  six>rting.  In  Chardin's  time  tlie  hunt- 
ing estal)lishment  of  the  sovereign  contained  eight  hun(li«-4 
of  those  birds.  Ujion  the  whol<\  die  Persians  make  but  little 
use  of  dogs  in  hunting,  considering  them  as  the  most  impure 
of  animals  ;  hence  they  employ  birds  in  their  stead. 

They  have  broug-ht  "their  hawks  to  a  great  degree  of  docil- 
ity, particularly  one  class  which  they  call  X\w  churkh^  and 
which  is  train«Ml  to  catch  antelopes.  It  is  hunted  with  in  t'lis 
maimer  : — When  a  herd  of  deer  is  discoven-d,  one  is  sepal  ated 
from  the  rest  by  the  dogs,  and  the  bird,  being  let  loose,  almost 
innnediafi'ly  pounces  upon  it,  flapping  its  wings  over  the  eves 
of  the  antelope.  The  animal  endeavors  to  rid  itself  of  the 
c/////7.7(,  by  beating  its  head  against  the  ground  ;  but  as  the 
bird  is  jK-rched  on  the  upper  part  of  tJie  head,  this  attemjit  ii? 
of  no  avail.  As  the  antelope  stops  the  instant  the  r/mi/Ji 
pounces  on  it,  the  dogs  s-oon  come  up  to  secure  their  prey. 
One  of  these  birds  Avill  kill  two,  sometimes  three  antelopes  iuii 
day.    This  manner  of  catching  deer  affords  much  amusement 

The  wild  ass  is  sometimes  hunted,  tiiougli  rarely,  on  account 
of  its  very  ureat  speed.  A\  heiic.  er  it  is,  horses  are  stationed 
in  places  where  it  is  most  likely  to  run  ;  and  by  continually 
•changing  liors(^,  the  hunter  sometimes  overtakes  this  surjiri- 
singly  fleet  animal. 

Tlie  Persians  delight  in  keeping  ficditintr  rams.  A  more 
bloody  or  cruel  conilict  can  scarcely  be  witnessed,  than  twn 
of  these  furious  animals  ongatring  each  other.  On  these  oc- 
casions, the  jiassions  of  the  Persians  are  worked  up  to  the 
highest  pitch  ;  and  it  olten  happens  that  a  (puiricl  among  tlw? 
men  succeeds  a  battle  l)eiween  the  beasts. 

The  horsi'  racen  of  the  I'ersians  are  very  different  from  ours. 
The  horses  start  at  the  distance  of  jierhajis  fifteen  miles,  and 
jiursue  a  direct  course  to  tlie  post.  I\o  care  is  taken  to  level 
thi' ground  ;  ajid  as  it  often  happens  that  more  than  twenty 
h«)rses  start  together,  there  are  frequent  accidents.  Purses  of 
gold  are  given  to  the  first,  second,  an<l  third  horses.  They 
Uikr  trreat  pains  in  training  their  horses,  which  they  do  for  a 
much  longer  time  than  is  practised  in  I'iiirope. 

As  to  the  manner  of  travelling  in  the  east,  it  is  widely  differ- 


Universal  traveller.  405 

TRAVELLING — COURTSUII'. 

ent  from  our  own.  In  Persia,  it  is  dangerous  to  travel  even  a 
small  distance  without  attendants,  or  an  escort.  In  longer 
journeys  it  is  common  to  join  a  company  of  travellers  who  are 
going  to  the  same  place.  Such  a  company  is  called  a  caravan. 
The  beasts  of  burden  are  camels,  horses,  and  mules.  The 
caravan  is  commanded  by  a  chief,  who  undertakes  to  furnish 
servants,  horses,  and  other  beasts  of  burden  during  the  journey, 
at  such  a  rate  as  may  be  agreed  on. 

The  caravan  marches  in  the  closest  order  possible.  When 
there  are  no  caiaoansaries  in  the  country  through  which  it  is 
travelling,  as  soon  as  it  reaches  its  resting  place,  the  chief 
points  out  to  each  individual  the  spot  where  he  is  to  deposite 
his  baggage  and  merchandise,  that  there  may  be  no  confusion. 
The  baggage  forms  a  semicircle,  the  centre  of  which  is  occu- 
pied by  the  provisions  and  beds.  This  place,  as  well  as  the 
encampment  of  each  traveller,  is  encompassed  with  a  haii' 
rope.  The  beasts  of  burden  are  all  stationed  facing  their  re- 
spective loads,  and  are  merely  tied  by  hair  ropes. 

The  chief  is  stirring  with  his  people  before  light,  to  superin- 
tend the  loading  of  the  goods,  so  that  the  caravan  may  start 
with  the  dawn,  that  is,  between  three  and  four  in  the  morning. 
A  bell  gives  the  signal  for  departure. 

The  mode  of  matrimonial  courtships  in  Persia  does  not  allow 
the  eyes  of  the  parties  to  direct  their  choice,  till  they  are  mu- 
tually pledged  to  each  other.  The  proposal  is  generally 
made  by  the  relations  of  the  youth,  through  an  elderly  female, 
and  if  accepted  by  the  relations  of  the  lady,  the  heads  of  the 
families  meet,  and  the  necessary  contracts  are  drawn  up.  On 
tlie  mornizig  of  the  day  fixed  for  the  wedding,  the  lover  sends 
a  train  of  mules  laden  with  the  promised  gifts  for  his  bride,  to 
the  house  of  her  parents  ;  the  whole  being  attended  by  numer- 
ous servants,  and  preceded  by  music  and  drums.  Besides 
the  presents  for  the  lady,  the  procession  carries  all  sorts  of 
costly  viands  on  large  silver  trays,  ready  prepared  to  be  im- 
mediately spread  before  the  inmates  of  the  house.  The  whole 
of  the  day  is  spent  in  feasting,  and  jollity;  towards  evening, 
the  damsel  makes  her  appearance,  enveloped  in  a  long  veil  of 
scarlet  or  crimson  silk,  and  being  placed  on  a  horse  or  mule 
splendidly  caparisoned,  is  conducted  to  the  habitation  of  her 
affianced  husband  by  all  her  relations,  marching  in  regular 
order  to  the  sound  of  the  same  clamorous  band  which  had 
escorted  the  presents.  When  alighted  at  the  bridegroom's 
door,  the  lady  is  led  to  her  future  apartments  within  the  house, 
accompanied  by  her  female  relations  and  waiting  maids. 
Feasting  and  rejoicing  now  commence,  and  a  supper  feast 
concludes  the  entertainment.* 

The  Persians  inter  their  dead  with  the  same  ceremonies 
which  are  practised  by  other  Mahomedan  nations.  Mourning 
lasts  forty  days.  Garments  of  a  brown  or  pale  color  are 
worn  during  that  season. 

*  New  Edinburgh  Encyclopedia. 


406  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 


CHINA. 


8.  CHINA. 

The  nalural  color  nf  I  he  Chinesp,  is  tli.it  intormediato  hue. 
betwoon  a  (iiir  and  dark  complexion,  calliMl  a  lumn-ltr ;  and 
tliosc  wlio  are  exposed  to  the  infiuence  (>f  tlie  cnniati%  (vspe- 
cially  the  women  who  labor  in  the  fields,  have  a  deeper  color, 
and  coarser  features.  There  is  said  to  oe  scarcely  any  appa- 
rent physical  difftM-ence  betwixt  th(>  ChiiK^se  and  the  Tartars, 
f'xce|)t  that  the  former  are  lather  taller  in  stature,  and  more 
slender  in  form  than  the  latter,  who  are  in  general  short,  thick, 
and  r()bu.?t.  The  Tartar  is  also  more  active,  iiardy,  and  ablcs 
to  endur<"  fatiirne,  possessed  of  greater  fiiinness  of  character, 
and  displa^'inir  .'.'■reater  fortitude  under  pain.  In  the  coimte- 
nance  of  bt)th,  the  small  eye,  elliptical  at  the  end  nearest  to 
the  nose,  is  a  predominant  feature;  and  both,  also,  have  hitrh 
cheek  bones,  and  pointed  chins,  which,  with  the  mode  of 
bhavincr  their  hair,  irives  to  the  hea<l  the  apjiearance  of  an 
inverted  cone.  They  have  small  Hat  noses,  and  extremely 
large  ears. 

Their  fitrure  is  generally  lars:e  and  square;  and  nothing  is 
conceived  moi'e  becoming  and  reputat)l(\  than  a  corpulent  habit 
of  boily.  Among  the  women,  there  are  tl'w  that  can  be  called 
beauties;  and  the  universal  features  are  a  short  rounded  nose, 
generally  a  little  flattened,  lips  rather  thick,  a  small  and  dark 
brown  eye,  with  jet  black  hair.  They  are  by  no  means  a 
cleanly  people,  either  in  their  person  or  dri^ss.  They  seldom 
change  their  undergarments  for  the  purp<)S(>of  washing  them  ; 
never  employ  the  bath,  either  cold  or  warm  ;  make  n«)  use  of 
soap,  and  scarcely  ever  wash  their  bodies;  and  even  the  inte- 
rior wrappers  of  tli(>  ladies'  feet  are  allowed  to  remain  as  long 
as  they  will  hold  together.  They  carry  no  pocket  handker- 
chiefs. Tliey  sleep  at  night  hiidiilecl  up  under  a  coverlet, 
nearly  in  the  same  clothes  which  they  wear  through  the  day  ; 
a  circumstance  which,  totrether  with  their  general  iiltluness.  is 
often  jiroductive  of  vermm. 

fn  Iheir  vdlnnil  disjuisitinn  the  Chinese  are  a  mild,  cheerful, 
contented,  and  obligiiiir  |ief)ple.  In  their  exterior  deportment, 
they  are  uncoiumonly  decent,  an<i  in  their  manners  extremely 
prepossessing.  They  seldom  use  abu.sive  language  ;  and  if  at 
any  time  they  rpiarrel,  it  seldom  |)roceeds  farther  than  the  tear- 
ing of  each  other's  clothes,  or  the  plucking  out  of  each  other's 
hair.  They  are  the  most  timid  jjeople  on  i-artli,  entirely  de- 
void of  perscuial  courage  and  presence  of  mind  in  cases  of 
danirer.and  capableof  being  teiritied  almost  into  convulsions 
by  the  drawing  of  swords,  or  the  presenting  of  a  pistol.  In 
pf)iiit  of  imniil  character,  they  are  extremely  debaserl.  In 
their  conversation,  they  manifest  great  apparent  simplicity 
and  openness  ;  yet  these  are  attended  with  a  degree  of  art  and 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  407 

CONDITION  OF  FEMALES. 


cunning,  of  which  an  Europeaji  has  no  conception.  There  is 
always"  a  studied  complacence  bordering  upon  servility,  a 
ready  acquiescence  upon  every  proposal,  and  an  artful  evasion 
of  inconvenient  promises,  by  the  most  sly  pretences  and  plaus- 
ible objections.  They  have  no  regard  for  truth  ;  but  will  as- 
sert or  deny  without  hesitation  whatever  chances  to  suit  the 
present  purpose.  The  practice  of  lying  and  cheating  is  per- 
haps more  prevalent  in  China,  than  in  any  otlier  country  on 
the  globe.  There  is  no  principle  of  honor,  or  feeling  of  self- 
respect  in  Cl)ina  ;  and  the  fear  of  detection,  or  rather  of  the 
pain  of  punishment  consequent  upon  detection,  is  the  great 
restraining  principle  and  imjielling  motive  both  of  high  and 
low.  A  Chinese  prince,  or  powerful  mandarin,  will  commit 
extortion  or  oppression,  whenever  he  can  do  it  with  impunity, 
and  almost  regard  it  as  a  matter  of  right  attached  to  his  sta- 
tion. A  Chhiese  trader,  or  dealer  of  any  description,  will 
cheat  and  defraud  whenever  it  is  in  his  power,  and  even  pique 
himself  ujiou  his  skill  in  over-reaching,  as  a  proof  of  his  ad- 
dress, and  a  part  of  his  profession.  A  Chinese  peasant  will 
pilfer  and  steal  whatever  is  witliin  his  reach,  whenever  he  can 
hope  to  escape  detection ;  and  the  whole  nation  may  be  af- 
firmed to  have  almost  nothing  in  view,  but  their  own  self  in- 
terest and  security.  They  are  said  to  be  extremely  delicient 
in  conuuon  humanity  and  fellow-feeling.  Of  the  inditference 
with  which  they  can  look  upon  human  beings  in  situations  of 
suffering  and  danger,  without  making  the  smallest  attempt  to 
afford  relief,  Mr.  Barrow  relates  the  following  specimen,  which 
occurred  during  the  ))rogress  of  the  British  embassy  down  the 
Great  Canal :  "'  Several  persons,  w  ho  had  crowded  to  the 
brink  ol'  the  canal,  h<*d  posted  themselves  upon  the  high  pro- 
jecting stern  of  an  old  vessel,  which  broke  down  with  their 
weight,  and  precipitated  the  whole  group  into  the  water,  at 
the  moment  when  the  yachts  of  the  embassy  were  passing. 
Though  numbers  of  boats  were  sailing  about  the  place,  not 
one  was  observed  to  e^o  to  the  assistance  of  the  drowning 
creatures  ;  but  seemed  even  not  to  know  that  such  an  accident 
had  happened,  nor  to  pay  the  least  attention  to  the  shrieks  of 
the  boys,  who  w-ere  floating  around  upon  pieces  of  the  wreck." 

The  condition  of  the  female  sex  in  China,  is  said  to  be  more 
degraded  than  among  the  Greeks  in  ancient  times,  or  the  Eu- 
ropean nations  during  the  dark  ages.  V\^omeu  are  permitted, 
without  incurring  the  charge  of  impropriety,  to  visit  the  tem- 
ples on  certain  occasions,  but  ladies  of  distinction  are  seldom 
seen  in  public  streets,  unless  conveyed  in  a  close  chair;  and 
those  who  are  unable  to  command  such  a  vehicle,  are  contented 
to  be  moved  about  in  a  covered  wheelbarrow.  The  lowest 
classes  go  abroad  with  greater  freedom.  These  are  often 
seen  with  an  infant  at  their  back,  toiling  at  the  hardest  tasks, 
while  their  husbands  are  sitting  at  their  ease,  or  pursuing  some 
amusement.     They  even  perform  the  office  of  beasts  of  bur- 


403  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

CHINA. 

den.  and  ar(^  at  tinios  employed  in  dratr.uiii'^  tlio  ploutrh  or  llie 
Jianctw,  wliicli  their  lazy  lu'ipniatr  holds  with  one  hand,  wliile 
lie  casts  the  sred  into  \Uo  ground  witli  the  other.  Even  in 
tlieir  state  of  domestic  imi>rovenieiit,  tliey  possess  no  privileges 
or  induls^ences,  and  are  not  permitted  to  sit  at  tlie  same  table, 
or  in  the  same  a|)artu)i'nt  witii  their  husbands.  The  \viv«\s  of 
tradesmen  and  mechanics  generally  employ  themselves  in 
weaving  and  embroidering  silks,  or  in  painting  upon  their 
gauze  the  figures  of  insects,  birds,  and  liowers.  But,  in  the 
higher  ranks,  it  is  accounted  a  degratiing  office  to  handle  the 
neefUe  or  the  pencil  ;  and  the  amount  of  their  education  con^ 
sists  in  a  little  music  and  dancing.  Utterly  unqualilied,  there- 
fore, to  jnnsue  any  mental  or  improving  occupation,  they  em- 
ploy much  of  their  titne  in  listening  to  juggliM's  or  fortune 
tellers,  and  generally  have  recourse  to  the  tobacco-|»ipe  as  the 
chief  exjiedient  for  beguiling  their  tedious  hours.  The  most 
remarkable  circumstance  respecting  the  women  of  China,  is 
the  custom  of  compressing  their  feet  from  their  infancy,  push- 
ing forward  the  heel  till  it  be  entirely  obliterated,  and  conlining 
the  toes  with  bandages  beneath  the  sol(%  till  they  actually  grow 
into  the  foot,  of  which  they  become,  as  it  were,  a  part.  The 
large  toe  is  left  free,  and  preserves  its  natural  si/.(^  ;  but  still 
the  foot  makes  scarcelj^  any  ail'lition  to  its  growth,  except  a 
kind  of  swelling  abov(^  the  instep  n(Mr  to  the  ankle  bone  ;  and 
the  whole  is  generally  so  very  diminutive,  as  to  enter  into  u 
shoe  of  four  inches  in  length,  and  an  inch  and  a  half  in 
br<'adth.  Tliis  ])ractice  ]irevails  among  all  classes  in  China  ; 
and  the  sniallness  of  the  foot  is  reckoned  the  most  «'ssential 
point  in  female  beauty,  without  which,  indeed,  they  wonid  be 
looked  upon  as  utterly  despicable.  The  oiigin  of  this  strange 
and  unnatural  custom  is  wholly  unknown  ;  and  is  conjectuicd 
to  have  been  only  ado|)ted  during  tlx-  lapse  of  a  fe\vct-nturi(\s, 
as  it  is  not  nctticed  in  tlu^  i-ej)orts  of  thcM-arliest  travellers  int(» 
China.  It  has  been  attributed  to  the  jealousy  of  the  men,  as 
a  method  of  keeping  tin-  females  nuire  at  home;  and  is  con- 
ceived to  have  l)een  afterwards  continued  by  iIk;  hulies  them- 
selves, as  a  maik  of  superior  station. 

7V(/'  (/nnlili/  uii'l  rnlor  <if  f/ie  C'/iiiifsi'  drrss.  is  fixed  by  law, 
according  to  the  rank  and  situaticm  in  Wfi'  of  the  wearer.  The 
royal  family  alon<'  are  allowed  to  wear  yellow:  on  days  of 
ceremony,  certain  mandarins  are  permitted  to  appear  in  red 
satin,  but  at  other  times  black,  blue,  or  violet  are  the  colors 
prescril)ed  for  them.  The  common  people  are  allowed  to 
w(!ar  only  blue  or  black  cotton.  White  is  the  distinguishing 
color  for  mourning;  which  a  son  has  no  right  to  wear  whilst 
his  fither  and  mother  are  living  ;  but  he  can  we.-ir  no  f)ther  for 
thre(>  years  after  their  d(\ith  ;  and  ever  after  his  cloth'-s  must 
be  of  one  color.  The  men's  caps  are  shaped  like  bells  ;  and 
the  higher  classes  ornament  them  with  jewels.  The  rest  of 
the  attire  consists  of  a  shirt,  under  which  a  silk  net  is  worn,  to 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  409 

COSTUME — MODE  OP  LIVING. 

prevent  its  adhesion  to  the  skin ;  over  the  shirt  is  a  vest,  with 
sleeves  very  wide  towards  the  shoulders,  but  narrowing  as  they 
approach  the  waist,  where  they  terminate  in  a  horseshoe,  and 
cover  the  hands,  leaving  only  the  ends  of  the  fingers  visible. 
From  a  large  silken  sash,  which  is  worn  about  the  waist,  is 
suspended  a  sheath,  with  a  kind  of  knife,  and  two  small 
sticks,  which  serve  as  forks  at  meal-time.  Under  the  vest,  the 
Chinese  wear  loose  drawers,  or  trousers,  suited  to  the  sea- 
son ;  in  summer  they  are  made  of  linen ;  in  winter,  of  satin, 
lined  with  fur.  Over  all,  they  wear  a  kind  of  surtout  with 
wide  sleeves.  In  warm  weather  they  go  with  their  necks 
bare ;  but  in  winter,  they  have  a  collar  joined  to  the  vest,  of 
silk,  sable,  or  fox  skin.  Clumsy  boots  of  satin,  silk,  or  cotton, 
are  universally  worn  abroad ;  but  at  home  they  are  exchanged 
for  slippers. 

The  female  costume,  for  the  higher  orders,  consists  of  a  silk 
waistcoat  and  drawers,  which  in  winter  time  are  lined  with  fur; 
over  these  is  a  long  robe  of  satin,  very  close  at  top,  and 
gracefully  gathered  around  the  waist  by  a  sash.  The  several 
parts  of  the  dress  are  of  different  colors,  but  a  change  of 
fashion  is  unknown.  The  head  dress  consists  in  an  arrange- 
ment of  the  curls,  which  are  interspersed  with  small  tufts  of 
flowers,  or  gold  and  silver  ornaments.  Young  ladies  also 
wear  a  kind  of  bonnet,  covered  with  stuff  or  silk,  and  adorned 
with  pearls,  diamonds,  and  other  costly  decorations. 

7%e  mode  of  living  among  the  lower  orders  in  China  is  mise-^ 
rable  in  the  extreme.  Two  or  three  jars,  a  few  basins  of 
coarse  earthen  ware,  a  large  iron  pot,  a  frying  pan,  and  a 
portable  stove,  are  the  chief  articles  of  furniture  in  their  pos- 
session. They  neither  use  tables  nor  chairs,  but  at  meals  all 
the  family  sit  upon  their  heels  round  the  large  pot,  with  a  ba- 
sin in  every  one's  hand.  They  take  the  rice  from  the  pot  with 
a  spoon,  and  put  it  into  the  basin,  which  they  hold  in  their  left 
hand  close  to  their  mouths  ;  and  then,  with  two  slender  sticks 
or  porcupine  quills,  between  the  two  first  fingers  of  the  rights 
hand,  they  throw  the  food  with  great  expedition  into  their 
mouths.  Their  food  consist  chieliy  of  boiled  rice,  millet,  or 
some  other  grains,  with  the  addition  of  onions,  or  garlic,  or 
some  other  vegetable,  especially  the  Pe-tsai,  a  kind  of  insipid 
cabbage  or  beet,  fried  in  oil,  which  is  most  esteemed  when  in  a 
rancid  state  ;  and  sometimes  they  season  their  food  with  a 
wretched  kind  of  ragout,  made  of  shrimps,  pickled  in  brine. 
They  have  little  milk,  no  butter,  cheese,  or  bread;  and,  unless 
in  those  places  where  fish  abounds,  a  morsel  of  pork  is  the 
only  animal  food  which  the  poor  can  afford  to  taste  as  a  rel- 
ish to  their  rice.  They  are  little  scrupulous,  however,  as  to 
the  articles  of  their  diet ;  and  rats,  frogs,  worms,  and  dogs, 
are  all  excellent  food  to  a  Chinese.  Rice,  however,  is  their  great 
staff  of  life,  and  its  name,  fan^  occurs  in  almost  every  expres- 
sion which  relates  to  food.  A  meal  is  named  tche-fan,  to  eat 
35 


410  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

CHINA. 

rice;  brenkfast  is  called  tsao-fan,  or  morning  rice  ;  and  sup- 
per oiian-fan,  or  evening  rice. 

Tlie  diet  of  the  wealthy  in  China  is  as  plentiful  and  sumjitu- 
ous  as  that  of  the  lower  classes  is  poor  and  meager.  The  sub- 
stantial articles  of  their  ordinaiy  meals,  are  rice,  pulse,  pork, 
mutton,  poultrj',  and  fish.  Thej-  seldt>m  use  be<>f,  which  is  said, 
however,  to  be  excellent  at  Wainpoo ;  and  mutton  also  is  good, 
but  abounds  only  in  the  northern  provinces.  Ducks  and  game 
are  in  daily  use ;  but  the  flesh  of  young  pigs,  which  is  said  to 
be  extremely  light  and  wholesome  in  China,  is  the  most  com- 
mon species  of  animal  food  at  the  tables  of  the  higher  orders. 
The  Tartars  make  regular  use  of  ass-fiesh,  as  well  as  of  horse- 
flesh, which  is  said  to  be  sold  at  a  higher  rate  in  Canton  tlian 
young  pork.  The  flesh  of  the  hare  and  of  the  stag  is  much 
used  in  Pekin  ;  and  the  most  esteemed  part  of  the  latter  animal 
is  the  tail,  which  is  reserved  for  the  table  of  the  emperor,  and 
which  sometimes  sells  for  thirty  or  forty  taels.  It  is  said  to 
have  the  taste  of  rancid  tallow.  Tlie  wealthy  Chinese  seek 
after  the  most  nourishing  and  invigorating  diet  with  great 
avidity,  and  at  whatever  price.  The  greatest  delicacies  are 
the  most  gelatinous  substances,  the  paws  of  the  bear,  the  fins 
of  the  shark,  the  sinewy  parts  of  the  stag  and  other  animals, 
the  n<\sts  of  a  particular  species  of  swallow,  brought  chi(>fly 
from  Cambodia,  and  a  kind  of  fucus,  or  sea-plant.  Of  this 
last,  they  make  a  very  nourishing  and  refreshing  jelly,  which 
is  mixed  with  sugar  and  orange  juice.  Their  bread  is  made 
without  yeast  into  small  cakes,  and  is  very  light  and  white, 
but  seldom  sufficiently  baked.  They  use  a  variety  of  vegeta- 
ble substances  in  the  form  of  pickles,  particularly  pe-tsai, 
already  mentioned,  onion.s,  ginger,  and  the  young  shoots  of 
bamboo.  They  have  a  number  of  fruits  also  preserved  by 
sugar,  especially  a  jtreparation  from  tin-  flour  of  beans,  which 
is  used  sometimes  in  a  licpiid,  and  sdint-tin^rs  in  a  solid  form, 
and  which  is  represented  as  remarkably  insipid.  They  are 
very  fond  of  eating  their  fruit  after  it  has  been  cooled  upon 
ice;  and  this  luxury  is  so  abundantly  collected  in  the  city  of 
Pekin,  that  even  the  poorer  classes  are  able  to  procure  it 
Their  cookery  is  said  to  be  sufficiently  good,  their  soups  and 
vermicelli  particularly  excellent,  and  their  pastry,  made  froni> 
the  flour  of  buckwheat,  unusually  light,  and  as  white  as  snow. 
Their  dishes  are  chiefly  in  the  form  of  stews  offish,  fowls,  and 
meat,  sometimes  separately,  and  sometimes  promiscuously, 
mixed  with  various  vegetables  and  sauces  ;  and  their  drink  at 
table  is  eith(T  tea,  or  an  ardent  spirit  distilled  from  millet  or 
rice,  which  the)-  always  drink  in  a  hot  state,  and  wliich  is  said 
to  resemble  burnt  brandy.  They  eat  very  plentifully,  and 
rather  voraciously,  at  meals  ;  and  throughout  the  day  are  con- 
stantly eating  pastry  and  fruits,  sijiiiing  spirituous  liquors, 
smoking  tobacco,  or  chewing  betel,  and  arreca  nut. 

The  Chinese  have  few  social  meetings  among  themselves; 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  411 


ENTERTAINMENTS — GAMING. 


and  even  the  young  people  never  assemble  together  for  the 
purpose  of  athletic  exercises,  or  exhilarating  amusements. 
To  play  at  games  of  chance  is  the  chief  object  of  an  occa- 
sional company ;  and  a  kettle  of  rice,  a  cup  of  tea,  or  a  pipe 
of  tobacco,  forms  the  only  entertainment  among  the  great 
body  of  the  people.  The  higher  classes  give  feasts  and  enter- 
tainments on  particular  occasions  ;  but,  in  these,  nothing  ap- 
proaching to  conviviality  or  cheerflilness  appears;  and  almost 
every  action,  motion,  or  look,  is  regulated  by  the  coldest 
forms  of  ceremony.  The  guests  do  not  assemble  around  the 
same  table  and  partake  of  the  same  dishes  ;  but  a  number  of 
small  tables  are  arranged  in  a  line,  each  of  which  often  accom- 
modates only  one  person,  generally  two,  and  rarely  more  than 
three.  This  division  of  the  company  into  small  parties,  does 
not  produce  any  greater  freedom  in  eating,  drinking,  or  con- 
versing ;  but  every  one  must  wait  for  a  particular  signal  or 
ceremony,  at  every  drop  or  morsel  w^hich  he  puts  into  his 
mouth.  All  eyes  are  constantly  directed  to  the  master  of  the 
feast,  to  observe  his  motions,  and  to  eat  or  drink  after  his  exam- 
ple. The  repast  begins  with  drinking  to  the  health  of  the  host ; 
and  the  polite  manner  of  paying  this  compliment  is  to  lift  the 
cup  in  both  hands  as  high  as  the  forehead,  after  lowering  it 
again  to  carry  it  to  the  mouth,  and  after  drinking  deliberately 
to  turn  the  cup  downwards,  as  a  token  of  its  being  emptied. 
Every  one's  portion  of  the  different  dishes  is  measured  out 
according  to  his  rank,  and  placed  on  the  table  before  him ; 
and  whatever  remains  after  he  has  eaten,  as  weU  as  the  portion 
of  any  one  who  has  been  prevented  from  attending,  is  sent  in 
procession  to  his  house.  Several  changes  of  plates  and  dishes 
take  place,  and  two  or  three  cups  of  wine  or  tea  are  drunk 
during  the  repast ;  and  all  the  guests  rise  for  a  little,  before  the 
dessert  is  served  up,  when  each  resumes  his  place.  In  tWs 
manner,  four  or  five  hours  are  commonly  employed,  during 
which  period  a  play  or  a  dance  is  sometimes  exhibited  for  the 
amusement  of  the  company.  Upon  leaving  the  house,  every 
one  makes  a  small  present  in  money  to  the  domestics,  and 
next  day  sends  a  note  of  thanks  to  the  person  who  gave  the 
entertainment. 

The  Chinese  of  all  ranks  are  passionately  fond  of  gaming; 
and  whenever  they  come  together,  whatever  be  the  occasion, 
they  seldom  separate  without  a  trial  of  their  good  fortune.  For 
such  opportunities  a  Chinese  is  always  provided  with  a  pack 
of  cards,  or  a  pair  of  dice  in  his  pockets.  They  play  also  at 
domino,  and  a  species  of  draughts,  in  which  there  are  360 
squares,  with  a  number  of  men  on  each  side ;  and  in  which 
the  game  consists  in  shutting  up  the  adversary,  by  occupying 
the  greater  part  of  the  spaces.  Contrary  to  the  assertion  of 
the  French  missionaries,  the  spirit  of  gaming,  especially  at 
games  of  chance,  is  so  prevalent,  that  almost  every  by-corner 
in  the  streets  is  occupied  by  a  group  of  gamblers ;  who  often 


412  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

CHINA. 

continue  whole  days  at  play,  and  sometimes  carry  their  infatu- 
ation to  such  a  height,  as  to  stake  their  wives  and  children 
upon  a  throw  of  the  dice.  The  iiigher  classes  are  passion 
ately  addicted  to  the  barbarous  amusement  of  cock-Hghting, 
or  rather  quail-fighting;  and  have  even  employed  for  their 
sport  in  a  similar  manner,  a  species  of  locusts,  which  fiijht  with 
such  ferocity,  as  seldom  to  quit  their  hold  of  each  other  with- 
out bringing  away  a  limb  in  their  gripe.  These  little  insects 
are  fed  with  great  care,  each  in  a  separate  bamboo  cage;  and 
it  is  said,  that,  during  the  summer  months,  s<;arcely  a  boy  is 
to  be  seen  without  his  cage  and  grasshoppers.  Dancing  is 
rather  a  spectacle  or  pantomime  in  China,  than  an  exercise  of 
individuals  for  their  own  amusement;  and  consists  merely  in 
a  set  of  march("s  and  evolutions,  sufficiently  whimsical  and 
wearisome.  They  have  frequently  j)lays  represented,  even  at 
their  private  entertainments;  and  a  stage  is  prepared  in  an 
instant,  with  merely  a  table  and  a  few  chairs  placed  in  front  of 
a  large  hanging,  in  which  are  two  openings  for  the  passage  of 
the  actors.  Tlie  mandarins  have  generally  rooms  for  the 
purpose ;  and  the  peoi)le  often  fit  up  parts  of  the  pagods  as 
theatres,  or  erect  them  across  the  streets,  from  one  corner 
house  to  the  other,  where  the  multitude  spend  whole  days  in 
witnessing  the  exhibitions. 

Tho  laics  of  Cliina  are  particularly  nererc,  with  respect  to 
all  offences  committed  against  the  sovereign;  and  his  life  and 
authority  are  guarded  by  the  most  minute  and  cautious  regu- 
lations. Persons  convicted  of  treasonable  practices,  are  to  be 
put  to  death  by  slow  and  painful  tortures  ;  all  their  male  rela- 
tions, in  the  first  degree,  indiscriminately  beheaded,  their  fe- 
male relations  sold  into  slavery,  and  all  their  connexions, 
residing  within  tlicir  housi-hold,  n-lcntlfs.sly  put  to  deatli.  To 
intrude  even  into  the  liiie  of  the  imperial  retinue,  while  the 
emperor  is  travelling,  or  to  enter  any  of  the  apartments  in  the 
palace,  actually  occ  ii|)ied  by  himself  or  his  family,  is  punish- 
able with  death.  Nay,  to  walk  or  ride  upon  the  road  and 
bridges  along  which  the  emju-ror  is  to  pass,  exposes  the  of- 
fender to  severe  punishment.  All  the  workmen  emploj'ed 
about  the  grounds  and  buildings  in  the  palace,  have  their 
names  ins«>rted  in  a  list,  as  they  go  in  and  come  out ;  are  prrv 
vided  with  passf)orts  as  they  enti-r  the  gates,  which  they  must 
deliver  back  at  their  return;  and  regularly  counted,  as  they 
pass  and  repass  ;  and  if  any  one  remains  behind,  he  is  sub- 
ject to  a  capital  |lunis^ment.  If  the  emperor's  phy.';ician  com- 
pound anymediciiu-  for  the  use  of  the  sovereism,  in  a  manner 
which  is  not  sanctioned  by  established  us.'ige,  he  is  subject  to 
the  punishment  of  100  blows.  If  any  dirt  is  found  in  his  ma- 
jesty's food,  the  cook  is  condemn''d  to  receive  SO  blows  ;  if  he 
sends  up  any  flish,  which  he  has  not  pn-vionsly  tasted,  he  re- 
ceives ."io  blows ;  if  he  has  mixed  any  unusual  ingredient  in 
the  fo  }d,  he  is  liable  to  JOO  blows,  and  is  compelled  to  swallow 


'  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  413 

PUNISHMENTS. 

the  article  himself.  The  life  of  man  is  held  peculiarly  sacred ; 
and  except  in  the  case  of  exposing  infants,  murder  is  never 
overlooked.  Murder  by  design  is  punished  by  beheading.  Ad- 
ministering poison  is  a  capital  crime,  though  the  do;se  should 
not  occasion  death.  Killing  in  an  affray  is  also  punished  with 
death.  Homicide,  or  even  wounding  by  accident,  is  still  pun- 
ishable with  death ;  but  the  offender  may  in  this  case  redeem 
himself  from  the  capital  part  of  the  sentence,  by  paying  a  fine 
to  the  relations  of  the  sufferer,  to  defray  the  expense  of  his 
funeral.  The  mere  attempt  or  design  to  commit  parricide  is 
punished  by  beheading;  and  the  actual  perpetration  of  this 
■crime,  by  death  with  torture.  A  practitioner  In  medicine,  per- 
foi'ming  any  operation,  or  administering  any  medicines,  in  a 
manner  contrary  to  the  established  rules  and  practice,  and 
thereby  occasioning  the  death  of  his  patient,  is  considered  as 
guilty  of  homicide ;  but  if,  upon  examination,  it  appears  to  have 
been  simply  an  error,  he  may  redeem  liis  life  by  a  fine,  upon 
condition  that  he  quit  his  profession  forever.  To  strike  a  father, 
mother,  grandfather,  or  grandmother,  is  punishable  by  behead- 
ing; and  should  a  wife  strike  her  husband's  relations  in  any 
of  these  degrees,  she  is  punished  by  three  degrees  more  se- 
verely than  for  a  common  assault ;  if  she  maim  him,  she  is 
put  to  death ;  and  if  he  die  in  consequence,  she  is  executed 
by  torture. 

The  punishments  injiicted  by  law  in  China,  are  various,  ac- 
cording to  the  nature  of  the  offence.  We  shall  notice  but  two. 
1.  The  bastinade,  which  is  inflicted  by  the  pam-tse,  or  bamboo. 
This  instrument  is  a  lath  of  bamboo,  about  five  or  six  feet  in 
length,  and  four  inches  in  breadth  at  the  end,  which  is  applied 
to  the  offender,  rounded  at  the  sides,  and  polished  at  the  ex- 
tremity which  is  held  in  the  hand  of  the  executioner.  It  is 
generally  applied  in  a  severe  and  cruel  manner,  and  it  is  sel- 
dom that  a  delinquent  survives  after  receiving  fifty  blows. 
This  instrument  is  in  constant  application,  and  is  inflicted  for 
tlie  smallest  offence.  The  more  ordinary  chastisements  are 
not  attended  with  disgrace,  and  are  considered  merely  as  a 
slight  paternal  correction.  It  is  said  to  be  frequently  inflicted 
in  this  view,  by  the  emperor  himself,  upon  his  courtiers  and 
prime  ministers,  without  their  forfeiting  his  favor,  or  losing 
their  respectability  with  the  nation ;  and  one  officer  may  ap- 
ply it  to  another  of  an  inferior  order,  in  a  very  siunmary 
manner,  upon  his  failing  in  any  duty,  or  even  neglecting  to 
salute  his  superior  with  proper  respect.  When  it  is  inflicted 
in  a  court  of  justice,  the  presiding  mandarin  takes  a  small 
stick,  about  six  inches  in  length,  and  one  in  breadth,  out  of  a 
bag  placed  before  him,  and  throws  it  upon  the  ground.  The 
culprit  is  instantly  seized  by  the  attendants,  and  stretched  upon 
his  face  on  the  earth,  his  clothes  pulled  down  to  his  heels,  and 
five  smart  blows  applied  to  his  posterior ;  and,  for  every 
stick  the  mandaj'in  throws  from  his  bag,  five  additional  blows 
35* 


414  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

CHINA. 

are  inflicted.  The  offender  must  then  throw  himself  upon  his 
knees  before  the  judfre,  incline  his  body  to  th{>  trround,  and 
give  him  tlianks  for  the  care  which  he  takes  of  his  morals. 
This  is  affirmed  to  be  done  even  by  the  higher  officers  to 
their  superiors.  When  women  are  subjected  to  this  punish- 
ment, tliey  are  permitted  to  wear  an  upper  and  under  tjar- 
ment,  except  in  cases  of.  achiltery,  when  they  are  allowed  only 
the  under  trarment.  It  is  said,  that  a  Chinese,  wlu-n  undergo- 
ing tiie  bamboo,  cries  out  in  a  most  piteous  manner,  and 
mnkes  his  acknowledgments  afterwards  with  the  utmost  hu- 
miliation; but  that  a  Tartar  generally  sulfers  in  silence, 
grumbles  against  the  ex(^cutioner,  and  at  length  sullenly  re- 
tires. In  the  case  of  mandarins,  corporeal  ciiastisement  may, 
in  ordinary  cases,  be  conmujted  for  fine  or  degradation,  or 
entire  dismissal  from  the  service  of  goveinment.  The  near 
relatic)n,  also,  of  a  convicted  tdfender,  may  put  himself  in  the 
place  of  his  friend,  and  undergo  the  legal  jiunishment,  pro- 
vided that  it  be  slight.  It  is  affirmed,  even,  that  there  are  per- 
sons who  make  a  trade  of  ollering  themselves  a.s  substitutes 
in  these  cases,  and  who  are  freely  admitt(Ml  by  t!ie  judges. 
These  persons  contrive  to  escape  without  much  injury,  by 
sharing  their  pay  with  the  executioner,  as  the  actual  offender 
also  UKiy  do,  when  he  submits  in  person,  in  the  following  man- 
ner:—  VVhtMi  the  delinciuent  or  substitute  is  stretched  upon  the 
earth,  and  the  executioner  ready  to  strike,  he  raises  liis  fingers, 
in  what  number  he  thinks  proper,  each  of  them  expressing  a 
certain  number  of  the  smaller  coins.  The  soldier  under- 
stands the  signal,  apjiears  to  strike  with  all  his  force,  but  takes 
care  to  mak»'  the  end  of  the  bamboo  touch  the  ground;  and 
thus  the  sufferer,  though  ho  does  not  fail  to  utter  loud  cries  to 
keep  up  the  deception,  returns  without  having  sustained  much 
injury. 

JJrath  1)1)  strnmrlinp;  or  hrhpailincr. —  The  former  punishment 
is  not  inflicted  by  suspension,  as  in  Europe,  but  a  ruuning 
noose  is  put  round  the  neck  of  the  criminal,  and  two  attend- 
ants pull  tlip  cords  in  dinermt  directions,  with  all  their  might, 
suddenly  <iuit  their  hold  (lir  a  monxMit,  then  give  a  second  i)ull, 
which  generally  completes  the  business;  or,  the  criminal  is  tied 
ujiright  to  a  cross,  a  rope  passed  about  his  neck,  and  twisted 
strongly  behind  by  means  of  a  stick,  or  bow,  in  the  hand  of 
thf  executioner.  The  latter  punishment,  that  (tf  beheading, 
is  accounted  the  most  infamous;  and  as  tht>  Chinese  consider 
tlie  loss  of  any  member,  with  which  they  have  been  born,  as 
onr-  of  the  greatest  misfortunes,  they  have  a  peculiar  horror 
of  suffering  decapitation,  and  of  thus  dying  in  a  mutilated 
Ktafe.  deprived  of  the  noblest  part  of  the  body.  Sometimes 
the  head  of  the  criminal,  especially  of  an  assassin,  is  exposed 
in  a  cage  susi)ended  from  a  post  erected  at  the  side  of  the 
highway.  I'ersons  guilty  of  high  treason  are  |)ut  to  death  by 
a  slow  and  painful  execution  ;  and  though  it  is  sometimes  spe- 
cified that  this  shall  be  done  by  opening  the  belly  of  the  crim' 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  415 


PRISONS. 


inal,  and  then  cutting  his  body  into  several  pieces,  yet  it  is  per- 
mitted to  the  executioner,  in  general,  to  aggravate  and  pro- 
long the  sufTerings  of  the  condemned,  by  any  species  of  cru- 
elty which  he  may  choose  to  inflict.  In  cases  of  capital  pun- 
ishment, the  sentence  cannot  be  executed  till  the  emperor  has 
examined  and  confirmed  the  process.  When  the  crime  is  of 
an  atrocious  nature,  the  execution  is  ordered  to  take  place 
without  delay  ;  but,  in  general,  it  is  postponed  till  the  season 
of  autumn,  when  all  the  sentences  of  death  are  inflicted 
throughout  the  empire.  Before  any  offender  is  put  to  death,  a 
meal  is  set  before  him ;  and  he  may  be  conveyed  to  the  fatal 
spot  by  a  chair,  or  carriage,  if  he  has  means  to  procure  it. 
His  mouth  is  gagged,  and  the  judges  are  present  at  the  exe- 
cution. In  some  rare  cases,  the  sentence  of  death  may  be 
relPtemed  by  a  sum  of  money,  from  £400  to  £4000,  according 
to  the  rank  and  ability  of  the  offender.  Persons  below  ten, 
and  above  eighty  years  of  age,  when  guilty  of  a  capital  of- 
fence, are  recommended  to  the  emperor's  clemency  ;  and  no 
on^  below  seven,  or  above  ninety,  is  made  to  suffer  death  for 
any  crime  except  high  treason. 

There  are  prisons  in  every  city  of  conseq7ience,  which  are 
said  to  be  large,  commodious,  and  in  excellent  order.  They 
are  surrounded  with  high  walls,  m  which  are  lodgings  for  the 
soldiers;  and  have  large  courts,  where  the  prisoners  are 
allowed  to  walk  during  the  daj^  As  their  allowance  of  rice 
from  the  government  is  small,  they  are  permitted  to  work  for 
their  support,  and  hence  the  prisons  are  provided  with  work- 
shops, and  the  necessary  articles  for  the  different  professions. 
In  the  larger  prisons,  merchants,  tailors,  butchers,  and  cook- 
shops  are  to  be  found  for  the  use  of  the  persons  confined ;  and, 
if  the  prisoners  possess  money,  and  have  been  guilty  of  slight 
faults,  they  can  procui-e  separate  cells  and  kind  treatment. 
Their  relatives  are  allowed  to  visit  them  in  prison,  and  are 
even  encouraged  to  afford  them  everj^  assistance  in  their  pow- 
er. The  debtors  and  felons  are  always  kept  in  separate 
apartments  ;  and  the  latter  are  neither  allowed  to  go  out,  nor 
to  speak  to  any  person.  They  bear  a  piece  of  wood  upon 
their  neck,  upon  which  is  written  their  name,  crime,  and  sen- 
tence.. They  may  be  allowed  to  work,  and  to  enjoy  some  little 
ease  during  the  day:  but  are  strictly  treated  during  night,  lest 
they  should  effect  their  escape,  for  which  the  soldiers  would  be 
held  strictly  respon^ble.  They  are  then  stretched  upon 
planks  of  wood;  tied  down  by  large  chains  on  their  feet, 
hands,  and  body,  stowed  close  to  each  other,  so  that  they  can 
scarcely  stir;  and  are  even  covered  above  with  large  pieces 
of  timber.  The  women,  also,  are  separated  from  the  men, 
and  can  be  seen  and  spoken  to  only  through  a  grate,  or  the 
turning-box  by  which  their  food  is  conveyed.  A  mandarin  is 
appointed  to  inspect  fi-equently  these  places  of  confinement; 
and  is  bound  to  see  that  the  sick  be  properly  treated,  provided 


416  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

CHINA. 


with  medicines,  and  attended  by  a  physician,  at  the  expense 
of  the  eniiieror.  Upon  the  death  of  a  prisoner,  tlie  eni|)eror 
must  be  immediately  informed,  and  he  sometimes  commis- 
sions a  higher  mandarin  to  inquire  how  far  the  inspecting 
offic(>r  has  done  his  duty.  The  body  of  a  deceased  prisoner 
is  not  carried  out  by  th»'  ordinary  gate,  but  by  a  hole  in  the  wail, 
made  for  the  puri)ose,  which  is  accounted  one  of  the  most  in- 
famous occurrences  in  tlie  life  of  a  Chinese;  and  one  of  their 
heaviest  imprecations  upon  another,  is  to  wish  that  he  may 
be  carried  through  the  hole.  Hence,  when  a  person,  pos- 
sessed of  any  property  or  station,  falls  sick  in  |)rison,  his  rela- 
tions use  all  their  means  to  procure  his  dismissal  till  cured, 
that,  in  case  of  his  dying,  he  may  thus  avoid  the  fate  of  being 
carried  through  the  wall. 

There  are  no  inti.t  in  any  part  of  the  empire,  that  is.  inhab- 
ited houses  where  the  traveller  may  procure  rest  and  refresh- 
ment ;  and  this  want  is  not  compensated  by  the  hospitality  of 
the  natives,  who  are  rather  inclintvl  to  shut  their  doors  against 
strangers,  than  to  welcome  them  with  the  offer  of  rest  or  shel- 
ter. There  are  indeed,  wiiat  are  called  inns,  or  rather  resting 
places,  consisting  of  bare  wall.s,  where  the  traveller  may  pur- 
chase permission  to  pass  the  night,  and  perhaps  procure  a  cup 
of  tea.  Of  these  there  are  a  sufficient  number,  some  of  which 
are  established  by  government  for  the  convenience  of  those 
who  travel  in  the  service  of  the  emperor;  but  the  officers  of 
the  state  very  generally  make  use  of  the  temples  and  convents 
as  places  of  lodging,  when  they  travel  by  land  ;  and  the  infro- 
quency  of  land  travelling  in  China,  is  such  as  s<5arcely  to 
dfTord  support  to  houses  of  proper  accommodation  for  pas- 
sengers. 

It  is  scarcely  possible  to  procure  horses  upon  the  roads 
especially  in  the  southern  provinces,  but  then*  is  no  difliculty 
in  finding  abundance  f)f  palanqMins.  carts,  hand-barrows,  and 
especially  excellent  porters,  who  are  chielly  employed  in  trans- 
porting bngtrage  from  one  town  or  stage  to  another.  They 
are  united  in  bodies  in  every  town  under  a  common  chief  who 
regulates  their  engairements,  fixes  the  price  of  their  labors, 
receives  their  hire,  and  is  responsible  for  their  fidelity.  The.se 
offic  es  are  all  regulated  by  government,  and  maintain  a  cor- 
respondence with  each  other.  The  trav«'iler  carries  to  one  of 
them,  before  his  departure,  a  list  of  the  articles  which  he 
wishes  to  have  conveyed,  and  whic  h  is  immediately  entered 
into  a  book.  Every  thing  is  weighed  b»'fore  the  eyes  of  the 
chief;  the  fare  is  generally  paid  in  advance,  at  the  rate  of 
five-pence  per  cwt.,  for  one  day's  carriage  ;  and  the  traveller, 
on  his  arrival  at  the  next  city,  finds  every  thing  safely  lodged 
at  the  corresponding  office. 

There  are  post-houses  established  upon  the  great  roads,  but 
solely  for  the  service  of  government ;  and  no  one  but  the 
couriers  of  the  state  are  allowed  to  use  the  horses,  which  are 
fjund  at  these  stations.     These  posts  or  relays,  are  by  no 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  417 


ARCHITECTURE. 


means  very  numerous,  and  are  frequently  at  great  distance 
from  each  other.  The  couriers  carry  the  despatches  in  a  roll 
or  long  bag,  covered  with  yellow  silk,  and  laid  across  their 
back ;  and  either  the  horse  has  a  belt  attached  to  its  neck,  or  . 
the  rider  strikes  upon  a  copper  drum  to  announce  his  arrival, 
that  a  fresh  horse  may  be  ready  without  delay.  Though  the 
horses,  which  belong  to  government,  are  small,  ill  fed,  and 
carelessly  treated,  these  couriers  travel  at  a  considerable  rate, 
generally  100,  and  sometimes  150  miles,  in  the  24  hours ;  and 
they  have  been  known  to  pass  between  Canton  and  Pekin  in  the 
space  of  11  days.  There  are  also  cavalry  soldiers  at  every 
city,  who  are  intended  to  carry  the  orders  and  despatches  of 
the  mandarins ;  but  who  voluntarily  take  charge  of  the  letters 
of  individuals,  which  they  carry  in  a  leather  bag  attached  to 
their  saddle. 

Guard-houses  are  placed  along  the  roads  for  the  protection 
of  travellers,  at  intervals  of  half  a  league,  a  league,  two 
leagues,  or  even  more  ;  and  the  space  between  them  is  com- 
monly marked  upon  a  wooden  door  in  their  front.  They  are 
provided  with  a  guard  of  five  soldiers,  and  consist  generally 
of  a  lodging-house,  and  a  stable ;  sometimes  accompanied 
by  a  square  tower  about  20  or  25  feet  in  height,  adorned  with 
parapets,  and  a  small  apartment  on  the  top ;  or  a  small  wooden 
cabin,  supported  by  four  very  tall  posts,  to  which  they  ascend 
by  a  ladder  ;  or  a  square  building  of  two  stories,  on  a  rising 
gi-ound,  with  a  small  open  room  on  its  summit.  These  towers, 
cabins,  and  heights,  are  used  by  the  soldiers  as  places  from 
which  they  occasionally  keep  a  lookout,  and  make  signals  to 
the  neighboring  guard  stations,  by  kindling  a  heap  of  straw  in 
a  brick  furnace.  The  soldiers,  however,  who  ought  to  do 
duty  at  these  watch-houses,  are  frequently  absent,  and  their 
doors  shut.  It  is  only  when  a  mandarin  is  expected  to  pass, 
that  they  are  sure  to  be  at  their  post,  and  on  such  occasions 
the  guard  is  drawn  out,  the  kettle-drum  sounded,  and  three 
rounds  fired. 

The  Chinese  architecture  bears  no  resemblance  to  that  of 
Europe ;  and  is  not  easily  described  in  the  usual  terms  of  art. 
Their  houses  in  general  have  nothing  remarkable  in  their  ex- 
ternal appearanc^e,  and  even  their  public  edifices  are  distin- 
guished rather  by  their  extent  than  their  magnificence.  Their 
whole  style  of  building  is  represented  by  intelligent  observers, 
as  extremely  slight  arid  ill-proportioned,  inelegant  in  their  de- 
sign, and  clumsy  in  the  execution.  All  their  dwellings  are  ' 
supposed  to  have  been  originally  constructed  after  the  model 
of  a  tent,  with  a  carved  roof,  and  wooden  pillars  round  the 
brick  wall  in  imitation  of  the  poles  which  support  the  sides  of 
the  tent.  The  external  form  and  aspect  of  all  the  houses  are 
extremely  similar ;  and  the  habitation  of  a  grandee  in  the  capi- 
tal, is  distinguished  from  that  of  a  tradesman,  chiefly  by  being 
surrounded  by  a  high  wall,  and  by  occupying  a  greater  space 


418         UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

CHINA. 

of  groiiiul.  The  clwellinir-s  of  the  poiisantry,  in(l(H'(],  are  in 
general  extremely  wretched,  and  little  better  than  huts,  con- 
sisting of  low  brick  or  earthen  walls,  covered  by  a  slender 
roof  of  straw  or  reeds.  The  habitations  of  the  ordinary  in- 
habitants in  cities  are  confined  within  narrow  limits ;  and  a 
small  court,  with  two  or  three  low-roofed  apartments,  forms 
the  lodging  of  a  whole  family.  The  walls  are  generally  of 
wood,  occasionally  of  brick,  but  rarely  of  stone;  and  are 
neither  solidly  constructed,  nor  properly  founded.  The  foof 
is  commonly  composed  of  tiles,  formed  in  the  shape  of  a 
canal,  and  those  which  are  placed  at  the  extremity  are  for  the 
most  part  curiously  wrought  and  differently  shaped.  The 
lower  stories  are  raised  a  little  cxbovethe  surface  of  the  ground 
to  avoid  the  moisture,  and  are  paved  with  bricks  or  square 
tiles.  The  second  fiats  are  chiefly  employed  as  store-rooms, 
and  the  stairs,  in  constructing  which  the  Chinese  architects 
are  extremely  unskilful,  are  little  better  than  upright  ladders. 
The  houses  of  the  more  wealthy  are  distinguished  by  their 
large  courts,  galleries  of  comnuuiication,  and  various  gates. 
The  ground  plot  of  300  or  400  feet  is  laid  out  into  ten  or  twelve 
courts  paved  with  tiles.  In  some  of  these  courts  are  three  or 
four  tent-shaped  houses,  standing  upon  stone  t(M"races,  which 
are  about  three  feet  above  the  level  of  the  pavement;  and  from 
each  of  these  apartments  and  courts  are  galleries  of  commu- 
nication, consisting  of  colonnades  of  red  wooden  pillars  rest- 
ing on  stone,  leading  to  the  adjoining  parts  of  the  habitation, 
so  that  every  jiart  of  it  may  be  visited  without  being  exi)osea 
to  the  sun  or  air.  The  floors  of  the  apartments  are  paved 
with  bricks  or  clay;  the  ceiling  is  formed  of  bamboo  laths 
covered  with  ])laster,  or  is  left  altogether  open,  without  any 
thing  to  conceal  the  rafters.  The  windows  are  without  glass, 
but  are  furnished  with  oil  paper,  horn,  silk  gauze,  oy  pearl  shell, 
as  a  substitute.  The  walls  are  generally  whitened  with  lime 
made  from  shells,  or  covered  with  white  pajier;  and  some  of 
the  rooms  have  luiles  in  the  corners,  by  way  of  fireplaces, 
from  which  the  heat  is  conveyed  tliiough  flues  in  the  walls,  or 
under  the  floor.  The  apartments  of  the  ladies  have  frequently 
two  stories,  the  uppermost  of  which  have  often  no  light,  and 
are  seldom  so  gfiod  as  the  common  garret  in  England.  The 
furniture  consists  of  a  table,  a  fi-w  clumsy  chairs  of  varnished 
wood,  which  on  days  of  ceremony  are  covered  with  red  cloth, 
some  porcelain  dishes  filled  with  lemon  trees  or  other  shrubs, 
co|)per  vessels  fur  burning  perfinnes.  and  lanterns  of  various 
forms,  made  of  paper,  silk,  ivory,  or  horn,  and  sometimes  orna- 
mented in  a  very  expensive  manner.  Looking-glasses  are 
rarely  found  in  Chinese  apartments,  and  little  attention  ap- 
pears to  be  paid  to  internal  decorations. 

Pete  nf  the  ivaivifdcliirins:  (irfs  have  attained  any  high  degree 
of  excellence  in  China  ;  and  almost  the  only  one,  in  which  they 
excel,  is  in  the  art  of  pottery.      Even  the  superior  qualitv 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  419 


PORCELAIN. 


however,  of  their  porcelain,  is  more  owing  to  the  excellence 
of  the  materials  which  they  possess,  and  the  care  with  which 
they  select  and  purify  them,  than  to  any  ingenuity  or  skill  dis- 
played in  the  process.  Their  taste  in  shaping  and  ornament- 
ing their  porcelain  vessels  is  generally  acknowledged  to  be 
most  wretched;  and  they  can  neither  finish  nor  paint  their 
ware  in  a  manner  equal  to  that  of  European  manufacture. 

The  two  principal  substances  which  enter  into  the  composi- 
tion of  their  porcelain,  and  upon  the  due  preparation  and  pro- 
portioning of  which  its  quality  depends,  are  called  Kao-lin  and 
Pe-tun-tse:  the  former  is  a  fine  soft  clay,  or  soapstone,  mixed 
with  a  few  grains  of  mica ;  and  the  latter  a  kind  of  granite 
composed  chiefly  of  quartz,  with  a  small  quantity  of  mica ;  the 
whitest  of  each,  and  that  which  has  a  greenish  hue,  is  always 
preferred,  and  carefiilly  purified.  The  pe-tun-tse,  after  being 
broken  by  an  iron  club,  is  pounded  in  mortars  by  means  of 
levers  headed  with  stone  and  bound  with  iron,  which  are  some- 
times worked  with  water  like  the  hammers  of  paper-mills. 
The  powder  is  then  thrown  into  a  large  vessel  full  of  water, 
stirred  with  an  iron  shovel,  and  left  to  settle.  A  kind  of  cream, 
about  four  inches  thick,  then  rises  to  the  top,  which  is  repeat- 
edly scummed  off  as  it  collects,  and  poured  into  another  ves- 
sel filled  with  water.  The  dregs,  which  remain  behind,  are 
then  pounded  anew,  and  submitted  to  the  same  process.  The 
cream,  thus  collected,  is  allowed  to  remain  in  a  vessel  of 
water,  till  it  forms  a  crust  at  the  bottom,  and  the  water  above 
becomes  perfectly  clean,  which  is  then  gently  poured  off",  and 
the  paste  thrown  into  large  moulds  to  be  dried;- but,  before 
becoming  entirely  hard,  it  is  cut  into  small  square  cakes  like 
bricks,  which  are  sold  by  the  hundred. 

The  kao-lin  is  found  in  large  mines,  under  a  stratum  of  red 
earth ;  and  though  almost  sufficiently  prepared  in  its  natural 
state,  is  made  to  pass  through  the  same  process,  and  formed 
into  bricks  like  the  pe-tun-tse.  These  two  substances  are  then 
mixed  together,  the  kao-lin  acting  as  a  cement  to  unite  the 
particles  of  the  pe-tun-tse.  For  the  fine  porcelain,  equal  parts 
of  each  are  employed;  for  that  of  a  secondary  quality,  four 
parts  of  the  kao-lin  are  added  to  six  of  the  pe  tun-tse ;  and  for 
that  of  the  lowest  kind,  one  part  of  kao-lin  to  three  of  pe-tun- 
tse.  Instead  of  kao-lin,  the  manufacturers  sometimes  employ 
a  kind  of  greasy  chalk-stone,  named  hao-tche,  which  is  pound- 
ed, purified,  and  formed  into  cakes,  in  the  same  manner  as  the 
other  substances.  The  porcelain  made  of  this  material  is 
finer,  whiter,  and  lighter,  but  at  the  same  time  more  brittle 
and  expensive,. than  what  is  made  with  kao-lin ;  and  hence, 
the  workmen  generally  content  themselves  with  dipping  the 
formed  paste  into  a  thick  tincture  of  hao-tche,  for  the  purpose 
of  giving  it  a  greater  degree  of  whiteness.  Another  kind  of 
substance  of  the  nature  of  gypsum,  called  she-kao,  is  also  oc- 
casionally used,  but  it  wants  the  solidity  of  the  kao-lin. 

When  the  substances  are  mixed,  vessels  are  formed  fi'om 


420  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

CHINA. 

them  passina:  throupfh  a  variety  of  hands,  perliaps  to  tlie  num- 
ber of  twenty,  before  they  are  ready  for  the  furnace.'  They 
are  then  baked,  but  it  often  hapi)ens  tliat  from  too  strong  a 
heat  the  whole  are  completely  spoiled,  lieinsr  converted  into  a 
shapeless  mass  as  hard  as  flint.  The  Chinese  name  for 
porcelain  is  tse-kee;  and  the  best  is  made  in  the  villaije  of 
Kiang-te-ching,  in  the  province  of  Kiang-see.  The  finest  is 
reserved  for  the  emperor;  and  it  has  been  questioned,  whether 
any  of  the  largest  and  most  beautiful  pieces  have  ever  been 
brought  to  Europe.  The  porcelain  pieces  are  painted  of  va- 
rious colors;  but  the  prevailing  color  is  white,  with  blue  flow- 
ers; and  the  greater  part  of  what  is  transported  to  Europe  is 
of  this  color.  An  inferior  kind,  entirely  wliite,  is  also  brought 
to  Canton,  in  order  to  be  painted  there,  according  to  the  orders 
of  the  European  merchants.  It  is  said,  that  one  of  the  most  es- 
teemed and  ex|iensive  kinds  is  of  a  red  color,  which  is  some- 
times uniform  throughout,  and  somi^imes  merely  sprinkhnl  in 
the  form  of  small  spots  ;  which  is  done  by  dipping  the  end  of 
a  pipe  covered  with  gauze  into  the  coloring  matter,  and  then 
blowing  it  upon  the  porcelain.  There  is  also  a  l)lack  or  lead- 
colored  porcelain,  sometimes  interspersed  with  gilding,  which, 
is  in  great  request ;  and  this  gold  color  is  prepared  by  rubbing 
with  the  palm  of  the  hand,  in  a  plate  of  the  porcelain,  gold 
dust  mixed  with  water  and  sugar.  It  is  then  applied  with  a 
pencil  dipped  in  clear  gum-water;  and  when  the  vessel  has 
passed  through  the  furnace,  the  gold  is  pohshed  with  a  fine 
wet  sand. 

77ie  useofsilkhas  unquestionably  been  known  in  China  from 
a  very  remote  period  ;  and  mention  is  made  of  a  kind  of  bro- 
cade in  the  annals  of  Tcheoo,  about  780  years  before  Christ. 
There  are  strong  grounds,  however,  for  the  belief,  that  the  cul- 
ture of  the  silk-worm  was  first  introduced  into  the  Chinese 
empire  by  a  colony  of  Jews,  after  the  exi)edition  of  Alexander 
to  India  had  opened  a  communication  with  these  countries  ; 
and  it  is  at  least  certain,  that  tlicy  are  the  host  manufacturers 
of  that  article  in  Cliina,  and  abound  chielly  in  the  silk  })rov- 
inces.  But,  in  whatever  way,  and  at  whatever  periocl,  the 
manufacture  of  silk  was  introduced,  it  has  been  cultivated  to 
such  an  amazing  extent,  that,  besides  the  immense  quantities 
annually  expnrteci.  it  forms  the  j>rincipal  clothing  of  the  greater 
part  (d  the  inhabitants.  The  best  is  protluced  in  the  province 
of  Tcne-kiang,  and  is  distinguished  by  its  superior  fineness  of 
texture,  softness  t<i  the  touch,  and  whiteness  of  color.  The 
greater  cjuantityof  silk  stuffs  are  manufactured  in  the  prov- 
ince of  Kiang-nan,  and  its  capital  Nankeen,  from  which  is 
procured  all  that  is  intended  for  the  use  of  the  empire.  The 
Chinese  manufacture  this  substance  into  a  great  variety  of 
stuffs,  plain,  striped,  flowered,  na[)ped,  clouded,  gauzes,  vel- 
vets, and  brocades,  of  every  different  color,  especially  violet, 
red,  yellow,  and  black  ;  and  a  multitude  of  other  kinds,  whose 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  421 

— ^— *^  ' '  ' — -— — — —     ' 

SILK — PRINTING. 

names  even  are  unknown  in  other  countries.  They  make 
several  kinds  similar  to  those  of  Europe,  but  very  inferior  in 
point  of  -workmanship.  Neither  are  the  silk  buttons,  ribands, 
and  stockings,  which  they  manufacture  in  Canton  after  foreign 
patterns,  equal  to  those  of  France  and  England.  Their  vel- 
vets are  bad ;  their  Nankin  and  Pekin  satins  are  very  unequal, 
and  liable  to  cut.  Their  gold  brocades,  though  extremely 
brilliant,  when  fresh  from  the  hand  of  the  workman,  are  easily 
tarnished  by  air  and  moisture,  as  the  gold  which  they  employ 
is  only  a  kind  of  gilt  paper.  They  excel  chiefly  in  the  manu- 
facture of  gauzes,  both  plain  and  flowered,  of  great  variety 
and  beauty.  The  stuff  so  well  known  by  the  name  of  Nan- 
keen is  made  of  cotton  from  the  province  of  Kiang-nan,  which 
naturally  possesses  the  peculiar  yellow  hue,  which  distin- 
guishes the  cloth  in  question  j  but  it  is  said  to  lose  this  color, 
when  cultivated  in  the  more  southern  provinces,  though  it  has 
been  raised  in  great  perfection,  both  as  to  size  and  color  of 
the  pods,  at  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope. 

The  arl  of  printing-  was  invented  in  China,  about  950  years 
after  the  birth  of  Christ ;  but  it  is  more  like  the  engraving  on 
copper-plates  than  tlie  moveable  types  of  a  European  press. 
The  characters  are  first  written  out  by  a  fail-  and  skilful  Avriter, 
on  sheets  of  thin  transparent  paper.  These  are  then  glued 
upon  boards  of  liard  wood,  generally  of  the  apple  or  pear-tree, 
when  the  engraver,  following  the  traces  of  the  writing,  carves 
the  cliaracters  upon  the  plank,  afterwards  hollowing  out  the 
ijitermediate  parts  of  the  wood.  Each  of  these  boards  gene- 
rally contains  two  pages,  which  are  printed  on  one  side  only 
of  a  sheet  of  pai)er,  of  the  same  size  of  the  engraved  plank, 
generally  royal  octavo,  and  afterwards  folded  together.  The 
jn'inter  places  the  board  in  a  level  position,  lays  on  the  ink, 
which  is  more  fluid  than  that  which  is  used  in  writing,  with  a 
hard  brush:  applies  the  sheet  of  paper  ;  presses  it  down  with 
another,  softer  kind  of  brush,  with  greater  or  less  force,  ac- 
cording to  the  quantity  of  ink  on  the  plank  ;  and  thus  throws 
off  four  or  five  sheets,  without  having  occasion  to  renew  the 
inlc.  In  this  way,  they  can  throw  off  copies  as  in  stereotype 
printing,  according  to  the  demand  ;  but,  as  all  their  works 
must  be  executed  in  the  same  style,  it  becomes  a  very  incon- 
venient matter  to  preserve  the  engraved  planks,  as  one  cham- 
ber is  scarcely  suiiicient  to  contain  t]\ose  which  compose  one 
work,  and  as  they  are  apt  to  be  injured  by  the  worms*  They 
have  also  a  few  moveable  types,  of  those  characters  which 
occur  most  frequently,  and  which  they  employ  in  printing  the 
Gazette,  and  other  smaller  publications.  In  cases  of  great 
urgency,  such  as  an  edict  of  government,  which  may  require 
lobe  printed  in  the  course  of  a  day  or  night,  the  characters 
are  traced  and  engraved  on  a  block  or  board  covered  with 
yellow  wax,  from  which  the  impressions  are  then  taken  in  the 
usual  way.  A  Chinese  author  must  print  at  his  own  expense, 
36 


423  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

CHINA. 

unless  he  be  a  mandarin,  in  which  case  he  presents  his  work 
to  the  emperor,  and,  if  approved  by  the  imperial  collej^e,  it  is 
jirinted  at  the  expense  of  government.  There  are  numerous 
printiuiT  (iffic(>s  in  China,  especially  in  the  city  of  Soo-tchcoo- 
foo,  in  the  ]irovince  of  Kian<2;-nan,  where  a  considiMable 
trade  is  carried  on  in  books,  which  are  chiefly,  however,  col- 
lections of  poetical  pieces. 

The  vomen  are  invariably  sold  at  marriage,  and  are  not  per- 
mitted to  exercise  any  choice  of  their  own.  The  bridep;ro(»m 
barjrains  with  the  parents  or  other  relations;  and  the  hifrhest 
bidder  is  commonly  preferred.  At  the  same  time,  he  is  not 
allowed  to  see  his  intended  wife,  till  she  arrives  in  ]irocession 
at  his  irate,  shut  uj)  in  a  close  chair,  of  which  he  then  receives 
the  key ;  and,  should  it  happen,  upon  his  opening  the  door  of 
the  vehicle,  that  he  is  not  pleased  with  his  hajtrain.  he  is  at 
liberty  to  return  her  to  her  friiMids,  uiton  condition  f)f  forfeiting 
the  jiurchase  money.  lUit  the  lady  has  no  remedy  or  option, 
and  must  pass  to  the  highest  purchaser,  or  to  the  person  whom 
her  panMits  choose  to  prefer.  Mutual  atiection,  there(()re,  be- 
tween the  sexes,  may  be  considered  as  in  a  manner  unknown 
in  China ;  but  every  one  hastens  to  juociue  a  wife,  because 
such  is  the  law  and  custom  of  his  countrj'.  He  sets  out  to 
l)urchase  his  future  ]iartner,  as  he  would  look  out  for  some 
necessary  article  of  household  furniture;  and  she  continues, 
on  her  side,  to  act  neaily  as  inanimate  and  motionless  a  part 
as  if  she  were  nothintr  el-^e.  She  neither  considers  it  any  in- 
dignity, nor  ex)iresses  any  feeling  of  jealousy,  though  a  second 
or  tiiii'd  wife  should  be  broiiglit  into  the  house;  but  is  content- 
ed with  presiding  as  the  tiist  fi'Uiale  in  the  family,  and  with 
being  called  mother  by  all  the  children.  Upon  the  death  of 
the  husband,  the  widow,  if  a  person  of  rank,  is  honored  by 
pre.T:"viiig  her  state  of  widowhood  ;  and  it  is  very  rarely  the 
case  that  sl.c  enti-rx  tin?  second  tini«^  into  the  marriage  life. 
But,  in  the  lower  cia.'^Kes,  the  relations  of  the  deceased  gene- 
rally dispose  of  the  widow  to  another  husband,  that  they  may 
gain  something  by  jmcketing  the  j^rice  which  she  brings.  The 
marriage  eereinony  is  suflicientiy  simple,  and  consisis  in  little 
else  than  the  procession  of  the  bride  to  the  gate  of  the  bride- 
groom, and  his  recejition  of  her  into  his  house.  The  bargain, 
as  has  been  mentioned,  is  concludtvl  between  the  relations  on 
each  side  ;  and  the  acc';|-itance  of  tin-  marriaire  jiresents  is  ac- 
counted a  sufiicient  evirlence  and  ratification  of  the  contract. 
On  the  day  appointed,  the  bride  is  cf)nveyed  in  a  close  palan- 
fpiin  to  her  future  residence,  oscrMfj-d  by  domestic  and  fi-male 
slaves,  bearing  presents  from  her  family  to  her  intended  hus- 
band. |)receded  by  musicians  of  different  descriiitions,  and 
followed  by  hi-r  friends  and  relations.  One  r)f  her  nearest 
kinilred  carries  tf)e  key  of  the  palanquin,  and  cnnunits  it  to 
the  bridegroom  upfin  reaching  his  house,  who  conducts  his 
spouse  to  the  presence  f>f  his  parents,  before  whom  they  both 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  423 

FUNERAL  RITES. 

j)rostrate  ihemselves,  in  token  of  dutiful  submission.  After- 
wards, the  two  parties  partake  together  of  food,  and  drink 
wine  out  of  the  same  cup.  The  male  attendants  are  enter- 
tained in  one  apartment,  and  the  females  in  another  ;  and  on 
these  occasions  the  Chinese  are  often  extremely  extravagant, 
so  as  frequently  to  impoverish  themselves  during  the  rest  of 
their  lives,  by  the  expenses  attending  the  marriages  of  their 
children.  The  wives  continue  their  former  retired  life,  seeing 
only  their  husbands  or  near  relations,  occupying  themselves 
with  the  internal  economy  of  their  households,  and  devoting 
the  greatest  attention  to  the  care  of  their  children. 

The  funeral  rites  are  attended  with  enormous  expense  in 
China ;  and  the  most  showy  articles  to  be  found  for  sale  in  the 
large  cities,  are  coffins  for  the  dead.  They  are  made  of 
planks,  from  three  to  six  inches  in  thickness,  very  closely  join- 
ed ;  raised  like  a  trunk  on  the  top,  and  generally  convex,  also, 
at  the  two  ends.  They  are  sometimes  made  of  the  more  pre- 
cious kmds  of  wood,  very  richly  ornamented,  and  cost  from 
300  to  600  dollars  ;  while  that  of  a  person  in  ordinary  wealthy 
circumstances  is  seldom  procured  for  less  than  from  10  to  15 
or  twenty  dollars.  It  is  a  common  practice  for  individuals  to 
j)urchase  their  coffins  during  their  lives ;  and  it  Is  frequently 
the  son  who  presents  one  to  his  father,  which  is  always  the 
more  highly  valued,  and  shown  with  greater  complacency 
to  every  visiter  in  proportion  to  its  magnificence.  When 
brought  forth  for  use,  a  layer  of  lime  is  put  into  the  bottom^ 
the  body  deposited  in  full  dress,  with  a  cushion  under  the 
I'lead ;  the  vacant  place  is  completely  filled  with  lime  and  cot- 
ton, and  the  lid  then  fastened  down  with  the  utmost  exact- 
ness. The  whole  coffin  is  generally  pitched  within  and  with- 
out, sometimes  covered  with  varnish,  and  whitened  externally. 
In  this  state  they  often  remain  in  the  houses  a  considerable 
time,  without  the  smallest  odor  being  perceived ;  and,  while 
the  body  of  a  parent  is  thus  kept  uninterred  during  the  period 
of  mourning,  his  children  go  every  day  to  weep'at  the  side 
of  the  coffin.  In  ordinary  cases  the  corpse  is  laid  in  a  room 
hung  with  white  cloth,  with  a  covering  of  the  same  color 
thrown  over  the  coffin,  and  a  table  placed  before  it  with  candles 
of  perfumed  materials.  In  this  situation  it  remai-ns  sevei-al 
days  in  the  house  previous  to  interment ;  and  all  who  come  to 
show  their  respect  to  the  memory  of  the  deceased,  are  enter- 
tained by  some  of  the  relatives  with  tea  and  other  refresh- 
ments. On  the  day  of  tlie  funeral,  after  the  relations  and 
friends  are  assembled,  the  procession  is  opened  by  musicians, 
who  are  followed  by  several  persons  carrying  the  figures  of 
various  animals,  the  insignia  of  the  rank  of  the  deceased, 
small  pagodas,  parasols,  white  and  blue  flags,  with  vessels  of 
perfumes.  Next  walk  a  party  of  Bonzes,  immediately  before 
the  coffin,  which  is  carried  by  4,  8,  or  even  20  men,  upon  a  lit- 
ter, which  is  sometimes  surmounted  by  a  canopy.    Behind  the 


424  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

JAPAN. 

body  are  the  chikiren  and  near  relatives,  with  robes  of  coarse 
linen  over  their  clotiies,  and  caps  of  the  same  stuft".  The  eld- 
est son  walks  with  his  body  bciit  forwards,  leaninjr  upon  a 
staff,  and  is  generally  suj)p(irte(i  by  two  frirnds,  one  on  each 
side,  who  prevent  his  repeated  attempts  to  tear  his  hair  and 
his  face.  These  are  followed  by  the  friends  and  domestics: 
and  last  of  all,  at  a  little  distance  behind,  apjiear  the  womeii, 
on  foot,  or  in  palamniins,  with  dishevelled  hair  and  broad 
white  fillets  round  their  temples,  dressed  also  in  the  same 
coarse  linen  as  the  men,  and  bursting  at  intervals,  as  with  one 
consent,  into  lamentations  and  tears.  When  the  cofTin  is  en- 
tirely covered  with  earth,  libations  are  poinvd  out;  perfumed 
candles  and  paper  t\ii^^  placed  around  and  upon  the  tomb  ; 
and  the  figures  of  men,  clothes,  and  horses,  ail  of  cut  paper, 
ar6<  burned  upon  the  spot,  in  the  firm  persuasion,  tnat  tlie  ob- 
jects thereby  represented,  will  attend  the  deceased  into  the 
other  world.  After  the  ceremonies  are  finished,  the  company 
rest  themselves  in  tents  erected  at  a  little  distance  from  the 
grave,  where  they  j)ronounce  the  eulDgium  of  the  deceased, 
and  partake  of  the  meats  offered  to  his  memory;  and  then  re- 
turning to  the  grave,  prostrate  themselves  Ijefore  it,  and  ex- 
change salutations  with  the  chief  mourner,  injjrufound  silence. 


0.  JAPAN. 

The  islands  of  Japan  consist  of  three  large,  and  numerous 
otiier  smaller  islands,  lying  on  the  eastern  side  of  Asia,  in  the 
South  Pacific  Ocean.  The  largest  and  by  far  the  most  im- 
portant island  is  called  by  the  Japanese  Siphon — but  by  the 
Chinese  Sipnu  and  Jcpurn.  This  island  is  700  miles  in  length, 
and  from  75  to  80  broad. 

The  original  population  of  Japan  has  been  little  illustrated. 
The  present  Japanese  seem  to  be  a  kindred  race  with  the  Chi- 
nese, having  at  the  samr  tune,  according  to  Kanipfer,  a  lan- 
guage radically  distinct.  Perhaps  in  the  earlier  stages  of  so- 
ciety, as  is  observed  by  Pinkerton,  XXw  Japanese  may  have 
emigrated  from  China,  and  their  complete  insular  sejiaration 
may  have  given  birth  to  a  language  reiidrri-d  peculiar  by  the 
progress  of  a  distinct  civilization.  The  peojjle  of  this  nation 
are  described  by  Thunberg  to  be  well  made,  active,  free  and 
easy  in  their  motions,  and  stout  limbed,  though  yielding  in 
strength  to  till-  north<rn  inhabitants  of  l-'.urope.  The  men  are 
middle  sizfd,  and  in  general  not  corpulent,  all  ov<t  of  a  yel- 
lowish color  ;  in  som<*  brown,  in  others  white  j)redominates. 
The  lower  classes,  from  exposure  to  the  sun,  are  brown,  but 
ladies  of  distinction,  who  seldom  go  abroad  imcovered,  are 
perfectly  white.     The  discriminating  mark  of  the  Japanese, 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  425 

DRESS. 

as  of  the  Chinese,  is  the  eye.  This  organ  wants  its  character- 
istic rotundity,  being  oblong,  small,  and  sunk  deep  in  the  head, 
whence  these  people  have  the  appearance  of  being  pink-eyed. 
The  color  of  their  eyes,  however,  is  dark  brown,  or  rather 
black ;  and  the  eyelid  forming  a  deep  furrow,  makes  the  Japan- 
ese look  sharp-sighted.  Their  heads  are  in  general  large, 
their  necks  short,  and  their  hair  black,  thick,  and  shining  from 
the  use  of  oils. 

They  are  said  to  be  an  intelligent  and -provident  people, 
inquisitive  and  ingenious,  frugal  and  sober,  friendly  and  courte- 
ous, frank  and  good  humored,  upright  and  honest,  brave  and 
■tmyielding,  capable  of  concealing  and  controlling  their  feel- 
ings in  an  extraordinary  degree,  but  distrustful,  proud,  unfor- 
giving, and  revengeful. 

The  usual  dress  of  the  Japanese  is  a  short  upper  garment 
-with  wide  sleeves,  and  a  complete  gown  underneath,  fastened 
■round  the  neck,  and  reaching  quite  down  to  the  feet,  the  dress 
much  lesembling  that  of  European  females,  except  in  being 
^nore  confined  from  the  hips  downwards,  which  produces  great 
embarrassment  in  walking.     But  this  exercise  is  seldom  re- 
sorted to  by  a  Japanese,  except  from  compulsion.     The  rich 
rare  clothed  in  silks,  the  poor  in  close  woollen  stuffs.     The  up- 
per garment  is  generally  black,  the  under  dress  is  of  mixed 
colors.     Every  one  has  his  family  arms,  about  the  size  of  a 
half-dollar,   wrought  into  his  clothes,  in  different    places,  a 
practice  commando  both  sexes.     Thiis  persons  of  a  particular 
family  may  be  easily  recognised.     A  young  lady  wears  her 
father's  arms  till  after  marriage,  when  she  assimies  those  of 
her  husband.     The  greatest  honor  a  prince  or  governor  can 
confer,  is  to  present  a  cloak  with  his  arms  upon  it;  and  the 
.person  who  is  thus  honored  puts  his  own  arms  upon  some 
under  part  of  Jiis  dress.-    In  winter  they  wear  five  or  six  dress- 
es over  each  other  ;  but  though  the  weather  is  bad  in  January 
and  February,  they  use  neither  cloth  nor  furs  in  their  apparel. 
■Instead  of  shoes,  they  have  soles  merely  of  straw,  fastened  to 
the  great  toe  by  a  loop,  and  these  are  taken  off  when  they 
enter  a  room.     Altlvougb  they  have  their  heads  half  shorn,  they 
are  regardless  of  a  burning  sun,  or  piercing  cold.     They  do 
.not  use  parasols  in  sunshine,  nor  umbrellas  in  rainy  weather  ; 
but  in  travelling,  conical  caps,  fans,  umbrellas,  and  cloaks  of 
oiled   paper,  are  very  conunonly  used.  .  The  toilets  of  the 
Japanese  must  occupy  a  considerable  share  of  cittention,  as 
-they  are  very  particular  in  anointing  and  dressing  their  hair, 
which  is  collected  in  a  tuft -on  the  crown  of  the  head.  Small  pin- 
cers are  employed  to  -pluck  out  the  hairs  on  their  chin,  and 
these,  with  a  smaU  metal-looking  mirror,  are  found  in  the  pos 
session  of  every  Japanese.     They  cannot  be  denied,  Krusen- 
stern  observes,  to  study  great  cleanliness  of  person,  although 
they  make  no  use  of  linen ;  and  this  appears  a  governing 
propensity  of  the  Japanese  of  every  rank. 
36* 


426  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

JAPAN. 

The  Japan  houses  are  of  wood,  never  exceeding  two  stories, 
the  upper  one  consisting  chiefly  of  garrets  and  lumber  rooms. 
Thougii  the  house  is  commodious,  it  consists  in  general  of 
one  room,  capable,  by  moveable  partitions  and  screens,  of 
being  divided  into  apartments.  Neither  tables  nor  chairs  are 
used,  the  people  sitting  squat  on  straw  mats,  in  whicii  position 
they  eat  their  food. 

The  diet  of  the  Japanese  is  composed  of  a  greater  variety  of 
articles  than  that  of  any  other  i>eople  in  the  world.  Not  con- 
tented with  the  numerous  kinds  of  wholesome  and  nutriti\'e 
food  supplied  by  the  i)roduce  of  their  lands  and  waters,  they 
contrive  by  their  modes  of  |)reparing  their  victuals,  to  render 
the  less  valuable,  and  even  the  poisonous  parts  of  animal  and 
vegetable  substances  useful,  or  at  least  harmless  articles  of 
subsistence.  Their  meats  are  cut  into  small  pieces,  th(>rough- 
ly  stewed  or  boiled,  and  always  highly  seasoned  with  strong 
sjiices  and  sauces.  At  their  rneals,  the  company  are  sealed  on 
the  floor-mats,  with  a  small  square  table  before  each  person, 
whose  portion  is  served  \\\^  in  neat  vessels  of  i)orcelain,  or  of 
jaj)annt"d  wood,  which  are  tolerably  large  basins,  always  fur- 
nished with  lids.  The  guests  salute  each  other  with  a  low 
bow  before  they  begin  to  eat;  and,  like  the  Cliinese,  take  up 
the  food  by  means  of  two  small  pieces  of  wood,  held  between 
tJie  fingers  of  the  right  hand,  iMid  used  with  g)e;it  dexterit}'^,  so 
as  to  pick  up  the  smallest. grain  of  rice.  Between  each  dish 
they  drink  warm  sacki,  or  rice  beer,  out  of  shallow  saucers, 
and  at  the  same  time  occasionally  take  a  bit  of  a  hard  boiled 
egg.  Som«;  of  the  most  common  dishes  aie  fish  boiled  with 
onions  and  a  kiml  of  small  beans,  or  dics.-cd  with  oil;  fowls 
stewed  and  prepared  in  numerous  modes  ;  and  boiled  rice, 
which  supplies  ilie  place  of  bread  for  all  their  pro\iisions. 
Oils,  inusiudoms,  carrots,  and  various  bulbous  loots,  are  used 
in  making  up  thrir  dishes.  Tea  and  rice  beer  are  the  only 
liquors  used  by  the  Jajianese;  and  it  is  with  diflioilty  that  they 
can  be  persuaded  to  taste  wine  or  spirits.  The  sacki,  or  rice 
beer,  heats  and  inel)riates  when  tak(  n  to  any  extent,  but  the 
intoxication  which  it  produces  i>asses  oil"  speedily.  Tea,  which 
is  always  ready,  is  the  usual  beverage  for  quenching  thirst. 
It  is  customary  to  eat  tinee  times  a  day;  at  eight  o'clock  in 
the  morning,  two  in  the  afternoon. .and  eight  in  the  evening. 
The  women  eat  b)*  lliemselves,  apart  from  tiie  men.  The 
practice  uf  smoking  tobacco,  which  is  supposetl  to  have  been 
introduced  into  Japan  by  the  Portuguese,  is  very  conmion  with 
both  sexes.  Their  pipes  are  very  short,  seldom  more  than  six 
inches  in  lencrth.  and  scarcely  contain  half  a  tliiiui)le  fiijl  of  to- 
bacco. The  .stem  is  made  of  lackered  bamboo,  and  the  mouth- 
piece and  bowl,  of  copper.  Tli«>y  are  smoked  out  by  a  very 
few  whilfs,  and  recjuire  to  be  repeatedly  filled.  The  appara- 
tus used  by  persons  of  distinction  consists  of  an  oblong  box, 
about  eighteen  inches  in  length  an<l  a  foot  in  breadth,  of  a 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  42t 

JAPAN. 

brown  or  black  color,  which  contains,  besides  pipes  and  tobac- 
co, three  cups ;  one,  which  is  lined  with  brass,  for  holding  a 
live  coal  to  light  the  pipe,  another  to  receive  the  ashes  of  the 
tobacco,  and  the  third  to  serve  as  a  spit-box.  At  visits  this 
apparatus  is  the  first  thing  that  is  placed  before  the  guests, 
and  is  sometimes  carried  by  a  servant  to  places  v.here  tobac- 
co is  not  expected  to  be  presented.  The  poorer  classes  have 
tlieir  tobacco  pouch  and  pipe  slung  to  their  girdle  by  a  silken 
cord. 

Agriculture  being  in  high  estimation  in  Japan,  it  meets  with 
the  greatest  encouragement  from  tlie  government.  The  chief 
]iroduce  is  rice,  barley  and  wheat  being  little  used.  A  kind  of 
potato  is  common,  and  several  sorts  of  beans  and  peas, 
turnips  and  cabbage,  aboiuid.  The  rice  is  sown  in  April,  and 
gathered  in  November.  The  sid^s  of  the  bills  present  a  singu- 
lar spectacle  to  th-e  sti'anger,  from  the  mode  of  cultivation 
which  is  adopted.  Stone  walls  support  level  platforms  sown 
with  rice,  or  roots  ;  and  thousands  of  these  are  scattered  over 
the  mountains,  affording  a  favorable  picture  of  the  ingenuity 
end  industry  of  the  inhabitants.  Though  the  space  "should 
not  exceed  two  feet  square,  a  stone  vv'all  is  raised  at  the  bot- 
tom, the  enclosure  filled  with  earth,  and  carefully  sown  with 
rice,  or  planted  with  esculent  roots.  As  may  be  easily  sup- 
posed, from  this  state  of  general  cultivation,  few  forests  are 
suffered  to  grow :  these  are  confined  to  the  sides  of  such 
mountains,  probably,  as  can  be  subdued  by  neither  agricul- 
ture, labor,  nor  skiil. 

Tliere  are  no  fences  used  in  dividing  the  cultivated  grounds 
in  this  countiy ;  and  the  fields  often  resemble  kitchen  gardens 
divided  into  narrovv^  beds,  which  are  separated  from  each  other 
by  a  deer)  trench,  nearly  as  broad  as  the  divisions  which  are 
under  tire  crop.  After  a  certain  interval,  the  trenches  are 
filled  up  with  earth,  so  as  to  be  converted  in  their  tiu-n  into 
beds,  and  give  the  soil  a  rest  from  constant  bearing.  In  these 
beds  the  corn  is  sown  sometimes  lengthwise,  but  more  com- 
monly across  ;  and  after  the  crop  is  cut  down,  another  kind 
of  grain  is  sown  in  the  same  season,  between  the  stubble  of 
the  old  crop,  so  as  to  make  the  same  field  produce  twice  in 
one  year.  The  greatest  care  is  bestowed  upon  manuring  and 
cleaning  ground.  Every  kind  of  substance  which  can  be 
converted  into  manure  is  cn-efuUy  collected ;  and  together  with 
urine  and  foul  water  from  the  kitchen,  is  mixed  up  in  a  liquid 
state.  Tt  is  then  carried  in  large  pails  to  the  fields,  and,  by 
means  of  a  ladle,  it  is  poured  upon  the  plant  after  it  is  six 
inches  in  height.  Irrigation  is  also  much  practised,  Avherever 
water  can  be  procured  in  the  vicinity  of  the  fields.  The  weeds 
are  so  completely  cleared  away,  that  "the  most  quick-sighted 
botanist,"  says  Thunberg,  "  would  scarcely  be  able  to  discover 
a  single  plant  of  another  species  among  the  corn."  The 
grain  is  frequently  separated  from  the  straw  merely  by  beating 


428  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

5APAN- 


the  sheaves  a^rainst  a  post  or  bai  rei ;  but  it  is  coninwnly 
thrashed  on  straw  mats  in  tl>e  open  air,  by  means  of  Hails  with 
three  swineries.  There  are  no  pasture  grounds  among  the 
cultivated  tracts;  and  the  few  cattle  used  in  the  country  are 
all  fed  in  the  farmyards.  Thunbrrj,'  affirms,  that  the  soil 
throughout  Japan  is  naturally  bairen,  and  has  been  rendered 
so  remaikably  {>roductive  only  by  tlie  labor  and  skill  of  tiie 
husbandman. 

The  Japanese  have  been  celebrated  for  their  proficvency  in 
t;he  arts  and  sciences.  Perhaps  the-safrst  standard  of  compar- 
ison, in  this  respect,  will  be  their  neighbors,  the  Chinese. 
They  excel  in  the  manufactures  of  silk  and  cotton.  Their 
swords  an^  of  curious  workmanship.  Their  varnish  is  well 
known  as  inimitable,  but  for  this  they  are  chiefly  ind<<bted  to 
the  vegetable  from  which  it  is  made.  The  Japanese  cultivate 
music,  painting,  drawintr,  geography,  astronomy,  and  history. 
Their  art  of  i)rinting  is  confined  to  the  use  of  blocks  with 
which  they  imjnv^ssonly  one  side  of  the  i)aper.  Schools  geiuv 
rally  abound,  and  coipora'l  i)unishnu'nt,  it  is  said,  is  not  in- 
troduced into  their  system  of  education.  They  have  some 
knowledge  of  engraving;  and  are  tolerably  versed  in  tlie 
^iractical'iiart  of  surveying,  so  as  to  possess  pretty  acourate 
maps  of  their  own  country  and  its  towns.  Tlti-ir  artificers 
work  very  skilfully  in  iron  and  copper,  and  in  a  mixture  aC 
gold  and  copper,  ffllkxl  s-ouas,  which  they  have  the  art  of 
staining  black  or  bhie  by  means  of  their  ink.  Tiiey  excel  in 
the  fabrication  of  the  steel  instruments,  and  their  swords  are 
of  incomparable  proof  They  are  acquainted  with  the  art  of 
niakiiur  glass,  and  grinding  it  for  telescopes;  with  the  con- 
struction of  watches-,  which  they  leurned  from  their  European 
visiters;  and  with  the  manufacture  of  r-aper  from  the  bajk  of 
the  mulberry  tree.  Their  silk  and  cotton  stiills  are  ecpiai,  and 
often  superior  to  similar  productions  of  other  eastern  coun- 
tries ;  and  their  lackering  or  varnishing  in  wood  surpasses  all 
the  attemi)ts  which  have  ever  been  made  in  that  department  by 
any  other  people  in  the  world. 

The  public  roods  3?ve  crmstructed  and  kept  with  great  caro. 
They  are  made  verv  broad,  with  a  ditch  on  each  side  to  carry 
off  the  water;  and  are  freiiuently  hordi-red  with  hedges,  which 
sometimes  are  formed  of  the  tea-shrub.  Posts  are  regularly 
erected  to  indicate  the  miles,  which  are  all  measured  from  the 
capital,  anrl  also  tr.  direct  the  traveller  at  every  cross  road.  At 
the  time  when  the  princes  of  the  cf>Hntry  make  their  annual 
journey  to  the  court,  tlM>  roads  are  freed  from  every  kind  of 
dirt,  sprinkled  with  water  in  hot  weather,  and  sometimes  evea 
swept  with  brofims.  In  travelling  on  these  roads,  it  is  the  rule 
for  all  who  are  going  towards  the  capital  to  keep  to  the  lefl,  and 
for  those  who  move  in  an  opposite  direction  to  take  the  rightj 
or  rather  for  each  passenger  to  keep  always  to  the  side  on  his 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  429 

RELIGION. 

left  hand.  The  roads  ai'e  more  easily  preserved  in  so  good  a 
state,  as  no  wheel-carriages  are  used  in  the  country  for  travel- 
ling, except  a  few  carts  near  the  capita!,  which  are  confined  to 
one  side  of  the  highway ;  and  the  horses  are  generally  pro- 
vided with  straw  covers  to  their  feet  instead  of  iron  shoes. 
The  poorer  class  travel  on  foot,  and  others  either  on  horse- 
back, or  in  palanquins.  Several  persons,  and  sometimes  a 
whole  family,  are  mounted  on  one  horse.  In  such  cases,  the 
man  sits  on  tlie  saddle  with  his  legs  extended  forwards  on 
each  side  of  the  horse's  neck,  and  the  rest  of  the  party  are 
carried  in  baskets  on  each  side,  while  a  person  walks  before 
to  lead  the  animal.  The  palanquins,  or  kangoes  and  nori- 
mous,  as  they  are  called  in  Japan,  arc  of  various  sizes;  but 
the  better  kind  are  so  large,  that  the  traveller  may  lie  down, 
or  oit  at  his  ease,  on  stuffed  mattresses  and  cushions.  There 
are  windows  in  the  sides,  and  various  conveniences  within 
these  vehicles.  The  pole  by  which  they  are  carried  passes 
along  the  roof,  and  Is  borne  on  the  shoulders  of  the  bearers, 
who  generally  keep  time  by  a  song,  and  travel  at  the  rate  of  a 
league  an  hour,  or  ten  leagues  in  the  day.  When  any  one  of 
the  grandees  is  going  to  the  court  through  the  streets  of  the 
capital,  it  is  the  fashion  for  his  bearers  to  carry  the  pole  aloft 
on  their  hands,  and  to  move  at  the  utmost  speed  in  their 
power. 

l^he  most  prevalent  religious  sects  are  those  of  Sinto  and 
Budsdo.  The  professors  of  the  former  acknowledge  a  Su- 
preme Being,  who  inhabits  the  highest  heavens,  and  who  is 
far  too  great  to  require  their  worship  ;  but  they  admit  a  multi- 
tude of  inferior  divinities,  who  exercise  dominion  over  the 
earth,  water,  air,  &c.,  and  have  great  power  in  promoting  the 
happiness  or  misery  of  the  human  race. 

Their  practical  precepts  are  directed  to  inculcate  a  virtuous 
life,  and  obedience  to  the  laws  of  the  sovereign.  They  ab- 
stain from  animal  food,  and  are  reluctant  to  shed  blood,  or 
even  to  touch  a  dead  body.  Their  churches  contain  no  visi- 
ble idols,  nor  any  representations  of  the  Supreme  Being,  but 
sometimes  a  small  image  is  kept  in  a  box,  to  represent  some 
inferior  divinity,  to  whom  the  temple  is  consecrated.  The 
Budsdo  doctrine  was  brought  orio;inally  from  the  coast  of 
Malabar,  and  is  considered  the  same  with  that  of  Budah  in 
Hindostan.  Passing  from  China  into  Japan,  it  became  blend- 
ed with  that  of  Sinto,  and  gave  birth  to  a  monstrous  mixture 
of  superstitions.  Its  pecuhar  traits  are,  that  the  souls  of  men 
and  of  beasts  are  equally  immortal,  and  that  the  souls  of  the 
wicked  are  condemned  to  undergo  punishment  and  puritica- 
tion,  by  passing  after  death  into  the  bodies  of  the  lower  ani- 
mals. There  are  many  other  sects,  very  opposite  in  their 
tenets  and  observances  ;  but  they  are  said  to  live  together  in 
great  harmony,  or  rather  to  share  in  all  their  mutual  super- 
stitions. 


430  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

JAPAN. 

The  Japanese  put  great  faith  in  amulets :  hence,  a  monstrous 
picture  of  a  human  litrure,  covered  with  liair,  and  with  a  sword 
in  eatli  lia nd,  or  a  dragon's  head,  with  a  wide  mouth,  huge 
teeth,  and  liery  eyes,  is  placed  over  tlie  door  of  every  house, 
to  keep  all  misfortunes  from  the  inmates.  In  some  cases,  the 
branch  of  a  tree,  or  long  strijis  of  pajier,  inscribed  with  nee 
romantic  characters,  are  enijiloyed  for  the  same  jnupose.  On 
the  high  road,  every  mountain,  hill,  and  cliff,  is  consecrated 
to  some  divinitj'^;  and  at  all  these  })iaces  travellers  have  to 
repeat  prayers,  frequently  several  times  over.  I'ut,  as  the  per- 
formance of  this  duty  would  detain  jiious  travellers  too  long, 
certain  prayiu^  vHichiuta  are  resorted  to.  These  machines 
consist  of  a  post,  set  upriglit  in  the  ground,  with  a  long  verti- 
cal cut  in  it,  about  three  feet  and  a  half  above  the  earth; 
and  in  this  opening  a  flat  round  iron  plate  turns,  like  a  sheave 
in  a  Itlock.  The  prayer  is  engraved  upon  the  plate,  and  to 
turn  it  round  is  equivalent  to  rejieating  the  prayer,  which  is 
supposed  to  be  as  many  times  as  the  plate  turns.  In  this  man- 
ner the  traveller  is  able,  without  stopping,  and  merely  by 
turning  the  jilate  with  his  finger,  to  send  up  to  the  |)resi(ling 
divinity  even  more  prayers  than  he  is  enjoined  to  do  ;  a  nota- 
ble kind  of  supererogation  !* 

Marria<:n  is  celebrated  among  the  Japanese  with  many  ri- 
diculous ceremonies,  and  often  with  gn-at  pomp.  The  juinces 
receive  their  brides  from  the  hands  of  the  sovereign  ;  and  the 
marriases  of  the  vassals  are  regulated  by  their  lords.  Anion* 
the  middle  classes,  in  the  cities,  tiie  business  is  arranged  by 
tlie  parents.  The  wives  bring  no  jiortions,  but  are  purchased 
of  tiieir  parents  and  relations,  to  whom  handsome  daughters, 
or  wards,  are  often  a  great  source  of  wealth.  The  bridegroom 
most  commonly  sees  his  bride,  for  the  first  time,  upon  her  be- 
ing brought  to  Iiis  ludise  from  the  temple,  where  the  nuptial 
ceremony  has  been  performed,  and  where  she  is  closely  veiled 
from  head  to  foot  On  the  wedding  day,  the  bride's  teeth  are 
blackened  with  a  corrosive  lifjuid,  and  they  ever  after  remain 
so:  in  some  parts  of  the  empire,  her  eyebrows  are  also  sha- 
ved off.  After  marriage,  the  wives  of  tJie  ricfi  are  mostly  con- 
fined to  their  own  apartments,  those  of  the  other  clas.ses  visit 
their  relations,  and  appear  in  public,  but  are  distinguished  by 
great  reserve  and  modesty. 

Little  ilifTurinire  fi.ri.tts  brtwaen  tlir  finierni  rerrmo7iirn  of  the 
Japanese  and  those  of  other  orientals.  When  a  prince,  or 
great  man  dies,  ten,  twenty,  or  more  youths  of  his  houseliold, 
juid  such  as  were  his  greatest  favorites,  j)ut  themselves  to  a 
voluntary  death,  at  the  place  of  interment  or  burning.  The 
funeral  pile  consists  of  odoriferous  woods,  gums,  spices,  oils, 
and  other  combustibles ;  as  soon  as  it  is  liglited,  the  relatione 

♦  IVcw  Edinburgh  Encyclopedia. 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.         431 

—  I  ■■■    I  -    —  -^.1  -  ■■-  I. ' 

BIRMAN  EMPIRE. 

and  friends  of  the  deceased  throw  their  offerings  of  clothes, 
arms,  food,  money,  herbs,  and  flowers,  into  the  flames,  im- 
agining they  will  be  of  use  to  him  in  the  other  world.  The 
mausolea,  in  which  the  ashes  of  the  great  are  deposited,  are 
generally  very  magnificent,  and  situated  at  some  distance 
from  the  towns.  The  middle  and  lower  orders  of  the  people 
bury  tiieir  dead  with  no  other  ceremony  than  that  of  burning- 
some  odoriferous  wood  and  gums.  Periodical  visits  are  paid 
to  the  tombs,  and  festivals  are  held  in  honor  of  the  dead.* 


10.  BIRMAN  EMPIRE. 

This  empire,  which  lies  to  the  south  and  southwest  of  China, 
extends  over  what  is  usually  called  India  beyond  the  Ganges, 
and  embraces  various  distinct  nations  or  tribes,  differing 
widely  in  dialect,  physiognomy,  and  cvistoms.  Malte  Brun 
estimates  the  empire  at  "about  1050  geographical  miles  in 
length,  and  600  hi  breadth,  containing,  he  thinks,  194,000  square 
miles.  The  population  has  been  variously  estimated  from 
four  to  seventeen  millions. 

In  their  physiognomy,  the  Birmans  bear  a  nearer  resem- 
blance to  the  Chinese,  than  to  the  natives  of  Hindostan.  The 
women  are  fairer  than  the  Hindoo  females,  but  not  so  deli- 
cately formed ;  they  are,  however,  well  made,  and  in  general 
inclined  to  corpulence ;  their  hair  is  black,  coarse,  and  long.- 
The  men  are  not  tall,  but  active  and  athletic,  and  have  a  very 
youthful  appearance,  from  the  custom  of  plucking  their  beards. 
In  their  temperament,  which  is  lively,  choleric,  and  restless, 
they  present  a  striking  contrast  to  the  hmguid  inactivity  of 
the  Hindoos.  Dr.  Buchanan  describes  them  as  of  a  short, 
squat,  robust,  fleshy  make,  with  a  face  somewhat  in  shape  of 
a  lozenge,  the  forehead  and  chin  being  sharpened,  while  at 
the  cheek  bones  it  is  very  broad.  The  eyebrows  project  very 
little;  the  eyes  are  very  narrow,  and  placed  obliquely,  the  ex- 
ternal angles  being  the  highest;  the  nose  is  small,  but  has  not 
the  flattened  appearance  of  that  feature  in  the  negro ;  the 
nostrils,  circular  and  divergent ;  the  mouth  in  general  well 
shaj>ed :  the  hair  harsh,  lank,  and  black.  Those  who  reside 
in  the  warmest  climate  do  not  acquire  the  deep  hue  of  the 
negro  or  Hindoo;  nor  do  such  as  live  in  the  coldest  coun- 
tries ever  acquire  the  clear  bloom  of  the  liuropean.t 

On  public  days,  days  of  worship,  and  when  visiting,  it  is  an 
object  with  them  to  put  on  the  appearance  of  neatness  in  their 
persons  and  apparel.      The  women  are  usually  dressed  in 

*  Views  of  the  Costumes  and  Peculiarities  of  all  Nations. 
t  Asiatic  Researclies. 


432  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER, 

BIKMAN  EMPIRE. 

long,  loose,  white  cotton  gowns,  with  petticoats  of  cotton,  cot- 
ton and  silk,  or  silk,  of  viiri-colortMl  stripes.  The  men  wear 
gowns  a  little  similar  to  those  of  the  women,  with  cotton  or 
silk  plaid  cloth  decently  wrapped  around  their  loins,  antl  hang- 
ing in  front  below  the  knees.  The  women  wear  their  hair 
collected  into  a  knot  on  the  hack  part  of  th(>  head,  while  the 
men  twist  thcir.s  into  a  spiral  loi  ni  upon  the  to]),  encircling  the 
head  either  with  a  checkered  or  a  white  muslin  kerchief,  fold- 
ed to  a  narrow  width.  The  men  commonly  tattoo  themselves 
with  various  figmes  upon  the  thighs,  the  abdomen,  and  the 
loins.  The  shoes  of  both  sexes  i)rotect  only  the  sole  of  the 
foot,  having  two  loops,  into  which  the  great  toe  and  the  (»ther 
four  are  inserted;  they  are  niaimfactured  of  wood,  or  hides. 
The  women,  to  render  themselves  more  attractive,  rub  their 
faces  with  a  fine  powder,  made  of  the  bark  of  a  species  of 
sandal  higlily  odoriferous,  and  sometimes  color,  with  a  beau- 
tiful red,  tile  nails  of  their  lingers  and  toes. 

In  Iheconslruction  of  their  dwtllhig  hovsrs.  bamboo,  of  which 
there  are  several  sj^ecies,  and  in  great  abundance,  is  the  i)rin- 
cipal,  and  in  manj'  instances,  the  only  material,  used.     Holes, 
two  or  three  feet  deep  in  the  earth,  receive  tl.e  posts,  which 
are  more  or  fewer  according  to  the  size  of  the  houses.     Mat.s, 
made  of  split  b;imboos,  form  the  oiUside  covering,  inside  )iar- 
titions,  and  sometimes  the  floor.     liut  conunoniy  the  latter  is 
made  by  splitting  the  material  into  quarters,  laying  them  down 
in  a  series,  and  tyin^r  them  to  the  transverse  poles  with  s))!;t 
)attans.     Leaves  of  the  iN'ipah  tree,  called  here  dintce,  compose 
t!ie  roof;  and  a  house  not  |)o.sitively  uncomfortable,  and  svifh- 
ciently  cajiacious  for  a  small  family,  is  constructed  at  the  mod- 
erate expense  of  thirty  or  forty  rupees.     Men  of  high  rank 
and  ample  means  build  tlieir  f.onses  in  Ihc  sanu'  A^rm  with 
))<ists  of  t(\ik  ;  the  sides,  partitions,  and  floors  are  boaids  f)f 
the  same  wood,  and  tiie  roof  is   made  either  of  leaves  or  of 
Hat  tiles.     These  tiles  are  burnt  like  bricks,  each  about  eight 
inches  long,  five  broad,  and  nearly  one  thick,  jutting  over  at 
tlie  head  aboiit  an  incli,  by  v.hich  they  retain  their  positions 
upon  the  rafters.     They  are  laid  double,  the  lower  edges  of 
one  series  projecting  over  and  lying  up(»n  the  heads  of  the  next 
lower  .series;  thtis  forming  a  defence  from  wind  and  rain,  and 
presenting  a   gr)od   degree  of  security  from   exterior  lires. 
The  monasteries  Jire  built  in  the  same  maimer,  having  two  or 
three   roofs  elevated   one  above   an()ther,   and   in   many  in- 
stances, their  cornices,  angles,  and  eaves  ornamented  with 
carved  work  of  flowers,  figures  of  elephants,  of  priests,  and 
of  other  forms  v,  hicii  have  no  existence  but  in  the  supi.-rstition 
of  the  i)eo|)!e.     Th.e    po:^lS  of  the  hou.'»os  and   monasteries, 
being  inserted  from  two  to  four  or  five  feet  in  the  gifnind,  are 
9u!)ject  to  the  depredations  of  white  ants,  and  to  ra))id  decfiy. 
The  old  palace  at  Ainarapoora  is  l)uilt  of  teak  :  the  ronf^i  pilerl 
upon  each  other  to  a  cjieat  height,  and  dimini.-^hiiig  in  size  as 


Persian  of  lug h  Rank.         P.  4(W. 


Fc  siiiii  S/holiing.         P.  402. 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  433 

MANNERS  AND  CUSTOMS. 

they  ascend,  present  the  appearance  of  a  lofty  spire.  The 
exterior  and  interior  posts  are  covered  with  goldleaf,  and  tha 
whole  exhibits  a  resplendent  object  to  the  beholder.  His  pres- 
ent majesty,  who  ascended  the  throne  of  his  grandfather 
about  June,  1819,  has  since  built  a  new  palace  at  Ava,  a  few 
miles  below  tlie  former  capital,  of  which  he  took  possession 
about  March,  1824.  The  pagodas  are  solid  masses  of  mason- 
ry, varying  in  height,  of  a  conical  form,  covered  with  plaster, 
composed  of  sand  and  lime,  and  many  of  them  with  goldleaf. 
The  large  pagoda  situated  about  a  mile  and  a  haTf  to  the 
N.  W.  of  Rangoon,  and  called  Shua-dagon  Parah^  is  a  splen- 
did and  magnificent  monument  of  heathen  superstition  and 
idolatry.  According  to  its  history,  the  foundation  was  laid 
soon  after  the  supposed  annihilation  of  Gautama.  If  this  be 
true,  it  must  have  existed  for  a  period  of  about  2,300  years. 
Since  its  erection,  its  size  has  been  increased  by  successive 
additions. 

From  the.  above  description  of  their  dwelling  houses,  the  tran- 
sition is  easy  to  a  correct  inference  relative  to  the  furniture 
which  they  contain.  A  few  mats  answer  the  purpose  of  beds, 
couches,  chairs,  and  tables  ;  and  two  or  three  wooden  plates, 
of  Birman  manufacture,  or  of  coarse  earthenware  imported, 
form  the  breakfast  and  dinner  service.  A  small  box  or  two, 
or  as  many  baskets,  contain  the  wardrobe  of  the  family. 
Those,  however,  wiio  have  the  means,  indulge  themselves  in 
the  use  of  abedstead.  Although,  in  their  houses  and  persons, 
the  appearance  of  cleanliness  is  not  very  striking,  yet,  in  this 
respect,  they  are  on  a  par  with  their  western  neighbors.  But 
this  is  not  saying  much  in  their  favor  ;  they  certainly  do  not 
exhibit,  particularly  in  their  houses,  any  special  regard  to 
neatness ;  nor,  on  the  other  hand,  can  they  be  considered  as 
inattentive  to  personal  appearance.  Both  sexes  enjoy  the 
comfort  of  frequent  bathing.  They  are  much  addicted  to  the 
practice  of  chewing  betel ;  and  in  the  disposition  of  the  saliva, 
they  are  not  particularly  nice.  The  more  respectable  class 
accommodate  themselves  with  pig-dannies  and  betel  boxes, 
the  bearers  of  which  are  in  constant  attendance.  The^e  mate- 
rials are  of  gold,  silver,  or  less  valuable  metal,  according  to  the 
rank  or  circumstances  of  those  who  use  them.  They  univer- 
sally anoint  the  head  with  oil ;  and  as  the  hair  is  permitted  to 
grow  to  its  natural  length  and  density,  without  the  frequent 
application  of  a  comb,  a  convenient  situation  is  afforded  for 
the  accommodation  of  vermin ;  and  as  the  Birman  religion 
prohibits  the  destruction  of  life,  their  propagation  is  seldom 
interrupted,  except  by  casualties. 

In  the  management  of  internal  household  affairs,  the  wife 

takes  the  principal  share.    She  goes  herself  to  the  market,  or 

directs  purchases  to  be  made,  and  superintends  the  cooking, 

or  does  it  with  her  own  hands.    As  opportunity  presents,  she 

37 


434  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

BIRMAN   EMPIRE. 

brinsrs  in  her  contribution  to  the  domestic  establishment,  by 
spinning,  weaving,  traflickintf  in  bazar  articles,  or  l)y  keeping 
a  shop  and  vendinif  merchandise.  In  conducting  the  general 
family  concerns,  she  is  by  no  means  excluded  ;  her  judgment 
is  consulted,  given  with  perfect  freedom,  and  seldom  entirely 
disregarded.  The  female  branches  of  the  family  are  not  re- 
cluses here,  neither  are  they  reserved  or  shy  in  their  manners  ; 
they  form  a  constituent  part  of  domestic  and  public  society. 
They  esteem  it  happy  to  become  mothers,  but  consider  the 
birth  ofasonasa  more  fortunate  event  than  that  of  a  daughter. 
They  in  general  nurse  their  children  till  they  arrive  at  the  age 
of  three  or  four.  As  they  are  seldom  blessed  with  a  numer- 
ous progeny,  the  increase  of  population  is  slow.  The  wife  ot 
a  judge  or  governor  is  often  seen  at  his  side,  assisting  in  the 
decision  of  causes  ;  and  the  wives  of  viceroys  and  other  high 
officers  are  often  permitted  to  hold  their  own  courts,  and  de- 
cide independently  on  petitions  presented  to  them.  Women 
of  all  ranks  enjoy  a  high  degree  of  freedom,  appear  abroad 
unveiled  whenever  they  choose,  ornamented  according  to  the 
taste  and  fashion  of  the  country,  and  add  zest  to  public  scenes 
of  amusement  by  their  presence  and  gayety. 

In  the  formation  of  their  malrimonidl  cnnne.riona,  there  is 
generally  an  approi)riate  preface  of  personal  acquaintance  and 
plighted  love.  In  the  ceremony  of  marriage,  little  expense  is 
incurred  either  of  time  or  money.  A  feast  of  good  things,  ac- 
cording to  the  atiilit)'  of  the  bridegroom,  is  prepareil,  in  which 
the  assembled  family  connexions  participate.  The  married 
pair  taste  a  mixture  of  the  tea-leaf  steepeil  in  oil,  (which  is  the 
form  of  sealing  all  contracts, )  eat  together  from  the  same  plate, 
and,  exchanging  their  reciprocal  promises,  they  twain  are 
made  one  flesh.  Unfortunately,  however,  for  the  perpetuity 
of  conjugal  felicity,  in  nf)  country,  perhaps,  is  the  marriage 
contract  regarded  with  so  little  respect,  or  maintained  with  so 
little  propriety,  as  in  Birmah.  No  disgrace  is  attached  to  a 
divorced  husband  or  wife.  Slight  occasions  originate  verbal 
al)use,  and  these  quarrels  are  ofttMi  i)rotractfd  till  both  parties 
seek  that  remedy  which  is  to  l)e  found,  in  their  country,  in  any 
common  court  of  justice.  Polygamy  in  not  only  alk»wed,  but 
abounds  in  this  country.  Money  is  not  offered  to  obtain  a 
female  as  a  wife,  but  for  the  purchase  of  bondn)aids  as  con- 
cubines. If  a  concubine  of  this  sort  wishes  to  be  leleasetl,  the 
terms  of  her  departure  are  made  easy.  A  high  sense  of 
female  chastity  not  being  prevalent,  the  consequences  are 
obvious.  The  male  sex  conceive  themselves  by  nature, 
both  |ihysicaily  and  mentally,  the  superior;  hence  are  seen 
lordships  in  the  one  sex,  and  subjection  in  the  other.  A 
brother  exercises  over  a  sister,  and  a  husband  over  a  wife, 
control  at  pleasure,  and  applies,  if  need  require,  the  shoe,  the 
rod,  the  foot,  the  palm  of  the  hand,  or  even  the  point  of  the 
elbow,  to  correct  the  forwardness  or  obstinacy  of  the  weaker 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  435 

fci  — — __^_^_— _ 

CHARACTER — TRAVELLING. 

vessel.    Among  the  higher  and  more  poUte  circles,  however, 
*his  right  is  not  so  much  exercised  as  acknowledged. 

Generosity  and  hospitality  are  not  among  the  practical  vir- 
tues of  the  Birmans ;  on  the  contrary,  they  are  cold-hearted, 
unfeeling,  and  suspicious,  contemplating  misery  and  suffering, 
in  whatever  form,  with  apathy.  No  public  institutions  of  be- 
nevolence appear  to  proclaim  a  general  interest  in  the  comfort 
or  convenience  of  the  less  happy.  Avarice  and  selfishness, 
the  two  ruling  passions  of  the  Birmans,  preclude  the  exercise 
of  right  feelings  towards  others.  To  the  existence  of  such  a 
state  of  feeling  it  is  probable  the  nature  of  the  government  con- 
tributes. The  petty  acts  of  tyranny  practised  by  the  subor- 
dinate civil  officers,  are  a  terror  to  the  public,  and  create  be- 
tween man  and  man  that  jealousy  and  suspicion  which  destroy 
confidence,  and  annihilate  the  best  feelings  of  humanity.  The 
writer*  of  this  article,  beheld  in  the  eastern  road  leading  from 
the  town  of  Rangoon  to  the  great  pagoda,  a  Birman  lying  on 
the  ground  under  the  suspension  of  his  faculties  by  a  fit.  He 
fell  while  walking  with  a  companion,  which  was  no  sooner  dis- 
covered by  the  latter,  than  he  departed  with  all  possible  speed. 
No  individual  approached  the  miserable  sufferer.  The  writer, 
not  aware  of  any  evil  consequence,  went  towards  him,  when 
several  voices  from  individuals  at  a  distance  urged  him  to  re- 
tire. On  inquiring  their  reasons,  they  replied:  "you  will  meet 
with  difficulty  from  government;  theman  may  report  that  he 
has  been  deprived  of  something,  and  you  may  be  called  upon 
to  answer  as  a  thief"  This  was  an  effectual  check  to  any 
offer  of  assistance.  In  such  a  state  of  things  there  can  be 
found  little  benevolence,  kindness,  or  hospitality  in  exercise, 
particularly  towards  strangers. 

Travelling  by  boats,  which  affords  the  greatest  personal 
comfort,  presents  the  danger  of  bands  of  robbers,  who  often 
attack  with  knives  and  muskets,  and  make  a  "clear  sweep"  of 
whatever  portable  effects  can  be  seized,  to  the  jeopardy,  and 
frequently  to  the  destruction  of  the  lives  of  their  possessors. 
It  is  but  just  to  add,  however,  that  the  view  which  these  re- 
marks would  otherwise  present,  should  in  some  respects  be 
qualified.  There  are  recognised  among  the  Birmans,  friendly 
relations  and  ties  of  consanguinity,  which,  in  private  life,  are 
seen  so  to  operate  as  to  soften  in  some  degree  the  sterner  fea- 
tures of  their  public  character.  Among  relatives  and  fi-iends, 
between  whom  there  is  a  mutual  and  thorough  acquaintance, 
feeluigs  which  originate  generous  actions,  the  duties  of  hos- 
pitality, kind  deportment  and  sympathy,  prevail  over  those 
views  of  mere  personal  consideration,  which  govern  the  gen- 
eral course  of  their  lives  in  their  civil  connexion  with  one 
another.    They  are  certainly  not  incapable  of  strong  attach- 

♦Rev.  G.  H.  Hough,  author  of  "The  Friend  in  India." 


436  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

NEW  HOLLAND. 

ments;  and  could  their  public  character  be  formed  in  a  dif- 
ferent mould  from  that  in  which  their  system  of  government 
has  already  cast  it,  they  would  be  by  no  means  destitute  ol 
those  elementary  principles  which  combine  to  form  the  hap- 
piness of  civilized  society. 

Their  funeral  solemnities  are  conducted  with  decency.  The 
manner  of  disposing  of  the  dead  is  either  by  incineration  or 
burial:  the  former  is  esteemed  the  most  honorable.  The 
corpse  is  enclosed  in  a  coffin,  ornamented  with  gohlleaf  or 
otherwise,  according  to  the  means  of  the  friends  of  the  de- 
ceased, and  followed  by  the  mourners  dressed  in  white,  is 
borne  to  the  public  place  of  interment,  (which  is  without  the 
city  or  town,)  the  procession  being  usually  precedtul  by  the 
music  of  wind  instruments  and  drums,  and  the  jiresents  in- 
tended for  the  jiriests  who  may  be  invited  on  the  occasion. 
These  presents  usually  consist  of  pieces  of  cotton  cloth,  su- 
gar cane,  and  fruits  of  various  kincls.  On  their  arrival  at  the 
place  of  incineration,  fuel  is  placed  under  the  coffin,  the  move- 
able ornaments  being  first  taken  away  ;  and  the  corpse  is  con- 
sumed, after  which  the  bones  are  inlt-rred.  Infants  and  crimi- 
nals are  buried,  as  also  the  poorest  part  of  the  Community. 
All  funeral  processions  must  pass  out  of  the  city  by  a  par- 
ticular gate,  called  the  funeral  gate ;  and  no  corpse  must  be 
carried  towards  a  city  or  town  where  the  governors  usually 
reside.  The  banks  of'^the  Irrawaddy  are  not  silected  for  the 
performance  of  funeral  obsequies,  like  tlie  banks  of  tlie  Gan- 
ges :  neither  are  its  waters  regarded  as  possessing  any  sacre<l 
qualities,  nor  are  they  in  the  least  degree  the  object  of  super 
stitious  reverence.* 


11.  NEW   HOLLAND. 

This  is  the  largest  island  on  the  globe,  and  on  account  of 
its  great  extent,  has  by  some  geographers  been  styled  a  conti- 
nent. It  is  situated  in  the  south  Pacific  ocean,  Lat.  11  to  49, 
Lon.  110  to  153  E.  The  eastern  sid(\  which  Ix-longs  to  Gn\it 
Britain,  is  called  Nixr  Smtik  Hairs.  In  this  district  the  Eng- 
lish have  a  vniua!>le  and  thriving  colony,  formed,  in  the  first 
instance,  by  the  exiled  felons  ;  but  of  late  years,  the  settlement 
has  been  incn-ased  and  improved  by  a  number  of  voluntary 
emigrants  from  tin-  parent  state. 

The  aborigines  of  this  country,  who  dwell  in  the  vicinity  of 
the  European  settlements,  are  still  in  a  state  of  nature  ;  and, 
although  forty  years  have  elapsed  since  their  first  intercours» 

♦  Modern  Traveller 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  437 


ABORIGINES. 


with  the  British  colonists,  they  are  so  far  from  having  been 
benefited  by  the  acquaintance,  that  men  and  women  are  to  be 
seen  in  the  streets  of  the  colonial  towns,  in  a  complete  state  of 
nudity.  This  is  the  more  surprising,  as  they  are  very  inge- 
nious, and  are  possessed  of  accurate  ol)scrvation,  and  a  quick 
perception.  In  their  persons,  they  are  more  diminutive  and 
slighter  made  than  Europeans ;  in  general-,  they  cannot  be 
said  to  be  well  shaped,  yet  instances  of  absolute  deformity  are 
very  rare  among  them.  Their  color  is  not  in  all  cases  the 
same  ;  some  are  nearly  as  black  as  the  African  negro;  others 
are  of  the  copper,  or  Malay  hue.  Their  hair  is  generally 
black,  but  sometimes  of  a  reddish  cast.  A  high  forehead, 
with  prominent  overhanging  eyebrows,  gives  them  an  air  of 
resolute  dignity,  which  recommends  them,  in  spite  of  their 
negro  nose,  thick  lips,  and  wide  mouth.  Their  hands  and  feet 
are  small ;  their  eyes  full,  black  and  piercing;  the  tone  of  their 
voice  is  loud,  but  not  harsh.  The  women  are  proportionably 
smaller  than  the  men  ;  and  that  feminine  delicacy  which  is 
found  among  white  people  may  be  traced  upon  their  sable 
cheeks.  In  common  with  all  other  nations,  these  people  en- 
deavor to  heighten  their  personal  attractions,  by  adventitious 
embellishments.  They  cannot,  indeed,  do  this  by  the  finery 
of  clothing,  for  they  are  naked;  but  they  thrust  a  stick,  or  a 
bone,  through  the  septum  of  the  nose,  decorate  their  hair  with 
shark's  teeth,  and  scarify  their  bodies  ;  the  charms  of  which 
are  supposed  to  increase  in  proportion  to  the  number  and  mag- 
nitude of  the  seams  by  which  they  are  distinguished.  Both 
sexes  besmear  their  bodies  with  different  colors  :  but  red  and 
white  are  most  in  use.  The  muscular  force  of  these  people  is 
not  great ;  but  the  pliancy  of  their  limbs  renders  them  active. 
Those  who  live  on  the  sea  coast  depend  on  fish  for  their  sub- 
sistence; if  a  dead  whale  be  cast  on  shore,  they  flock  to  it  in 
great  numbers,  and  feast  sumptuously  till  the  bones  are  well 
picked.  Their  substitute  for  bread  is  a  species  of  fern,  which, 
being  roasted,  and  pounded  between  two  stones,  is  mixed  with 
fish,  and  constitutes  the  chief  part  of  their  food.  Those  who 
dwell  in  the  woods,  maintain  a  half-famished  life  by  the  chase, 
or  by  ensnaring  the  beasts  of  the  forests.  Their  habitations 
are  of  the  rudest  construction.  The  hut  of  the  woodman  is 
made  of  the  bark  of  a  single  tree,  bent  in  the  middle,  and 
placed  on  its  two  ends  upon  the  ground,  affording  shelter  only 
to  one  miserable  tenant.  On  thesea  coast,  the  huts  are  larger, 
and  formed  of  pieces  of  bark  from  several  trees,  put  together 
in  the  form  of  an  oven,  large  enough  to  contain  six  or  seven 
people.  At  the  entrance  of  this  hut,  rather  within  than  with- 
out, the  fire  is  made ;  so  that  the  interior  is  always  smoke 
dried  and  filthy. 

The  New  Hollanders  are  supposed  to  acknowledge  the  ex- 
istence of  a  Supreme  Power;  and  their  dread  of  spirits  indi- 
cates their  belief  in  a  future  state.     If  asked  where  their  de- 
ceased  friends  are,  they  always   point  to  the  sky.      They 
37* 


438  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

NEW  HOLLAND. 

believe  that  particular  aspects  of  the  iieavenly  bodies  indicate 
good  or  evil  consequences  to  themselves  or  friends.  And 
when  they  see  the  lijjhtninf;  glare,  and  hear  the  thunder  roll, 
they  rush  out  and  deprecate  destruction,  but  do  n(»t  attonijit 
to  flee.  They  have  a  dance  and  s.ong  appropriated  to  such 
awful  occasions,  consisting  of  wild  and  uncouth  noises  and 
gestures. 

Nearly  ail  the  natives  have  a  peculiar  talent  for  mimicry  ; 
the  singularities  of  the  colonists  are  represented  by  them  with 
great  correctness.  They  are  also  great  proficients  in  the  vul- 
gar language  of  the  convicts  ;  and  in  case  of  any  quarrel,  are 
by  no  means  unequal  to  them  in  the  exchange  of  abuse.  But 
this  is  the  sum  total  of  their  acquisitions  from  European  inter- 
course. They  are  still  as  unprotected  as  ever  against  the  in- 
clemency of  the  weather,  and  ec|ually  unprovided  for  the  vicis- 
situdes of  plenty  and  famine.  The  fact  is,  they  liate  labor, 
and  place  their  iiapjiiness  in  listless  inaction :  hence  the  arts 
of  civilized  life,  which  require  application  and  industry,  have 
no  charms  for  the  indolent  New  Hollander. 

Intrepidity  is  a  marked  feature  in  their  character ;  but  they 
are  alsb  volatile,  ficklf,  and  passionate.  They  are  sudden  in 
quarrel,  yet  not  implacable  in  their  desire  of  revenge.  When 
a  person  is  slain,  either  in  a  pitched  battle,  or  in  one  of  those 
hasty  quarrels,  which  frequently  arise  anuuig  tluMii,  the  survi- 
vor is  obliged  to  stand  in  his  own  defence,  for  a  certain  num- 
ber of  spears  to  be  thrown  at  him  t)y  the  friends  or  relatives  of 
the  decea.sed  ;  if  he  escape  alive,  the  matter  ends;  but  should 
he  be  killed,  his  antagonist  must  undergo  a  similar  ordeal. 
Their  honesty,  when  tempted  by  novelty,  is  not  unimpeacha- 
ble ;  but  among  themselves  there  is  good  reason  to  believe 
that  few  breaches  of  this  virtue  occur.  They  pay  no  regard 
to  truth,  when  their  interest  seems  tf)  lead  them  to  dissimulate. 
Like  most  other  savages,  their  sight  and  hearing  are  so  acute, 
that  th«»y  can  distinguish  objects  which  would  totally  escape  a 
European.  In  their  conflicts  with  each  other,  they  use  spears 
and  shields;  the  former  are  made  of  the  bulrush,  and  pointed 
with  hard  wiiod;  the  latter  are  only  of  bark  ;  and  the  spears 
are  thrown  with  such  force  as  freriuenlly  to  jiierce  them. 
Dexterity  in  throwing  and  parrying  the  spear  is  considered  as 
the  highest  acquirement;  children  of  both  sexes  practise  it 
from  the  time  tiiey  are  able  to  throw  a  rush  ;  and  they  become 
such  sure  nuirksmen,  that  they  will  bring  down  a  bird,  not 
larger  than  a  pigeon,  at  the  distance  of  thirty  yards.  If  a 
spear  drop  from  them  when  engaged  in  a  contest,  they  do 
not  stop  t»>  pick  it  u|),  but  hook  it  between  their  toes,  and  lift 
it  till  it  meet  the  hand;  thus  the  eye  is  never  diverted  from 
the  foe. 

Their  canoes,  composed  of  the  bark  of  trees,  tied  together 
m  small  splinters,  are  miserable  vehicles,  usually  half  filled 
with  water;  and  nothing  but  the  natural  buoyancy  of  the  ma- 
terials could  prevent  them  from  sinking.     In  this  crazy  kind 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  439 

NEW  ZEALAND. 

of  craft,  a  whole  family  may  frequently  be  seen  fishing ;  a  fire 
of  embers  is  usually  kept  in  the  middle  of  the  canoe,  and  the 
.  fish  they  catch,  after  being  warmed  sufficiently  for  the  scales 
to  be  rubbed  off,  is  devoured  as  soon  as  taken. 

No  form  of  government  exists  among  these  people,  nor  have 
they  any  person  whom  they  acknowledge  as  a  chief  The  on- 
ly superiority  among  them  arises  from  personal  strength  and 
courage.  A  man,  in  general,  has  but  one  wife,  who  is  con- 
demned to  the  most  servile  labor,  and  treated  with  the  utmost 
brutality.  If  her  husband  be  angry  with  her,  he  either  spears 
her,  or  knocks  her  down  by  a  blow  on  the  head  with  a  hatchet, 
club,  or  any  other  weapon  that  may  chance  to  be  in  his  hand. 
They  either  bury  or  burn  their  dead;  and  commit  the  arms 
and  "utensils  of  the  deceased -to  the  grave,  or  the  pile;  after 
wiiich  his  name  is  never  mentioned. 

Such  -is  the  general  character  of  the  native  inhabitants 
found  in  the  vicinity  of  the  British  settlements.  They  seem  to 
be  of  various  origins,  for  they  differ  in  color,  as  w^ell  as  lan- 
guage ;  and  there  can  be  little  doubt  but  that  the  immense 
tracts  of  land  in  the  interior  are  occupied  by  numerous  races, 
differing  from  these,  as  well  as  from  each  other.  Indeed,  in 
the  latesurvey  of  the  country  westward  of  the  settlements,  a 
people  were  found,  who  spake  a  different  language  from  those 
with  whom  the  colonists  had  been  previously  acquainted,  and 
were  clothed  in  kangaroo  skins,  neatly  sewed  together  with 
the  sinews  of  the  emu.  The  fur  was  worn  inwards,  and  the 
outside  was  ingeniously  marked  with  various  devices,  among 
which  the  cross  was  the  most  prominent.  Their  subsistence 
was.  chiefly  derived  from  the  animals  of  the  forests  and  the 
fish  of  the  rivers;  and  they  seemed  to  manifest  less  of  the 
savage  disposition  that  distinguishes  the  natives  near  the 
eastern  shore. 


12.  NEW  ZEALAND. 


NeiP  ZeaJaml  comprises  two  islands  to  the  southeast  of  New 
Holland,  which  together  contain  95,000  English  miles  square 
and  are  separated  by  a  narrow  strait.  They  were  first  dia 
covered  in  1642,  by  a  distinguished  Dutch  navigator  by  the 
name  of  Tasman.  No  record  exists  of  any  vessel  visiting 
New  Zealand  for  more  than  a  century  following  Tasman's 
discovery.  In  1769,  the  Islands  were  seen  and  visited  by  Capt. 
Cook  on  his  return  from  the  Society  Isles,  in  the  course  of  his 
circumnavigation  of  the  globe.  Since  Cook's  time,  the  New 
Zealanders  have  attracted  a  large  portion  of  public  attention. 
They  are  in  several  respects  a  remarkable  people,  presenting 
a  striking  contrast  to  the  luxurious  Otaheitans,  and  the  misera- 
ble outcasts  of  Australia.     Their  first  intercourse  with  Euro- 


440  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

NEW  ZEALAND. 

peans  was  marked  by  indcponclonce  and  resistance.  They 
gave  blow  for  blow.  They  did  not  .stand  still  to  be  slauj^h 
lered  like  the  Peruvians  by  th(^  Spaniard.^,  but  they  tried  the 
strength  of  the  club  against  the  flash  of  th(>  nnisket.  The  fol- 
lowing incident,  which  occurred  the  second  day  after  Cook's 
first  arrival  at  the  Island,  will  serve  to  show  their  bold  and 
daring  spirit.  Being  in  want  of  fresh  water,  Cof»k  had  set  out 
with  his  boats  well  manned  to  make  the  circuit  of  a  bay  in 
seaixh  for  some.  On  their  way  they  met  a  fishing  canoe  com- 
ing in  from  the  sea,  having  seven  people  on  board,  four  men 
and  three  boys.  As  soon  as  the  New  Zealanders  perceived 
the  boats,  which  tiiey  did  not  do  till  they  were  almost  in  the 
midst  of  them,  they  took  to  their  paddles,  and  plied  them  so 
briskly  that  they  would  actually  have  effected  their  escape, 
had  not  Cook  ordered  a  musket  to  be  find  over  their  heads, 
thinking  this  would  prol)ably  make  thcni  surrender.  Rut  un- 
fortunately it  had  not  that  effect ;  for  although,  on  the  discharge 
of  the  piece,  they  immediately  ceased  padidling,  and  began  to 
strip,  it  was  only  (hat,  unequal  as  was  the  contest,  they  might 
meet  and  figiit  their  assailants.  They  themselves,  indeed,  as 
soon  as  the  boat  came  up,  commenced  the  attack  with  their 
paddles,  and  what  other  weapons  they  had  with  them  ;  and  so 
obstinate  was  the  resistance  they  made,  that  the  scuffle  did  not 
end  till  the  four  men  were  killed,  a  circumstance  which  Cook 
afterwards  greatly  regretted.  On  this,  the  boys,  the  eldest  of 
whom  was  about  nineteen,  and  the  youngest  about  eleven, 
instantly  leaped  into  the  water  ;  but  evcMi  here,  they  contitiued 
their  resistance  by  every  means  in  their  power,  until  they  were 
at  last  taken  up  and  placed  in  the  boat. 

The  New  Zealanders  are  in  general  a  tall  race  of  men,  many 
of  th(>  individu.'ds  belf)nging  to  the  upjier  classes  being  six  feet 
high  and  upwaids.  They  are  also  described  as  strong,  active, 
and  almost  uniformly  well  shaped.  Their  hair  is  commonly 
straight,  but  sometimes  curly.  Crozet  says  he  saw  a  few  of 
them  with  red  hair.  Cook  describes  the  females  as  far  from 
attractive;  but  other  ol)servers  give  a  more  fiatteiing  account 
of  them.  Mr.  Savage,  for  example,  assui  es  us  that  their  fea- 
tures are  regular  an(i  pleasing ;  and  he  seems  to  have  been 
much  struck  by  their  long  l)lack  hair,  and  dark  jieuetrating 
eyes,  as  well  as  their  well-f'oiined  figure  the  inten-sting  cast  of 
the  countenance,  and  the  sweet  tone  of  their  voice.  Captain 
Cruise's  testimony  is  almost  equally  favorable.  They  are  dis- 
tingiiished  from  each  other  by  a  very  considerable  diversity 
in  the  shades  of  what  maj'  !)e  called  the  common  hue.  Crozet 
divides  them  into  three  classes,  "  Whites,  l)rowiis,  and  blacks." 
Tilt-  whites  he  considers  the  original  inhabitants  of  the  court- 
try  ;  the  browns  and  blacks,  to  be  foreign  admixtures,  receiv- 
ed from  the  neighboring  continent  of  New  Holland.  Whether 
Crozet  be  correct  or  not,  it  is  certain  that  in  some  parts  of 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  441 

DRESS FOOD. 

New  Zealand,  the  natives  are  much  fairer  than  in  others. 
Cook  remarks,  in  the  accoimt  of  his  first  voyage,  that  the  peo- 
ple about  the  Bay  of  Islands  seemed  darker  than  those  he  had 
seen  farther  to  the  south;  and  their  color  generally  is  after- 
wards described  as  varying  from  a  pretty  deep  black  to  a  yel- 
lowish or  olive  tinge. 

The  dress  of  the  two  sexes  is  exactly  «the  same,  and  consists 
of  an  inner  mat  or  tunic,  fastened  by  a  girdle  round  their 
waists,  and  an  upper  cloak,  which  is  made  of  very  coarse 
materials  for  ordinary  wear ;  but  is  of  a  much  finer  fabric,  and 
often,  indeed,  elaborately  ornamented,  when  intended  for  oc- 
casions of  display.  Both  these  articles  of  attire  are  always 
made  of  the  native  flax.  The  New  Zealanders  wear  no  cov- 
ering either  for  the  head  or  feet,  the  feathers  with  which  both 
sexes  ornamented  the  head  being  excepted.  The  chieftain 
decorates  his  head  with  plumes,  and  is  doubtless  proud  of  the 
graceful  distinction,  both  as  a  token  of  his  rank,  and  adding  ele- 
gance and  majesty  to  his  figure.  His  dress  mantle  is  also 
elaborately  embroidered ;  and  both  sexes  often  wear  curiously 
carved  combs  in  their  hair,  and  clusters  of  ornaments  sus- 
pended from  their  ears,  and  round  their  necks.  The  men, 
indeed,  as  well  as  the  women,  are  fond  of  dress  ;  and  show  all 
the  vanity  of  children,  when  they  are  more  gayly  arrayed  than 
usual.  To  ar  chief,  Mr.  Nicholas  relates,  who  came  on  board 
the  Active,  while  she  was  passing  the  North  Cape,  on  her  way 
to  the  Bay  of  Islands,  Mr.  Marsden  presented  a  piece  of  India 
print,  which  quite  transported  him  with  delight;  he  gazed  on 
the  figures  with  the  most  vivid  amazement,  and  throwing  it 
over  his  shoulders,  strutted  about  the  deck  with  his  whole 
soul  absorbed  in  his  splendid  bedizenment.  On  a  subsequent 
occasion,  Mr.  Nicholas  being  on  shore,  and  engaged  in  ma- 
king some  purchases  from  the  natives,  was  assailed  by  an  old 
man,  who  offered  him  a  large  mat  for  his  coat.  The  proposed 
exchange  having  been  agreed  to,  was  immediately  made,  and 
our  author  having  wrapped  himself  up  in  the  New  Zealand 
garment,  the  other  put  on  the  coat.  No  sooner  had  he  got  it 
adjusted  on  his  person,  than  the  whole  being  of  the  savage 
seemed  to  have  undergone  a  change  ;  instead  of  a  figure  bent 
with  age,  and  a  grave  and  circumspect  demeanor,  he  now  ex- 
hibited the  erect  port  of  a  man  in  the  spring  of  life,  and  at  the 
same  time  a  sprightliness  and  affected  ease,  and  frivolity  of 
manner,  which  were  meant  to  be  quite  captivating,  and  were 
certainly  indescribably  ludicrous.  His  countrymen  were  at 
first  so  much  amazed  at  his  sudden  metamorphosis,  that  they 
seemed  to  doubt  his  identity ;  but  they  soon  felt  the  full  absurd- 
ity of  the  spectacle  he  exhibited,  and  greeted  him  with  peals 
of  lau2;hter. 


'O' 


The  food  upon  which  the  New  Zealanders  principally  live, 
is  the  root  of  the  fern  plant,  which  grows  all  over  the  coun- 


442  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

NEW  ZKALAND. 

try.*  This  root,  somctimt^s  swallowed  entirely,  and  some- 
times only  masticated,  and  the  fibres  rejected  after  the  juice 
has  been  extracted,  serves  the  New  Zealanders  not  only  for 
bread,  but  even  occasionally  for  a  meal  by  itself  When  fish  are 
used,  they  do  not  appear,  as  in  many  other  countries,  to  be  eaten 
raw,  but  are  always  cooked,  either  by  being  fixed  upon  a  stick 
stuck  in  the  [ground,  and  so  exposed  to  the  fire,  or  by  beinj^ 
folded  in  green  leaves,  and  then  laid  between  heated  stones  to 
bake.  But  little  of  any  other  animal  food  is  consumed,  birds 
being  killed  chiefly  for  their  feathers,  and  pigs  being  produced 
on  days  of  special  festivity.  The  first  pigs  were  left  in  New 
Zealand  by  Captain  Cook,  who  made  many  attempts  to  stock 
the  country  both  with  this  and  other  useful  animals,  most  of 
wiiom,  however,  were  so  much  neglected  that  they  soon  disap- 
peareci.  Cook  likewise,  as  has  already  been  mentioned,  intro- 
duced the  potato  into  New  Zealand,  and  that  valuable  root 
appears  to  be  now  pretty  generally  cultivated  throughout  the 
northdtn  island.  The  only  agricultural  implements,  however, 
which  the  natives  possess,  are  of  the  rudt?st  description ;  that 
with  which  they  dig  their  potatoes  being  merely  a  wooden 
pole,  with  a  cross-bar  of  the  same  material  fixed  to  it,  about 
three  feet  from  the  ground.  Mr.  Marsden  saw  the  wives  of 
several  of  the  chiefs,  toiling  hard  in  the  fields  with  no  better 
spade  than  this;  among  others,  the  head  wife  of  the  great 
.Shunghie,  wlio,  although  quite  blind,  appeared  to  dig  the 
ground,  he  says,  as  fast  as  those  who  had  their  sight,  and  as 
well,  first  pulling  up  the  weeds  as  she  went  along  with  her 
hands,  then  setting  her  feet  upon  them  that  she  might  know 
where  they  were  ;  and,  finally  after  she  had  broken  the  soil, 
throwing  the  mould  over  the  weeds  with  her  hands. 

The  New  Zealanders  make  only  two  meals  in  a  day,  one  irr 
the  morning,  and  another  at  sunset;  but  their  voracity,  when 
they  do  eat,  is  often  very  great.  In  consequ<Mice  of  this  habit 
of  consuming  an  extraordinary  quantity  of  (ixnl,  a  New  Zea- 
lander,  with  all  his  jiowers  of  endurance  in  other  respects,  suf- 
fers dreadfully  when  he  has  not  his  usual  means  of  satisfying 
his  hunger.  One  of  the  strongest  prejudices  of  the  Nrw  Zea- 
landtT.s,  is  an  av<>rsion  to  be  where  any  article  of  fond  is  sus- 
pended over  their  heads  ;  and  on  this  account  they  never  per- 
mit any  thing  eatable  to  be  brought  within  their  huts,  but  take 
all  their  meals  out  of  doors,  in  an  open  space  adjoining  to  the 
house,  which  has  been  called  by  some  writers  the  kitchen,  it 
being  there  that  the  meal  is  cftoked  as  well  as  eaten.  Crozet 
says,  that  every  one  of  these  kitchens  has  in  it  a  cooking  hole, 
dug  in  the  ground,  of  about  two  feet  in  diameter,  and  between 
one  and  two  deep.  Even  when  the  natives  are  confined  to 
their  beds  by  sickness,  and  it  may  be,  at  the  point  of  death, 


H-5 


•  Thr  frrn  rootn  arc  first  rnaslcil,  nnd  nftrrwnrdH  hnns^  Iniil  upon  a  stone. 
are  beat  wiih  a  piece  of  wood,  until  they  heeoint'  Boft  like  dough.  VVhoii  cola 
a^ain,  however,  it  becomes  hard,  and  snaps  like  hard  gingerbread. 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  443 

CANNIBALISM. 

they  must  receive  whatever  food  they  take  in  this  outer  room, 
which,  however,  is  sometimes  provided  with  a  shed,  supported 
upon  posts,  although  in  no  case  does  it  appear  to  be  enclosed 
by  walls.  It  is  here,  accordingly,  that  those  who  are  in  so 
weak  a  state  from  illness,  as  not  to  be  able  to  bear  removal 
from  one  place  to  another,  usually  have  their  couches  spread ; 
as,  were  they  to  choose  to  recline  inside  the  house,  it  would  be 
necessary  to  leave  them  to  die  of  want. 

The  charge  of  cannibalism  has  been  alleged  against  the 
New  Zealanders,  and  though  by  some  it  has  been  denied,  it  is 
now  certain  that  the  charge  is  true.  Captain  Cook  was  the 
first  who  observed  the  fact.  Having  one  day  gone  ashore  here, 
accompanied  by  Mr.  Banks,  Dr.  Solander,  Tupia,  and  other 
persons  belonging  to  the  ship,  they  found  a  family  of  the  natives 
employed  in  dressing  some  provision.  The  body  of  a  dog,  says, 
Cook,  was  at  this  time  buried  in  their  oven,  and  many  provi- 
sion baskets  stood  near  it.  Having  cast  our  eyes  carelessly 
into  one  of  these,  as  we  passed  it,  we  saw  two  bones  pretty 
cleanly  picked,  which  did  not  seem  to  be  the  bones  of  a  dog, 
and  which,  upon  nearer  examination,  we  discovered  to  be 
those  of  a  human  body.  At  this  sight  we  were  struck  with  hor- 
ror, though  it  was  only  a  confirmation  of  what  we  had  heard 
many  times  since  we  arrived  upon  this  coast.  As  we  could 
have  no  doubt  but  the  bones  were  human,  neither  could  we 
have  any  doubt  that  the  flesh,  which  covered  them  had  been 
eaten.  They  were  found  in  a  provision  basket;  the  flesh  that 
remained  appeared  manifestly  to  have  been  dressed  by  fire, 
and  in  the  gristles  at  the  end,  were  the  marks  of  the  teeth 
which  had  gnawed  them.  To  put  an  end,  however,  to  conjec- 
ture founded  upon  circumstances  and  appearances,  we  directed 
Tupia  to  ask  what  bones  they  were  ;  and  the  Indians,  without 
the  least  hesitation,  answered,  the  bones  of  a  man.  They  were 
then  asked,  what  was  become  of  the  flesh,  and  they  replied 
that  they  had  eaten  it ;  but,  said  Tvipia,  why  did  you  not  eat 
the  body  of  the  woman,  which  we  saw  floating  upon  the  water? 
The  woman,  said  they,  died  of  disease ;  besides,  she  was  our 
relation,  and  we  eat  only  the  bodies  of  our  enemies,  who  are 
killed  in  battle.  Upon  inquiry  who  the  man  was,  whose  bones 
we  had  found,  they  told  us  that,  about  five  days  before,  a  boat 
belonging  to  their  enemies  came  into  the  bay,  with  many  per- 
sons on  board,  and  that  this  man  was  one  of  seven  persons 
whom  they  had  killed. 

Capt.  Cruise  bears  similar  testimony  to  the  cannibalism  of  the 
New  Zealanders.  His  voyage  was  made  as  late  asthe  year 
1820.  The  New  Zealanders,  he  says,  never  denied  cannibaUsm 
to  be  one  of  their  customs ;  but  on  the  contraiy,  often  express- 
ed their  predilection  for  human  flesh.  He  states  also,  in  another 
place,  that  while  the  Dromedary  lay  in  the  Bay  of  Islands,  two 
slaves  were  killed  by  one  of  the  neighboring  chiefs  for  some 
alleged  crimea(|nd  that  one  of  them,  after  having  lain  a  day 


444  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

NEW  ZEALAND. 

buried,  was  taken  up  and  devoured.  Some  of  the  officers  hap- 
pening to  pass  through  the  village,  while  the  natives  were  enga- 
ged at  this  feast,  observed  them  to  tlirow  their  mats  over  some 
object  around  which  they  were  sitting,  when  they  saw  the  stran- 
gers approach.  Although  the  gentlemen  walked  on  without 
appearing  to  notice  what  tliey  had  seen,  a  common  sailor  who 
afterwards  came  up,  was  not  only  an  eye-witness  of  their  eating 
the  body,  but  was  invited  to  partake  of  the  repast.  Mr.  Mars- 
den,  in  like  manner,  assures  us.  in  the  journal  of  his  Hrst  visit 
to  the  country,  that  the  natives  did  not  appear  to  have  any  idea 
that  cannibalism  was  an  unnatural  crime ;  and  when  lie  ex- 
pressed to  them  his  abhorrence  of  the  practice,  they  merely 
remarked  that  it  had  always  been  the  custom  with  them  to  eat 
their  enemies.  To  the  same  effect  is  the  testimony  of  John 
Rutherfijrd,  an  Englishnnui,  wlio  after  ten  years  detention 
among  the  inhabitants  of  New  Zealand,  returned  to  England 
in  the  early  part  of  1828.  In  the  course  of  his  journey  into  the 
interior,  he  was  taken  to  the  house  of  a  chief  whose  name  was 
Aimy.  Here,  he  observes,  a  pig  was  killed,  from  which  we 
supped  ;  and,  afterwards  seating  ourselves  around  the  fire,  we 
amused  ourselves  by  listening  to  several  of  the  women  singing. 
In  the  mean  time,  a  slave  Ln'rl  was  killed,  and  put  into  a  hole  in 
the  earth  to  roast,  in  order  to  furnish  the  feast  the  following  day, 
in  honor  of  the  chiePs  return  home.  We  slept  that  night  in  the 
chief's  house  ;  but  the  next  morning  a  number  of  the  natives 
were  set  to  work  to  build  us  one  for  ourselves,  of  the  same 
form  with  that  in  which  the  chief  lived,  and  nearly  the  same 
size.  In  the  course  of  this  day,  many  other  chiefs  arrived  at 
the  village,  accompanied  by  their  families  and  slaves,  to  wel- 
come Aimy  home,  which  they  did  in  their  usual  manner.  Some 
of  them  brought  with  them  a  quantity  of  watermelons,  which 
they  gave  to  me  and  my  comrade.  At  last  they  all  seated 
themselves  U[)on  the  ground  to  have  their  feast; — several  large 
pigs,  together  with  some  scores  of  baskets  of  potatoes,  tava, 
and  watermelons,  having  first  been  i)rought  forward  by 
Aimy's  people.  The  |)igs,  after  being  drowned  in  the  river 
and  dressed,  had  been  ,  laid  to  roast  beside  the  jiotatoes. 
When  these  were  eaten,  the  fire  that  had  been  made  the  night 
before  was  opened  ann  the  body  of  the  slave  girl  was  taken 
out  of  it,  which  they  next  proceeded  to  feast  upon  in  the 
eagerest  manner.  We  were  not  asked  to  partake  of  it,  for 
Aimy  knew  that  we  had  refused  to  eat  human  flesh  before. 
After  the  feast  was  over,  the  fragments  were  collected,  and 
carried  home  by  the  slaves  of  the  (liff"erent  chiefs,  according 
to  the  custom,  which  is  always  observed  on  such  occasiona 
in  New  Zealand. 

TT^c  habitations,  or  rather  the  hutK  of  the  common  people, 
are  described  as  very  wretclied,  and  little  better  than  sheds. 
But  Mr.  Nicholas  mentions,  that  those  which  he  saw  in  the 
northern  part  of  the  country  had  uniformly  well  cultivated  lit- 


(jrotip  nJWcic  Zealandeis.  P.  I  \*- 


A'ctc  Z'u/'in  I  ll:tl. 


r.  ui, 


Tattooing  Instruments  in  New  Zealand.         P.  445 


Musicians  of  New  Zealand.         P.  454. 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  445 

TATTOOING. 

tie  gardens  attached  to  them,  which  are  stocked  with  turnips, 
and  sweet  and  common  potatoes.  Crozet  tells  us,  that  the 
only  articles  of  furniture  the  French  ever  found  in  these  huts, 
were  fishing-hooks,  nets,  and  lines,  calabashes  containing 
water,  a  few  tools  made  of  stone,  and  several  cloaks  and  other 
garments  suspended  from  the  walls.  Amongst  the  tools,  one 
resembling  our  adze  is  in  the  most  common  use,  and  it  is  re- 
markable that  the  handles  of  these  implements  are  often  com- 
posed of  human  bones.  In  the  museum  of  the  Church  Mis- 
sionary Society  in  England,  there  are  adzes,  the  handle  of 
one  of  which  is  formed  of  the  bone  of  a  human  arm,  and 
another  of  that  of  the  leg.  The  bread  pounder,  formed  of  a 
large  fish-bone,  is  also  in  general  use:  in  the  plates  to  Cook's 
Voyage,  is  also  given  a  i^epresentation  of  a  carving  knife 
or  saw. 

The  common  people  generally  sleep  in  the  open  air,  in  a  sit- 
ting posture,  and  covered  by  their  upper  mats,  all  but  the 
head ;  which  has  been  described  as  giving  them  the  appear- 
ance of  so  many  hay  cocks,  or  bee  hives. 

The  house  of  the  chief  is  generally  the  largest  in  the  village ; 
but  every  village  has,  in  addition  to  the  dwelling-houses  of 
which  it  consists,  a  public  storehouse,  or  repository  of  the 
common  stock  of  sweet  potatoes,  which  is  still  a  larger  struc- 
ture than  the  habitation  of  the  chief  One  which  Captain 
Cruise  describes,  was  erected  upon  several  posts  driven  in  the 
ground,  which  were  floored  over  with  deals  at  the  height  of 
about  four  feet,  as  a  foundation.  Both  the  sides  and  the  roof 
were  compactly  formed  of  stakes  intertwisted  with  grass  ;  and 
a  shding  doorway  scarcely  large  enough  to  admit  a  man, 
formed  the  entrance.  The  roof  projected  over  this,  and  was 
ornamented  with  pieces  of  plank  painted  red,  and  having  a 
variety  of  grotesque  figures  carved  on  them.  The  whole 
building  was  about  twenty  feet  long,  eight  feet  wide,  and  five 
feet  high.  The  residences  of  the  chiefs  are  built  upon  the 
ground,  and  have  generally  the  floor,  and  a  small  place  in 
front,  neatly  paved  ;  but  they  are  so  low,  that  a  man  can  stand 
upright  in  very  few  of  tliem.  The  huts,  as  well  as  the  store- 
houses, are  adorned  with  carving  over  the  door.  Rutherford 
says,  each  of  them  have  an  image  stuck  upon  the  ridge-pole 
to  intimate  that  no  slave  may  enter  the  house  during  the  ab- 
.  sence  of  the  owner,  the  punishment  for  violating  :heir  regula- 
tion being  instant  death. 

The  custom  of  marking  the  skin  called  tattooing^  exists  in 
New  Zealand,  and  is  there  a  more  sanguinary  and  distiessing 
operation  than  in  any  other  of  Ihe  islands  of  the  Scuta  Sea, 
Rutherford,  upon  whom  the  operation  was  performed,  w.'ule  a 
captive  in  New  Zealand,  thus  describes  the  operation.  "  The 
whole  of  the  natives  having  seated  themselves  on  the  groand 
in  a  ring,  v/e  were  brought  into  the  middle,  and  being  strip  po^d 
of  our  clothes,  and  laid  on  our  backs,  we  were  each  v  f  us  held 
■33 


446  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

NEW  ZEALAND. 

down  by  five  or  six  men,  while  two  others  commenced  the 
operation  of  tattooing  us.  Having  taken  a  piece  of  charcoal, 
and  rubbed  it  upon  a  stone  with  a  little  water  until  they  had 
produced  a  thickish  liquid,  they  then  dipped  into  it  an  instru- 
ment made  of  bone,  having  a  sharp  edge  like  a  chisel,  and 
shaped  in  the  fashion  of  a  garden  lioe,  and  immediately  ap- 
plied to  the  skin,  striking  it  Twice  or  thrice  with  a  small  ])iece 
of  wood.  This  made  it  cut  into  the  Hesh  as  a  knife  would 
have  done,  and  caused  a  good  deal  of  blood  to  flow,  which 
they  fcejrt  wiping  off  with  the  side  of  the  hand  to  see  if  the  im- 
pression was  sufficiently  clear.  When  it  was  not,  they  ap- 
plied the  bone  the  second  time  to  the  same  place.  They  em- 
ployed, however,  various  instrunients  in  the  course  of  the 
operation:  one  which  they  sometimes  used  being  made  of  a 
shark's  tooth,  and  anotiier  having  teeth  like  a  saw.  They  had 
them  also  of  different  sizes,  to  suit  the  different  parts  of  the 
work.  While  1  was  undergoing  this  o))eration,  although  the 
pain  was  most  acute,  I  never  even  moved  or  uttered  a  sound ; 
but  ray  comrades  moaned  dreadfully.  Although  the  opera- 
tors were  very  quick  and  dexterous,  I  was  four  hours  under 
their  hands ;  and  during  the  operation  Aimy's  eldest  daugh- 
ter several  times  wiped  the  blood  from  my  face  with  some 
dressed  flax.  After  it  was  over,  she  led  me  to  the  river, 
that  I  might  wash  mysi'lf,  (for  it  had  made  me  completely 
blind.)  and  then  conducted  me  to  a  great  fire.  They  now  re- 
turned us  all  our  clothes,  with  the  exception  of  our  shirts, 
which  the  women  kept  for  themselves,  wearing  them,  as  we 
observed,  with  the  fronts  behind.  We  were  now  not  only  tat- 
tooed, but  wliat  they  called  tahooni,  the  meaning  of  which  i.<?, 
made  sacred,  (>r  forbidden  to  touch  any  provisions  of  any  kind 
with  our  hands.  This  state  of  things  lasted  for  three  days, 
during  which  tune  we  were  fed  by  the  daughters  of  the  chiefs, 
with  the  same  victuals,  and  out  of  the  same  luisket,  as  the 
chiefs  themselves,  and  the  persons  who  had  tattooed  us.  In 
three  daj's,  the  swelling  which  had  been  jtroduced  by  the  oper- 
ation had  greatly  .suijsidiHl,  and  I  began  to  recover  my  sight ; 
but  it  was  six  weeks  belbn-  !  was  co'npletely  well.  I  had  no 
medical  as'-istance  of  any  kind  during  my  illness  ;  but  Aimy's 
two  daughters  were  very  attentive  to  me,  and  would  frecpiently 
sit  beside  me,  and  talk  to  me  in  llifir  language,  of  which  as 
yet,  however,  I  did  not  understand  much." 

kutherford  states  tht't  in  the  part  of  the  country  where  he 
was,  the  men  were  commonly  tattooed  on  their  face,  hips,  and 
body,  and  some  as  low  as  the  heel.  None  w('re'allowcd  to  be 
tattooed  on  the  foiehead,  chin,  and  upjier  li|i,  except  the  ver}' 
greatest  among  the  chiefs.  The  j)riests  have  only  a  small 
square  patch  of  tattooing  over  the  right  eye.  Their  stains,  al- 
though their  brilliancy  may  jierhaps  decay  with  tinie,  being  thus 
fixed  in  tlie  llesh,  are  of  course  nidelible  just  as  much  as  the 
marks  of  a  similar  nature  which  sailors  frequently  nuiUe  on  thejv 
arms  and  breasts  by  introducing  gunpowder  under  the  skin. 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  447 


RELIGION. 


The  New  Zealanders,  like  many  other  savages,  are  also  in 
the  habit  of  anointing  themselves  with  a  mixture  of  grease 
and  red  ochre.  This'sort  of  rouge  is  very  much  used  by  the 
women,  and  " being  generall)^,"  says  Cook,  "fresh  and  rich 
upon  their  cheeks  and  foreheads,  was  easily  transferred  to  the 
noses  of  those  who  thought  fit  to  salute  them  ;  and  that  they 
were  not  wholly  averse  to  such  familiarity,  the  noses  of  sev- 
eral of  our  people  strongly  testified."  The  faces  of  men,  he 
adds,  were  not  so  generally  painted;  yet  we  saw  one,  whose 
whole  body,  and  even  his  garments,  were  rubbed  over  with 
dry  ochre,  of  which  he  kept  a  piece  constantly  in  his  hand,  and 
was  every  minute  renewing  the  decoration  in  one  part  or 
another,  where  he  supposed  it  was  become  deficient 

The  New  Zealanders  have  no  morais  or  temples  among 
them,  yet  they  are  not  without  some  notions  of  religion  ;  and 
in  many  particulars  they  are  remarkably  superstitious.  For 
instance,  they  think  that  if  they  were  to  allow  a  fire  to  be 
lighted  under  a  shed,  where  there  are  no  provisions,  their  god 
w'ould  kill  them.  They  have  many  superstitions,  also,  with  . 
regard  to  cutting  their  hair.  Cook,  in  the  account  of  his 
third  voyage,  speaks  of  a  young  man  he  had  taken  on 
board  the  ship,  and  who,  haviogone  day  performed  this  cere- 
mony, could  not  be  prevailed  upon  to  eat  a  morsel  till  night, 
insisting  that  the  "  Atua  would  most  certainly  kill  him,  if  he 
did."  Cook  adds  that  the  hair  thus  cut  is  collected,  and  fre- 
quently tied  to  the  branches  of  the  trees  near  the  villages.  Ac- 
cording to  one  of  the  missionaries,  it  is  sometimes  buried  in  a 
secret  place. 

Mr.  Marsden,  on  asking  a  New  Zealander  what  he  con- 
ceived Atua  to  be,  was  answered,  "an  immortal  shadow." 
Although  possessed  of  the  attributes  of  immortality,  omni- 
presence, invisibility,  and  supreme  power,  he  is  universally 
believed  to  be  in  disposition  merely  a  vindictive  demon.  When 
one  of  the  missionaries  had  one  day  been  telling  a  number  of 
tliem  of  the  'infinite  goodness  of  God,  they  asked  him  if  he 
was  not  joking  with  them.  They  beheve,  that  whenever  any 
person  is  sick,  his  ihness  is  occasioned  by  the  Atua,  in  the 
shape  of  a  lizard,  preying  upon  his  entrails  ;  and,  according- 
ly, in  such  cases,  they  often  address  the  most  horrid  impreca- 
tions and  curses  to  the  invisible  cannibal,  in  the  hope  of  there- 
by frightening  him  away.  They  imagine  that  at  other  times 
he  amuses  hniiself  in  entangling  their  nets,  and  oversetting 
tlieir  canoes. 

The  white  man's  God  they  believe  to  be  altogether  a  differ- 
ent being  from  their  own  Atua.  Mr.  Marsden,  in  one  of  his 
letters,  relates  a  conversation  he  had  upon  this  subject  with 
some  Qf  the  chief's  sons,  who  resided  with  him  in  New  South 
Wales.  When  he  told  them  that  there  was  but  one  God,  and 
that  our  God  was  also  theirs,  they  asked  him  if  our  God  had 
given  them  any  sweet  potatoes  ;  and  could  with  difficulty  be 


148  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

NEW  ZCALAND. 

made  to  see  how  one  God  should  p'lve  these  to  the  New  Zea- 
lander,  and  not  equally  to  the  white  man  ;  or,  on  the  other 
hand,  how  ho  should  have  acted  so  i)aitially  as  to  fjive  to  the 
white  man  only,  sucli  imssessions  as  cattle,  sheep,  and  horses, 
which  the  New  Zealander  as  mucli  required.  The  artfument, 
however,  upon  which  they  seem  most  to  liave  rested,  was — 
"Bui  we  are  of  a  different  color  from  you  ;  and  if  cme  God 
made  us  both,  he  would  not  have  committed  such  a  mistake, 
as  to  make  use  of  different  colors."  Even  one  of  the  chiefs, 
vho  had  been  a  ^reat  deal  with  Mr.  Marsden,  and  was  dispo- 
sed to  acknowledge  tlie  absurdity  both  of  tlie  taboo,  and  of 
many  of  his  other  native  sui)erstitions,  could  not  be  Ijroujiht  to 
admit  that  the  same  God  who  made  the  white  man  had  also 
made  the  New  Zealanders. 

Besides  the  Atua,  or  chief  o'od,  the  New  Zealanders  have 
niunerous  other  subordinate  divinities,  to  whom  thoy  are  iri 
tlie  habit  of  jiraying,  in  all  their  emerj^encies.  They  daily 
adore  the  sun,  moon,  and  stars.  When  addressing  the  moon, 
they  employ,  Mr.  Savasfe  tells  us,  a  mournful  song,  and  seem 
as  full  of  ap|)rt'!iension  as  of  devotion :  whereas,  when  inly- 
ing their  adoration  to  the  rising  sun,  the  arms  are  spread, 
and  the  head  bowed,  with  the  appearance  of  much  joy  in 
their  countenances,  accompaniecl  with  a  degree  of  elegant 
and  reverential  solemnity,  and  the  song  used  upon  the  occa- 
sion is  cheerful. 

The  priests,  or  Tohungas,  as  they  are  called,  aiv  persons  of 
great  imjiortance  and  autlnirity  in  New  Zealand,  being  es- 
teemed almost  tlie  keepers  and  rulers  of  tlu'  gods  themselves. 
]\LTny  of  the  gr(\atest  of  the  chiefs  are  also  jiriests.     It  is  the 

f)riest  who  attends  at  the  bedside  of  the  dying  chief,  and  regu- 
ates  every  part  of  the  trealmmt  of  the  patient,  ^\■he^  the 
body  of  a  chi<'f  who  has  l)een  killeil  in  battle,  is  to  be  eaten, 
it  is  the  priest  who  fust  gives  tlie  command  for  its  being  roast- 
ed. The  fust  moutiifuis  of  the  lle.>-li.  also,  being  regarded  as 
the  dues  of  the  god.s,  are  always  eaten  by  the  j^riest,  whose 
aid  is  invok<'d  to  obtain  relief  from  heavm. 

The  New  Zealandi-i  s  also  consider  all  their  jiriests  as  a  spe- 
cies of  sorcerers,  and  believe  that  they  have  the  power  to  take 
tlie  lives  of  whomsoever  they  choose,  by  incantation.  The 
mo.st  notfMl  priest  of  New  Zealand  some  f<'W  years  .since,  was 
Tamatdieu.i,  who  was  i)elieved  to  have  alisolute  command  over 
the  wiudfi  and  waves.  He  often  acted  as  a  piUit,  as  well  as  a 
priest,  and  on  ime  occasion  he  accompanied  Mr.  Marsden  in  a 
canoe  to  examine  the  rtitrance  of  a  river.  It  was  blowing  quite 
fresh  at  the  time,  but  Tamanhena  assured  him  that  he  would 
Boon  make  both  the  winds  and  waves  fall.  For  this  purjiose, 
he  began  to  speak  in  an  angry  and  commanding  tone  to  the 
gods,  the  winds,  and  the  waves,  but  like  Baal  of  old,  they  heed- 
ed not  the  voice  of  the  vociftTatiiit.'  priest.  Captain  Cruise, 
during  his  visit  to  New  Zealand,  himself  saw  Tamanhena,  anu 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  449 

FISH. 

has  given  us  some  particulars  of  his  conduct,  which  detract  in 
no  small  degree  from  his  character  for  sanctity.  He  had  act- 
ed as  a  pilot  of  the  ship.  During  his  stay  on  board,  says  Capt. 
Cruise,  he  was  by  far  the  wildest  of  his  companions;  and  un- 
fortunately, on  the  morning  fixed  for  his  departure,  a  soldier 
having  missed  his  jacket,  there  was  so  great  a  suspicion  of 
the  pilot's  honesty,  that  the  sentinel  at  the  gangway  took  the 
liberty  of  lifting  up  his  mat,  as  he  prepared  to  go  down  the 
side,  and  discovered  the  stolen  property  under  it.  The  jacket 
was  of  course  taken  from  him,  and  the  only  excuse  he  had  to 
offer  for  his  misconduct  was,  that  he  had  lost  a  shirt  that  had 
been  given  to  him,  and  that  he  considered  himself  authorized 
to  get  remuneration  in  any  way  he  could ;  he  was  dismissed 
without  those  presents,  which  were  given  to  the  others.  We 
were  glad  to  see  that  his  countrymen  seemed  to  notice  his  con- 
duct in  the  strongest  terms  of  disapprobation  ;  and  the  next 
day  when  they  were  about  to  leave  us,  they  seemed  so  deter- 
mined to  put  him  to  death,  that  they  were  requested  not  to  do 
so,  but  to  consider  his  having  lost  his  presents,  and  his  being 
forbidden  ever  to  come  near  the  ship,  a  sufficient  punishment 
for  his  offence. 

It  is  very  remarkable,  that  whenever  a  child  is  born  in  New 
Zealand,  it  is  the  invariable  practice  to  take  it  to  the  tohunga, 
or  priest,  who  sprinkles  it  on  the  face  with  water,  from  a  leaf, 
which  he  Iiolds  in  his  hand.  It  is  believed  that  the  neglect  of 
this  ceremony  would  be  attended  with  the  most  baneful  conse- 
quences to  the  child. 

One  of  the  chief  sources  of  natural  wealth,  which  New  Zea- 
land possesses,  consists  in  the  abundance  and  variety  of  the 
fish  which  frequent  its  coasts.  Wherever  he  went,  in  his  dif- 
ferent visits  to  the  two  islands,  Captain  Cook  was  amply  sup- 
plied with  this  description  of  food,  of  which  he  says,  that  six 
or  eight  men,  with  hooks  and  lines,  would  in  some  places  catch 
daily  enough  to  serve  the  whole  ship's  company.  Among  the 
different  species  which  are  described  as  being  found,  we  may 
mention  mackerel,  lobsters,  crayfish,  a  sort  called  by  the  sail- 
ors colefish,  which  Cook  says  was  both  larger  and  fairer  than 
any  he  had  seen  before,  and  was,  in  the  opinion  of  most  on 
board,  the  highest  luxury  the  sea  aflTorded  them ;  the  herring, 
the  flounder,  and  a  fish  resembling  the  salmon.  To  these  may 
be  added,  besides  many  other  species  of  shell-fish,  muscles, 
cockles,  and  oysters.  The  seas  in  the  neighborhood  of  New 
Zealand,  also,  we  ought  not  to  forget  to  add,  are  much  fre- 
quented by  whales,  which,  besides  the  value  of  their  blubber, 
are  greatly  prized  by  the  natives  for  the  sake  of  their  flesh, 
which  they  consider  a  first-rate  delicacy.  The  New  Zealand- 
ers  are  extremely  expert  in  fishing.  They  are  also  admirable 
divers,  and  Rutherford  states  that  they  will  bring  up  live  fish 
from  the  deepest  waters,  with  the  greatest  certainty.  The 
38* 


4dO  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

NEW  ZEALAND. 

hooks,  and  other  implements  for  lisliing,  wliicli  tliey  make  of 
bone,  are  of  various  forms. 

Rntherford,  whom  ve  have  had  frpquent  occasion  to  quote, 
gives  the  followiiif;  account  of  the  sickncsa,  death,  and  funeral 
oi.s-eyft(>6' of  the  mother  of  Aimy,  the  chief  wiio.se  two  <Iausrli- 
ters  he  afterwards  married.  "Aimyand  his  family  liavhis; 
gone  to  a  feast  at  an<>th(M'  villaire,  a  few  milys  liisfarit  fioiri 
ours,  my  comrade  and  iiiy.self  wert*  left  at  home,  with  nobody 
but  a  few  slaves,  and  the  chief's  mother,  an  old  woman,  who 
was  sick,  an<l  attendcnl  !)y  a  physician.  A  physician  in  this 
country  remains  with  his  patienis  constantly,  both  day  and 
ni<^ht,  never  leavinii  them  till  they  recover  or  die,  in  which  lat- 
ter case,  he  is  brought  be(<)re  a  court  of  inquiry,  com|)osed  of 
all  the  chiefs  for  many  miles  round.  Duriim  the  absence  of 
the  family  at  tlH-  feast,  my  comrade  chanced  to  ItMid  his  knife 
to  a  slave,  for  him  to  cut  some  iiisties  with,  in  order  to  repair 
a  house;  and  when  this  was  done  he  received  it  back  a^ain. 
Soon  after,  he  and  I  killed  a  pig,  fi-oin  which  we  cut  a  portion 
into  small  pieces,  and  put  them  into  our  iron  pot,  alonp;  with 
.some  potator-s,  which  we  hari  also  peeled  with  our  knives. 
When  the  potatoes  were  cooked,  the  old  woman  who  was  sick 
desired  us  to  give  her  some,  which  we  did  in  the  presence  of 
tiie  doctor,  ami  she  ate  them.  Next  morning  she  died,  when 
the  chief  and  the  rest  of  his  family  immediately  returned  home. 
The  corpse  was  lirst  removed  to  an  unoccupied  piece  of 
giftund  in  the  centre  of  the  village,  and  there  placed  with  a 
mat  under  it,  in  a  sitting  positif)n  a;.^ainst  a  post,  being  covered 
with  another  mat  up  to  the  chin.  The  h«^ad  and  face  were 
anointed  wiih  sliark  oil,  and  a  piece  of  ^rvvn  liax  was  also 
tied  round  the  head,  in  which  were  stuck  several  white  fea- 
tJiers — the  sort  of  feathers  which  are  here  preferred  to  any 
other.  They  then  constructed,  around  the  corpse,  an  enclo- 
sure of  twigs,  something  like  a  bird's  cage,  for  tin-  purpose  (<' 
keeping  the  dogs,  pigs,  and  children  from  it;  and  these  opera- 
tions being  over,  muskets  continued  to  be  occasionally  Hred 
during  the  rem.nnder  of  the  day.  to  the  memory  of  the  old  wo- 
man. Meanwliile,  the  chiefs  and  their  families,  from  niiles 
round,  were  making  their  ajipear.ince  in  our  village,  bringing 
with  them  their  slaves,  loaded  with  provisions.  On  the  third 
day  after  the  d<\ith,  they  all,  to  the  nmnl)er  of  .sonu'  lumdred.s, 
knelt  down  around  the  cf)rpse,  and  having  thrown  olf  their 
mats,  proceeded  to  cr)'  and  cut  themselv(\s  in  the  same  n)an- 
Der  as  we  had  seen  done  on  occasion  of  the  different  chiefs 
of  the  villa(r<"s  through  which  we  passed  being  welcomed 
home.  Afler  some  time  spent  in  this  ceremony,  they  all  sat 
down  together  to  a  great  feast,  made  of  their  own  provision, 
which  they  had  brought  with  them.  The  f  illowing  morning, 
the  njen  alone  formed  a  circle  round  the  dead  body,  armed 
with  spears,  muskets,  tomahawks,  and  merys;  and  the  doc- 
tor appeared,  walking  backwards  and  forwards  in  the  ring. 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  451 

FDNERAL  RITES. 

By  this  time,  my  companion  and  I  had  learned  a  good  deal 
of  their  language;  and  as  we  stood  listening  to  what  was  said, 
we  heard  the  doctor  relate  the  particulars  of  the  old  woman's 
illness  and  death  :  after  which,  the  chiefs  began  to  inquire  very 
closely  into  what  she  had  eaten  for  the  three  days  before  she 
expired.     At  last,  the  doctor  having  retired  from  the  ring,  an 
old  chief  stepped  forward,  with  three  or  four  white  feathers 
stuck  in  his  hair;  and,  having  walked  several  times  up  and 
down  in  the  ring,  addressed  the  meeting,  and  said  that,  in  his 
opinion,  the  old  woman's  death  had  been  occasioned  by  her 
having  eaten  potatoes  that  had  been  peeled  with  a  white  man's 
knife  after  it  had  been  used  for  cutting  rushes  to  repair  a 
house ;  on  which  account,   he  thought  that  the  white  man  to 
whom  the  knife  belonged  should  be  killed,  which  would  be  a 
great  honor  conferred  upon  the  memory  of  the  dead  woman. 
To  this  proposal  many  of  the  other  chiefs  expressed  their  as- 
sent, and  it  seemed  about  to  be  adopted  by  the  court.     Mean- 
while, my  companion  stood  trembling,  and  unable  to  speak, 
from  fear.     1  then  went  forward  myself  into  the  ring,  and  told 
them,  that  if  the  white  man  had  done  wrong  in  lending  his 
knife  to  the  slave,  he  had  done  so  ignorantly,  from  not  know- 
ing the  custom  of  the  country.    I  ventured  at  the  same  time  to 
address  myself  to  Aim}',  beseeching  him  to  spare  my  ship- 
mate's life  ;  but  he  continued  to  keep  iiis  seat  on  the  ground, 
mourning  the  loss  of  his  mother,  without  answering  me,  or 
seeming  to  take  any  notice  of  v>'hat  I  said;  and  while  I  was 
yet  speaking  to  him,  the  chief  with  the  white  feathers  went 
and  struck  my  comrade  on  the  head  with  a  mery,  and  killed 
him.   Aimy,  however,  would  not  allow  hirn  to  be  eaten,  though 
for  what  reason  I  could  never  learn.     The  slaves,  therefore, 
having  dug  a  grave  for  him,  he  v,as  interred  after  my  direc- 
tions.    As  for  the  corpse  of  the  old  woman,  it  was  now  wrap- 
ped up  in  several  mats,  and  carried  away  by  Aimy  and  the 
doctor,  no  person  being  allowed  to  follow  them.     I  learned, 
however,  that  they  took  her  into  a  neighboring  wood,  and  there 
buried  her.     After  this  the  strangers  all  left  our  village,  and 
returned  to  their  respective  homes.     In  about  three  months, 
the  body  of  the  woman  was  again  taken  up,  and  carried  to 
the  river-side,  where  the  bones  were  scraped  and  washed,  and 
then  enclosed  in  a  box,  which  had  been  prepared  for  that  pur- 
pose.    The  box  was  afterwards  fastened  on  the  top  of  a  post, 
in  the  place  where  the  body  first  lay  in  state;  and  a  space  of 
about  thirty  feet  in  circumference  being  railed  in  around  it, 
a  wooden  image  was  erected,  to  signify  that  the  ground  was 
tabooed,  or  sacred,  and  as  a  warning  that  no  one  should  en- 
ter the  enclosure.     This  is  the  regular  manner  of  interment  in 
New  Zealand  for  any  one  belonging  to  a  chief's  family.  When 
a  slave  dies,  a  hole  is  dug,  and  the  body  is  thrown  into  it  with- 
out any  ceremony;  nor  is  it  ever  disinterred  again,  or  any 
further  notice  taken  of  it.     They  never  eat  any  person  who 
dies  of  disease,  or  in  the  course  of  nature." 


452  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 


NEW  ZEALAND. 


Jiuthrrford  haa  p-iren  us  thn  foUmrin^  account  of  a  New  Zea- 
land battle.     Kaiiy  tlio  next  moniinir  the  enemy  ivtroated  to 
the  distance  of" about  two  miles  fVoin  the  river;  upon  observ- 
ing whicli,  our  jiarty  immediately  tiirew  oH"  their  mats,  and  got 
under  arms.     The  two  parties  iiad  altogether  about  two  thou- 
sand muskets  amons;  them,  chiefly  purchased  from  tiie  Eng- 
lish and  American  South  Sea  ships  whicli  touch  at  tlie  island. 
We  now  crossed  the  river;  and,  having  arrived  on  the  opposite 
side,  I  took  my  station  on  a  rising  ground,  about  a  quarter  of 
a  mile  distant  from  where  our  party  halted,  so  that  I  had  a 
full  view  of  the  eniz;agem«^nt.     I  was  not  myself  required  to 
light,  but  I  loaded  my  (loul)le-barrelled  gun.  and,  thus  armed, 
reniained  at  my  post,  my  wife  and  the  two  slave  girls  having 
seated  themselves  at  my  feet.     The  commander-in-chief  of 
each  party  now  stepped    forward  a  few  yards,   and,   jilacing 
himselfin'frontof  his  troops,  commenced  liie  war-song.  When 
thi.s  was  ended,  both  parties  danced  a  war-dance,   singing  at 
the  same  time  as  loud  as  they  could,  and  brandishing  their 
weapons  in  the  air.     Having  finished  their  dance,  each  party 
formed  into  a  lii  e  two  deep,  the  women  and  boys  stationing 
themselves  about  ten  yards  to  the  rear.    The  two  jiarties  then 
advanced  to  within  about  a  hundred  yards  of  each  other,  when 
they  fired  off  their  muskets.     Few  of  them  put  the  musket  to 
the  shoulder  wiiile  firing  it.  but  merely  hc^ld  it  at  the  charge. 
They  only  fired  once,  and  then  threw  their  muskels  behind 
them,  when  they  were  picked  up  by  the  women  and  boys,  drew 
their  merys  and  tomahawks  out  of  their  belts,  when,  the  war- 
sontr  being  screamed  by  the  whole  of  them  together,  in  a  man- 
ner most  dismal  to  l)e  heard,  the  two  parties  rushed  into  close 
combat.     They  now  took  hold  of  the  hair  of  (>ach  other's  heads 
with  their  left  hands,  nsing  the  right  to  cut  off  the  head.    Mean- 
time the  women  and  boys  followed  clo.se  behind  them,  uttering 
the  most  shocking  cries  I  ever  heard.     These  last  received 
the  heads  of  the  slain  fio-m  those  eniraged  in  the  battle,  as  soon 
as  they  were  cut  off.  afier  which  the  men  went  in  among  the 
enemy  for  the  dead  bodies;  but  many  of  them  received  bodies^ 
that  did  not  belong  to  the  heads  they  had  cut  oflT.    The  engage- 
ment had  not  lasted  many  minutes,  when  the  enemy  Ixgan  to 
retreat,  and  were  pjirsued  by  our  party  thrfuigh  tiie  woods. 
Sf.nie  of  them,  in  their  flight,  crossed  the  hill  on  which  I  .stood; 
and  one  threw  a  short,  jairged  spear  at  me.  as  he  passed,  which 
stuck   in   the  inside  of  my  left  thigh.     It  was  afterwards  cut 
out  by  two  women,  with  an  oyster-shell.     The  operation  left 
a  wound  as  large  as  a  common-sized  tea-cup;  and  after  it  had 
been  perforn)ed,  I  was  carried  across  the  river  on  a  woman's 
back,  to  my  hut,  where  mv  wife  ap|ilied  some  green  herbs  to 
the  wound,  which  immediately  stopped  the  bleeding,  and  also 
made  the  pain  much  less  severe. 

In  a  short  time,  our  party  retrirned  victorious,  bringing  along 
with  them  manv  prisoners.  Persons  taken  in  battle,  whether 
chiefs  or  not,  becom*-  slaves  to  those  w  ho  take  them.     One  of 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  453 


CANOES — WAR  INSTRUMENTS. 


our  chiefs  had  been  shot,  and  the  body  was  brought  back  and 
laid  upon  some  mats  before  the  luits.  Twenty  heads,  also 
were  placed  upon  long  spears,  which  were  stuck  up  around 
our  huts  ;  and  nearly  twice  as  many  bodies  were  put  to  the 
fires,  to  be  cooked  in  the  accustomed  way.  Our  party  con- 
tinued dancing  and  singing  all  night;  and  the  next  morning 
they  had  a  grand  feast  on  the  dead  bodies  and  fern  roots,  in 
honor  of  the  victory  they  had  gained.  The  name  of  the  chief, 
whose  body  lay  in  front  of  our  huts,  was  Ewanna.  His  body 
was  now  cut  into  several  pieces,  which  being  packed  into 
baskets,  covered  with  black  mats,  were  put  into  one  of  the  ca- 
noes, to  be  taken  along  with  us  down  the  river.'' 

The  canoes  of  the  New  Zcalanders,  according  to  Rutherford, 
are  made  of  the  largest  sized  pine  trees,  which  generally  run 
from  forty  to  fifty  feet  long,  and  are  hollowed  out,  and  length- 
ened about  eight  feet  at  each  end,  and  raised  about  two  feet 
on  each  side.  They  are  built  with  a  figure-head;  the  stern 
post  extending  about  ten  feet  above  the  stern  of  the  canoe^ 
which  is  handsomely  carved,  as  well  as  the  figure-head,  and 
the  whole  body  of  the  canoe.  The  sides  are  ornamented  with 
pearl  shell,  which  is  let  into  the  carved  work,  and  above  that 
is  a  row  of  feathers.  On  both  sides,  fore  and  aft,  thej^  have 
seats  in  the  inside,  so  that  two  men  can  sit  abreast.  They  pull 
about  fifty  paddles  on  each  side,  and  many  of  them  will  carry 
two  hundred  people.  When  paddlmg,  the  chief  stands  up  and 
cheers  them  with  a  song,  to  which  they  all  join  in  cliorus. 
These  canoes  roll  heavy,  and  go  at  the  rate  of  seven  knots  an 
hour.  Their  sails  are  made  of  straw  mats  in  the  shape  of  a 
lateen  sail.  They  cook  in  their  canoes,  but  always  go  on 
shore  to  eat.  They  are  frequently  known  to  go  three  or  four 
hundred  miles  along  the  coast. 

The  principal  native  ivar  instrument  of  the  New  Zealanders 
is  a  short  thick  club.  This  weapon  they  all  constantly  wear 
either  fastened  in  their  girdle,  or  held  in  the  right  hand,  and 
attached  by  a  string  to  the  wTist.  It  is  in  shape  somewhat  like 
a  battledoor,  varying  from  ten  to  eighteen  inches  in  length,  (in- 
cluding a  short  handle,)  and  generally  about  four  or  five  broad, 
thick  in  the  middle,  but  worked  down  to  a  very  sharp  edge  on 
both  sides.  It  is  most  commonly  formed  of  a  species  of  green 
talc,  which  appears  to  be  found  only  in  the  southern  Island, 
and  with  regard  to  which  the  New  Zealanders  have  many  su- 
perstitious notions.  Some  of  them  are  made  of  a  dark  colored 
stone,  susceptible  of  a  high  polish  ;  some  of  whalebone  ;  and 
Mr.  Nicholas  mentions  one,  which  he  saw  of  iron,  and  also 
highly  polished.  It  had  been  fabricated  by  the  chief  himself, 
with  tools  of  the  most  imperfect  description;  and  yet  was, 
in  Mr.  Nicholas'  opinion,  as  well  finished  a  piece  of  work- 
manship as  could  have  been  produced  by  any  of  our  best 
mechanics.     This  instrument  is  employed  in  close  combat, 


454  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

NEW  ZEALAND. 

the  head  being  generally  the  part  aimed  at;  and  one  well 
directed  blow  is  quite  enough  to  split  the  liardest  skull.  The 
name  usually  given  to  it  in  the  earlier  accounts  of  New 
Zealand,  is  jxilorpatoo.  Mr.  Anderson,  in  his  general  re- 
marks on  the  people  of  Queen  Charlotte's  Sound,  says  it  is 
also  called  emeeta.  But  its  correct  and  distinctive  name 
seems  to  be  that  by  which  Rutherford  always  designates  it, 
the  mery,  or  mairy. 

Their  only  missile  weapons  (except  stones,  which  they 
merely  throw  from  the  hand)  are  short  spears,  made  of  hard 
wood,  or  whalebone,  and  pointed  at  one  extremity.  These 
the}'  are  very  dexterous  in  using,  both  in  darting  at  a  mark, 
and  in  receiving  or  turning  aside  with  the  lilades  of  tlieir 
battleaxes,  whicii  are  the  only  shields  they  use,  except  the 
folds  of  their  thick  and  flowing  mats,  which  they  raise  on  the 
left  arm,  and  which  are  tough  enough  to  impede  the  passage 
of  a  spear.  They  have  other  si)ears,  however,  varying 
from  thirteen  or  fourteen  to  thirty  feet  in  length,  which  they 
use  as  lances  or  bayonets.  These,  or  rather  the  shorter 
sort,  are  also  sometimes  called  by  English  writers  patoos, 
or  i)atoo-patoos.  Lastly,  tluy  often  carry  an  instrum(>nt 
somewhat  like  a  sergeant's  halberd,  curiously  carved,  and 
adorned  with  bunches  of  parrot's  feathers  tied  round  the 
top  of  it.  This  they  call  a  kennee.  The  musket  has  now, 
liowever,  in  a  great  measure  superseded  these  jirimitive 
weapons,  although  the  New  Zealanders  are  as  yet  far  from 
being  expert  in  the  use  of  it.  The  ships  that  touch  at  the 
country  always  find  it  the  readiest  way  of  obtaining  the  sup- 
plies they  want  from  the  native.';^  to  jmrchase  them  with  arn:s 
or  ammunition  ;  and  the  missionaries  v  ho  have  declined 
to  traffic  in  these  articles,  have  often  scarcely  been  able  to 
procure  a  single  pig  by  the  most  tempting  price  they  could 
ofl'er  in  another  shape. 

JOcal  music  is  one  of  the  favorite  amuscmevtK  ci{  Xhc  New 
Zealanders.  Destitute  as  they  are  of  the  art  of  writing,  they 
have  nevertheless,  their  song  poetry,  part  fif  which  is  tradi- 
tionary, and  j)art  the  jirodiice  of  such  jtassing  events  as 
strf)ngly  excite  their  feelings,  and  jtrompt  their  fancy  to  this 
only  work  of  composition  of  which  they  liave  any  knowledge. 
Certain  individuals  among  them  are  distinguished  for  their 
success  in  these  effusion.s  ;  but  tlie  pef)j)ie  iiil);ii)iting  the  vicini- 
ty fif  the  east  cape  seem  generally  to  enjoy  th(»  highest  repu- 
tati(»n  for  this  si)ecies  of  talent.  Their  wind  instruments  are 
similar  to  our  fiH's  or  (lutes.  One  which  is  frequently  to  be 
met  with  at  the  Hay  Islands  consists,  according  to  Mr.  Savage, 
of  a  tube  six  or  seven  inches  long,  o|ien  at  both  extremities, 
and  having  three  holes  on  one  side,  and  one  on  the  other. 
Another  is  formed  of  two  pieces  of  wood  bound  together  so 
as  to  make  a  tul)e  inflated  at  the  middle,  at  which  place  there 
18  a  single  hole.     It  is  blown  into  at  one  extremity,  wliile  the 


465  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

VOCAL   MDSIC. 

other  is  stopped  and  opened,  to  produce  different  modifica- 
tions of  the  sound. 

The  New  Zealanders  have  a  variety  of  national  dances ; 
but  none  of  them  have  been  minutely  described.  Some  of 
them  are  said  to  display  much  grace  of  movement;  others 
are  chiefly  remarkable  for  the  extreme  violence  with  which 
they  are  performed. 


AFRICA. 


Like  Asia,  Africa  is  a  continent,  or  ratlier  a  peninsula  of 
vast  extent — 5,n00  miles  in  length,  and  about  4,600  in  its 
greatest  breadth,  witli  an  area  of  nearly  ] 3,430,00(1  square 
miles,  and  a  j)opulation,  according  to  Malte  Briui,  of  7O,(l()O,000 

For  more  than  three  hundred  years,  the  ships  of  Europe 
have  been  circumnavigating  the  coasts  of  Africa;  but  until 
the  last  half  century,  its  interior  recesses  have  presented,  and, 
indeed,  at  the  present  day,  to  a  great  extiMit,  tiiey  present  "  a 
blank  in  Geograi)hy — a  physical,  and  not  less  a  moral  prob- 
lem— a  dark  and  bewildering  mystery."  "  The  spirit  of  en- 
terjirise,"  a  writer  eloquently  remarks,  "has  opened  the  way 
for  civilization  througii  tiie  primeval  forests  of  the  American 
continent,  has  traversed  the  boundless  steppes  of  the  South, 
and  planted  cities  in  the  heart  of  the  Andes.  But  the  rivers  of 
Africa  have  hitiierto  allorded  no  inlet  to  its  central  regions; 
and  the  liery  deserts  which  extrnd  from  Egypt  to  the  Atlantic, 
have  ))roved  a  barrier  against  the  uiarch  of  conquest  or  of 
civilization,  more  imi)assable  than  the  frozen  wilds  of  Siberia, 
or  the  Himalaya  itself!"* 

The  year  178S  Cf)ns(ituted  a  new  era  in  the  annals  of  Afri- 
can discovery.  Before  this,  motives  of  interest  had  alone 
guided  such  ent<M'prises  as  had  been  undertaken,  in  making 
researches  in  Africa  ;  but  an  association  wa.s  now  formed  con- 
sisting; of  men  of  rank  and  wealth,  the  fibject  of  whicii  was 
the  advancement  of  geographical  knowledge.  Under  this 
association,  Ledyard,  Lucas,  Houghton,  Park,  Horneman,  and 
Burckiiardt,  prosecuted  their  disccjveries.  At  a  still  later  date, 
f)e.sides  other.*^,  Denhaiii,  Ciapperton.  f.aing,  MacGill,  Tiickcy, 
and  last  tiu^  Landers,  Ilichaid  and  .Fului,  have  greatly  added 
to  our  knowlecige  of  the  geography  d  Africa,  and  also  of  its 
population.  To  (he  Landers,  it  may  be  mentioned  in  this  place, 
belongs  the  hor.orof  resolving  the  jirolilem  respecting  the  Ni- 
ger, or  Quorra,  which  for  years  had  occupied  tlie  attention  of 
the  whole  civilized  world.  By  means  of  this  river,  the  com- 
munication with  the- interior  of  Africa  may,  at  no  distant  day 
be  botli  easy  and  saJ<',  and  our  knowledge  of  its  "interior  re- 
I  cesses,"  bo  even  more  perfi.-ct,  than  it  now  is  of  its  maritime 
tribes. 

•  Modern  Traveller. 


New.Zeahnd  Priest.         P.  448. 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  457 

POPULATION, 

The  population  of  Africa,  with  which  we  are  now  chiefly 
concerned,  naturally  divides  itself  into  two  great  portions, 
north  and  south  of  the  mountains  of  Kong,  and  the  Jahel  al 
Komr,  which  give  rise  to  the  waters  of  the  Senegal,  the  Niger, 
and  the  Nile.  To  the  north  of  this  line,  Africa  is  ruled,  and 
partially  occupied,  by  foreign  races,  who  have  taken  posses- 
sion of  all  the  fertile  districts,  and  driven  the  aboriginal  popu- 
lation into  the  mountains  and  deserts  of  the  interior.  Here, 
the  Mohammedan  creed  maintains  its  ascendancy.  South  of 
this  line,  we  find  Africa  entirely  peopled  with  the  negro  race, 
■who  alone  seem  capable  of  sustaining  the  fiery  climate,  by 
means  of  a  redundant  physical  energy  scarcely  compatible 
with  the  full  development  of  the  intellectual  powei's  of  man. 
This  is  Central  Africa, — a  region,  as  has  been  eloquently  re- 
marked, "distinguished  from  all  others  by  its  productions  and 
climate  ;  by  the  simplicity,  and  yet  barbarian  magnificence  of 
its  states;  by  the  mildness,  and  yet  the  diabolical  ferocity  of  its 
inhabitants  ;  and  peculiarly  by  the  darker  nature  of  its  super- 
stitions,— the  magical  rites,  which  have  struck  with  awe  stran- 
gers in  all  ages,  and  which  present  something  inexplicable 
and  even  appalling  to  enlightened  Europeans.  The  Evil  Prin- 
ciple here  seems  to  reign  with  less  of  limitation,  and,  in  re- 
cesses inaccessible  to  white  men,  still  to  enchant  and  delude 
the  nations.  The  common  and  characteristic  mark  of  their 
superstition  is,  the  system  of  Fetiches,  by  which  an  individual 
appropriates  to  himself  some  casual  object  as  divine,  and 
which,  with  respect  to  him,  by  this  process  becomes  deified, 
and  exerts  a  peculiar  fatality  over  his  fortune.  The  barbarism 
of  Africa  may  be  attributed,  in  part,  to  its  great  fertility,  which 
enables  its  inhabitants  to  live  without  care,  but  chiefly  to  its 
imperviousness.  Every  petty  state  is  so  surrounded  with  na- 
tural barriers,  that  it  is  isolated  from  the  rest ;  and  though  it 
may  be  overrun  and  wasted,  and  part  of  its  inhabitants  car- 
ried into  captivity,  it  has  never  been  made  to  form  a  constit- 
uent part  of  one  large  consolidated  empire ;  and  thus,  smaller 
states  become  dependent  without  being  incorporated.  The 
whole  region  is  still  more  inaccessible  on  a  grand  scale,  than 
the  petty  states  are  in  miniature;  and  while  the  rest  of  the 
earth  has  become  trite  from  the  frequency  of  visiters,  it  still 
retains  part  of  the  mystery  which  hung  over  the  primitive 
and  untrodden  world."* 

With  these  general  remarks,  we  proceed  to  some  brief  no- 
tices of  the  principal  countries  of  Africa. 

♦  Douglas'  Hints  on  Missions. 
39 


458  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

BARBARY  STATES. 


1.  BARBARY  STATES. 

The  countries  included  under  tlie  general  description  of 
Barbary,  occupy  the  northern  extremity  of  Africa^  and  form  a 
narrow  strip  of  territory  along  tlie  south  side  of  the  Mediter- 
ranean. According  to  some  authorities,  the  length  from  east 
to  west  is  2,60n  miles ;  others  estimate  it  at  2,000.  The  width 
varies  from  110  to  550  miles.  The  juincipal  States  included 
in  this  territory  are  Trijjoli,  Tunis,  Algiers,  and  Morocco. 

The  inhabitants  are  a  very  mixed  race  ;  and  may  be  distri- 
buted into  different  classes;  such  as  Turks,  Moors,  Arabs. 
Berebbers,  Shelhihs,  Negroes,  aud  Jews. 

Of  these,  the  least  numerous  are  the  Tiirhs ;  but  they  are 
nevertheless  to  be  considered  as  the  sovereigns  of  North  and 
East  Barbary.  They  are  in  general  a  very  abandoned  race, 
the  refuse  of  Turkey,  chielly  composed  of  pirates  and  other 
banditti,  who  have  either  enlisted  in  the  service  of  Algiers, 
Tunis,  Tripoli,  or  who  have  fled  from  their  country  to  escape 
the  punishment  of  their  crimes. 

The  Moors,  who  may  be  considered  as  the  descendants  of 
those  who  were  driven  out  of  Spain,  reside  chiefly  in  the  towns 
and  villages.  They  have  a  sallow  complexion,  an  aquiline 
nose,  good  teeth,  black  eyes,  manly  features,  but  frequently  a 
very  ferocious  expression  of  countenance.  Their  limbs  are 
clumsily  shaped;  their  stature  is  conuuonly  above  the  middle 
size  ;  and  their  whole  figure  has  rather  a  commanding  ap- 
pearance. They  are  naturally  of  a  grave  and  pensive  dispo- 
sition, indolent  to  an  extreme,  and  roused  only  by  such  vio- 
lent passions  ;ls  avarice  and  hatred.  They  have  little  curiosity 
or  ambition  after  knowledge  ;  and  no  spirit  of  enterprise,  in- 
dustry, or  improvement. 

The  Arabs  of  Barbary  are  partly  the  descendants  of  those 
who  at  first  overrun  the  country,  under  their  Mohammedan 
leaders,"  and  who  have  still  kept  themselves  distinct  from  the 
other  inhabitants;  and  partly  emigrants  from  Sahara,  who 
advance  into  the  more  northern  districts,  whenever  the  de- 
populations of  the  plagnej  or  other  calamities,  afford  admis- 
sion to  a  new  colony.  They  are  divided  into  a  large  nund)er 
of  tribes,  which  never  mingle  by  intermarriages,  and  which 
are  often  at  war  with  each  other.  They  live  in  tents  ;  and 
generally  form  their  encampments  at  a  considerable  distance 
from  any  town  or  village.  Their  occujiation  consists  in  ta 
king  care  of  their  flocks  and  herds,  and  in  raising  a  lUtle 
•wheat  or  barley.  When  the  land  round  their  residence;  has 
become  less  productive,  and  their  cattle  have  consumed  all 
the  pasture,  they  strike  their  tents,  and  remove  to  a  more  fer- 
tile spot. 

The  Jirebfs,  or  Berebbers.  inhabit  the  mountains  of  North 
Atlas;  and  are  supposed  to  be  (he  offspring  of  the  original 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  459 

INHABITANTS. 

inhabitants  of  Barbary,  who  retired  thither  upon  the  conquest 
of  their  country,  and  who  have  still  in  a  great  measure  pre- 
served their  independence.  They  are  of  a  fairer  complexion 
than  the  Arabs,  of  an  active  and  industrious  disposition,  of  a 
robust  and  athletic  frame  of  body.  In  the  higher  grounds, 
they  dwell  in  caves  ;  but,  in  the  valleys,  they  occupy  tents  or 
huts  of  earth.  They  seldom  change  their  place  of  residence; 
and  employ  themselves  in  cultivating  the  soil,  tending  cattle, 
rearing  bees,  and  pursuing  wild  beasts.  They  are  very  in- 
trepid hunters,  dexterous  marksmen,  and  capable  of  enduring 
the  greatest  fatigue. 

The  Shelhihs  inhabit  the  mountains  of  South  Atlas,  and  are 
often  confounded  with  the  Berebbers  ;  but  they  are  ascer- 
tained to  be  a  distinct  race,  and  to  speak  a  different  language. 
They  live  generally  in  towns  and  villages,  are  chiefly  em- 
ployed in  husbandry,  and  are  very  simple  and  peaceful  in 
their  manners.  They  are  a  very  meager  people,  and  remark- 
ably abstemious  in  t.heir  diet;  subsisting  almost  entirely  upon 
barley  bread  and  honey. 

Negroes  are  very  numerous  in  Barbary,  especially  in  the 
empire  of  Morocco,  where  about  30,000  of  them  were  imbod- 
ied  as  troops,  in  the  year  1780,  by  the  emperor  Muley  Ishmael. 
They  are  to  be  found  also  in  every  part  of  the  country,  and 
almost  in^very  famij)^,  in  the  state  of  slaves.  Their  condition, 
however,  m  this  respect,  is  very  different  from  that  of  their 
countrymen,  who  are  transported  to  the  West  India  Islands; 
and  they  experience  a  treatment  much  more  humane  than  the 
general  character  of  their  Moorish  masters  would  warrant  us 
to  expect. 

The  Jexcs  of  Barbary,  whose  ancestors  were  expelled  from 
Portugal  and  Spain,  are  diffused  over  the  whole  country;  and 
are  found  even  in  the  mountains  of  Atlas,  exercising  mechan- 
ical trades  amon^  the  Berebbers.  They  are  subject  to  every 
conceivable  species  of  oppression,  and  are  frequently  treated 
even  more  harshly  than  the  beast  of  burden.  They  are  not 
permitted  to  possess  lands,  to  wear  a  sword,  to  ride  a  horse, 
or  to  leave  the  country  without  special  permission.  They  are 
obliged  to  wear  such  a  habit  as  may  distinguish  them  at  first 
sight;  to  address  every  Mussulman  by  the  title  of  seedy  or  sig- 
nor  ;  and  to  pull  off  their  sandals,  whenever  they  approach  any 
religious  structure  or  consecrated  spot. 

The  few  Christians  who  reside  in  Barbary,  are  temporary 
visiters,  for  purposes  of  trade,  the  consuls  of  European  states, 
the  slaves  of  Moorish  corsairs,  the  inhabitants  of  the  Spanish 
settlements,  and  deserters  from  the  Spanish  garrisons.  From 
a  regard  to  their  respective  nations,  they  may  sometimes  ex- 
perience the  protection  of  the  constituted  authorities;  but,  by 
the  Moors  in  general,  they  are  held  in  as  great  contempt  as 
the  Jews ;  and  are  exposed  to  every  species  of  insult  that 
bigotry  and  brutality  can  devise. 

In  all  the  states  of  Barbary,  \he  government  is  of  the  most 


460  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 


BARBARY  STATES. 


despotic  description ;  and  the  inliahitants  are  .sui)ject  to  the 
most  degrading  oppressions.  The  supreme  power  is  entirely 
without  control;  and  the  lives  and  property  of  the  natives  are 
wholly  at  the  disposal  of  their  rulers.  Every  kind  of  cruelty 
and  injustice  is  systematically  practised;  and  it  is  even  said 
to  be  a  maxim  of  government  in  this  unhappy  country,  that, 
in  order  to  rule  the  people  elfectually,  there  should  always  be 
a  "  stream  of  blood  flowing  from  the  throne." 

The  re/Z^io/iof  Barbary  is  the  Mohammedan,  of  which  it  is 
unnecessary  to  give  a  detailed  account;  but  which,  it  may  be 
observed,  the  Moors  have  greatly  relaxed  with  respect  to 
many  of  its  precepts,  and  which,  on  the  other  hand,  they  have 
burdened  with  many  additional  superstitions.  They  secretly 
d»-ink  wine  without  scruple,  and  often  to  great  excess  ;  and 
easily  satisfy  their  consciences  by  j)rofessing  to  take  it  as  a 
medicine.  In  like  manner,  they  render  any  prohibited  food 
perfectly  lawful,  by  merely  ascribing  to  it  some  medicinal 
quality. 

The  state  of  knoichdire  in  Barbary  is  low  in  the  extreme  ; 
and  the  modern  Moois  have  not  the  smallest  portion  of  the 
literary  spirit  of  their  ancestors.  They  are  not  deficient  in 
natural  geniu.s  and  abilities  ;  but  their  minds  are  degradi.-d  by 
their  oppressive  government,  and  cramped  by  their  limited  ed- 
ucation. In  the  state  of  childhood,  they  display  an  uncommon 
share  of  acuteness  and  vivacity;  and  are  remarkable,  while  at 
school,  for  their  memory  and  application,  but  after  having  been 
taught  to  repeat  a  few  select  passages  from  the  koran,  and  per- 
haps also  to  read  and  write,  their  |)rogress  in  learning  is  termi- 
nated, and  they  are  allowed  to  grow  up  without  any  farther 
discipline  or  instruction. 

The  mechanic  arts^  likewise,  are  in  a  very  rude  state  among 
tlie  Moors,  and  seem  to  have  undergone  no  improvement  what- 
ever for  many  ages  past.  'I'heir  todls  are  very  few  and  sim- 
ple :  their  implements  of  husbamlry,  &c.,  especially  their 
l)loughs,  mills,  looms,  forges,  are  all  in  miniature,  and  at  the 
same  time  most  clumsily  constructed.  A  goldsmith,  for  in- 
stance, will  come  to  work  for  his  employer  in  the  corner  of  a 
court,  where  he  soon  fixes  his  stall.  His  anvil,  hammer,  bel- 
lows, files,  and  melting  ladles,  are  all  brought  along  with  him 
in  a  bag.  His  bellows  are  made  of  a  goat-skin,  into  which  he 
inserts  a  reed;  and  holding  this  with  one  hand,  he  presses  the 
l)agwith  the  other,  and  thus  blows  and  kindles  his  fire.  Other 
trades  are  carried  on  with  the  same  rude  simplicity;  and  yet, 
so  ingenious  are  the  workmen,  that  they  can  accomplish  com- 
l)arativcly  great  things,  by  the  most  inadecjuate  means. 

The  Moorisk  houses  are  very  dark  and  gloomy,  as  the  win- 
dows are  extremely  small,  and  all  look  into  the  court,  except 
perhaps  one  lattice  or  balcony,  above  the  gateway  towards  the 
street,  which,  however,  is  very  seldom  opened,  unless  on  festi- 
val days.  The  stairs  are  either  in  the  porch,  or  in  the  cor- 
ners of  the  court.     The  roofs  are  flat,  covercxl  with  plaster 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  461 

DIET. 


and  surrounded  with  a  parapet :  there  the  female  part  of  the 
family  are  accustomed  to  walk,  and  amuse  themselves  in  the 
cool  of  the  evening.  To  the  habitations  of  the  more  wealthy, 
an  additional  building  is  frequently  attached,  called  the  Alee, 
or  Oleah ;  the  apartments  of  which  are  used  as  wardrobes,  as 
places  of  greater  retirement,  or  as  lodgings  for  strangers. 
The  houses  are  generally  whitened  on  the  outside ;  and  ap- 
pear, at  a  distance,  like  vaulted  tombs  in  a  churchyard.  The 
villages  are  always  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  towns,  and 
are  composed  of  huts  of  stone,  earth,  and  reeds,  surrounded 
with  thick  and  high  hedges. 

The  inhabitants  of  Barbary  are  remarkably  abstemious  in 
their  diet;  and  can  subsist  upon  a  very  small  quantity  of  the 
simplest  nourishment.     The  lower  classes,  especially  among 
the  Arabs,  live  chiefly  upon  the  roots  of  vegetables,  wild  fruits, 
and  a  mixture  of  meal  and  water  ;  a  few  balls  of  which,  or  a 
few  dates,  and  a  draught  of  camel's  milk,  will  often  support 
them  on  a  journey  for  a  whole  day.     The  principal  dish  among 
all  ranks,  from  the  prince  to  the  peasant,  is  cuscasoe,  a  kind  of 
granulated  paste,  made  of  flour  very  coarsely  ground,  heaped 
up  in  a  vessel  full  of  small  holes,  placed  above  the  pot  in  which 
the  vegetables,  or  flesh  meat  is  boiled,  and  in  this  manner 
stewed  by  the  rising  vapor  ;  it  is  then  mixed  with  soup,  milk, 
butter,  honey,  spices,  pot-herbs,   or  animal  food.     The  more 
opulent  persons  have  various  preparations  of  almonds,  dates, 
sweetmeats,  milk,  honej^,  and  other  delicacies  ;  and  all  ranks 
in  Barbary  use  a  great  proportion  of  bread,  of  which  they 
often  make  a  meal,  with  the  addition  of  a  little  oil,  vinegar,  or 
milk.     The  Moors,  agreeably  to  the  .TewisIT  custom,  cut  the 
throats  of  all  the  animals  which  they  use  for  food,  at  the  same 
time  turning  their  heads  towards  Mecca  in  adoration  of  their 
prophet ;  and   after  suffering  them  to  bleed  freely,  they  care- 
fully wash  away  the  remaining  blood,  and  divide  the  meat 
into  small  pieces  about  tv.^o  pounds  in  weight.     The  natives  of 
Barbary  are  very  regular  with  respect  to  the  hours  of  eating. 
They  breakfast  soon  after  daybreak ;    take  a  slight  repast 
about  noon;  and  make  their  principal   meal  at  sunset     At 
these  seasons,  a  large,  flat  earthen  dish,  full  of  the  prepared 
food,  is  placed  upon  a  low,  round  tray,  or  merely  set  upon  the 
floor.     Around  this  the  family  seat  themselves  cross-legged, 
upon  mats;  and,  having  previously  washed  their  hands,  they 
tear  the  meat  with  their  fingers,  and  form  it,  along  with  the 
cuscasoe,  into  little  balls,  which  they  throw  with  a  dexterous 
erk  into  their  mouths.     They  make  no  use  of  knives  and 
forks,  and  very  rarely  even  of  spoons.     The  male  part  of  the 
family  eat  in  one  company;  the  females  in  another;  and  the 
children,  with  the  servants,  in  the  third.     But  among  the  Arabs 
and  Beiebbers,  the  master  of  the  tent  generally  eats  alone  ; 
the  dish  then  passes  to  the  children,  next  to  the  wives,  and 
lastly  to  the  domestics.     After  eating,  they  again  wash  their 
hands,  mouth,  and  beard  ;  but  sometimes  content  themselves 
39* 


462  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

BARBARY    STATES. 

with  wiping  their  fingers  on  their  clothes,  or  on  the  woolly- 
heads  of  tiieir  negro  slaves.  It  must  be  observed,  also,  that, 
before  beginning  a  repast,  and  even  l)efore  entering  upon  any 
kind  of  work,  tliey  reverently  utter  the  word  Jiismillafi,  thatis, 
"in  the  name  of  God  ;"  and  upon  concluding  their  meals,  or 
completing  any  undertaking,  they  say,  in  like  manner,  Alhan- 
dilldh,  that  is,  "God  be  praised." 

The  Moorifih  dress  consists  of  a  shirt  and  drawers,  the  for- 
mer worn  over  the  latter,  and  reaching  to  the  knee.  Over  this 
is  a  caftan,  or  coat,  buttoned  down  the  front,  and  confined  to 
the  body  by  a  sash.  The  head  is  covered  with  a  red  cap  and 
turban,  and  the  feet  with  yellow  slippers,  or  sandals.  The 
legs  and  arms  are  biire.  When  they  go  out,  they  throw  care- 
lessly over  the  head  a  piece  of  white  cotton,  or  silk,  called  a 
haijk,  five  or  six  yards  in  length,  and  nearly  as  many  in 
breadth.  In  presence  of  a  superior,  the  hayk  is  sufiered 
to  fall  upon  the  shoulders;  but  the  turban  is  never  taken  off 
nor  moved.  The  female  dress  resembles  that  of  the  men,  ex- 
cept in  the  adjustment  of  the  hayk,  the  preference  of  the  most 
gaudy  colours,  and  the  slippers  being  red.  They  also  wear 
rings,  bracelets,  and  other  ornaments,  in  profusion. 

The  natives  of  Barbary  marry  at  a  very  early  age  ;  and 
generally  without  having  had  much  opportunity  to  establish 
an  attachment  of  alfection.  In  forming  matrimonial  connex- 
ions, the  parents  of  the  parties  may  .he  said  to  be  the  only 
agents  ;  and  it  frequently  happens  that  the  bride  and  bride- 
groom do  not  see  each  other  till  the  ceremony  is  performed. 
During  several  days  before  marriage,  the  bride  remains  at 
home  to  receive  the  congratulations  of  her  friends,  to  be  in- 
structed by  the  taeh,  or  priest,  in  the  duties  of  the  married 
state,  and  to  undergo  the  process  of  a  fresh  painting.  During 
this  ]ieriod  the  bridegroom  receives  the  visits  of  his  friends 
in  the  mornings;  and  in  the  evenings  is  paraded  through  the 
streets  on  horseback,  attended  by  a  musie;d  hand  of  hautboys, 
drums,  triangli'.s,  &c.;  and  smrounded  by  his  male  relations 
and  acquaintance.s,  who  testify  their  joy  on  these  occasions,  by 
dancing,  and  junipintr.  and  twirling  their  n)uskets  in  the  air,  by 
exhibiting  their  liorsemanshij),  and  by  firing  in  the  face  and  at 
the  feet  of  the  bridegroom.  On  the  day  of  the  marriage,  the 
brid(!  is  placed  in  a  stpiare  vehicle,  about  twelve  feet  in  cir- 
cumference, covered  with  white  linen,  or  variegated  silk,  and 
fixed  on  the  back  of  a  mule.  In  this  litter,  she  is  cairied 
tlirough  the  town,  in  the  midst  of  her  relatives  and  compan- 
ions, accompanied  with  the  light  of  torches,  the  soimd  of  mu- 
sical instruments,  and  the  frefjuent  volleys  of  musketry.  In 
this  manner  she  jscoiiductecl  to  the  house  of  her  intended  hu.s- 
banil,  who  returns  about  the  sanx'  time,  from  a  similar  exhi- 
bition :  and  great  care  is  taken  that  she  does  not  touch  the 
threshold  of  the  door  as  she  enters.  She  then  sits  down  with 
her  han^l  over  her  eyes,  and  the  company  retires  ;  the  bride- 
groom is  introduced  to  her  alone,  perhaps  for  the  first  time 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  463 

MODE    OP    SALUTATION — AMUSEMENTS. 

takes  off  her  veil,  and  receives  her  as  his  wife,  without  any 
farther  ceremony. 

The  usual  mode  of  salutation  in  Barbary,  is  to  put  the  right 
hand  on  the  breast,  to  make  a  gentle  inclination  of  the  head, 
and  in  this  posture  to  give  the  salem  ali^k,  or  the  wish  of  peace. 
If  the  parties  are  intimately  acquainted,  they  shake  hands 
with  a  very  quick  motion  ;  or  merely  make  the  extremities  of 
their  fingers  meet,  and  then  each  puts  his  own  to  his  lips ;  or 
mutiially  embrace,  kissing  the  forehead,  shoulders,  or  beard. 
They  then  inquire  after  the  health  of  the  relatives  in  due  or- 
der :  and  among  the  Arabs,  on  these  occasions,  the  mare, 
flock,  and  even  the  tent,  are  not  forgotten;  but  while  putting 
these  questions,  they  seldom  wait  for  a  reply,  and  are  often 
far  beyond  each  other's  hearing,  before  they  have  finished 
their  several  interrogatories.  When  they  accost  a  superior, 
they  make  the  hayk,  which  is  usually  thrown  loosely  over  the 
bead,  fall  back  upon  the  shoulders;  generally  pvll  off  their 
slippers  as  they  approach,  and  respectfully  kiss  his  hand,  or 
merely  that  part  of  his  hayk  which  covers  his  arm.,  or  some- 
times even  his  feet.  The  superior  in  these  cases  presents  the 
back  of  his  hand  for  salutation  ;  and  it  is  accounted  an  indi- 
cation of  great  favor  when  he  offers  the  palm.  The  compli- 
menj:  due  to  a  sovereign,  and  to  any  of  his  family,  is  to  un- 
cover the  head,  and  then  to  prostrate,  or  rather  bend,  the  body 
to  the  ground.  It  is  common  in  Barbary  to  address  a  pecu- 
liar salutation  to  a  person  who  is  eating,  drinking,  smoking, 
sneezing,  or  belching;  namely,  saJia,  "may  it  do  you  good." 

Among  the  amusements  of  the  Moors  may  be  mentioned  the 
sports  of  the  field,  such  as  hawking,  which  is  much  practised 
in  Tiniis,  where  there  is  a  great  variety  of  falcons;  and  fowl- 
ing, in  which  the  sportsman  makes  no  use  of  dogs,  but  con- 
ceals himself  under  an  oblong  frame  of  canvass,  painted  like 
a  leopard,  in  which  a^  two  or  three  holes,  that  he  may  per- 
ceive what  passes,  and  push  out  his  musket,  when  he  is  suffi- 
ciently near  to  the  birds.  They  often  take  partridges  by  tun- 
nelling, or  enclosing  them  in  a  net  by  means  of  a  decoy  bird, 
in  a  c:ige;  and  sometimes  by  springing  the  coveys  repeated- 
ly, til!  the  birds  become  fatigued,  when  they  take  them  with 
dogs,  or  knock  them  down  with  sticks.  A  whole  district  is 
often  assembled  to  hunt  the  lion  and  leopard.  The  company 
encompass  a  space  of  three  or  four  miles  in  circumference, 
gradually  contracting  their  circle  as  they  proceed ;  the  foot- 
men, with  dogs  and  spears,  advancing  in  the  front,  while  the 
horsemen  are  a  little  behind,  ready  to  charge  upon  the  first 
sally  of  the  wild  beasts.  Sometimes  they  form  traps  for  the 
animals  by  digging  holes  in  the  ground,  formed  like  an  invert- 
ed cone,  and  slightly  covered  with  earth.  At  other  times,  the 
Shelluhs  and  Berebbers  take  their  stations,  near  the  resort  of 
these  destructive  animals,  sometimes  on  the  top  of  a  tree,  and 
sometimes  in  small  round  towers  built  for  the  purpose,  with  a 
hole  or  two  in  the  wall  for  a  musket;  and  will  patiently  re- 


464  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

BAHnARY  STATES. 

main  in  those  places  for  whole  days,  living  on  barley  meal 
and  water.  Their  manner  of  hiintins;  the  hyena  is  also  very 
singular,  and  deserves  to  be  particularly  mentioned.  Ten  or 
twelve  persons  repair  to  the  rave  which  the  animal  is  under- 
stood to  frequent,  and  .in  which  he  always  remains  through 
the  day.  Oin^  of  these  strips  himself  naked,  seizes  a  dagger 
in  one  hand,  and  taking  the  end  of  a  rope  with  a  noose  in  the 
other,  he  advances  sradually  into  the  cave,  speaking  gently, 
with  an  insinuating  tone  of  voice,  as  if  with  a  view  to  fascinate 
the  hyena.  When  he  has  reached  the  animal,  he  strokes  his 
back  in  order  to  soothe  him,  dexterously  slips  the  noose  round 
his  neck,  throws  a  piece  of  cloth  over  liis  face,  pulls  the  rope 
at  the  same  instant  to  indicate  to  Iiis  companions  that  it  is 
fixed  ;  and  then  ri-tiring  behind,  urgi\s  the  animal  forward, 
while  the  dogs  attack  him  in  front,  as  he  is  dragged  along.  In 
the  ])ursuit  of  the  ostrich,  the  Arabs  make  use  of  the  desert 
horse,  and  sot  out  in  a  party  of  twenty,  or  more,  riding  gently 
against  the  wind,  one  after  the  other,  at  th<>  distance  of  about 
half  a  mile  asunder,  till  they  discover  the  footmarks  of  the 
bird.  When  they  come  in  sight  of  their  game,  they  rush  for- 
ward at  full  speed,  always  f)t)sorving  the  same  relative  dis- 
tance. The  ostrich,  fmding  her  wings  an  impediment  to  her 
progress  when  thus  moving  against  the  wind,  turns  to\\ards 
her  pursuers,  endeavoring  to  pass  them;  and  though  sh»;  may 
escape  the  first  or  second,  she  is  generally  brought  down  by 
the  musket  or  bludgeon  of  those  that  follow. 

When  any  one  die>i,  a  nun)ber  of  women  are  liired  for  the 
purpose  f>f  lamentation  ;  and  they  perform  their  duty,  by  ma- 
king the  most  frightful  bowlings,  by  beatirig  their  heads  and 
breasts,  and  tearing  their  faces  with  the  nails  of  their  fingers. 
Tht>y  are  so  expert  in  the  expressions  of  grief  that  they  sel- 
dom fail,  by  their  mournful  sounds  and  afflicted  gestures,  to 
impres.-;  the  funeral  assembly  with  the  deepest  thoughtluhiess 
and  sf)irow.  The  dead  are  interred  a  few  hours  alter  their 
decease;  and  the  greatest  importance  is  attached  to  the  riles 
of  burial.  It  is  an  ojiinion  amontr  the  Moors,  as  it  wasamring 
the  ancient  heathen,  that  the  souls  of  those  who  have  not  re- 
ceived proper  interment,  are  excluded  from  the  abodes  of  the 
blessed;  and  hence,  it  is  accounted  the  most  dreadfiil  of  all 
punishments  to  be  cut  to  pieces  and  thrown  to  the  dogs.  As 
soon  as  the  dying  person  has  breathed  his  last,  tlie  body  is 
carefully  washed,  and  sewed  up  in  a  winding-sheet  of  white 
cloth  :  for  this  purpose,  cloth  that  has  been  brought  from  Mec- 
ca, and  bles^c(l  by  the  Imam  of  that  city,  is  most  highly  valu- 
ed. The  corpse  is  next  ple.cod  on  a  bier,  and  carriod  on  horse- 
back, or  men's  shoulih-rs,  to  the  buryimr-ground,  whi(di  is  al- 
ways on  the  outside  of  the  town,  ar.d  of  which  every  family 
has  a  portion  walled  in  for  tlitir  own  use.  All  devout  persons 
account  it  a  highly  meritorious  duty  to  assist  in  those  rites; 
and  t<j  accomjjany,  at  least,  a  part  of  the  way,  every  dead  bo- 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  465 

NUBIA. 

dy  which  they  may  happen  to  meet.  The  attendants  walk 
two  abreast,  go  very  quick,  and  sing  hymns  adapted  to  the 
occasion.  The  grave  is  made  wide  at  the  bottom,  and  nar- 
row at  the  top ;  and  the  body  is  deposited  on  its  side,  with  the 
face  towards  the  east,  and  the  right  hand  under  the  head, 
pointing  towards  Mecca,  while  one  of  the  priests  generally 
puts  into  the  hand  a  letter  of  recommendation  to  Mohammed. 
An  arch  is,  in  most  cases,  formed  over  the  body  with  branch- 
es of  trees,  to  keep  off  the  earth;  different  kinds  of  vessels  and 
utensils  are  frequently  interred  along  with  the  corpse ;  large 
stones,  are  placed  upon  the  grave,  to  resist  the  attempts  of 
wild  beasts;  and  a  flag  is  finally  erected  over  the  spot.  It  is 
customary  for  the  female  relatives  to  weep  at  the  tombs  of 
their  deceased  friends  for  several  days  after  the  funeral ;  and 
all,  who  pass  by  a  burying-ground,  offer  up  prayers  for  the 
dead.  When  a  wife  loses  her  husband  by  death,  she  mourns 
four  months  and  eight  days,  during  which  period  she  wears 
no  silver  or  gold ;  and  if  she  happens  to  be  pregnant,  she  must 
continue  mourning  till  her  delivery,  while  the  relations  of  her 
late  husband  are  bound,  in  the  mean  time,  to  provide  for  her 
.subsistence.  The  men  usually  express  their  grief  by  abstain- 
ing from  shaving  their  head,  from  trimming  their  beard,  and 
from  paring  their  nails.* 


2.  NUBIA. 


South  of  Egypt  is  Nubia,  the  inhabitants  of  which  derive 
their  origin  from  the  Bedouin  Arabs,  who  invaded  the  coun- 
try after  the  invasion  of  Mahometism.  The  men  are  some- 
what below  the  Egyptians  in  stature,  but  generally  well  made, 
strong,  and  muscular,  with  fine  features.  The  women,  the 
most  virtuous  of  the  East,  possess  good  figures,  with  pleasing 
though  not  handsome  countenances,  and  engaging  manners. 
They  are,  however,  worn  down  by  continual  labor  from  their 
earliest  years;  the  whole  business  of  the  household  being  lefl 
to  them,  while  the  men  attend  only  to  the  culture  of  the  soil. 

North  of  Dehr,  the  metropolis  of  the  country,  the  usual  dress 
of  the  men  is  only  a  linen  shirt,  the  usual  color  of  which,  among 
the  wealthy,  is  blue.  The  cloak  worn  by  the  Egyptian  peas- 
ant is  also  in  use.  The  head-dress  is  a  small  linen  cap,  with 
sometimes  a  few  rags  twisted  round  it  by  way  of  a  turban. 
Boys  and  girls  go  quite  naked.  The  women  wrap  themselves 
in  black  linen  gowns,  and  wear  ear-rings  and  glass  bracelets . 
such  as  cannot  afford  to  purchase  the  latter,  make  bracelets 
of  straw.     Their  hair  hangs  in  ringlets,  and  is  ornamented  be- 

*  New  Edinburgh  Encyclopedia. 


4G6  UNIVERSAL    TRAVELLER. 

NUBIA. 

hind  with  pieces  of  glass,  or  stones,  which  are  toiisidrred  as 
amulets. 

South  of  Dehr,  a  small  apron,  or  a  piece  of  cloth  about  the 
waist,  is  all  that  is  worn. 

The  Nubians  seldom  go  unarmed :  as  soon  as  a  boy  grows 
up,  his  first  care  is  to  purcliase  a  short,  crooked  knife,  which 
he  ties  over  his  loft  elbow,  under  his  shirt,  and  is  always  rea- 
dy to  draw  it  upon  the  slightest  quarrel.  When  he  goes  from 
one  village  to  another,  the  Nubian  carries  a  heavy  stick,  load- 
ed with  iron  at  one  end  ;  besides  which  he  is  armed  with  a 
lance  and  shield.  Some  have  swords  also  ;  but  fire-arms  and 
ammunition  are  scarce. 

The  habitulinns  of  the  people  ar-e  constructed  either  with 
mud  or  loose  stones.  Tiie  latter  sort  generally  stand  on  the 
declivity  of  the  hills,  and  consist  of  two  separate  and  circular 
buildings,  one  for  the  males,  and  tlie  other  for  the  females. 
The  mud  dwellings  are  commonly  so  low,  that  a  person  can 
scarcely  stand  upright  in  them.  They  are  covered  with  the 
stalks  of  the  dhourra,  which  are  soon  eaten  up  by  the  cattle, 
and  then  their  place  is  supplied  by  palm-leaves.  The  houses 
of  the  richer  inhabitants  frequently  surround  an  area,  or  en- 
closed space,  with  the  men's  apartments  separated  from  those 
of  the  women.  Their  principal  utensils  consist  of  about  half 
a  dozen  coarse  earthen  jars,  in  which  the  provisions  are  kept, 
a  few  earthen  plates,  a  hand-mill,  a  hatchet,  and  some  round 
sticks,  over  which  the  loom  is  laid.  Nu')ia  possesses  but  few 
groups  of  houses  deserving  the  name  of  towns;  and  the  vil- 
lages are,  for  the  most  part,  widelj'  si'parated. 

Among  the  chief  articles  of  Nubian  did,  arc  coarse  cakes 
made  of  dhourra  ;  which  is  ground  by  the  women  every  morn- 
ing, and  kneaded  and  baked  in  a  few  minutes.  Palm  wine  is 
to  be  had  in  most  of  the  villages  ;  and  a  liipjor  resembling 
beer,  called  boiiza,  is  made  from  both  dhoiura  and  barley. 
The  Nubians  purchase  their  wives,  and  are  extremely  jealous 
of  their  honor.  Upon  the  slightest  suspicion,  the  husband 
drags  his  unfortunate  wife  by  night  to  the  banks  of  the  river, 
and  after  catling  open  her  bosom  with  his  knife,  throws  her 
into  the  water,  "  to  be  food  for  the  crocodiles.'-  Otherwise, 
they  are  kind  in  disposition,  hospitable  to  strangers,  fond  or" 
singing,  and  so  extremely  honest,  that  pilfering  is  scarcely 
known  among  them.  Curiosity  is  one  of  their  most  prominent 
characteristics;  and  they  ask  their  guest  a  thousand  rpies- 
tions  about  the  place  he  came  from,  and  the  business  that 
brought  him  into  their  country. 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  467 


ABYSSINIA. 


3.  ABYSSINIA. 

South  of  Nubia  lies  Abyssinia,  which  is  generally  described 
as  formiiT^  an  extensive  table-land,  gently  inclining  to  the 
northwest.  The  population  of  this  country  is  uncertain.  They 
consist  of  many  tribes  of  various  colors;  some  black;  some 
fair,  though  not  exactly  white ;  and  some  of  copper  hue  ;  the 
prevailing  color  is  olive.  They  are  tall,  graceful,  and  well- 
featured.  The  principal  part  of  their  dress  consists  of  a  long 
piece  of  cotton  cloth,  wrapped  like  a  mantle  about  the  body, 
to  which  are  added  short  drawers,  and  a  girdle  of  cloth.  The 
costume  of  women  of  rank  is  composed  of  the  richest  silks, 
frequently  ornamented  with  jewels,  trinkets,  and  images. 
Their  chief  food  is  the  different  species  of  grain  produced  in 
the  country,  particularly  teff,  with  honey,  and  the  flesh  of  sheep 
and  oxen,  which  they  generally  eat  raw.  As  no  man  of  con- 
sequence in  Abyssinia  ever  feeds  himself,  or  touches  his  vic- 
tuals, a  female  sits  on  each  side  of  him,  who  cuts  the  raw  flesh, 
still  warm  in  the  blood,  into  small  pieces,  which  they  roll  up 
in  pieces  of  the  tefFcake,  and  alternately  thrust  thern  into  his 
mouth.  When  he  is  satisfied,  they  regale  themselves  with 
what  remains;  and  the  repast  is  concluded  with  copious 
draughts  of  bouza,  or  maize  wine. 

In  Abyssinia,  females  are  allowed  to  appear  in  public,  and 
converse  freely  with  the  men.  Those  of  the  higher  classes 
are  unguarded  in  their  conduct;  but  women  of  the  lower  or- 
ders are  often  exemplary,  and  engage  in  the  most  laborious 
offices  of  domestic  life.  One  of  their  chief  employments  is  to 
grind  corn  for  the  family  by  hand-mills. 

Marriage  in  this  country  is  generally  a  simple  contract, 
over  which  the  priest  has  no  control.  When  a  man  is  desi- 
rous of  marriage,  he  applies  to  the  parents  or  nearest  relatives 
of  the  female  of  his  choice,  and  their  consent  ends  the  busi- 
ness :  the  girl  being  rarely  consulted  on  the  occasion.  The 
settUng  of  the  dower  which  she  is  to  bring,  is  of  much  more 
importance,  and  sometimes  attended  with  serious  difficulties. 
When,  however,  this  is  adjusted,  the  friends  of  both  parties 
assemble,  the  marriage  is  declared,  and  after  a  day  spent  in 
festivity,  the  bride  is  carried  to  the  house  of  her  husband,  ei- 
ther upon  his  own  shoulders,  or  those  of  his  friends.  The 
wife  does  not  change  her  name  ;  and  her  dower  is  kept  apart 
from  her  husband's  property,  to  be  returned,  should  his  ill- 
treatment  force  her  to  abandon  him. 

The  Abyssinians  are  eyitxemeXy  superstitions.  Among  other 
strange  fancies,  they  believe  that  all  workers  in  iron  have  the 
power  of  transforming  themselves  into  hysenas,  that  they  may 
glut  themselves  with  human  flesh;  and  all  bodily  injuries  which 
they  may  chance  to  sustain  during  their  disguise,  are  sup- 
posed to  leave  a  corresponding  wound  in  their  proper  frames ! 


468  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 


AKYSSINIA. 


When  getting  out  on  a  journey,  they  pay  particular  attention 
to  a  sincrular  species  of  falcon,  of  a  deep  brown  color,  with  a 
white  breast.  If  it  sit  still,  with  the  breast  towards  them, 
while  they  pass,  it  is  a  good  sign,  and  the  business  they  are 
going  upon  is  expected  to  prosper:  if  its  back  be  turned 
towards  them,  it  is  thougiit  unpropitious,  though  not  .suffi- 
ciently so  as  to  create  alarm  ;  but  should  it  fly  away  on  their 
approach,  they  return  home  and  wait  for  a  more  favorable 
opportunity. 

When  a  person  is  seized  with  the  fever,  called  Tigrc  Ter,a. 
disease  peculiar  to  the  country,  the  relations  expose  to  hia 
sight  all  the  fine  clothes  and  ornaments  of  gold  and  silver  they 
can  collect,  or  borrow,  making  at  the  same  time  as  much 
noise  as  possible  with  drums,  trumjiets,  and  vociferous  out- 
cries, in  order  to  drive  out  of  the  patient  the  devil,  by  whom 
they  believe  him  to  be  possessed.  As  soon,  however,  as  the 
sick  person  approaches  the  moment  of  death,  the  drums  and 
trumpets  cease,  and  a  mournful  howl  is  set  up.  When  the 
deatli  is  announced,  the  friends  tear  their  hair,  scratch  the 
skin  from  their  temples,  and  throw  themselves  on  the  ground, 
sobbing  and  screaming  in  all  the  agony  of  despair;  and  in 
this  they  are  joined  by  all  the  neighbors  and  acquaintance  of 
the  deceased,  with  their  several  dependants. 

Soon  after  death,  the  body,  having  been  carefully  washed 
and  fumigated  with  incense,  is  sewed  up  in  one  of  the  cloths 
which  the  deceased  wore  in  his  lifetime,  and  carritnl  to  the 
grave  by  the  relations;  and  while  it  is  being  deposited  in  the 
earth,  the  priests  recite  an  appointed  form  of  prayer.  On  the 
following  day,  or  as  soon  afterwards  as  the  friends  of  the 
party  can  be  assembled,  a  feast  is  held  in  honor  of  the  de- 
ceased, which  comn)ences  witli  a  procession  to  the  grave,  at- 
tended by  hired  female  mourners,  who  rend  the  air  with  their 
outcries  ;  and  concludes  with  eating  to  excess,  and  drinking 
till  the  whole  a.ssemi)ly  is  intoxicated.  This  strange  kind  of 
commemoration  is  repeated  several  times  in  the  course  of  the 
year,  every  new  relation  striving  to  outdo  the  rest  in  the 
splendor  of  his  entertainment.  An  attendance  at  these  meet- 
ings is  considered  the  highest  honor  that  can  be  conferred 
upr)n  the  family. 

Among  the  customs  peailiar-  to  Abyssinia  we  select  the  fol- 
lowing. When  a  buildmg  has  been  left  uninhabited,  it  is  usual 
to  kill  a  cow  or  a  sheep,  and  distribute  the  carcass  within  the 
walls;  an  ofl"ei-ing  which  it  is  presumed  satisfies  the  ghost  ot 
the  place,  who  immediately  leaves  it  in  peace.  Ihit  when 
such  houses  are  abandoned  or  neglected,  the  oflTended  demon 
haunts  the  mouldering  remains,  and  kills  those  whom  it  finds 
taking  up  even  a  temporary  residence,'  among  them,  without 
appeasing  its  wrath  by  the  customary  obligation. 

Another  custom  is,  in  courts  of  law,  wiiether  held  by  the 

governor  of  the  province  or  by  a  subordinate  magistrate,  for 
leplaintiir  and  the  defendant  to  stand  up  with  their  dress  tied 


Caffre  Man.         P.  469. 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  469 

I       — ■ — ' « . 

CAFFRARrA. 

round  their  middle,  leaving  the  upper  part  of  the  body  naked; 
a  custom  which  is  observed  even  in  ihe  severest  weather. 
The  turverkas,  or  lawyers,  stand  on  either  side  of  them  plead- 
ing in  a  loud  tone  of  voice  their  several  causes  ;  during  which 
process  wagers  of  mules,  cows,  sheep,  and  gold,  are  contin- 
ually laid  by  these  orators  that  they  will  prove  such  and  such 
charges  contained  in  the  libel ;  and  in  all  cases  the  forfeit  be- 
comes the  perquisite  of  the  presiding  judge.  They  also  bind 
themselves  in  a  similar  way  not  to  speak  until  their  antago- 
nist shall  have  finished  his  address ;  but,  as  it  often  happens, 
the  falsehoods  related  by  the  one  incense  the  other  to  such  a 
degree  that,  although  he  holds  his  mouth  with  his  hands,  he 
forgets  himself  and  exclaims,  "  a  lie  !"  He  is  instantly  ad- 
dressed by  the  governor's  servant,  whose  office  it  is  to  watch 
for  such  slips,  and  is  obliged  either  to  give  bond  for  the  pay- 
ment of  his  bet,  or  to  submit  to  personal  restraint.* 


4.  CAFFRARIA. 

Caffraria,  as  exhibited  in  many  of  our  old  maps,  constitutes 
one  of  the  largest  divisions  of  the  vast  continent  of  Africa, 
being  bounded  on  the  north  by  Nigritia  and  Abyssinia ;  on 
the  west  by  part  of  Guinea  and  Congo  ;  on  the  eastern  side 
by  the  Indian  Ocean;  and  southward  by  the  Cape  of  Good 
Hope.  But  the  part  now  occupied  by  the  numerous  natives 
generally  designated  Caffre  is  much  more  limited,  lying  al- 
together on  the  south  side  of  the  equator,  and  stretching  along 
the  coast  in  a  northeast  direction  from  the  colony  of  the 
Cape. 

Barrow  pronounced  the  Caffres  to  be  ^Hhe  finest  race  of  men 
he  ever  beheld.''''  Ray,  in  his  "Researches,"  speaks  less  highly 
of  their  personal  appearance,  but  admits  that  there  are  "  ma- 
ny remarkably  fine  and  well  made  men  among  them."  Many 
of  them,  this  latter  writer  adds,  are  tall,  robust,  and  very  mus- 
cular: their  habits  of  life  induce  a  firmness  of  carriage,  and 
an  open,  manly  demeanor,  which  is  altogether  free  from  that 
apparent  consciousness  of  fear  and  suspicion  which  gener- 
ally characterizes  uncivilized  nations.  In  stature,  they  vary 
from  five  to  six  feet  ten  inches  ;  and  a  crippled  or  deformed 
person  is  seldom  seen  among  them.  Though  black,  or  nearly 
so,  they  have  not  one  line  of  the  African  negro  in  their  shape 
or  persons.  The  women,  however,  are  not  as  well  formed  as 
the  men.  They  are  mostly  of  low  stature ;  very  strong  limbed : 
and  particularly  muscular  in  the  leg, — more  especially  when 

*  Nubia  and  Abyssinia,  by  Rev.  M.  Russel. 
40 


470  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

CAFf'RARIA. 

advanced  in  years.  They  have  no  traces  whatever  of  the 
thick  lip,  which  forms  such  a  prominent  trait  in  the  features 
of  the  African  negro;  and  as  widely  do  they  differ  both  in 
person  and  character  from  the  Hottentot  race,  in  whose  bor- 
ders they  have  so  lone  been  resident.  They  are  remarkably 
good-humored,  cheerful  and  animated,  excepting  when  cnfee- 
led  by  sickness  or  age.  There  is  a  national  sprigiitliness, 
activity,  and  vivacity  about  them,  which  greatly  distinguishes 
them  from  th<'  women  of  most  nations  that  are  but  little  ad- 
vanced in  civilization,  and  who  are  generally  reserved  in  their 
disposition  towards  strangers. 

Thdr  apparel,  like  that  of  the  ancient  Rritons.  in  the  days  of 
Julius  Ca'sar,  consists  wholly  of  beasts'  skins,  curried  and  pre- 
pared in  such  a  manner,  as  to  render  them  perfectly  sofl  and 
pliable.  The  inner  side  is  then  colored  with  a  kind  of  dark 
ochre,  or  charcoal.  These  leathern  garments,  which  are  gen- 
erally long  enough  to  reach  to  the  feet,  are  merely  suspended 
from  the  shoulders,  like  a  soldier's  cloak,  and  hang  entirely 
loose,  excepting  when  the  cold  renders  it  necessary  to  wrap 
themselves  up  more  closely.  But,  leaving  out  of  the  (juestion 
a  small  and  indecent  covering  that  hides  the  part  whence  the 
foreskin  was  cut  in  circumcision,  a  state  of  nudity  is  that  in 
which  the  men  are  most  frequently  seen;  and  in  which  they 
appear  to  pride  themselves.  Hence  arises  the  liitliy  practice  of 
rubbing  their  bodies,  from  head  to  foot,  with  the  fat  of  animals, 
or  some  other  unctuous  matter,  to  prevent  the  skin  from  being 
parched  by  the  sun's  rays.  The  head  is  (juite  exposed  in  the 
hottest  as  well  as  the  coldest  weather,  unless  sickness  oblige 
themtocover  it.  They  frequently,  indeed,  deprive  themselves 
of  the  slight  covering  with  which  nature  has  furnished  them, 
by  shaving  the  head  aitogrther.  I?ut  this  is  doubtless  done,  in 
most  cases  at  least,  for  the  purpose  of  ridding  themselves  of 
vermin,  which  is  not  a  little  increased  l)y  the  mode  adopted, 
and  the  materials  used,  in  dressing  their  hair.  They  seldom 
put  any  thing  on  the  feet,  except  when  travelling,  and  about 
taking  a  considerable  journey  ;  and  tiii'ii  tlit-y  only  W(<ar  soles, 
or  a  rude  description  of  sandals,  consisting  of  .stiff  pieces  of 
hide  roughly  shaped  to  the  foot,  and  fixed  by  means  of  two 
or  three  short  thongs,  that  pass  over  the  instep. 

The  dress  of  the  u-amfiu  consists  of  the  same  rude  materials 
as  that  f)f  the  men:  it  only  differs  in  shape.  Their  hi^-nho,  or 
upper  garment,  has  a  narrow  louse  flap  appended  to  the  collar 
behind :  this  extends  to  the  bottom  of  the  skirts,  and  some- 
times lower,  forming  a  sort  of  train.  It  is  nsnally  ornamented 
with  three  rows  of  buttons,  placed  in  parallel  lines  from  the 
top  to  the  bottom  of  the  mantle,  each  being  set  as  thickly  as 
po.ssible.  Without  these,  (which  all  are  not  wealthy  enough 
to  procure.)  the  cloak  is  considered  incomplete.  Short  leatli- 
crn  i)ettic(iats,  also,  are  worn;  aufl,  when  engaged  in  any  kind 
of  labor,  such  as  gardening,  &c.,  constitute  their  only  habili- 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  471 

>  I        ' '  ■ _^__— — — — 

COSTUME. 

merits  :  the  ingitbo  is  then  laid  aside,  being  too  cumbersome. 
By  many,  however,  among  the  higher  classes  especially,  noth- 
ing more  than  a  small  apron,  decorated  with  various  colored 
beads,  is  used  under  the  cloak.  This  is  but  three  or  four 
inches  broad,  and  might  seem  to  be  used  more  as  an  orna- 
ment than  as  a  matter  of  decorum.  Excepting  cases  of  age, 
childhood,  and  mothers  who  nurse,  it  is  accounted  exceed- 
ingly unbecoming  for  a  female  to  go  about  with  her  breasts 
uncovered.  Over  these,  therefore,  she  wears  the  imleka, 
which  is  also  ornamented  with  beads.  Great  taste  is  fre- 
quently displayed  in  their  caps,  or  head-dresses,  which  are 
generally  the  most  expensive  part  of  their  costume.  They 
are  made  from  the  skin  of  a  peculiar  species  of  antelope,  indi- 
genous to  the  forests,  and  called  by  the  natives  ipiiti.  This 
being  cut  to  the  shape  required,  a  large  quantity  of  variegated 
beads  are  stitched  on  with  great  regularity;  and  as  white  and 
light  blue  generall)'-  form  the  principal  shades  in  this  Caffre 
turban,  their  contrast  with  the  sable  countenance  of  the  wear- 
er, is  far  from  being  disagreeable.  When  complete,  the  weight 
is  of  course  considerable;  and  the  shape  altogether  too  mas- 
culine to  accord  with  European  ideas  of  female  delicacy.  It  is 
rare,  indeed,  to  see  a  woman  with  any  thing  on  her  feet,  even 
when  travelling  :  she  almost  invariably  goes  barefoot,  under 
all  circumstances,  and  in  all  kinds  of  weather. 

The  chief  women,  even  to  the  queen  herself,  are  not  at  all 
distinguished  by  dress  from  the  most  common  orders  ;  like  all 
the  rest,  they  are  wholly  destitute  of  change  either  for  days  or 
seasons,  each  carries  her  entire  wardrobe  about  her  person 
daily,  and  has  no  other  bedclothes  at  night.  Their  leathern 
mantles  are  usually  renewed  once  a  year;  and  choice  cattle 
are  then  slaughtered  for  this  purpose  expressly.  Black  cows 
or  oxen  are  generally  selected,  a  decided  preference  being 
given  to  that  "color.  The  only  visible  difference  between  the 
most  exalted  and  poorest  females  of  the  land,  consists  in  the 
quantity  of  ornaments  they  possess.  Of  these,  bracelets, 
necklaces,  and  ear-drops,  form  the  principal.  Some  have  as 
many  as  fifty,  and  others  more  than  three  times  that  number  of 
bead-strings  around  the  neck ;  on  the  arms  are  rings  of  copper 
or  iron ;  and  when  beads  were  less  plentiful  in  the  country, 
festoons  of  small  cyprcBa  shell  were  appended  to  their  caps, 
and  sometimes  worn  as  necklaces.  Suspended  from  the 
neck,  or  from  some  part  of  the  cloak,  many  earry  the  shell  of 
a  small  land-torti)ise,  containing  a  quantity  of  red  pulverized 
ochre,  together  with  a  thin  piece  of  leather,  which,  with  this 
Caffre  rouge,  is  occasionally  rubbed  upon  the  cheeks.  A 
button,  shell,  or  small  string  of  beads,  usually  serves  as  a 
succedaneum  for  ear-rings. 

The  men's  ornaments  are  much  the  same  as  those  of  the 
women.  Their  arms,  above  the  elbows,  are  often  adorned 
with  broad  ivory  rings,  cut  out  of  the  solid  part  of  an  elephant's 
tuskj  well  poUshed.    From  the  wrist  upwards  there  are  fre- 


472  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

CAFFRAnrA. 

quently  as  many  as  tliirty  bracelets,  made  of  iron  or  brass; 
and  metal  rinses  are  also  worn  on  the  leers,  just  above  the 
ankles.  In  addition  to  trreat  quantities  of  beads,  various  other 
things  are  suspended  from  the  neck,  such  as  small  pieces  of 
cedar  wood,  the  bones  and  teeth  of  certain  animals,  &c.  These, 
liowever,  are  regarded  as  a  kind  of  charn)  rather  than  orna- 
ments. Round  the  heads  of  the  chiefs  are  sometimes  seen 
narrow  straps,  thickly  studded  vuith  different  colored  beads 
sin.trulariy  and  tastefully  arranged  ;  and  on  iroing  to  war,  the 
complete  wings  of  the  blue  crane,  fastened  on  each  side  of  the 
head,  constitute  their  national  plumes.  Many  decorate  their 
legs  with  the  hairy  extremity  of  a  favorite  cow's  tail,  or  with 
that  of  some  wild  beast  that  has  fallen  under  their  spear  in  the 
chase.  This  is  attached  to  the  kn(>e,  and  hanp;s  down  the 
shin.  The  ears  of  all,  with  comparatively  few  exceptions, 
are  bored  ;  and  among  some  of  the  tribes  this  jiractice  is  car- 
ried to  an  extravagant  extent,  distending  the  lobes  to  the  very 
uttermost,  and  leaving  holes  of  enormous  size. 

Their  manner  of  life  is  truly  patriarchal,  and  general  diet 
extremely  simple.  This  ordinarily  consists  of  milk,  which, 
like  the  Arabs,  and  Foulah  nation  of  Western  Africa,  they  in- 
variably use  in  a  sour  curdled  state.  It  is  called  amaaz,  and 
rendered  thus  thick  and  acidulous  by  being  kept  in  leathern 
sacks  or  bottles,  the  appearance  of  which  is  filthy  in  the  ex- 
treme, and,  to  the  eye  of  a  stranger,  exceedingly  disgusting. 
These  vessels  are  replenished  with  frr.>h  milk  from  the  cow, 
morning  and  evening;  this  is  generally  found  in  an  nour  or 
two  before  they  draw  off  that  designed  for  family  use.  It  is 
sometimes  kept  in  calabashes  (gourd  shells  ;)  but  in  these  it  of- 
ten contracts  a  peculiar  and  disagreeable  taste.  New  milk  is 
seldom  used,  excepting  bj-  children  ;  nor  does  it  ever  undergo 
any  other  preparation  than  that  already  mentioned.  This 
forms  the  CafTre's  standing  dish  ;  and  n«'Xt  to  this,  a  bowl  of 
boiled  corn.  The  grain  most  commonly  cultivated  by  the 
tribes  of  Southern  Africa  is  a  s]xxies  of  millet  or  guinea  corn, 
called  aniazinihd  by  the  Caffre,  and  inabali  by  the  Boochuana. 
It  is  used  in  diflerent  ways  ;  but  nu)st  commonly  in  a  boiled 
state.  When  thus  i)n'part'd,  it  is  served  u))  in  small  baskets, 
out  of  which  each  helps  himsellj  making  liis  hands  st-rve  as  a 
succedaneum  for  spoons.  Seasoning  of  any  kind  is  seldom 
used:  excepting  when  mixed  with  a  little  milk,  the  bare  grain 
constitutes  the  sole  ingredient  of  the  mess.  It  is  sometimes 
poundfd  bftwcen  two  stones  with  the  hand,  (corn-mills  being 
altf)gether  unknown  in  (.'affraria,)  ami  made  into  a  kind  of 
pottage  ;  anfi  at  other  times  formed  into  thick  cakes,  which  are 
always  on  the  he.irth,  amid  hot  embers,  after  the  manner  of  the 
ancients.  Indian  corn  also  is  cultivated,  but  not  so  extensive 
ly  ;  pumpkms,  likewise*,  together  with  a  few  other  esculent 
plants.  But  (»f  the  latter  they  seldom  lay  up  any  store  ;  con- 
sequently they  are  only  useful  while  the  season  lasts  ;  and  this 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  473 

DIET HUTS. 

is  in  a  great  measure  the  case  with  maize  also ;  for  while  it 
continues  in  season  both  young  and  old  are  seen  parching  and 
eating  it  at  all  hours  of  the  day.  A  species  of  sugar  cane  call- 
ed infe,  is  grown  in  great  abundance ;  of  this  the  natives  arc 
remarkably  fond,  on  account  of  its  sweet  and  succulent  quali- 
ty, A  decoction  of  it,  as  likewise  of  the  Indian  cornstalk,  is 
sometimes  made  for  the  purpose  of  sweetening  their  mess  of 
millet.  Add  to  the  above  an  occasional  feast  of  animal  food, 
and  we  liave  the  diet  complete  of  a  strong  and  able-bodied 
people.  They  seldom  sit  down  to  more  than  one  good  meal  a 
day ;  and  that  is  in  the  evening,  about  an  hour  before  bed- 
time :  an  occasional  draught  of  milk  is  generally  all  they  take 
besides.  Few  indeed  are  the  wants  of  nature,  while  the  appe- 
tite remains  uninthralled  by  the  vitiating  influence  of  luxury. 
The  spontaneous  productions  of  the  vegetable  kingdom  con- 
stitute their  chief  dependence  as  it  regards  subsistence,  in  all 
cases  of  emergency. 

The  Caffre  inhlu,  house,  or  hut^  is  of  the  most  simple  de- 
scription, and  far  inferior  in  every  respect  to  that  of  the  Boo- 
chuana.  The  slight  and  fragile  materials  of  which  it  is  com- 
posed render  the  building  but  a  temporary  one  at  best.  A 
circular  frame  is  first  set  up,  consisting  of  long  straight 
branches,  the  upper  extremities  of  which  are  bent  and  bound 
together  with  umxeba,  or  wooden  fibres.  The  thatch  which 
is  on  the  houses  of  the  South  Sea  islands,  extending  from  the 
ground  to  the  top,  is  then  bound  on  with  the  same  sort  of  cord- 
age, or  otherwise  with  intsnntelo,  a  small  rope  made  of  rushes, 
after  which  the  inside  is  lined  with  utijabeka,  a  strong  plaster 
of  clav  and  cowdun^.  When  complete,  the  form  is  exactly 
that  of  a  beehive ;  and  the  doorway  is  shaped  in  the  same 
manner  as  the  entra  of  those  little  insect  dwellings.  There 
being  neither  window  nor  chimney,  tliis  aperture  necessarily 
serves  for  tlie  ingress  of  light,  as  well  as  for  the  egress  of 
smoke.  The  diameter  of  the  room  varies  from  six  to  twelve,  or 
fifteen  feet ;  its  floor  is  slightly  elevated,  and  an  umseli,  gutter 
or  drain,  is  generally  made  around  the  foundation  to  carry 
off'tlie  water  in  rainy  weather.  Excepting  a  few  thorn  branch- 
es, which  are  sometimes  thrown  carelessly  around  the  hut, 
to  prevent  the  cattle  tearing  off"  its  grassy  roofj  it  seldom  has 
the  benefit  of  fence  of  any  description  whatever.  Between  the 
houses  of  tl)e  nobles  and  those  of  the  most  indigent,  there  is 
no  material  difference,  excepting  that  the  former  class  are 
perhaps  a  little  neater  at  first,  but  not  at  all  more  substantial, 
nor  yet  more  convenient.  The  chiefs  have  indeed  more  huts 
at  their  command  than  the  common  people,  owing  to  their 
having  a  greater  number  of  wives,  each  of  whom  is  required 
to  make  her  own.  From  this  work  the  king's  wife  herself  is 
not  exempt ;  she  may  have,  indeed  she  generally  has,  more 
assistance  than  the  wife  of  a  plebeian,  having  more  servants  at 
her  beck ;  but  she  alone  stands  responsible  for  the  completion 
40* 


474  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

CAFFRAR!A. 

of  tlie  work.  As  fragile  habitations  require  but  comparatively 
little  labor  and  less  cost,  their  destruction,  or  the  necessity  of 
leaving  them,  is  seldom  the  cause  of  mucn  uneasiness  to  the 
occupants,  to  whose  pastf)ral  and  migratory  habits  this  unsub- 
stantial mode  of  building,  in  all  iiroi)ability,  owes  its  origin. 
Being  utter  strangles  to  the  comforts  and  conveniences  of 
civilized  life,  they  of  course  see  no  necessity  for  a  larger  and 
more  commodious  kind  of  dwelling.  The  climate  is  so  fine 
and  warm  in  gtMieral  that  the  day  is  usually  sjient  in  the  open 
air;  it  is  only  the  nightshade,  bad  weather,  or  sickness  that 
will  induce  them  to  remain  much  within  doors;  and  when  the 
latter  of  these  causes  oj)erates  as  the  occasion  of  their  con- 
finement, the  scene  is  melancholy  indeed  ! 

A  Caflfre  runze,  village,  commonly  called  "kraal,"  consists 
simply  of  six,  ten,  or  a  dozen  of  these  huts,  and  a  cattle-fold 
or  two.  The  latter  usually  constitute  by  far  the  most  promi- 
nent objects  in  the  view;  whatever  maybe  the  state  of  the 
houses,  the  folds  have  at  all  times  paramount  claims  upon  the 
attention  of  the  owners,  and  are  almost  always  kept  in  much 
better  repair.  The  question,  whether  or  not  a  proposed  spot 
is  suitable  for  the  rchuklanli,  often  determines  the  site  of  a 
village;  which,  on  this  account,  is  invariably  l)uilt  so  as  to  en- 
sure the  sun's  genial  influence  at  an  early  hour  in  the  morn- 
ing. These  enclt)sures  are  generally  erected  in  the  midst  of  the 
houses,  under  the  owner's  eye,  and  within  reach  of  instant 
protection,  in  all  cases  of  emergency.  Gardens  of  corn-lands 
are  scarcely  ever  attached  to  their  hamlets  with  the  view  of 
enriching  the  prospect,  profit  alone  being  the  incentive  by 
which  the  native  horticulturist  is  actuated.  No  llov.er-beds, 
therefore,  are  to  be  found  in  a  Ca fire  garden;  the  rose  and 
the  violet,  &c.,  never  yet  occupied  a  place  there;  nor  do  they 
ever  seem  to  have  thought  of  planting  tret*s  of  any  descrip- 
tion whatev(>r.  So  entirely  devoid  are  they  of  that  tastf  which 
induces  an  admiration  of  natural  scenery,  fliat  they  unhesi- 
tatingly cut  down  the  finest  trees  for  the  most  trilling  purposes. 
The  rural  and  the  romantic  are  alike  destitute  of  charms  in 
the  eye  of  a  Cafi're,  when  selecting  his  dwelling-place;  hence 
the  traveller  need  not  he  surprised  to  hud  even  chiefs,  who 
have  the  land  before  them,  burying  themselves  in  barren  nooks, 
where  they  cannot  see  to  the  distance  of  half  a  mile  in  any 
direction. 

In  some  things  the  Amaxos,  a  tribe  of  CafTres,  are  extreme- 
ly particular;  but  in  others  their  habits  are  disgusting  beyond 
measure.  When  sitting  down  to  meat,  for  instance,  if  the 
hands  are  considered  unclean,  a  cpiantity  of  fresh  cowdung  is 
invariably  used  as  the  substitute  li>r  soap  and  w.iter.  When 
cngatred  in  the  act  of  slaughtering,  the  beast  is  no  sooner  open- 
ed than  a  scramble  takes  place  for  the  gall,  the  bitter  contents  of 
which  are  eagerly  drunk  by  the  individual  who  first  gets  hold  of 
it    Nor  is  this  uU  tliat  is  calculated  to  sicken  one  on  such  occa- 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  475 


SOUTHERN  AFRICA. 


sions.  When  cut  up,  pieces  of  the  meat  are  purposely  rolled 
on  the  floor  of  the  cattle-fold,  previously  to  being  used;  and 
certain  parts  even  of  the  entrails  are  but  just  thrown  on  the 
fire  before  the  savage  butchers  voraciously  devour  them  while 
literally  covered  with  filth.  The  small  baskets  in  which  their 
food  is  usually  served  up,  are  made  from  a  species  ofcyperus, 
a  strong,  reedy  grass  that  is  frequently  found  growing  about 
fountains.  They  are  oT  a  circular  shape,  neatly  wrought ;  and 
the  texture  is  so  close  as  to  render  them  capable  of  contain- 
ing any  kind  of  liquid.  One  traveller  tells  us  that  it  is  into 
these  vessels  that  milk  is  thrown  for  the  purpose  of  coagula- 
tion ;  while  another,  Vaillant,  with  still  less  accuracy,  asserts 
that  they  wash  them  with  urine,  to  make  the  milk  coagulate 
more  speedily.  But  although  neither  one  nor  the  other  of 
these  gentlemen  is  correct,  the  state  in  which  these  bowls  are 
kept  is  indescribably  dirty.'  Whenever  emptied  of  their  con- 
tents, they  are  immediately  placed  on  the  ground  for  the  dogs 
to  lick  ;  and  this  constitutes  almost  the  only  purification  they 
ever  obtain.* 


5.  SOUTHERN  AFRICA. 

Southern  Africa  comprehends  Cape  Colony,  or  the  Dutch 
settlements  near  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  and  the  regions 
north,  occupied  by  varioiis  tribes  of  Hottentots. 

The  Cape  was  originally  discovered  by  the  Portuguese,  and. 
afterward's  colonized  by  the  Dutch.  Cape  Toxcn^  the  capital, 
was  founded  in  1G52,  and  is  built  with  great  regularity  and  a 
considerable  degree  of  elegance.  The  streets,  which  are  wide, 
intersect  each  other  at  right  angles.  The  houses  probably  ex- 
ceed 2000  in  number,  and  for  the  most  part  are  of  stone,  ce- 
mented with  a  glutinous  kind  of  earth,  and  are  generally  white- 
washed on  the  outside.  Their  height  is  seldom  more  than 
two  floors,  frequent  storms  rendering  a  greater  elevation  dan- 
gerous. The  population  of  Cape  Town  is  now  probably  more 
than  20,000.  The' population  of  thirteen  divisions  of  the  east 
and  west  provinces  into  which  the  colony  is  divided,  was,  in 
18i;7,  about  120.000.  Although  the  colony  has  passed  into  the 
possession  of  Great  Britain,  a  great  proportion  of  the  inhabit- 
ants are  descendants  of  the  first  settlers. 

Notwithstanding  their  European  descent,  these  people,  usu- 
ally denominated  boors,  or  farmers,  are  destitute  of  even  the 
rudiments  of  a  good  education,  and  their  notions  of  religion 
and  morals  are  extremely  relaxed.  Smoking  and  sleep  occu- 
py a  great  part  of  their  time;  and  indolence  has  become  so 
habitual  to  them,  as  to  prove  too  powerful  even  for  their  na- 

•  Kay's  Caffraria. 


476  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 


SOUTHERN  AKHRA. 


tional  characteristic  of  self-interest.  They  have  oxen  in  abun- 
dance, but  seldom  use  any  for  food.  Their  lands  overflow 
with  milk  and  butter,  which  they  scarcely  ever  taste.  Wine 
is  produced  by  many,  and  easily  produced  by  all;  yet  this 
they  rarely  drink.  Mutton,  bad  bread,  and  vegetables  stewed 
in  sheep's  fat,  constitute  their  fare.  Every  thin^  about  them 
manifests  the  utmost  wretchedness,  where  comfort  might  bo 
easily  enjoyed,  had  they  but  industry  to  make  themselves 
happy. 

This  indolence  is  occasioned  by  the  facility  with  which  Hot- 
tentot slaves  are  obtained  ;  and  a  boor  has  generally  twenty 
or  thirty  of  these  |)Oor  creatures  running  about  him,  though 
he  has  not  emplf»yment  for  more  than  f<nn-  or  five,  except  in 
harvest  time.  The  conse(]uence  is,  that  his  sons  and  daughters 
have  no  occasion  to  put  their  hands  to  any  work  ;  and  being 
destitnt-e  of  intellectual  attainments,  they  loung(>  about,  or 
sleep,  during  the  greater  part  of  the  day.  Thus  their  years 
roll  on  in  miserable  listlessness. 

The  boors  treat  their  Hottentots  with  great  severity ;  and 
there  is  scarcely  an  act  of  cruelty  in  the  history  of  West  India 
slavery,  that  has  not  its  parallel  in  their  conduct,  ('utting 
with  the  r/iambns,  a  kind  of  whip  made  from  the  hide  of  the 
rhinoceros,  which  is  pliable,  and  almost  as  heavy  as  lead,  is 
considered  a  slight  chastisement;  tiring  small  shf)t  into  their 
legs  has  bei'U  used  as  a  punishment  for  trilling  (jlfcnces;  and 
life  itself  has  not  unfrequently  been  sacrificed  by  these  brutal 
masters.  Such  is  the  general  character  of  the  i)utch  boors; 
happily,  it  does  not  api)ly  to  every  individual;  some  few  are 
to  be  nn-t  with,  in  whoni  a  spirit  of  industry  and  economy  are 
combined  with  unbounded  hospitality,  a  firm  adherence  to 
truth,  and  a  great  respect  for  religion. 

The  Hottentots  consist  of  several  tribes,  as  the  Colonial  flot- 
tenlnts^  or  such  as  live  within  the  colony  of  the  Cape  of  Good 
Hope;  the  fio.ytsnuniH  or  llihl  //(illriifol.s,  who  occupy  part  of 
the  mountains  on  the  north  of  the  colony  ;  the  Coiraniuis  or 
Corn/iin.  who  ilwell  north  of  tin-  I^osjcsinatis  ;  and  the  \aina- 
(juas,  wiio  dwell  partly  in  the  nortliwi'.st  district  of  the  colony, 
and  sjtread  beyond  it. 

The  Cithniitil  Ilaltfiilotn.  or  QiuiiiTvti,  as  they  call  themselves, 
are  (h'scendants  of  the  aborigines  of  the  country.  In  their 
persons,  these  Hottentots  are  tolerably  wv.W  projKirtioned,  and 
erect.  Their  heads,  feet,  and  joints  are  small,  and  their  bo- 
dies art?  delicately  formed;  but  their  general  appearance  is 
feminine.  Their  countenance,  however,  is  any  thing  but  hand- 
some ;  llie  head  very  Hat;  cliei  k-bones  proniin<'nt  and  high; 
chin  pointed  ;  eyes  of  a  deep  chestnut  color,  long,  narrow,  and 
di.stant  from  each  other;  eyelids  rounded  like  those  of  the 
Chini's(»;  and  the  comi)Iexion,  where  not  ct)ncealed  by  a  thick 
coat  of  grease  and  dirt,  of  a  yellowish  brown,  r<'scmbling  that 
of  u  European  in  one  of  the  last  stages  of  jaundice:  such  are 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  477 

COSTUME. 


the  characteristics  of  the  genuine  Hottentot.  The  hair,  which 
is  black,  and  frizzled  like  a  Negro's,  grows  in  small  tufts,  and 
is  either  cut  short,  so  as  to  have  the  appearance  of  a  bruslr, 
or  hangs  in  twisted  tassels,  like  a  fringe.  Of  the  women,  suf- 
fice it  to  say,  that  they  are,  unexceptionally,  the  most  ill-form- 
ed and  ill-proportioned  of  the  human  race. 

The  dress  of  these  people  consists  chiefly  of  a  thick  coat  of 
fat,  mixed  with  a  little  soot,  and  smeared  all  over  the  body ; 
this  is  never  wiped  off,  but  continually  augmented  by  dust  and 
filth.  A  thong  of  skin  about  the  waist,  from  which  is  suspend- 
ed a  piece  of  jackal's  skin  behind,  reaching  to  about  the  mid- 
dle of  the  thigh,  constitutes  the  whole  of  the  male  attire.  The 
females  wear  the  same,  and  have,  in  addition,  a  small  apron, 
a  few  inches  in  breadth,  scarcely  reaching  to  the  knee  in  front, 
and  behind,  a  piece  of  dried  sheep's  skin,  hanging  down  to  the 
middle  of  the  leg.  They  are  very  fond  of  glass  beads,  and 
other  showy  ornaments,  with  which,  and  rings  of  leather,  iron, 
copper,  or  brass,  they  load  their  necks,  and  arms,  and  legs  ; 
and  they  decorate  their  little  aprons  with  beads,  shell,  and 
other  articles,  that  make  both  show  and  noise.  Brass  buttons 
and  plates,  which  they  fix  in  their  hair,  with  small  pieces  of 
looking-glass,  are  as  highly  esteemed  among  the  Hottentots 
as  diamonds  by  Europeans. 

Indolence  has  been  tlie  bane  of  these  people,  while  sensual- 
ity and  filth,  its  usual  concomitants,  are  evils  that  have  been 
strengthened  by  the  contempt  and  oppression  of  the  Dutch 
settlers.  They  have  not,  indeed,  the  same  inducement  to  la- 
bor as  more  civilized  tribes.  If  a  Hottentot  can  obtain  barely 
enough  to  support  nature,  he  is  satisfied;  and  wrapped  in  his 
sheep's  skin,  can  sleep  contentedly  under  any  bush.  They 
would  rather  fast  and  sleep  the  whole  day,  than  hunt,  or  per- 
form any  kind  of  labor,  to  procure  food  ;  although,  when  they 
do  obtain  it,  they  are  extremely  voracious.  When  they  get 
possession  of  any  animal,  they  take  off  a  large  slice  of  flesh, 
and  after  cutting  it  into  a  long  spiral  string,  lay  it  on  the  fire ; 
but  their  impatience  seldom  lets  it  be  more  than  warm,  when 
they  seize  it  with  both  hands,  and  applying  one  end  to  the 
mouth,  soon  arrive  at  the  other :  thus  they  proceed  till  the 
whole  animal  is  consumed. 

Notwithstanding  this  savage  mode  of  living,  the  Hottentots 
are  kind  and  affectionate  towards  each  other;  and  ready  to 
share  their  last  morsel  with  their  companions.  They  are 
harmless,  honest,  faithful;  but  extremely  phlegmatic ;  hence 
they  never  give  themselves  up  to  that  lively  joy  and  unrestrain- 
ed pleasure,  which  are  observable  among  all  other  black  or 
tawny  nations.  They  have  little  of  the  art  and  cunning  that  sav- 
ages generally  possess :  if  accused  of  crimes,  of  which  they 
know  themselves  guilty,  they  generally  divulge  the  truth  ;  and 
they  rarely  quarrel  among  themselves,  or  use  provoking  lan- 
guage. Though  naturally  of  a  quiet  and  timid  disposition, 
they  will  run  irxto  the  face  of  danger,  if  led  on  by  their  supe- 


478 UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

SOUTHERN  AFHICA. 

riors  ;  aiul  endure  jiain  with  fjreat  fortitude.  Whoever  travels 
among  them,  may  be  sure  of  finding'  food  and  lodging,  such 
as  they  have  to  bestow;  and  thouirh  they  will  receive  presents, 
they  ask  for  nothing.  Of  their  willintiness  to  receive  instruc- 
tion, and  their  aptitude  to  learn,  ample  testimony  is  given  by 
the  Christian  missionaries,  who,  since  the  commencement  of 
the  present  century,  have  been  settled  among  them  by  British 
benevolence;  and  whose  labors  have  met  with  most  promising 
results. 

The  Bosjesman8,oT  JJushmen,  are  amongthe  lowest  ranks  of 
human  beings;  their  rugged  haunts,  and  their  valor,  have 

K reserved  their  independence,  and  the  most  confirmed  liatred 
as  long  subsisted  between  them  and  the  colonists,  uj^on 
whom  they  often  make  inroads,  carry  off  their  sheep  and  cat- 
tle, and  kill  the  boors,  who  go  out  for  the  express  purpose,  as 
the  English  gentry  go  out  to  shoot  wild  fowls  or  hares. 

The  name  of  these  people  has  been  derived  from  two 
sources;  first,  their  practice  of  attacking  their  enemic^s  and  their 
prey  from  behind  a  bush;  secondly,  from  their  habit  of  nestling 
in  bushes.  The  stature  of  the  Bo.sjesmans  is  considerably 
below  that  of  the  other  Hottentots,  few  attaining  four  feet  and 
six  inches.  Their  physiognomy  has  the  same  characteristic 
features  with  the  colonial  tribe  ;  but  their  eyes  are  vastly 
more  wild  and  animated,  and  their  wliolc  ccmntenance  is  more 
exjiressive,  exhibiting  strong  sym))toms  of  suspicion  and  ap- 
prehension. They  are  in  general  so  miserably  lean,  that 
their  skin  hangs  in  folds;  and  their  women  are,  if  possible,  more 
ugly  than  those  of  the  colony.  Sloth  seems  to  be  inherent  in 
these  people;  but  if  once  this  projjensity  be  so  far  subdued 
that  they  commence  an  undertaking,  they  pursue  it  with  bold- 
ness, with  cunning,  and  with  pertinacity,  till  it  is  accom- 
plished. They  are  great  cowards,  and  never  stop  to  meet  an 
adversary  in  the  open  field;  a  single  musket  shot  will  put  a 
hundred  of  them  to  flight;  and  whoever  rushes  upon  them 
with  a  good  stick  in  his  hand,  has  no  reason  to  fear  any  re- 
sistance from  ever  so  large  a  number.  To  aim  their  poisoned 
arrf)ws  at  an  unarmed  person  from  some  secure  hiding  place 
is  thef)nly  mode  of  making  war.  Among  themselves,  strength 
alone  is  the  arbiter  of  their  diirerences  ;  and  even  the  family 
compact  is  not  binding.  The  stronger  sometimes  takes  both 
t)ie  wife  and  the  weapons  of  th<?  weaker,  who  is  tht>n  left  with- 
out reflress.  Th(;  sight  of  the  Bosjesmaiis  is  very  t|uiek, 
from  constant  exercise  in  discovering  the  objects  of  food  at  a 
distance  ;  but  their  taste,  smell,  and  feeling,  are  highly  de- 
fective;  no  disgust  is  evinced  by  them  at  the  most  nauseous 
kinds  of  food  ;  and  they  app(\ir  to  be  little  sensible  of  the 
changes  of  teni|)erature.  With  their  rnvenomed  arrows,  they 
can  strike,  with  threat  precision,  those  wild  beasts  whose 
strength  and  swiftness  would  otherwise  be  an  overmatch  for 
them.     The  effect  of  the  poison  is  so  rapid,  that  they  are  siu-e 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  479 


THE  BOSJESMANS — CORANNAS. 


to  find  the  animal  dead,  or  dying,  within  a  quarter  of  an  hour 
after  it  has  been  touched.  To  cut  out  the  poisoned  part,  and 
to  begin  to  devour  the  prey,  are  acts  which  follow  each  other 
with  the  utmost  rapidity ;  nor  is  the  spot  quitted  until  the  last 
bone  is  picked. 

The  Bosjesman  has  no  settled  habitation;  his  whole  life  is 
spent  in  wandering  from  place  to  place,  rarely  passing  two 
successive  nights  on  the  same  spot.  He  is  fond  of  taking  up 
his  abode  in  caverns  among  the  mountains,  or  in  clefts  of  the 
rocks  ;  if  in  the  plain,  he  gets  into  the  middle  of  a  bush,  and 
bending  the  boughs  around  him,  makes  them  serve  as  a  de- 
fence against  enemies  or  wild  beasts,  or  he  digs  a  hole  in  the 
ground,  a  few  inches  deep,  and  of  an  oval  shape,  and,  wi  apped 
in  a  sheep's  skin,  buries  himself  within  it.  In  the  hot  season 
of  the  year,  he  stretches  himself  in  the  bed  of  a  river,  under 
the  shade  of  the  mimosas,  the  branches  of  which  he  draws 
around  him  as  a  screen  from  the  sun  and  wind. 

As  these  people  live  by  destruction,  all  their  ingenuity  is 
employed  in  preparing  weapons  by  which  it  may  be  effected. 
Their  bows  and  arrows,  and  the  poison  by  which  the  latter 
are  armed,  display  considerable  art.  Their  whole  stock  of 
other  utensils  consists  only  of  a  few  tortoise  shells,  ostrich 
eggs,  and  gourds.  They  usually  eat  their  flesh  raw ;  or,  if 
they  cook  it,  they  only  warm  it,  and  apply  their  teeth  to  it  the 
moment  it  is  taken  off"  the  embers.  Their  beverage  is  water, 
which  they  always  drink  from  the  running  stream.  They 
are,  however,  not  much  accustomed  to  drink,  and  will  remain 
whole  days  without  any  liquid  passing  their  lips;  as  a  substi- 
tute, they  chew  the  few  succulent  plants  with  which  their  bar- 
ren soil  supplies  them ;  and  their  food  is  eaten  without  salt. 
Although  the  Bosjesmans  are  so  extremely  voracious  that 
half  a  dozen  of  them  will  devour  a  fat  sheep  in  an  hour,  they 
can  endure  surprising  fasts,  of  several  days'  continuance. 
Mere  sloth  is  sometimes  the  motive  of  this  abstinence,  and 
they  would  rather  resist  the  cravings  of  the  stomach,  and  en- 
deavor to  sleep  them  away,  than  make  any  bodily  exertions 
to  satisfy  them. 

Several  attempts  to  civilize  these  people  have  been  made  by 
the  missionaries,  but  hitherto  without  success. 

The  Corannas,  or  Corans,  who  dwell  north  of  the  Bosjes- 
mans, and  are  perpetually  at  war  with  them,  are  represented 
as  a  mild  and  well-disposed  race,  descended  from  the  oldest 
inhabitants  of  this  part  of  Africa.  They  live  in  small  vil- 
lages, called  kraals,  composed  of  huts  of  hemispherical  form. 
They  much  resemble  the  Colonial  Hottentots,  but  their  cheek- 
bones are  less  prominent,  and  their  faces  more  oval.  They 
are  also  more  voluptuous,  deficient  in  bodily  strength,  given 
to  idleness,  little  interested  for  others,  and  not  renowned  for 
martial  courage.  Their  clothing  consists  of  a  mantle  of  pre- 
pared skin,  either  bullock's  or  antelope's,  and  it  often  has 


480  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

SOUTHERN    AFRICA. 

figures  of  various  kinds  scraped  upon  tlie  liairy  side.  They 
decorate  their  ears,  necks,  and  arms,  witli  ornaments,  which 
they  purchase  from  the  neighboring  tribe  of  }'.eetjuans. 
They  are  much  celebrated  for  training  oxen,  both  for  riding 
and  draught;  aud  the  Bcetjuans  purchase  the  former  of  them. 
These  animals  trot  or  gallop  excellently  well,  and  clear  a 
space  of  ground,  without  uiging,  in  a  short  time.  On  dis- 
mounting, the  rider  always  has  the  animal  led  about  for  a  few 
minutes,  that  he  may  cool  gradually.  The  bridle  is  fastened 
to  a  piece  of  wood,  passed  through  the  cartilage  of  the  nose, 
and  a  sheep's  or  goat's  skin  serves  for  a  saddle.  The  Coran- 
nas  apply  themselves  but  little  to  agriculture.  Some  skins 
and  mats,  on  which  they  sleep,  leathern  knapsacks,  and  ves- 
sels resembling  cans,  cut  out  of  a  solid  piece  of  wood,  with 
calabashes  and  bamboo  canes,  compose  the  whole  of  their 
furniture.  Most  of  them  carry  a  Beetjuan  knife  in  a  case 
slung  round  their  necks,  with  a  small  leathern  bag,  or  the  shell 
of  a  tortoise,  for  a  pipe,  tobacco,  and  flint.  Of  tobacco  and 
ardent  spirits  they  ar<'  extremely  fond,  and  may  be  won  to 
any  purpose  by  them.  They  also  find  great  pleasure  in  dan- 
cing. They  often  shift  their  residence,  always  carrying  with 
them  the  sticks  and  mats  of  which  their  cabins  are  built. 
These,  with  tlieir  few  household  goods,  btMng  i-xpeditiously 
packed  in  a  small  compass  on  the  backs  of  their  oxen,  a 
whole  village  is  struck  and  in  march  in  a  few  minutes.  The 
richest  man  in  the  kraal  is  leader  of  the  party,  and  spokesman 
on  all  occasions,  Init  he  possesses  no  judicial  right  over  the 
rest.  The  efforts  of  the  missionaries  have  been  equally  un- 
availing here,  as  among  the  Bosjesmans. 

The  Namaquas  inhabit  both  banks  of  the  Orange  River, 
near  its  junction  with  the  sea,  and  are  pertinacious  adherents 
to  the  customs  of  their  forefathers.  They  differ  little  from 
other  Hottentot.s,  except  that  they  are  generally  taller  and 
more  active,  as  well  as  more  advanced  in  the  arts  of  life,  such 
as  the  construction  of  huts,  the  rearing  of  cattle,  and  other 
simple  labors.  Some  of  the  females,  while  young,  have  ele- 
gant figures,  but  an  old  N.imaqua  woman  is  altogeth«^r  dis- 
gusting, (y'attle  are  their  chief  wealth  ;  and  in  tln^  wars  and 
dissensions, Which  are  frequent  among  them,  the  great  ob- 
ject is  to  seize  each  other's  herds.  Hunting  is  jiursued  in  the 
usual  African  method:  the  whole  kraal  turn.s  out,  and  having 
surrounded  the  game,  they  contract  the  circle,  till  they  bring 
all  within  a  small  space,  and  can  kill  them  with  their  spears. 
The  houses  of  the  Namaquas  are  hemispheres,  about  ten  or 
twelve  feet  in  diameter.  cf)mposed  of  a  frame-work  of  sticks, 
and  covered  with  sedge  matting.  The  latter  is  manufactured 
by  the  women,  who  also  build  the  houses,  milk  the  cows,  and 
digup  wild  roots  for  food.  Theirprincipal  drink  is  milk,  and  the 
only  fermented  liquor  they  have,  is  made  from  honey.  When 
a  man  wishes  to  marry,  he  purchases  his  brideof  her  parents, 


,^% 

*Sc 

fl^ 

tesr" 

^ 

?^^ 

^^ 

•^->.i-«" 


Co/fre  iroman.  7'.  471. 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  481 


CENTRAL  AFRICA. 


for  cattle,  and  some  are  also  slaughtered  for  a  feast.  When 
a  youth  has  grown  up  to  manhood,  his  neck  and  head  are  en- 
veloped with  the  fat  of  an  animal  slaughtered  for  the  occa- 
sion, which  he  must  wear  till  it  gradually  drops  off.  Several 
incisions  are  also  made  on  his  breast  with  a  sharp  instru- 
ment ;  and  a  feast  of  milk  concludes  this  first  day's  ceremo- 
ny. The  young  man  continues  eight  days  under  the  shed  in 
which  this  initiation  has  been  performed,  taking  nothing  but 
milk  for  his  sustenance ;  a  dance  then  takes  place,  and  the 
entrails  of  the  animal  slain  at  the  commencement  of  the  cere- 
mony, having  been  dried  and  reduced  to  powder,  are  mixed 
with  water,  and  he  is  rubbed  all  over  with  them,  and  declared 
to  be  a  man,  in  the  presence  of  the  whole  kraal.  All  who  do 
not  submit  to  this  rite  are  despised,  and  allowed  to  eat  only 
with  women.  When  a  man  first  kills  an  elephant,  a  sea-cow, 
or  a  rhinoceros,  he  receives  peculiar  honors;  and  rings, 
made  of  the  animal's  entrails,  are  put  upon  his  arms,  and 
constantly  worn  afterwards.  A  strong  affection  appears  to 
exist  here  between  parents  and  their  children.  Old  age  is 
common  among  them.  When  a  father  dies,  his  eldest  son  in- 
herits the  whole  property  ;  if  the  other  sons  get  any  thing,  it 
is  only  by  fighting  for  it;  and  in  all  cases  the  widow  is  left 
destitute  of  any  share.  Something  like  witchcraft  is  in  use 
among  these  people ;  they  practice  many  superstitions  over 
their  sick,  and  bury  their  dead  in  round  holes. 

Within  the  last  twelve  or  fourteen  years,  some  missionary 
stations  have  been  established  among  these  people,  with  more 
success  than  could  have  been  expected.  At  most  of  these 
places,  the  population  has  become  stationary,  the  ground  is 
cultivated,  substantial  houses,  as  well  as  places  of  worship, 
have  been  built;  the  latter  are  attended  with  decorum,  and 
the  Christian  Sabbath  is  respected.* 


6.  CENTRAL  AFRICA. 


Central  Africa,  sometimes  called  Nigritia,  or  Negroland,  oo 
cupies  a  wide  extent  of  country,  and  embraces  numerous 
states  or  kingdoms,  the  principal  of  which  are,  Bornou,  Beg- 
harmi,  Mandara,  Loggun,  the  Fellatah  kingdom,  Timbuctoo, 
Borgoo,  Youriba,  Bainbarra,  &c. 

Of  these,  Bornou  appears  to  be  the  most  important  sove- 
reignty, and  the  best  known.  It  lies  west  of  the  lake  Tchad 
and  east  of  Houssa,  between  10°  and  15°  N.  lat.  It  forms  an 
extensive  plain,  stretching  200  miles  along  the  western  shore 
of  the  immense  lake  already  mentioned,  and  nearly  the  same 
distance  inland. 

♦  A»pin's  Cosmorama. 
41  • 


4S2  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

CENTRAL  AFRICA. 

Tho  jiojnihition  of  Boinou,  estimated  by  Major  Dciihani  at 
5,000,000  souls,  is  composed  of  a  irreat  diversity  of  races  and 
tribes;  and  no  fewer  than  ten  diflerent  dialects  are  sjioken  in 
the  empire.  The  Bornonese,  or  Kanowry,  as  they  call  tliem- 
.selves,  are  cliaracterized  by  a  large  uiimeanint,'-  face,  with  the 
neffro  nose,  wide  mouth,  trood  teeth  and  lii<jh  forehead, 
"They  are  peaceable,  quiet,  and  civil ;  they  salute  each  other 
with  conileniisness  and  warmth  ;  and  th(Me  is  a  remarkably 
js^ood-natured  heaviness  about  them.  Tliey  are  no  warriois, 
but  revengeful;  and  the  best  of  them  are  iriven  to  petty  lar- 
cenies on  every  opportunity  that  olfers.  They  are  extiemely 
timid. 

"  The  women  are  particularly  cleanly,  but  not  irood  looking: 
they  liave  large  mouths,  very  thick  lii)s,  and  high  foreheads. 
The  manner  of  dressing  their  hair  is  also  very  unbecoming. 
It  is  brought  ov(>r  the  top  of  the  head  in  three  thick  rolls,  joining 
in  front  in  a  point,  and  thickly  |)lastere(l  with  indigo  and  bees- 
wax. Behind  the  point,  it  is  wiry,  very  linely  platted,  and  turn- 
ed up  like  a  drake's  tail.  The  tatiaan,  common  to  all  negro 
nations  in  these  latitudes,  and  by  which  their  country  is  in- 
stantly known,  are  here  particularly  unlxH-oming.  The  Bor- 
nouese  have  twenty  cuts  or  lines  on  each  side  of  the  face, 
drawn  from  the  corners  of  the  mouth  towards  the  angles  of 
the  lower  jaw  and  cheek-bone.  They  have  also  one  cut  in  the 
centre  of  the  forehead,  si.x  on  each  arm,  six  on  each  leg  and 
thigh,  four  on  each  breast,  and  nine  on  each  side,  just  above 
the  hips."  "  It  is  (]uite  distressing,"  says  Major  Denham,  "  to 
witness  the  torture  the  poor  little  children  undergo,  who  are 
thus  marked;  enduring  not  only  heat,  but  the  attacks  of  mil- 
lions of  Hies."  Th(^y  are  the  most  humlile  of  females,  never 
approaching  their  husbands  except  on  their  knees,  or  s)ieak- 
ing  to  any  of  the  male  sex,  otherwise  than  with  the  head  and 
face  covered,  and  kneeling. 

In  their  nKunicr  of  livinir,  the  Bornonese  are  sim|il(>  in  the 
extieme.  Flour  made  into  a  paste,  sweetenetl  with  honey, 
and  with  fat  potn-ed  over  it,  is  a  dish  for  a  sultan.  The  use  of 
bread  is  not  known  ;  little  wheat,  therefore,  is  grown.  Indeed, 
it  is  found  only  in  the  houses  of  the  great.  Barley  is  also 
scarce;  a  little  is  sown  between  the  wheat,  and  is  used,  when 
bruised,  to  take  off  the  brackish  taste  of  th(^  water.  The  grain 
most  in  use  among  the  |)eople  of  all  classes,  and  upon  which 
also  animals  are  fed,  is  <riiKS(ih.  a  species  of  millet.  The  poor 
people  will  eat  it  raw  or  parched  in  the  sun,  and  be  satisiied 
without  any  other  nourishment  for  several  days  together. 
Bruised  and  sieejied  in  wal<'r,  it  forms  the  travelling  stock  of 
all  pilui mis  and  soldiers. 

The  rice  of  Bornou  is  of  an  inferior  quality  ;  what  is  u.sed  is 
brought  from  rMiudan.  Indian  corn,  cotton,  and  indigo,  are  the 
most  valuable  productions  of  the  soil  ;  thi>  latter  irrow  wild, 
close  to  the  Tchad,  aii<]  in  the  inundated  groimds.  The  senna- 
plant  is  also  found  wild,  and  in  ai)undance.     There  is  probably 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  483 

GAME — CHIKF  TOWNS. 

no  spot  of  land  between  the  tropics,  not  absolutely  desert,  so 
destitute  of  eitlier  fruit  or  vegetables,  as  the  kingdom  of  Bor- 
nou.  The  people  have  nothing  beyond  the  bare  necessaries 
of  life,  and  are  rich  only  in  slaves,  herds,  and  horses.  Their 
dogs,  sheep,  goats,  cows,  and  oxen,  are  beyond  calculation. 
The  Shouaas  on  the  shores  of  tlie  Tchad,  have  probably  20,00G 
near  their  different  villages  ;  while  the  banks  of  the  river  Shary 
could  furnish  double  that  number.  The  domestic  fowl  is  com- 
mon, and  is  the  cheapest  animal  food  that  can  be  prociu-ed^ 
but  they  are  small  and  ill-flavored.  Game  of  all  kinds  is  abun- 
dant. Besides  gazelles,  antelopes,  and  hares,  there  is  an  ani 
mal  called  koorigum  about  the  size  of  a  red  deer,  with  annula- 
ted  horns ;  there  are  very  large  partidges,  small  grouse, 
guinea-fowl,  and  water-fowl  of  all  kinds.  The  flesh  of  the 
ostrich  also  is  -much  esteemed.  That  of  the  buffalo,  which  has 
a  high  game  flavor,  is  a  delicacy.  Tlie  elephant  is  hunted 
and  killed  for  the  sake  of  his  flesh  as  well  as  his  tusks  ;  and  the 
giraffe  is  met  with  and  killed  by  the  buffalo  hunters,  in  the 
woods  and  marsh)^  grounds  near  the  Tchad.  The  crocodfle 
and  the  hippopotamus  are  also  found  in  Bornou,  and  the  flesh 
of  both  is  eaten.  That  of  the  crocodile  is  pronounced  by 
Major  Denham  extremely  fine;  "it  has  a  green  fat  resem- 
bling the  turtle,  and  the  callipee  has  the  color,  firnmess,  and 
flavor  of  the  finest  veal. — The  bees  are  so  numerous  as  in 
some  places  to  obstruct  the  passage  of  travellers.  The  locust 
is  a  frequent  visiter,  and  the  nafives  eat  them  with  avidity, 
eitlrer  roasted  or  boiled,  or  formed  into  balls  as  a  paste." 

The  towns  aie  in  general  large  and  well  built,  surrounded 
with  walls  from  35  to"40  feet  in  height,  and  20  feet  thick.  The 
principal  ones,  besides  Kouka,  are  Birnie,  (a  word  answer- 
ing to  the  Arabic  Medina,  city,)  the  residence  of  the  Sultan; 
Old  Birnie,  the  ancient  capital;  and  Angornon,  the  largest 
and  most  populous  town  in  Bornou,  where  tlie  sheikh  resided 
previously  to  his  building  Kouka. 

New  Birnie  is  a  walled  town  of  huts,  of  the  same  desc-ription 
as  those  in  Kouka,  and  is  supposed  to  contain  iO,000  inhabi- 
tants. The  sultan  resides  in  a  mud  -edifice.  When  Major 
Denham  was  presented  to  him,  he  received  the  party  in  an 
open  space  before  the  palace,  seated  within  a  sort  of  cage  of 
cane  or  wood,  on  an  elevated  cushion  which  appeared  to  be 
covered  with  satin.  His  courtiers,  to  the  number  of  nearly 
three  hundred,  after  prostrating  themselves  before  his  sable 
majesty,  took  their  seats  on  the  ground  in  front,  but  with  their 
backs  to  the  throne,  and,  facing  the  visiters,  who  were  kept 
at  a  considerable  distance,  while  the  sultan  looked  through 
the  lattice-work  of  his  pavilion,  on  the  assembly  before  him. 
Nothing  could  be  more  grotesque  than  the  figures  who  com- 
posed the  group. 

Old  Birnie  is  nearly  100  miles  from  Kouka.  It  formerly 
covered  a  space  of  five  or  six  miles  square,  and  is  said  to 
have  had  a  population  of  200,000  souls.    "  The  ruins  of  this 


484  UNIVERSAL    TRAVELLER. 

CENTRAL  AFRICA. 

city,"  says  Major  Denham,  "certainly  tended  more  strongly  to 
convince  us  of  the  |)ower  of  its  former  sultans  than  any  of  the 
tciles  we  have  heard  of  their  magnificence." 

Been ARMi  is  a  large  and  fertile  region  north  of  Bornon.  Of 
its  inhal)itants  little  is  known,  excepting  that  they  are  inferior, 
both  in  number  and  civilization,  to  their  southern  neiglibors. 
With  the  latter  they  carry  on  a  continual  warfare,  tiie  chief 
object  of  which  is  to  procure  slaves,  which  they  send  into 
Egj'pt  and  Fezzan.  Major  Denham  says  that  the  r.(>ii;harmi 
cavalry  are  individually  stiong  and  lierce,  and  that  both  riders 
itnd  horses  are  still  more  thoroughly  cased  in  mail  than  those 
of  Bornou ;  but  their  courage,  when  brought  to  the  i)roof,  is 
rarely  on  a  level. 

Man'dara  lies  south  of  Bornou.  Its  capital  is  Mora,  ISO 
miles  from  Kouka.  The  people,  difler  in  appearance  from 
Uie  Bornouese,  and  the  difi'erencc  is  all  in  their  favoi'.  The 
men  are  intelligent  and  lively,  witli  high,  (iiough  liat  foreheads, 
large  sparkling  eyes,  nose  inclined  to  aquiline,  and  features 
altogether  less  flattened  than  in  the  Bornouese,  with  wiry, 
curled  hair.  The  women  are  proverbial  for  tlieir  "good 
looks,"  their  Hottentot  protuberance  of  form,  and  delightfully 
small  hands  and  feet;  and  as  these  are  all  esteemed  a  lecom- 
mendation  in  the  eye  of  a  Turk,  Mandara  slaves  obtain  an 
advanced  price. — Of  the  iron  foimd  in  all  the  Mandara  hills, 
tlie  natives  make  hinges,  small  bars  and  a  sort  of  hoe  used 
to  weed  the  corn,  which  they  send  for  sale  to  the  towns  of 
Bornou. 

LoGGUN  lies  east  of  Mandara,  upon  the  Sliary,  a  river  which 
flows  into  the  river  Tchad.  It  is  a  rich  country,  abounding  in 
grain  and  cattle,  and  diversified  with  foic.sts  of  lofty  acacias, 
and  with  many  beautiful  shrubs.  Its  capital  is  Kermuck,  which, 
accordiiiir  to  Major  Denham,  contains  at  least  l.'j.OOO  inhabi- 
tants. They  speak  a  lanszuage  "  nearly  Begiiainii."  They 
are  a  much  handsomer  race  than  the  Burnoue.st>,  and  far  more 
intelligent;  the  women  particularly  so.  In  their  carriage  and 
manner,  they  struck  Major  Denham  as  superior  to  any  nf%:ro 
nation  he  had  seen.  Modesty,  however,  is  not  among  their 
virtues;  th(\v  are  most  expert  thieves  ;  and  they  are  j)ronoi;n- 
ced  altogether  the  cle\'erest,  and  the  most  inunoral  race  that 
tJie  above  traveller  had  met  with  in  the  black  country.  Both 
sexes  are  industrious,  and  labor  at  tin"  loom  more  n^g^ularly 
than  in  any  part  of  the  .sheikh's  dominions.  Almost  every 
house  has  its  rude  machinery  for  w«'aving,  and  the  finer  and 
closer  linen  is  here  produced:  the  width,  however,  is  invaria- 
bly the  same  as  the  Bornouese  p-iilikd.  not  exceeding  six  or 
seven  inches.  The  free  people  usually  perform  this  labor, 
while  the  female  .slaves  preiiare  the  cotton,  and  give  it  the 
deep  blue  dye  so  much  esteemed,  by  their  incom])arable  indi- 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  485 

FELLATAH3. 

go.  They  have  a  metal  currency  here  of  a  singular  descrip- 
tion: it  consists  of  thin  plates  of  iron,  "something  in  the 
shape  of  the  tip  with  which  they  shoe  race-horses ;  these  are 
made  into  parcels  of  ten  or  twelve,  according  to  the  weight, 
and  thirty  of  these  parcels  are  equal  to.ten  r&ttota,  or  a  dollar." 

The  Fellatah  kingdom  or  territory  lies  west  of  Bornou, 
and  comprises  Houssa,  Zegzeg,  Kano,  Cashna,  &c. 

Houss a  is  itself  an  extensive  region,  comprehending  several 
minor  states.  The  inhabitants  are  negroes,  but  not  quite  black, 
■very  intelligent,  and  distinguished  by  ^:heir  skill, and  industry. 
They  manufacture  large  quantities  of  cottot^i,  and  can  dye  all 
colors  but  scarlet.  The  government  is  despotic,  and  the  po- 
lice well  maintained.  The  revenue  of  the  state  arises  from 
an  impost  on  land  and  merchandise  ;  from  which  last,  foreign 
merchants  are  exempt,  as  an  encouragement  for  them  to  re- 
-sort tinther  :  an  evident  proof  that  these  people  are  aware  of 
what  constitutes  the  true  riches  and  sts'ength  of  a  nation. 
The  Houssans  are  distinguished  from  other  negroes  by  more 
interesting  countenances.  Their  nose  is  small,  but  not  flat 
Their  character  is  mild,  and  their  manners  are  courteous. 
They  are  extremely  fond  of  dancing,  singing,  and  all  kinds  of 
amusements,  in  which  the  females  excel.  They  accompany 
their  singing  with  a  small  instrument,  made  of  a  gourd,  with 
a  skin  stretched  over  it  like  a  drum.  The  army  contains  from 
seventy  thousand  to  eighty  thousand  cavalry,  and  one  hun- 
dred thousand  infantry,  armed  with  matchlocks  and  bows. 
A  few  miles  east  of  Houssa,  the  .capital  of  the  country,  gold  is 
obtained,  and  sought  for  in  the  night.  For  this  purpose,  they 
43over  the  legs  of  tlieir  camels,  to  protect  them  from  snakes; 
and,  taking  a  bag  of  sand,  mark  with  it  the  places  on  the  sur- 
face of  the  ground  which  glitter ;  they  afterwards  collect  the 
soil,  and  carry  it  to 'the  refiner,  who  separates  the  precious 
metal,  and  sometimes  extracts  an  ounce  of  gold  from  a  hun- 
dred weight  of  earth. 

Kano  is  a  highly  cultivated,  populous  district  or  province. 
The  capital  of  tlie  same  name  is  situated  in  lat.  12°  N.  and  is 
now,  as  it  was  six  hundred  years  ago,  the  chief  commercial 
city  of  Houssa,  and  of  all  Central  Africa.  During  his  first 
-journey,  Capt.  Clapperton  visited  this  city,  the  population  of 
which  he  estimated  to  be  between  30,000  and  40,000.  Its  mar- 
ket he  represents  as  the  greatest  scene  of  commercial  trans- 
actions in  Africa.  But  the  busiest  scene  is  the  slave  market, 
composed  of  two  long  ranges  of  sheds,  one  for  males  and 
another  for  females.  These  poor  creatures  are  seated  in  rows, 
decked  out  for  exhibition ;  the  buyer  scrutinizes  them  as 
nicely  as  a  purchaser  with  us  does  a  horse,  inspecting  the 
tongue,  teeth,  eyes,  and  limbs,  making  them  cough'  and  per- 
form  various  movements,  to  ascertain  if  there  be  any  thing 
unsound  ;  and  in  case  of  a  oiemish  appearing,  or  even  with- 
41* 


486  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

CENTRAL    AFR1C:A. 

out  assigning  a  reason,  he  may  return  them  within  three 
days.  As  soon  as  the  slaves  are  sold,  the  exposer  gets  back 
their  finery,  to  be  employed  in  ornamenting  others.  Most  of 
the  captives  purchased  at  Kano  arc  conveyed  across  the  des- 
ert, during  which  their  masters  endeavor  to  keep  up  their 
spirits  by  an  assurance  that,  on  passing  its  boundary,  they 
will  be  set  free,  and  be  dressed  in  red,  which  they  account 
the  gayest  of  colors.  Supplies,  however,  often  fail  in  this 
dreary  journey, — a  want  felt  first  by  the  slaves,  many  of  whom 
perish  with  hunger  and  fatigue.  Mr.  Clapperton  heard  the 
doleful  tale  of  a  mother  who  iiad  seen  her  child  dashed  to  the 
ground,  while  .slic  herself  was  compelled  by  tiu-  lash  to  drag 
on  an  exhausted  frame.  Yet,  when  at  all  lok'rably  treated, 
they  are  very  gay, — an  observation  generally  made  in  regard 
to  slaves ;  but  this  gayety,  arising  only  from  the  absence  of 
thought,  probably  conceals  much  .secret  wretchedness. 

Buxiiii::  in  Houssa,  like  wrestling  in  Bornou,  forms  a  favor- 
ite exercise,  and  the  grand  national  spectacle.  Mr.  Clapper- 
ton,  having  heard  much  of  the  fancij  of  Kano,  intimated 
his  willingness  to  |)ay  for  a  performance,  which  was  foitliwith 
arranged.  The  whole  bcnly  of  butchers  attended,  and  acted 
as  masters  of  the  ceremonies;  while,  as  soon  as  the  tidings 
spread,  girls  left  their  pitchers  at  the  wells,  the  market  people 
threw  down  their  baskets,  and  an  immense  crowd  was  as- 
sembled. The  ring  being  formed,  and  ihiims  beat,  the  jier- 
formers  first  came  forward  singing,  plying  their  nmscles  like 
a  musician  tuning  his  instrument,  and  each  calling  out  to  the 
bystanders,  "I  am  a  hyena  ;  I  am  a  lion  ;  I  can  kill  all  that 
oppose  me."  Afti-r  about  twenty  had  shown  olf  in  this  man- 
ner, they  came  forward  in  jiairs,  wearing  only  a  leathern 
girdle,  and  with  their  hands  niuflled  up  in  numerous  folds  of 
country  cloth.  It  v.as  first  ascertained  that  they  were  not 
mutual  friends  ;  aftei"  which,  they  closed  with  tiie  utmost  fury, 
aiming  their  blows  at  the  most  mortal  parts,  «s  the  pit  of  tl)e 
stomach,  beneath  the  ribs,  or  under  the  ear;  they  even  en- 
deavored to  scoop  out  the  eyes  ;  so  that,  in  spile  of  every  pre- 
caution, the  matcii  often  terminates  in  the  death  of  one  of  the 
combatants.  "\V  henever  Mr.  Clapperton  saw  the  atlair  verg- 
ing to  such  an  issue,  he  gave  orders  to  stop ;  and,  after  seeing 
six  pairs  exhibit,  )iaid  the  hire  and  broke  up  the  meeting. 

Tlie  most  populous  city  .seen  by  Clapperton  in  the  Ulterior 
of  Africa  is  »S'otc«/oo,  the  capital  of  tlie  Fellatah  dominions, 
which  stands  on  a  river  dividmg  Cashna  from  Kano.  Tile 
houses  in  this  city  stand  more  closely  together  than  in  most 
other  towns  of  Iloussa,  and  aie  legular  well  built  streets. 
It  is  surrounded  by  a  wall  twenty  or  thirty  leet  higli,  with 
twelve  gates,  which  are  punctually  shut  at  siinset.  The  dwell- 
ings of  the  principal  inhabitants  are  clusters  f)f  cottages  and 
fiat-roolt'd  houses,  in  the  Moorish  style,  enclosed  by  high 
walls.    There  are  two  mosques,  one  of  which,  then  in  progress 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  487 

SOCCATOO. 

pf  building,  was  800  feet  long,  adorned  with  numerous  pillars 
of  wood  plastered  with  clay,  and  highly  ornamented. 

It  was  in  this  city,  during  his  second  journey,  that  the  en- 
terprising and  intelligent  Clapperton  paid  the  debt  of  nature, 
Richard  Lander,  who  with  his  brother  afterwards  solved  the 
great  problem  respecting  the  termination  of  the  Niger,  was  at 
this  time  the  attendant  of  Clapperton,  and  to  him  we  are  in- 
debted for  an  account  of  the  closing  moment  of  this  adventur- 
ous traveller.  Overcome  with  heat  and  fatigue  during  a  hunt- 
ing excursion,  Clapperton  injudiciously  laid  down  on  a  damp 
spot  in  the  open  air,  soon  after  which  he  was  seized  with  dys- 
entery, which  soon  brought  him  to  his  grave.  AVhen  no  iong-= 
er  able  to  rise,  he  called  Lander  to  his  bedside  and  said,— ^ 
/*  Richard,  I  shall  shortly  be  no  more,  I  feel  myself  dying." 
Almost  choked  with  grief,  Lander  i^eplied,  "God  forbid,  my 
dear  master, — you  will  live  many  years  yet."  But  the  other 
replied,  "Don't  be  so  much  affected,  my  dear  boy,  L  entrea-t 
you;  it  is  the  will  of  the  Almighty,  it  cannot  be  helped."  He 
then  gave  particular  directions  as  to  the  disposal  of  his  pa- 
pers, and  of  all  that  remained  of  his  property  ;  to  which  strict 
attention  was  promised.  "Heth-en,"  says  Lander,  "  took  my 
hand  within  liis,  and  looking  me  full  in  the  face,  while  a  tear 
stood  glistening  in  his  eye,  said  in  a  low  but  deeply  affected 
tone,  'My  dear  Richard,  if  you  had  not  been  with  me,  I  should 
have  died  long  ago;  I  can  only  thank  you  with  my  latest 
breath  for  your  kindness  an-d  attachment  to  me ;  and  if  I  could 
have  lived  to  return  wiih  you,  yon  should  have  been  placed 
beyond  the  reach  of  want ;  but  God  will  reward  you.'  "  He 
still  survived  some  days,  and  appeared  even  to  rally  a  little; 
but,  one  morning.  Lander  was  alarmed  by  a  peculiar  rattling 
sound  in  his  throat,  and,  hastening  to  the  bedside,  found  him 
sitting  up,  and  staring  wildly  around  ;  he  laid  his  head  gently 
on  the  dying  man's  sbonlder ;  some  indistinct  words  quivered 
on  his  lips  ;  he  strove,  but  ineffectually,  to  give  them  utter- 
ance, and  expired  without  a  struggle  or  a  sigh. 

We  must  terminate  our  account  of  Central  Africa  with  a 
brief  notice  of  Timbucloo^  a  kingdom  lying  to  the  west  of  Houij- 
sa,  on  the  Niger,  and  which  has  long  been  an  object  of  curi- 
osity fo  Europeans,  on  account  of  the  commerce  carried  on 
by  the  inhabitants  of  its  capital.  This  capital  was  first  visited 
daring  the  present  century  by  Adams,  an  American  sailor^ 
who  was  f^hip wrecked  on  the  coast  of  Africa  in  1810 — by 
Liaing,  an  Englishman,  who  reached  the  city  in  his  travels  in 
1826,  but  was  murdered  on  his  return ;  and,  lastly,  by  Caillie, 
a  F'renchman,  who  visited  it  in  1827,  and  on  his  return  to 
France  published  a  narrative  of  his  travels.  According  to  this 
traveller,  the  city  is  distant  from  the  Niger  about  eight  miles, 
forming  a  sort  of  triangle,  in  circumference  about  three  milesv 
The  houses  are  large  but  not  high,  and  are  built  of  round 
bricks  baked  in  the  sun..  The  streets  he  represents  as  clean, 
and  sufficiently  wide  for  three  horsemen  to  pass  abreast 


483  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

WESTERN   AFRICA. 

The  population  he  estimates  at  only  10,000,  or  12,000,  which 
not  heinji^  in  proportion  to  a  town  three  miles  in  circumference 
is  probul)ly  underrated.  It  is  a  place  of  i^reat  commerce,  es- 
pecially in  salt.  The  population  consists  in  Moors  and  Ne' 
groes.  They  are  re4}resented  as  much  attached  to  their  native 
•  country,  and  possess  great  ease  and  suavity  of  Tnann»'rs. 
They  are  in  general  a  stout,  healthy  race,  and  grease  them- 
selves to  make  their  skins  smooth  and  shiny.  The  females 
are  represented  as  very  handsome.  ]3oth  sexes  make  inci.s- 
ions  in  their  faces,  and  slain  them  blue.  The  usual  dress  is 
a  blue  nankeen  frock,  or  shirt,  reachujg  a  little  below  the 
knees.  The  people  iire  dirty,  but  very  f(»«d  of  ornamentaj 
wearing  brass  rings  on  their  lingers  and  in  their  ears;  ana 
dancing  is  their  favorite  amusement.  I'hey  measure  time  by 
<Jays,  weeks,  and  lunar  months;  y^  few  of  them  can  tell  their 
own  age.  Every  three  months  they  hold  a  festival  of  two  or 
three  days'  continuance  ;  but  observe  no  sabbath  ;  neither 
have  they  temples,  churches,  mosques,  or  religious  ceremo- 
nies, nor  even  obsequies  for  the  dead.* 


7.  WESTERN  AFRICA. 

Western  Africa  includes  a  great  extent  of  country,  and  un- 
tler  the  general  divisions  of  Senegambia,  Guinea,  Congo,  An- 
gola and  lienguela.  comprehends  nrany  subdivisions  and  in- 
'lependent  states.  To  minutely  survey  even  a  moiety  of  tliese^ 
after  the  wide  ranire  wi?  haTe  taken,  would  tax  tlie  time  and 
patience  of  our  fellow  travellers  beyond  civility.  Like  our- 
selves, we  are  willing  to  fancy  them,  if  not  actually  weary,  at 
least  willing  to  rest,  and  indulging  an  increasing  desire  to  look 
once  more  upon  our  native  land. 

We  will,  therefore,  relieve  our  friends,  having  briefly  turn- 
<fd  their  attention  Id  two  or  thnn*  kNnr(k)n)s  which  have 
attracted  tiie  attention  of  travellers  more  than  others,  on  ao- 
coimt  of  greater  improvements  noticed  among  them,  than  in 
•any  othi-r  j)ortion  of  Western  Africa. 

The  first  of  these  i.s  the  khig/Iom  of  /td/imnry,  lying  north  of 
the  gulf  of  ( JiiineH,  and  east  of  Ashantee.  The  capital  is  Abo-^ 
wpy,  about  ISO  miles  in  the  interior.  Mr.  Norris,  scmie  years 
since,  visited  this  coimtr)'  to  observe  the  charactJ-r  and  posi- 
tion of  this  remarkable  |)eople,  an«l  to  make  arrangenuMits  for 
the  benefit  of  the  ]<"nglish  trade.  He  arrivi«<l  at  tli»;  capital  al 
an  appalling  seasMU,  that  of  the  annual  nmlnnix^  when  the  great 
men  as.sembled  from  every  (juarter'of  the  kingdom ;  and  he 
was  truly  astonished  to  see  those  lierce  and  warlike  chief- 

*  Discovery  and  Adventures  in  Africa- 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  489 

DAHOMEY. 

tains,  whose  very  name  spreads  terror  tliroughout  Africa, 
prostrating  themselves  before  the  monarcli,  flat  on  the  ground, 
and  piling  dust  on  their  heads  in  token  of  the  most  abject 
submission.  This  homage  is  yielded,  not  from  fear,  but  from 
a  bUnd  and  idolatrous  veneration,  which  makes  them  regard 
their  king  in  the  light  of  a  superior  being.  In  his  name  they 
rush  to  battle,  and  encounter  their  foes  with  Spartan  intrepid- 
ity. One  of  them  said  to  Mr.  Norris,  "1  think  of  my  king, 
and  then  I  dare  engage  live  of  the  enemy  myself"  He  add- 
ed, "my  liead  belongs  to  the  king,  and  not  to  myself;  if  he 
please  to  send  for  it,  1  am  ready  to  resign  it;  or  if  it  be  shot 
through  in  a  battle,  1  am  satisfied,  since  it  is  in  his  service." 
The  main  object  contemplated  in  this  national  anniversary  is, 
that  the  king  may  water  the  graves  of  his  ancestors  with  the 
blood  of  human  victims.  These  are  numerous,  consisting  of 
prisoners  taken  in  war,  of  condemned  criminals,  and  of  many 
seized  by  lawless  violence.  The  captives  are  brought  out  in 
succession,  \\ith  their  arms  pinioned  ;  and  a  fetisheer,  laying 
his  hand  upon  the  devoted  head,  utters  a  few  magic  words, 
while  another  from  behind,  with  a  large  cimeter,  severs  it 
from  the  body,  when  shouts  of  applause  ascend  from  the  sur- 
rounding multitude.  At  any  time  when  the  king  has  a  mes- 
sage to  convey  to  his  deceased  relations,  he  delivers  it  to  one 
of  his  subjects,  then  strikes  off  his  head,  that  he  may  carry 
it  to  another  world  ;  and  if  aAy  thing  further  occui's  to  him 
after  he  has  jierformed  this  ceremon}',  he  delivers  it  to  another 
messenger,  whom  he  despatches  in  the  same  manner. 

Another  grand  object  of  this  periodical  festival  is  the  market 
for  wives.  All  the  unmarried  females  throughout  the  king- 
dom are  esteemed  the  property  of  the  sovereign,  and  are 
brought  to  the  annual  customs,  to  be  placed  at  his  disposal. 
He  selects  for  himself  such  as  appear  most  beautiful  and  en- 
gaging, and  retails  the  others  at  enormous  prices  to  his  chiefs 
and  nobles.  No  choice  on  this  occasion  is  allowed  to  the  pur- 
chaser ;  in  return  Ibr  his  twenty  thousand  cowries,  a  wife  is 
handed  out,  and  even  if  she  be  old  and  ugly,  he  must  rest 
contented  ;  nay,  some,  it  is  said,  have  in  miockery  been  pre- 
sented with  their  own  mothers.  The  king  usuall}'  keeps  his 
wives  up  to  the  number  of  three  thousand,  who  serve  him  in 
various  capacities — being  partly  trained  to  act  as  body-guard, 
regularly  regimented,  and  equipped  with  drums,  flags,  bows 
and  arrows,  while  a  few  carry  muskets.  They  all  reside  in 
the  palace,  which  consists  merely  of  an  immense  assemblage 
of  cane  and  mud  tents,  enclosed  by  a  high  wall.  The  sculls 
and  jaw-bones  of  enemies  slain  in  battle  form  the  favorite  or- 
nament of  palace  and  temples.  The  king's  apartment  is 
paved,  and  the  walls  and  roof  stuck  over  with  these  horrid 
trophies ;  and  if  a  further  supply  appears  desirable,  lie  an- 
nounces to  his  general  that  "  his-  house  wants  thatch,"  when 
a  war  for  that  purpose  is  immediately  undertaken. 

The  most  powerful  kingdom,  however,  in  all  western  Afri- 


490  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

WESTERN    AFRICA. 

ca,  is  tliat  of  Ashanlee.  It  is  800  miles  in  ientrth,  and  350  in 
breadth,  lyintj  west  of  Dalionioy.  Its  population  is  estimated 
at  100,000  without  reckoning  the  tributary  nations,  which  ar« 
twenty-two  in  number.  The  capital  is  Cnomassic.  This  was 
visited  by  Commissioners  of  the  British  Government  in  1817, 
to  adjust  some  dissensions  which  had  arisen. 

Great  was  the  surprise  of  these  commissioners  at  the  un- 
expected splendor  of  the  capital.  The  houses,  though  low, 
and  constructed  only  of  wood,  were  profusely  covered  with 
ornaments  and  sculpture.  The  ari'ay  of  the  caboceers,  sireat 
war-chiefs,  was  at  once  brilliant,  dazzling,  and  wild.  They 
were  loaded  with  fine  cloUies,  in  whicli  variou.sly  colored 
threads  of  the  richest  foreign  silks  were  curiously  interwoven; 
and  both  themselves  and  their  horses  were  coveied  with  dec- 
orations of  gold  beads,  Moorish  charms,  or  amulets,  pur- 
chased at  a  high  price,  and  the  whole  intermingled  with 
strings  of  human  teeth  and  bones.  Leopards'  skins,  sea-shells, 
elephants'  tails,  eagle  and  ostrich  feathers,  and  brass  bells, 
were  among  the  favorite  ornaments.  On  l)eing  introduced  to 
the  king,  the  English  found  all  these  embellishments  crowded 
and  concentrated  on  his  own  peison  and  that  of  his  attend- 
ants, who  were  literally  opjiressed  with  large  masses  of  solid 
gold.  Even  the  most  common  utensils  were  composed  of  that 
metal.  At  the  same  time,  the  executioner  with  a  hatchet  on 
his  breast,  and  the  execution-fetool  clotted  with  blood,  gave  a 
thoroughly  savage  character  to  ail  this  jjomp.  ^'he  manners 
of  the  king,  however,  were  marked  by  a  dignified  courtesy^ 
he  received  the  strangers  cordially,  and  desired  thern  to  come 
aiid  speak  tiieir  palaver  in  the  market-place. 

During  their  stay  at  Coomassie,  the  commissioners  wit- 
nessed dreadful  scenes,  which  seem  to  sink  the  Ashantee 
character  even  below  the  ordinary  level  of  savage  lite.  The 
C7fs/on*A\  or  human  sacrifices,  are  practised  on  a  scale  stiU 
more  trfmendous  than  at  Dahomey.  The  king  had  lately  sa- 
crificed on  the  grave  of  his  molher  3000  victims,  20UO  of  whom 
were  Fantee  prisoners  ;  and  at  the  death  of  the  late  sovereign, 
the  sacrifice  was  continued  weekly  for  three  months,  consist- 
ing each  time  of  two  liiin(ire<i  slaves.  The  absurd  belief  here 
entertained,  that  the  rank  of  the  deceased  in  the  future  world 
is  decided  by  the  Uain  which  he  carries  along  with  him,  makes 
filial  piety  interested  in  promoting,  by  this  means,  the  exalta- 
tion of  a  departed  parent.  On  these  occisions,  the  caboceers 
and  princes,  in  order  to  court  royal  favor,  often  rush  out,  seize 
the  first  person  they  meet,  and  drag  him  in  for  sacrifice. — 
While  the  customs  last,  therefore,  it  is  with  treml)liMg  steps 
that  any  one  crosses  his  threshold  ;  and  when  c(jmpeiled  to  do 
so,  he  rushes  along  with  the  utmost  speed,  dreading  every  in 
stant  the  murderous  grasp  which  would  consign  him  to  death. 

The  mm  of  Ashantee  are  very  well  made,  tliough  less  mus- 
cular than  their  neighbors,  the  Fantees;  and  tlieir  counte- 
nances arc  frequently  aquiline.     The  woiuen  are  generally 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  491 

ASHANTEES. 

handsome;  and  among  those  of  the  higher  order,  who  are  ex- 
empt from  labor  and  hardship,  the  finest  figures,  with  regular 
Grecian  features  and  brilliant  eyes,  set  rather  obliquely  in  the 
head,  are  to  be  found.  Both  men  and  women  are  peculiarly 
clean  in  their  persons,  the  latter  washing  themselves,  and  the 
former  being  washed  by  them,  daily,  from  head  to  foot,  with 
warm  water  and  Portuguese  soap,  after  which  the  vegetable 
butter  is  used  as  a  cosmetic.  Their  clothes  are  always  scru- 
pulously clean.  Occasionally,  small  delicate  patterns,  in  green 
and  white  paint, 'are  traced  on  their  cheeks  and  temples. 

The  houses  of  these  people,  who  aff"ord  a  specimen  of  the 
greatest  civilization  to  be  Ibund  on  the  Guinea  coast,  are  con- 
structed with  double  rows  of  stakes  or  wattles,  for  the  walls, 
the  intervals  being  filled  up  with  gravelly  clay  mixed  M'ith  wa- 
ter, with  which  the  outside  service  of  the  frame,  or  stake-work, 
is  also  so  thickly  plastered,  as  to  give  it  the  appearance  of  an 
entire  thick  mud  wall.  The  houses  have  all  gable-ends;  and 
the  covering  consists  of  a  thatch  of  palm-leaves.  The  clay 
walls,  while  still  wet,  are  ornamented  with  moulds  made  of 
split  cane  and  grass.  Many  of  the  superior  houses  are  sup- 
ported by  pillars  in  front,  consisting  of  thick  posts,  covered 
with  the  same  kind  of  clay.  Arcades  and  piazzas  are  com- 
mon, The  doors  are  entire  pieces  of  cotton-wood,  cut  with 
great  labor  out  of  the  stem  of  tiie  tree.  The  windows  are  open 
wood-work,  carved  in  various  fanciful  patterns,  and  generally 
painted  red.  Some  of  the  richest  people  have  their  window- 
frames  cased  with  gold.  Interiorly,  the  Ashantee  houses  are 
kept  with  great  neatness. 

When  a  person  of  consequence  dies,  one  or  two  slaves  are 
immediately  sacrificed  at  the  door  of  the  house ;  and  others 
are  afterwards  immolated  at  the  funeral.  The  death  is  an- 
nounced by  the  firing  of  musketry;  and  large  quantities  of 
powder  are  subsequently  spent  in  the  same  way.  It  is  also 
usual  to  "wet  the  grave"  with  the  blood  of  a  free  man  of  re- 
spectability. Several  are  unexpectedly  and  hastily  called 
upon  to  assist  in  placing  the  body  in  its  final  depository,  and, 
while  so  engaged,  one  of  them  is  struck  on  the  back  of  the 
neck,  and  thrown  in  upon  the  body;  and  the  grave  is  imme- 
diately filled  up.  On  the  death  of  the  king,  all  the  funeral  rites 
that  have  taken  place  during  his  reign  must  be  simultaneously 
repeated  by  the  families  of  the  deceased,  not  excepting  the 
human  sacrifices,  to  amplify  that  of  the  deceased  monarch, 
which  is  also  solemnized  with  all  possible  extravagance  and 
barbarity.  The  brothers,  sons,  and  nephews,  of  the  deceased 
monarch,  affecting  temporary  insanity,  burst  forth  among  the 
crowd  and  their  muskets,  promiscuously  ;  if  they  meet  even  a 
man  of  rank,  he  becomes  their  victim.  The  scene  of  carnage 
is  truly  horrible.* 

♦  Discovery  and  adventures  in  Africa. 


492  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

AFRICA. 

To  the  south  of  Daliomey  several  hundred  miles,  and  be- 
low the  equator,  lie  the  kingdoms  of  Loango,  Congo,  Angola, 
&c.  Of  tiiese,  Loango  lies  on  the  north.  It  wa.s  formerly  a 
part  of  the  great  kingdom  of  Congo,  but,  like  Angola,  was  dis- 
meuilx  rt>d  from  it,  and  established  into  a  separate  state. 

Autiiorities  diller  considerably  as  to  the  inhabitants.  By 
some,  they  are  rejiresented  as  industrious,  accjuainted  with 
various  arts,  and  engaged  in  commercial  pursuits.  By  others, 
they  are  said  to  be  indolent,  and  so  remarkably  averse  to  ag- 
ricultural labor,  that  they  raise 'scarcely  sufticicnt  for  their 
subsis'tence.  Hence  it  sometimes  happens,  that  a  bad  season 
is  followed  by  a  famine,  which  carries  off  vast  numbers  of 
the  inhabitauLs.  In  general,  they  are  satisfied  with  bread  and 
fish,  and  such  fruits  and  vegetables  as  the  earth  spontane- 
ously produces. 

Their  dress  is  generally  of  their  own  manufacture,  consist- 
ing of  cloth  made  from  the  leaves  of  the  palm,  banana,  or 
some  similar  tree.  Persons  of  the  higher  rank  wear  their 
clothes  from  the  middle  to  the  ankles,  but  those  of  the  lower 
only  to  the  knee.  Tln^y  also  adorn  tlieniseives  with  beautiful 
feathers,  and  not  uufreijuently  suspeud  a  number  of  little 
bells,  which  make  a  strange  tinkling  at  every  movement  of 
the  body.  Their  garments  are  bound  with  a  rich  girdle  about 
their  middle.  Their  necks,  wrists,  and  legs,  are  ornamented 
with  beads  of  coral  and  ivory,  with  .shells  <)f  beautiful  colors; 
or  with  chains  of  various  metals.  Over  their  shoulders,  they 
throw  a  kind  of  sack,  knf)tted,  about  three-lbui  ths  of  a  yard 
long,  which  has  a  small  hole  just  laree  enough  to  admit  the 
hand,  and  this  serves  also  to  holil  their  calabash,  pipes,  to- 
bacco, and  other  provisions.  Their  heads  are  covered  with 
a  knotted  cap,  which  sits  close  upon  it ;  and  as  they  never  go 
out  without  arms,  tln'V  commonly  hold  a  bow,  sword,  or  cut- 
lass, in  their  hand.  The  dress  of  the  women  is  similar  to  that 
of  the  men,  except  that  they  wear  no  girdle,  and  that  their 
petticoats  hang  no  lower  than  the  knee.  Both  sexes  wear 
rings  of  the  richer  or  coarser  metals,  according  to  their  rank, 
which  they  regard  as  amulets,  or  preservatives  fiom  injury; 
and  both  paint  their  bodies  with  a  red  wood  called  takeel, 
which  gives  them  a  frightful  appearance. 

The  cortrnmeiit  is  truly  despotical.  The  king  is  master  of 
the  lives  of  all  his  subjects.  Such  is  their  extreme  ignorance, 
that  though  their  kings  only  style  theinselves  mniu',  or  lords 
of  Loango,  their  saibjects  not  only  give  them  the  title  of  Mo- 
liisKOfi.  but  believe  that  they  are  endowed  with  a  supernatural 
power;  that  they  can  raise  storms,  or  withhold  rains  ;  render 
the  soil  fruitful  or  barren  ;  enrich  or  impoverish  their  subjects; 
or  by  a  single  word  send  myriads  of  them  to  their  graves. 
Ilence.  it  is  a  capital  offence  to  see  them  either  eat  or  drink; 
and  treason  and  rebellion  are   punislied   with  the  cruellest 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  493 

SUPERSTITIONS — INDOLENCE. 

deaths.  Their  monarchs  can  bring  vast  armies  into  the  field 
Their  warlike  weapons  consist  of  the  short  pike,  bow  and 
arrow,  sword  and  dagger;  but  the  Europeans,. and  particu- 
larly the  Dutch,  have  furnished  them  with  fire-arms,  gunpow- 
der and  balls,  besides  a  variety  of  kitchen  utensils,  and  several 
sorts  of  coarse  cloths.  Their  targets  are  formed  of  the  hard 
and  thick  hides  of  the  dante,  and  are  big  enough  to  cover  almost 
the  whole  body,  and  strong  enough  to  repel  an  arrow  or  a  dart. 

They  entertain  various  extravagant  opinions  respecting 
the  nature  of  the  soul,  and  believe  in  its  transmigration  into 
the  bodies  of  other  men,  heroes,  demons,  and  guardian  spir- 
its. All  have  great  faith  in  their  Fetiches  ;  that  is,  the  spirit 
to  whom  they  have  been  dedicated  at  their  birth ;  and  they 
are  convinced  that  these  spirits  have  power  to  inflict  punish- 
ment, and  even  death,  on  those  who  break  any  of  their  vows 
and  engagements.  To  these  spirits  they  address  their  wor- 
ship, and  all  their  invocations.  To  them  they  ascribe  'the 
power  of  presiding  over  the  elements,  of  directing  the  storms, 
of  regulating  the  seasons,  and  of  rendering  the  soil  fruitful  or 
unfruitful.  Some  are  accounted  of  a  benevolent,  others  of  a 
malevolent  disposition ;  some  ar6  regarded  as  friends  and 
protectors,  others  are  dreaded  as  enemies  and  destroyers; 
some  they  consult  about  future,  and  others  about  past  events. 
They  worship  them  under  a  variety  of  images,  and  pay  hom- 
age to  the  good  as  well  as  to  the  bad. 

The  inhabitants  of  this,  like  those  of  the  other  countries  of 
the  torrid  zone,  are  extremely  indolent,  being  almost  incapa- 
ble of  any  exertion  beyond  what  is  absolutely  necessary  for 
the  preservation  of  life.  Their  soil  is  so  fertile,  that,  with  a 
little  industry,  they  might  be  independent  of  the  seasons,  and 
in  no  clanger  of  being  visited  by  those  dreadful  famines,  by  which 
their  country  is  often  depopulated.  But,  besides  their  aver- 
sion to  cultivate  more  ground  than  what  they  think  sufficient 
for  their  subsistence,  (a  work  which. is  all  performed  by  their 
wives,)  they  seem  to  be  naturally  formed  for  abstinence;  and 
a  European  cannot  but  be  astonished,  when  he  sees  them 
contented  and  happy,  singing,  smoking,  and  dancing,  in  the 
most  alarmitfg  scarcity.  Like  other  savages,  they  are  fi-iendly 
and  generous  to  one  another,  but  passionate  and  revengeful; 
very  libidinous,  and  jealous  of  their  wives  ;  fond  of  the  palm 
wine,  and  indifferent  to  that  of  the  grape.  Polygamy  univer- 
sally prevails.  But  women  have  little  encouragement  to  enter 
into  a  state  in  which  they  must  submit  to  the  most  painful  mor- 
tifications from  many  rivals^  while  the  violent  jealousy  of  the 
husband  reduces  them  to  the  most  melancholy  servitude.  To 
them  is  assigned  the  whole  labor  of  tilling  and  manuring  the 
ground  ;  of  reaping  and  gathering  in  the^harvest.  They  are 
also  the  only  persons  employed  in  grinding  the  millet,  and 
other  grain;  in  making  the  wines  and  other  liquors;  and 
managing  all  the  household  affairs.  They  must  stand  at  a 
42 


494  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

AFRICA. 

due  distance,  when  the  husband  eats,  and  be  satisfied  with 
what  he  chooses  to  leave  them.  They  must  approach  him, 
when  lie  enters  his  dwellincc,  with  wonls  and  jrestures  expresy 
sive  of  joy  and  respect;  and  sjK'ak  to  him,  and  receive  his 
commands,  upon  their  bended  knees.  They  are  liable  to  be 
dismissed  upon  the  least  suspicion  of  infidelity  ;  and  if  proved 
guilty  are  subjected  to  a  severer  ))unishment,  thouj^hthe  ^'■allant 
escapes  upon  paying  a  fine.  But,  thouirh  this  be  the  slavish 
state  of  the  women,  the  children  are  subjected,  by  a  strict  law, 
to  the  condition  of  the  mother.  They  continue  slaves,  if  the 
mother  be  a  slave,  although  the  father  be  free ;  and  they  re- 
main free,  if  the  mother  l)e  free-born,  although  the  father  be  a 
slave.  None  of  the  children  are  allowed  to  inherit  the  father's 
substance,  the  whole  descends  to  his  elder  brother  or  sister, 
who  are  obliged  to  take  care  of  his  family  till  they  are  able  to 
provide  for  themselves. 

Immediately  south  of  Loango,  lies  the  kingdom  of  Congo, 
which  is  said  to  be  about  150  miles  long,  and  372  broad.  It  is 
divided  into  six  large  provinces.  The  inhabitants  of  Congo, 
their  color  excepted,  which  is  commonly  black,  though  not 
unfroquently  also  of  an  olive  hue,  have  a  great  resemblance 
to  the  Portuguese.  Their  hair  is  black,  and  finely  curled; 
some  have  it  also  of  a  dark  sea  color.  They  have  neither  flat 
noses  nor  thick  lips,  like  the  Nubians  and  the  most  part  of 
negroes.  Their  stature  is  mostly  of  the  middle  size.  The 
general  indolence  of  tlieir  disposition  is  such  as  to  prevent 
them  in  a  great  measure  from  reaping  the  advantages  easily 
within  their  reach  from  a  soil  which,  if  duly  cultivated,  would 
yield  not  only  two,  but  sometimes  even  three  crops  in  the 
year.  These  peojile  seem  to  consider  it  as  unworthy  of  them  to 
engage  in  any  other  exercises  than  those  of  dancing,  leajiing, 
shooting,  and  hunting;  or  on  other  occasions,  in  smoking, 
and  more  indolent  recreations  ;  whilst  the  laborious  part  of 
their  household  affairs,  as  also  the  operations  of  digging,  sow- 
ing, reaping,  and  the  like,  are  left  to  the  conduct  of  their  slaves, 
or  in  otlier  instances,  to  tiiat  of  their  wives. 

The  accounts  given  of  the  temper,  affections,  and  disposi- 
tion of  mind  and  heart  prevalent  among  the  Congoese,  arc 
very  little  to  their  honor.  They  are  said  to  be  mistrustful, 
jealous,  enviou.s,  treacherous,  and  much  inclined  to  revenge. 
So  devoid  are  tney  stated  to  be  of  natural  afiection,  that  a 
father  will  sell  his  son  or  daughter,  or  both,  for  a  piece  of 
cloth,  a  collar,  or  girdle  of  coral  or  beads,  a  bottle  of  wine  or 
brandy,  or  other  matters  of  not  greater  intrinsic  value,  or  ca- 
pable of  yielding  a  more  permanent  satisfaction. 

The  government  of  Congo  is  monarchical,  and  as  despotic  as 
any  in  Asia  or  Africa.  The  pr(>|)erty  of  all  the  lands  within 
their  dominions  is  vested  in  the  kin<;,  who  jiarcels  tliem  out  to 
individuals  on  condition  of  a  ceitain  tribute,  and  of  the  per- 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  495 


GOVERNMENT — RELIGION. 


formance  of  particular  services.  The  crown  of  this  state  is 
partly  hereditary,  and  partly  elective.  The  respect  which 
the  Congoese  pay  to  their  sovereign  approaches  even  to  idol- 
atry. The  palace  in  which  he  lodges  is  cooimodious,  grand, 
and  spacious  ;  his  court  numerous  and  brilliant;  and  he  has 
his  seraglio,  which  is  plentifully  provided  with  concubines. 
The  standing  forces  of  the  Congoese  monarchy  are  far  from 
numerous.  They  are  at  the  same  time  neither  well  disci- 
plined, nor  well  clothed,  nor  well  armed.  Their  mode  of  fight- 
ing is  tumultuous  and  ferocious,  and  they  give  no  quarter. 
Those  that  are  taken  alive  being  hurried  to  the  sea  side,  or  to 
some  inland  market,  are  there  sold  for  slaves  to  the  Europe- 
ans. There  are  no  written  laws  among  the  Congoese,  but 
where  favor  or  bribery  do  not  interpose,  custom  and  tradition 
serve  them  instead  both  of  code  and  commentaries.  Every 
province  has  a  chief-justice,  for  civil  and  criminal  affairs,  from 
whom  an  appeal  lies  to  the  king.  Under  him  there  are  also 
inferior  officers  in  every  town  and  community.  Treason, 
murder,  and  sorcery,  are  here  deemed  capital  offences,  of 
which  the  two  first  are  punished  by  decollation,  and  the  last 
by  burning  alive.  The  punishments  of  lesser  offences  are  the 
bastinado,  hanging,  fines,  and  imprisonment. 

The  religion  of  Congo  was,  and  still  is,  in  many  parts  of 
the  country,  a  compound  of  the  most  degrading  idolatry  and 
superstition,  joined  with  a  complication  of  absurd  and  detest- 
able rites,  which  have  been  invented  by  their  priests,  for  the 
purpose  of  keeping  the  people  in  a  state  of  the  most  abject 
subjection  to  their  spiritual  tyranny.  There  is  acknowledged, 
indeed,  one  supreme  being,  called  Nzambiamponga,  belieVed 
to  be  all-powerful,  and  to  whom  is  ascribed  the  creation  of 
the  country;  but  it  is  understood  that  the  care  and  govern- 
ment of  all  sublunary  things  has  been  committed  by  him  to  a 
great  variety  of  subordinate  deities,  who  severally  preside 
over  their  particular  apartments  in  nature.  In  conformity 
with  such  views,  is  the  prodigious  multiplication  that  is  ob- 
served here  of  deities,  idols,  and  altars,  as  also  of  priests, 
and  of  religious  ceremonies. 

Concerning  dying  persons,  the  idea  that  is  entertained 
among  the  Congoese  is,  that  they  are  just  passing  from  a 
wretched  life  into  a  state  of  tranquillity  and  happiness.  Hence 
it  is  conceived  that  the  best  service  that  can  be  done  to  per- 
sons in  such  circumstances, is  to  accelerate  their  deliverance; 
a  notion  which,  among  the  vulgar,  leads  sometimes  to  the 
barbarous  practice  of  stopping  their  breath,  or  beating  upon 
their  breasts  with  violence,  that  they  may  the  sooner  enter 
into  a  state  of  felicity.  In  the  inferior  ranks  of  life,  those  who 
mourn  for  persons  deceased  shave  their  whole  heads,  and 
anoint  themselves  with  oil,  upon  which  they  rub  a  quantity 
of  earth,  dust,  and  dried  leaves,  which  give  them  a  shocking 
appearance.     Those  of  better  condition  shave  only  the  upper 


4%         L'NIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

AFRICA. 


part  of  their  heads,  which  they  bind  with  a  list  of  cloth,  linen, 
or  leather,  and  confine  theniselvM^s  to  the  house  for  eight 
whole  days.  To  shed  tears  on  such  an  occasion  is  considered 
as  a  f^reat  crime,  and  is  liable  to  punishment,  even  if  the 
culprit  should  be  the  king.  Upon  the  death  of  the  monarch, 
persons  kept  in  pay  for  the  purpose,  go  to  all  the  public  places 
in  the  cities,  to  acfpiaint  the  people  of  the  fact,  by  the  mourn- 
ful soujid  of  their  ivory  cornets.  Before  the  introduction  of 
Christianity  into  the  country,  the  funeral  obsequies  of  such  n 
personage  were  celebrated  by  various  kinds  of  sacrifices,  and 
superstitious  ceremonies,  accompanied  with  music,  howling, 
dancing,  and  feasting.  These  were  continued  for  a  week,  and 
were  resumed  yearly  on  the  anniversary  of  the  king's  demise. 
It  was  customary  also  to  burj'^  alive  a  certain  number,  not 
exceeding  twelve,  of  the  favt>rite  concubines  of  the  prince, 
or  of  the  young  ladies  belonging  to  his  couit.  In  some  of 
these  respects  an  advantageous  change  has  taken  place  in 
consequence  of  that  event,  thaugh  the  effect  has  not  been  so 
complete  as  to  put  an  end  to  the  drunken  revels  which  had  been 
customary  on  such  occasions. 

The  manner  of  inlerment  for  the  princes  and  nobles,  is  to 
depositcthe  dead  body  in  wainscoted  vaults,  hung  with  black; 
two  of  tlie  old  domestics  of  the  parties  deceased  being  des- 
tined alternately  to  guard  the  (Mitrance,  and  to  give  them  the 
benefit  of  their  {)iayer3.  Other  prayevs  arc  in  hke  manner  to 
be  offered  up  on  the  anniversary  of  the  decease,  and  on  All- 
.souls'-day,  at  which  times  the  graves  are  opened,  and  the 
hangings  exchanired  for  new  ones. 

Amongst  the  Giagas,  the  most  barbarous  people  of  tliis  king- 
dom, it  is  the  custom  to  dance  in  a  frantic  manner  about  tli« 
graves  of  persons  deccaseti,  and  to  bring  them  food,  drink, 
and  other  conveniences.  The  dances  that  are  perf^irmed  at 
the  funerals  of  their  great  men  last  for  eight  days,  witliout  in- 
termission, upon  which  occasion  there  is  always  sacrificed  u 
number  of  human  victims. 

The  vnlivffi  nf  Amrola,  a  country  which  lies  south  of  Congo, 
and  which  formerly  beUmged  to  it,  are  tall  and  strong;  but, 
like  the  rest  of  the  Ethiopians,  they  are  so  very  lazy  and  in- 
dolent, that,  although  their  soil  is  admirably  aiiajited  for  the 
rearing  (»f  cattli>,  and  tin-  production  of  grain,  tlwy  allow  both 
to  be  destroyed  by  the  wild  beasts  with  which  their  country 
abounds.  The  advantages  which  they  enjoy  from  climate 
and  soil  are  thus  neglected,  except  in  some  provinces  which 
are  very  fertile  and  popuK)Us.  and  which,  being  free  from 
beasts  of  prey,  afTortl  great  herds  of  excellent  cattle.  What 
adds  to  the  misfortune  is,  that  as  the  natives  want  spirit  and 
industry  for  cultivating  the  soil,  so  the  lords  and  petty  [irinces 
will  rather  permit  it  to  lie  uncultivated,  than  allow  their  sub- 
jects a  greater  portirm  of  it  than  what  is  barely  sufikit-iit  for 
the  maintenance  of  their  families.     Indeed,  in  many  of  the 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  497 


AGRICULTURE. 


provinces  south  of  the  Coanza,  a  large  river  which  flows  into 
the  Atlantic,  the  inhabitants  are  still  in  a  very  savage  state, 
involved  in  the  utmost  barbarity  of  manners,  and  sunk  in  the 
most  deplorable  idolatry.  We  are  told  that  the  people  in  some 
of  these  idolatrous  provinces  still  feed  on  human  flesh,  and 
even  prefer  it  to  any  other;  so  that  a  dead  slave  bears  a 
higher  price  in  market  than  a  living  one.  These  cannibals 
are  in  all  probability  descended  from  the  barbarous  race  of  the 
Giagas,  by  whom  the  greater  part  of  tlie  eastern  and  southern 
provinces  were  peopled.  One  most  inhuman  custom  still  pre- 
vails in  this  part  of  the  kingdom,  and  that  is,  the  sacrificing  a 
number  of  human  victims  at  the  burial  of  their  dead,  in  tes- 
timony of  the  respect  in  which  their  memory  is  held  ;  the 
number  of  these  unhappy  victims  is  therefore  always  in  pro- 
portion to  the  rank  and  wealth  of  the  deceased,  and  their 
bodies  are  afterwards  piled  up  in  a  heap  upon  their  tombs.* 

We  shall  here  conclude  our  notices  of  Africa,  and  bring 
our  travels  to  a  close,  with  a  few  brief  and  general  remarks 
upon,  the  social  coildition  of  the  inhabitants  of  this  portion  of 
the  globe. 

The  native  tribes  of  Africa  exist  generally  in  that  stage  of 
society  which  is  denominated  barbarian.  They  are  elevated 
above  the  hunting  or  savage  state,  by  the  power  of  taming  and 
subjecting  the  lower  animals,  and  by  a  certain  rude  agriculture 
which  the  fertility  of  the  soil  renders  productive.  Yet  few  of 
them  are  nomadic  and  wandering  Uke  the  Arabs  or  the  Tartars ; 
they  generally  have  native  seats,  to  which  they  cling  with 
strong  feelings  of  local  attachment.  Even  the  tenants  of  the 
desert,  who  roam  widely  in  quest  of  commerce  and  plunder, 
have  their  little  watered  valleys,  or  circuit  of  hills,  in  which 
they  make  their  permanent  abode. 

Agriculture,  including  pasturage,  forms  the  most  important 
branch  of  industry  in  every  society,  and  more  especially  in  one 
where  all  the  finer  arts  are  yet  in  a  state  of  infancy.  In  Africa, 
however,  both  the  extent  of  cultivation  and  the  processes  era- 
ployed  are  still  extremely  imperfect.  This  is  particularly  man- 
ifest from  the  fact  that  no  private  property  inland  has  been  any- 
where established.  Every  city  or  village  is  encircled  by  an 
unoccupied  domain  of  forest  or  waste,  belonging  to  the  king 
or  the  state,  and  of  which  a  portion  is  ready  to  be  granted  to 
any  one  who  will  undertake  the  labor  and  expense  of  culti- 
vation ;  wiiile  the  remainder  forms  an  immense  common,  on 
which  all  the  inhabitants  have  the  liberty  of  pasturing  their 
cattle.  There  are  in  Africa  no  country  seats,  no  rural  farms, 
such  as  embellish  the  aspect  of  a  European  landscape ;  and 
which,  in  fact,  could  not  exist  in  safety,  where  each  little  state 
is  begirt  with  hostile  neighbors,  and  so  many  predatory  bands 
are  prowling  in  every  direction.   The  population  is  collected  in 

*  New  Edinburgh  Encyclopedia. 
42* 


49S  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

AFRICA. 

towns  orlarsxo  villafips,  round  wliich  a  circle  of  cultivation  is 
formed;  while  beyond  are  pastnre-lands  wiiere  numerous 
herds  are  fed,  and  watched  by  day  as  well  as  by  nitiht.  The 
space  within  the  walls  forms  a  pretty  wide  district,  where, 
even  in  the  largest  cities,  the  houses  are  interspersed  with 
cullivatetl  helds,and  the  hiw  roofs  are  seen  rising  behind  ears 
of  corn.  All  the  processes  of  preparing  the  ground,  sowing, 
and  reaping,  are  slight  and  simple.  The  plough  has  not 
passed  the  limits  of  Barbary;  and  perhaps,  in  tropical  climates, 
the  deep  fuirow  which  it  hiys  open  might  expose  the  soil  too 
much  to  the  parching  effects  of  a  burning  sun.  Grain  is  raised 
only  by  means  of  the  most  profuse  moisture,  which  of  itself 
softens  the  earth.  As  soon  as  the  jieriodical  floods  have  del- 
uged the  gi"ound,  or  the  temporary  river  inundation  has  re- 
tired, the  laborers  walk  forth  ;  one  slightly  stirs  the  earth  with 
a  hoe,  while  another,  close  behind,  deposites  the  grain.  Fre- 
quently this  toil  is  lightened,  from  being  performed  by  the 
whole  village  in  common,  when  it  appears  less  a  scene  of 
labor  than  a  g-ay  festival,  like' our  period  of  reaping.  The 
village  musician  plays  the  most  lively  airs  ;  the  laborers  keep 
time  to  his  tune  ;  and  a  spectator  at  a  little  distance  would 
suppose  them  to  be  dancing  instead  of  working. 

The  prevailing  gr.ains  are  of  an  inferior  character.  The 
rlliourra  is  the  most  common,  extending  over  all  Eastern  Af- 
rica :  while  millet  in  the  west,  and  teff"  in  Abyssinia,  are  pro- 
ductions nearly  similar.  In  the  latter  country,  and  Houssa, 
both  wheat  and  rice  are  raised,  but  only  in  favorable  situa- 
tions, and  for  the  tables  of  the  most  opulent.  Perhaps  the 
greatest  exertion  of  agricultural  industry  is  that  bestowed  on 
the  culture  of  the  manioc,  which  f»rms  the  main  article  of  food 
in  Congo,  and  some  of  the  insular  territories.  Considerable 
care  is  required  in  rearing  it,  and  clfaning  the  ground  round 
the  plants  ;  after  the  root,  which  is  tlie  valuable  part,  has  been 
dug  up,  it  must  be  ground  in  a  species  of  mill,  and  dried  in 
small  furnaces,  before  it  can  be  used  as  ffoiu". 

Mannfncturps  have  made  but  little  progress;  there  are, how- 
ever, certain  line  fal)rics  peculiar  to  Central  Africa,  of  which 
the  most  general  is  cotton  cloth,  produced  in  several  districts, 
of  a  very  beautiful  texture,  dyeil  blue  with  indigo,  and  receiv- 
ing from  the  processes  employed  a  very  brilliant  gloss.  Leather 
in  Houssa  is  dried  ami  riyed  in  the  same  rich  and  soft  style  as 
in  Morocco;  and  prol)ably,  in  both  ca.ses,  the  manufacture  is 
native.  Mats,  used  both  for  sitting  and  sleeping  on,  are  the 
staple  manufacture  in  many  parts  of  Western  Africa.  Gold 
and  silvtM"  ornaments  are  made  with  some  taste;  and  iron  is 
generally  fabricated,  though  with  a  varying  and  imperfect 
degree  of  skill. 

The  largest  branch  of  the  native  trade  of  Africa,  originates 
in  the  great  demand  for  salt,  and  the  longing  desire  which  is 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.         490 

MARITIME    ENTERPRISE. 

'   '  t 

felt  for  it  in  all  the  provinces  to  the  south  of  the  Great  Desert. 
This  commodity  is  chiefly  brought  from  the  seacoast ;  from 
large  pits  in  the  Western  Desert;  and  also  from  the  lakes  or 
ponds  of  Domboo,  in  the  country  of  Tibboo.  In  like  manner, 
from  the  west  are  sent  up  cowries  or  shells,  the  chief  currency 
of  the  interior  kingdoms,  and  goora  or  kolla  nuts,  a  favorite 
lu:5^ury,  which,  on  account  of  the  agreeable  taste  they  impart 
to  the  water  drank  from  them,  are  called  African  cotfee.  The 
returns  are  made  in  gold,  ivory,  fine  cloths,  and  too  often  in 
slaves. — The  trade  with  North  Africa,  across  the  desert,  con- 
sists in  foreign  commodities.  The  chief  imports  are  gaudy 
and  glittering  ornaments  ;  for  the  power  of  distinguishing  be- 
tween the  genuine  and  the  false,  in  finery,  does  not  seem  to 
exist  beyopd  the  Sahara.  Captain  Lyon  enumerates  nine 
kinds  of  beads,  silks,  and  cloths  of  bright  colors,  especially 
red,  copper  kettles,  long  swords,  powder,  and  ball.  Antimony 
to  blacken  the  eyes,  with  cast-off  clothes,  and  old  armor,  find 
also  a  ready  market.  The  returns  are  the  same  as  those  sent 
to  the  shores  of  the  Atlantic.  The  monetary  system  of  the 
negro  countries  is  mpst  imperfect ;  for  the  shell  currency,  of 
which  it  requires  several  thousand  pieces  to  make  up  a  pound 
sterling,  must  be  intolerably  tedious.  The  only  metallic  form 
appears  in  Loggun,  where  it  consists  of  rude  bars  of  iron.  In 
Bornou,  and  several  countries  on  the  coast,  cloths,  mats,  or 
some  other  article  in  general  demand,  is  made  the  common 
measure  of  value. 

Maritime  enterprise  is  scarcely  known.  Almost  all  the 
commerce  of  Africa  is  carried  on  by  land.  Caravans,  kafilas, 
or  coffles,  cover  all  the  routes,  and  connect  the  most  distant 
extremities  of  the  continent.  These  are  formed  by  a  union 
of  travellers,  an  arrangement  strictly  necessary  for  mutaal  aid 
amid  the  difficulties  and  perils  by  which  almost  every  track  is 
beset.  The  native  traders  do  not  employ  camels,  which  have 
been  introduced  by  a  foreign  race  from  Arabia  into  the  north- 
ern deserts,  for  which  they  are  perfectly  adapted.  The  wagon, 
and  indeed  every  species  of  draught,  is  nearly  unknown,^  and 
would  be  ill-suited  to  the  African  roads,  the  best  of  which  are 
narrow  paths  cut  through  thick  and  entangled  forests.  In  the 
hilly  and  central  districts,  either  the  back  of  asses,  or  the 
head  of  slaves  and  women,  serve  as  the  ordinary  vehicle. 

All  the  accommodations  of  life,  throughout  this  continent,  are 
simple,  and  limited  in  the  greatest  degree.  There  does  not, 
probably,  without  some  foreign  interposition,  exist  in  Africa, 
a  stone  house,  or  one  which  rises  two  stories  from  the  ground. 
The  materials  of  the  very  best  habitations  are  merely  stakes 
of  wood  plastered  with  earth,  built  in  a  conical  form  like  bee- 
hives, and  resembling  the  first  rude  shelter  which  man  framed 
against  the  elements.  Many  of  these  mansions  afford  little 
facility  for  standing  upright,  and,   indeed,  are  resorted  to 


500  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 


AFRICA. 


chiefly  for  sleep  and  shelter,  while  the  court  before  the  door, 
shaded  by  the  family  tree,  is  the  scene  of  social  intercourse, 
and  of  all  meetinfrs  for  the  purposes  of  business  and  j^ayety. 
Greater  efforts  indeed  are  made  to  form  a  commodious  state- 
roon),  or  pul^lic  liall,  called  tiie  i)alaver-house ;  yet  this,  too, 
consists  merely  of  a  large  apartment,  raised  on  posts  fixed  in 
the  Jiround,  and  roofed  with  sloping  planks,  which  leave  the 
interior  open  to  the  air  on  every  side.  The  houses  and  yards 
of  persons  in  an}'  degree  opulent,  are  enclosed  by  an  outer 
wall  or  hedge,  sometimes  pretty  high,  serving  the  purposes 
both  of  privacy  and  defence.  Even  the  palaces  of  the  gran- 
dees, and  of  the  greatest  monai  chs,  consist  of  merely  a  clus- 
ter of  these  hovels  or  cottages,  forming  a  little  village,  with 
large  open  spaces,  and  surrounded  by  a  common  wall.  The 
state-hail  of  the  sultan  of  the  Fellatas,  the  greatest  of  the  Af- 
rican princes,  is  an  apartment  to  which,  in  Captain  Clapper- 
ton's  opinion,  the  term  shed,  would  in  Europe  be  properly  ap- 
plied. Slender,  however,  as  is  the  acconuiiodation  afforded 
by  these  edifices,  they  are  liberally  adorned,  especially  in  tho 
larger  cities,  both  with  carving  and  painting. 

If  African  houses  be  of  mean  construction,  the  internal  ac- 
commodations are  equally  scanty.  Except  the  state-chairs 
or  thrones  of  the  monarchs,  ascended  only  on  very  solemn 
occasions,  there  is  not  throughout  native  Africa  a  scat  to  sit 
upon.  The  people  sit  on  the  ground  in  circles;  and  if  the 
chief  can  place  beneath  him  the  skin  of  a  lion  or  leopard,  he 
is  at  the  height  of  his  pomp.  For  a  table  there  is  at  best  a 
wooden  board,  whereon  is  neither  plate,  knife,  fork,  nor  spoon  ; 
the  fingers  being  supposed  fully  adequate  to  the  performance 
of  every  function,  if  it  be  ncccrfsary  to  separate  into  parts  a 
large  joint,  or  even  a  sheep  roasted  whole,  the  dagger  or 
sword  of  the  warrior  is  drawn  forth,  and  very  speedily  ac- 
complishes the  object. 

In  intdlccliial  cullivalioji  the  native  tribes  have  made  little 
progress.  Among  them  there  is  not  a  tincture  of  letters,  or 
of  writing  to  be  found — not  a  hieroglyphic  or  symbol  corres- 
ponding to  the  painted  stories  of  Mexico,  or  the  knotted  qui- 
pos  of  Peru. 

Yet  the  A  fricans  are  not  sunk  in  entire  mental  apathy.  In  their 
great  public  meetings  and  palavers,  trueeloquence  is  sometimes 
heard.  The  passion  for  poetry  is  universal.  As  soon  as  the 
evening  breeze  begins  to  blow,  the  song  resounds  throughout 
all  Africa, — it  cheers  the  despondency  of  the  wanderer  through 
the  desert; — it  enlivens  the  social  meeting — it  inspires  the 
dance, — and  even  the  lamentations  of  the  mourner  are  poured 
forth  in  measured  accents.  Their  poetry  does  not  consist  in 
studied  and  regular  pieces,  such  as,  aHer  previous  study,  are 
recited  in  our  schools  and  theatres;  they  are  extemporary 
and  spontaneous  effusions,  in  which  the  speaker  gives  utter- 
ance to  his  hopes  and  fears,  his  joys  and  sorrows. 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  501 

»»—       -    i»  I  .■■-...   .      ■  .         ,     I     I .  I — . ' -■     -■    ■■   — — ■  - ■»■■  ■'■■ — 

RELIGION. 

In  their  religion  the  negroes  are  left  to  the  dim  hght  of 
nature.  They  have  objects  of  worship  called  fetiches,  which 
seem  to  resemble  the  obi  of  the  West  Indies,  and  the  taboo  of 
the  South  Sea  Islands.  Charms  and  amulets  are  in  great  use 
as  a  defence  from  danger.  Mahometanism  has  been  intro- 
duced into  some  portions  of  the  continent,  and  where  it  pre- 
vails has  abolished  the  horrors  of  human  sacrifice, — but  in  all 
other  respects,  the  iatroduction  of  this  corrupt  system  has 
only  served  to  deepen  the  evils  under  which  Africa  has  suf- 
fered for  centuries.  But  in  many  parts  of  this  continent,  Mo- 
iQch  still  exercises  his  cruel  sway,  and  thousands  are  yearly 
sacrificed  on  his  sanguinary  altar.  On  a  single  occasion,  Mr. 
Bowdich  relates,  as  we  have  already  observed,  the  king  of 
Ashantee  sacrificed  over  the  grave  of  his  mother,  no  less  than 
iiOOO  victims.  What  must  be  the  state  of  a  people,  where 
such  spiritual  ignorance  reigns,  and  such  horrid  barbarities 
are  practised  as  a  part  of  religion  ? 

But  these  are  not  the  only  evils  which  press  upon  Africa. 
Violence  and  wrong  have  here  their  widest  field,  and  cause 
the  most  dreadful  calamities  to  this  part  of  the  human  race. 
Africa  has  been,  and  still  is,  the  store-house  of  slavery  for  no 
small  portion  of  the  globe.  Park  has  somewhere  expressed 
the  opinion,  that  one-third  of  the  population  of  Africa  are  held 
in  bondage  by  the  other  two-thirds,  and  yearly,  thousands  anct 
tens  of  thousands  of  these  ill-fated  beings  are  torn  from  home 
and  country,  to  toil  for  others,  and  to  suffer  all  the  privations 
of  a  life  of  bondage.  Some  have  estimated  the  number-of 
slaves  who  have  thus  been  torn  away,  since  the  origin  of  the 
trade,  at  nearly  20,000,000.  Certain  it  is,  that  most  nations  on 
the  globe,  and  among  them  are  those  who  are  called  Christian, 
and  who  affect  to  be  governed  by  the  principles  of  the  Bible, 
have  participated  in  this  unprincipled  traffic.  No  wonder 
that  the  Africans  indulge  such  deep-rooted  prejudices  against 
civilized  nations — no  wonder  that  "  Christianity  with  them,  is 
identified  with  perfidy  and  cruelty." 

When  will  justice  be  done  to  this  miserable  people?  The 
past  wTongs  of  Africa,  can,  indeed,  never  be  redressed.  The 
millions  who  have  been  torn  from  the  land  which  they  held 
dear — from  the  friends  whom  they  loved,  and  who,  through 
toil,  and  sweat,  and  stripes,  have  made  their  way  to  a  wel- 
come grave,  can  never  be  recalled,  and  restored  to  their  rights 
and  their  comforts.     That  day,  in  respect  to  them,  is  past. 

But  in  respect  to  the  present  inhabitants  of  Africa,  justice 
may  be  done.  But  when — yes,  %chen  shall  the  day  dawn  that 
shall  proclaim  to  her  millions — "your  warfare — your  bondage 
is  accomplished  ?" 

"While  on  the  distant  Hindoo  shore 
Messiah's  cross  is  reared, 
While  Pagan  votaries  bow  no  more 
With  idol  blood  besmeare4— 


502  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 


AFRICA. 


"  While  Palestine  aenin  lioth  henr 
The  Ropptl's  joyful  SdUiid, 
While  Islam's  crescents  disappear 
From  Calvary's  holy  ground— 

"  .Sny,  shall  not  A/ric.i  fated  land 
W'itti  news  of  prace  be  l>lest7 
Say,  shall  no!  Ethiopia's  land 
Enjoy  the  primiised  rest'?" 

We  are  happy  to  believe  that  such  a  bright  day— such  a 
golden  era,  is  reserved  by  Providence  for  this  long  oppressed 
people.     If  the  promises  of  infinite  mercy  are  to  be  fulfilled— 
if  the  heathen,  which  have  been  given  to  Jesus  as  his  inheri- 
tance, and  the  uttermost  parts  of  the  earth  as  his  possessions, 
are  ultimately  to  come  under  his  holy  sway,  then  th<^  day  of 
light,  and  peace,  and  joy  for  Africa,  will  arrive.     The  voice  of 
liberty  and  joy  will  be  heard  along  its  rivers  and  its  lakes — 
disenthralled,  and  enlightened  by  the  word  of  God,  Africa,  we 
believe,  in  its  habitations  of  cruelty  will  furnish  as   beautiful 
dwelling-places  of  rigliteousness  as  are  to  be  found  upon  the 
globe.     The  Bosjesman  will  one  day  comprehend  the  majesty 
of  redeeming  love,  and  the  proud  and  warlike  Ashantec;  be- 
come an  humble  disciple  of  Jesus.     The  waters  of  the  Niger 
will  yet  bear  upon  its  bosom  vessels  containing  the  heralds  of 
the  cross,  coming  to  publish  good  tidings  of  great  joy— liberty 
to  the  captive,  and  especially,  release  to  those  that  have  been 
bound  in  the  chains  of  Satan. 

Nor  are  these  glorious  things  written  respecting  Africa 
alone— other  portions  of  the  globe,  over  which  we  have  wan- 
dered, are  as  entirely  under  the  despotic  influence  of  Satan, 
as  the  sable  sons  of  Ham.  But  the  day  of  universal  libera- 
tion will  come.  The  prophecies  and  the  promises  of  revelation 
cannot  fail.  Tiiat  day  will  dawn,  when  the  last  column  erect- 
ed in  the  temple  of  apostacy  will  fall— the  long  series  of  sac- 
rifices and  idolatrous  offerings  will  terminate,  and  the  regen- 
erated world  will  shine  forth  in  all  the  moral  beauty  and  glory, 
as  when  God,  on  the  morning  of  the  creation,  pronounced  it 
good,  and  all  the  sons  of  God  shouted  for  joy. 

When  that  day  will  arrive,  has  not  transpired  from  the  coun- 
sels of  God.  Much,  anterior  to  it,  remains  to  be  done  by  the 
)eople  of  God  in  all  lands  where  he  has  recorded  his  name, 
.t  was  the  remark  of  a  distinguished  divine  at  a  late  meeting 
of  the  Board  of  Commissioners  for  Foreign  Mission.s,  that 
from  a  recent  examination  of  the  prophecies,  he  felt  justified 
in  placintr  the  commencement  of  the  Millennium  within  200 
years.  What  a  labor  is  then,  indeed,  before  the  friends  of 
Immanuel !  Let  our  readers  recall  those  portions  of  our  trav- 
els, which  exhitiit  the  laws,  the  customs,  the  superstitions,  «S:,c. 
which  in  different  lands  are  utterly  variant  from  the  gospel— 
which  must  be  abrogated  and  abolished  ere  the  simple  but  es- 
Rcntial  truths  of  Christianity  can  exercise  their  full  effect 
What  chains,  now  riveted,  must  be  broken !    What  influences, 


S 


UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER.  503 

SOCIAL    CONDITION. 

now  in  full  operation,  must  be  neutralized!  What  systems, 
which  have  in  the  lapse  of  years,  of  centuries,  become  inter- 
woven into  the  very  texture  and  framework  of  society — sys- 
tems as  hostile  to  Christianity  as  the  artifice  of  Satan  could 
render  them — must  be  dissolved  ! 

But  all  this  will  be  accomplished.  The  expectation  is  abroad 
that  the  era  of  "remedial  change" — "  a  season  of  moral  res- 
toration," is  approaching.  Not  only  is  the  church  "  looking 
out"  with  an  intense  eagerness  for  "that  blessed  hope,  the 
glorious  appearing  of  the  Great  God  ovir  Saviour" — but  even 
heathen  and  anti-christian  nations  are  anticipating  it.  A  dim 
reflection  of  the  Christian  hope  seems  to  be  cherishing  in  all 
lands,  and  by  the  wavering  votaries  of  every  creed — 

Both  heaven,  and  earth,  and  hell,  or  with  glad  zeal 

Or  blind  concurrence,  work  Grod's  will. 
The  day  that  shall  the  perfect  scheme  reveal, 

And  all  his  word  fulfil. 
Is  drawing  on  :  and  earth  is  ripening  fast 
As  for  the  sickle.    Soon  shall  sound  that  signal  blast. 

Let  the  people  of  God,  then — friends  to  truth,  liberty,  and 
joy — betake  themselves  to  the  accomplishment  of  the  glorious 
work  assigned  them.  God  has  indeed  pledged  himself  that 
4t  shall  be  accompUshed.  The  triumphs  of  Ihe  cross  will  be 
spread  abroad.  The  church  will  at  length  embrace  all  nations. 
Indeed,  "the  whole  earth  will  chant  the  praises  of  the  Re- 
deemer, and  the  song  of  salvation  will  echo  from  shore  to 
shore.  But  in  order  to  this,  there  must  be  more  fervent  prayers, 
more  abundant  labors,  more  enlarged  charities.  In  the  con- 
quest of  the  world  to  Christ,  the  church  must  become  a  well 
disciplined  armj',  and  every  member  of  it  must  know  his 
place  and  duty.  There  must  be  a  general,  united,  and  mighty 
onset  against  sin  and  Satan.  In  this  war.  Christians  must 
enlist  for  actual  service,  and  for  life." 

In  this  great  and  noble  enterprise— -the  rescue  of  a  race 
from  the  chains  of  a  grievous  captivity — the  restoration  of  a 
whole  world  to  peace,  liberty,  and  joy — ^^Christians  of  every 
land  and  every  name  should  cordially  combine.  Here,  there 
should  be  no  jealousy,  but  that  which  "provokes  unto  love 
and  good  works;" — no  rivalry,  but  that  which  seeks  to  make 
proselytes  to  Jesiis^.  Until  such  a  spirit  prevails  among  the 
children  of  God,  until  such  harmonious  action  characterizes 
their  movements,  when  shall  the  day  of  millennium  blessed- 
ness dawn  upon  our  world  ?  " 

Upon  the  Christians  of  our  own  land,  what  a  weight  of  re- 
sponsibility is  resting!  The  land  of  freedom,  science,  and 
religion  ! — shall  America,  be  wanting  in  efforts  to  diffuse 
abroad  these  blessings,  which  she  so  universally  enjoys,  and 
which  she  so  highly  prizes?  May  the  day  come,  when  her 
rulers,  themselves  consecrated  to  God,  shall  consecrate  their 
eflfbrts  to  the  diffusion  of  the  principles  of  rational  freedom: 


504  UNIVERSAL  TRAVELLER. 

AFRICA. 

—  when  her  wcaltli,  accumulating  in  her  treasury,  sliali  be 
poured  out  for  the  promotion  of  "  peace  and  good  will" 
among  all  nations ; — when  every  vessel  from  her  coast  shall 
carry  the  missionaries  of  the  cross  to  publish  the  glad  tidings 
of  salvation  on  pagan  shores ; — and,  finally,  when  Christians 
shall  feel,  and  pray,  and  act,  as  if  the  advancement  of  the 
Redeemer's  kingdom  was  their  best  and  almost  only  work. 
May  that  day  come;  and  when  it  shall  have  come,  how  dif- 
ferent a  story  will  the  traveller  tell,  when  he  shall  return,  as 
we  now  return  from  our  long  wanderings  to  our  own  land. 
"What  is  dark  and  dreary  in  our  pages  will  in  his  be  bright  and 
|)eautiful.  lie  will  have  the  pleasure  to  record  a  truth,  which 
we  have  not  yet  found : 


S^.^  ■  ,=,oO-' 


>«r  >A     *      END- 


LD 


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